2008 Ford Focus

Defect. K2 MOTOR IS RECALLING 1,921 AFTERMARKET HEADLAMPS OF VARIOUS MODELS SOLD FOR USE ON THE ABOVE LISTED VEHICLES. THESE HEADLAMPS ARE MISSING THE AMBER SIDE REFLEX REFLECTOR WHICH FAILS TO CONFORM WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, "LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT."

Risk. WITHOUT THE AMBER SIDE REFLEX REFLECTORS, THE LIGHTING VISIBILITY MAY BE AFFECTED, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH.

Remedy. K2 MOTOR WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND OFFER A FULL REFUND. THE RECALL BEGAN ON DECEMEBER 17, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT K2 MOTOR AT 1-909-839-2992.

Defect. CERTAIN VEHICLES FAIL TO CONFORM TO THE REQUIREMENTS SPECIFIED IN FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 208, 'OCCUPANT CRASH PROTECTION.' THE DRIVER AIR BAG MODULE MAY NOT HAVE BEEN PROPERLY ASSEMBLED.

Risk. THIS CONDITION MAY PREVENT THE DRIVER AIR BAG FROM PROPERLY DEPLOYING AND REDUCE OCCUPANT PROTECTION IN THE EVENT OF A CRASH.

Remedy. DEALERS WILL REPLACE YOUR DRIVER AIR BAG MODULE FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 20, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.

On october 14, 2008, odi opened pe08-060 to investigate allegations of cracked and leaking snap-in tire valves in model year (my) 2007 vehicles manufactured by FORD motor company.the valves were supplied to FORD by topseal auto-parts, a subsidiary of the shanghai baolong automotive corporation in china.valves made by topseal for aftermarket sale were the subject of two recent safety recalls by tech international (08t-018) and dill air controls (08t-028), the latter of which was investigated by odi in pe08-036 and ea08-022.the defect conditions addressed by the aftermarket tire valve recalls …

Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with wired keyless entry keypad systems and accessory wireless keyless entry keypad systems may or may not come with a wallet card containing the master code. Unlike the integrated wired keypad, the accessory wireless keypad master code cannot be retrieved from the vehicle using a diagnostic scan tool or from the label …

FORD: IF THERE IS AN INTERMITTENT LACK OF POWER, SURGE, OR HESITATION WHILE DRIVING THE BRAKES WILL OVERRIDE ACCELERATION. *RM

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The brakes went to the floor and the whole car locked up. When I pressed the brakes to slow down it felt like something on the brakes just fell apart. I was in a car accident because of this I hit another car no no

Starter has always been difficult but now key stuck in ignition and won't start either

I purchased a 2008 Ford Focus from my father (now deceased). The airbag warning light has been on. When I had the OBD read, it came back with code # B2294 indicating a fault in a control module. My research makes me believe this vehicle should be included in NHTSA# 07V541000 (Ford # 07C19); however, both NHTSA and Ford say it isn't. I would like to find out why this particular vehicle was excluded and is there something I can do at this point to have it included.

The contact owns a 2008 Ford Focus. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle overheated. The coolant temperature warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with a coolant leak and a corroded subframe. The contact was informed that the subframe was significantly thin due to corrosion and that the vehicle was unsafe to drive. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 159,625. The VIN was unavailable.

Steering began to wobble and vehicle pulling hard to the right. Took car to Tires Plus for alignment and inspection. Technician advised the drivers side front tire has advanced tread separation and the front passenger side tire is beginning to separate and is cupping. My daughter drives this car. 205/50R/16 87H, passenger tire is dot [XXX], drivers side is [XXX] . Tires rated for 65k, they only have 34k miles of wear on them. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The trunk when pulled open will drop down. I pulled my trunk door all they way up went to get something inside the trunk it came down and hit me on the head. This has happened before I was able to catch it before it hit me. This time it hit me on the top of the head hard and my left hand when I tried to catch it. It comes down fast and forcefully. Something is wrong and seriously injure someone. I had a cut on my hand and couldn’t see my head for laceration. But I was afraid I could have been knocked out or had a concussion. Please look into this.

