2007 Ford Expedition

Defect. FORD IS RECALLING 57,199 MY 2006-2007 E-150, E-250, E-350, AND MY 2007 EXPEDITION AND LINCOLN NAVIGATOR VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 5.4L ENGINES. THE FUEL RAIL CROSS-OVER HOSE MAY CONTAIN WEAK AREAS. AS A RESULT, THE HOSE MAY CRACK, WHICH COULD CAUSE A FUEL ODOR AND/OR FUEL LEAK.

Risk. FUEL LEAKAGE IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE COULD RESULT IN A FIRE.

Remedy. DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLY. THE RECALL BEGAN ON MARCH 3, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.

Defect. FORD IS RECALLING 123,632 MY 2007-2008 EXPEDITION AND LINCOLN NAVIGATOR VEHICLES. THE DOOR HANDLE HOUSING EMBOSSMENT RETAINING THE BOTTOM OF THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE SPRING ON ALL SIDE DOORS MAY FRACTURE DURING NORMAL CUSTOMER USAGE. THIS CAN RESULT IN INSUFFICIENT SPRING FORCE TO RETURN THE HANDLE TO THE FULLY CLOSED POSITION. THE HANDLE MAY BE LOOSE CAUSING A RATTLE OR NOISE AND THE HANDLE MAY NOT RETURN TO THE FULLY CLOSED POSITION. THIS CONDITION MAY ALSO PROVIDE A DELAYED RESISTANCE WHEN ACTUATING THE HANDLE PRIOR TO OPENING THE DOOR.

Risk. IN THE EVENT OF A SIDE IMPACT CRASH, THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE MAY CAUSE THE DOOR LATCH TO OPEN INCREASING THE RISK OF INJURY TO A VEHICLE OCCUPANT.

Remedy. DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE INTERIOR HANDLE SPRING ON ALL SIDE DOORS. THE RECALL BEGAN ON MARCH 5, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2007 Ford Expedition. The contact stated that upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for servicing, it was discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy. The vehicle was a dealer sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 17,000, and at the time the mechanic was servicing the vehicle, it was discovered that the mileage was 224,000.

Symptom was low brake pedal or “soft brakes” due to the brake booster pushrod not being turned out to appropriate length requiring to adjust the brake booster pushrod length. In order to correct mechanic has to remove the master brake cylinder and turn out the pushrod 1/2 or 1/4 turn.

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Expedition. The contact stated while driving approximately 35 MPH, the vehicle stalled in the middle of the roadway. The contact was able to place the vehicle in park(P) and the contact was unable to restart the vehicle. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact had the vehicle towed to a local dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. The vehicle had been repaired; however, the fuel pump failed a few years later. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 204,000.

My front passenger door has to be pushed heavily to open UNKNOWN REASON WHY

MY EXPODITION HAS A BAD GAS SMELL AND SKIPS A LITTLE PLEASE HELP ME

Unknown about what causes the issue but was Told it was manufacturers fault not mine. Insurance adjuster came out as well and said that my full coverage won’t cover anything at this point and told me as well to go contact the manufacturers to see what the option are available

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Expedition Max. The contact was at a state inspection station and the vehicle was failed due to rust holes on the passenger’s side front subframe behind the front suspension, directly under a reinforcement plate. The contact stated that the entire reinforcement plate and the frame rail behind the plate had rusted through rendering the vehicle unsafe. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact took the vehicle to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed and the rusted frame section was replaced. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 238,000.

ALWAYS WHEN VEHICLE IS IN LOWER GEAR, WITH RPMS BETWEEN 1-2, THE VEHICLE WILL SUDDENLY BEGIN TO VIBRATE/SHAKE AND FEELS LIKE YOU'RE RIDING OFF THE ROAD ON AN INTERSTATE (LIKE THE SPEED RIDGES IN THE PULL-OFF LANE. IT IDLES GREAT, SEEMS TO CHANGE GEARS SMOOTHLY (AUTOMATIC). SOMETIMES THE VIBRATION IS MINIMAL BUT OTHER TIMES IT'S QUITE NOTICABLE, BUT USUALLY LASTS LESS THAN 15 SECONDS. IF THE RPMS ARE OVER 1.5 IT ONLY DOES IT LESS THAN 5 SECONDS. I WONDERED IF IT IS FAULTY MOTOR MOUNTS OR TRANSMISSION MOUNTS? I'VE HAD TIRES ROTATED, BOUGHT A NEW SET OF TIRES, SHOCKS ARE FINE. I'VE TRIED EVERYTHING.

I HAVE TO REPLACE SPARK PLUGS EVERY WEEK. THE ENGINE EITHER KEEPS MAKING THE PLUGS FOUL OUT, OR IT BURNS THE TIP RIGHT OFF THE ENGINE. I'M STARTING TO SEE FROM THE COMPLAINTS THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE. I DON'T FEEL SAFE DRIVING THE VEHICLE WITH MY 6 KIDS BECAUSE OF HOW BAD IT KEEPS MISSING AND TRYING TO DIE. I CHANGE PLUGS THEN DRIVES WELL FOR ABOUT A WEEK.

