2017 Chrysler Pacifica complaints

ENGINE FAILURE around 120,000 miles...No detail information why..engine replaced at Jeep Chrysler 8200 Fairforest Rd. Spartanburg SC dealership 0n 02-26-2021. cost $8,461.85. no warranty coverage

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lunged forward, nearly causing a collision with the Pull Over message displayed and the Auto Start/Stop warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer; however, the dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. The dealer determined that the transmission was faulty and replaced the electrical and main batteries; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000. The contact stated that there was no guarantee that the dealership was going to fix all of the issues. The vehicle has since been sold and traded in.

The car stalls out In midst of driving and will not accelerate, than it will with a hard jerk try to accelerate again, at first I thought it was bad gas, then I noticed it more and more which prompted me to look it up and see that it’s a recall for that specific problem that I’m having but my vent number has No recall although I’m experiencing that same issue with my vehicle

Greetings, have a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica that at 43k miles started making a front end noise. The steering wheel now sometimes locks into place for a second or two while turning. Dealership states it needs a needs rack and pinion. Contacted Chrysler as this was a CPO vehicle that supposedly was checked out drastically to be able to receive the CPO warranty. Issue started less than 1k miles after purchase. Chrysler states they will do nothing except warranty the new part which is 1800 alone. I’ve read a lot of people are having this issue. How can a car that the steering wheel locks into place not be considered for a recall?

Engine cylinder 3 misfire. ERROR CODE P303. dealer states cylinder 3 is warped , and will need new engine block. engine only has 49000 miles on it. all maintenance has been performed routinely. Many other 2017 chrysler pacificas have had this issue, and they are reported in the chrysler forums, ultimately needing a new engine at such a young age. NHTSA needs to compel chrysler to do a recall for this issue. A new engine at 50000 miles is ridiculous.

Transmission stalls, doesn’t change from park to, reverse neutral to drive correctly. If I put my vehicle into drive it will go backwards and vise versa not always but a lot and then al a sudden it will jerk and switch to correct gear. It doesn’t accelerate correctly.

While driving 10 mph the engine shut off/stalled locking the steering wheel. The dash read shift to park and the shift knob was flashing. The vehicle would not restart at first and took 3 tries before turning over.

Steering wheel sticks in the middle of a turn. Also steering vibrates at slower speeds. The inconsistent steering makes it dangerous going around corners.

Coolant leaking into cylinder 5

I drive my daughter's van to transport my 3 years old autistic grandson to preschool and I have experienced several problems. 6 times the van died when I accelerated from a stopped position. Once I was turning onto a highway. The passenger-side sliding door opened while I was driving. The passenger front window has opened 2 different times. The lights on the dash go out while driving. The transmission will slam into another gear jerking you. The hatchback door on the back has closed on my daughter and her baby. She has 4 kids 5 and younger that she drives in this van. It scares me to drive it. She has taken it to 2 different places to get it looked at and they couldn't identify the problem. From what I have read this happens a lot with the van.

Our Pacifica's steering will "stick" when coming out of a curve. So far mostly right hand curves but is starting to stick going left slightly. This happens after driving a short amount of time and will continue the entire trip once it starts to malfunciton. It typically happens when doing normal back highway speeds in curves, i.e. 30-65 MPH. I have video evidence of these issues and have shown multiple Chrysler Service techs who say "nothing is wrong, steering is normal." The steering will continue to turn into the direction it was in even after letting go of steering wheel. Steering is supposed to return to center but instead requires an unsafe counter-directional tug of the steering wheel to get it to function properly again until the next curve. The steering wheel does this often when the curve requires the wheel to be held between the 10 o'clock positon and the 2 o'clock position. Multiple complaints online from the 2017 year group of this vehicle also. Chrysler does NOT want to fix the issues so I am resorting to reporting here. I have lost over $2000 in towing, 5 garage trips, and rental vehicle costs due to Chrysler's incompetence. 2 garages were home town type garages who also felt same issue as we did, but said since the steering is electrical, that they could not doing the work but recommended repairs from Chrysler certified garage. Why is it that Chrysler tech's see no wrongs with my vehicle? When someone is injured or dead, will Chrysler then listen?

