2007 Mini Cooper S complaints

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER S. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CLUTCH WOULD NOT ENGAGE OR SHIFT INTO FIRST, SECOND OR ANY OTHER GEAR. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED WITHIN TWO WEEKS AND THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT CALLED THE MANUFACTURER WHO STATED THAT THEY COULD NOT OFFER ASSISTANCE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 40,000. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000.

DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE, I APPROACH MY EXIT AND AS I COME TO A STOP ON THE EXIT RAMP, THE CAR STALLS AND DIES. CAR WILL NOT RESTART. VEHICLE IS TOWED TO THE CLOSEST DEALERSHIP. AFTER INSPECTION AT THE DEALERSHIP, I AM TOLD THE VACUUM PUMP HAS FAILED CAUSING CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE. SUGGESTED REPAIR IS ENGINE REPLACEMENT. *TR

THE WALL NEXT TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL IS EXTREMELY HOT TO THE POINT IT CAN BURN YOUR FOOT. THIS IS CAUSED BY THE AC HEATER COMPONENTS WHEN DRIVING AND RUNNING THE AIR CONDITIONER. THE MINI COOPER DEALER DOES NOT HAVE A FIX. THE ONLY FIX THEY HAD WAS A TWO INCH INSULATED TUBE FOR THE COIL PIPE. THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM AND THEY HAVE NO OTHER SOLUTION. I HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BURN MYSELF. *TR

AFTER DRIVING MY 2007 MINI COPPER S, FOR SEVERAL MINUTES THE "BRAKE" AND DSC WARNING ICONS ILLUMINATE YELLOW. ONCE ILLUMINATED THE SIGNAL CANCEL FUNCTION STOPS WORKING AND WIPERS TURN ON AUTONOMOUSLY WHEN ENGINE IS STOPPED. *TR

UPON STARTING MY ENGINE EVERY MORNING THERE IS A LARGE CLATTERING NOISE COMING FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. IT SEEMS TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER AS THE PART DOES NOT GET ENOUGH OIL IN IT AS IT DRAINS OUT AFTER SITTING FOR A FEW HOURS. IF THE PART IS NOT REPLACED OR FIXED THE TIMING CHAIN WILL EVENTUALLY BREAK AND RUIN MY ENGINE. MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THIS IS A FACTORY ISSUE THAT BMW/MINI REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE OR FIX. *TR

R56 MCS MINI 2007 - BOUGHT USED IN SEPT 09 HAD THE "COLD START RATTLE" BUT DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT WAS AT THE TIME. ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AT 38,000 DEALER REPLACED TIMING CHAIN . ON THE WAY HOME VACUUM PUMP SEIZED CAUSING DAMAGE TO THE VALUES. DEALER SENT PICTURES TO MINI AND THE DECISION WAS MADE TO REPLACE THE ENGINE WITH A NEW ONE.

THE CAR HAS BEEN AT THE DEALER EVERY OTHER WEEK FOR THE LAST 6 WEEKS. ON COLD STARTS THE CAR WOULD RUN ROUGH, HESITATE ALMOST STALL AND THE HEAT WASN'T WORKING UNLESS YOU WERE DRIVING OR HAD YOUR FOOT ON THE GAS. THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER THEY REPLACED THE TIMING CHAIN CHANGED THE OIL AND BLED THE COOLANT. A FEW DAYS LATER IT STALLED ON A COLD START AND THE HEAT STILL WASN'T WORKING. THE DEALER THIS TIME FOUND EXCESSIVE CARBON IN ENGINE AND A LEAK AT WATER PUMP. COMPUTER DID NOT THROUGHOUT A CODE FOR EITHER. DEALER OPENED A CASE AT THE MANUFACTURE. 2 WEEKS LATER I BROUGHT IT BACK WHEN THE WINDOWS WOULD GO HALF WAY DOWN AND THE DOOR WOULD UNLOCK. DEALER RESET THE WINDOWS AND I WENT TO PICK IT UP TO FIND THE WINDOWS HALF WAY DOWN AND THE DOORS UNLOCKED. DEALER REPLACED THE MOTOR. 2 WEEKS LATER MY BATTERY LIGHT WHEN ON. ON THE WAY TO THE DEALER THE CAR DIED. DEALER SAID THERE WAS AN OIL LEAK THE LED TO THE ALTERNATOR BELT SLIPPING OFF AND MY BATTERY DIDN'T CHARGE AND NOW IS DEAD. I WON'T GET IT BACK UNTIL SOMETIME NEXT WEEK. THIS CAR ONLY HAS 26,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER S. AFTER 26000 MILES I HAVE A WHAT APPEARS TO BE A RATTLING ENGINE WHEN STARTING THE ENGINE FROM A COLD START (SITTING OVERNIGHT). SO THIS HAPPENS EVERY MORNING. I LIVE IN FLORIDA WITH RELATIVELY WARM TEMPERATURES. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY CLAIM THE DIESEL ENGINE SOUND COMING OUT OF THE CAR IS NORMAL. I DIDN'T BY THE CAR THIS WAY. I HAVE FOUND VARIOUS FORUMS AND YOUTUBE VIDEOS OF THIS PROBLEM. PLEASE HELP. *TR

