2016 Chevrolet Cruze complaints

Around 150,000 miles I had the code p0011 the dealership did work but code kept coming back on. So I was told I needed a cylinder head. I wanted a 2nd opinion so I took it to another dealership and was told I need to replace the engine. So July of 2021 engine was replaced. Around 09/2021 cylinder head was replaced with other work done. Now code p0011 came back on again and it’s in the show getting another cylinder head around 188,000 miles. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? It was inspected by Vann York Chevrolet in High Point, NC and Modern Chevrolet in Winston Salem, NC. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? Yes it have been. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? Yes, I do feel like I was at risk due to engine surge and or reduced power at times. What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? Yes an inspection can be done at any time. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? Prior to this I kept my car service and I do have receipts. Check engine light came on 04/2021 with code p0011. Then on 07/2021 is when I got my car back with the remanufactured engine. So a 1st cylinder head came with the engine, the around 09/2021 2nd cylinder head, and now 3rd cylinder head of this remanufactured engine. Th

2 issues. 1st is the PCV system. PCV valve will fail regularly 1-3 years. This requires a new intake manifold and valve cover possible new hose and possible sensor replacement. Can cause stability and traction control failure. 2nd is the engine's head gasket. Between 60-70k miles these vehicles get blown head gaskets. Due to this failure, you could experience a total engine failure which will completely shut down all vehicle functions. If not properly observed this vehicle will not only have a complete failure. It will need an entire new engine due to cracked block and head or warped block and head. If it becomes warped you will need to machine both the block and head and or replace the entire engine long before it reaches 100k miles. Rendering the vehicle absolutely useless. Coolant issues with these vehicles are bad as well. Even if all these issues get fixed in a timely manner you will still most likely have a blown head gasket as I did. Engine failures on a busy highway are a big safety concern.

While at red light, stop signs, or transitioning turns, the engine shuts off and does not restart. Sometimes it shuts down when driving at extremely low speeds. This is dangerous because I have had to push the car while transitioning in multipile lane intersections. Luckily others stop and help me push the car to shoulder or convenience gas stations. The battery and spark plugs are new, and the car has plenty of fuel.

The turbo is messed up my car would not pull when stepping on the gas. Almost got in an accident on the freeway and hood started smoking. Spoke to a mechanic and said it was due to the turbo charger

Was at a red light and my car shut off. It started back up and I was able to get home. I am now afraid my car will just stop while driving and I will crash and die

The contact owns a 2016 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that on multiple occasions while driving over 50 MPH, the A/C unit turned off independently and the instrument panel displayed a message that the engine was overheating. Additionally, the engine power reduced message was displayed. The contact stated that after receiving message alerts on the instrument panel, the vehicle decelerated to 15-20 MPH. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the failure reoccurred on several occasions and the instrument panel displayed message alerts for the engine overheating and the engine power being reduced. The contact attempted to call local dealers but was not successful. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 106,000.

The car randomly shuts off when driving. It also has problems with accelerating when the AC system is turned on.

My 2016 Chevy Cruise heating and cooling system failed. Car engine over heats causing engine to stop in mid drive. Hoses (main) and connections to heating and cooling systems faulty. Main hose to cooling system faulty (dry rotted ).

The contact owns a 2016 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that on several occasions, a strange noise could be heard while the brake pedal was depressed. The contact stated while accelerating above 35 MPH, the Service Stabil Trak and powertrain control module (PCM) warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the powertrain control module (PCM) failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was notified of the failure. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 92,000.

Vacume pump failure causing brakes to become very difficult to apply. Pump also brakes inside the valve cover. Causing timing issues and possible camshaft damage.

