When shifting the vehicle it says “service shifter”. Once again I look up this issue on the web and hundreds of others are saying they have the same issue with jeeps and a variety of dodge vehicles.
2017 Dodge Durango complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2017 record →
The tail light on the tail gate accumulates water and causes the light to go out. This could cause the entire brake light to short and could result in a rear end collision. 85 percent of the Dodge Durangos I see have the same issue. This isn’t a wear and tear problem, the lights weren’t sealed properly from the factory. Attached are just a few photos demonstrating the problem. Dodge owes it to the consumer to have this recalled
The air bags light goes of and on and I got it fixed when I purchased the car and it is doing it again and air bags light is coming of and on and is always beeping saying its urgent the dealer won't look at I any more because they say it might be a recall
Back on Aug 24th, I brought in my 2017 Dodge Durango for what I suspected was a burnt out headlight bulb on the left side. Turned out, I needed a new ballast. Today, it's now my right side that needs a new ballast. I have looked over the complaints for this SUV and it is not an uncommon issue.
Vehicle was traveling around 60 moh.. Jumped curve and hit a tree. Air bags failed to deploy. Driver sustained multiple injuries including fractured pelvis, torn aeorta, hemothorax under ribcage, and several cuts, scrapes, and bruises requiring stitches.
The vehicle has a rear parking assist function. Via a Uconnect (touchscreen) system, the function can be enabled or disabled. The Uconnect system allows the operator to select whether the function will provide an audible warning or brake automatically if an object behind the vehicle is detected by any of 4 sensors installed in the rear bumper. The function can also be enabled or disabled via a physical button below the Uconnect system. I purchased the vehicle new and have owned the vehicle for 3 years. I have towed boats many times. Until recently, I was able to successfully use the touchscreen or physical button to disable the function when backing up with a trailer connected. Now I cannot disable the function or braking via either method. It appears to turn off for about 1 second before turning back on. I've tested in various conditions such as park/neutral, with/without a trailer, etc. to no avail. I thought I would try resetting software in the rear parking assist controller, so I disconnected both batteries and removed the proper fuse, but that didn't fix the issue. That got me worried because the failsafe should be that if the control system goes bad, the function should be disabled. I believe this to be true, because sometimes you need to back up to avoid collisions with irresponsible drivers, etc. If you are towing a trailer, you wouldn't be able to back up if the system failed. I understand about failsafe design from working on safety-critical aircraft computers. I r
The contact owns a 2017 Dodge Durango. The contact stated while driving 40 mph, the contact was pulled over by the police and was informed that their rear center taillight was inoperable. Additionally, the license plate light was also inoperable. The contact was able to continue driving back to the residence. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer to be inspected. The contact was informed that there was a cost for a diagnostic test. The contact declined due to the cost. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 84,506.
The contact owns a 2017 Dodge Durango. The contact stated that the headlights would turn off inadvertently after driving for 30 minutes. The contact was made aware of the headlight failure when she was pulled over by the police. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and diagnosed that the headlight assemblies were faulty, but only the light bulbs were replaced. The failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable. The Vin was unavailable.
The climate control system is malfunctioning, and the windows will not roll down. The heat comes on full blast and cannot be turned down or off, and it is summertime. On a hot day the car cannot be driven more than a couple of miles because the interior becomes so hot that it becomes difficult to breathe and remain conscious with the heat on full blast and the windows up. The controls for the windows do not work. The controls for the heat do not work. The climate control system is connected to, or is controlled, by the Uconnect System, which also does not work. I cannot safely operate this vehicle for more than about 5 minutes on a hot day. The vehicle is available for inspection. The problem was reproduced by an auto dealer, who said that it is likely a problem in the electrical system and would take about 3 hours to diagnose. The vehicle was not inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others. However, I called FCA. They told be to do a software update for the Uconnect System. I successfully updated the software, but it did not resolve the problem. There were no warning lamps, messages, or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure. However, about three months ago the Uconnect System began malfunctioning by occasionally and intermittently rebooting – i.e., flashing on and off. After a couple of weeks, the rebooting occurred more frequently, and now it will work at all.