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated while driving 30 MPH, the vehicle lost motive power however, the engine was still running. There were several unknown warning lights illuminated. The contact was able to pull over on the side of the road and waited for the vehicle to cool down. The contact was able to shut down and restart the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The dealer and the manufacturer were not contacted. The failure mileage was unknown.

Transmission jerks or shudders when pressing accelerator. Has almost caused several accidents.

Today I could not get my fuel door to open. This is frequent and I’ve had it replaced once already. Today I in frustration accidentally popped off the door to the fuel tank and had to go to a dealership to even get it open and get fuel. Then I get home and I try to open the sliding door and it fell off. It was still connected on the track on the bottom. I looked it up and this seems to be a frequent complaint not just mine.

'Engine failure and needs replacement of head gasket. Never overheated. Also excessive "bucking" feels and sounds like you are being rear ended. Causes car to bang and lunge forward. Was repaired once before , dealer stated it was a software issue. Problem continues and gives you back pain and wiplash type sensation as it is a very abrupt and strong occurance. Now engine has failed and needs head gasket repaired for over $3000.

The problem began with an engine light and gave a P0303 code. We made an appointment with the dealer but the starter went out before it could be solved. After repair the service manager noticed a hint of white smoke from the tail pipe. After we received it, we took a short trip on the freeway and had the temperature shoot up and a horrible burning smell came in the cabin. We pulled over and got to a gas station. The coolant reservoir was empty so we filled it. On the way home the engine light came on and the next day we took it to a local shop. They confirmed it was the head gasket leaking coolant into cylinder 5. A code reader pointed to cylinder 3 with only a misfire but in reality you are losing coolant at a high rate. The mechanic will notify our warranty company with their findings. At city speeds the temperature stayed normal, as soon as we entered the freeway it reached the max temperature and smoked the cabin. There was no warning light to signal low coolant. Vehicle was purchased used from a local dealer.

I was driving for about 10 minutes going 40mph when the car dinged, the accelerator stopped working and the steering wheel became stiff and almost impossible to move. The screen said “shift to P to start”. I was able to pull to steering wheel just enough to pull over, and barely missed being in an accident. I put the car in park turned it off and turned it back on and it started again. 1 week prior I took the car to the dealer because the transmission seemed to be jerky and then it wouldn’t start. I got it towed to the dealer and they couldn’t replicate the jerky-ness and said it was because they battery was low and it was a connection issue. I got a new battery and a week later the car shut off while I was driving!

Im also contacting the department of transportation in this matter. I had a tune up at. 80,000 mile . Lots of misfires . Head gasket right head leaking. Cracks dripping inside cylinder. Leaking right head gasket.I have to keep refilling the coolant. Im seeing many recalls but when I put in my vin it shows none .

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated that while his wife was driving approximately 20 MPH, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that the vehicle lost power steering and braking functionality. The contact stated that his wife observed that the shift out of park message was displayed; however, the vehicle was not in park(P) but in drive(D) when the vehicle stalled. The contact's wife had made several attempts to restart the vehicle before the vehicle finally restarted. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or independent mechanic. The vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 75,000.