As of January of 2022 my Chevy Cruz Limited LTZ engine was starting to over heat. I would pull the car over and turn off the engine and allow it to cool down before starting it up again, the last of February 2022 my engine had threw a head gasket, the machanic that I took it to confirmed that it was a head gasket and had told me that the motor had done this before due to the fact that the head gasket had already been replaced by a previous owner at one point in time, it had kept getting hot while I was trying to get it to the shop so I was having to pull over every few mins causing a safety risk for myself due to the fact I was having to constantly find a place to pull over, I reported the problem to my insurance company but they unfortunately did not cover what they considered wear and tear of the vehicle, there were no warning lamps, messages, or symptoms prior to the engine overheating, I took the car to the dealership for it's routine oil change and fixed the oil leak they found but did not fix. I also kept check on the oil level and made sure it wasn't low. I kept antifreeze in it as well and made sure that it didn't run low on that either considering both fluids could cause engine problems. It is now July of 2022 and I still do not have my Cruz running due to the fact I'm having to replace the head gasket or get a new motor if the engine that is in it already over heats again...

The water pump leaks which will cause the vehicle to heat up. There is a recall on the same vehicles for prior years and it's the same parts. For some reason later years weren't added to the recall, but they are also defective. It is available for inspection, but I need to get it fixed quickly before it harms my engine. It is a 2016 model and have had it fixed once already while under warranty. I have not had any warning lights yet, but I noticed it leaking like the first time it happened. It puts my safety at risk if I get stranded somewhere because I can't drive my car home. I live in the desert and it's 100 degrees out most of the time which can cause heat stroke quickly. I have not taken it to the dealer, but I would rather use non dealer parts at this point or I will have to do this possibly again in a couple of years when it fails again. The vehicle has not been inspected yet, but it's the same thing as the first time. Same place.

My car was brought to the dealership around December of 2021because every time I stop at a red light or stop sign the auto stop would cut the car completely off. The dealership said it was because the throttle body needed cleaning out. That is not the case because I can be driving and the car will cut off out of nowhere while driving. Also at times the car seems as if it doesn’t want to crank.

Vehicle is leaking coolant I've had it fixed and continue to have issues with it. When I go to add coolant it sounds like it is boiling in the motor and car is becoming very hot and smokes from the motor. Was driving through town heard a hissing noise and somehow coolant had sprayed all over the hood and windshield of my car.

Issue has been reported by other owners, code PIP5558C Around 60k miles, clutch pedal started sticking to the floor and not returning unless manually lifted. By 118k miles issue had worsened to the point that car was no longer driveable. Clutch master cylinder was damaged/degraded, as well as clutch slave. Brake system lifespan was likely shortened, and I luckily didn't have a complete brake failure as has happened with others.

The car started smoking from under the hood and completely stopped and the mechanic I took the vehicle to told me that the engine is done and needs to be replaced at an estimated cost of $3,700.00. Luckily, this did not happen on the highway and I was able to get the car pulled into a retail space parking lot and get it towed to the mechanic. Wile driving, the low oil light flashed on for a moment a couple of times. Not long after that, the vehicle stalled. The mechanic changed the oil but the car was smoking with white smoke billowed out the exhaust. The vehicle has just under 114,000 miles and we have already put much money into this car to get the check engine light fixed.

The engine and engine parts of my vehicle malfunctioned and caused excessive oil leakage. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request. The safety of my family is put at risk because: - The vehicle engine sputters while driving. - The engine leaks oil excessively, smokes, and lets off an oil burning odor. - The radio screen blanks out frequently. All of the issues combined worry me because I have had the vehicle serviced multiple times and the safety issues still exist. The vehicle was serviced by the manufacturer. The problems found were: engine concern for squeaking drive belt, front timing cover leaking oil, and camshaft cover leaking. The vehicle had special coverage warranties with the manufacturer for some of the parts that needed to be repaired. There were not any warning lamps, messages, or indicators for the engine issues. I encountered the engine smoking, the vehicle sputtering, a strong odor of oil burning, and excessive oil leakage spots in my driveway. These issues made me take the vehicle in. The engine light did not light up for the issues. No indicator light(s) were on when the vehicle was taken in to be serviced. The vehicle was serviced and the faulty parts were replaced. However, the same issues are present and have not subsided after being serviced, replaced, and or repaired. I worry that the engine issues for my vehicle can not be corrected and that select engine parts should be recalled.

