I am complaining about Tesla’s dishonest and underhanded repair center and battery. In October 2021, I was told I was receiving a new battery. When I picked up my car, I noticed it was not getting the maximum charge. Through investigation, we found a refurbished battery was given. Less than 3 months later, the refurbished battery failed. Michael Hilgado (Tesla manager) explained it was a faulty battery and that I would receive a replacement at no charge and with a new warranty because the one they placed in October was faulty. The battery was replaced. Please find below the timeline of all additional repairs and breakdowns. The Tesla App locks you out and changes prices, times, etc. without owners having access to information for verification. When paying for services, there is no review or education regarding the vehicle, warranty, etc. December 2022, ten months after the refurbished battery was replaced, the battery failed again and Tesla wants to charge another $15,000 for repairs. Please find below the timelines:
2013 Tesla Model S complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2013 record →
At random the Steering assist reduce, traction control disabled, stability, control, disable, regenerative breaking reduced. Wipers are affected during these error messages. The car is trying to get me killed!! On different days, all those errors are gone and the car drives normal. Suspect this is a software defect and can be very dangerous. Seems like something got reset after the car is turned off. All software are up to date on the car and on the phone app. Once no more errors from the car, it would drive normal until it randomly disable traction control, stability control and wipers becomes very slow, get stuck at times.
The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact stated he heard an abnormal noise and the parking brake failed to release. The contact stated that the parking brake fault warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that he reset the parking brake system but continued to experience the failure. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact towed the vehicle off the highway. The contact continued to reset the parking brake until the parking brake disengaged and he was able to drive to his residence. The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed with needing the parking brake, the rotor, and the brakes to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V260000 (Parking Brake) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 106,300.
1. 2nd row seat behind driver malfunction for years. (Mean can not insert) 2. On Dec. 5th, 2022, Drive off the Tesla model S off highway to local road and car just die. Tow to Tesla service station in Bellevue, WA. I was told drive unit was water damaged a day later. This drive unit was put in on June, 2018 to replace original drive unit, which broken in June, 2018 at 76k miles. 4.5 years later, and under 45k miles driving splashed water from road cause damage of drive unit. Unbelievable. If car died on the 520 bridge before I got off it really can be a serious car crash. This is really a safety issues.
I bought a used, but well cared for, gently used and properly maintained, 2013 Model S P85 from an individual in CT on Oct 8, 2022 with 77937 miles on it. I had the car about a month and a half of normal use when it ran well with zero issues, which included driving all the way from NY to VT over Thanksgiving at highway speeds with no issue. When back in my own town and making just a few turns to get to work on local roads on 11/28/22, I found myself losing control of the steering column and going off the road at a very low speed. The only indication that something was wrong was the traction light that came on just before I couldn't steer anymore and luckily found my way off to a soft shoulder. The front right tire was tilted in significantly and the car required a tow, and then a whole series of expensive and extensive repairs effectively replacing all components of a failed suspension system, starting with a broken control arm on that front left side. The incident left me shaken. Even when I get my car back, assuming I can find a way to pay for this (currently $4K+), I am now not very confidant in the new but insufficient suspension parts, learning that so many other cases exist and there's a class action being filed against Tesla for insufficient strength of these parts to sustain the torque of the Teslas. This car wasn't subjected to any accident or abnormal use, it was only driven as intended. The damages however were extreme and sudden. I've included the current invoice
Sept 30, 2022. Driving East bound on interstate 10 ,east of Tallahassee FL, car started flashing dash RED. Car applied brakes while going 70 mph. Car made me pull off the road because of applied braking. It would not release the brakes. I called Tesla Roadside assistance, "you have a flat tire". Attached are screenshots. I didn't have a flat tire. Had to get towed 300 miles home. Next day brakes released, drove car. I keep getting error codes everyday. Car has been in service, "nothing wrong". This a safety Hazzard, imagine in heavy traffic on a bridge.
The power steering in the vehicle is severely reduced, making steering very difficult while driving. Error message states that " Steering assist reduced - steering may require increased effort."
