2016 Honda Accord complaints

VEHICLE HAS BEEN HAVING ISSUES WHEN ACCELERATING MAKING CAR RIDE VERY UNCOMFORTABLE WHEN DRIVING. ACCELERATION BETWEEN 20-40 MPH ON STREET ROAD ALONG WITH ACCELERATION AT 40-60 MPH ON EXPRESS LANES

I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR OF ME OWNING THE VEHICLE. ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO I STARTED HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WHERE MY BATTERY WAS DYING. IN ADDITION TO THAT MY.CAR STARTED MAKING A FUNNY NOISE. TURNS OUT I NEEDED MY TENSIONER/ALTERNATOR PULLEY REPLACED AND THAT IS WHEN THEY NOTICED THAT THE ALTERNATOR WAS NOT CHARGING CORRECTLY. IT WAS MEASURING AT 11 VOLTS INSTEAD OF THE NORMAL 14V. I HAD TO HAVE IT REPLACED ALONG WITH MY BELT TENSIONER. I SPENT 600 AND THEN I LEARNED THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON HONDAS FOR THE SAME ISSUE BUT MY CAR WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE LIST. I DON'T SEE WHY NOT WHEN IT WAS ALMOST THE IDENTICAL ISSUE. THIS IS THE FIRST CAR I HAVE EVER BOUGHT AND I BOUGHT A HONDA BECAUSE OF ITS REPUTATION FOR DEPENDABILITY. THE ALTERNATOR SHOULD NOT HAVE GIVEN OUT WITHIN THE FIRST THREE YEARS OF OWNING THE VEHICLE.

DRIVER'S SIDE LED DRL NO LONGER WORKING. CAR IS AT 39,000 MILES, JUST OUT OF THE 36,000 MILE WARRANTY. MANY HONDAS APPEAR TO HAVE THIS ISSUE, WHICH PRESENTS A DEFINITE SAFETY CONCERN DURING TWILIGHT AND INCLEMENT WEATHER.

REARVIEW CAMERA STOPPED WORKING AFTER WARRANTY AND NEEDS REPLACED. SINCE THE COST TO REPLACE IS SO HIGH, I WILL JUST HAVE TO DO WITHOUT THE CAMERA. THERE WAS NO DAMAGE TO THE CAMERA. ITS DEFECTIVE.

I PURCHASED A 2016 HONDA ACCORD, TOURING TRIM LEVEL, BRAND NEW. BOTH DRL'S CEASED TO FUNCTION JUST PRIOR TO THE WARRANTY EXPIRING. THE DRIVER SIDE DRL HAS CEASED TO OPERATE AGAIN, IN LESS THAN TWO YEARS TIME.

CLOCK RESETS EVERY TIME I TURN CAR OFF. MILEAGE PERFORMANCE PER TANK OF GAS RESETS ALSO.

HAD BATTERY SENSOR PROBLEMS WITCHED CAUSE THE ALTERNATOR NOT TO CHARGE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY. AS A RESULT ALTERNATOR GOT DAMAGED AND WAS LEFT TO INSTALL A NEW ONE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HONDA ACCORD. WHILE DRIVING, THE CONTACT HEARD AN ABNORMAL NOISE INTERMITTENTLY. SUBURBAN HONDA (25100 HAGGERTY RD, FARMINGTON HILLS, MI 48335, (248) 477-1700) WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE ON MORE THAN TWO OCCASIONS. THE CONTACT REVIEWED TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN: 16002 PERTAINING TO THE FLY WHEEL AND STARTER, BUT THE DEALER KEPT THE VEHICLE FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AS THE DEALER INDICATED THAT IT WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THE STARTER AND FLY WHEEL WERE NOT CONNECTING PROPERLY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

I NEEDED TO CHANGE FUEL PUMP AND MY FUEL SYSTEM CLEANED BECAUSE MY CAR WAS STALLING AND NOT RESPONDING TO ACCELERATION ON THE ROAD BUT RESPOND WHEN I DIDN'T EVEN ACCELERATE WHICH WAS VERY DANGEROUS. I DID SEE HONDA RECALLED V6 MODELS BUT THEY SHOULD RECALL V4 MODELS TOO AS IT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ACCIDENTS.