Ignition cylinder fails, leaving drivers stranded. Ford Focus online forums are plastered with numerous complaints about the focus ignition lock cylinder failure, and there are youtube videos showing how to repair it with tape or rigging a bypass push button ignition switch, but FORD should be fixing these issues so people are not stranded. Issue does not happen when driving, and only happens when key is off, and attempting to crank the car. Several people have complained about 500 dollar repairs that only last a few months before issue returns, and ford is very aware, but there are no recalls for the defect. I suppose a car that wont start is not considered dangerous, in itself, but the "hacks and fixes" for the issue can potentially be, and I think this deserves extreme scrutiny, as it affects several ford year models. drivers can suddenly be stranded miles from home and stuck with expensive repair costs that can render them without any transportation at all with no means of resolution.

Both Front Door latches have failed and will not open from the outside

Airbag light came on. The vehicle has 123,000 on it. It just recently came on the dash while driving. I see there is no recall for airbag light indicator.

THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR HANDLE NO LONGER WORKS FROM THE OUTSIDE. IT FEELS LIKE THE DOOR HANDLE ISN'T LATCHING ON TO THE MECHANISM INSIDE THE DOOR TO OPEN IT. I CAN OPEN MY DOOR FROM THE INSIDE THOUGH. I HAVE FOUND ONLINE THAT IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND AM CONFUSED TO WHY NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED OUT FOR THE FAULTY DOOR HANDLE BRACKETS.

THE GAS PEDAL GOES WITH GAS AND DECELERATES ON ITS OWN. BRAKE BOOSTER DOES NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY. THE MOTOR SHAKES AND LOOSES HORSEPOWER.

MY IGNITION SWITCH IS GETTING STUCK AND IT IS NOT ALLOWING ME TO TURN ON THE CAR. IT IS HARD TO TURN ON MY VEHICLE. THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER IS MARKING ON MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, IT ISN'T ALLOWING MY VEHICLES MOTOR TO VENT OUT.

ENTERED VEHICLE AS USUAL CLOSED DOOR AND BEGAN DRIVING (VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION). WHILE IN OPERATION DRIVING DOWN A CITY STREET THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR SWUNG OPEN. I ATTEMPTED TO CLOSE DOOR IMMEDIATELY BUT DOOR WOULD NOT CLOSE. IT BOUNCED OPEN AT EVERY ATTEMPT. I PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WHERE AFTER MANY ATTEMPTS I WAS ABLE TO CLOSE THE DOOR. I ATTEMPTED TO OPEN DOOR TO GET INTO THE VEHICLE THE DOOR LATCH PULLED BUT THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN LATCH REMAINED IN PULLED POSITION AND DOOR UNABLE TO BE OPENED AT ALL. THIS MALFUNCTION APPEARS TO BE A BROKEN DOOR LATCH WHICH WAS RECALLED FOR VEHICLES (NOT INCLUDING MINE) NHTSA RECALL NUMBER 17V652000. HOWEVER FORD STATED MY VIN WAS NOT COVERED UNDER RECALL. I AM CURRENTLY AWAITING A ESTIMATE FOR REPAIR AS IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE IN THIS CONDITION.

IF YOU HIT YOUR BRAKES AND THE ABS ACTIVATES MOMENTARILY BECAUSE YOU HIT A BUMP WHILE BRAKING OR JUST BECAUSE YOU HIT THE PEDAL A BIT TOO HARD, A LOSS OF BRAKES OCCURS. THE VALVE INSIDE THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT RESPONSIBLE FOR ACTIVATION OF THE ABS FAILS TO CLOSE COMPLETELY CAUSING FLUID BYPASS AND NO BRAKE PRESSURE RESULTING IN THE PEDAL FALLING TO THE FLOOR. AFTER SOME TIME, THE PEDAL RETURNS TO NORMAL FUNCTION AND THE HCU VALVE SEEMINGLY SEALS BE IT THE SAME DRIVE, OR A COUPLE DRIVES . THIS OCCURS AT RANDOM, ONLY WHEN THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF BRAKE PRESSURE AND ROUGH ROAD CONDITIONS COMBINE FOR THE ABS TO ACTIVATE. HOWEVER, THE BREAKS DO NOT RETURN IMMEDIATELY, SO YOU ARE FORCED TO DRIVE WITH VIRTUALLY NO BRAKES TILL IT FINALLY RESOLVES ON ITS OWN. THIS HAS HAPPENED IN STORMS, WHERE I HAD TO STOP HARD DUE TO DEBRIS IN THE ROAD. THIS IS ESPECIALLY PROBLEMATIC WHEN EXITING A HIGHWAY AND THE EXIT RAMP IS MILLED, SO WHEN YOU ARE BREAKING AND HIT THE GROOVED SECTION THE BRAKES DISAPPEAR. THIS ALSO OCCURS IF YOU HIT A ROUGH PATCH OF ROAD OR POTHOLE WHILE BREAKING. THIS IS INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS, WITH THE ROOT CAUSE BEING A DEFECTIVE VALVE DESIGN IN THE HCU AND IS A COMMON ISSUE ACROSS THE FORD LINEUP. THE ISSUE IS THE PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT, HARD TO DIAGNOSE, AND ALWAYS MISDIAGNOSED AS AIR IN THE SYSTEM. THE ROOT CAUSE IS A FAULTY HCU CAUSING A VALVE TO FAIL TO SEAT PROPERLY AND ALLOW PRESSURE BLOWBY. THIS IS GOING TO LEAD TO AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE IT IS NOT PREDICTABLE, AND IT DOES

