I RECEIVED A SMALL CHIP FROM A ROCK THAT THEN SPREAD TO ABOUT AN 8 INCH CRACK. IT'S BEEN THAT WAY WITH NO CHANGE FOR MONTHS. THEN THIS MORNING WE DROPPED TO 26 DEGREES AND WHEN I TURNED ON THE DEFROSTER FOR THE WINDSHIELD THE CRACK SHOT ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD. I HADN'T EVEN MOVED THE CAR YET. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY SAFELITE THAT THIS WINDSHIELD WAS FAULTY AND SUBARU SHOULD REPLACE IT UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE SUBARU HERE IN MISSOULA, MT IS REFUSING TO DO SO. I SEE THAT CA HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND THEY SUED SUBARU. DO I HAVE TO DO THAT TOO TO GET THEM TO HELP ME?
2016 Subaru Outback complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2016 record →
KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. SENSOR IN STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. MUST "SLAM" THE SHIFTER INTO PARK IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY.
ABOUT ONCE A WEEK FOR AT LEAST THE PAST YEAR, THE STARLINK SCREEN FREEZES IN EITHER A BLANK SCREEN OR THE SCREEN GIVING CHOICES BETWEEN CD, FM, ETC. MUSIC WILL PLAY BUT NONE OF THE BUTTONS WILL WORK. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT IF I HOLD DOWN THE ON/OFF BUTTON FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO, IT WILL BEEP AND GO BACK TO NORMAL. IT HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST TURNED ON AND IS STATIONARY.
THE FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT ALWAYS FULLY CLOSE. SOMETIMES WHEN I'M CLOSING IT, THE WINDOW GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN GOES DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY AND STAYS THERE. THE ONLY WAY I AM ABLE TO GET IT MOSTLY CLOSED IS WHEN I AM AT A STOP, I HAVE ONE HAND ON THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND THE OTHER ON THE WINDOW CLOSE BUTTON. I HOLD DOWN THE CLOSE BUTTON UNTIL THE WINDOW IS ALMOST ALL OF THE WAY UP AND THEN HIT THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON SO THAT THE WINDOW REMAINS SHUT MOST OF THE WAY. BY THE TIME I RESTART THE CAR, I UNLOCK THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND AM ABLE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW NORMALLY. THE WINDOW NOT CLOSING OCCURS AT A STOP OR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING.
KEY STUCK IN IGNITION UPON PARKING THE CAR. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY (IN PARKING POSITION).
I REGULARLY CANNOT REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHILE IN PARK. THE IGNITION DOES NOT SEEM TO RECOGNIZE THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK, SO I HAVE TO RESTART CAR, SHIFT DO DRIVE, RESHIFT TO PARK AND TRY TO REMOVE KEY MULTIPLE TIMES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING CONSISTENTLY AND IS WORST WHEN PARKED ON A HILL.
DRIVING AT AROUND 40 MILES PER HOUR AND SUDDENLY LOST CONTROL OF THE STEERING WHEEL. THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME VERY LOOSE AND UNRESPONSIVE. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP RIGHT AWAY AND THEY COULDN'T FIGURE OUT ANYTHING.
ABOUT A WEEK A GO I NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I CAN NOT ATTRIBUTE IT TO A ROCK OUR OTHER ROAD DEBRIS. CLOSE INSPECTION SHOWS A VERY SMALL CHIP DIRECTLY UNDER THE WIPER BLADE, WHICH WOULD PROTECT THE WINDSHIELD FROM A ROCK ETC. THE CRACK EXTENDS VERTICALLY DOWN UNDER THE PLASTIC TRIM AND UP ALMOST TO THE WIPER BLADE SWEEP LIMIT. THIS IS THE SECOND WINDSHIELD IN MY VEHICLE. IN 2017 I THOUGHT I GET HIT BY A ROCK. A LARGE CHIP APPEARED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND A CRACK IMMEDIATELY APPEARED. I PAID FOR A REPAIR BY THE DEALER. IT WAS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY OR INSURANCE. I AM NOW WONDERING IF THE FIRST WINDSHIELD WAS HIT BY A ROCK OR NOT. REGARDLESS, I CANT BELIEVE I WILL BE ON THIRD WINDSHIELD IN A VEHICLE I HAVE NOT YET HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS.