THIS 2016 HONDA ACCORD TOURING OF MINE MAKES SCREECHING NOISE AT 20 MPH OR LOWER WHEN I TURN LEFT. I TOOK IT TO BROOKDALE HONDA AT BROOKLYN CENTER MN TODAY AND THEY SAID IT IS NOT NOTHING BUT COMING FROM ONE OF THE SEATS. THIS CAR GAVE ME PROBLEMS FROM BAD TIRES TO WHEELS TO STEERING WHEEL AND DAYLIGHT RUNNING LIGHTS NOW. US GOVERNMENT SHOULD FINE THESE COMPANIES HARD. THIS IS A $35 K CAR AND WE CONSUMERS ARE FACING THESE UNWANTED ISSUES THAT SHOULD BE TAKEN CARE OF FROM HONDA WITHOUT ANY QUESTIONS. HONDA IS AWARE OF THESE ISSUES AND TAKE PRECAUTIONS AND LET THE OWNERS KNOW BEFORE WE KNOW IT. VERY FRUSTRATING...

DRIVER SIDE LED DRL BUSTED PREMATURELY.

BOTH DAYLIGHT RUNNING LIGHTS (DLRS) STOPPED WORKING. THEY ARE HALF ILLUMINATED AND A SAFETY HAZARD. ABSOLUTELY UNACCEPTABLE AS IT IS HAZARDOUS.

WHEN I DRIVE MY CAR. IT SUDDENLY JUMPS. IT SEEMS LIKE ITS THE TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. IT HAPPENS AT LOW SPEED AS WELL AS HIGH SPEED. I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING POSSIBLE TO KEEP MY CAR MAINTAINED. ALSO ITS BATTERY IS DYING AFTER HAVING IT FOR 3 YEARS. I HAVE TO JUMP THE CAR AT RANDOM TIMES BECAUSE THE CAR WOULD NOT START.

THE DRL (DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP) INSIDE THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY HAS BURNED OUT. MY HONDA DEALERSHIP HAS ADMITTED THAT THIS IS BECOMING A COMMON FAILURE WITH 2016/17 ACCORDS. IF IT HAPPENS AFTER THE WARRANTY ENDS, IT IS A VERY COSTLY REPLACEMENT ANYWHERE FROM $500. TO $1,000. THE PASSENGER SIDE DRL IN THAT HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AS I AM TOLD IN THESE ACCORDS IS ALSO BURNING OUT IN TIME AFTER THE DRIVERS SIDE DOES, THEREFORE INCURRING ANOTHER HUGE EXPENSE. THESE DRL LIGHTS ARE LED AND SUPPOSED TO LAST FOR SEVERAL YEARS. AN ELECTRICAL FAULT CONTROLLING THESE LAMPS OR SOME KIND OF BAD ENGINEERING DESIGN ARE CAUSING THE FAILURE OF THE DRLS. THESE AUTOMOBILES WERE BUILT WITH THIS LIGHTING SYSTEM TO AID IN SAFETY ON OUR DANGEROUS ROADS AND OWNERS OF THESE AUTOS EXPECT THEM TO STAY WORKING FOR MORE THAN A YEAR, TWO OR THREE WHEN PURCHASING A NEW CAR. THESE LIGHTS JUST BURN OUT WHEN DRIVING AT SOME POINT.

BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE IN 1 YEAR

MY DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT LED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS NO LONGER WORKING. I DO NOT KNOW HOW LONG IT HAS BEEN OUT, BUT NOTICED IT TODAY.