The LED strip/portion of my driver-side headlight has stopped functioning. It is all inside a closed headlight unit. When starting the vehicle, the LED strip will pulse about 11 times quickly, then remain off. This has been an unsafe defect, because if I am in a lane that is for "Left Turn OR Keep Straight", a vehicle in the intersection across from me could look briefly, see my left LED strip out*, and assume I am turning left -- while in actuality I am keeping straight. This could lead to a head-on collision. *There are many newer vehicles where the LED strip temporarily turns off when that side's turn signal is flashing. Additionally, this can cause a small percentage of uneven brightness. I have not found a way to turn off the working LED Strip on the passenger side without turning ALL the headlights off. It is always on (and always uneven) whenever the vehicle is running. The cost of the repair was quoted by the dealership I bought the van at - an unavoidable $180 diagnostic fee, plus $1,300+ to replace the whole unit, with no other options given. Furthermore, the expensive, "comprehensive wrap" extended vehicle plan the Chrysler dealership sold me refuses to cover the defect. Lastly, the service technician at both Chrysler Dealerships' advise was to "just live with it". This is completely unjust and should be covered by Chrysler, as LEDs should certainly have thousands of working hours left past 5 years, let alone the short 3 years the factory warranty covers. There wer

The new auxiliary battery is not working properly which is causing the start/stop component to not work and the light is illuminated on the dash. Also the car has issues with the Torque Converter Clutch and the crank shaft sensor which disrupts the vehicles performance. The vehicle slows down when trying to accelerate and then speeds back up when the transmission realizes it needs to shift gears. The car then jolts roughly after the gear shift while driving. Sometimes car will not start because the auxiliary battery does not have enough power. Also after shutting car off there will be soft banging noises coming from the middle of the dashboard which lasts for a few minutes.

Steering "sticks" going around long turns like ramps at or above around 30 miles per hour. Requires force to get it to return to center.

Since April 2018 the engine start / stop warning light has been illuminated about 80% of the time despite multiple repair attempts by the dealerships. The vehicle has been brought to the Chrylser dealerships multiple times for an ongoing, intermittent issue in which when attempting to accelerate, the vehicle has rough, delayed shifts and appears to temporarily stall and then jolts forward while your foot is steady on the gas pedal. This issue is getting worse to the point that I'm afraid to drive it. Furthermore, at interstate speeds the transmission will not shift gears sometimes. This causes the van to slow down rapidly especially on hills. This has almost caused accidents when I need to accelerate quickly when entering the highway or merging. It's very slow to accelerate and you have to press the pedal hard, then finally catches up and does a rough jolt. This can happen at any speed, but is especially bad when accelerating or driving on an incline. The check engine light is constantly illuminated. The dealerships appear to reset the transmission to turn off the warning light, but within a few miles of driving home from the dealership, the lights come back on. This has happened the last 2 times we have brought the vehicle in for repair. In addition, intermittently the vehicle will idle very roughly, making a louder than normal noise and shaking. When this happens the check engine light will begin flashing and making a dinging sound.

My vehicle has 87,000 miles on it and has had multiple electronic and start/stop system issues, recently check engine light appeared and dealership stated there was coolant in the cylinders therefore needs a new engine.

Steering "sticks". When going around a slight curve the steering seems to get stuck in a certain position (usually approximately the 10:30 and 1:30 position depending on if curve is to the right or left). When straightening out the direction of the car, one has to "unstick" the position the steering wheel is stuck in by applying addition force to the steering wheel. This additional force could easily lead to an accident possibly causing one to cross over the line and hit an oncoming vehicle, crash into a car in the lane beside them, or go off the road. The problem is intermittent and mechanics have not be able to reproduce while testing. There are no warning lamps, messages or other indicators that this is going to happen or something needs tended to. This issue seems to be right in line with what many others have shared regarding their steering wheel "sticking" when navigating a curve.

Vehicle has intermittent shifting issues. During shifting it may stall/hesitate in shifting to the next gear. During shifting it may slam/hardshift into the next gear. The hesitation in shifting causes a lengthy pause in acceleration and could cause an accident when crossing lanes of moving traffic. The hard shift could cause the vehicle's driver to be startled and react in a way leading to an accident or it can cause car to lunge forward faster than expected causing an accident. The issue is intermittent. There are no warning lamps.

My vehicle stalled without warning while driving. I lost power steering and everything shut down. I had to put it in park which wasn’t registering and shut off my vehicle and restart it for it to correct itself.