Last week, my vehicle could no longer charge fast and I am unable to charge past 107 miles. The following message appears: BMS_u029 / "Maximum battery charge level reduced" After researching the issue, I found that hundreds of other Tesla drivers have experienced this problem (see: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/forums/model-s-battery-charging.109/). Some were unable to charge after receiving this message, and some were capped at 30-50 miles, making the vehicles practically unusable. Tesla charges $15,000 (remanufactured battery pack) to $25,000 (new) to fix the problem. But many drivers are reporting that the defect is caused by a Tesla design, where the AC condensation drips onto the battery pack and create rust and corrosion, which then cause the batteries to malfunction.
My 2013 Tesla Model S 60 KW didn’t drive on July 2022 and I got a warning on the screen that all electrical systems are shutting down . The car had to be towed to Tesla Service . Tesla service told me the battery pack has to be replaced for 13k. I went down to Tesla Service and told them I want to see the battery pack but I was told that I couldn’t see it and was shown a piece of the corroded fuse box cover. I was told I couldn’t take a picture of it even though this was my car and own the battery pack . I was told only then that there was corrosion on the fuse box cover to the battery pack and the battery pack has to be replaced for 13k. I paid 13k and Tesla replaced the battery pack 6 weeks later. I have learned since then that many Teslas Model S year 2012-15 have this problem. The problem is that the air conditioner hose leaks on to the fuse box cover and corrodes it. Tesla knows about this problem and refuses to do anything and just says that the entire battery pack has to be replaced. This is a defect in the battery pack that fuse box is located under the air conditioner hose. I asked Tesla before paying for the replacement battery pack if this would occur with the replacement battery and was told that the replacement battery has the fuse box at the other side of the battery pack .not like the old battery. Apparently Tesla knows about this problem and redesigned the battery pack. This a defective battery pack and the car could stop driving suddenly and crash into other
The touchscreen failed and I need it replaced, but Tesla says it’s not part of what the NTSB negotiated with Tesla to do regarding these screens. 2014 model S. It’s not fair to me to have to replace what I believe is a defect. Also, I believe this car was salvaged in another state and then brought to CA and resold to me. There was a salvage record on Bumper and now it disappeared. There’s also a code on my car that reads that acceleration may be reduced and Tesla wants to replace connectors but I keep getting more and more parts added to the quote. They say this is a “preemptive” repair. They made a new firmware/software rollout which took away my Sirius XM capability and they say they know about it, but won’t reinstall my software. I believe their software/firmware has taken away attributes on my car. Tesla won’t give me the repair history to the car and I fear they are hiding all the recalls saying they’ve been done when in reality they haven’t. I’m worried about driving the car.
Car completely turned off. I took it to service and they said that my battery was dying and was out of warranty $13k to fix. Second time turned off in the freeway while my son was driving it. Now the same service will be $22k. I learned that I’m not an isolated case and Tesla is not explaining what is really wrong with it. Another client found out that the air conditioner leaks in the battery. There has been people complaining in Reddit and Tesla canceled the comments
As I was driving the vehicle home one night on the highway, the vehicle had a 13% charge and told me to pull over safely as it was shutting down. I had it towed to a charging station and the issue seemed to be resolved. Then after a couple weeks, I was driving on the highway and revived another warning, “maximum battery charge level reduced- ok to drive- schedule service.” I brought it to the nearest supercharger and it only charges to 24% charge and it charges extremely slow. I took it in for service and the told me I need to replace the high voltage battery and quoted me at $19,414. I have seen reports of investigations taking place currently in Canada for the same issue. Apparently, these older Teslas have an A/C condensor unit that dumps water onto the battery and causes battery problems. Please look into this for me as I believe a recall is warranted. Thanks so much! I also included the contact information of the dealership where my car is being serviced
The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V035000 (Back Over Prevention, Visibility, Exterior Lighting). The contact stated that the recall repair was performed twice however, the vehicle experienced an unknown computer failure. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the seats moved independently. The contact was unaware of a warning light being illuminated. The contact stated that the driver’s side seat would revert to the seat settings of the second driver independently while the vehicle was in motion. The contact had taken the vehicle to a dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that the eMMC controller needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure occurred again and the eMMC controller was replaced a second time. The failure persisted. The failure mileage was 123,864.