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD MY THROTTLE CONTROL/TRANSMISSION LIGHT JUST POPS ON AN I LOSE A GREAT AMOUNT OF POWER AND ACCELERATION. I'VE OWNED THE CAR FOR ABOUT A MONTH NOW AN HAD THE SENSOR ON THE THROTTLE BODY WHICH SEEMED TO HELP FOR ABOUT 2 DAYS THEN THE LIGHT POPPED BACK ON. IT DOES THIS A LOT WILL DRIVE FINE FOR ABOUT 25-30 MINUS AT ABOUT 50-55 MPH THE LIGHT POPS ON WITH ABOUT 30MPH WORTH OF POWER.I PULL OVER TURN THE CAR OFF AND ON IT TURNS THE LIGHT OUT AN ALL POWER IS RESTORED. I'VE LOOKED ONLINE AND EVERYONE SEEMS TO POINT TO THE THROTTLE BODY GOING BAD. THE CAR IS IN PERFECT SHAPE AND HAS A FRESH ALL AROUND TUNE UP.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE BRAKE PEDAL FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER PORCARO FORD (6001 WASHINGTON AVE, RACINE, WI 53406 (262) 886-5200) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED AND DETERMINED THAT THE ABS FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 127,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. *TR

CONSTITUENT WRITES IN REGARDS TO SWITCH ASY IGNITION FAILURE ON 2008 FORD FOCUS. *LD THE CONSUMER REQUESTED TO BE REIMBURSED FOR THE COST OF THE REPAIRS FOR THE IGNITION ASSEMBLY. *JS

GOING THROUGH REAR TIRES. CAUSING IT TO ACT LIKE REAR WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLE ON WET PAVEMENT. HAD AN ALIGNMENT DINE ABOUT 1 MONTH AGO AND HAD GOOD TIRES ON IT, THEY ARE NOW BALD. ALSO BACK END SLIDES WHEN HITTING EVEN SMALL BUMPS. FIRST TIME WAS ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO, GOT IT ALIGNED AND NEW TIRES WAS FINE TILE ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO. GOT DECENT TIRES AND AN ALIGNMENT ITS ALREADY DOING ITVAGAIN.

2008 FORD FOCUS. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION. *LD THE CONSUMER NO LONGER OWNS THE VEHICLE. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT EXPERIENCED DIFFICULTY INSERTING THE KEY INTO THE IGNITION IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE. THE CYLINDER IN THE IGNITION WAS REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED A THIRD TIME. THE IGNITION WAS REPAIRED BY AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO INSTALLED A PIECE OF CARDBOARD IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 104,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY FAILED TO TURN IN THE IGNITION SWITCH. INITIALLY, THE KEY HAD TO BE PUSHED DOWN FOR IT TO TURN AND START THE VEHICLE. CURRENTLY, THE CONTACT HAD TO UNLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL AND WIGGLE IT UNTIL THE KEY TURNED AND STARTED THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO BE DIAGNOSED, BUT NO FAILURE CODE WAS FOUND. THE CONTACT CALLED FIRST FORD (LOCATED AT 292 WILLIAM S CANNING BLVD, FALL RIVER, MA 02721, (508) 730-1000) AND WAS INFORMED TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER AND WAS NOT REPAIRED DUE TO THE DIAGNOSTIC AND REPAIR FEES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 167,845.

