2006 Ford Freestyle

Defect. ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE FOLLOWING STATES: ALASKA, COLORADO, CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, IDAHO, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KANSAS, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, MONTANA, NEBRASKA, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, NORTH DAKOTA, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, SOUTH DAKOTA, UTAH, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND WYOMING. THE SIDE DOOR LATCH MECHANISMS MAY EXPERIENCE WATER INTRUSION ALLOWING THE LATCH MECHANISM TO FREEZE IN COLD WEATHER.

Risk. AS A RESULT, THE DOOR LATCH PAWL MAY NOT RETURN TO THE LATCH POSITION WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED, AND THE DOOR COULD OPEN WHILE THE VEHICLE IS MOVING.

Remedy. DEALERS WILL INSTALL A SHIELD OVER THE FRONT LATCHES; SEAL A DRAIN HOLE IN THE REAR WINDOW TRIM MOLDING ON THE FREESTYLE REAR SIDE DOORS; AND APPLY GREASE TO ALL FRONT AND REAR SIDE-DOOR LATCH MECHANISMS FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 8, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.

I recently got my transmission replaced for my 2006 Ford Freestyle in December 2025. Yet, I am having transmission issues on my car now. Bates Ford was the dealership who replaced my transmission, but I feel as if where they got my replaced transmission from was not honest about the product it sold to me. Please help!

Transmission is slipping not getting power when gas is pressed down Rpms are jumping not going into gear. Making a terrible sound in park. Passenger door not closing

Car struggles to change gears. ABS, ENGINE, and THROTTLE warning lights on. Rough idle, car does not accelerate when shifted into drive.

Took the vehicle in to local Ford for 120000 mile service and was informed the subframe was rusted and starting to separate. The part is no longer available and maybe they could find a used one as they have had to do in other cases. Not sure why just the front subframe is bad and no other part of the frame structure also the car has had rustproofing done on it. Reading on the internet this seems to be a common problem with these subframes.

I was driving down the road and my car just stopped like it went into Neutral but it was in drive the car starts up but when I’m Drive doesn’t go anywhere

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Freestyle. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the rear driver’s and passenger’s side doors would not close securely. The vehicle was not taken to a local dealer to be inspected however, the local dealer was contacted by phone and the contact was informed that the vehicle was not included in a recall. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 06V383000 (Latches/Locks/Linkages) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and confirmed that the VIN was not included. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Freestyle. The contact stated while driving approximately 25 MPH, the vehicle inadvertently stalled with the battery, oil pressure, and check engine warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer but was not diagnosed. The manufacturer was informed of the failure but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 210,000.

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Freestyle. The contact stated that she noticed that after it rained, the front passenger’s side floor would fill up with water. The contact was unsure where the leak was located. The contact called the local dealer and made them aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 139,372.

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Freestyle. The contact stated as she was driving 5 MPH and coming to a stop, the brake pedal was depressed but failed to respond and the vehicle kept accelerating. The brake pedal was soft. The contact stated she continued to depress the brake pedal until it responded, and she was able to pull to the side of the road and park the vehicle. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact stated the dealer was made aware of the failure and advised to schedule an appointment to get the vehicle diagnosed. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and did not provide assistance. The approximate failure mileage was 175,600.

THE WRENCH LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON OUT OF NOWHERE AND THE CAR ISN'T DRIVABLE. WE KEEP REPAIRING THINGS BUT THEN IT COMES UP WITH DIFFERENT CODES.

WHEN DRIVING THE CAR ON A SUNNY/OR TO MANY ERRANDS I WILL START SEEING THE AREA FOR THE RPM'S TO GO UP AND DOWN. AT THAT POINT I HAVE TO BASICALLY DRIVE WITH BOTH FEET. THE CAR WHEN PLACED ON EITHER DRIVE OR REVERSE WILL EXCELERATE ON IT'S ON, I THEREFORE HAVE TO BREAK QUICKLY SO AS TO NOT HIT A PEDESTRIAN OR AUTOMOBILE, WHICH IN TURN THE CAR WILL TURN OFF. IF IN TRAFFIC I MUST THROW IT ONTO NEUTRAL AND RESTART CAR. IT IS A VERY SERIOUS ISSUE

I JUST BOUGHT A 2006 FREESTYLE FROM A LOCAL DEALER AND HAD TRANSMISSION ISSUES ON THE WAY HOME ON THE 2ND DAY OF OWNERSHIP. CARCOMPLAINTS.COM HAS MANY COMPLAINTS LISTED FROM WITH THE CVT TRANSMISSION WITH EXORBITANT REPAIRS COSTS WELL OVER $5000.00

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 FORD FREESTYLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE IDLING TO PARK WHEN THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY SURGED 12 FEET FORWARD AT APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH. THE CONTACT PRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP AND CRASHED INTO THE CONCRETE WALL IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE WHERE IT CAME TO A STOP. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED NECK, BACK, AND CHEST INJURIES THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE CONTACTS RESIDENCE WHERE IT CURRENTLY REMAINS. THE CONTACT HAD NOT TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 135,000. INVALID VIN.

