THE RIGHT HEADLIGHT HAD TO BE REPLACED. IT WOULD TURN OFF AND IF I TURNED THE LEVER ON AND OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING IT WOULD COME ON FOR A WHILE. ON A DARK NIGHT IT WAS DANGEROUS. I REPLACED THE RIGHT HEADLIGHT AND IT COST A TOTAL OF $229.55 WHICH I THOUGHT WAS OUTRAGEOUS. NOW THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT HAS GONE OUT TOO. I MIGHT HAVE TO DRIVE IT ONLY IN DAYLIGHT UNLESS I CAN FIND A CHEAPER WAY TO REPLACE THE HEADLIGHT. I WAS STOPPED BY THE POLICE FOR THE FIRST HEADLIGHT OUT, BUT GIVEN A WARNING. I BOUGHT THE CAR TO SAVE MONEY BUT HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT COSTS ARE WAY TOO MUCH IN MY ESTIMATION. *TR
2007 Toyota Prius complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2007 record →
RIGHT HEADLIGHT WILL GO OFF. RECYCLING THE SWITCH WILL USUALLY RELIGHT THE LAMP. *TR
WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, SUDDENLY NOTICED SLIGHT JOLT AND ILLUMINATION OF VARIOUS WARNING LIGHTS IN THE INSTRUMENT PANEL (CHECK ENGINE, LARGE WARNING SIGN, EMERGENCY CAR DANGER SIGN, VSC SIGN). HYBRID SYSTEM CEASED FUNCTIONING, LEADING THE CAR TO DRIVE USING GASOLINE ENGINE ONLY. DEALERSHIP DETERMINED HYBRID ELECTRIC WATER PUMP WAS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING, NEEDED REPLACEMENT AT COST OF $570. *TR
ON JUNE 17, 2014 LONGO TOYOTA SERVICE CONSULTANT STATED THE INVERTER WATER PUMP PART #04000-32528 NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AT A PART COST OF $146. THIS SAME INVERTER WATER PUMP WAS REPLACED AT LONGO ON MARCH 6, 2011. *TR
I HAVE BEEN TOLD A FEW TIMES OVER THE LAST COUPLE OF MONTHS NOW THAT WE HAD A HEADLIGHT OUT IN OUR PRIUS. I WOULD LATER GO BACK AND INVESTIGATE, FLIPPING THE LIGHTS BACK ON TO CHECK. BUT THE LIGHTS WERE ON FULL BLAST, NO PROBLEMS. I DISMISSED THIS AS PEOPLE NOT SEEING THINGS CORRECTLY. OBVIOUSLY THE HEADLIGHTS WERE WORKING, THAT IT UNTIL WE GOT ON THE INTERSTATE LAST NIGHT AND BOTH OF THE HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT WHILE WE WERE DRIVING 70MPH. WE MANAGED TO GET HOME BY THE DIM LIGHT OF OUR FOG LIGHTS, BUT THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS! FOG LIGHTS WERE NOT MEANT FOR NIGHTTIME DRIVING. WHEN WE GOT HOME, WE STARTED PLAYING WITH THE HEADLIGHTS AGAIN, AND LIKE MAGIC, THEY DECIDED THEY WERE GOING TO START WORKING AGAIN. THEY TURNED ON FULL BLAST, NO FLICKERING OR ANYTHING. LOOKING UP OUR ISSUES TODAY, APPARENTLY THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH THE HID HEADLIGHTS AND IS A COMMON KNOWN PROBLEM FOR THE PRIUS. PEOPLE HAVE PAID HUNDREDS OR EVEN THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO HAVE THEIR HEADLIGHTS REPLACED ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME THING HAPPEN AGAIN. SEEMS LIKE THE GUTS OF THIS CAR ARE FLAWED AND NEED TO BE REPAIRED. PRESENTLY I'M STUCK. I'M NOT GOING TO SPEND HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS TO REPLACE HEADLIGHTS THAT REALLY DON'T NEED REPLACING WHEN PEOPLE ARE SAYING IT DOES NOT GOOD. TOYOTA REALLY NEED TO ADDRESS THIS. CAN'T HAVE HEADLIGHTS GOING OUT WHEN YOU'RE GOING 70 ON THE INTERSTATE. SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET KILLED FROM THIS. *TR
OVER TIME THE BLACK RUBBER ON OUR HATCH HAS MELTED. IT HAS GOTTEN HARDER AND HARDER TO OPEN THE TRUNK. FINALLY WE POPPED THE PLASTIC PART OFF DUE TO THE PRESSURE NEEDED TO OPEN THE TRUNK. IT NO LONGER OPENS. MY HUSBAND HAD A FLAT TIRE ON 6/13/2014. HE COULD NOT GET IN TO THE TRUNK AND HAD TO DRIVE THE CAR TO A TIRE PLACE TO BUY NEW TIRES. THE FACT THAT HE COULDN'T GET IN TO THE TRUNK WAS INCONVENIENT AND EXPENSIVE. MY GREATEST CONCERN IS THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. YOU CAN'T GET IN OR OUT OF THE TRUNK IN CASE OF EMERGENCY. THAT IS PRETTY SCARY, ESPECIALLY SINCE WE ARE TRAVELING WITH 2 SMALL CHILDREN. *JS
WITHIN APPROX. 5 MINUTES OF STARTING MY CAR WITH THE HEADLIGHTS THEY AUTOMATICALLY TURN OFF. YOU ARE ABLE TO KEEP CLICKING THEM BACK ON, BUT THEN THEY TURN OFF AGAIN. THUS MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DRIVE AT NIGHT, FOR FEAR OF CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. HUGE SAFETY FACTOR. *JS
THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT RANDOMLY GOES OUT. ONE TIME BOTH HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. WHEN I TAKE IT TO MY MECHANIC, HE CAN'T EVER MAKE IT HAPPEN. IF I TURN THE LIGHTS OFF AND TURN THEM BACK ON, THE LIGHT COMES BACK ON. IT HAPPENS REGULARLY, AND CONTINUES TO THIS DAY. *TR