WHEN I PUT KEY IN IGNITION MOST TIMES IT DOESNT CATCH AND CAR DOESNT TURN ON. I HAVE TO PUSH HARDER TO CRANK CAR ON OR TAKE KEY OUT SEVERAL TIMES AND KEEP TRYING UNTIL IT CATCHES. SOMETIMES WHEN I PULL KEY OUT PART OF IGNITION SWITCH PULLS OUT A LITTLE AND CAR VEGINS TO CHIME UNTIL I PUSH IGNITION SWITCH BACK IN. I KNOW THERE WAS A SIMILAR RECALL UNTIL THE 2005 MODEL, THIS ISSUE WAS NEVER FIXES FROM ALL THE RESEARCH IVE DONE ON THIS ISSUE

MY SON REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE AT ABOUT 35 MPH AIR BAGS DIDN'T DEPLOY OTHER VEHICLE WAS STOPPED

WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE WILL NOT STOP. ON HIGHWAY AND REGULAR STREETS. BRAKE PEDALS APPLIED BUT ARE PUSHED TO THE FLOOR. TO STOP I PUMP BRAKES AND EVENTUALLY THEY COME BACK. REPORTED PROBLEM TO DEALER BUT WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. HAVE REPLACED MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKES IN THE LAST YEAR BUT PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS. ALMOST HAD ACCIDENT YESTERDAY AND AM TERRIFIED OF DRIVING CAR. DON'T REMEMBER ANY RECALLS BUT HAVE BEEN READING OTHER PEOPLE'S COMMENTS ON THIS SAME PROBLEM. WHAT IS THE FIX FOR THIS!!! NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW!!! THIS CAR STILL HAS LOW MILEAGE I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF THE VEHICLE BUT I HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS BUT DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO DO BECAUSE I ALWAYS TOOK CAR TO DEALER FOR SERVICE AND THEY KEPT SAYING NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR. I HAVE ALL OF MY SERVICE RECORDS AND PAPERS BUT SOLD THE CAR TO MY DAUGHTER [XXX] LAST YEAR AND SHE KEEPS HAVING SAME ISSUES. I HAVE TOLD HER TO GET RID OF THE CAR BECAUSE IT IS NOT SAFE. I DROVE CAR FOR 10 YEARS WITH THIS PROBLEM AND WAS LUCKY NOT TO HAVE AN ACCIDENT BUT DID HAVE SOME CLOSE CALLS. AT THIS POINT I WANT TO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM IS AND HOW TO FIX IT BECAUSE SHE IS A SINGLE MOTHER WITH NO MONEY TO BE BUYING CARS. I SAW A COMPLAINT THAT IT COULD BE THE ABS PUMP BUT THE 2008 WAS A ONE YEAR DESIGN AND CAN'T BE PURCHASED ANYMORE, IF THIS IS THE CASE THEN WE ARE SCREWED. PLEASE ADVISE WHAT THE CORRECT FIX IS IF YOU CAN.[XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).' *PM

ES UNA EXCELENTE HERRAMIENTA DONDE SE PUEDE SACAR INFORMACION

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED ON A SLIGHT INCLINE, IT ERRONEOUSLY ROLLED FORWARD AND MADE CONTACT WITH A PARKED VEHICLE. THERE WAS NO PHYSICAL DAMAGE TO EITHER OF THE VEHICLES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. TRI STAR MOTORS (151 WALNUT ST, KITTANNING, PA) AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT THE FAILURE PREVIOUSLY OCCURRED IN 2015 AND THE SHIFT CABLE WAS ADJUSTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY WHEN THE CAR REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE.

MY VEHICLE WAS IN A HEAD ON COLLISION IN WHICH THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY ON THE DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE, WHICH IN TURN CAUSED SIGNIFICANT INJURY TO BOTH PARTIES OCCUPYING THE VEHICLE AT THE TIME OF THE ACCIDENT.