WHILE STATIONARY, MY DAUGHTER ATTEMPTED TO EXIT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. DISCOVERED THAT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE DOOR CHILD SAFETY LOCK SWITCH ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE DOOR WAS ENGAGED. TRIED TO DISENGAGE THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK; HOWEVER, THE SWITCH WAS SEIZED IN THE ENGAGED POSITION. CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. TOOK IT TO THE ONLY SUBARU DEALER IN HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA. THOUGH THE VEHICLE HAD LESS THAN 36,000 MILES AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, THEY SAID IT WAS A CORROSION ISSUE CAUSED BY LACK OF USE; THEREFORE, IT WAS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY. WE HAVE NEVER USED THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK.
KEY INTERMITTENTLY DOES NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PARKED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED BY SUBARU. THIS CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. WHY HAS A RECALL NOT BEEN ISSUED FOR THIS?
MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, WHILE IN PARK. STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT LOCK. TOOK TO THE DEALER. I KNOW THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH SOME OF THE FORRESTERS AND I LOOKED ONLINE APPARENTLY OTHER 2016 & 2017 MODEL SUBARUS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE A SERVICE BULLETIN 16 112 18R, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VEHICLE.
CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE IS OFF AND CAN NOT GET KEY OUT OF IGNITION. I THEN HAVE TO START CAR AND MOVE VEHICLE AND HOPES THAT WHEN I STOP CAR AGAIN I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. THIS IS A SAFEY ISSUE AS I CAN NOT LEAVE CAR WITH KEY IN IGNITION IN PUBLIC PLACE. IF I DO AT THE HOUSE, THEN THE CAR THEN DRAINS THE BATTERY AND CAR DIES.CAR IS ONLY 3 YEAR OLD!!! I'M NOT TO HAPPY WITH THIS. NEEDS TO BE FIX, THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!!!!! BUT I DON'T SEE ONE YET! I READ OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.
SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 4DR 2.5I - VEHICLE BEGAN MAKING LOUD NOISE WHEN DRIVING IN THE HIGHWAY. NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF VEHICLE. TOOK TO SUBARU DEALER IN CHANDLER AZ AND DEALER CHANGED RIGHT-REAR WHEEL HUB BEARING. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 67 K MILES.
WOBBLING AND SHAKING OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION (WHEN ACCELERATING). HAPPENS ON STREET AND ON HIGHWAY. SERVICE ADVISOR RECOMMENDED TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT. PLEASE SEE ATTACHED EXTENDED WARRANTY OFFER FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS A RESULT OF PREVIOUS COMPLAINTS.
ON MY WAY TO WORK I HEARD A LOUD POP! LIKE A ROCK HIT MY WINDSHIELD. NEVER SAW A PIT OR ANY EVIDENCE. PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE THERE WAS A CRACK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF PASSENGER SIDE UP THE WINDOW. NOW THE CRACK HAS SPREAD OUT LIKE NOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN.
I'VE ONLY RECENTLY LEARNED OF THE SPONTANEOUS WINDSHIELD CRACKING ISSUE THAT IS IN LITIGATION. THIS HAPPENED TO ME. I WAS STOPPED, WAITING AT A LIGHT NEAR THE INTERSECTION OF WASHINGTON AND THE ENTRANCE TO I-70 IN DENVER. SUDDENLY, THE WINDSHIELD LOUDLY POPPED AND A LARGE CRACK APPEARED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WHICH HAS SINCE PROGRESSED IN MANY DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS. I SPOKE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. I'VE NOT YET HAD IT REPLACED AS I'D LEARNED OF THIS LAWSUIT, BUT NO DEFINITIVE PROGRESS HAS BEEN MADE, I'M REPORTING IT HERE. I DO NOT HAVE A PICTURE, BUT WILL UPDATE THIS POST LATER, IF POSSIBLE.