I HAVE A 2007 TOURING PRIUS WITH HID HEADLAMPS AND 1 OF THE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY STARTED LEAKING WATER AND TOYOTA OF KINGSPORT, TN. REPLACED IT ON OCT. 28TH 2013 AND CHARGED ME $342.30 AFTER DISCOUNT. NOW THE NEW HEADLIGHT AND THE OTHER ONE IS GOING OFF WHILE DRIVING AND THIS HAPPENED ON MAY 29TH 2014. THERE IS NO WAY A HEADLIGHT SHOULD FAIL IN 6 OR 7 MONTHS. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING TO MY COMPLAINT, AS I CAN'T AFFORD TO KEEP REPLACING THESE VERY EXPENSIVE HEADLAMPS. I WENT ONLINE AND IT SEEMS I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS PROBLEM AND CAN YOU GET TOYOTA TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS? I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE US PRIUS OWNERS WITH THE HID HEADLAMP SYSTEM. *TR
I HAVE SEEN THE RECENT RECALL RELATED TO MANY MAKES AND MODELS OF TOYOTA'S FOR THE CLOCK-SPRINGS OR SPIRAL CABLES IN THE STEERING WHEEL. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF THE CAR WHICH PROVIDES THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION FOR MANY COMPONENTS SUCH AS THE STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS, HORN, AND AIR BAGS. I HAVE HEARD OF OTHERS WITH THE SAME ISSUES IN THEIR GENERATION II PRIUS (2004-2009). MY SPIRAL CABLE HAS RECENTLY STOPPED WORKING AS WELL AND SEEING AS THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE I BELIEVE TOYOTA SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR CORRECTING IT. *TR
THE RUBBER PART TO MY TRUNK LATCH HAS MELTED ALMOST COMPLETELY! IN WARM WEATHER IT TRANSFERS TO MY HANDS. IN WINTER IN COLD WEATHER (BELOW 50 DEGREES) I CAN'T OPEN THE TRUNK AT ALL. NOW THE SURROUNDING PART AROUND MY LATCH HAS LOOSEN. I'M SO FRUSTRATED THAT WHEN I CAN ACTUALLY GET INTO MY TRUNK MY FINGERS ARE COVERED IN TAR. *TR
I WAS DRIVING AT 5:00 AM ON 5-3-14 TO THE BEACH AND MY HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT IN COMPLETE DARKNESS. LUCKILY THERE WAS NO OTHER TRAFFIC AROUND AND I WAS SCARED TO PROCEED ON MY TRIP. I TURNED THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND THE HEADLIGHTS CAME BACK ON. I PROCEEDED ON MY TRIP WITH CAUTION AND WHEN IT GOT LIGHT I DROVE WITHOUT MY HEADLIGHTS AND SAFELY GOT TO THE BEACH. THIS INCIDENT COULD HAVE RESULTED IN A BAD CAR ACCIDENT AND DEATH SINCE I WAS IN COMPLETE DARKNESS. WHAT SHOULD I DO ? *TR
I HAD MY CAR IN FOR 110,000 MILE SERVICE ON APRIL 25. THEY CHANGED THE OIL, ROTATED THE TIRES, INSTALLED A NEW AIR FILTER AND SAID THAT I NEEDED NEW FRONT BRAKES AND THEY CLEANED AND ADJUSTED THE BACK BRAKES. YESTERDAY AFTER BACKING OUT OF THE GARAGE THE BRAKE LIGHT WARNING LIGHT ALONG WITH THE ABS AND VSC LIGHT CAME ON BRIEFLY. ON INTERSTATE 90 NEARING DOWNTOWN CLEVELAND ALL OF THESE LIGHTS CAME ON AGAIN ALONG WITH A NOISE. I CALLED THE TOYOTA DEALER AND TALKED TO THE SERVICE ADVISOR AND ASKED IF IT WAS SAFE TO GO TO CLEVELAND AND BACK AND HE SAID IF THE BRAKES WORK, IT PROBABLY JUST A SWITCH AND IT WOULD BE OK TO BRING IT IN TOMORROW. WHILE I STILL HAD HIM ON THE PHONE, WE LOST ALL POWER TO THE VEHICLE AND IT DECELERATED DOWN TO 30 BEFORE WE WERE ABLE TO REACH AN EXIT RAMP AND STOP THE CAR IN THE GRASS. I WAS INFORMED TODAY THAT THE PROBLEM IS A LOW VOLT BATTERY THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED FOR $299. AT NO TIME DID A LOW BATTERY LIGHT COME ON AND I HAVE NOT HAD TROUBLE STARTING THE CAR NOR DO I HAVE DIM LIGHTS. WE WERE FORTUNATE THAT WE WERE NOT KILLED ON INTERSTATE 90 WITHOUT POWER, STEERING OR BRAKES. I THINK THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. *TR
LAST WEEK MY WIFE WAS DRIVING WHEN OUR CAR LOST POWER, BEGAN MAKING UNUSUAL NOISES, AND MULTIPLE WARNING LIGHTS BECAME ILLUMINATED ON THE DASH. SHE STOPPED THE CAR, TURNED OFF THE POWER, AND RESTARTED THE ENGINE; AGAIN THE WARNING LIGHTS REMAINED LIT. WE IMMEDIATELY TOOK THE CAR TO OUR LOCAL DEALER AND LEFT IT OVERNIGHT. THE NEXT DAY THEY INFORMED ME THE TRANSMISSION HAD FAILED AND CHARGED ME $5400 TO REPAIR IT. THE DAY FOLLOWING THE REPAIR THE "CHECK ENGINE" WARNING LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN WHILE DRIVING AND REMAINED LIT. WE IMMEDIATELY RETURNED TO THE DEALER. AFTER EXAMINING THE VEHICLE THE DEALER TOLD US THAT THE WATER RESERVOIR FLOAT HAD BECOME STUCK. HE ALSO STATED THAT THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR HYBRIDS WHICH HAVE UNDERGONE MAJOR ENGINE REPAIR. TODAY THEY FURTHER ADVISED THAT WE CONTINUE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITHOUT FURTHER REPAIRS. *TR