BBOUGHT THE CAR FROM PRIVATE PARTY AND BROUGHT IT TO A SHOP TO BE LOOKED OVER THE BAD A MANCANIC TOOL SCAN THE CAR PASSENGER AIR BAGS ARE NOT RESPONDING TO THE COMPUTER DON'T KNOW HOW MANY OTHER CARS HAVE THIS ISSUE BUT ITS NOT EVEN PULLING A AIRBAG INDICATOR LIGHT ALSO IT FAILED A TEST THE MANCANIC RAN IT SAID PASSENGER AIR BAG NOT RESPONDING AND IN THE EVENT OF A CAR ACCIDENT ALL AIR BAGS MAY NOT GO OFF THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN AND ALSO FOR THE SAFETY OF MY PASSENGERS AND MY SELF. AIR BAG LIGHT STILL COME ON WHEN THE CAR RUNS A EQUIPMENT CHECK. AND GOES AWAY AFTER THE CHECK IS DONE.

MY FORD FOCUS ONLY HAS 61,000 MILES AND TRANSMISSION IS JUMPING HAVING TROUBLE SHIFTING AND GOING IN REVERSE SMELLS LIKE SOMETHING BURNING. FORD NEEDS TO DO A RECALL NUMEROUS PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUES I WILL BE CALLING FORD THIS IS RIDICULOUS I HAVE TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF CANCER AND IN THE HOSPITAL AND DONT HAVE A INCOME AND NOW I DONT NO WHAT I SHOULD DO FORD NEEDS TO FIX IT

CAR TRIES TO DRIVE ITSELF WHEN MY FOOT IS ON THE BRAKE ( STATIONARY) & THE MALFUNCTION ALMOST CAUSED A ACCIDENT IN THE CITY.LIGHTS HAVE MALFUNCTIONED SINCE PURCHASE. NO BACKSEAT LIGHTS WORKING.CAR ISLES RANDOMLY AND WILL NOT STOP UNTIL STITCH TO NEUTRAL AND THEN IT GIVES ME CONTROL TO DRIVE AGAIN.PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS ISSUE

CAR STARTED REVEING HARD AND THEN ACTING LIKE GEARS WERE SLIPPING AND NEXT DAY REVERSE IS OUT OF CAR AND CAN NOT DRIVE IT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 66 MPH, THE REAR WINDOW AND WINDSHIELD GLASS SHATTERED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 236,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS LOW SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING, BUT A FAILURE CODE COULD NOT BE LOCATED. IN THE PROCESS, THE MECHANIC DISCOVERED THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS SEVERELY CORRODED AND DEEMED THE VEHICLE UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND PROVIDED THE CONTACT WITH CASE NUMBER: 15332352. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT ALSO SPOKE WITH AN UNKNOWN DEALER WHO STATED THAT THEY COULD NOT ASSIST WITH REPAIRING THE SUBFRAME. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000.

"TAKATA RECALL" THE PASSENGER SEAT IS NOT REGISTERING THAT THERE'S SOMEONE SITTING THERE WHO 5'5" AND WEIGHS ALMOST 135 POUNDS AND IS WEARING HIS SEATBELT. SO THE AIRBAG LIGHT ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE CENTER CONSOLE COMES ON AND SAYS "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" AND THE YELLOW AIRBAG LIGHT STAYS LIT UP ON THE DRIVERS DASHBOARD UNTIL THE CAR IS SHUT OFF, ALL WITH SOMEONE WHO'S BIG ENOUGH FOR THE AIRBAG SENSOR TO KNOW HE'S SITTING THERE. ALL VEHICLES HE SITS IN THAT HAVE SENSORS FOR AIRBAGS FOR THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT ALWAYS READ THAT HE'S SITTING THERE, SO I KNOW HE'S BIG ENOUGH TO SET THE SENSOR OFF AND FOR IT YO KNOW HE'S SITTING THERE AND TO ACTIVATE THE PASSENGER AIRBAG. PICTURES ARE OF THE YELLOW AIRBAG LIGHT ON THE DRIVERS, THE CENTER CONSOLE "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF", AND A FEW SHOWING WHERE HE'S SITTING IN THE SEAT AND BOTH THE YELLOW LIGHTS ARE STILL ON. THE YELLOW LIGHTS ARE ONLY ON WHEN THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING, IN MOTION, ON HIGHWAY, STOPPED, ON CITY STREETS, TURNING, AND GOING FORWARD. (ITSL'S ALRIGHT TO SHARE ALL PICTURES PUBLICLY, I KNEW THEY'D BE SHARED WITH THE PUBLIC BEFORE TAKING THEM.)

