2017 Subaru Outback complaints

BATTERY DISCHARGES AND NEEDS REPLACEMENT.

VEHICLE DIED WHILE IN A HOSPITAL PARKING LOT AND WAS JUMP-STARTED. BATTERY REPLACED BY A LOCAL REPAIR SHOP. CAR COULD ONLY SIT 2 - 3 DAYS BEFORE NEEDING A JUMP START. TOOK CAR TO STL SUBARU DEALER. THEY UPGRADED THE CHARGING SOFTWARE. THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THE TWO-WEEK-OLD BATTERY WAS BAD. WHEN CONNECTED TO THE CAR, THE OVERNIGHT VOLTAGE DROPS ON THE BATTERY WOULD BE FROM 0.4 TO 0.5 VOLTS. THE BATTERY WAS TYPICALLY DEAD WITHIN 3-4 DAYS. WHEN DISCONNECTED FROM THE CAR, THE OVERNIGHT VOLTAGE LOSS ON THE BATTERY WAS MINIMAL. THIS INDICATED THE CAR HAD UNSUSTAINABLE CURRENT DRAW EVEN WHEN "TURNED OFF." RETURNED TO THE SUBARU DEALER, NOTING THE CAR DISPLAYED EXCESSIVE CURRENT DRAW WHEN TURNED OFF. THEY REPORTED WAS THAT THE FACTORY DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE HAD INDICATED NO PROBLEM WITH THE CAR OR IT'S ELECTRONICS BUT THAT THE BATTERY WAS BAD. LOCAL REPAIR SHOP DISAGREED BUT REPLACED THE BATTERY WITH ANOTHER NEW. THE OVERNIGHT DISCHARGE CONDITION CONTINUED WITH A NEW BATTERY. I PLACED THE CAR IN "PARKED AND LOCKED" CONDITION AND MEASURED THE CURRENT ACROSS EACH FUSE IN BOTH THE ENGINE AND PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. 2 PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSES SHOWED SIGNIFICANT CURRENT DRAW WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED AND LOCKED, SERVING A POWER WINDOW AND THE CIRCUIT LABELED "ACC" WHICH INCLUDES THE CAR'S HEATING, COOLING AND DEFROSTING. I REMOVED THESE FUSES AND THE CAR CAN NOW SIT UNUSED FOR EXTENDED PERIODS. REPLACING THE FUSES RETURNS THE CAR TO THE OVERNIGHT BATTERY DRAIN CONDITION. I NOW HAVE A CAR

WHEN MY CAR SITS IN GARAGE FOR A WEEK, THE BATTERY DIES. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO SUBARU DEALER AND THEY SAY THERE IS NO PROBLEM. BUT I CONTINUE TO HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR. I HAVE DOCUMENTATION ON THE 6 TIMES I HAVE HAD TO USE ROAD SERVIC FINALLY I BOUGHT A TRICKLE CHARGER TO REMEDY THIS PROBLEM.E FOR A BATTERY JUMP START AND THE RECEIPTS GOING TO DEALER.

THIS VEHICLE IS DRIVEN CIRCA 125MILES/MONTH. THE BATTERY IS USUALLY DRAINED BEFORE USE, AND MUST BE CHARGED. IT IS TYPICALLY OK UNTIL THE NEXT USE, WHEN RECHARGE MUST RECUR. THIS MEANS THAT THE COMPUTER IS ALWAYS RESETTING ITSELF. THE RESET CAUSES THE VEHICLE TO FAIL STATE INSPECTION. THIS HAS BEEN A RECURRENT PROBLEM SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED NEW IN FEBRUARY 2017.

WILL NOT START WITH KEYLESS IGNITION. FIRST TIME 2018 WHEN BATTERY APPEARED DEAD AND COUKD NOT BE JUMP STARTED IN OUR GARAGE AND COUKD NOT UNLOCK DOORS OR EMERGENCY BRAKE AND COULD NOT BE JUMPED, CAR TOWED AND NEW BATTERY INSTALLED. ONE WEEK LATER SAME THING AGAIN DEAD BATTERY IN OUR GARAGE AND CAR TESTED BY SUBARU FOR MORE THAN A WEEK AND NO CAUSE DETERMINED. THIRD TIME APRIL 1, 2021 BATTERY DEAD AFTER THREE SHORT STOPS AND DRIVING LESS THAN 10 MILES AND RADIO COULD NOT BE SHUT OFF AT FIRST. TOW TRUCK DRIVER SAID BATTERY AT ALMOST FULL CHARGE AND DUGGRSTED USE KEY FOB AND PRESS START AND IT WORKED.