The rear center tail light, or track light, was poorly designed and it allows water to get trapped inside and sit, resulting in the lights burning out. This single light assembly consists of a brake light that is the width of the rear hatch, a backup camera, and reverse lights. The only way to fix this problem is to replace the entire light assembly which costs over $1,000. This is a very widespread problem with Dodge Durangos based on the vast number of complaints for this specific issue, and I am surprised that this is not a recall considering the number of complaints associated with this problem. As you can see from the picture that I have attached, the bottom lights on both sides no longer work because of the sitting water inside. I tried to get this problem fixed, being that it is a manufacturer defect, but Dodge is unwilling to help me because my 2017 Durango is just out of warranty. I would greatly appreciate help with this problem. Thank you
Water in the rear tailgate light(race track)
Passenger headrest deployed without being in a car accident
BOTH SECOND ROW SEAT BELTS FAILED. THE DEALER COMMENT IS THAT BOTH RETRACTORS BROKEN. THE SEAT BELTS FAILED WITHIN 3 YEARS, BUT OUTSIDE THE MILEAGE RESTRICTION FOR WARRANTY REPAIR. THE VEHICLE IS PREDOMINANTLY FOR BUSINESS TRAVEL, WITH LIMITED SECOND ROW PASSENGERS, AND AVERAGING 25K MILES PER YEAR. A DODGE CASE WAS OPENED ON MY BEHALF, BUT I WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND NO ACTION WILL BE TAKEN. THE PARTS ARE ROUGHLY $250, BUT LABOR TO INSTALL THEM IS SUBSTANTIALLY MORE, AS THE INTERIOR HAS TO BE DISASSEMBLED. IT IS UNREASONABLE FOR SEAT BELTS TO FAIL WITH 75,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE, AND UNDER 200 USES.
TAIL LIGHT CRACKED ALLOWING WATER IN LIGHTS CAUSING LIGHTS TO GO OUT. NOTICED THIS ABOUT 1.5 YEARS AGO. NO OTHER DAMAGE, LOOKS LIKE IT WAS CUT WITH A LASER. CAR WAS STATIONARY
THE RACETRACK LIGHTS HAS WATER IN IT AND IT HAS FLASHED OFF AN ON. ONCE THE WATER WAS OUT IT CAME BACK ON
THE REAR LIGHTS ARE FILLING WITH WATER. THIS WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE SHORT OR PROBLEM WITH LIGHTS AND I FEEL IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I WILL ATTEMPT TO HAVE DEALER REPAIR, BUT I AM NOT SURE WHAT IS CAUSING THIS. I SEE OTHER ISSUES STATING THE RACETRACK LIGHT IS FILLING WITH WATER. WE HAVE DRAINED THE WATER NUMEROUS TIMES. I SEE THIS IS AN ISSUED FOR 2014, 2015, 2016 YEARS AS WELL I AM ATTACHING SIMILAR COMPLAINTS
THE REAR TAIL LIGHT BAR FILLED WITH WATER AND STOPPED WORKING. THIS PART WAS 1ST REPLACED IN DECEMBER 2018, AND NOW THE 2ND ONE IS NO LONGER WORKING. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD AND A KNOWN ISSUE FOR THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND CHRYSLER AND THEY ARE NOT WILLING TO REPLACE OR FIX THIS KNOWN DEFECT.
I HAVE A 2017 DODGE DURANGO RT. MY TAILGATE LIGHTS HAVE WATER IN THEM AND DURING MY TRAVELS I AM NOTICING MY TRUCK IS NOT THE ONLY ONE. TRYING TO FIGURE OUT A FIX FOR THIS PROBLEM. IS IT MY RESPONSIBILITY DODGES?
THE LEFT TURN SIGNAL AND THE BACK TRACK LIGHT GO OUT AT THE SAME TIME INTERMITTENTLY. ALSO THE STOP AND START FUNCTION IS STILL NOT WORKING CORRECTLY AND I HAD IT AT THE DEALER, DUTCHESS DODGE 2X'S NOW. 1ST TIME THEY STATED THE STOP/ START BATTERY AND THE 2ND TIME THEY REPLACED THE CEL AND STILL HAVING ISSUES WITH NOT WORKING CORRECTLY. I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS TRUCK SINCE OCTOBER. THERE'S NO WAY I SHOULD BE HAVING THESE ISSUES. THERE IS DEFINITELY GOING ON WITH THIS TRUCK AND NOT SURE WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. WHEN I WAS DRIVING AND MADE A STOP THE START/STOP FUNCTION STARTED WORKING BUT THEN THE LEFT TURN SIGNAL AND THE BACK TRACK LIGHT STOPPED WORKING . THE FIRST DAY I GOT THE TRUCK HOME THE START/STOP FUNCTION WAS NOT WORKING BUT THE TURN SIGNAL AND TRACK LIGHT WERE FINE. I PURCHASED THE TRUCK AND IT HAD 70751 MILES ON IT. THE STOP START/ STOP FUNCTION WAS NOT WORKING FROM THE DAY I PURCHASE IT AND THEN CAM ONE PROBLEM AFTER ANOTHER.