"TAKATA RECALL" THE DRIVERS SEAT BELT STAYS PUSHED IN WHEN YOU PUSH THE RED RELEASE BUTTON TO TAKE OFF YOUR SEATBELT. UNLIKE THE FRONT PASSENGER SEATBELT AND THE THREE BACK SEATBELTS THAT ALL FOUR COMPLETELY RELEASE WHEN YOU UNDO YOUR SEATBELT, NONE OF THEM STAY PRESSED IN THEY ALL FULLY RELEASE. THE 1ST PICTURE IS THE FRONT PASSENGER SEATBELT RELEASE, 2ND PICTURE IS THE BACK PASSENGER & BACK MIDDLE SEATBELT RELEASES, 3RD PICTURE IS THE BACK DRIVERS SEATBELT SEATBELT RELEASE, & THE 4TH & 5TH PICTURES ARE THE FRONT SEATBELT RELEASE FROM TWO DIFFERENT ANGLES SHOWING HOW IT'S STILL PUSHED IN & NOT FULLY RELEASED EVEN THOUGH THE SEATBELT IS UNBUCKLED SO THE BUTTON SHOULD BE FULLY RELEASED.

THE INGNIITION SWITCH WENT OUT FOR A SECOND TIME. I REPLACED IT ONCE BUT DECIDED TO PUT A START BUTTON ON MY CAR. I CAN'T AFFORD TO PAY FOR AN ANOTHER INGNIITION SWITCH. THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RECALL ON IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START THE VEHICLE, IT FAILED TO START. THE DEALER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE MANUFACTURER STATED THAT THEY WOULD MAKE A NOTE OF THE FAILURE, BUT NOTHING COULD BE DONE AT THIS TIME. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 82,000.

ABS PUMP IS MALFUNCTIONING. CAR HAS "SOFT PEDAL" THAT IS NOT RESOLVED BY REPLACEMENT OF MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE BOOSTER OR THOROUGH BLEEDING OF THE BRAKES (INCLUDING ELECTRONIC BLEEDING OF THE ABS). IN ADDITION, AFTER ABOUT 5-10 MINUTES OF DRIVING, THE BRAKES START TO CLAMP DOWN ON THE ROTORS WITHOUT DRIVER INPUT. THE FRICTION IS ESPECIALLY BAD WHEN DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS (E.G., ON A HIGHWAY), TO THE POINT WHERE THE CAR BEGINS TO VIBRATE FROM THE FRICTION. BUT IT WILL ALSO SHOWS SIGNS OF BRAKE DRAG EVEN AT LOWER SPEEDS (E.G., 30-50 MPH). NO ABS LIGHTS/WARNINGS/CODES CAME ON, BUT MECHANIC (CHRISTIAN BROTHERS AUTOMOTIVE, LOCATED IN HOUSTON TX AREA) CONFIRMED THROUGH MANUAL TESTING THAT ABS PUMP WAS MALFUNCTIONING. AS IT TURNS OUT, I AM TOLD THE ABS PUMP FOR THE 2008 MODEL WAS A ONE-YEAR DESIGN AND WAS DISCONTINUED AND CANNOT BE PURCHASED ANYWHERE NOW. THE PROBLEMS ALL STARTED ABOUT ONE YEAR AGO.

THE BREAK MASTER CYLINDER HAS BEEN LEAKING SINCE 70,000 MILES. SINCE THEN, THE BREAK OIL HAS BEEN ADDING WHENEVER A PARKING BREAK LIGHT WAS TURNED ON. I HAVE DRIVEN MORE THAN 10 DIFFERENT USED AND NEW CARS IN DOMESTIC AND IMPORT. THIS IS FIRST TIME TO HAVE THE BREAK MASTER CYLINDER ISSUE. IT IS NOW 156,000 MILES. THE LEAKING BREAK OIL SEEMED TO BE DEPEND ON THE NUMBER OF THE BREAK PUSHING. THE OIL DOESN'T SEEM TO BE LEAKING WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARKING. FOR EXAMPLE, I PARKED THE CAR MORE THAN 3 WEEKS BECAUSE I TRAVELED. WHEN I CAME BACK, I DIDN'T NOTICE THE BREAK OIL LEVEL CHANGED. THE SHORTEST REFILLING THE BREAK OIL WAS WITHIN A WEEK. ONE OCCASION, IT LASTED OVER 3 MONTH. THERE WAS NO CAR ACCIDENT INVOLVED IN THIS CAR. THERE WAS NO MECHANICAL MODIFICATION DONE ON ANY OF THE PART. THIS WAS EXACTLY THE SAME CAR THAT CAME OUT FROM THE FACTORY. THE DRIVING CONDITION WAS USUALLY A CITY BOUNDARY WITH WELL PAVED ROAD. THE LONGEST DRIVING WAS 300 MILES. THE LEAKING OIL USUALLY WENT DOWN CLUTCH PEDAL THAT MADE THE PEDAL SLIPPERY. IF I HAD A HAND TOWEL TO ABSORB THE LEAKING OIL, I HAD TO CHANGE IT ONCE A MONTH OR TWO MONTH. THE BREAK OIL DIDN'T SEEM TO LEAK OUTSIDE OF THE CABIN. THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT WAS CLEAN AND DRY.