Battery packs on older Model S are dying WHILE driving. Puts the car non responsive and limp mode. No choice but to try and pull over. No acceleration and car dies. First occurrence warning happened, however went away upon charging the vehicle. Drove to a Tesla service center under its own power, left service center under its own power with no warning messages. Tesla is aware of the issue with older battery packs, demands 20k or to scrap your car, or they require a legal release pertaining to the battery pack. I was locked out of my vehicle and it was held without a mechanics lein. This legal release absolves them of all responsibility over the vehicle especially if you bring it to another shop. Owners have no right to repair their vehicles at shops with certified technicians. The second time this happened, luckily the vehicle was parked and died in a driveway. No warning messages prior. Tesla says it gave warnings however I was not aware. Car was towed by AAA to a service center where it currently sits. Reference to another vehicle which received international attention for exact same issue. https://www.newsweek.com/man-says-tesla-locked-him-out-until-pays-26-thousand-dollar-battery-1743016 These older cars are not safe on the road.
My car unsafe to drive, since I got 4 recalls in total. But Tesla refused to do so. What should do next step to get them to fix these 4 recalls.
Telsa MCU screen has large bubble. This is apparently a common problem. Tesla informed me there is no recall or warranty and I would have to purchase a new screen or an upgraded MCU system. The screen controls various functions of the car, including safety controls like dehumidifier.
Main LCD screen has cracked. This screen controls all aspects of the car. I was told by Tesla repair that the crack will start to discharge toxic fluid and the car will cease to function.
Electrical system power reduced warning. Vehicle shutting down.
I purchased a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+ in March of 2022 and by April of 2022 the rear left tire separated at the corner of the side wall ( side facing underneath the vehicle). By July of 2022, I had another incident with the same problem. After repairing that problem, it happened again the following week. I took it for repair and two days later, it happened again. I have come to learn from other Tesla owners that the vehicle is heavy and that the tires can not adequately support the tires which is leading to this defect. It is a safety issue to have tires blowing out on the highway when one is traveling at higher speeds.
I PULLED INTO A PARKING SPOT GOING UNDER 5MILES AND MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED AT FULL SPEED. THE CAR SUDDENLY STOPPED A FEW FEET LATER BEFORE DOING PROPERTY DAMAGE TO THE BUILDING. I HIT A TRASH CAN. THE INSURANCE COMPANY TOTALLED THE CAR. TESLA HAS THE INFORMATION ABOUT THE VEHICLE. IF I HAD BEEN THERE 2 HOURS LATER I WOULD HAVE KILLED SOMEONE WHO WAS LINED UP OUTSIDE THE STORE TO BUY A PS5. TESLA'S POSITION IS THAT I MOVED MY FOOT FROM THE BRAKE AND HIT THE ACCELARATOR AT FULL SPEED. THAT'S RIDICULOUS. NO ONE WOULD DO THAT. MY TESLA WAS ONE OF THE FIRST ONES IN DALLAS. IT IS A 2013. I LOVED THE CAR BUT NOW AM SCARED TO DEATH OF IT. I KNOW NHTSA HAS INVESTIGATED THIS. IT IS , HOWEVER, IMPROBABLE THAT THIS SAME THING HAS HAPPENED TO SO MANY DRIVERS AND IT IS DRIVER ERROR. ADDITIONALLY, THE TESLA"BLACK BOX" UPDATES EVERY 14 DAYS, SO THERE IS NO INVESTIGATION POSSIBLE AND TESLA CAN SAY "HUMAN ERROR" AS CAN NHTSA.