DEAD BATTERY AT 38,000 MILES. NO INDICATOR LIGHTS OF ANY EXISTING PROBLEM. LEFT STRANDED AND OUT $150 FOR NEW BATTERY. SAW MANY FORUMS RELATED TO THIS SAME PROBLEM. SUBARU OWES IT TO THE CAR OWNERS TO ADMIT AND FIX AND NO CHARGE THIS PROBLEM. DROVE AT LUNCH TIME AND WHEN I WAS RETURNING BACK TO WORK IT WOULD NOT START. CAR WAS PARKED IN PARKING LOT. NOTHING LEFT ON. WHEN TURNING IGNITION ON THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS ALL CAME ON AS WELL AS RADIO AND WINDOWS WORKED UP AND DOWN BUT NO START. HAD CO-WORKER COME AND JUMP START AND IT STARTED RIGHT AWAY.
INTERMITTENT PROBLEM WHERE THE KEY COULD NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION MAKING IT UNSAFE TO LEAVE THE CAR IN A PUBLIC AREA. (THE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). REQUIRED REPLACEMENT OF THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THE REPAIR NOTES INDICATED THERE IS A RELATED TSB, SO THE DEFECT IS KNOWN, BUT NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED.
SOMETIMES THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PUT IN PARK. FREEZES UP. WON'T ALLOW POWER LIFT GATE TO OPEN EITHER. SEEMS TO BE RELATED TO TSB 16 112 18R, WHICH IN PRACTICE SEEMS DANGEROUS, AS HAVING TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION EVEN FOR A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME WITH KIDS IS RISKY. THIS NEEDS TO BE A SAFETY RECALL.
KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN PUT INTO PARK AND CAN'T TAKE KEY OUT OF IGNITION AFTER TURNING CAR OFF.
WHEN I STOP MY 2016 OUTBACK AFTER DRIVING IT MY KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. IT DOES THIS INTERMITTENTLY AND IS ACTING LIKE I AM NOT PUTTING THE CAR ALL THE WAY IN PARK. I AM FORCED TO LEAVE MY KEY IN THE IGNITION AT TIMES AND THE CAR WILL BE VERY EASY TO STEAL. AFTER READING THE SUBARU FORUMS IT APPEARS TO BE THE SHIFTER LINKAGE FAILING AND NOT GOING INTO PARK ALL THE WAY. SOME DEALERS STARTED TO REPLACE THE KEY SWITCH AT FIRST THEN THEY REALIZED IT WAS THE SHIFTER LINKAGE ASSEMBLY ITSELF. IT SEEMS TO NEED REPLACING AND CAN'T BE ADJUSTED. SUBARU KNOWS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AS I JUST TALKED TO SUBARU OF AMERICA TO SEE IF THEY HAVE RECALLED IT YET.
DRIVER IS UNABLE TO TURN KEY BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION AND REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. CAR (SUBARU OUTBACK 2016) WAS PLACED IN PARK PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE. DRIVER MUST FORCEFULLY MOVE STICK TO PARKED POSITION, FIRMLY PUSH KEY IN, AND TURN SWIFTLY TO REMOVE KEY. DRIVER MAY HAVE TO ATTEMPT THIS MANEUVER FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVING KEY. FAULTY COMPONENT IS UNKNOWN BUT IS OFTEN THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH BASED ON TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R. AT TIME OF WRITING THIS COMPLAINT, THE DRIVER HAS EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 2 WEEKS.
UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. VEHICLE IS PUT INTO PARK, KEY IS TURNED OFF, KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY AND STOPS AT THE ACCESSORY POINT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST MONTH, SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE. MOVE THE SHIFTER BACK AND FORTH FROM PARK INTO GEAR AND BACK INTO PARK UNTIL THE KEY RELEASES.
ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS WHILE PARKED FOR ONLY A FEW HOURS. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE HAS DROPPED TO A LEVEL THAT REQUIRED THE VEHICLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE VEHICLE HAS NO AFTERMARKET DEVICES.
THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT BATTERY FOR THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN INSUFFICIENT TO MEET THE DEMANDS THAT THE "BELLS AND WHISTLES" PUT ON THE RESERVE POWER IN THE BATTERY. AS SUCH, THIS PUTS THE DRIVER AT RISK THAT THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START THE VEHICLE. EITHER STANDARDS SHOULD BE ESTABLISHED FOR RESERVE BATTERY CAPACITY, BASED ON ELECTRICAL DEMAND, OR BETTER INDICATION PROVIDED ON AVAILABLE CHARGE. I.E., MUCH LIKE THAT PROVIDED BY OTHER DEVICES THAT HAVE AN INDICATION OF REMAINING BATTERY CHARGE. THIS VULNERABILITY WAS SHARED WITH SUBARU SOON AFTER I PURCHASED THE CAR, NEW, AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BOTH SUBARU AND THEIR DEALERSHIP ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. I SHOULD HAVE UPGRADED THE ORIGINAL BATTERY ON MY OWN FROM THE START, BUT ONLY BECAME AWARE OF THE DEFICIENCY OF THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT UNTIL RECENTLY. THE FACT THAT SUBARU WOULD ALLOW ANY OPERATOR TO DRIVE ONE OF THEIR CARS UNDER THESE CIRCUMSTANCES IS REPREHENSIBLE, LET ALONE SOMEONE THAT THEY SAY IS A "VALUED AND APPRECIATED CUSTOMER."
I CANNOT REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION OR OPEN THE REAR HATCH WHEN IN PARK. THE NEUTRAL SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEM DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. THE FRONT CONSOLE SHOWS THE CAR IN PARK AND THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. HOWEVER THE KEY IS STUCK. I HAVE TO MOVE THE SELECTOR IN AND OUT OF PARK USING RANDOM PATTERNS BEFORE THE SENSOR/SWITCH RECOGNIZES THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. STARTED AT 40K MILES. MY SON FELT THAT HE HAD TO RESTART THE CAR TO CLEAR THE ISSUE AND DRAINED THE BATTERY, LEAVING HIM STRANDED.
I HAVING PROBLEM GETTING MY KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION FROM MY SUBURU OUTBACK 2016, ALMOST EVERYTIME I STOPPED AN ENGINE THIS PROBLEM OCCUR.
A CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY APPEARED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY WITH NO OTHER VEHICLES AROUND. THE CRACK WAS 8" LONG AND STARTED NEAR THE BOTTOM CORNER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. AFTER PARKING IT OVERNIGHT, THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS HALF THE WINDSHIELD. WHEN WE HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED, SAFELITE COULD NOT FIND ANY EVIDENCE OF A CAUSE, NO CHIPS OR EVIDENCE OF A ROCK HITTING IT. EVEN WITH THE EXTENDED "GOLD" WARRANTY, SUBARU WOULD NOT COVER THE REPLACEMENT.
PROBLEM IN SHIFTER GATE SO THAT KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION AFTER PLACING IN PARK AND TURNING OFF THE ENGINE.
PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY DRAINS AND DOES NOT ALLOW PROPER FUNCTIONING OF REAR HATCH. REPLACED BATTERY AFTER 2 YEARS. HAVING PROBLEM WITH NEW BATTER AFTER ONLY 2 MONTHS. VEHICLE HAS PARASITIC DRAIN THAT REDUCES THE BATTERY CHARGE OVER TIME.