There was a recall on leaking antifreeze for previous Chevy Cruze years but that is also happening with my 2016 Cruze in the same way. My car would not warm up in the cold and would not clear the sight of my windshield over the ice, I waited about an hour for the sun due to lack of heat. While on my way my car then overheated while on the highway which created an even bigger safety issue. The problem has been recalled before on different Cruze year types, my mom had a 2013 Cruze with the same issue I am experiencing. It has not been inspected yet by those listed but when I add more coolant it is empty within an hour of just sitting there. The only light is when it was overheating, but I’ve been having to refill my antifreeze repeatedly and unsure as to why until I discovered the previous recall information and it sounded like my exact issue.

Cracked Thermostat Housing Unit. No sensors went off, and smoke started pouring out from under the hood obscuring vision. Vehicle is already under repair so not available for inspection. The Thermostat Housing Units, after first repair taking the one that came with the vehicle, have also all cracked, and has had to be replaced multiple times.

Both side airbags deployed without crash or damage to the vehicle. Passenger and driver seatbelts locked. Front airbags did not deploy.

1st of all the motor was running g great! Then all of a sudden it started running rough and shaking. Was driving on the highway at 65 mph.no warni g lights or anything. Then a warning light came on for the brakes and it was hard to stop. The vacuum pump went out for the brakes and almost ended up in the ditch. Well put a vacuum pump on it and that fixed that problem but it was missing like crazy. Had it checked out and here the #1cylinder piston broke apart. Now it needs a motor. Almost cost me my life on that one.Motor is not cheap and don't know if it is worth it. I have been reading alot on them and people are having to change motors at 8,000 miles and sometimes twice in the same car before 18,000 miles. Don't you think there is something wrong with that?

PCM failure Almost had numerous accidents. The problem has not been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or service center. It has been reproduced by other people after explaining the issue. Also has been reproduced on another Gm product around the same year. Vehicle has been inspected by an independent shop, the only thing that was found was excessive brake wear in rear. Problem appeared when I first started driving the car. It is definitely a software issue. Software should be polling the wheel speed sensor while in engine off. There were no idiot lights. Recently, on a private road that had an inclination, I reproduce the problem. The vehicle obtained at least two miles an hour rolling backwards for about a minute. The speedometer did not register any speed. I did not want to test this any longer for fear of engine starting back up and damaging the transmission. Approaching a stop softly applying the brakes with an incline, whether at a controlled intersection or in traffic, when the auto engine shutdown activates, the vehicle rolls backwards.

I have a Chevy Cruze LT 1.4 l turbo engine and it has an exhaust leak by the manifold or the Cadillac converter is not working, a mechanic we took it to has confirmed that one of the hoses going into the Cadillac converter burst due to the Cadillac converter not working properly today is October 2nd it happened three days ago from today I have talked to other Chevy Cruze owners and confirmed the day also had the same problem I heard there is a recall for this problem on 2016 Chevy cruise so I would like to know if my car is on that recall list so I can go and get it fixed I have $133,000 miles on my car so it's not under the manufacturer's warranty anymore it is a very pricey repair which I do not have the money for due to the pandemic as we all know so please contact me through my email you guys have onfile and also because of this problem I cannot work I use my car for work,My car is a 2016 Chevy Cruze LT with a 1.4 L turbo engine thank you

The driver's windshield wiper is not working properly. It seems that the wiper has become loose. I live in Florida and it rain a majority of the time, so this is a issue when it comes to driving everywhere.

The contact owns a 2016 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that after depressing the button to raise the front driver’s side window, a mechanical motor noise was present, and the window would not move and remained stuck in the halfway opened position. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the front passenger’s side window regulator was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer and local dealer were not yet notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 83,000.