The recall I have on this vehicle says I am ok to drive in the app
Vehicle stops unexpectedly when driving. Put other drivers and myself at risk when vehicle suddenly stopped. The vehicle stopped on June 15 at approximately 6:57 pm EST. The vehicle stopped unexpectedly 4 times. After a period of time I was able to drive the vehicle a short distance. I was finally able to get the vehicle almost home. A few days later I was able to get the vehicle to the Tesla dealership for service. The vehicle has not been repaired yet.
2013 TESLA MODEL S. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARD TO FAILURE DRIVE TRAIN SYSTEM. THE CONSUMER STATED THE DRIVE FAILED TWICE AND WAS REPLACED. THE CONSUMER STATED THE 2ND FAILURE WS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE CONSUMER REQUESTED TO BE REIMBURSED FOR THE REPAIR COST.
The Model S door handles extend/retract. The handle mechanism involves a gear that extends the handle out and a spring of sorts that retracts the door handle. The door handle can be programmed to automatically extend when in proximity to the key fob or be programmed to extend only when the car is physically unlocked with the key fob. Over the course of ownership (9 years) I have needed at least 7-8 door handles replaced because of a failure of the door handle to extend. When the door handle does not extend, the door cannot be opened from the outside. It can be difficult to pry open the door handle if the door handle cannot extend. If the driver door handle does not function, and if the driver becomes unconscious or incapacitated, there is no easy way for an individual outside the car to open the driver door without breaking the window or climbing into the car via another door that can be opened with a functioning door handle. This represents a significant safety concern and could render the door unusable and impede the efforts of rescue personnel from intervening on behalf of the driver. These door handles seemingly have a shelf life before failure, and I have been told by Tesla that they consider door handles to be "consumables," which suggests that they, like belts, brake pads, tires, etc. simply need to be replaced after a certain time. Over 30 years of owning and driving automobiles, I have never had to replace defective door handles at all, and certainly not once every y
The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact stated upon attempting to remove the charger from the vehicle charging port, the charger remained plugged in. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and sent a certified technician who assisted in releasing the charger. The certified technician diagnosed that the charging port and the charger cord had melted and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer informed the contact that he would be responsible for the cost of repair. The contact became aware of NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V006000 (Equipment). The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 120,350.
17 inch main Screen is bubbling and leaking fluid
I have loved my 2013 Model S since I got it. However, recently I have not been thrilled that I have needed a new powertrain according to my car. I was notified of this, set up service appointments, and it got delayed weeks later due to parts not arriving. I spoke with Kevin from Santa Ana Tesla, and he assured me the car was safe to drive. 3 days later, which was yesterday, my car died suddenly without warning when I was on Santa Monica Blvd in Los Angeles. I was there until 3 AM, and didn't get home in Irvine until 4 AM. It was really unsafe in the area late at night, and I was really frustrated the car wasn't safe to drive at all. My family and friends were with me and it could have been a total disaster. Now, I wake up and see the estimate to fix my car is almost $10,000.
2019, 2020, 2021, 2022 Prior 2022 I shared with Tesla several times about my tires constant notification on the dashboard for low air. Tires were constantly being checked due to the dashboard display. I was told by Tesla it was covered, but no repair was done. When Tesla mobile or service only air was placed into the tires. Then I was told by Tesla mobile & calling 1800 when service, then when recall was performed it should fix the problem. Vehicle was not driven often due to black screen and tire issues/dashboard display. 2022 eMMC is finally replaced but now the warning on the dashboard reads 'Tire pressure monitoring system fault. Pressure sensor fault 'MAY' CLEAR NEXT DRIVE. This is negligent for Tesla to say IT MAY CLEAR NEXT DRIVE (see pic). Tesla service had the vehicle in shop several times and refused to repair/correct this SAFETY issue. I have complained and Tesla has blocked me from messaging Tesla. What if there is a blow out, low pressure, faulty system and an accident occurs causing hurt, harm, or death?