I BOUGHT 2007 MINI COOPER S PRE-OWNED CAR ON 8/24/09 WHICH HAS 3,627 MILES ON IT AT $24,000. ON 10/25/09, IS ONLY 3 MONTHS LATER, I WAS DRIVING A CAR AND NOTICED SMELLING SOMETHING BURNING. THE CAR WON'T GO IN GEAR AND MOVE. ON THAT NIGHT, THE CAR STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LOAD. EVEN IF I PUSH A GAS, IT JUST DOES MAKE NOISY SOUND AND SMELL REALLY BAD, AND IT NEVER MOVE. NEXT DAY IT WAS TOWED TO THE ORLANDO MINI DEALER. THE DEALER SAYS THAT THE CLUTCH WAS BURNED OUT AND THIS REPAIR (PER THE DEALERS ESTIMATE IS $3,000)IS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY BECAUSE IT WAS DRIVEN BY AN INEXPERIENCED PERSON OR NEGLECTED. I AM AN EXPERIENCED MANUAL CAR DRIVER AND WHAT THE DEALER TOLD ME IS NOT TRUE. IT IS ONLY 4,000 MILES AND IT SHOULD NEVER HAPPEN IF WE DRIVE IN A NORMAL WAY. THE DEALER DID NOT LISTEN TO ME AND I ENDED UP GOING A RELIABLE LOCAL MECHANIC AND PAYING $2,200 TO FIX IT WITHOUT WARRANTY. THE GUY AT THE MECHANIC SAYS MINI CLUTCH IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND HE HAS FIXED SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE. I ALSO WENT TO A WEBSITE AND REALIZED THAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AND EVEN SAY IT MIGHT HAPPEN AGAIN SOON. I BELIEVE IT WAS A DEFECTED CLUTCH AND WOULD LIKE TO COMPLAIN ABOUT IT. I HAVE ALL EVIDENCES AVAILABLE. I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU COULD HELP ME TO RECOVER MY MONETARY DAMAGES. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER S SPONTANEOUSLY CAUGHT FIRE WHILE TURNED OFF AND PARKED IN MY GARAGE. I HAD TRAVELED LESS THAN TWO MILES WHEN I PARKED THE CAR. FIRE STARTED UNDER THE HOOD AND COMPLETELY TOTALED THE CAR BY THE TIME THE FIRE DEPARTMENT ARRIVED AND PUT IT OUT. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER S - MANUAL TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT ALLOW GEARSHIFTS AND COULD ONLY BE DRIVEN IN FIRST GEAR. DEALERSHIP STATED CLUTCH CAME APART AFTER 8 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. DEALERSHIP REPLACED WITH REMANUFACTURED CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL, GEARBOX OIL AND CLIP UNDER WARRANTY. IN JULY OF 2009 I NOTICED THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS SHIFTING ROUGH AND THE CLUTCH WAS MAKING A SQUEAKING SOUND WHEN APPLIED. DEALERSHIP GOT A WORK ORDER FROM MINI USA TO REMOVE THE CLUTCH/TRANSMISSION. ON AUGUST 12, 2009 THE DEALERSHIP REMOVED THE CLUTCH/TRANSMISSION AND REPLACED THE PLASTIC PART CAUSING THE NOISE, BUT NOTICED THE FLYWHEEL HAD HEAT DAMAGE AND CRACKING AGAIN. THIS TIME THE DEALERSHIP AND MINI USA STATE THAT THIS WAS CAUSED BY "WEAR AND TEAR" AND NOT COVERED UNDER THE MANUFACTURES WARRANTY DESPITE BEING COVERED 15K MILES EARLIER. CURRENT MILES ON VEHICLE ARE 31K WITH 19K REMAINING ON MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY. *TR