HONDA ACCORD 2016 EPS SYSTEM LOCK POWER STERLING WHEEL DURING DRIVE. LUCKY, I CAN SLOW DOWN AND SHUT OFF THE ENGINE TO AVOID ACCIDENT. THIS VEHICLE JUST 34600 MILES AND DAY PURCHASE JUST EXPIRED 30 DAYS. HONDA SHOULD FIX THIS ISSUED MORE THAN WARRANTY AND AVOID PEOPLE IN DANGER WITH THIS TYPE ISSUED IN FUTURE.

I HAVE NOTICED THE BURNT OUT DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT LED, BUT ONLY WHEN IT'S PAST WARRANTY. HOWEVER, IT MAY HAVE HAPPENED EARLIER AS WELL. TYPICALLY LEDS ARE MORE RELIABLE THAN HALOGEN OR INCANDESCENT WITH A LIFETIME OF ABOUT 30,000 HOURS. THE CAR IS USED NO MORE THAN 2 HOURS A DAY, MEANING IT WENT OUT IN NO MORE THAN 2,000 HOURS. HOWEVER, DUE TO DESIGN ISSUE, THIS LIGHT ALONE CANNOT BE REPLACED - THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY MUST BE REPLACED. WHILE HONDA DEALER ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THIS WAS A WIDESPREAD PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE, THEY REFUSED TO REPLACE IT. AND, PER MY RESEARCH, IT COSTS AT LEAST $600 TO REPLACE ONE ASSEMBLY. ACCORDINGLY TO CARCOMPLAINTS.COM, THIS IS THE BIGGEST PROBLEM WITH 2016 ACCORDS.

LED DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS HAVE FAILED ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR.

CAR WILL NOT START AFTER SITTING IN THE PARKING LOT FOR 10 MINS WHEN NOTHING TURNED ON. THIS IS THE 2ND TIME IN 6 MONTHS. THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS IN DECEMBER 2017 IN BAY AREA CA, AND NOW IN PLEASANTON CA WITH TEMP ABOUT 60 DEGREES OUTSIDER.

THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT BURNED OUT ON THE DRIVER SIDE...

TOURING MODEL DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT (DRL) LED STRIP IS 70% UN-LIT ON ONE HEADLIGHT. THIS APPEARS TO BE AN EXTREMELY COMMON PROBLEM AND REQUIRES REPLACEMENT OF THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY, DEALER PART COST $945, INSTALL NOT INCLUDED. FROM MY RESEARCH IT APPEARS THESE BURN OUT EARLY AND OFTEN AND DRL'S ARE LISTED AS A SAFETY FEATURE. THIS IS NOT RIGHT AND A SOLUTION NEEDS TO BE PROVIDED. HONDA CANNOT EXPECT PEOPLE TO REPLACE LIGHTS EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS AT THAT COST.

DRIVE SIDE HEAD LIGHT - RUNNING LIGHT IS OUT. LED DRL BURNOUT ISSUE

2016 ACCORD SPORT HAD BOTH LED LIGHT STRIPS GO OUT. I HAVE WITNESSED THIS ON ALMOST EVERY ONE OF THAT YEARS MODEL. I HAVE ALSO SEEN HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS ONLINE AND SOME WERE EVEN DURING LEASE MILEAGE! THIS IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS THAT THESE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ARE NOT UNDER RECALL. HONDA WILL NOT KEEP THAT CONTINUED CUSTOMER LOYALTY AND RETURN FROM CUSTOMERS WITH ISSUES LIKE THIS. I LEASED THIS VEHICLE AT A PURCHASE COST OF $27,000! IT IS ALMOST $1000 EACH TO REPLACE THESE STRIPS AS THE ENTIRE LIGHT HOUSING ASSEMBLY HAS TO BE REPLACED TO FIX JUST THIS PART OF THE LIGHTS? THIS IS A HUGE DESIGN FLAW ON HONDA'S PART! AND TO EXPECT YOUR CUSTOMERS TO FOOT THE BILL FOR THESE REPAIRS IS UNACCEPTABLE. THIS IS A MANUFACTURERS DESIGN FLAW BECAUSE THESE LIGHTS DO NOT HAVE THE OPTION OF BEING TURNED OFF WITH THE REGULAR LIGHTS. THESE ARE FORCED TO RUN NONSTOP FOR THE LIFE OF THE VEHICLE. HONDA'S DESIGN ENGINEERS HAVE CREATED AN EXPENSIVE FLAW THAT SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER RECALL!!! WE ARE ALL RECONSIDERING WHETHER THAT HONDA QUALITY IS LIVING UP TO ITS NAME ANYMORE. I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED AS I JUST PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE OUT OF LEASE (3 YEARS LATER) AND STILL HAVE A $26K VEHICLE WITH NO WORKING DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS BECAUSE I REFUSE TO SINK $2K IN REPLACING A MANUFACTURERS DESIGN FLAW. THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED A MANUFACTURERS DEFECT ON ALL ACCOUNTS AND REPLACED BY HONDA. HOW MANY CUSTOMERS WILL CONTINUE TO BE RETURNING CUSTOMERS IF THEY HAVE TO REPLACE $2K IN LIGHTS EVERY COUPLE T