PURCHASED NEW VEHICLE FROM TETON MOTORS IN JACKSON, WY. BATTERY WAS REPLACED ONCE UNDER WARRANTY AND DEALER THOUGHT IT WAS A BAD BATTERY AS IT FAILED SO QUICKLY. STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH CAR STARTING DUE TO DRAINED BATTERY ABOUT 6 MONTHS LATER AND WE THOUGHT THAT WE HAD LEFT LIGHTS ON IN THE CAR. WE TURNED OFF ALL INTERIOR LIGHTS TO TRY TO ENSURE THIS DID NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. DURING ROUTINE SERVICE WE WERE INFORMED THAT BATTERY WAS BAD AS IT WOULD NOT HOLD CHARGE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. ALSO, DEALERSHIP SUGGESTED US INSTALL A TRICKLE CHARGER AS MY WIFE DOES NOT DRIVE THE CAR VERY FAR FOR WORK. SO WE PAID TO REPLACE BATTERY AND INSTALL TRICKLE CHARGER IN EARLY 2021.

MY 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK HAS ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. WITHIN TWO MONTHS OF PURCHASING MY NEW VEHICLE IN 2017 THE BATTERY DIED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED FOR TWO DAYS. NOTHING WAS LEFT ON TO DRAIN THE BATTERY, SOMETHING WITHIN THE PRE-DESIGNED ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILED DRAINING MY BATTERY. THIS CONTINUED TO HAPPEN PERIODICALLY OVER THE NEXT TWO YEARS UNTIL I DECIDED TO PURCHASE AN OPTIMA RED TOP BATTERY AT MY OWN EXPENSE SINCE SUBARU DID NOT PROVIDE AN ANSWER TO THIS PROBLEM. THIS SHOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED, WHEN BUYING A NEW VEHICLE I DO NOT EXPECT THE BATTERY TO DIE RIGHT AWAY.

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS, I'VE ARRIVED AT MY CAR AFTER A REASONABLY SHORT TIME AWAY - EACH TIME OVERNIGHT, PARKED IN MY GARAGE - TO FIND MY BATTERY FULLY DRAINED. I WONDERED IF I HAD LEFT MY LIGHTS ON, AND IF THAT MIGHT HAVE CAUSED THE PROBLEM. I FOUND THAT THE CONTROLS FOR MY HEADLAMPS WERE IN THE OFF POSITION. NEXT, I WONDERED IF I HAD LEFT A DOOR AJAR, OR AN INTERIOR LIGHT CONTROL SWITCH IN THE ON POSITION. I NEVER FOUND A DOOR AJAR. I NEVER FOUND AN INTERIOR LIGHT SWITCH ON. I TAKE MY CAR INTO FARAWAY CORNERS OF THE WILDERNESS ON OCCASION. I CANNOT RISK BATTERY DRAIN WHEN I RETURN TO MY CAR AFTER A DAY OR TWO OF ADVENTURE. TO BE SAFE AFTER THESE INCIDENTS, I REMOVED THE LIGHTBULB FROM THE "WAY BACK" OF MY SUBARU OUTBACK. I DID THIS TO AVOID ACCIDENTALLY DRAINING THE BATTERY IF I LEFT THAT LIGHT ON (EASY TO GO UNNOTICED). FURTHER, I KEEP EACH OF THE OTHER INTERIOR LIGHT SWICH CONTROLS IN THE OFF POSITION. I CHANGED THIS FROM THE "ON WHEN A DOOR IS OPEN" POSITION THAT I USED TO KEEP THE SWITCHES IN, AGAIN TO ENSURE THAT I DON'T ACCIDENTALLY DRAIN THE BATTERY. DURING MY NEXT MAINTENANCE VISIT WITH MY SUBARU DEALER'S MAINTENANCE TEAM (AN OIL CHANGE, I BELIEVE), I DISCUSSED THE BATTERY FAILURE WITH THE TECHNICIAN. I ASKED THE PERSON IF THERE WAS SOME WAY SET A SOFTWARE CONTROL SO THAT NO LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ILLUMINATED WITH THE ENGINE TURNED OFF FOR MORE THAN SOME SET PERIOD OF TIME (FOR INSTANCE, 10 MINUTES, OR A HALF HOUR). THE TECHNICIAN SAID THERE WAS NO WAY TO SET THAT FOR TH

THE BATTERY FAILED LESS THAN 3 YEARS OLD. COMPLETELY DIED ON NOVEMBER 6,2019. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND WOULD NOT START.