CAR LURCHES FORWARD WHEN PARKING. IT IS WORSE IF THE AC IS ON.

CAR WON'T GO INTO ANY GEAR UNTIL ABOUT 45 MIN WHEN TRANSMISSION IS WARM. HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE WITH SAME ISSUE.

WHEN CRUISING IN THE CITY OR HIGHWAY, THE CVT TRANSMISSION SLIPS AND DOWNSHIFTS TO A LOWER GEAR, IT WOULD REV BUT NO POWER. THE CAR WOULD NOT GO ANY FASTER. THE WRENCH ICON IN THE DASH WOULD LIGHT UP. THE ONLY WAY TO REMEDY IT IS TO STOP THE CAR AND TURN THE ENGINE OFF, THEN IT RESETS. IT HAPPENED TO ME MULTIPLE TIMES IN A DAY.

I BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM PRIVATE SELLER. ON THE DRIVE HOME I TURNED ON AC AND NOTICED A SURGE SO I TURNED THE AIR OFF. AFTER GETTING THE CAR HOME I FILLED THE TANK AS IT WAS ALMOST EMPTY WHEN I PURCHASED THE CAR. THE CAR BEGAN TO SURGE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT AN IDLE, AND THEN BEGAN TO SURGE WHILE DRIVING. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND CODES INDICATED IT WAS A MISFIRE, SO DID A TUNE UP (CHANGED SPARK PLUGS AND COILS) ONLY TO HAVE THE ISSUE GET WORSE. THE CAR IS NOW ALMOST STALLING AND SURGING HARD. CAR IS VERY SLOW TO ACCELERATE AND FEELS TO HAVE NO POWER WHILE ATTEMPTING TO GET UP TO EVEN IN TOWN SPEEDS(25-30MPH) CAR IS UNDRIVABLE SAFELY AT THIS POINT AND I HAVE NOT EVEN OWNED 2 MONTHS. SURGING HAPPENS AT IDLE, LOW SPEEDS, FREEWAY SPEEDS, AND SURGES VIOLENTLY WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE.

IT STARTED MAKING LIKE A WHINING GROWLING KINDA NOISE WHEN NOT IN HEAR AND WEN YOU PUT IT IN REVERSE AND START TO GO BACK WARDS ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR WOULD COME TO A COMPLETE STOP CHANGE GEARS TO DRIVE AND YOU COULD GO A LITTLE BIT IT WOULD FINALLY CLUNK REAL HARD AND YOU COULD GO THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE LITTLE WRENCH WOULD POP UP AND I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO GO ANY WHERE AT ALL

THE TRANSMISSION DON'T WORK LIKE THOUSANDS OF FORD FREE STYLE AND THE TRANSMISSION IS HARD TO FIND AND VERY EXPENSIVE BECAUSE THEY DON'T WORK !!!

I JUST BOUGHT THE VEHICLE VIA PRIVATE SELLER. NO ISSUES WERE REPORTED BY SELLER. I FILLED VEHICLE AND ENTERED THE FREEWAY. A FEW MOMENTS LATER THE VEHICLE STARTED JOLTING WHILE AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED. I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR, THE VEHICLE DID NOT RESPOND. THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO JOLT OFF/ON. I EXITED THE FREEWAY DUE TO FEELING UNSAFE TO CONTINUE ON THE FREEWAY. UPON EXITING THE RAMP, THE VEHICLE STALLED. I HAD NO CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE AS THE BREAKS DID NOT SEEM TO WORK AND THE POWER STEERING WAS OUT. I PULLED THE STEERING WHEEL, AS HARD AS I COULD, TO THE RIGHT TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD. ONCE THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP. I PUT THE VEHICLE IN PARK, RESTARTED THE VEHICLE AND CONTINUED DRIVING CAUTIOUSLY. DRIVING AT A SLOWER RATE, 35-40MPH, THE VEHICLE STARTED TO JOLT AGAIN AND HAD DIFFICULTY ACCELERATING. AFTER SEVERAL DAYS OF THIS ISSUE, I CLEANED THE BATTERY TERMINALS TO ENSURE THERE WAS A GOOD CONNECTION. I THOUGHT THE ISSUE WAS RESOLVED. AT THIS POINT I HAD HALF A TANK. A COUPLE DAYS LATER, I WAS ON EMPTY. I FILLED UP THE VEHICLE FOR THE WEEK. MY VEHICLE IS NOW JOLTING AND SURGING AGAIN. I WAS ALMOST HOME, WHEN THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF, I LOST POWER STEERING AGAIN AND THE BREAKS WERE NOT WORKING. I AGAIN PULLED THE STEERING WHEEL, AS HARD AS I COULD TO THE RIGHT, TO GET OFF THE ROAD AS AN ONCOMING CAR WAS JUST AHEAD. ONCE THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP, I PUT IT IN PARK, RESTARTED THE CAR, ENTERED THE DRIVEWAY AND PARKED IT. TODAY THE VEHICLE IS STILL JOLTING, SURGING AND HAS