WITHOUT WARNING, AFTER STOPPING AND TURNING OFF THE ENGINE, MY PRIUS ENGINE WOULDN'T START AND ALL OF THE WARNING LIGHTS WENT ON WHEN I TRIED TO TURN THE ENGINE OVER.. THANKFULLY, I WAS NOT IN AN INTERSECTION OR ON A ROAD WHEN THIS OCCURRED. THE TOYOTA DEALER I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO, TOLD ME I HAD A POAA6 CODE AND NEED TO REPLACE A TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY. (REPAIR COSTS ARE OVER $4000.00) AFTER A LITTLE BIT OF RESEARCH, IT APPEARS THAT A LOT OF 2007 PRIUS OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME PRODUCT FAILURE. I JUST FOUND OUT THAT TOYOTA HAS A SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THE PROBLEM BUT DOES NOT COVER THE FAILURE AFTER 60,000 MILES, EXCEPT IN A FEW STATES, SUCH AS CALIFORNIA, WHICH MADE TOYOTA EXTEND WARRANTY TO 150,000 MILES. . NO TOYOTA MECHANIC EVER ADVISED ME ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. HAD I KNOWN IT'S POTENTIAL, I WOULD HAVE PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY. TSB NUMBER: SB-0306-08 REV 2NHTSA NUMBER: 10037588TSB DATE: MARCH 23, 2011DATE ADDED TO FILE: MAY 26, 2011 FAILING COMPONENT: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:BATTERY SUMMARY: TOYOTA: MALFUNCTION LIGHT IS ON WITH TWO INTERNAL TROUBLE CODES. IT IS A PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY. 2004-2008 PRIUS. *JS
THE BACK DOOR LATCH OF MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAS DEGRADED ("MELTED" ALMOST). IT NO LONGER FUNCTIONS PROPERLY, AND I AM UNABLE TO OPEN THE BACK HATCH DOOR. SOMETIMES IT REQUIRED CONSIDERABLE EFFORT AND PERSEVERANCE TO GET IT OPEN. I CANNOT OPEN IT ANYMORE AS THE LATCH BROKE. I AM CONCERNED THAT IN THE CASE OF AN EMERGENCY, I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE DOOR OPEN. THIS IS A MAJOR CAUSE FOR CONCERN AND IT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD. BLUE 2007 PRIUS IN CUPERTINO, CA. *TR
DRIVING ALONG INTERSTATE 70 AT NIGHT, HEADLIGHT INTENSITY SUDDENLY DROPPED. STOPPED IN A SAFE PLACE ON THE NEXT EXIT RAMP AND DETERMINED THAT BOTH HIGH BEAM AND LOW BEAM OF THE LEFT HEADLIGHT HAD GONE OUT. RESUMED THE REST OF THE TRIP AT A SAFER SPEED. NEXT MORNING, TESTED THE HEADLIGHTS AND THEY ALL WORKED OK, BUT LATER IN THE WEEK THE SAME THING HAPPENED. *TR
WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY ABOUT 60MPH, VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST BRAKES. BRAKE, ABS AND VSC IDIOT LIGHT WENT ON. INSIDE VEHICLE BUZZER SOUNDED. VERY LITTLE HYDRAULIC BRAKING. WAS ONLY ABLE TO STOP VEHICLE BECAUSE I WAS GOING UP HILL. *TR
I WAS DRIVING WITHIN THE SPEED LIMIT ON I-40 EAST TOWARD KNOXVILLE ON A FRIDAY EVENING. SUDDENLY ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON AND BUZZERS WENT OFF. I PULLED OVER TO THE RIGHT LANE TO PREPARE TO PULL OVER TO THE SHOULDER OR TAKE THE NEAREST EXIT. TRAFFIC WAS VERY HEAVY WITH LOTS OF TRUCKS. I SAW AN EXIT ABOUT A MILE AHEAD AND TOOK IT. I FOUND I HAD VERY LIMITED BRAKING ABILITY. I PRESSED ON THE BRAKES AND SLOWED DOWN JUST BARELY ENOUGH TO MAKE THE TURN OFF THE EXIT RAMP ONTO BUTTERMILK RD. WHERE THERE WERE NO SERVICES, AND NO OPEN BUSINESSES. I CALLED FOR A TOW WHICH ARRIVED WELL AFTER DARK. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE TOYOTA OF KNOXVILLE DEALERSHIP WHICH WAS CLOSED. ON SATURDAY MORNING I FOUND OUT I NEEDED THE BRAKE ACCUMULATOR REPLACED. THEY TOLD ME THAT THE CAR COULD BE DRIVEN BUT THEY DID NOT RECOMMEND IT BECAUSE THE INCIDENT WOULD HAPPEN AGAIN. I AM FROM MARYLAND AND WAS ABOUT A 10-HOUR DRIVE FROM HOME. I DID NOT WANT TO RISK IT. THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE IN THE AREA AND HAD TO BE ORDERED. IT WAS TUESDAY EVENING BEFORE THE CAR WAS FIXED. THIS WAS THE SCARIEST INCIDENT I HAVE EVER HAD WITH ANY CAR. THIS PART HAS BEEN JUST RECALLED IN OTHER MODELS OF PRIUS. WHAT WAS DESCRIBED AS THE REASON FOR THOSE RECALLS IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO ME. *TR
PARKING MY PRIUS, MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, I HIT A VERY SMALL PATCH OF BLACK ICE WITH THE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL. THE CAR SLANTED BRIEFLY TO THE LEFT--THEN THERE WAS A SUDDEN SURGE OF ENGINE POWER. THE CAR RUSHED OVER A MOUND OF ICE AND SNOW, JUMPED THE CURB, RUSHED FORWARD BETWEEN A WALL AND A TREE, NARROWLY MISSING IT, AND CRASHED INTO A PARKED TOYOTA TRUCK FACING OUTWARD FROM THE CURB. MY PRIUS HIT THE HEAVY TRUCK WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO KNOCK IT SIX FEET FOR THEIR NORTH AND THREE FEET TO THE WEST. AFTER IMPACT, THE ENGINE CONTINUED TO MAKE A LOT OF NOISE, A SOUND I'VE NEVER HEARD BEFORE IN SEVEN YEARS OF DRIVING THE CAR. IT WAS ATTEMPTING TO SURGE PAST THE TRUCK, WHICH I BELIEVE CAUSED THE MOST DAMAGE TO THE FRONT LEFT BUMPER OF THE CAR. I WAS STUNNED AND DIDN'T THINK TO TURN OFF THE IGNITION BEFORE IT QUIT ON ITS OWN AFTER PERHAPS TEN SECONDS. THE BODY WAS SHEARED BACK, STRIPS OF BLUE PAINT HANGING IN SHREDS. I CRAWLED OUT THE PASSENGER SIDE UNHURT. (THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY.) *JS