STARTING ISSUES RELATED TO IGNITION HOUSING AND OR SWITCH. HAD TO PAY $500 TO HAVE REPLACED. WAS TOLD BY REPAIR SHOP THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH FORD VEHICLES ESPECIALLY THE FOCUS SERIES. THERE ARE ALSO NUMEROUS YOUTUBE VIDEOS DOCUMENTING THE SAME ISSUE AS WELL AS SEVERAL FORUMS AND ARTICLES THAT CAN ALL BE FOUND WITH AN EASY SEARCH ON THE WEB. MY CAR STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS STARTING AT AROUND 100,000 MILES UNTIL IT WOULD START AT ALL.

I HAVE REPLACED THE TIRES ON THIS VEHICLE 5 TIMES IN 6 YEARS. THE CAR WAS PURCHASED IN 2010, ONLY 2 YEARS OLD, AND THE FIRST SET OF TIRES WAS REPLACED IN 2011. EACH TIME THE TIRES ARE REPLACED IT'S BECAUSE THERE IS ABNORMAL WEAR ON THE INSIDE OF THE TIRES; SO MUCH DAMAGE, THE STEEL RADIAL FROM TIRES IS STICKING OUT. I WAS TOLD I NEEDED NEW SWAY BAR LINKS; REPLACED THOSE AS WELL, BUT HAVE SINCE PUT ANOTHER NEW SET OF TIRES ON THIS CAR. WHEN I REPLACED THESE TIRES, I ALSO HAD TO REPLACE 3 LUG NUTS WHICH WERE BROKEN AS WELL. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM; MANY OTHERS ARE EXPERIENCING THIS SAME ISSUE. TWO MECHANICS HAVE TRIED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT IS CAUSING THE TIRES TO WEAR PREMATURELY AND UNEVENLY, AND I STILL HAVE NO ANSWER. MY TIRES WHICH ARE SUPPOSED TO BE GOOD FOR 45,000 MILES OR MORE, DEPENDING ON WHAT I BUY, AND NO MATTER WHAT BRAND I BUY, NONE HAVE LASTED 20,000 MILES. THE ONLY OPTION I HAVE IS TO REPLACE MY TIRES APPROXIMATELY ONCE A YEAR WHICH IS UNACCEPTABLE. I REFUSE TO SPEND MONEY REPLACING PARTS TRYING TO FIX THE PROBLEM BY "PROCESS OF ELIMINATION" BECAUSE NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT THE ROOT CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM IS. THE PREMATURE, UNEVEN TIRE WEAR IS SIMPLY A "SYMPTOM" OF A DEFECT THAT NO ONE SEEMS TO BE ABLE TO IDENTIFY. THE FIRST THING YOU WILL NOTICE IS THE VIBRATION; WHICH CONTINUES TO GET WORSE EVEN AFTER ALIGNMENTS AND TIRE ROTATIONS. ALSO, THE LOW TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT WILL GO ON BECAUSE THE TIRES LOSE AIR SINCE THEY ARE WEARING PREMATURELY AND UNEVENLY. ONCE TH