My car and 2 other Chevrolet Cruzes that I know of have had overheating problems with the engines.

Coolant system. I had to pull over on a major I-70 coming into Kansas City. A major extremely dangerous and busy area. I had to get off on exit 69South. It was 100 degrees outside. was not able to let the car cool down all of the way. I would wait for 45 mins, drive two miles and have to pull over again. Check engine light came on. Overheating alarm came on with turn off ac. Which I did and turned on the heater. AGAIN, it was 100 degrees outside. I was without a vehicle in a dangerous part of town.

When slowing down car just dies out. Not check engine light on and no codes are being thrown. It’s very dangerous when your on the freeway In stop and go traffic and your car just dies with out warning. Everything freezes up the steering and brakes. Thankful car starts back up after a few minutes

The contact owns a 2016 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated while driving 60 mph, the hydroplane warning light illuminated and the vehicle independently downshifted and decelerated to 50 mph. The contact stated that a couple of weeks later, the contact was driving at 65 mph and the vehicle independently downshifted and decelerated to 55 mph. The contact then stated that while driving at various speeds, the air bag warning light illuminated causing the vehicle to stall. The vehicle was not taken to a local dealer or independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 109,911.

I was driving my 2016 Chevy Cruze and a light appears om my dashboard saying the my engine was overheating. My mechanic was booked, and recommended a shop down the road. I brought my car in on 4/8/21. The Coolant housing and hose. Then on May 27th I was driving to the store and I received the same message that my car was overheating. I brought it to my mechanic after the long holiday weekend. He says it needs another coolant hose. My research shows that this is not uncommon in these cars. Isn't there something that can be done? I bought the car used in 2018. I have 97k miles on it, and I am still making payments.

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT ON AND I PAID $940.00 TO TRY TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM WAS NOT FIXED AND THE QUOTE TO FIX THE PROBLEM WAS ESTIMATED TO BE APPROXIMATELY $2,000.00. I CAN DRIVE THE CAR, BUT I WILL NOT PASS THE OH EMISSIONS TEST UNTIL IT IS FIXED.

I WAS DRIVING, 55 MILES AND HOUR ON HIGHWAY. I WAS WAS STRUCK ON THE DRIVER FRONT SIDE BY ANOTHER VEHICLE AND THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED. UPON DEPLOYMENT THE EXTREME FORCE OF THE CARS BAGS KNOCKED ME OUT THEREBY CAUSING ME TO RUN OFF THE ROAD. .

MY 2016 CHEVROLET CRUZE IS ONLY 4 YEARS OLD. I HAD TO REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT AND AFTER A INSPECTION. THE (VVT) VARIABLE VALVE TIMING WHEN TRYING TO START MY CAR, IT WOULD CLICK BUT WOULDN'T TURN OVER ALL LIGHTS AND POWER WAS ON BUT CAR WOULD NOT START. ALSO, MY ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AND AND THE METAL WIRE RING INSIDE OF THE STARTER WAS COMPLETELY BROKEN IN HALF.AND HAD TO BE REPLACED

LEAKING OIL RIGHT BENEATH THE DIPSTICK BUT NOT DIRECTLY OUT OF THE DIPSTICK. COMING FROM UNDER THE PLASTIC ECO TECH COVER

I HAVE A 2016 CHEVY CRUSE WITH 70,000 MILES AND AS OF 3-4-2021 I HAVE A CRACK ENGINE BLOCK. MY CAR AS BEEN SERVICED ACCORDING TO BOOKLET.I HAVE CALLED DANVERS CHEVROLET WHERE CAR WAS PURCHASED AND THEY ARE UNWILLING TO HELP. THIS IS A SERIOUS ISSUE AND I AM DISAPPOINTED THAT HERB CHAMBERS SELLS CUSTOMERS CARS THAT BREAK DOWN AFTER WARRANTY. CUSTOMER SERVICE AND MODEL OF CAR WAS DECISIVE IN MY PURCHASE OF THIS VEHICLE. MY EXPECTATIONS OF HERB CHAMBERS CUSTOMER SERVICE IS A LETDOWN. I COULD HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY INJURED WHILE DRIVING WHEN THE CAR DIED IN THE BOURNE ROTARY