I LEASED A NEW 2016 ACCORD SPORT IN MARCH 2016. I JUST RECENTLY PURCHASED IT OUT OF THE 3 YEAR LEASE. IN THE 2ND YEAR OF LEASE (12/08/2017) I WAS AT THE GAS STATION WITH THE CAR SHUT OFF, TRIED TO START IT AND IT WOULDN'T START. BATTERY WASN'T WORKING. (ORIGINAL HONDA BATTERY STILL IN IT). THE CAR WAS AT 80K MILES. TRIED TO JUMP START AND IT WOULDN'T START. CALLED TO HAVE IT TOWED HOME, TOW DRIVER TESTED THE BATTERY AND JUMPED IT AND IT STARTED BUT WAS HAVING ISSUES SO HE SAID TO GET IT HOME. I REPLACED THE BATTERY IMMEDIATELY THAT NIGHT. (NEW STORE BOUGHT BATTERY) NO ISSUES UNTIL NOW (APRIL 2019). WAS DRIVING LAST NIGHT IN THE RAIN AND ALL 4 OF MY DASH LIGHTS CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME (ANTI-LOCK BREAK-ABS, TIRE PRESSURE-TPMS, TRACTION CONTROL, ELECTRIC POWER STEERING-EPS). I HAVE ASSOCIATED THIS ISSUE WITH SEVERAL DEALERS AND IT HAS BEEN LINKED TO THE BATTERY CAUSING THESE SENSORS TO TRIP AS THEY ARE NOT GETTING ENOUGH POWER. HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS FOR THIS SAME ISSUE! ONCE THE BATTERY IS REPLACED, THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY. I HAVE OWNED THIS CAR NOW FOR 3 YEARS EXACTLY AND THIS WILL BE THE 3RD BATTERY I HAVE HAD TO PUT IN THIS CAR, BUT THIS VIN IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE BATTERY RECALL? THE BATTERY RECALL (17V418000) IS FOR WATER GETTING INTO THE BATTERY CASE AND CAUSING SHORTS AND POSSIBILITIES FOR ELECTRICAL FIRES. SOMETHING ON THIS VIN MODEL IS HAVING SEVERE BATTERY ISSUES, POSSIBLY RELATED TO THE WATER WITH LAST NIGHTS INCIDENT, BUT 3 BATTERIES IN 3 YEARS IS UNACCEPTABLE. THIS

DRIVER-SIDE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT FAILED IN LESS THAN THREE YEARS OF SERVICE AND 100,000 MILES.

PREMATURE FAILURE OF DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRLS) AT 46,000 MILES AND 3.5-YEARS OF SERVICE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HONDA ACCORD. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY FAILED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V418000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,639. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

CELL PHONE NO LONGER WORKS CONNECTED TO THE CONTROL PANEL WHEN VEHICLE IS IN MOTION OR STATIONARY. WHEN CALLS ARE COMING IN AND ANSWERED, IT DISCONNECTS.