BOUGHT MY DURANGO COUPLE MONTHS AGO AND THE CENTER TAILLIGHT STOPPED WORKING AND FOUND OUT IT IS FULL OF WATER AND WHEN I WENT TO DEALERSHIP THE SAID THEY SELL SO MANY THAT THEY ARE ON BACK ORDER AND PRICE WAS $1200.00 SO AFTER READING SOME FORUMS I REALIZE THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THE MANUFACTURER IS NOT REPLACING THEM AS A RECALL WHEN THEY KNOW THAT THIS IS A HUGE PROBLEM
MY CENTER TAIL LIGHT KNOWN AS THE RACE TRACK LIGHT HAD GOTTEN MOISTURE IN IT AND SOME OF THE LED LIGHTS WENT OUT. I WAS IN THE PROCESS OF TRYING TO FIND A SOLUTION AS TO WHY THIS HAPPENED AS MY VEHICLE IS NOT EVEN 4 YEARS OLD YET. THIS ISSUE STARTED NOVEMBER OF 2020. WELL FAST FORWARD TO 2-13-21 THE WHOLE CENTER PART HAS NOW COMPLETELY WENT OUT AND DOESNT WORK AT ALL. I HAVE BEEN DOING ALOT OF RESEARCH AND SEE THERE IS ALOT OF ISSUES WITH PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS AND THE MANUFACTURER NOT DOING ANYTHING ABOUT THE ISSUE TO FIX THEM. THIS IS A HUGE SAFTEY CONCERN AND WOULD LIKE SOME MORE FEEDBACK ON WHAT COULD BE DONE TO HAVE IT FIXED AS ITS NOT A CHEAP FIX AT ALL. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE AND HOPEFULLY WE CAN GET SOMETHING GOING FOR THIS.
MY LIGHTS KEEP BLINKING ON AND OFF MY WINDOW KEEPS GOING UP AND DOWN THE PASSENGER WINDOW MY REMOTE STARTER SOMETIME DON'T WANT TO START
HAVING ISSUES WITH WATER IN RACE TRACK TAILLIGHT AND NOW. THE WHOLE RACETRACK TAIL LIGHT IS OUT
GEAR SHIFT WILL SHIFT FROM PARK TO DRIVE. VEHICLE WAS PARKED WHILE RUNNING AND SHIFTED TO DRIVE WITHOUT ANYONE IN THE VEHICLE. VEHICLE ALSO SHIFTED OUT OF GEAR WHILE STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC SIGNAL. WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF PARK. HAD TO SHUTOFF VEHICLE AND RESTART IT TO GET OUT OF PARK.