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON I PAID OUT OF POCKET FOR 3 DIFFERENT DIAGNOSTICS FOR THEM TO SAY THEY FIXED IT AND STILL HAVE THIS PROBLEM. CAR GOES IN STABILITY TRACK AND REDUCED ENGINE POWER WONT DRIVE OVER 5MPH THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM I SEE NUMEROUS OTHER PEOPLE WITH THIS CAR ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT WHY ARE YOU GUYS NOT INVESTIGATING OR RECALLING THIS ENGINE BECAUSE IT'S CLEARLY A MANUFACTURER ISSUE

SECOND REPORT I'M MAKING ABOUT THIS CARS ENGINE PROBLEMS THE STABILITY TRACK AND REDUCED ENGINE POWER CAUSED MY CAR TO STOP ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND I ALMOST HIT SOMEONE ! PLEASE INVESTIGATE INTO THIS ISSUE THEIR ARE SEVERAL PEOPLE UNDER THIS POST FROM DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD SAYING THE SAME THING

WHEN IM DRIVING AND STOP AT A LIGHT IT SOUNDS LIKE MY CAR IS GONNA DIE IT SPUTTERS AND ALMOST DIES AND NOW ITS DYING WHEN I STOP AT A LIGHT BUT CRANKS RIGHT BACK UP AFTER IT DIES THERE WAS A ERG VALVE RECALL WE GOT FIXED BUT IT SEEMS TO BE THE SAME ISSUE AS BEFORE

THE VEH STARTED WITH A SMALL WATER LEAK, THEN A VERY LARGE LEAK. FOUND OUT THAT THE WATER PUMP WAS BAD AND THE THERMOSTAT WAS BAD. THE WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID HOLDER HAS A LARGE CRACK IN IT. THE VEHICLE STILL NEEDS MAINTENANCE ON IT AND CAN'T AFFORD IT. NO PHOTOS TO SHARE BUT RECEIPTS OF MY BILL TO REPLACE IT

MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAD COME ON I GOT IT CHECKED AT MY MECHANIC BUT CAN'T SEEM TO FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM. WHEN YOU FIRST START THE IGNITION IT FEELS LIKE THE CAR IS BOBBING BACK AND FOURTH. ALSO AFTER THE AUTO STOP GOES ON AND YOU TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE BRAKE AND PUT IT ON THE GAS PEDAL THE CAR STUTTERS. I ALSO HAD A PROBLEM WHEN I WAS COMING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY IT STALLED AND LOST ALL POWER STEERING I HAD TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON AGAIN.

VEHICLE WAS SHAKING PROFUSELY ON LOCAL STREET, DID NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 5 MPH, AND HAD A 'STABILITRAK' ERROR CODE. BARELY MADE IT BACK TO THE DRIVEWAY. HAD IT TOWED TO A DEALERSHIP AND CONFIRMED PISTON/CYLINDER PROBLEM, WHICH WILL REQUIRE A COMPLETELY NEW ENGINE. BOUGHT IT USED IN 2018 (WITH 54K MILES) FROM A DEALER, BUT WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF SERVICE BULLETIN PIP5421; AND THE MFG'ERS WARRANTY IS NO LONGER VALID AS THERE IS OVER 90K MILES (BUT STILL WITHIN 5 YEARS). DEALER INDICATES IT WILL COST $9500 TO PUT NEW ENGINE IN, AND WE STILL OWE ON IT....WORTHLESS CAR!