AIRBAG LIGHT ON SPEEDOMETER/TACH, NOT IN OVERHEAD CONSOLE. *TR

I PURCHASED A 2007 MINI-COOPER S AND AT 10K MILES (1 YEAR OLD) THE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW A NEW CAR WITH 10K MILES NEEDS A NEW CLUTCH. THE DEALERSHIP AND THE MANUFACTURER BOTH SAID IT WAS MY FAULT AND THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. THEY QUOTED ME OVER $3K TO REPAIR. I HAVE BEEN DRIVING MANUAL CARS FOR 15 YEARS AND HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH A CLUTCH. *TR

VERY NOISY CLATTER WHEN STARTING ENGINE WHEN COLD. ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE A DIESEL WHEN COLD. GOES AWAY AFTER A COUPLE OF MINUTES. DEALER SAYS ITS NORMAL ??? PROBLEM OCCURS EVERY MORNING. *TR

ENGINE EXHIBITS HARSH NOISE DURING STARTUP 50% OF THE TIME AFTER MINIMUM OF 8 HR SHUTDOWN OR IF PARKED NOSE LOW. THE ISSUE IS A DEFECTIVE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WHICH THE DEALER WON'T REPLACE BECAUSE 1) THEY HAVEN'T RECEIVED AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR KIT FROM BMW OR 2) TRY TO EXPLAIN IT AWAY WITH THE EXCUSE THAT THIS TIMING CHAIN METAL-ON-METAL RATTLE IS "NORMAL." AN INCREASING WORLD-WIDE NUMBER OF VEHICLES OF THIS MAKE, MODEL, AND ENGINE HAVE EXPERIENCED CATASTROPHIC LOW MILEAGE ENGINE FAILURES BECAUSE OF DEALER INACTION AND SUBSEQUENT TIMING CHAIN FAILURE. *TR

ENGINE EXHIBITS HASH NOISE DURING STARTUP 50% OF THE TIME AFTER MINIMUM OF 8 HR SHUTDOWN AT BELOW FREEZING TEMPERATURES. THE ISSUE IS A DEFECTIVE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WHICH THE DEALER WON'T REPLACE BECAUSE 1) THEY CAN'T REPRODUCE THE STARTUP NOISE OR 2) THIS IS "NORMAL." OTHER VEHICLES OF THIS MAKE, MODEL, AND ENGINE HAVE EXPERIENCED CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURES BECAUSE OF DEALER INACTION AND SUBSEQUENT TIMING CHAIN FAILURE. *TR

ENGINE NOISE ON COLD STARTS. MY CAR HAS MADE DIESEL LIKE NOISES ON COLD START UP FOR THE PAST YEAR. AT FIRST THE DEALER SAID IT WAS NORMAL. UPON INSISTING THEY ADVISED OF A BLEEDING PROCEDURE AND THEN OF A FAULTY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER. AFTER 7 MONTHS THEY FINALLY REPLACED THE TENSIONER (THEY HAD TO HEAR IT BEFORE THEY COULD REPAIR IT). THE DEALER HAD IT FOR A WEEK AND SAID IT WAS ALL FIXED. THE NOISE CAME BACK THREE DAYS LATER. I TOOK IT IN A SECOND TIME AND THEY GOT BMW ENGINEER TO LOOK AT IT. THEY REPLACED A CHECK VALVE THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO TRAP OIL IN THE VANOS SYSTEM AND SAID ONCE AGAIN IT WAS FIXED. THE NOISE WAS BACK THREE DAYS LATER. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER AND THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE NOISE. I HAVE BEEN IN TOUCH WITH MINI OF NORTH AMERICA AND THEY HAVE ASKED ME TO KEEP A LOG AS TO HOW I DRIVE AND WHEN IT HAPPENS WITH TEMPERATURE. THE ENGINE HAS OIL AND WATER ON DEMAND RATHER THAN ALL THE TIME LIKE REGULAR ENGINES. STARTING THIS UP WITH NO OIL IN THE HEAD IS BOUND TO CAUSE DAMAGE. *TR

CAR CLUNKS WHILE GOING OVER ROUGH ROADS. AS PER DIAGNOSIS FROM MINI DEALERSHIP, THE "TRANSMISSION MOTOR MOUNT IS TOO SMALL AND DOES NOT DAMPEN SHOCK FROM ROAD BUMPS OR ACCELERATION TORQUE" AND WAS REPLACED. *TR