At low speeds when shifting into 2nd gear the car slips, rpm's raise and then it suddenly and aggressively jerks into 2nd gear. If the start and stop feature is enabled and you are in a situation where the feature is engaging and disengaging like traffic then after a few of the jerks into 2nd gear it seems the PCM will get discombobulated and display a P0732 error.

My wife pulled out into traffic and the van wouldn't move when accelerater petal was pushed. After pushing it to the floor 3 time it finally began to move.

At low speed, the vehicle will suddenly loose power to the wheels, the engine will then race (causing one to back of the accelerator) and then there is a sudden jerk forward as the powertrain appears to re-engage and normal driving returns. The jerk almost feels like the vehicle has been hit as the driver and passengers' bodies are flung forward. Over the last three years, this problem has occurred at least monthly. When reported to the dealer no diagnostic fault information was found. We are aware of a law suit involving this model vehicle and its crankcase sensor. To our knowledge, our crankcase sensor has not been replaced. Our concern is that the sudden loss of power (and the driver's automatic backing off of the acceleration) could case a vehicle behind us to run into us as the vehicle slows without braking. The power loss often occurs as the vehicle is being accelerated on an entrance ramp or through a corner, but has also occurred during straight line acceleration. The last occurrence was 10/05/2022. The contact has stated that the failure has caused multiple occurrences and almost a rear-ending accident.

Auto Start/Stop function failed, at a red light the car engine auto stopped but when brake was released after the light turned green the car stalled and had to be turned off and back on. It restarted on the first try and the lane sense function turned off when the car restarted but no check engine lights came on. This was unsafe For the car to have to be turned off completely and restarted after a light had turned green and there was traffic waiting behind me. Thankfully the cars behind me were stopped but if someone had been just pulling up behind me and expected me to move forward when the light turned green they may not have stopped fast enough to prevent an accident, which could have put the safety of my children in the back seats at significant risk. On a separate occasion this happened at a stop sign as well with the auto stop function causing the car to not turn back on when the brake was released and the car had to be turned off and back on again. Months prior to either incident the auto stop/start engine light had been on for some time but after a regular service and software update at the dealership the light went off. More recently there have been several issues indicating electrical problems, like the touchscreen turning off and restarting while driving. May 31st 2022 both the main and auxiliary batteries failed and were replaced at the dealership and then Sep 24th 2022 the battery failed again, but was jumped off and worked until Oct. 1st when the battery failed

The engine shuttered/shook upon startup and did so continuously. When shifted into gear, the engine ran rough and never normalized. I am afraid to drive it in case something more serious happens to the engine or causes other damage. I havent dared take it over speeds of 40 mph and only lighktly drove it for a week after the CEL turned on. The check engine light turned on, constant, and took the van to the dealer. Error code is p0305 for the 5th cylinder misfire. My vehicle is available for inspection. My vehicle is at the dealer getting looked at. No one else has looked at it. The day before the CEL turned on, the van engine shuttered for 15 seconds with no error code and operated normally. Then the next morning the CEL turned on and stayed on.

I took my vehicle in to have the computer reset as the recall fix required after my start/stop unavailable warning came up for the second time. First time I had to replace both batteries. About 6 months ago if that. Took it in with the check engine light having popped on saying it's a misfire. Then when we left the stop start failure was still lit up on the dash and there were more codes popping up including one for the shift module which is electronic.. so I believe the electronic system is causing the misfire. I don't even have 100,000 miles and my car is about 5 years old. (2017) We were traveling on a busy highway when the check engine light came on to start with and exited to turn around and head home when the van felt like it was getting sluggish and we luckily were not in the passing lane and were able to make it home safely.

The steering frequently sticks when driving around curves. In order to get the steering unstuck, it requires a slight counter-steer. This counter-steer is very dangerous especially at higher rates of speed. At times, I am forced to counter-steer which results in crossing a double yellow line. I fear that if this problem persists or gets worse, a head on collision will result. No warning lamps have been observed. The problem was noted during the last insurance claim. Left and right strut mounts have been replace and the problem persists.