INTERMITTENTLY STARTS. WILL ONLY START WHEN USING PUSH START 75% OF THE TIME. OTHER 25% THERE IS A WINDING AND GRINDING SOUND. MUST REPEAT PUSH START 5 TO 6 TIMES BEFORE IGNITION WILL FIRE. THIS OCCURS RANDOMLY WHILE VEHICLE IS NOT IN MOTION. STARTER WILL NOT FIRE THE ENGINE AND MAY BE SHORTING OUT OR IS HUNG UP OR MISS FIRING. SMELLS OF HEATED PLASTIC NOTED DURING AND AFTER MISS FIRE.

3 YEARS OLF CAR WITH 48,000 MILES BOTH FRONT DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ARE BURNT OUT. COST TO REAPIR IS ALMOST $1,000. NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ONLINE, AND SHOULD BE A RECALL. THEY RECALL FOR SAFETY ITEMS AND THESE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ARE THERE FOR SAFETY.

I HAVE A 2016 HONDA ACCORD AND THE DRL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAVE BURNED OUT. I HAVE BEEN DOING RESEARCH ONLINE AND THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL AND THE 2017. MY CAR IS APPROXIMATELY 2 YEARS OLD AND SHOULD NOT HAVE THIS ISSUE. TO MAKE MATTERS WORST, THE ONLY WAY TO FIX IT IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT AT A COST OF APPROXIMATELY 600.

KNOWN ISSUE WOTH BAD DESIGN DRL. LEFT SIDE WENT OUT. ONLY HAD 22,000 MILES. RIGHT SIDE DIMMING ALSO. LEDS DO NOT LAST LONGER THAN HALOGEN HEAD LIGHT.

I WAS DRIVING ON 35-38 MPH IN A 35MPH ZONE. THE ROAD WAS CURVING IN THE FORM OF A C AND MY TIRES STARTED TO SKID. ONCE I APPLIED BRAKES AND I COULDN'T FEEL ANYTHING BRAKING AND ONCE AGAIN APPLIED, THE CAR TURNED 90 DEGREE, STRAIGHTENED OUT ON THE ROAD BUT NOT COMPLETELY MEANING THE CAR WAS STILL GOING FORWARD IN THE DIRECTION ON THE ROAD BUT A 30 DEGREE ANGLE. I COULDN'T CONTROL STEERING OR BRAKES AND HIT A FIRE HYDRANT AT THE END. I ASKED THE INSURANCE COMPANY TO CONTACT HONDA FOR DETAILS KNOW THE DIFFERENT CONTROL UNITS AND READING BUT THEY DIDN'T WANT TO GO THAT ROUTE. NOW MY INSURANCE RATE IS UP AND I HAVE 2 POINTS SINCE THE COPS DIDN'T BELIEVE IT COULD HAVE BEEN THE CARS FAULT.

DRIVER'S SIDE DAYTIME LED RUNNING LIGHT NO LONGER WORKS AFTER ONLY 65,000 MILES.

BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES AND CONSTANTLY DRAINS DESPITE TURNING OFF AUTOMATIC LIGHTS AND AIR CONDITIONING TO UTILIZE LESS BATTERY POWER. TURNING OVER WILL CHOKE AT TIMES AND START BUT ABOUT EVERY TIME THAT I TAKE MY CAR IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE THE BATTERY POWER TESTS LOW.