COLD START CHATTER. VERY NASTY DIESEL ENGINE SOUND UPON STARTUP WHEN ENGINE IS COLD. SOUND LASTS FOR UP TO 1 MINUTE IF I START DRIVING RIGHT AWAY, OR 5 MINUTES IF I LET IT SIT IDLE. OCCURS BETWEEN 800 AND 3000 RPM. REPRODUCIBLE EVERY TIME THE ENGINE IS COLD (IE, HAS NOT BEEN USED RECENTLY). *TR

ON 2007 MINI COOPER S, PURCHASED NEW 12-2007, EXPERIENCING WARPED/MELTED/DEFORMED SCOOPS ON BONNET(HOOD) DUE TO EXTREME HEAT ISSUE FROM TURBO, SCOOP ORIGINALLY HAD ZERO CUTOUTS, MY COOPER HAS 3 CUTOUTS IN SCOOP MADE BY MFG, OPENING NOT LARGE ENOUGH OR FAN DOES NOT RUN LONG ENOUGH TO COOL DOWN THE BONNET SCOOP OR FAN DOES NOT RUN AT ALL, FAN RUNS ABOUT 30% OF THE TIME ONLY & WARPING OCCURS ON THE BONNET SCOOP WHICH IS PAINTED PLASTIC. IF THE BONNET SCOOP WAS METAL, THIS WOULD NOT BE AN ISSUE. HEAT CAN REACH 235 DEGREES. HAVE BEEN OPENING HOOD WHEN RE-PARKING IN THE GARAGE TO ALLOW TO VENT/COOL DOWN. OPENING HOOD NOT ALWAYS POSSIBLE ,OBVIOUSLY, WHEN PARKING NOT AT HOME. WOULD LIKE MINI (BMW) TO ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM, NEEDS TO REPLACE THE PAINTED TO MATCH HOOD SCOOP, ADDRESSING WITH BMW 12-19-2008. *TR

WE HAVE HAD A MINI COOPER SINCE JULY 2007 WITH GOOD YEAR EXCELLENCE RUN FLAT TIRES (195/55 R16 87V). WE RECENTLY NOTICED A BULGE IN THE SIDE WALL OF THE TIRE. DUE TO SAFETY CONCERNS AND OUR MECHANIC'S RECOMMENDATION, WE REPLACED THE TIRE FOR $250.00. *TR

HOOD SCOOP ON VEHICLE HAS DEFORMED DUE TO EXCESSIVE HEAT FROM TURBO. *TR

I OWN A 2007 MINI COOPER S HARDTOP. LAST MAY, WHILE TAKING SOME SHOPPING PACKAGES OUT OF THE BACK ,THROUGH THE HATCH OF MY VEHICLE , I WAS BURNED ON THE SIDE OF MY LEFT CALF BY THE EXHAUST PIPE. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AFTER, IT HAPPENED AGAIN, JUST NOT AS BADLY AS THE FIRST TIME THANKFULLY. THE FIRST BURN DID BLISTER AND TODAY,SEPT.30,2008, I STILL HAVE A MARK ON MY LEG FROM THIS PAINFUL EVENT. *TR

FOR ONE YEAR MY 2007 MINI COOPER S HAS HAD A DEFECT IN THE PASSENGER AIRBAG SYSTEM AS IT DISABLES WHEN A PASSENGER IS SEATED AND THE VEHICLE IS EITHER STOPPED OR IN MOTION. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER, PURCHASED NEW, APPROX 21,000 MILES. PARKED CAR WOULD NOT GO INTO REVERSE. MANY WEB FORUMS INDICATE ONGOING PROBLEMS WITH MINI TRANSMISSIONS. *TR

I HAVE EXPERIENCED MULTIPLE FAILURES OF THE FUEL PUMP ON MY 2007 MINI COOPER 7. IT IS NOW EXPERIENCING THE EARLY SYMPTOMS FOR A THIRD TIME. THE DEALERSHIP FAILED TO FIX THE PROBLEM ON 4 OCCASIONS PRIOR TO THE FUEL PUMP SEIZING. THEY RETURNED THE "REPAIRED" VEHICLE, AND THE REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMP WAS LEAKING (WAS OVERCOME BY THE FUMES TRYING TO DRIVE IT HOME FROM WORK THE SAME DAY IT WAS RETURNED). THEY REPAIRED IT A SECOND TIME, AND I HAD IT CHECKED BY A SECOND DEALER. WHAT ARE MY RIGHTS IN THIS SITUATION? I AM CONCERNED THERE IS A SERIOUS DEFECT WITH MY VEHICLE, AND THAT THE FUEL PUMP COULD SEIZE AGAIN SUDDENLY (AS IT DID LAST TIME). I HAVE NOW MET AT LEAST 3 OTHER OWNERS OF THE SAME MAKE AND MODEL CAR WHO HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEMS (AND WITH THE SAME DEALERSHIP, WESTCHESTER MINI/BMW). *TR