CAR STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION. IT WAS TRULY FRIGHTENING BECAUSE THE BABY WAS IN THE CAR AND IT WAS DURING MORNING COMMUTE RUSH HOURS WHEN EVERYONE IS RUSHING. THE CAR IS RELATIVELY NEW WITH 35K MILES AND AM THE ONLY OWNER OF THE VEHICLE. WAS AT AN INTERSECTION AND WAITING FOR MY TURN TO MAKE A LEFT. THE CAR WAS IN 'DRIVE' AND I HAD MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE GREEN LEFT TURN ARROW CAME, I PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. I MOVED FROM 'DRIVE' TO 'PARK' AND BACK TO 'DRIVE' AND PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I MOVED FROM 'DRIVE' TO 'PARK' AND TURNED OFF THE CAR ENGINE. THEN I RESTARTED THE CAR AND MOVED FROM 'PARK' TO 'DRIVE' AND PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. I BEGAN PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL HEAVY TRYING TO AT LEAST MAYBE MOVE TO SAFETY AND ALL OF SUDDEN THE CAR FELT VERY SLUGGISH BUT IT MOVED. I UNDERSTAND THERE IS AN EXTENDED WARRANTY OFFERED BY SUBARU REGARDING THE TRANSMISSION, BUT WHAT HAPPENED TO ME WAS DANGEROUS TO MYSELF, MY FAMILY AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. THIS REQUIRES FURTHER INVESTIGATION AS TO NOT PUT ANY PEOPLE'S LIFE AT UNNECESSARY RISKS.
SHIFTER ASSEMBLY PROBLEM. LESS THAN 50000 MILES ON CAR AND CAR WON'T SHIFT INTO PARK! READING OTHER COMPLAINTS OF SAME PROBLEM SEEMS LIKE IT'S A DEFAULT ASSEMBLY! *TR
IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND WON'T COME OUT. EVEN AFTER TRYING TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHICH ISN'T LOCKED. THIS HAPPENS WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF.
CAR WON'T START THE NEXT MORNING EVEN AFTER CHARGING FOR 30 MIN VIA CONTINUOUS DRIVING/PARASITIC DRAIN ON BATTERY
REPEATED PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY TESTS FINE BY AUTOZONE AND DEALER, BUT CAR WILL DIE OVER A FEW HOURS OR A FEW DAYS. SOMETIMES EVEN 10 MINUTES. APPARENTLY ISSUE WITH MAKE/MODEL AS MANY COMPLAINTS.
WHILE TRYING TO COME OUT OF DRIVE WAY ONTO THE STREET, I TRIED TO STOP BY PRESSING THE BRAKES, BUT THE VEHICLE HAS ACCELERATED
COMING TO A STOP AT CURBSIDE. APPLYING LIGHT PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE. VEHICLE STARTED TO PULL FORWARD. WAS ABLE TO STOP BY INCREASING PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE. ENGINE SPEED INCREASED QUICKLY AFTER I SHIFTED TO PARK. ENGINE SOUND WAS LOUD ENOUGH TO BE NOTICED BY PEOPLE IN THE AREA. I RESPONDED BY TURNING OFF THE ENGINE. CRUISE CONTROL WAS ENABLED AT THE TIME.
THIS IS THE FOURTH WINDSHIELD TO CRACK ON US IN AN OUTBACK. THE FIRST TWO WINDSHIELDS CRACKED IN A 2015 OUTBACK. SUBARU HAD TO BUY BACK THAT CAR DUE TO AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED WINDSHIELD THAT FLOODED THE CAR. THEY GAVE US 2016 OUTBACK IN ITS PLACE. GUESS WHAT, THE 2016 OUTBACK WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE. THE FIRST CRACK WAS SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER ITS PURCHASE AND OCCURRED SPONTANEOUSLY WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED A PEBBLE HIT BECAUSE THEY COULD SEE A CHIP. THIS IS DESPITE THE FACT THAT A PEBBLE NEVER TOUCHED THE CAR. OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. SUBARU REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. WELL, THE NEW WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED AGAIN. THEY ARE ALSO CLAIMING IT IS DUE TO A PEBBLE AND ARE REFUSING TO REPLACE IT THIS TIME. THEY ARE CLAIMING IT IS NOT IN