I WAS RETURNING HOME FROM A TRIP WITH A FRIEND AND DRIVING ON MAJOR FREEWAY LATE AT NIGHT, VERY DARK WITH LITTLE VISIBILITY IN A RURAL, UNLIT AREA. .ALL LIGHTS IN VEHICLE SHUT DOWN WHILE DRIVING 70-75 MPH. WE COULD NOT SEE ANYTHING EVEN THE ROAD, WAS LIKE DRIVING BLIND AND VERY FRIGHTENING TRYING TO NAVIGATE THE PRIUS OFF THE ROAD SAFELY WITHOUT GETTING HIT BY OTHER VEHICLES. ONCE I STOPPED THE VEHICLE OFF THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IN THE FAR LEFT LANE WE TURNED THE VEHICLE OFF, BUT LEFT THE HAZARD LIGHTS ON AND LET THE VEHICLE SIT FOR A FEW MINUTES. WE STARTED AGAIN, LIGHTS CAME ON, AND I DROVE THE VEHICLE ANOTHER 100 MILES WITHOUT ANY INCIDENT UNTIL WE ENTERED THE CITY. I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM DRIVING THE 12 REMAINING MILES HOME, BUT THE FRONT YELLOW LIGHTS WORKED AND I HAD THE HAZARD AND BRAKE LIGHTS WORKING. THE CITY LIGHTS IMPROVED VISIBILITY. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN AND THE ONLY PROBLEM THEY COULD FIND WAS WITH ONE OF THE HEADLIGHTS. I WAS TOLD I NEEDED TO REPLACE BOTH. I CAN'T EMPHASIZE HOW DANGEROUS AND FRIGHTENING THIS EXPERIENCE WAS FOR MY FRIEND AND I, STILL UNSURE HOW WE AVOIDED A TRAGEDY. I WOULD LIKE THE NHTSA TO INVESTIGATE AND MAKE A RECOMMENDATION TO HAVE SOME TYPE OF WARNING IN THE VEHICLE. *TR
ONE VEHICLE HEADLIGHT KEEPS GOING OUT BUT WHEN YOU TURN THE LIGHTS OFF AT THE SWITCH, THEN BACK ON THE LIGHT COMES ON AGAIN. THE DEALER CHANGED THE BULB DESPITE US TELLING THEM THE LIGHT COMES ON IF YOU TURN THE SWITCH OFF AND BACK ON. WE HAD THE CONNECTOR CHECKED AND CLEANED TO NO AVAIL. I DID A LITTLE RESEARCH AND IT TURNS OUT THAT MANY OTHER PRIUS OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT IS VERY EXPENSIVE TO TROUBLESHOOT AND FIX. *TR
I WAS PULLED OVER WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT BY KANSAS HIGHWAY PATROL AND ADVISED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE FRONT HEADLIGHT WAS OUT. I EXITED A FEW MILES UP AHEAD AT WICHITA AND SPENT THE NIGHT. THE NEXT MORNING I DROVE TO MY ORIGINAL DESTINATION OF ENID, OK AND TOOK THE CAR TO THE TOYOTA DEALERSHIP FOR SERVICE, AND THEY TOLD ME THEY COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG BECAUSE THE HEADLIGHT WORKED PERFECTLY. SINCE THEN, I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THAT HEADLIGHT WORKING ONLY INTERMITTENTLY AND I'VE TAKEN IT TO MY HOME DEALERSHIP IN COLUMBIA, MO (MACHENS TOYOTA) AND BEEN TOLD THEY CAN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG. MY DAUGHTER HAS BEEN STOPPED IN THIS CAR BY LOCAL POLICE TWICE, ADVISING HER THAT THE HEADLIGHT IS OUT, AND I'VE BEEN TOLD THIS SAME THING BY FRIENDS ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. IT SEEMS THAT THE HEADLIGHT WORKS INITIALLY WHEN TURNED ON, THEN IT CEASES TO BE ILLUMINATED AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE OR SO. IF I GO AHEAD AND TURN THE LIGHTS COMPLETELY OFF AND THEN TURN THEM BACK ON, IT WILL WORK AGAIN FOR A MINUTE OR TWO AND THEN GO OUT AGAIN. I HAVE "GOOGLED" THIS AND DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, AND SOME CONSUMERS HAVE SPENT UP TO $2600 TRYING TO GET VARIOUS PARTS REPLACED AND STILL, THE PROBLEM HAS NOT BEEN FIXED. THIS APPEARS TO BE A SERIOUS MANUFACTURING DEFECT AND I CANNOT OR WILL NOT BE ABLE TO AFFORD SPENDING THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TRYING UNSUCCESSFULLY TO REMEDIATE THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE! *TR
STOP AND GO TRAFFIC ON THE FREEWAY, ACCELERATING WHEN THE TRAFFIC STARTED PICKING UP BUT VEHICLES IN FRONT SUDDENLY STOP AND AS I HIT THE BRAKES ON THE BUMPING FREEWAY THE VEHICLE DOES A BRIEF LURCH FORWARD AS ESP LIGHT BLINKS. VEHICLE DOES NOT STOP UNDER THIS BRAKING CONDITION AND FEELS MOMENTARILY LIKE THERE IS NO BRAKE PRESSURE. AS A RESULT, VEHICLE DOESN'T STOP IN TIME AND HITS THE VEHICLE IN FRONT EVEN THOUGH IT COULD'VE BEEN AVOIDED HAD THE BRAKES WORKED AS THEY SHOULD'VE. *TR
MY VEHICLE WAS HIT BY A FAULT DRIVER AND MY VEHICLE AIR BAGS NEVER EXPLODED. I HAVE SUSTAINED INJURIES TO MY NECK, WRIST AND BACK AFTER THIS ACCIDENT. MY VEHICLE HAS GAS PEDAL ACCELERATION AFTER THE ACCIDENT AND WHEN I PUT THE BRAKES TO STOP OR SLOW DOWN THE VEHICLE MY VEHICLE JUMPS UP AND INCREASES THE SPEED. I FEAR THAT THIS FAULTY PARTS OF BRAKE OR GAS PADDLE COULD RESULT IN ANOTHER SERIOUS ACCIDENT. THIS IS MY VERY VALUED ASSET BECAUSE IT TAKES ME TO WORK AND BRINGS ME BACK. I HOPE THAT TOYOTA WILL INVESTIGATE MY PROBLEM VERY SERIOUSLY AND VERY CAREFULLY. MY INJURIES ARE VERY SERIOUS AND LONG LASTING AND I AM SEEING DOCTORS FOR THE LAST 13 MONTHS. I NEED HELP VERY VERY SOON. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR
12/18/13 IS THE FIRST OF MANY INCIDENTS WHEN THE HEADLAMPS SUDDENLY GO DARK. THE PROBLEM IS RANDOM AND INTERMITTENT, SOMETIMES THE LEFT, SOMETIMES THE RIGHT, SOMETIMES BOTH GO DARK AT ONCE. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. REPLACING THE HEADLAMP DOES NOT CORRECT THE DEFECT. *TR
BRAKE (RED COLOR) WARNING LIGHTS APPEAR WHILE DRIVING AT 55 MPH; YELLOW COLOR INDICATOR ON ABS, VSC. ONCE THESE WARNING LIGHTS APPEAR, I SOMEHOW LOSE 25-50% OF MY BRAKING POWER. NOT SURE WHAT IS WRONG DESPITE GETTING BRAND NEW WHEELS, REPLACED ALL-NEW ROTORS, BRAKE PADS, OIL AND FILTER CHANGE. THIS IS THE 5TH TIME IT HAS HAPPENED IN THE LAST FEW WEEKS. TOYOTA SHOULD BE HELD LIABLE AND TO REPLACE THE FULL COST OF ANY NECESSARY FIXES TO THE HYDRAULIC BRAKES OR RUN A DIAGNOSTIC OF THE ENTIRE VEHICLE'S ELECTRICAL OR BRAKES SYSTEM OR ANYTHING THAT LEADS TO THE DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS AT 100%. THIS WILL BE A SERIOUS ISSUE BECAUSE IT CAN LEAD TO SERIOUS ACCIDENTS IF OWNERS OF THIS VEHICLE EXPERIENCE THE SAME ISSUES. *TR
THE TRUNK HANDLE HAS MELTED - TURNING THE RUBBER INTO A STICKY GOO - AND ONE IS UNABLE TO OPEN THE TRUNK. LOCAL TOYOTA DEALER REMOVED AND REPLACED THE REAR HATCH SWITCH AT THE COST OF $310.22..THE LOCAL TOYOTA DEALER INFORMED ME THAT THIS REPAIR WAS NOT UNEXPECTED IN THAT A SIMILAR PROBLEM ON THE SCION HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED AND IS BEING REPAIRED BY TOYOTA AT THEIR EXPENSE. OTHER REPORTS ON THE WEB HIGHLIGHT THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE PRIUS. REQUEST HAVE BEEN SENT TO TOYOTA TO COVER THE COST OF THIS REPAIR, BUT THEY HAVE REFUSED TO PAY FOR THIS DEFECT. *TR
THE HEADLIGHT WENT OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING. I FOUND OUT THAT HEADLIGHTS CAN ONLY BE CHANGED BY THE DEALERSHIP. THE EARLIEST APPOINTMENT TO CHANGE A LIGHTBULB IS THE FOLLOWING WEDNESDAY (MORE THEN A WEEK LATER), AND THE ESTIMATED COST FOR THE CHANGE IS OVER $500. THIS CAUSES INCREDIBLE HARDSHIP - THIS IS SOMETHING THE BUYER SHOULD HAVE BEEN TOLD OF BEFORE BUYING THE VEHICLE. *TR
HYBRID BATTERY FAILED. THE BATTERY IS HYPED AS LASTING THE LIFETIME OF YOUR CAR. 7 YEARS AND 131K IS NOT A LIFETIME IN MY OPINION. IF I LIVED OR BOUGHT MY CAR IN CA, IT WOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. BECAUSE I LIVE IN ALABAMA, IT IS NOT. WARRANTY SHOULD BE STANDARDIZED. *TR
FOR THE SECOND TIME IN A YEAR, THE ELECTRONIC DISPLAY PANEL ON MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAS GONE COMPLETELY DARK I.E, INOPERATIVE WHEN I STARTED THE VEHICLE. THIS PANEL DISPLAYS THE VEHICLE SPEED, GAS GAUGE AND VARIOUS STATUS & WARNING LIGHTS. THE CAR STILL IS ABLE TO BE DRIVEN EVEN THOUGH THE DISPLAY PANEL DOES NOT WORK, WHICH IS A HAZARD. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I HAD THE TOYOTA DEALERSHIP'S SERVICE DEPT. LOOK AT THE CAR AND THEY COULD NOT REPRODUCE THE PROBLEM. THIS TIME I NOTICED THAT THE INTERIOR DOOR LIGHT WAS LIT. HOWEVER NO DOOR WAS OPEN. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS POWERED, I OPEN AND CLOSED EVERY DOOR INCLUDING THE REAR HATCH. THE DOOR LIGHT REMAINED LIT. I THEN HIT THE POWER BUTTON TO POWER THE CAR OFF AND THEN BACK ON. THE INTERIOR DOOR LIGHT WENT OUT AND THE DISPLAY PANEL CAME ON, RESOLVING THE ISSUE. I'VE TRIED TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM BY OPENING A DOOR AND POWERING UP THE CAR WITHOUT SUCCESS. THERE HAS TO BE ANOTHER FACTOR INVOLVED THAT CAUSES THE DISPLAY TO FAIL TO OPERATE. *TR
THE DISPLAY SCREEN IN THE CENTER OF THE DASH IN COMPLETELY BLACK. IT WON'T TURN ON. *TR
FAILED COMPONENT IS THE RUBBER COVER ON THE TRUNK/HATCH SWITCH. HEAT HAS SPLIT THE COVER COMPROMISING THE INTEGRITY OF THE ELECTRICAL SWITCH. HEAT HAS MADE THE RUBBER A STICKY MESS. THIS HAS MADE THE TRUNK/HATCH DIFFICULT TO OPEN, IMPOSSIBLE FOR MY WIFE. REPAIRS FOR THIS MISTAKE MADE BY TOYOTA WILL COST $65 FOR THE PART AND AS MUCH AS $150 FOR LABOR. SOME DEALERS APPARENTLY HAVE PAID FOR REPAIRS IN SOME AREAS OF THE COUNTRY. I'M AWARE THAT THERE HAVE BEEN HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT THE RUBBER COVER IS DEFECTIVE AND SHOULD BE MADE GOOD BY TOYOTA. IF, IN AN EMERGENCY ONE IS UNABLE TO ACCESS THE HATCH FOR EQUIPMENT; CABLES, EXTINGUISHER, SPARE TIRE, FLARES, ETC., THIS COULD BE SEEN AS A SERIOUS THREAT TO INJURY OR WORSE.