DRIVING CAR ON FREEWAY WHEN THE COMPUTER LOCKED UP SYSTEM OF AWD AND SENSORS. THE BACK TIRES WOULD NOT TURN AND CAR STARTED TO JERK AND SLOWED DOWN. THE DASH BOARD LIGHTED UP AND ALL SENSORS SAID OFF OFF OFF . THE MILEAGE SPEEDOMETER CHANGED TO KILOMETERS AND THE MAPPING SCREEN HAD THE CAR GOING IN A CIRCLE. THE STEERING WHEEL WAS STIFF AND CARS WHERE PASSING ME BY. THE CAR MADE A CLUNKING SOUND WHEN IT FIRST HAPPENED. I GOT SCARED TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO. I SLOWLY GOT OUT OF TRAFFIC AND OFF THE FREEWAY TO PARK THE CAR. HAD THE TOW PERSON COME AND WE HARD TIME GETTING IT TO STAY IN NEUTRAL. I HAD TO STAY IN THE CAR SO IT WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. WHEN GOT IT TO DEALERS FOR REPAIR THE REPAIR PLACE SAID THE COMPUTER MUST HAVE RESET ITSELF AND THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG?? I FEEL THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM? THIS SHOULD BE LOOKED INTO AS IT COULD BE LIFE THREATING WHEN DRIVING ALONG AND THE COMPUTER TAKES OVER LIKE THAT AND YOU HAVE NO CONTROL OF THE WHEELS. MY TOW PERSON SAW WHAT IT WAS DOING ALSO NOT JUST ME. SO I KNOW IT WAS HAPPENING. SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THAT COMPUTER SYSTEM WHERE IT JUST SHUTS DOWN LIKE THAT. IT HAS DONE IT BEFORE ON A SMALLER AREA OF JUST THE HIGH BEAM CONTROLS BUT THIS TIME IT WAS THE WHOLE DRIVING MECHANIZM. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS PROBLEM. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE A NEW COMPUTER OR SOMETHING DONE WITH MY CAR SO IT IS SAFER AND MORE RELIABLE. SINCERELY, JAN MILOS
WHEN I DRIVING OR JUST HIT THE GAS IT FEEL LIKE MY REAR DIFFERENTIAL TRYING TO JUMP OUT THE CAR IDK I'M PRETTY SURE IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE HALFSHAFT SEPARATION I DEFINITELY NEED TO GET THIS LOOKED AT BECAUSE JUST GOT THE CAR 3 DAYS AGO
MY 2017 DODGE DURANGO HAD WATER INTRUSION IN THE LIFT-GATE TAIL LIGHT. I HAD ONE REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY AFTER I NOTICED THAT THE LIGHTS HAD FAILED AND COULD SEE THE WATER POOLING IN THE LIGHT. THE REPLACE TAIL LIGHT ALSO HAS WATER POOLING IN THE BOTTOM PART OF THE LIGHT. THE DEALER WON'T REPLACE THIS ONE FOR FREE BECAUSE THE WARRANTY HAD EXPIRED.
WHILE DRIVING, THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH CONTROL PANEL (SPEED, RPM'S, BLINKERS, ETC) TURN OFF AND ON RANDOMLY MULTIPLE TIMES. WHILE DRIVING, THE LANE SENSE WILL TURN OFF AND ON RANDOMLY MULTIPLE TIMES. WHILE DRIVING, THE ACC/FXCW WILL TURN OFF AND ON RANDOMLY MULTIPLE TIMES. WHILE DRIVING, THE PASSENGER WINDOW WILL ROLL DOWN MULTIPLE TIMES. WHILE DRIVING, THE AM/FM/XM RADIO CUTS IN & OUT. THESE THINGS HAPPEN ON CITY STREETS AND THE HIGHWAY WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN-MOTION. ISSUES TYPICALLY TAKE PLACE WHEN THE TEMPERATURE IS BELOW 30-DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. ISSUES WERE OBSERVED JANUARY 2019 FEBRUARY 2019 NOVEMBER 2019 DECEMBER 2019 JANUARY 2020 NOVEMBER 2020 SERVICE DATES WITH AUTHORIZED DODGE DEALERS INCLUDE: FEBRUARY 4, 2019 FEBRUARY 12, 2019 DECEMBER 12, 2019 DECEMBER 21, 2019 **ALL WERE UNDER WARRANTY & NONE EVER OFFICIALLY DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE. I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE TESTED BY 3 DIFFERENT DODGE DEALERS WHO TOLD ME THEY WERE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE. THE DEALERS WERE UNABLE TO PROVIDE ME WITH THE INFORMATION THEY WERE SEEING FROM THEIR DIAGNOSTICS MACHINES AS IT WAS DEEMED CONFIDENTIAL. IN ADDITION, THE FOLLOWING ISSUES ALSO OCCUR: - KEY FOBS WILL NOT START THE VEHICLE - U-CONNECT WILL NOT START THE VEHICLE
WATER ENTERS THE REAR TAIL LIGHT TRACK LIGHTING SYSTEM, CAUSING SHORTS IN THE LED LIGHTS. I HAVE HAD IT REPLACED 2 TIMES NOW BECAUSE OF THIS DEFECT. THE NEW TRACK LIGHT HASN'T BEEN INSTALLED FOR 1 YEAR YET AND WATER HAS GOTTEN BACK INTO THE TAIL LIGHTS CAUSE SHORTAGES AND OUTAGES. THIS IS A HAZARD THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED BY DODGE
ALL DOORS LOCK EXCEPT FOR THE DRIVER'S DOOR
THE LIFT GATE BRAKE LIGHT GETS MOISTURE INSIDE DURING RAIN. THE WATER BUILDS UP AND BURNS OUT THE LED LIGHTS. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. YOU NEED BRAKE LIGHTS.