I DRIVE A 2016 HONDA ACCORD EX-L V6 WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION. THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL IS FAILED, AND IS CAUSING A COUPLE OF NOISES. THERE IS A CHATTERING NOISE DURING CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT INTO FIRST GEAR FROM A STOP TO A ROLL. THIS IS DUE TO THE EXCESS RADIAL PLAY IN THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL'S ARC DAMPER SPRING MECHANISM. AFTER THOROUGH RESEARCH, IT WAS FOUND THAT THE SERVICE LIFE OF DUAL MASS FLYWHEELS, SPECIFICALLY THE ARC DAMPER SPRING MECHANISM, IS RATHER SHORT DUE TO THE DEFECTIVE NATURE OF THE DESIGN. THE CAR I DRIVE STARTED EXPERIENCING NOTICEABLE FAILURE WITH ONLY ABOUT 17,000 MILES ON THE ODOMETER. I AM AN EXCELLENT DRIVER, WITH YEARS OF MANUAL TRANSMISSION EXPERIENCE AND KNOWLEDGE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO MANY CERTIFIED HONDA DEALERSHIPS ON LONG ISLAND, AND THEY ALL HEARD THE NOISES THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL WAS MAKING. HOWEVER, ALL CERTIFIED HONDA MECHANICS, DESPITE HAVING TEST DRIVEN THE VEHICLE, FAILED TO EVEN DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE AS ANY PROBLEM. OTHER MECHANICS WHO ARE NOT HONDA CERTIFIED AGREED WITH THE FACT THAT THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL HAS FAILED. DURING ALL PHASES OF DRIVING, THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL RATTLES REGARDLESS OF GEAR SELECTED (INCLUDING NEUTRAL) AND CLUTCH POSITION. EVER SINCE THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL FAILED (17,000 MILES), ESPECIALLY WHEN IT IS REASONABLY WARM OUT (APPROX. 70 DEGREES F), RATTLING PERSISTS, AND THE CHATTERING I MENTIONED BEFORE PERSISTS. THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL CHATTERS EXCESSIVELY, AND IS ACCOMPANIED BY A VERY DELAYED ENGAGEMENT TIME FROM STOP TO A

BOTH OF MY DRL'S ARE OUT ON MY 2016 HONDA ACCORD SPORT. IT HAS A LITTLE OVER 32,000 MILES ON IT. I WILL BE GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW TO SPEAK ABOUT THIS ISSUE. IF THEY TELL ME IT IS NOT COVERED I WILL NEVER BE BUYING ANOTHER HONDA. I PURCHASED THE CAR WITH 28000 MILES ON IT 3 MONTHS AGO. THE DRL'S WENT OUT LAST WEEK. NO EXTREME WEATHER. NO CRASHES. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY COMMON PROBLEM. I HAVE ONLY SEEN ROUGHLY A DOZEN ACCORDS AROUND MY CITY WITH FULLY WORKING DRL'S. IT IS A VERY BAD PROBLEM

DRIVER SIDE LED STRIP WENT OUT AROUND 33K PARTIALLY, DEALERSHIP WANTS TO CHARGE 1K TO FIX IT, STATING IT WILL NEED AN ENTIRE NEED HEADLIGHT. LED STRIPS SHOULD LAST LONGER THAN 2 1/2, 33K MILES.

FRONT HEADLIGHT UNITS HAD THE LED STRIP AT THE BOTTOM AND CONTINUING UP THE SIDE GO OUT. AS THE HEADLIGHT IS ONE COMPLETE UNIT THE LED PORTION CAN NOT BE REPLACED WITHOUT A COMPLETE CHANGE OUT OF THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT UNIT. AN INTERNET SEARCH OF THE PROBLEM SHOWS THAT THE PROBLEM IS VERY COMMON. MADE A CALL TO HONDA CORPORATE CUSTOMER SERVICE GARNERED ME NO HELP. MY HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT SHORTLY AFTER THE WARRANTY PERIOD. COST TO REPLACE EXCEEDS $1,500

CAR SHOOK EVERY LIGHT CAME ON LOST BRAKES AND BURST INTO FLAMES. I USED EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP VEHICLE. I WAS ON RAMP TO EXPRESSEAYLIE ON LONG ISLAND. THANKFULLY WAS RIGHT NEAR SHOULDER AND NOT GOING TO FAST OTHER WISE I WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN ABLE TO CONTROL CAR AND MAY HAVE HIT ANOTHER CAR TREE OR WALL. CAR WAS MELTED AND FIRE DEPT CAME AND PUT IT OUT.