ENGINE STARTED MAKING NOISE. PULLED IT A PART AND FOUND THE COMMON 5.4 LITER PROBLEM. THE CAM LOBS WAS EATEN UP ROLLER HAD FROZEN UP AND EATEN CAM UP AND TAPET HAS WENT BAD ALSO. VECH WAS IN USE WHEN THIS STARTED.

I HAVE A 2007 FORD EXPEDITION WILL START UP IN THE MORNING AND BE FINE UNTIL IT WARMS UP THEN IT WILL STALL OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD OR AT STOP SIGHS OR LIGHTS THESE MOTORS ARE KNOW TO HAVE PROBLEMS FROM FACTORY IT IS MY ONLY CAR I HAVE TO GO TO COLLEGE I NEED HELP RESOLVING THIS ISSUE

CAR HAS ALWAYS BUCKED AND TRUCK AND TRIED TO CATCH UP TO IT SELF. NOW I HAVE A TICKING SOUND COMING FROM UNDER MY HOOD. TICKING STAYS THE SAME RUNNING LOW RPM OR AT A HIGHER RPM.

FIRST INCIDENT OCCURRED WHEN VEHICLE WAS TRAVELING 45 MPH. BRAKES WERE APPLIED TO SLOW DOWN BEFORE A CURVE. AT THE POINT THE FRONT WHEELS LOCKED UP AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO ROCK BACK AND FORTH AND SWERVE ON THE ROADWAY. TO PREVENT A ROLLOVER THE VEHICLE WAS STEERED OFF THE ROAD WHEN IT JUMPED AN EMBANKMENT AND PLOWED THROUGH 25 FEET MUD AND BRUSH BEFORE COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE BRAKES WERE COMPLETELY INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS SHUT OFF AND LEFT UNTIL IT COULD BE TOWED OUT. AFTER A FEW HOURS THE CALIPERS RELEASED. THE SECOND INCIDENT OCCURRED WHEN VEHICLE WAS STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN. WHEN ACCELERATED WAS PRESSED THE FRONT WHEELS WERE LOCKED UP AND THE BACK WHEELS WERE SPINNING. VEHICLE WAS PUT IN PARK, SHUT OFF, RESTARTED AFTER A FEW MINUTES AND CALIPERS WERE STILL LOCKED UP. VEHICLE WAS TOWED HOME AND CALIPERS RELEASED AFTER A FEW HOURS. CAR HAD ONLY BEEN RUNNING FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES WHEN THIS HAPPENED. AFTER DIAGNOSIS IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE BRACKETS THAT HOLD THE BRAKE LINES ON THE FRONT FAILED AND WHEEL ROTATION WERE THROUGH THE LINES WHICH CAUSED THE BRAKE LINES TO INTERMITTENTLY COLLAPSE. ALL BRAKE LINES, CALIPERS, TIE RODS, SHOCK/STRUTS, BRAKES, ROTORS, UPPER CONTROL ARMS AND LOWER BALL JOINTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED ON BOTH FRONT AND REAR. VEHICLE HAD APPROXIMATELY 180,000 MILES WHEN BOTH INCIDENTS OCCURRED 3 MONTHS APART.

SEAT ROCKS BACK AND FORTH (FRONT AND BACK) WHEN ACCELERATING AND STOPPING. ADJUSTING SEAT DOES NOT HELP, ROCKS ON THE TRACK UP AND DOWN. CAN ROCK SEAT WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY ALSO.

DELEVOPED A TICKING NOISE TIMING CHAINS WERE REPLACED ALL ROCKERS AND LIFTERS ARE IN GOOD SHAPE THE TRUCK LOOSES POWER IT STARTS UP ROUGH AT ABOUT 1800 RPM YOU CAN HEAR THE TICKING LOUD PAST 2000 RPM THE TICKING GOES AWAY I HAVE RECENTLY BEEN NOTIFIED THAT THESE ENGINES HAVE CAM PHASER PROBLEMS IT RECENTLY DEVELOPED A P0022 CODE WHICH IS INT CAM POSITION TIMING OVER RET BANK 2 I HAVE REPLACED THE VVT SELONOIDS AND STILL HAS THE SAME PROBLEM VEHICLE LOST POWER ON HIGHWAY SPEED DROPPED FROM 70 AND WOULD NOT GO PAST 30 VERY UNSAFE INCEDENT ON THE INTERSTATE