1. MY FUEL TANK WILL NOT FILL UP ALL THE WAY AND WILL STOP AT EACH FILL UP. I HAVE TO MANUALLY KEEP TRYING TO PUMP THE FUEL. ALMOST ALWAYS I CAN NEVER FILL FULLY UP. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED. 2. I ALSO HAVE AN ISSUE WITH MY RACETRACK TAIL LIGHT WITH CONDENSATION AND WATER GETTING INSIDE. I HAVE A FAULTY LIGHT AS I HAVE HAD MY DEALER CHECK FOR CRACKS OR OPENINGS.3. AUTO START ON/OFF JERKY AND SOMETIMES DOES NOT START ON TIME AND WILL JOLT FORWARD WHEN TRYING TO ACCERATE AT STOP LIGHT.
DRIVER SIDE HEADREST POPPED OUT AND WON'T GO BACK IN
I PREVIOUSLY REPORTED A FUELING PROBLEM WITH THIS CAPLESS FUEL SYSTEM. THIS IS TO UPDATE THE INFORMATION AND PROBLEM. FUEL STILL CAN'T BE PUT INTO THE TANK. THE RELIEVE VALVE OR SOMETHING IN THE SYSTEM FORCES THE GAS STATION FUEL PUMP TO CUT OFF EVERY FEW SECONDS. THE SOLUTION FROM THE DEALER AND ONE MECHANIC IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE FUEL TANK AT $1500-$1600. IF YOU CAN'T PUT FUEL IN A VEHICLE THAT'S 3 YEARS OLD WITH 45K MILES, HOW CAN IT BE SAFE TO DRIVE? I BASICALLY HAVE TO STAND THERE FOR 10-15 MINUTES CLICKING THE FUEL PUMP OVER AND OVER WHILE HOLDING THE FUEL PUMP LEVER AT 1/3 ON. I NOW HAVE NO WAY TO KNOW IF THE TANK IS ACTUALLY FULL OR NOT OTHER THAN GUESSING BY HOW MANY GALLONS I THINK SHOULD BE GOING INTO THE TANK. GUESSING INCORRECTLY RESULTS IN GAS POURING OUT OF THE TANK, DOWN THE VEHICLE AND ALL OVER THE GROUND. GREAT FOR THE ENVIRONMENT.
THE RACE TRACK TAIL LIGHT HAS WATER IN IT AND CONDENSATION. THE LED LIGHTS SHORT IT OUT WHILE DRIVING AND ALMOST CAUSED AND ACCIDENT. GOT STOP BY THE COPS BECAUSE IN HIS WORDS MY LIGHTS KEEP FLICKERING IS A QUALITY CHECK DEFECT.THERES A WHOLE COMMUNITY GOING TROUGH THIS PROBLEM WE NEED A SOLUTION. THIS HAPPENS IF THE TRUCK IS STOP OR MOVING GETS WATER INSIDE THE RACE TRACK TAILED LIGHTS.WE GETTING A HURRICANE HERE IN TEXAS SO MUCH WATER MY HOUSE MIGHT NOT FLOOD BUT MY LIGHTS WILL.
THE CAPLESS (NO GAS CAP) FUEL SYSTEM WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO PUT FUEL IN THE VEHICLE. IT HAS SOME SORT OF CHECK VALVE THAT IS FAILING AND CAUSES THE FUEL PUMP TO SHUT OFF EVEN WHEN YOU ARE RUNNING ON EMPTY. IF YOU SEARCH THE INTERNET, THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME PROBLEM. IT STARTED AS AN OCCASIONAL PROBLEM WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS 2 YEARS OLD. NOW AT 3 YEARS OLD, THE ONLY WAY TO FILL IT, IS TO TURN THE GAS PUMP HANDLE UPSIDE DOWN WHICH CAN CAUSE GAS TO LEAK OUT ON THE SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND THE GROUND. EVEN THIS METHOD ONLY WORKS 60% OF THE TIME. IF YOU CAN'T PUT GAS IN THE VEHICLE, YOU ARE AT RISK OF RUNNING OUT OF GAS ON A BUSY INTERSTATE WHICH IS A MAJOR SAFETY PROBLEM.