THE LOCATION THAT THEIR MEMO STATES IS PART OF THE EXTENDED WINDOW WARRANTY. THERE ARE MAJOR ISSUES WITH THE WINDSHIELDS ON THE 2015 AND 2016 OUTBACKS. FOUR CRACKED WINDSHIELDS FROM WHAT THEY CLAIM ARE "PEBBLES" IS WRONG. ESPECIALLY WHEN TWO OF THE CRACKS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WASN'T EVEN MOVING AND WAS PARKED. SUBARU KNOWS THERE ARE PROBLEMS AND THEY ONLY EXTENDED THE WINDSHIELD WARRANTY IF THE CRACK IS THROUGH THE AREA OF THE BASE OF THE WINDOW. BUT THEY ARE WELL AWARE THAT THE CRACKS ARE HAPPENING IN OTHER PLACES AND ARE REFUSING TO RECTIFY THE SITUATION. THERE ARE SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUES NOT BEING ADDRESSED. AND THE SOLUTION IS TO GET THE COSTUMER TO JUST CONTINUE TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELDS AT THEIR
WITH CAR STATIONARY, ENGINE OFF AND CAR IN PARK, KEYED IGNITION WILL NOT TURN TO LOCK POSITION OR RELEASE KEY. THIS HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY FOR TWO WEEKS, OFTEN MORE THAN ONCE A DAY, FROM 3/10/2019 AND CONTINUING THROUGH YESTERDAY, THE LAST TIME THE CAR WAS DRIVEN.
CAR WAS STATIONARY AND HAD NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN SEVERAL HOURS AND THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED FROM THE TOP CENTER DOWN ABOUT SIX INCHES ACROSS BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER FIELD OF VIEW. THERE WAS NO PREVIOUS DAMAGE, MAJOR OR MINOR, FROM THE POINT WHERE THE CRACK APPEARED TO START FROM.
PLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE ONTO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN AT SUBARU OF AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE. 2016 OUTBACK 3.6R BULLETIN NUMBER: 12-192-15R; NHTSA ID:10093903; REVISED: 11/19/15 UPDATE BULLETIN NUMBER: 12-192-15R; NHTSA ID:10093903; REVISED: 03/06/17 ISSUE: SPONTANEOUS CRACKED WINDSHIELD HELLO, I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF MENTIONED VEHICLE, 2016 OUTBACK 3.6R EQUIPPED WITH THE ALL-WEATHER PACKAGE AND EYESIGHT. ON FEBRUARY 28, 2019 A SMALL VISIBLE RUNNING CRACK ONE INCH IN LENGTH APPEARED JUST IN FRONT OF THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT WINDSHIELD. WITH INSPECTION THE CRACK ACTUALLY STARTED AT THE LOWER PORTION OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IN THE DEICER/DEFROSTER AREA. SINCE THEN THE CRACKS HAVE INCREASED DAILY IN LENGTH AND IN NUMBER. ONE RUNNING CRACK HAS NOW SPREAD ACROSS THE ENTIRE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE. ANOTHER VISIBLE RUNNING CRACK ONE INCH IN LENGTH NOW HEADING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF FRONT WINDSHIELD. IT TOO ORIGINATES FROM THE LOWER PORTION OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IN THE DEICER/DEFROSTER AREA. UNDER VERY CLOSE PHOTO INSPECTION AT THE JUNCTIONS OF THESE MERGING CRACKS CHIPPING IS OCCURRING CAUSING ADDITIONAL SPIDERING CRACKS. I DID CONTACT MY SUBARU DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT ON MARCH 5, 2019.A SALESPERSON FILLED OUT AND I SIGNED AN INFORMATION FORM FOR REPORTING THIS ISSUE TO SUBARU AMERICA. I WAS NOT OFFERED AND DID NOT RECEIVE A COPY. HAVE NOT HEARD BACK FROM THEM YET. THIS ISSUE AND REPAIR MENTIONED IN TSB ID: 12-192
FEBRUARY 28, 2019. CRACKING FRONT WINDSHIELD AT THE DE-ICER / DEFROSTER AREA. THIS WAS NOT FROM ROADWAY ROCK CHIPPING. VEHICLE WAS ON DRIVEWAY WARMING UP AND DEFROSTING. AFTER, NOW FIVE DAYS THE CRACK HAS SPREAD COMPLETELY ACROSS THE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD.