BOTH REAR DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS HAVE FAILED WITHIN FOR 20K MILES OF OWNERSHIP. DEALERSHIP HAS REPLACED BOTH ACTUATORS UNDER WARRANTY.

THE CAR VIBRATION INCREASES WHENEVER THE CAR IS IN DRIVE AND IDLING AT A STOP LIGHT, STOP SIGN, PARKING LOT, ETC. DURING COLD WEATHER TEMPERATURES THE VIBRATION IS EXCESSIVE AND CAN MAKE A RATTLING NOISE COME FROM THE ENGINE. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW CONTINUOUSLY. HONDA DEALERSHIPS REFUSES TO CONSIDER IT AS AN ISSUE.

THE DRL (DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP) INSIDE THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY HAS BURNED OUT. MY HONDA DEALERSHIP HAS ADMITTED THAT THIS IS BECOMING A COMMON FAILURE WITH 2016/17 ACCORDS. IF IT HAPPENS AFTER THE WARRANTY ENDS, IT IS A VERY COSTLY REPLACEMENT ANYWHERE FROM $500. TO $1,000. THE PASSENGER SIDE DRL IN THAT HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AS I AM TOLD IN THESE ACCORDS IS ALSO BURNING OUT IN TIME AFTER THE DRIVERS SIDE DOES, THEREFORE INCURRING ANOTHER HUGE EXPENSE. THESE DRL LIGHTS ARE LED AND SUPPOSED TO LAST FOR SEVERAL YEARS. AN ELECTRICAL FAULT CONTROLLING THESE LAMPS OR SOME KIND OF BAD ENGINEERING DESIGN ARE CAUSING THE FAILURE OF THE DRLS. THESE AUTOMOBILES WERE BUILT WITH THIS LIGHTING SYSTEM TO AID IN SAFETY ON OUR DANGEROUS ROADS AND OWNERS OF THESE AUTOS EXPECT THEM TO STAY WORKING FOR MORE THAN A YEAR, TWO OR THREE WHEN PURCHASING A NEW CAR. THESE LIGHTS JUST BURN OUT WHEN DRIVING AT SOME POINT.

THE DRIVER SIDE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT HAS FAILED. IT IS AN LED STRIP THAT IS LOCATED BELOW THE HEADLAMPS. IT HAS COMPLETELY BURNED OUT IN NO LONGER FUNCTIONS.

ON MAY 29, 2017, I NOTICED AN SLOW OIL LEAKAGE FROM THE TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE SIDE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR AFTER I WENT UNDER THE CAR TO INSPECT BECAUSE THERE WAS A OIL STAIN ON MY DRIVEWAY. THE LEAKAGE WAS LARGE AND IT SPREAD. I NOTICED OIL ON THE BOTTOM SHIELD PROTECTOR OF THE CAR. THE OIL COLOR WAS CLEAR WITH BLACK PARTICLES. THE AREA WAS MOIST. AT THE TIME, MY CAR HAD 6,274 MILES. I CONTACTED HONDA CORPORATION AND I WAS ADVISED TO TAKE THE CAR TO ANY HONDA DEALER FOR INSPECTION. I TOOK THE CAR TO CARSON HONDA WHERE IT WAS CONFIRMED BY THEM THAT THERE WAS AN OIL LEAK BETWEEN TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE. CARSON HONDA COULD NOT PINPOINT EXACTLY WHERE THE LEAK WAS COMING FROM SO THEY PLACED A WHITE SPRAY RESIDUE TO PINPOINT THE LEAK. I RETURNED WITH THE VEHICLE TO LONG BEACH HONDA FOR EVALUATION OF THE LEAK. THEY SAID THEY COULD NOT SEE THE LEAK. I MYSELF NOTICED THAT THAT THE WHITE RESIDUE WAS MOIST AND BROWN AND WHITE RESIDUE FROM SITES WHERE IT WAS NOT LEAKING. HONDA CORPORATION WAS RECONTACTED BECAUSE THE LEAK CONTINUE AND WAS ADVISED THAT I CAN ONLY TAKE TO ONE DEALERSHIP FOR INSPECTION ONCE I START THE CASE. I TOLD THEM I WOULD TAKE IT TO NORM REEVES HONDA AND STAY THERE. AT NORM REEVES HONDA, THEY FOUND TRANS/CVT LEAKING OIL. THEY SAID THE ISSUE WAS REPAIR. ON APRIL 23, 2018, I PERFORMED A MOTOR OIL CHANGE AND I SAW A VERY SMALL OIL LEAKAGE ALONG THE AREA SEPARATING THE TRANS AND ENGINE. LEFT ON TO RE-EVALUATE LATER. ON FEB 18, 2019, I WENT UNDER MY CAR TO INSPECT FOR O