DURING THE SUMMER OF 2011, WE NOTICED THE TRUNK LATCH MECHANISM TO BE STICKY AND MELTING, LEAVING BLACK STUFF ON OUR HANDS. WE LIVE IN SOUTHWEST OHIO, SO TEMPERATURES ARE USUALLY IN THE 80S-90S IN THE PEAK OF SUMMER. AT TIMES, THIS WOULD CAUSE THE TRUNK LATCH NOT TO WORK, AND WE COULDN'T OPEN THE TRUNK. DURING THE FALL MONTHS, THINGS IMPROVED, AND IT WASN'T AS MUCH OF AN ISSUE. ONCE THE COLDER WINTER MONTHS BEGAN, THE TRUNK LATCH BEGAN TO STICK AND WOULDN'T OPEN WHEN IT WAS COLD. I CAN RECALL SEVERAL TIMES TRYING TO OPEN THE TRUNK UNSUCCESSFULLY. AGAIN, THINGS IMPROVED ONCE TEMPERATURES WARMED UP IN SPRING. THE WHOLE CYCLE STARTED AGAIN IN THE SUMMER AND REPEATED OVER AND OVER. OVER TIME, THE PART THAT THE LATCH IS CONNECTED TO BEGAN TO FEEL LOOSE. I ASKED ABOUT IT DURING MY ROUTINE 80K MILE SERVICE, AND THEY SAID THAT THE WHOLE PART WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED, NOT JUST THE LATCH. ALTHOUGH WE HAVE THE EXTENDED WARRANTY COVERAGE, APPARENTLY IT WAS NOT COVERED AND WE COULD NOT AFFORD TO REPLACE IT AT THAT TIME. WELL, THIS FEBRUARY, THE TRUNK LATCH WAS ONCE AGAIN MALFUNCTIONING AND WOULD NOT OPEN WHILE RUNNING ERRANDS. AT ONE LOCATION, I TRIED OPENING THE TRUNK, SQUEEZING THE MELTED BUTTON, AND THE ENTIRE PART THAT THE SWITCH IS ATTACHED TO (INCLUDING THE PUSH BUTTON LOCK, THE BACK-UP CAMERA, ETC.) BROKE OFF OF THE CAR. I AM 30SOMETHING WOMAN WITH AVERAGE STRENGTH, AND I DON'T FEEL I WAS BEING OVERLY AGGRESSIVE ON TRYING TO OPEN THE CAR. I BELIEVE THIS WAS DUE TO THE PART NOT FUN
TODAY (AND MANY OTHER DAYS) ONE OR BOTH OF MY HEADLIGHTS AND/OR TAILLIGHTS HAVE EXTINGUISHED COMPLETELY ON THEIR OWN WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS. THIS IS ESPECIALLY FRIGHTENING WHEN BOTH HEADLIGHTS EXTINGUISH WHERE WE LIVE (OUT IN THE COUNTRY WHERE STREETLIGHTS DO NOT EXIST). ON SEVERAL OTHER OCCASIONS, I HAVE BEEN PULLED OVER ON THE WAY TO WORK BY VARIOUS LAW ENFORCEMENT ORGANIZATIONS (LOCAL POLICE, SHERIFF, HIGHWAY PATROL) DUE TO MY HEADLIGHTS AND/OR TAILLIGHTS BEING OUT. TURNING THEM OFF AND THEN ON, OR TAPPING THE TAILLIGHT WITH MY HAND (OBVIOUSLY IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCOMPLISH WHILE DRIVING) SOLVES THE PROBLEM FOR A FEW MINUTES AT A TIME. EVERY DAY, AT LEAST 5 OF MY COWORKERS INFORM ME THAT I HAVE A HEADLIGHT AND/OR TAILLIGHT BULB WHICH NEEDS REPLACING. I DRIVE THIS CAR AS A COMMUTER TO WORK AND TO DRIVE MY CHILDREN. IT CONCERNS ME GREATLY THAT TOYOTA IGNORES THIS PROBLEM! *TR
HEADLIGHTS SOMETIMES GO OUT OR FAIL TO STAY LITE---TURNING THEM OFF AND BACK ON SEEMS TO CORRECT ISSUE FOR MY 2007 PRIUS,SO FAR. THERE IS A SERVICE NOTICE ISSUED BUT WE NEED A REQUIRED RECALL TO MAKE DEALERS CORRECT ISSUE FOR FREE. *TR
WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT, BOTH HEADLIGHTS SIMULTANEOUSLY TURNED OFF, WITHOUT WARNING. SOME PANIC,BUT, TURNED LIGHT SWITCH OFF/ON (PURE LUCK ON MY PART) AND LIGHTS AGAIN CAME ON -- PROBABLY WITHIN 10 SECONDS OF HAVING AN ACCIDENT OR GOING OFF THE ROAD. NO EMERGENCY PULL-OFF LANE, OR AREA WAS AVAILABLE. *TR
THE BULBS TURN OFF INTERMITTENTLY FOR NO REASON. I ALREADY REPLACED THE BULBS BUT THE PROBLEM DID NOT GO AWAY. THIS IS VERY UNSAFE. I MADE MY RESEARCH AND THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS OF THIS KIND OF PROBLEM WITH THE 2007 PRIUS. TOYOTA SHOULD RECALL AND FIX THIS PROBLEM. THIS IS VERY UNSAFE. *TR
WE OWN A TOYOTA PRIUS AND HAVE HAD THE DEALER REPLACE THE HEADLIGHT 4 TIMES. THE FIRST TIME WE SIMPLY GOT IN THE VEHICLE AND WHEN WE TURNED IT ON WE REALIZED IT WAS NOT WORKING. AFTER WE HAD IT FIXED ABOUT 2 MONTHS LATER WE GOT PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A WARNING TO GET IT FIXED. WE DID SO AGAIN AND AGAIN WITH NO SOLUTION. SINCE OUR LAST TIME THE DEALERSHIP HAS ADVISED US TO GO TO THE TOYOTA DEALERSHIP BUT THERE TELLING US THAT IS SIMPLY A BAD HEADLIGHT AND IT WILL COST ABOUT 200 TO FIX IT. I SHOWED THEM WHERE IN 8 MONTHS IT WAS CHANGED 3 TIMES AND THEY SIMPLY SAID IT MUST BE HUMAN ERROR BECAUSE EVERYTHING ELSE LOOKS FINE. *TR