WHEN YOU DRIVE THE VEHICLE AND COME TO A STOP, IE: (INTERSECTION) THE VEHICLE WILL GO INTO NEUTRAL WHILE IT'S IN DRIVE AND UPON PRESSING THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, IT ENTERS A SAFETY TYPE MODE WITH NO INDICATION AND WILL REMAIN IN GEAR ZERO FOR APPROXIMATELY 1-2 SECONDS AND THEN AS IT STARTS MOVING, IT DOES SO WITH VERY LITTLE POWER LEAVING THE VEHICLE IN DANGER OF GETTING STRUCK BY ANOTHER VEHICLE FROM CROSS TRAFFIC. AT THIS TIME, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS CAUSING THIS ISSUE BUT IT SEEMS TO BE COMMON VIA THE INTERNET COMPLAINTS ON THE 6R80 TRANSMISSIONS ON FORD VEHICLES. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME 4 TIMES WHILE TRYING TO CROSS MULTI LANE HIGHWAYS BUT THE MOST RECENTLY CAME VERY CLOSE TO WHAT COULD HAVE ENDED INTO A MULTIPLE FATAL ACCIDENT WITH A SEMI TRUCK WHO WAS BARELY ABLE TO STOP IN TIME BEFORE I WAS ABLE TO CROSS A 3 LANE HIGHWAY. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO HAVE THE VEHICLE GO BACK TO NORMAL BY SIMPLY SHUTTING OFF THE VEHICLE AND RESTARTING IT. WHAT MAKES THIS REALLY DANGEROUS, IS THE DRIVER SUCH AS ME BEING UNAWARE THAT MY VEHICLE IS IN A SAFETY RESTRICTED POWER OUTPUT WHEN THIS HAPPENS. NO WARNING UNTIL YOU COMMIT INTO A DEADLY SITUATION. PEOPLE REPORT THIS ISSUE ON THE INTERNET AS THE VEHICLE GOING INTO NEUTRAL BY ITSELF WHEN COMING TO A STOP. WHEN THEY TRY TO RESUME DRIVING THE VEHICLE RPMS WILL INCREASE AND THE VEHICLE MIGHT OR MIGHT NOT POP INTO GEAR SOFTLY OR FORCEFULLY. SOMETIMES WITH FULL ACCELERATION AUTHORITY AND SOMETIMES WITH A MAX ATTAINABLE SPEED OF 5 MPH OR LESS DEPENDIN

I REPLACED THE AIR COMPRESSOR AND IT WAS WORKING FINE BUT THEN STARTED BLOWING HOT AIR, THE MECHANIC CHECKED ALL THE LINES AND FOUND THAT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE WAS NOT SECURED CORRECTLY AND HAD RUBBED A HOLE IN THE HIGH SIDE HOSE AND WAS LEAKING REFRIGERANT OIL. NOW MY OPTIONS ARE EITHER DOING AWAY WITH THE BACK AIR CONDITIONER OR REPLACING THE HOSE WHICH IS $600.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 FORD EXPEDITION. WHILE REVERSING OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY, THE BRAKES AND BOTH FRONT WHEELS SEIZED AND WOULD NOT TURN. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE REMAINED STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET. THE CONTACT SHUT OFF THE ENGINE AND REMOVED THE KEYS FROM THE IGNITION. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND THE GEAR WAS PLACED IN NEUTRAL. THE CONTACT'S HUSBAND HAD TO PULL THE VEHICLE BACK INTO THE DRIVEWAY VIA A ROPE. THE CONTACT SPRAYED THE WHEELS WITH A TYPE OF SEIZURE UNLOCK SPRAY AND THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE DRIVEN A DAY LATER. IN ADDITION, THE ABS WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BRAKE CALIPERS SEIZED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER AND DEALER WERE NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 151,000.

MY TIRES WONT STAY INFLATED, THE AIR KEEPS COMING OUT DAILY, THERE IS NO LEAKS OR ANYTHING , ALSO I ALMOST CAUSED A ACCIDENT , I HIT A CURB

AS SOON AS YOU START THE VEHICLE THE BATTERY SYMBOL DISPLAYS ON THE DASH, IT GOES ON AND OFF CHIMING REPEATEDLY, THEN SWITCHES FROM BATTERY SYMBOL TO WRENCH SYMBOL AND THEN MY ENTIRE GAUGE CLUSTER STARTS. EVERY LIGHT GOES ON AND OFF REPEATEDLY, THE RPM GAUGE AND MPH DROPS TO ZERO AND THE ENGINE CLUNKS REALLY LOUD (WHILE DRIVING), THE AC OR HEAT WILL COMPLETELY TURN OFF AND ON, THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER AND DIM ON AND OFF AT NIGHT WHILE DRIVING, BAD VIBRATION, LOUD GROWL TYPE IDLE SOUND, THE RADIO SHUTS OFF, WHEN YOU TURN THE HEATER ON IT REPEATEDLY CLUNKS IN THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE UNTIL YOU TURN AC ON AGAIN OR SHUT IT OFF, REAR AIR SUSPENSION LIGHT GOES ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING. THIS ALL HAPPENS WHENEVER IT WANTS. I SHUT OFF THE CAR AND RESTART AND THE PROBLEM WILL STAY GONE AND DRIVE NORMAL UNTIL IT COOLS AGAIN AND THEN RESTART THE VEHICLE. THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN TESTED AT 3 SHOPS AND TURNED AWAY BY ALL BECAUSE THEY DON'T KNOW WHERE TO START AS THEY ARE SCANNING THE VEHICLE AND 17 CODES CAME UP. THEY STARTED TESTING EACH ITEM WITH A CODE AND ALL CAME BACK AS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY. SO I BELIEVE IT'S EITHER ELECTRICAL OR ONE OF THE BRAINS/COMPUTERS OF THE VEHICLE?. IT IS BECOMING A SAFETY CONCERN AND I NEED HELP.