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. TOOK CAR TO DEALERSHIP TO GET CHECKED. THE PURGE VALVE, WATER PUMP, AND CAM ACTUATOR SEALS ALL WENT BAD.

BEFORE LEAVING WORK, I TURNED ON MY CAR FOR ABOUT TEN MINUTES TO WARM UP. WHEN I ENTERED THE CAR TO LEAVE WORK, I WAS OVERCOME WITH THE SMELL OF WHAT I THOUGHT WAS GASOLINE. I DROVE LIKE NORMAL ON MY WAY HOME, ROLLING THE WINDOW DOWN TO GET RID OF THE SMELL, AND I ALSO THOUGHT SOME SMOKE OR HAZE MAY HAVE ENTERED MY CAR, ALTHOUGH IT WAS DARK AND FOGGY SO I CANNOT BE SURE. WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, MY CAR'S (2016 CHEVY CRUZE) OIL LIGHT CAME ON. IT GAVE ME AN URGENT MESSAGE OF "LOW OIL PRESSURE- STOP ENGINE" AND BEEPED CONTINUOUSLY, WHILE A THICK SMELL OF OIL FILLED THE CAR. I AM VERY LUCKY THAT I WAS NEAR AN EXIT AND I PULLED OFF IMMEDIATELY INTO A GROCERY STORE PARKING LOT. THE CAR HAD TO BE TOWED AND LATER THAT WEEK, I LEARNED THAT MY CAR HAD LEAKED 3.3 QUARTS OF OIL, LEAVING ME WITH 1.25 QUARTS. THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT I WAS LUCKY I PULLED OFF WHEN I DID, AND THAT THERE WAS A SERIOUS RISK OF ENGINE DAMAGE. HE ALSO LET ME KNOW THAT ANOTHER CAR, SAME MAKE AND MODEL, WAS ALSO IN THE SHOP WITH THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM, AND THAT THAT CAR'S ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED. I QUOTE FROM MY $500+ INVOICE, "THE TURBO OIL FEED PIPE WAS LEAKING AT THE OIL COOLER DUE TO POOR SEALING. VEHICLE WAS 3.3 QUARTS LOW ON FLUID."

I PURCHASED A 2016 CHEVROLET CRUZE WITH AN AUTO STOP FEATURE. THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED AS A USED VEHICLE IN AUGUST OF 2019. AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE, IT HAD 70,000 MILES ON IT. LESS THAN TWO MONTH INTO HAVING THE VEHICLE, THE CAR STARTED SHUTTING OFF EACH TIME I CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE ONLY WAY TO GET THE CAR MOVING AGAIN WAS BY PLACING IT IN PARK AND RESTARTING THE VEHICLE. THIS ISSUE OCCURS IN ALL SETTINGS INCLUDING CITY STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. I HAVE TO BE IN TRAFFIC IN ORDER FOR THE ISSUE TO PRESENT ITSELF ON THE HIGHWAY. THE ISSUE PRESENTS ITSELF ON THE STREET ANYTIME I STOP AT A LIGHT, STOP SIGN, OR YIELD TO ONCOMING TRAFFIC. IT HAS DONE THIS HUNDREDS OF TIMES TO DATE. I TOOK THE CAR TO A CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP IN OCTOBER OF 2019 SHORTLY AFTER THE ISSUE BEGAN. A REPRESENTATIVE EXPLAINED THAT THIS HAPPENED BECAUSE THE AUTO-STOP COMPONENT WASN'T ABLE TO RECEIVE ENOUGH POWER TO STAY ON. I HAD THE COMPONENT REPLACED OUT OF POCKET, SINCE MY WARRANTY DIDN'T COVER. THE SAME DAY I DROVE THE VEHICLE HOME, THE ISSUE PERSISTED. SINCE THEN, I HAVE ALSO HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED. AS OF NOVEMBER 2020, THE CAR IS STILL EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUES, COUPLED WITH A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT THAT COMES ON AND GOES OFF EACH TIME RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE TECHNICIANS HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE THIS VEHICLE'S ISSUE AFTER MULTIPLE VISITS. MUCH OF MY TIME AND MONEY HAS BEEN WASTED TRYING TO FIX A VEHICLE WITH NO ACTIVE RECALLS. THIS IS ALSO THE SECOND TIME I AM FILING A COMPLAINT WITH TH