COMPLAINTPURCHASED VEHICLE ON 8/15/2017. STARTED HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES THAT HAVE PERSISTED CONSISTENTLY. INCIDENTS INCLUDE RADIO FREEZING, RADIO UPDATES AND PROBLEMS STILL PERSIST, FULL RADIO / SCREEN REPLACED, LIGHTS ON THE CPNSOLE PULSING DURING A HIGHWAY NIGHT DRIVE, NOTICE FROM STARLINK THAT MY SYSTEM WAS NOT WORKING AND I RECENTLY JUST HAD MY BATTERY REPLACED FOR THE FOURTH TIME IN 43 MONTHS OF OWNING THIS AUTO. MOST RECENTLY I COULDNT START MY CAR AND WAS STUCK AT THE SOUTH RIM OF THE GRAND CANYON. HAD TO GET THE AUTO TO FLAGSTAFF SUBARU TO GET THE BATTERY REPLACED. NO ONE MENTIONED THAT THIS ISSUE WAS RECURRING AND WIDESPREAD PROBLEM. WHEN I GOT MY CAR BACK TO LAS VEGAS, I TOOK THE CAR IN TO THE LAS VEGAS SUBARU DEALER ON APRIL 8, 2021. THE CAR WAS PICKED UP BY ME ON TUESDAY AP 13, 2021. I WAS TOLD THAT THEY DID AN UPDATE AND THAT THE PROBLEM WOULD BE FIXED. THERE IS NO WAY TO TELL IF THAT IS EVEN REMOTELY CORRECT AS THERE IS A NEW BATTERY (AGAIN THE 4TH BATTERY) IN THIS VEHICLE AND WHO KNOWS WHEN AND WHERE I WILL GET STUCK NEXT. THE TIME PERIODS BETWEEN INCIDENTS ARE AS LITTLE AS A FEW MONTHS AND BEYOND. I LITERALLY JUST READ AN ARTICLE TODAY ABOUT THERE BEING A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR THIS VERY SAME ISSUE FOR 2016-2020 SUBARU OUTBACKS. NO ONE IN THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT OR AT SUBARU NATIONAL 800 NUMBER MENTIONED THIS TO ME. AFTER THIS 4TH BATTERY INCIDENT, I DID MAKE A COMPLAINT TO SUBARU'S NATIONAL OFFICE

THE CAR HAS 30K MILES AND THE BATTERY DRAINED OUT SUDDENLY. THE ONLY SOLUTION WAS TO PURCHASE ANOTHER BATTERY FROM THE DEALERSHIP. I WAS TOLD THAT BATTERY HAD LOW CHARGE. I THINK THIS ISSUE IS THE SAME AS OTHER HAS BEEN EXPERIENCING.

I HAVE A 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK. I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY 4 TIMES AND LESS THAN 5 YEARS.

I HAVE FACED BATTERY ISSUE WITH SUBARU OUTBACK NUMEROUS OF TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED ON 17FEB, 2017 AS BRAND NEW SUBARU OUTBACK 2017. I FACED BATTERY ISSUE FIRST IN APRIL 02, 2018. THE VEHICLE DIDN'T START ALL THE TIME, I ALSO GOT STUCK CAR WON'T START, AWAY FROM MY HOME. I SHOWED TO THE DEALER AND BATTERY TEST FAILED, THEY REPLACED WITH SAME OEM BATTERY. THE BATTERY WAS STILL IN WARRANTY JANUARY, 2020 SAME ISSUE RE-APPEARED. THE DEALER TESTED BATTERY AND REPLACED WITH SAME OEM BATTERY AGAIN. I STILL BELIEVE THERE IS ISSUE WITH THEIR BATTERY AND NO SURPRISE IF I GET STUCK AGAIN WITH SAME PROBLEM.

BATTERY DIED MULTIPLE TIMES . LEFT OVERNIGHT, DEAD THE NEXT MORNING.CAR COULD BE JUMPED FROM ANOTHER CAR BUT NOT FROM A LITHIUM ION BATTERY PACK. AFTER MANY AAA CALLS I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER . THEY COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG. AFTER SEVERAL TRIPS TO THE DEALERSHIP I JUST SAID I'LL BUY ANOTHER BATTERY. . I'VE HAD 3 BATTERIES IN 4 YEARS.

2017 OUTBACK. UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. ONCE IN PARK TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL BACK AND FORTH DOESN'T HELP TO RELEASE THE KEY. MOVED GEAR SHIFT MULTIPLE DIRECTIONS UNTIL EVENTUALLY THE KEY WAS REMOVED. THE KEY ISN'T PARTICULARLY WORN.

MY WINDSHIELD HAD TO BE REPLACED TWICE IN THREE MONTHS ONCE 2-20-19 AND 5-6-2019.