WHEN STOPPED, UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION (UNABLE TO MOVE KEY FROM ACC POSITION TO LOCK POSITION SUCH THAT KEY REMAINS IN IGNITION). SAFETY CONCERN: UNACCOMPANIED CHILD COULD START VEHICLE. UNLOCKED VEHICLE COULD BE STOLEN WITH KEYS IN IGNITION.
I HAD AN ACCIDENT @ 5PM-ENTERING A BUSY ROAD FROM A DRIVEWAY-HIT THE SIDE DOOR OF A CAR RACING LEFTTORIGHT IN FRONT OF ME. MY FAULT OF COURSE. I HEARD NO BEEP WARNING FROM THE SO-CALLED COLLISION MITIGATION SYSEM (?), NOR DID I FEEL ANY BRAKING. SUBSEQUENTLY I TESTED THIS FEATURE IN MY DRIVEWAY WHERE I SLOWLY DROVE THE CAR FORWARD TOWARD MY LARGE GARAGE, I WOULD HAVE HIT THE GARAGE-NO BEEP-NO BRAKING. THEN, IN A SNOW STORM, I HAD TO BRAKE SOASTO NOT HIT A LARGE TRUCK SKIDDING IN FRONT OF ME. I MISSED HITTING HIM BY INCHES. AGAIN, I HEARD NO BEEP AND FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER TESTED THIS FEATURE ON MY CAR BY LETTING IT GO TOWARDS BRUSHES IN A CARWASH, I HEARD BEEP WARNING, BUT AGAIN FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER SAID SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY. AND SO-I CONCLUDE THAT WHENEVER I HEAR ANY KIND OF WARNING BEEO, I SHOULD MANUALLY AND QUICKLY 'HIT THE BRAKES', NO MATTER WHAT. AFTER ALL, I HAVE TO KEEP MY EYES ON THE ROAD FOR GOD'S SAKE. I AM NOT HAPPY.
PROBLEM: 360 CCA BATTERIES INSTALLED IN NEW CARS ARE NOT ENOUGH AND THEY CAUSE PROBLEMS. MY FIRST INDICATION WAS A YEAR AGO WHEN I WENT TO THE STORE, WAS IN THERE 10-15 MINUTES, AND WHEN I CAME OUT THE CAR DID NOT START. A FRIEND CAME 2 HOURS LATER TO JUMP IT BUT TRIED IT FIRST AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP. SECOND PROBLEM WAS ON A TRIP TO DC IN NOVEMBER '18. NOR'EASTER CAME THROUGH AND WE GOT STUCK ON THE INTERSTATE IN THE MOUNTAINS FOR A FEW HOURS. CAR WAS STOPPED, NOT RUNNING. WENT TO GET DINNER THEN TO CAR TO GO ON AGAIN. WOULD NOT START. WERE STRANDED FOR 3 MORE HOURS, AS THE WEATHER AND MOUNTAIN DRIVE MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO GET HELP. WE WERE EVENTUALLY ABLE TO FIND SOMEONE TO JUMP IT. OVER NEXT FEW MONTHS, ODD THINGS HAPPENED LIKE THE RADIO NOT WORKING SPORATICALLY, SLOW STARTS, AND THE KEY NOT COMING OUT OF IGNITION OCCASIONALLY. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, THEY RECOMMEND A $853 NEW SHIFT MECHANISM, BUT IN THE DISCUSSION HE HAPPENED TO MENTION THE 360CCA BATTERY NOT BEING ENOUGH FOR THE CAR. MY SUSPICIONS TELL ME TO GET A NEW BATTERY AND SEE HOW THINGS GO. GOT BATTERY- 640CCA, A WEEK AGO AND NO PROBLEMS AT ALL NOW. IT'S NOT RIGHT THAT THE DEALERS KNOW ABOUT THE BATTERY NOT BEING ENOUGH, AND WHEN YOU BRING THE CAR IN THEY TRY TO GET YOU TO PAY FOR LARGE DOLLAR FIX-IT'S AND AVOID TALKING ABOUT THE BATTERY ISSUE. I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY YEARS AND MAKES OF SUBARUS HAVE THESE, BUT PROB AT LEAST A FEW YEARS. THEY NEED TO RECALL AND PUT IN BETTER BATTERY, AT LEAST A $500CCA. I HAVE READ CA
KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IT TURNED OFF AND WILL NOT COME OUT. DRIVER HAS TO SLAM THE GEAR SHIFT INTO PARK TO GET IT TO RELEASE MULTIPLE TIMES. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM BASED ON INTERNET RESEARCH
THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DOES NOT ENGAGE OFTEN CAUSING A JERKING MOTION OF THE CAR WHICH IS UNDIAGNOSED FOR THE PAST 3 YEARS. SUBARU EXTENDED THE TRANSMISSION WARRANTY FOR ONE YEAR. I WANT IT FIXED. MY WIFE AND I HAVE COMPLAINED SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW (2016 MODEL)
ON TWO OCCASIONS WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 65-75 MPH WITH NO WARNING THE GAS PEDAL STOPPED RESPONDING TO INPUTS. WHILE MANEUVERING THE VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD THROUGH TRAFFIC THE ENGINE SHUTOFF. ON ONE OCCASION I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AND ON THE SECOND OCCASION IT WOULD NOT RESTART. AFTER TOWING THE VEHICLE TO A REPAIR SHOP THE VEHICLE STARTED UP AND RAN WITH NO ISSUES. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS WERE EVER DISPLAYED. THE BATTERY WAS WORKING FINE AND FULLY CHARGED. THE CAR IS IN PERFECT MECHANICAL SHAPE WITH ALL REGULAR SERVICE PERFORMED. THE GAS REMAINING AT TIME OF INCIDENT WAS APPROXIMATELY 1/4 TANK FULL. THE CAUSE IS UNKNOWN TO ME.
OUR WINDSHIELD HAS HAD 3 CHIPS/CRACKS IN IT SINCE NEW. THE FIRST ONE WAS A CHIP THAT WAS REPAIRED BY SAFELIGHT. THE SECOND WAS A CRACK/CHIP WHERE THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED BY SAFELIGHT. BOTH OF THESE HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS ON-HIGHWAY. BOTH WERE IN DIFFERENT SPOTS, BUT WERE LOCATED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. THE THIRD ONE WAS A LARGE CRACK ON THE DRIVER SIDE WE NOTICED YESTERDAY (12/26/18) WITH NO APPARENT CHIP ASSOCIATED. WE'RE NOT SURE IF THIS HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS MOVING OR STATIONARY. DATES FOR THE INITIAL CRACKS ARE ESTIMATES, BUT FIRST ONE WE ESTIMATE TO BE 8/2017. THE SECOND ONE WHERE THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED IS ESTIMATED MAY 2018. WE NOTICED OTHERS WERE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES AFTER DOING A SEARCH 12/26/18. IT ALSO APPEARS THAT SUBARU HAD ACKNOWLEDGED THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH SOME 2015 AND 2016 MODELS, BUT OUR VEHICLE VIN DID NOT SHOW UP WHEN DOING A SEARCH.
ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED AUTOMATICALLY DUE TO SWITCH ASSEMBLY MODULE FAILURE WHILE CAR WAS IN MOTION AT BETWEEN 25-30MPH. CAR STOPPED INSTANTLY, PASSENGERS THROWN FORWARD, ALL-POWER DIED. CARS IN REAR STOPPED SHORT. FAILED TO RESTART AFTER INITIAL ATTEMPTS (10 MIN). WEATHER CLEAR, ABOUT 45 DEGREES F. 2.5 YEAR OLD CAR, ~40,000 MILES.
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2016 Subaru Outback → · Every Outback year → · How the figures are calculated →