MY CARS CAM SHAFT WAS REPLACED SIX MONTHS AGO, AND IT WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. NOW I'M HAVING A BUNCH OF OTHER ISSUES SOME OF THE PROBLEMS ARE BECAUSE THE CHEVY DEALERSHIP, THAT REPLACED IT MY CAM SHAFT WHEEL THEY HAD TO TO TAKE PARTS OFF AND BACK ON TO FIX IT NOW THOSE PARTS THEY TOOK OFF AND NOW BAD PLUS OTHER BOTTOMS UP. IT WON'T KEEP COOLANT. AND KEEPS OVER HEATING, AND THE DEALERSHIP, IS TRYING TO OVER PRICE ME ON PARTS THAT I CAN GET, FOR A FRACTION OF THE PRICE THERE CHARGING ME, AND NOW I'M WITH OUT A VEHICLE UN LESS I COME UP WITH OVER $1400, I FEEL LIKE THEY PURPOSELY DIDN'T PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER RIGHT, CUZ THEY NEW THEY COULD GET AND MAKE MORE MONEY OUT OF IT BECAUSE SOME OF THE PARTS ARE STILL UNDER WARRANTY. PLUSE WHEN THEY FIXED IT THE FIRST TIME. THEY CHARGE FOR A NEW BELT ON THE CAR AND I ALREADY HADE ONE WHICH WASN'T MINE TO START WITH, IT BELONG TO A FRIEND OF MINE, AND THE STOLE IT AND PUT IT ON MY CAR THEN CHARGE ME FOR IT. BE CAUSE IT WAS IN THE BACK SEAT, MY VEHICLE IS SITTING AT THE SHOP NOW. IT'S AT LEACH-WILSON CHEVROLET-BUICK IN SHELBYVILLE ILLINOIS, THERE GOING TO START WORKING ON IT ON JANUARY 11TH, THAT'S WHAT THEY SAID ANYWAYS AND I DON'T FEEL SAFE WITH THEM DOING THAT BUT I HAVE NO OTHER OPTION RIGHT NOW. AND I'M BEING FORCED TO PAY OVER $1400. PLUS THEY STOLE PARTS OUT OF MY CAR I WAS HOLDING FOR A FRIEND AND I HAD IN THE CAR AND THEY USE THEM AND CHARGED THE WARRANTY FOR THOSE PARTS AND IT WASN'T THEIRS TO SELL LIKE THAT

MY CAR IS PARKED LOOKS LIKE A RAINBOW COLOR IS COMING OUT FROM UNDER THE ENGINE. IT LOOKS LIKE WATER FROM A DISTANCE UNTIL YOU GET CLOSER. I HAVE NOTIFIED THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT IT AND HE TELLS ME THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO

THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BLEW OUT IT'S SENSOR. NOT LIKE IT JUST WENT OUT, BUT SOME HOW PRESSURE BUILT UP AND BLEW IT OUT OF THE MANIFOLD. THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT THE REPRESENTATIVE AT THE DEALERSHIP JUST TOLD ME OVER THE PHONE. CAR IS AT THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT BECAUSE OF THE ONGOING ISSUES WITH THE TURBO AND THE MISSING BOLTS AND THE FACT THAT THIS ENGINE WAS OBVIOUSLY A FAULTY BUILD, AS GM HAS ALREADY ACKNOWLEDGED. I AM TERRIFIED TO DRIVE THIS CAR AND I STILL OWE ON IT. SO NOW WITH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BLOWING UP AND A LEAKING VALVE COVER....I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW GM ISN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR GETTING THESE CARS OFF THE ROAD. I AM SO AFRAID OF BLOWING UP WHILE DRIVING THIS CAR I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO AND I BELIEVE IN KARMA AND DO NOT WANT TO TRADE IT IN FOR FEAR OF RISKING SOMEONE ELSE'S LIFE. I'VE OWNED A LOT OF VEHICLES IN THE 30 YEARS I'VE BEEN DRIVING AND AM THANKFUL I'VE NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BUT GOOD LORD, HOW DO I FIX THIS?