PARKSENSE MODULE FAILED. VEHICLE HAS LESS THAN 33,000 MILES. WHEN PARKSENSE BUTTON IS PRESSED IT CHIME ONCE.
WATER POOLING IN TAILLIGHTS CAUSING CORROSION TO LED'S AND BURNING THEM OUT - CAN LEAD TO SHORT CIRCUIT AND POSSIBLE FIRE.
WATER ENTERED TAILGATE LIGHT HOUSING AND POOLED UP OVER TIME. THIS CAUSED SOME OF THE LIGHTS TO GO OUT. THE DURANGO HAS LESS THAN 35,000 MILES AND DUE TO IT COMING FROM CANADA THERE IS NO FACTORY COVERAGE. SEEMS AFTER LITTLE RESEARCH IT IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND VERY COSTLY TO OWNERS. TO THE TUNE OF $1200 AND UP FOR DEALERSHIP REPLACEMENT AND LABOR. *TR
THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. MY CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY SO I TOOK IT IN FOR SERVICE. THEY INFORMED ME THAT THE WHOLE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY HAD TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE THE BALLEST WAS BAD WHICH CAUSED THE BULB TO BLOW. WITHIN TWO OR THREE WEEKS THE PASSENGER SIDE ONE WENT OUT AND WAS TOLD THE SAME THING. THE CAR WASN'T UNDER THE MANUFACTURE WARRANTY AT THAT POINT SO ENDED UP COSTING ME MONEY TO REPLACE IT. THIS IS CLEARLY A FAULT IN THE DESIGN BECAUSE THERE WAS ANOTHER CUSTOMER THERE THAT HAD THE VERY SAME ISSUE. BOTH LIGHTS WHEN YOU STARTED THE CAR THE LIGHT WOULD FLASH ON AND THEN AFTER STARTING TO DRIVE THE LIGHT WOULD THEN GO OUT. *TR
THE LIGHTS IN THE CAR ARE GOING OFF AND ON BY THEMSELVES, THE PASSENGER WINDOW GOES DOWN WITHOUT THE WINDOW BEING TOUCHED. AND THE CAR WILL TURN OFF WHEN IDLING IN THE PARK POSITION AND THE AUTOMATIC SHUT OFF IS NOT ON OR OFF.
LEAVING A FRIENDS HOUSE MY '17 DD WITH 32K MILES STALLED OUT WHILE I WAS IN A TURN LANE ON A BUSY STREET JUST AT AN INTERSECTION LEADING TO THE HIGHWAY. THE DASH LIT UP WITH SEVERAL LIKES AND THE ONLY LIGHT I COULD CATCH WAS 'POWER STEERING ISSUE CAR WILL CUT OFF SOON' THE CAR WAS STILL IN THE 'RUN' POSITION AND TURNING TO 'OFF' OR 'ACC' WAS NOT ENGAGING. I COULD NOT MOVE OR PUSH THE VEHICLE AS ENGAGE THE NEUTRAL POSITION WAS NOT HAPPENING. AFTER CALLING THE TOW TRUCK AND SITTING FOR ABOUT AN HOUR (SCARED I'D GET HIM BY ONCOMING TRAFFIC) I LOOKED IN THE MANUAL AND ONLINE TO SEE HOW TO MANUALLY ENGAGE THE NEUTRAL POSITION. AFTER A FEW FAILED ATTEMPTS I WAS ABLE TO ENGAGE IT AND MOVE IT SAFELY FROM THE STREET. TOW TRUCK ARRIVED AN HOUR LATER AND NOW NO BUTTONS WORKED. HE HAD TO USE THE MANUAL KEY TO UNLOCK DOORS AND THE DASH WAS LIGHTING UP WITH SEVERAL WARNINGS. GOING TOO FAST TO SEE OR DESCRIBE. APPT IS SCHEDULED FOR 5/28 PREVIOUSLY SCHEDULED BECAUSE TWO DAYS PRIOR TO THIS EVENT GAS GAUGE INDICATED ALMOST EMPTY. WENT TO FILL UP AND WAS ONLY ABLE TO FILL 7.7 GALLONS BEFORE GAS PUMP INDICATED THE CAR WAS FULL. AFTER I STOPPED PUMPING THE NEEDLE ONLY READ HALF A TANK BUT WOULD NOT LET ME CONTINUE TO FUEL AS IT INDICATED IT WAS ALREADY FULL. *TR
DRIVER SIDE HEAD LAMP REPEATEDLY FAILS AND BURNS OUT AFFECTION NIGHT TIME DRIVING VISIBILITY. WHEN EACH AND EVERY BULB IS REPLACED IT HAS BURNED TERMINALS CAUSING LIGHT BULB TO SHORT OUT. NOT ONLY IS THIS EXPENSIVE TO REPLACE EVERY 3 TO 4 WEEKS, IT IS UNSAFE TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE WITH LOW VISIBILITY AT NIGHT. IT ALSO, MAKES MY VEHICLE LESS VISIBLE TO ONCOMING DRIVERS. IN ADDITION, IT IS CAUSING UNDO DISTRESS BEING CONSTANTLY PULLED OVER BY LAW ENFORCEMENT AND BEING EITHER FINED OR WARNED FOR DRIVING ILLEGALLY WITH ONE HEAD LAMP I HAVE SEEN ON YOU TUBE AND OTHER OUTLETS ON LINE THAT THIS IS A TYPICAL PROBLEM FOR THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF VEHICLE.