SEVERAL WEEKS AGO I FOUND A CRACK IN WINDSHIELD OF 2007 MINI COOPER S ON PASSENGER SIDE BELOW WIPER. I HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AND CAR WAS RETURNED TO ME ON SEPT. 10TH. ON SEPT. 16 I FOUND ANOTHER CRACK IN THE NEW GLASS IN APPROXIMATELY SAME SPOT! AFTER LOOKING ON INTERNET I FOUND THAT STRESS CRACKING OF THE WINDSHIELD IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR. ANYWAY, THE DEALER CLAIMS IT IS AN IMPACT CRACK AND ONLY A COINCIDENCE THAT IT OCCURRED IN SAME SPOT! AFTER ARGUING THEY AGREED TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD AT THEIR COST--AS A COURTESY. I WAS NOT AWARE OF ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD AND EVEN IF A SMALL PEBBLE HIT--THE WINDSHIELD SHOULD NOT CRACK SO EASILY. *TR

THE TAILPIPES, WHEN HOT, APPARENTLY PROTRUDE ENOUGH TO CAUSE SEVERE BURNS TO THE LEG. MY 7 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER SUSTAINED A SERIOUS BURN THIS WAY WHEN GETTING SOMETHING OUT OF THE HATCHBACK. *TR

THE PASSENGER SEAT AIRBAG GOES OFF (THE INDICATOR LIGHT SIGNALS THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG IS OFF), WHEN A 105 POUND ADULT WOMAN IS SEATED IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. I WAS TOLD BY MY LOCAL MINI COOPER DEALER THAT THE SEAT DOES NOT SENSE SOMEONE IN THE PASSENGER SEAT UNLESS THEY ARE 115 LBS OR MORE. I FEEL THAT THIS IS DANGEROUS SINCE THERE ARE PLENTY OF ADULT FEMALES THAT WEIGH LESS THAN 115 LBS. I HAVE TAKEN THIS ISSUE TO MINI CORPORATE AND THEY REFERRED ME TO NHTSA. I SPOKE WITH AN AIRBAG REPRESENTATIVE AT NHTSA WHO TOLD ME THAT THE TESTING CONDITIONS FOR MINI COOPER 2007 WERE DONE WITH A 108 LB FEMALE. I AM FREQUENTLY THE PASSENGER IN THIS VEHICLE AND DO NOT FEEL SAFE KNOWING THAT THE AIRBAGS ARE OFF. IN THE EVENT THAT MY HUSBAND AND I ARE IN AN ACCIDENT REQUIRING AIRBAGS, THEY WILL NOT DEPLOY ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. *TR