THE RIGHT FRONT HEAD LAMP GOES OFF OUT AFTER 10-15 MINUTES OF BEING ON. ONCE I TURN THE CAR OFF AND ALLOW IT TO REST IT WILL BEGIN TO WORK AGAIN. *TR
THE RUBBER TRUNK LATCH HAS MELTED INCREASINGLY OVER TIME. WHEN THE WEATHER IS WARM, OPENING THE TRUNK LEAVES MY HAND COVERED IN TAR-LIKE GOO AND THE SENSOR IS DIFFICULT TO ENGAGE. IN WINTER, THE LATCH DOES NOT WORK AT ALL AND THE TRUNK CANNOT BE OPENED WHATSOEVER. IN ADDITION TO BEING INCREDIBLY ANNOYING, THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN AS IT IS A POSSIBLE EGRESS POINT SHOULD THE CAR EVER BECOME WEDGED. PLEASE GET TOYOTA TO REPAIR THIS PROBLEM. *TR
FOR A LONG TIME MY PRIUS HAS HAD PAUSES IN ACCELERATION OCCASIONALLY WHEN LEAVING A STOPPED POSITION. YOU PRESS ON THE GAS AND THERE IS A COUPLE OF SECOND PAUSE BEFORE IT ACCELERATES. YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL WHEN PULLING OUT INTO TRAFFIC BECAUSE WHEN IT LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE TIME TO GO, WITH THE PAUSE IT IS NO LONGER SAFE TO PULL OUT. I CALL IT STALLING OUT. THERE IS A RECALL FOR PRIUS THAT BEGAN ON JANUARY 17,2013. IT STATES: THE CORRODED WIRE MAY BREAK AND THE WATER PUMP COULD STOP. IT COULD CAUSE A SHORT CIRCUIT BETWEEN COIL WIRES AND A POSSIBLE OPEN FUSE, CREATING A STALL LIKE CONDITION. THE REMEDY IS THAT TOYOTA WILL REPLACE THE ELECTRIC WATER PUMP AT NO CHARGE. I HAVE THE STALL LIKE CONDITION AND DURING MY LAST SERVICE AT A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP HE TOLD ME I NEEDED A NEW WATER PUMP. I CONTACTED TOYOTA ABOUT MY PROBLEM AND THE RECALL. THEY RESPONDED THAT MY VEHICLE WAS NOT INVOLVED IN THE RECALL AND THEY WOULD OFFER ME NO ASSISTANCE IN THE $500 PAYMENT FOR THE WATER PUMP. I BELIEVE MY VEHICLE HAS THE PROBLEMS LISTED IN THE RECALL AND SHOULD BE INCLUDED. *TR
I CANNOT OPEN MY HATCHBACK IN COLD WEATHER. THE RUBBER PIECE IS VERY HARD IN COLD WEATHER NOT ALLOWING ME TO ENGAGE MECHANISM FOR OPENING HATCHBACK. IF IT WAS MADE OF A PLIABLE MATERIAL IN COLD WEATHER I THINK IT WOULD OPEN. PLEASE GET TOYOTA TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. *TR
I AM UNABLE TO OPEN MY REAR HOOD LATCH. THERE IS A COVERING ON THE LATCH THAT IS STICKY, GOOEY AND IMPOSSIBLE TO OPEN MANIPULATE AND USE. I HAVE FOUND NUMEROUS OTHER COMPLAINTS ON THE WEB (SEE, FOR EXAMPLE: HTTP://WWW.MEYERSONSTRATEGY.COM/2013/09/TOYOTAS-STICKY-2007-PRIUS-HATCH-PROBLEM.HTML). IT HAS GOTTEN WORSE OVER TIME. GIVEN THE WIDESPREAD NATURE OF THIS PROBLEM, I BELIEVE THAT TOYOTA INSTALLED A FAULTY LATCH AND SHOULD REPLACE THE LATCH AT NO CHARGE. *TR
SINCE 2008, THE HEADLAMPS ON MY CAR HAVE BEEN GOING IN AND OUT. THE DEALERSHIP REPLACED ONE OF THE LIGHTS IN 2008, BUT IT HAS CONTINUED TO BE A PROBLEM. SOMETIMES ONE LIGHT GOES OUT, WHILE OTHER TIMES THEY BOTH GO OUT AND IT CAN BE QUITE DANGEROUS. THEY WILL USUALLY COME BACK ON WHEN TURNED ON AND OFF, BUT IT'S STILL DANGEROUS, PARTICULARLY ON THE INTERSTATE TRAVELING 70MPH AT NIGHT IF BOTH LIGHTS FLICKER OFF. A QUOTE OF APPROXIMATELY $500 WAS GIVEN TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE AT THE DEALERSHIP. TOYOTA HASN'T BEEN VERY FORTHCOMING WITH SUPPORT, KNOWING THAT THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTED ISSUES WITH THE HID LIGHT AND IT'S THE MOST COMMON COMPLAINT ON WEBSITES REGARDING THIS MAKE, MODEL AND YEAR. *TR