WATER POOLING INSIDE THE RACETRACK TAILLIGHTS, DECKLID AREA. LIGHTS SEEM TO NOT BE WATERPROOF OR WATERTIGHT.
MY LEFT TURNING SIGNAL KEPT GOING OUT AND COMING BACK ON. THEN I NOTICED IT WAS EFFECTING THE HEAD LIGHTS. IT SEEM LIKE SOMETHING IS LOOSE BECAUSE SOMETIMES IF I HIT A BOMP THEY START WORKING NORMAL AGAIN. NOW BOTH HEAD LIGHTS ARE OUT AND THE BULBS ARE FINE.
WATER COLLECTED IN THE REAR LIGHT BAR HOUSING CAUSING THE LIGHTS ON EACH LOWER CORNER OF THE HOUSING TO BURN OUT.
VEHICLE HAS TRANSMISSION GEAR ISSUE OR SOFTWARE PROBLEM WHEN DOWNSHIFTING. CAR IS SUPPOSEDLY LEARNING TO DRIVING HABIT BUT TRANSMISSION SHIFTING JERKS ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU ARE DECREASING SPEED BEHIND CAR IN FRONT AND AS IT IS FULLY STOPPED AND ENGAGES INTO IDLE(1) IT JERKS HARSHLY TO POINT OF ALMOST HITTING CAR IN FRONT. EVEN WHEN PUTTING CAR INTO AUTOMATIC TO PADDLE SHIFTING MODE IT JERKS JUST TO ENGAGE THE GEAR. ECO MODE IS SPORADIC, SPORT MODE IS LESS, AND MANUAL PADDLE SHIFTING IS LEAST NOTICEABLE SINCE IT IS CONTROLLED BY USER. SIMILAR ISSUES HAVE BEEN REPORTED BY MULTIPLE DODGE USERS REGARDING TRANSMISSION JOLTING EVEN FOR 2015 TO 2019 MODELS, MAYBE EVEN FURTHER BACK. VEHICLE IS GOING TO SHOP TODAY ON 2/10/20.
AIRBAG SERVICE LIGHT CONTINUES TO FLASH AND BEEP WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 DODGE DURANGO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THERE WAS GREY AND WHITE SMOKE COMING FROM THE TAIL PIPE. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE WAS RUNNING HOT WHILE THE START AND STOP WARING LIGHT AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT COOLANT WAS PUT IN THE VEHICLE TO COOL DOWN THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE COIL NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND THE HEAD GASKET WAS CRACKED AND LEAKING AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT CONTACTED REDLANDS CHRYSLER JEEP DODGE RAM (500 W REDLANDS BLVD, REDLANDS, CA 92373) WHERE THEY INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO BE REPAIRED DUE TO WARRANTY EXPIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000.
WITH IN THE PAST 8 MONTHS AND STARTING AT 38,000 MILES THE LED RACING TAIL LIGHTS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAS AN 8" INCH BURNT OUT SPOT AND NOW THE LEFT DRIVERS SIDE HAS THE SAME ISSUE.
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2017 Dodge Durango → · Every Durango year → · How the figures are calculated →