HOOD SCOOP ON 2007 MINI COOPER "S" IS MELTING DUE TO EXCESSIVE HEAT FROM TURBO. *TR

RECEIVED BLISTERING AND PERMANENT SCARING BURN FROM EXHAUST PIPE WHILE REMOVING CARGO FROM REAR OF VEHICLE. *TR

RECEIVED BLISTERING AND PERMANENT SCARING BURN FROM EXHAUST PIPE WHILE REMOVING CARGO FROM REAR OF VEHICLE. *TR

THE HOOD SCOOP OF MY CAR DEFORMS DUE TO EXTREME HEAT. *TR

AFTER A 30 MINUTE DRIVE, I PARKED AND THEN PULLED SOMETHING OUT OF THE TRUNK. WHILE REACHING IN, I BURNED MY LEFT SHIN ON THE TAILPIPE. I SHOWED IT A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER TO OUR BURN UNIT DIRECTOR AND HE TOLD ME THAT IT WAS A FUNCTIONAL FULL THICKNESS BURN IN AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS LOCATION (BECAUSE OF THE POOR BLOOD PERFUSION TO THE SHIN, HEALING IS IMPAIRED AND INFECTION RISK IS HIGH). HE SENT ME HOME FROM WORK ON ANTIBIOTICS AND I HAD TO BE ON BED REST WITH MY LEG ELEVATED. I SPOKE TO MINI AND THEY SUGGESTED THAT I BE CAREFUL - AS THE TAILPIPE CAN GET HOT. I THANKED THEM FOR THE ADVICE AND MADE THE FOLLOWING POINT: SURE, IT GETS HOT... IT'S AN EXHAUST TAILPIPE. HOWEVER, IT'S THE FIRST THING MY LEG COMES IN CONTACT TO AND IT'S IN THE CENTER OF A CAR THAT REQUIRES YOU TO GET CLOSE IN ORDER TO PULL SOMETHING OUT OF THE TRUNK. I SUGGESTED THAT BMW ISSUE A RECALL AND ADJUST THE TAILPIPE SO THAT THE FIRST THING THE LEG HITS IS THE BUMPER (LIKE MOST CARS). I WAS TOLD THAT NO CHANGE WAS PLANNED AT THIS TIME. MY POINTS: IT'S A BAD DESIGN. IT'S AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS PROBLEM. IT IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM (A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH OR NORTHAMERICANMOTORING SEARCH WILL SHOW THIS). BMW NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING TO PROTECT ITS CUSTOMERS AND EVEN MORE IMPORTANTLY, ITS CUSTOMERS' CHILDREN. *TR ADD PICTURE *121108 CW UPDATED 12/11/08. *JB

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER S. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CLUTCH ALWAYS EMITTED AN ODOR OF BURNING PLASTIC. THE ENGINE GRADUALLY REVVED WITHIN A 48 HOUR PERIOD. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE CLUTCH FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT A NEW CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE INSTALLED AT THE ESTIMATED COST OF $3,300. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 5,000.

I BURNED MY LOWER FRONT LEG ON THE CHROME TIPPED DUAL EXHAUST PIPES OF OUT 2007 MINI COOPER S (TURBO VERSION). *TR

LOWER LEG SUSTAINED BURN RESULTING IN SCARING AS RESULT OF COMING INTO CONTACT WITH EDGE OF REAR EXHAUST PIPE(S). EXHAUST PIPES EXTEND TOO FAR BEYOND REAR BUMPER CREATING EXPOSURE TO A PERSON ACCESSING TRUNK. *TR

COMPLAINT FOR DUNLOP RADIAL TUBELESS TIRES, 205145 R17 (84V) SP SPORT 01, RUN FLAT TIRES. I WAS WASHING MY 2007 MINI COOPER S (WITH APPROXIMATELY 8,000 MILES) AND NOTICED THAT THE LEFT FRONT TIRE HAD SEVERE BUBBLING OF THE SIDE WALL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE IT REPLACED, EXPLAINING THAT I HAD NOT HAD ANY UNUSUAL IMPACT ON THE TIRE AND THAT IT MUST BE DEFECTIVE. THE DEALERSHIP WAS UNWILLING TO COMPENSATE ME FOR THE TIRE, SAYING THAT I HAD TO GO DIRECTLY TO DUNLOP. I HAD THE TIRE REPLACED ON MARCH 13TH, 2008 BECAUSE I LIVE IN AN AREA WHERE DRIVING IS A NECESSITY AND WAS WORRIED ABOUT THE POSSIBLE OUTCOMES IF I DID NOT REPLACE IT. IT WAS REPLACED AT ASSAEL BMW/MINI OF MONROVIA, CA. LESS THAN THREE WEEKS LATER, I NOTICED YET ANOTHER BUBBLE ON THE NEWLY REPLACED TIRE! AGAIN, THERE WAS NO UNUSUAL IMPACT UPON THE TIRE WALL, NO RUB MARKS, AND NO OBVIOUS DEFECTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE TIRE. AGAIN, BECAUSE OF SAFETY ISSUES, I AM FORCED TO HAVE THE TIRE REPLACED, BUT AM FILING AN OFFICIAL COMPLAINT FOR EACH TIRE, COSTING APPROXIMATELY $387.00. IN ADDITION, OVER THE PAST TWO YEARS, I HAVE HAD THREE ADDITIONAL DUNLOP BRAND RUN FLAT TIRES REPLACED BECAUSE OF SIDE WALL BALLOONING AT MY EXPENSE. I WOULD ADVISE THAT ALL OWNERS OF THE TIRES DESCRIBED ABOVE CAREFULLY CHECK THEIR TIRES FOR POSSIBLE BALLOONING, AS THIS SEEMS TO BE A RECURRING PROBLEM THAT DUNLOP AND/OR THE DEALERSHIP IS UNWILLING TO ACKNOWLEDGE. *TR