The car suddenly has a powertrain issue, but it is a widely known problem with some estimates of 66% of all early Teslas having a powertrain issue by 60k miles. Mine happened at 56k. There is clearly a defect with early Tesla powertrains, as they increased the warranty to 8 years or 50k miles. My car is now at 9 years, and because of the low mileage due to covid, they will not cover the powertrain issue of the car. The following are links proving significant issues of my car. https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1093907_tesla-model-s-drivetrain-warranty-rises-to-8-years-same-as-battery-pack https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/tesla-problems-3-major-issues-you-need-to-know-about https://www.autoevolution.com/news/early-tesla-model-s-powertrain-reliability-issues-come-into-question-in-low-volume-study-102773.html I not only have the powertrain issue, but my center screen is also screwed up. This is a massive issue in Teslas because I cannot access my HVAC controls, or any safety controls with this not working. I have contacted Tesla numerous times, I will be happy to provide email exchanges and they have not done anything to help me except want to charge me a lot of money, 9k to fix all of this!
REAR PASSANGER CONTROL ARM CRACKED AND BROKE AS I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY. TIRE BEGAN TO WOBBLE AND MAKE DRIVING UNSAFE.
Component failed: Rear subframe cracked Safety risk: Car not stable to drive at speed, drive unit can twist or flop/drop Confirmed issue w/ dealer who is also manufacturer. Root cause of failure not established, but no signs of collision. Working hypothesis is metal fatigue or stress as metal part is not built thick enough to withstand force places on it causing shearing. There are no warning lights or lamps, no symptoms prior to failure.
Appointment for the Federal Recall NHTSA Recall No.: 21V-035 - 8gb embedded multimedia card (eMMC) VIN: FP24819 APPT. DATE: 24 MAY 2022 INCIDENT: Racial Profiling, Tesla customer service told the owner that he MUST PROVIDE THE 'PINK SLIP' (NOT THE REGISTRATION SLIP) FOR THE VEHICLE IN ORDER FOR ANY REPAIR OR SERVICE WOULD BE PROVIDED OR PERMITTED. This is racism, and not the first time.
Wiper motor linkage on these vehicles break, leaving only the driver side wiper functional.
The media control unit is again failing, even after upgrading the EMMC component. Tesla is requesting I pay for a complete upgrade of the unit at $1500.
Bubbles are developing on the instrument cluster screen that may pose a safety concern by obscuring sight of important vehicle information, including speed and battery charge status. This is getting worse (more bubbles developing and becoming larger in size) by the day. This is a known problem that has been reported by other owners. Please see the following links: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/bubble-on-instrument-cluster.91537/ https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/instrument-cluster-bubble.192922/ https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaLounge/comments/h049ur/air_bubbles_appeared_in_model_s_ic_screen_anyone/
Recently my car was repaired from MCU, The vehicle does not work the air conditioning in high temperatures can reach up to 110 degrees you can drive but I disable the air conditioning compressor.
I brought in the car to be parked as part of NHTSA Recall No. 21V-035. The "fix" provided has led to my center console in the Model S to shutdown completely. I contacted Tesla to inform them that their fix as part of the recall has actually led to more problems.
I was just getting off the freeway, into a business area, and all of a sudden car stopped without any warning, with a quick "power reduced flash on the screen, unable to move at all. I was in the middle of busy area, blocking the street and cars parked on each side. The rear wheel drive locked, even in neutral position, and also tow mode. 4 people tried to push the car into a safe area without success. Had to wait for a tow truck to take the car to tesla facility. Was told there was an internal failure of the inverter and the unit its self, which would coast over 6k. Very scary and a stressful situation I suffered and it needs to be addressed of the danger.
Main screen is black, subject to current recall. Also, vehicle takes about 15mn to start. Tesla is trying to make us pay $1500 for the repair. Tesla non compliance reported on December 22 2021 to NHTSA by email and only now we are directed to file the complaint here.
Brake pedal switch is malfunctioning causing the brake lights to turn on by itself when driving 60mph+ when I am pressing only the gas pedal and then it’s causing the engine to shutoff or power reduced due to “both pedals pressed” alert in the system. This can cause an accident 1st for sending the wrong brake light signal for the drivers behind me and 2nd to shut off engine when driving at high speeds. If this happens when driving uphill can cause the car to slow abruptly and even start going backwards due to engine shut off. Also I have concern that I had to reverse press (pull back) the brake pedal with my left foot in the middle of the highway to get rid of the alert while I was pressing the gas pedal with my right foot and then to regain gas power to continue to speed. Again, this is dangerous action that can cause an accident.