MY SUBARU OUTBACK IS LESS THAN 3Y 9M AFTER BEING PURCHASED A BRAND NEW AND IT ALREADY GOT 5 (FIVE !!!) NEW BATTERIES REPLACED WITHOUT BEING IDENTIFIED WITH ANY ISSUES BY SUBARU TECHNICIANS. THE FIRST TIME THE BATTERY DIED WAS WHEN THE CAR WAS ONLY 7 MONTH OLD ON THE ORIGINAL WARRANTY. A NEW OEM BATTERY (#2) HAS BEEN INSTALLED AT THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP. 14 MONTHS LATER THIS SUBARU BATTERY #2 IS DEAD, REPLACED BY A NEW AAA BATTERY #3 THAT WITHIN TWO MONTHS WAS DEAD, EXTREMELY CORRODED. ONCE AGAIN I WAS FORCED TO ADDRESS THE SAME ISSUE, BRINGING THE CAR TO A DEALERSHIP WHERE A NEW OEM SUBARU BATTERY #4 WAS INSTALLED AND COVERED BY A THICK LAYER OF PETROLEUM JELLY. THE BATTERY #4 HAS LASTED ONLY FOR 17 MONTHS. THUS A NEW SUBARU OEM BATTERY #5 HAD TO BE INSTALLED. EVERY TIME I'M TOLD THE CAR HAS BEEN CHECKED, NO ISSUES HAVE BEEN FOUND,THOUGH I HAD ALSO REPORTED THAT I KEPT ADJUSTING THE CLOCK IN MY CAR EVERY COUPLE OF WEEKS,IT HAS BEEN FALLING BEHIND. IT'S HARD TO ACCEPT THAT SUBARU TECHNICIANS HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE CAUSE OF THE PARASITIC DRAIN PROBLEM IN MY CAR. WHAT IS EXACTLY GOING ON WITH MY SUBARU OUTBACK 2017 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM?TOO MUCH FRUSTRATION WHEN I MISSED MY WORKING HOURS, MEDICAL APPOINTMENTS DUE TO DEALING WITH THE CAR THATIS NOT STARTING, AS WELL AS WITNESSING MY CAR LOSING ITS VALUE. ALL THE DOCUMENTS ARE KEPT IN A FILE, MY NOTES ARE RECORDED.

THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM KEEPS DRAINING THE BATTERY. I HAVE TO KEEP A BATTERY JUMPER IN MY CAR BECAUSE THE BATTERY IS CONSTANTLY DEAD. I'M IN MY 2ND BATTERY AND HAVING TO JUMP STAR5 IT AT LEAST TWICE A MONTH AND THE CAR ONLY HAS 30,000 MILES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT TWO SEPARATE CRACKS HAD FORMED ON THE WINDSHIELD WITHOUT INCIDENT OR IMPACT. ON THE FIRST OCCASION, THE CONTACT STATED THAT A CRACK HAD FORMED ON THE MIDDLE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD. THE CONTACT HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED HOWEVER, ANOTHER CRACK HAD FORMED ON THE LOWER DRIVER SIDE OF THE REPLACEMENT WINDSHIELD, WITHOUT INCIDENT OR IMPACT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CRACKS OBSTRUCTED HER VIEW WHILE DRIVING. NEITHER THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 39,000. *DT

CAR WAS REAR ENDED (DRIVER SIDE REAR) AT FULL SPEED, WHICH THEN PUSHED US INTO A PARKING LOT, SPECIFICALLY THE CORNER WITH A CEMENT PILING WITH A LIGHT POLE WHICH COLLAPSED, NO AIRBAGS DEPLOYED.

I BOUGHT THE CAR 25 JUNE 2020 AND 3 DAYS INTO IT I GOT A CHIP GOING THEU AN AUTOMATED CAR WASH I CALLED SAFELITE AND THE INS COMPANY AND THEY REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD AND OUT OF NOWHERE I GET A CRACK COMING UP FROM BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD ON DRIVERS SIDE GOING UP TO WIPER AREA THE CAR SAT FOR 2 DAYS IN MY DRIVEWAY WHILE I DROVE MY OTHER VEHICLE PRIOR TO THIS FLORIDA HEAT IS BRUTAL I BELIEVE THIS IS A FAULTY WINDSHIELD YOU CANT SEE IT WELL UNLESS YOUR IN DRIVER SEAT OR CLEANING WINDSHIELD AD I AM OCD

A MINOR ROCK HIT ON HIGHWAY CAUSES WINDSHIELD CRACK FROM FROM BOTTOM NEAR WIPERS ALL THE WAY TO THE MIDDLE OF SCREEN.