UNKNOWN. Vehicle stalls out when attempting to start. If started vehicle can drive fine but when stopped at a light it stallls out from time to time requiring you to shut it completely off after putting it in park and restarting. At times it will fail to restart. There is no check engine light or anything for a shop to find the issue.

The vehicle is experiencing rough, late shifts when pressing the gas. The vehicle frequently lunges forward while your foot is steady on the gas pedal, feeling as if you have been hit from behind. It has 36,000 miles on it.

The rear vehicle camera stays on for 2 miuntes after the car changes gear from reverse to drive. It is distracting.

I have noticed for a while off and on that the transmission will jolt when driving. Feels like a hard shifting. It is getting worst to the point that I'm afraid to drive it as feel it may stall. Going up gradual incline have to press hard to get speed up. This can happen at any speed. In town normally driving 35-45 mph. My VIN shows there has been no recalls but this appears to be a known issue via complaints I have sent. Is there a recall? Would dealership know about this issue [XXX]? Is it safe to drive? I have not contacted the dealership yet. Thanks, [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

My Pacifica has random moments where the steering wheel feels really stiff while in motion. So stiff, It’s on the verge of me not being able to steer! It also has random moments where the engine will stall while I am in motion. Sometimes when I press the gas to accelerate it will have a moment of lagging then it will abruptly shift into a higher gear. I’m wondering if there is something seriously wrong and if I should stop driving it. I have four small children and I need reassurance that this vehicle is in fact safe. I’ve been hearing and reading stories of other Pacifica owners dealing with the same problems with severe consequences.

Engine code p0303. Spark plug, intake plenum gasket, and coil replaced but still have the same code. Many other pacificas with the same engine have the same misfire problem that gets fixed by replacing head casket or engine.

Getting sharp Jerks when shifting gear there is problem in transmission, i have seen lot's of people are having same issue when i google & in youtube videos, customers are facing issues & company is taking fat profits & not providing any fix. Just have to keep reseting it that can last depending on your car usage.

We stopped at a rest stop on the NJ Turnpike (Mile Post, 92.9 NJ Tpke, Woodbridge, NJ 07095). After about 10 minutes we returned to the car and noticed a little bit of white smoke coming from the hood (approximate location 12-volt battery). Due to the color of the smoke thought was the radiator. I popped the hood from the car to inspect and at moment about to lift the hood, small flames came from between the hood and windshield. We then backed away from the car and called 911. Within minutes the car was consumed by large flames and the fire department had to extinguish the flame. NJ State Police said the cause would not be investigated due to arson not being suspected. Luckily no cars were parked close to us so no cars were damaged. There were no warning lights or messages in the car prior. The car is a regular engine, but there is a warning for this issue on the hybrid version, so not sure if maybe also affect non-hybrid engines as well. https://www.nhtsa.gov/press-releases/recall-chrysler-pacifica-fire-risk

While idling and in park, entire electrical system failed. No dash lights. No hazard flashers. No dome lights. Start button unresponsive. Parking brake engaged. Attempt to jump had not effect. While undoing 500 amp positive battery terminal to replace battery, connection restored and vehicle behaved normally. Soon after while driving, dash went dark for less than a second but returned to normal and engine kept running. Moments later when came to stop to back into driveway, repeat complete electrical failure. I disconnected all positive battery terminals, cleaned with wire brush and applied terminal protective grease before reconnecting. Vehicle functioned normally. I had recently replaced the battery myself and I suspect subsequent corrosion in terminals caused loss of electrical continuity. At minimum, I recommend a service alert but had this occurred while I was driving on a highway, I would have had no control of the vehicle at all and likely would have been in a serious crash.