Tesla, Please assist me in the following: 1. I have LIFE Time charging, explain the $305.00 fee for a brand new battery Tesla charged/bill me and installed. 2. Tesla has a suggested billing of $100.00 to put air into a (1) tire. Or $100.00 to bring all tires to federal standards. Basically, no tire repair just air into tires. Please explain the charge. 3. Tesla called me at 9:21 A.M. inform me that my 27 March appointment was canceled (I had no say so). Then, I was instructed to have Tesla Roadside Assistance to tow my vehicle to your kearny mesa service station for $386.00 (Aaron - 1-877-798-3752). 4. I was instructed that Tesla Roadside assistance memberships was not an option to me. 5. I have an appointment but was told parts for my vehicle might be available or might not be available for a 2021 Federal Recall, but today date is 22 March 2022. I've waited 1 year not months for Tesla to contact me when my vehicle parts were available in regards to the recall. It feels like a scam: $630.00 Tesla $386.00 Tesla Roadside Assistance. 6. Also, an Uber credit would be grant. Please explain why my vehicle that has an appointment for air in four tires, supercharged, recall and software update, is not a priority when I have an appointment. 7. In 2021, I was made to believe and instructed to purchase a 12 volt battery to repair Recall. 8. In 2022, Tesla again instructed me that my brand new battery to be replaced
Part II AFTER I EMAILED TESLA KEARNEY MESA SERVICE STATION, WITH MY CONCERN ABOUT THEIR BILLING FOR THE RECALL AND CUSTOMER SERVICE; I WAS SENT A NEW BILLING. MIND YOU, ALL MY ISSUES ARE RELATED TO THE RECALL AND TESLA SCHEMES AND FALSEHOODS. SEE ATTACHED
Drive Unit failed while driving. Car was not able to accellerate while coming off freeway. Driver heard thump then buzzing sound then couldn't accelerate. Driver drifted car to side of the road and it would not drive further.
On September 30th, 2021 I brought my car in to Tesla Carlsbad for an issue with the navigation. The Tesla rep also included the eMMC recall. In doing so my car is not slower to wake up and drive when I get in, the center display works intermittently which is a safety issue that the back up camera is disabled. Additionally as a result my walk away locking was disabled and and I had items stolen in the middle of the night (Feb 10, 2022). When brought to Tesla's attention they suggested a $1500-2000 fix to upgrade the chip from MCU1 to MCU2. Not only is this a safety issue but its fraud.
The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V035000 (Back Over Prevention, Visibility, Exterior Lighting) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was contacted and it was confirmed that parts were not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
The following recall is active on my 2013 Tesla Model S: NHTSA Recall Number21V035. Yesterday I had a booked date to fix this recall on my car and other small items. The Tesla dealership completely refused to do this work! They sttated that my vehicle was too old and that the warranty period had expired. They are completely wrong, of course, since the recall has nothing to do with the warranty nor the age of the car. Please help! Greetings, Franz
Mobile charger will not charge. Green light but will not charge. Failure may leave driver stranded in a remote location without ability to charge and parasitic drain will permanently damage the battery pack and vehicle
There is a current recall on my Tesla. It is my 3rd time returning the car after Tesla performed a recall with eMMC . My screen continues to go black and signal won’t work. I have to pull over and reset my car. Only way to resolve the issue is an MCU2 upgrade that I don’t want to pay. I need help please. It happens every other day. I have numerous of photos with date and time as proof.
"Center Display Unavailabe" message on dashboard. The center display screen that is critical for operating the vehicle controls and camera etc. was blank.
Screen went totally blank and I can’t control anything. No access to heating, backup camera, navigation, etc.
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2013 Tesla Model S → · Every Model S year → · How the figures are calculated →