OUR CAR IN 2017 WHILE DRIVING ON ROAD SUDDENLY STOPPED WITH ALL THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON. CAR GOT STUCK AND WE COULD NOT START ENGINE IN NEXT FEW MINS. AFTER FEW MINS EVERYTHING BACK TO NORMAL. WE STARTED DRIVING AGAIN. AND DID NOT HAVE THAT PROBLEM AGAIN FOR A WHILE. FAST FORWARD TO OCTOBER 2018 IT HAS DONE IT 3 TIMES NOW WHERE THE LIGHTS COME ON WHILE DRIVING AND IT DIES NO POWER AT ALL I HAVE TO PUT IN PARK AND TURN OFF. IT THEN NORMALLY STARTS RIGHT UP AGAIN. THIS STOPS IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC IN BUSY STREETS NEVER KNOW WHEN IT IS GOING TO HAPPEN. TOOK CAR TO LOCAL SHOP. THEY SAID SERIOUS PROBLEM BIT WHERE THEY COULD NOT DIAGNOSE. NEXT WENT TO FORD DEALER. SAME ISSUE HAPPENED IN FRONT OF THEM . THEY TOLD ME IT COULD BE IGNITION AS IT WAS OFF A LITTLE BUT THAT IT WOULD NOT START SO THAT WOULD NOT BE THE PROBLEM WITH IT DYING WHILE DRIVING. BUT AGAIN SAME PROBLEM. WE CALLED THEM AGAIN AND THIS TIME THEY HAD SIMILAR EXPERIENCE WHILE DRIVING CAR BACK TO SHOP. BUT AFTER GOING THERE THEY COULD NOT REPRODUCE PROBLEM. SO THEY SAID TO TAKE CAR BACK BUT ADVISED TO BE CAREFUL WHILE DRIVING AS CAR MIGHT STOP ANYTIME

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR OPENED INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. A LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE AIR BAG INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE AIR BAG MODULE FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT SPOKE WITH LITHIA FORD OF KLAMATH FALLS (2833 WASHBURN WAY, KLAMATH FALLS, OR 97603) WHO STATED THAT THERE WAS NO TSB OR RECALL. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 07V541000 (AIR BAGS). THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

I HAVE AN 2008 FORD FOCUS SE I BOUGHT IN 2016 AND HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH PASSENGER SEAT BELT NOT LOCKING IN PLACE, DOORS NOT LOCKING/UNLOCKING PASSENGER SIDE, AND THE BIGGEST PROBLEM I HAVE EXPERIENCED TWICE IS THE ENGINE REVVENING UP AND MAKING STRANGE NOISES LIKE IT IS GOING TO BLOW UP THE CAR DOES NOT INCREASE WITH SPEED BUT ENGINE REVS AND WHEN BRAKING THE REV WILL SPEED UP THEN DECREASE TO BREAK. PLEASE RECALL BEFORE I GET INTO AN ACCIDENT!!!!!

THE DRIVER SEAT BELT NO LONGER BUCKLES. IT WILL GO INTO THE HOLSTER BUT DOES NOT CLICK.

DOOR LOCKS STICK AND LOCK. VARIES WITH TEMPERATURE/DUST. UNKNOWN ACTUAL CAUSE BUT HAPPENS TO BACK DOORS. SOMETIMES DRIVERS SIDE SOMETIMES PASSENGER. MOST RECENT BACK DOORS ARE UNLOCKED AGAIN BUT DRIVERS SIDE FRONT WILL NOT OPEN FROM OUTSIDE BUT WILL FROM INSIDE. WHEN IT WAS BACK DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUT. DOES NOT MAKE A DIFFERENCE IF MOVING OR NOT. THIS STARTED WITH THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AND THEN SWITCHED TO DRIVER SIDE OVER A YEAR AGO AND HAS BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE FOR ME. THE PASSENGER SIDE FINALLY RELEASED A COUPLE WEEKS AGO BUT DRIVERS SIDE WAS STILL LOCKED. AFTER A TRIP SHOPPING I HIT THE LOCK SWITCH BY ACCIDENT AND DOOR UNLOCKED. AFTER I OPENED THE DOOR IT DID NOT WANT TO LATCH. I FINALLY GOT IT TO CLOSE AFTER MESSING WITH THE LOCK BETWEEN COMPRESSED AIR, PB BLASTER AND GREASE. BOTH BACK DOORS ARE FREE NOW BUT MY DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE NOW. IT DOES NOT SEEM TO BE LOCKED BUT ITS NOT WORKING RIGHT. THE BACK PASSENGER WAS VERY SIMILAR BUT IT FREED ITSELF. NOT SO SURE I WILL HAVE ANY LUCK WITH THE NEW ISSUE.

IGNITION SWITCH THE CAR IS HARD TO START GOT TO PUSH KEY IN TO START