2017 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L First, multiple warning messages started pop up randomly with alarm sound. The speedometer started shaking. The shift gear was unable to change. The engine was unable to start at the parking lot. After dealer mechanic at Envision CDJR West Covina in California inspected, there was no log in obd2 record and they said that it seems communication was failed and returned the car without fixing. A month later, it started again and the engine had completely shut off at the middle of intersection. Called AAA and took the car to the same dealer. They said this time that the electric harness was short and the entire harness needs to be replaced with the latest superseded part which cost $1500. 2 weeks later, the same issue start again. Nothing had been fixed and the car will be towed to the dealer to inspect it tomorrow. I'm risking my life and very scare to drive this car. I really suspicious that this dealer has no ability to detect and fix the real cause of the issue. Please help.

Steering wheel sticks when trying to come out of a turn to a straight position. Steering wheel doesn't return to center position without a forced jerk to center. This occurs at all levels of speed and is a hazard on all roads and highways. This is very concerning, because of the possibility of over corrections that could cause an accident or road departure. Chrysler has had a recall for certain models with auto stop installed, but the problem obviously goes beyond those models. A total recall should be published for the faulty steering angle sensor, code C2205-96.

My Pacifica suddenly will not start. I ended up jump-starting the van. Then whenever I stopped, it needed a jump start. This whole ordeal is from a single day. Driving back on the high-way, suddenly van acted weird, all electronics going haywire, various instrument "unavailable" messages started coming, and on the highway Van all systems failed, power steering locked, I pulled over and battery icon (red) came on as well. Car died. I re-jump started it and then drove again with seeing the battery fluctuating between 10.2 v to 16v. Then when we exited the highway, this time, the van stalled right in the middle of the road. No warning, nothing. I feel this is a single point of failure that if the battery is having an issue, (though it seems alternator) was charging it, it could have caused two crashes. I am really concerned. I have had dead batteries in my other cars but nothing like that where all instruments start acting weird. Also few other weird things happening during this time: passenger windows will come down automatically again and again and again while driving. All different security features sporadically say unavailable, airbag, esc, ACC, FCW etc.. This needs to be looked at as a "Single Point of Failure" issue.

My sliding door came off the hinge and shatter my backwindow. The door was hesitating and would not close it stood stuck. When I pulled it the back window shattered. I have no warranty it's now an out of pocket expense. My airbag light is on when I took it to the dealership for a diagnostic they said I was missing a piece that I actually found and when I told them I found it they said it's damage and they can't do anything to help.

When driving above 25-30 mph, the steering often "sticks" when coming out of a turn. This occurs when the steering wheel is at approximately the 10:30 position during left hand turns and the 1:30 position during right hand turns. The steering wheel "sticks" in these positions and will not return to center on its own, but requires considerable additional effort by the driver to overcome this stickiness when coming out of the turn. This problem has been reported numerous times on the Chrysler Pacifica forum on the Internet with no adequate explanation coming from Chrysler or others. This problem reportedly occurs on both gas and hybrid versions of the minivan, and is considered by all who report it as a significant safety risk to drivers and passengers alike. There are no warning messages. The dealer has no recommendations other than "possibly" an extremely expensive fix involving replacement of the rack and pinion mechanism and/or steering column replacement, but with no guarantees that this would solve the problem. The minivan has over 88,000 miles on it currently but this has been occurring since approximately the 50,000 mile point.

The engine overheated due to a coolant leak and faulty head gaskets that need replaced at 62k miles. A related cyclinder 4 misfire has been occurring since 58k miles. Chrysler refuses to cover the repair under the 60k Powertrain warranty and does not acknowledge the many reports of head gaskets failing between 50-80k miles.

While driving, the motor began to vibrate and lose power as if not firing on all cylinders, and acted as if it was going to stall in the lane of travel, causing me to have to pull off to the shoulder abruptly, striking a mailbox. The vehicle does not display any trouble lights or show any error codes on diagnostic equipment at an independent garage. Vehicle idles roughly.