IN SEPTEMBER, MY DAUGHTERS 4 SIDE AIRBAGS BLEW OUT WHILE DRIVING. SHE WASN'T IN ANY COLLISION OR ACCIDENT, THEY JUST BLEW OUT AND THE PIECE THAT BLEW OUT ON HER SIDE, HIT HER IN THE HEAD TOO.IN MAY, LESS THAN A WEEK AFTER WE GOT THE CAR, SHE WAS GOING UP AROUND A CURVE, SOMEONE CAME AROUND THAT CURVE ON HER SIDE, HITTING HER DRIVER SIDE MIRROR, CRACKING,AND BREAKING THE GLASS. SHE WAS RAN OFF THE ROAD BY THE OTHER DRIVER, AND SHE DID GO OVER ROCKS, SCRATCHING THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR, WE PUT IT ON A LIFT AND THERE WASN'T ANY DAMAGE, JUST SCRATCHED. AFTER HER AIRBAGS DEPLOYED, I WAS TOLD TO CONTACT GENERAL MOTORS RIGHT AWAY, SO I DID. I TOLD THEM WHAT HAPPENED, AND MADE SURE I TOLD THEM WHAT HAPPENED IN MAY,THE LADY THAT TOOK THE CLAIM, SAID THAT'S FINE, SHE WILL MAKE SURE ALL THAT WAS NOTATED! NOW, FROM THE TIME I CALLED GM, IT TOOK THEM A WEEK TO CONTACT ME, WHICH IS UNACCEPTABLE. I EVEN CALLED BACK IN A COUPLE DAYS DEMANDING SOMEONE CONTACT ME RIGHT AWAY. I WAS TOLD IT WAS A MECHANICAL ISSUE, AND IT NEEDS TO BE DEALT WITH. I WAS TOLD BY A GM DEALERSHIP, THAT IT IS VERY OBVIOUS IT WAS MECHANICAL, FAULTY AIRBAGS. IT TOOK ALMOST 3 WEEKS FROM THE TIME I CALLED GM FOR THEM TO GET IT TO A DEALERSHIP AND GET THEIR INVESTIGATOR OUT TO LOOK AT IT. SHE CAN'T DRIVE THE CAR, THE SEATBELTS DON'T WORK AND AIRBAGS DEPLOYED,SO I REFUSE TO LET HER DRIVE IT. SO FROM THE TIME THE INVESTIGATOR CAME OUT AND LOOKED AT IT, RECORDED HIS FINDINGS, IT WAS ANOTHER 2 WEEKS.MY DAUGHTER CALLED THE LADY AT

NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE SHORTED OUT, FAILING A MAIN FUSE AND THE STARTER. CAR TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING DOWN I-5. WE WERE ABLE TO GET THE CAR TO RESTART ONE TIME, THEN ONCE WE WERE TO A SAFE PLACE TO PULL OVER TURNED OFF THE CAR AND THE ELECTRICAL IN THE CAR WOULD NOT TURN OFF (STEREO, LIGHTS, ETC..) PUSH BUTTON START IN CAR. ONCE WE FINALLY GOT EVERYTHING TO TURN OFF THE CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN AND WAS TOWED TO THE REPAIR SHOP.

PASSINGER FRONT SEAT IS JAMMED AND CAN NOT BE MOVED FORWARD OR BACKWARD