DURING START UP, LOUD VALVE TAPPING NOISE IS HEARD. NOISE PERSISTED DURING MULTIPLE SEGMENT OF THE TRIP WHERE ENGINE WAS SHUT OFF FOR UP TO 30 MIN AND RESTARTED. SUBSEQUENT NOISE WAS NOT AS PROMINENT AS THE INITIAL START UP ON THE SAME DAY. *TR

PASSENGER AIRBAG DEACTIVATES ITSELF WHILE AN ADULT PASSENGER IS RIDING IN CAR. THE CAR DOES THIS AT RANDOM. DEALERSHIP HAS CHECKED THE CAR AND SAYS THAT IT IS WORKING PROPERLY. *TR

DANGEROUS LEVEL OF HEAT IN THE DRIVER'S FOOTWELL AFTER CAR IS DRIVER FOR A WHILE. *TR

UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS, THE CAR'S CENTER PILLAR AREA (DIRECTLY ADJACENT TO THE GAS PEDAL) REACHES AVERAGE TEMPERATURES OF 115-120 DEGREES. I HAVE BURNED MYSELF ON THIS AREA WHILE WEARING SHORTS, LEAVING A RED WELT. I'VE ALSO JERKED MY FOOT FROM THE GAS PEDAL ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHEN THE HOT SURFACE CATCHES ME BY SURPRISE. *TR

THE CENTER PILLAR HEAT RISES TO AN EXTREMELY HIGH TEMPERATURE IN MY CAR. THIS HAPPENED IN THE SUMMER WHEN TEMPERATURES WERE VERY HOT.(100+) IT'S HOT ENOUGH TO STARTLE A DRIVER OR BURN THEM; THIS COULD CAUSE THEM TO REACT BY MOVING THEIR FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR IN AN UNPREDICTABLE WAY, WHICH IS QUITE A SAFETY HAZARD. IT BURNED MY RIGHT ANKLE. I'M WRITING NOW BECAUSE I REALLY DIDN'T KNOW ANY BETTER THEN, PLUS I DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT THIS WEBSITE. NOW THERE ARE REPORTS OF MINI COOPER SS CATCHING ON FIRE. I AM CONCERNED. *TR

PASSENGER AIRBAG SENSOR DOES NOT SENSE PASSENGER. LIGHT ILLUMINATES STATING PASSENGER AIRBAGS OFF. DEALER HAS REPLACED SENSOR SEAT MAT TWICE AND STILL DOES HAS NOT FIXED THE PROBLEM. AFTER THE LAST FIX THE MINI TECH SERVICE ADVISOR SENT HOME WITH ME ADDING A STATEMENT TO MY FILE THAT IF YOU ARE A CERTAIN SIZE/WEIGHT AND OR MOVE IN SEAT LIGHT COULD COME ON. I DO NOT MOVE AROUND IN SEAT AND I MY SIZE IS NOT THE ISSUE. IS CURRENTLY AT DEALER SINCE I HAD TO GO THROUGH BMW TO GET A REP TO LOOK AT. AS OF TODAY CAR IS NOT FIXED. THERE WERE PROBLEMS WITH THESE AS TOLD TO ME BY THE SERVICE ADVISOR AND PARTS MANAGER AT BMW AND MY FIRST SEAT MAT I HAD TO WAIT 3 MONTHS FOR BECAUSE OF BACKORDER AND AVAILABILITY SINCE SO MANY WERE WRONG. MY NUMBER IS LARGE IN THE # OF FAILURES CATEGORY SINCE EVERYTIME I GET IN THE CAR IT TAKES ABOUT 3 -6 FAILURES BEFORE I CAN TRIGGER IT TO WORK SINCE MAY 2007 WHICH IS WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW. *TR

COLD START RUMBLE/RATTLE/CLATTER FROM ENGINE. INTERMITTENT AND SPORADIC SOUND FROM ENGINE BAY UPON START UP PRIMARILY DURING WINTER MONTHS, SOUND DISAPTES AND GOES AWAY AS CAR WARMS. THE SOUND IS VERY ROUGH CLATTER, SOUNDING LIKE METAL ON METAL - OIL STARVATION ON START UP? I HAVE SERIOUS CONCERNS ON LONG TERM DAMAGE AND COMPROMISE OF THE NORMAL LIFE OF MOTOR - IN OTHER WORDS GETTING SCREWED OUTSIDE OF WARRANTY. THIS IS NOT A SINGLE INCIDENT, BUT AN ONGOING CONDITION. *TR