2007 TOYOTA PRIUS REAR HATCH HANDLE FAILURE. RUBBER COVER MELTS INTO ELECTRIC SWITCH MAKING IT INOPERABLE.THE BACK LATCH OF MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS FIRST DEGRADED ("MELTED" ALMOST) OVER THE COURSE OF SEVERAL MONTHS/YEARS. IT NO LONGER FUNCTIONED PROPERLY, AND I WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE BACK HATCH DOOR EASILY. SOMETIMES IT REQUIRED CONSIDERABLE EFFORT AND PERSEVERANCE TO GET IT OPEN. THE MALFUNCTIONING HANDLE STARTED TO GET LOOSE UNTIL EVENTUALLY IF JUST FALL OFF AND IT'S JUST HANGING BY THE ELECTRICAL WIRES. I HAD TO TAPE IT UNTIL IT GETS FIXED I AM CONCERNED THAT IN THE CASE OF AN EMERGENCY, I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE DOOR OPEN. THIS IS A MAJOR CAUSE FOR CONCERN AND IT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD.THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD BECAUSE THE TRUNK IS THE ONLY WAY TO ACCESS THE SPARE, ANY OF MY REPAIR TOOLS, EMERGENCY KIT, FLARES, JUMPERS, ETC. THERE IS NO ALTERNATIVE INTERNAL METHOD FOR OPENING THE HATCHBACK/TRUNK. TOYOTA NEEDS A RECALL OF THIS DEFECTIVE PART AS THE COST TO REPAIR IT IS EXORBITANT, QUOTED TO ME OVER $200 FOR THE PART ALONE. I CALLED TOYOTA CUSTOMER SERVICE AND THEY WON'T FIXED THEIR FAULTY PARTS UNTIL THE GOVERNMENT FORCES THEM TO. IT'S SAD THAT IT MIGHT TAKE SOME INJURIES OR DEATH FOR THIS ISSUE TO BE FIXED. *TR
MY CRUISE CONTROL LEVER BROKE OFF RIGHT AT THE BASE. THERE'S NOTHING BUT THE WIRES KEEPING IT ON. I HAD TO TAPE IT TO THE STEERING WHEEL SO IT WOULDN'T MAKE NOISES FROM FLOPPING AROUND WHEN I MADE TURNS.I HAVE NEVER USED EXCESSIVE FORCE, AND MY HANDS AREN'T ALL THAT STRONG. THE CRUISE CONTROL LEVER IS SUPPOSED TO BE USED REGULARLY AND THEREFORE SHOULD BE CONSTRUCTED IN A WAY TO WITHSTAND REGULAR USE. HOWEVER, IT'S OBVIOUS TOYOTA USED FAULTY CHEAP PARTS HERE THAT DON'T WITHSTAND THE INTENDED USE. THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS HERE AND ON OTHER WEBSITES REGARDING THIS ISSUE AFFECTING NUMEROUS CARS SO IT'S NOT A RAMDON BUT RATHER COMMEN ISSUE. TOYOTA SHOULD OFFER A CUSTOMER SUPPORT PROGRAM TO REPLACE THIS PART FREE OF CHARGE. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED DURING THE WINTER, WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO OPEN THE LIFT GATE IT FAILED TO OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION BUT THEY COULD NOT DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 79,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE CONTACT HEARD A HIGH PITCH SCREECHING SOUND AS ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT LOST CONTROL OF THE BRAKES AND THE ENGINE WAS SHUT OFF. THE VEHICLE STILL HAD NO BRAKES. THE FAILURE LATER RECURRED AND THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE DEALER STATED THAT THERE WAS AN ERROR IN THE MOTHER BOARD THAT THEY REPAIRED. HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE THE DEALER THEN STATED THAT THE ACTUATOR WOULD NEED REPLACING. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURE WAS CONTACTED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 160,000. UPDATED 3/12/14*CN
THE BACK LATCH OF MY TOYOTA PRIUS 2007 HAS DEGRADED. IN THE PAST I HAVE RARELY USED THE TRUNK OF MY CAR AND THEREFORE DID NOT REALIZE THE EXTENT OF THE PROBLEM. I AM NOW ALMOST 9 MONTHS PREGNANT. A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO (AROUND NOVEMBER 2013) I TRIED TO OPEN THE TRUNK. WHILE IT WAS DIFFICULT, AFTER A LOT OF PRESSING AND MANEUVERING I WAS ABLE TO OPEN IT. MOST RECENTLY FOR THE PAST 3 WEEKS, I AM COMPLETELY UNABLE TO OPEN THE TRUNK. NOW THAT THE TRUNK IS COMPLETELY UNABLE TO BE OPENED, I AM EXTREMELY CONCERNED FOR THE SAFETY OF MY NEWBORN THAT WILL BE RIDING IN THE CAR. IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY, BEING ABLE TO OPEN THE TRUNK TO POTENTIALLY REMOVE MY BABY OUT OF THE CAR IS A MUST. THEREFORE, I BELIEVE THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD. I AM REQUESTING THAT TOYOTA CORRECT THIS PROBLEM ON MY CAR. *TR
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2007 Toyota Prius → · Every Prius year → · How the figures are calculated →