MY 2016 HONDA ACCORD SEDAN SPORT DRIVING RUNNING LIGHT (DRL) HAS BURNED OUT. I HAVE 40,000 MILES AND HIONDA IS TELLING ME TH IS THAT IT CCANOT BE REPLACED AND ASK FOR NE TO PAY $1,200 TO REPLACE THIS PROBLEM.

DRIVER SIDE LED DAYLIGHT RUNNING LIGHT FAILED WITHIN THE FIRST 2 YEARS OF OWNING THE CAR.

RE: NHTSA RECALL ID 19V060; THIS RECALL APPEARS TO ONLY IMPACT V6 HONDA ACCORDS, HOWEVER, I FEEL IT SHOULD BE EXPANDED TO FOUR-CYLINDER AS WELL. I HAVE NOTICED MY CAR ALMOST STALL-OUT ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS SINCE OWNERSHIP. MY CAR HAS ABOUT 57K MILES ON IT, IT HAD 6K WHEN I PURCHASED IT CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED. TYPICALLY, THIS HAPPENS WHEN I'M SITTING IN A PARKED POSITION IN IDLE. BUT, IT HAS ALSO OCCURRED WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN GEAR, START DRIVING AT A LOW-SPEED (DOWN OUR ALLEY), AND I FEEL GAPS IN THE POWER WHEN I PUSH THE GAS. IT WILL ACCELERATE AT A CERTAIN RATE, THEN STOP, EVEN THOUGH I'VE NOT LIFTED MY FOOT OFF THE ACCELERATOR. I WAS UNSURE WHAT THIS WAS RELATED TO (SPARK PLUGS), BUT THIS RECALL HAS MADE ME THINK IT'S ALSO RELATED TO THE FUEL SYSTEM. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON AT LEAST FOUR SEPARATE OCCASIONS, BUT ONLY RELATIVELY RECENTLY (WITHIN THE PAST 6 MONTHS OR SO).

I WAS BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY WHEN THE CAR SEEMED TO SPEED UP EVEN THOUGH I WAS NOT PRESSING THE GAS. I STRUCK MY NEIGHBORS WALL ACROSS THE STREET, BUT NOT VERY HARD. AT THAT POINT I HEARD A ROAR. I DIDN'T UNDERSTAND WHAT IT WAS AT THE TIME, BUT NOW I RECOGNIZE IT AS THE SOUND A CAR MAKE IF YOUR PRESSING THE GAS WITH THE CAR IN PARK OR NEUTRAL. I DECIDED TO PULL BACK INTO MY DRIVEWAY TO ASSESSS THE DAMAGE TO MY CAR. WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN DRIVE IT ROARED FORWARD. I PRESSED THE BRAKE AS HARD AS I COULD BUT THE CAR COULD NOT BE STOPPED IT CRASHED INTO THE BRICK WALL OF MY GARAGE. THE AIRBAG DEPLOYED AND I SUFFERED CUTS AND BRUISES. MY CAR WAS TOTALED.