CAR HAS BEEN OUTSIDE IN THE COLD WEATHER AND WHEN STARTED IT SOUNDS LIKE NOT FIRING CORRECTLY-BACKFIRING NOISES. ENGINE LIGHTS POP UP. MAINLY 1/2 ENGINE POWER LIGHT AND CRUISE CONTROL FAILURE. CAR REALLY ONLY HAS 1/2 ENGINE POWER. TOP SPEED IS 45MPH, DOWNHILL. CAR LURCHES AROUND, ENGINE REVS EVERY SECOND OR SO. 1ST TIME SHUT CAR OFF AND TURNED BACK ON THEN IT WAS FINE. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT REMAINED ON. CAR SPENT NIGHT IN GARAGE, WAS FINE NEXT MORNING. THAT NIGHT SAME SYMPTOMS AT START UP BUT DIDN'T GO AWAY - HAD TO MAKE LONG COMMUTE HOME AT SLOW SPEEDS. CAR SPENT NIGHT INSIDE AGAIN AND WAS FINE IN THE MORNING. CALLED DEALER, CAR TOWED TO DEALER. SERVICE MANAGER KEPT USING ENGINE AND THROTTLE INTERCHANGEABLY - CAUSING GREAT CONCERN WHEN I WAS TOLD THAT THE PROBLEM IS CONDENSATION GETTING INTO IT AND FREEZING, BUT THEY REASSURED ME IT IS THE THROTTLE AND NOT THE ENGINE. DEALER SAID THEY PUT A SPECIAL LUB IN IT AND TO NOT DRIVE SHORT DRIVES-I NEVER DO, 24,000 MILES ON A 9 MONTH OLD CAR. 6 WEEKS LATER EXACT SAME PROBLEMS AGAIN. CAR TO DEALER. LOANER CAR (2007 MINI COOPER S) DID EXACT SAME THING MY CAR WAS DOING. THE LOANER CAR DID COME OUT OF IT ABOUT 30 MILES INTO COMMUTE. COULD GET UP TO HIGHWAY SPEEDS, ALL LIGHTS WENT OFF EXCEPT CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. SOMETHING SEEMED TO THAW OUT. WAS TOLD THE THROTTLE WAS FREEZING IN COLD TEMPS AND AFFECTING MANY MINI'S, BMW'S, AND JAG'S. DEALER CHANGED OIL IN MY CAR, 1 WEEK AFTER 1ST OIL CHANGE. DEALER SAID THEY ARE DOING INVESTIGATION BUT THAT I

NEW 2007 MINI COOPER S DOES NOT STAY RUNNING IN COLD WEATHER WHEN STARTED. THE CAR HAS TO BE REVVED ABOVE 1000RPM'S FOR 2 MINUTES TO KEEP CAR RUNNING. SO FAR ORIGINAL COMPUTER HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED, A NEW COMPUTER INSTALLED SINCE THE REPROGRAM DIDN'T WORK AND NEW HOSES PLACED THINKING THERE IS AN ICING ISSUE. CAR WAS AT SERVICE CENTER FOR 1 MONTH, TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FIXED AND TESTED, STARTED CAR TWO DAYS LATER AND IT DID EXACTLY THE SAME THING ALL OVER AGAIN, IT DOES NOT STAY RUNNING WHEN COLD. *TR

GETS EXTREMELY HOT UNDER THE HOOD AND DEFORMS THE PLASTIC HOOD SCOOP. *TR

DURING COLD START VEHICLE MAKES LOUD METAL ON METAL SOUND PERSISTENT FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. SOUND IS SIMILAR TO OLDER DIESEL ENGINE WITH RATTLING AND ROUGH SOUNDS. IN THE UK DEALERS HAVE BEEN RESPONSIVE TO THE ISSUE REPLACING THE CHAIN TENSIONER AND NOW IN SOME CASES THE ENGINE. DEALERS IN THE US DENY THE ISSUE AND PROVIDE NO REMEDY CALLING THE SOUND NORMAL. ISSUE IS CAUSING UNDUE ENGINE WEAR. *TR