A CRACK FORMED IN THE WINDSHIELD DURING NORMAL DRIVING, THERE WAS NO CHIP OR OBJECT THAT HIT THE WINDSHIELD THAT WOULD FORM A CRACK. IT IS A BIG S-SHAPED CURVE FROM THE TOP OF THE WINDSHIELD WHERE IT MEET THE ROOF DOWN TOWARD THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD BELOW THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED BY THE DEALER WITHIN THE LAST 6 WEEKS FROM A PRIOR CHIP AND CRACK.

THIS IS A RE-SUBMISSION OF COMPLAINT NO 11398779. PHOTO FILES FAILED TO UPLOAD. I HAD JUST ENTERED THE GOLF COURSE PARKING LOT AND HAD TURNED RIGHT TO ENTER A PERPENDICULAR PARKING SLOT. MY SPEED WAS LESS THAN 5 MPH. MY CAR SUDDENLY ACCELERATED OUT OF CONTROL, HIT A CONCRETE PARKING BLOCK (6 IN HIGH) AND THEN OVER A 1 FOOT HIGH WALL WHICH WAS 3 FEET FROM THE BLOCK. THE CAR ENDED UP ON A DOWN SLOPE AND THE REAR WHEEL FORTUNATELY CAUGHT ON A RETAINING WALL. I WAS NOT INJURED AND THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THERE WAS ONE WITNESS TO THIS TERRIFYING EVENT WHICH OCCURRED ON FEBRUARY 4, 2010 AT ABOUT 8:10 AM. IT OCCURRED IN A PART OF THE PARKING LOT I HAVE USED AT LEAST 50 TIMES IN THE PAST YEAR. SEVERAL MEMBERS HAVE SAID THEY ARE AFRAID OF PARKING IN THESE SPOTS AND WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN. THE COMPONENT THAT FAILED IS UNKNOWN TO ME, BUT I FEEL IT IS A DEFINITE SAFETY RISK. I WAS FULLY INSURED AND THE MINOR DAMAGE TO THE CAR WAS COVERED BY MY INSURANCE.

VEHICLE DESIGN SAFETY DEFECT: AFTER LOCKING DOORS WHILE SEATED IN VEHICLE MUST SELECT UNLOCK TO EXIT VEHICLE. IN AN EMERGENCY SAFETY DICTATES THAT PULLING DOOR OPEN LEVER WOULD OPEN DOOR IN ONE ACTION.

SAFETY DEFECT OPERATOR DATA: BLIND SPOT INDICATOR IS ONLY PRESENTED ON EXTERNAL REVIEW MIRROR. DATA SHOULD BE PROVIDED IN CENTER INSTRUMENT CLUSTER RATHER THAN HAVING TO DEFLECT FOCUS FROM DIRECTION OF TRAVEL.

DEAD BATTERY REQUIRING TOW SERVICE TO CHARGE BATTERY 4/2018 AND 5/2018. REPLACED BATTERY UNDER WARRANTY AFTER TESTING AT SUBARU 5/2018. DEAD BATTERY REQUIRING TOWING COMPANY CHARGE TIMES IN 5/2020 AND REPLACED BATTERY ON 5/14/2020. DEAD BATTERY NOW AGAIN IN 4/2021 REQUIRING TOWING COMPANY BATTERY CHARGE.

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK. IT DEVELOPED RANDOM SMALL CHIPS IN THE WINDSHIELD IN 4 DIFFERENT SPOTS ON THE WINDSHIELD I WAS DRIVING ON A SMALL NEIGHBORHOOD STREET, WHEN I NOTICED SPECS ON MY WINDSHIELD THAT WOULD NOT COME OFF UPON FURTHER INSPECTION I CAME TO REALIZE THEY WERE TINY CHIPS IN THE GLASS. I HAVE NO EXPLANATION AS TO HOW THOSE GOT THERE I WAS NOT IMPACTED BY ANYTHING FLYING AT MY WINDSHIELD. I HAD TO PAY OUT OF POCKET TO FIX ONE CHIP THAT GOT BIG ENOUGH TO POSSIBLY CRACK THE OTHER 3 I WAS TOLD BY THE SAFELIGHT EMPLOYEE THAT I WOULD GET LOTS OF THEM AND I DIDN'T NEED TO DO ANYTHING UNTIL THEY CHIPPED OR CRACKED DEEPER. HE INFORMED ME THAT THE SUBARU GLASS IS VERY THIN AND CHIPS AND CRACKS EASILY HE HAS MANY SUBARU'S THAT COME IN FOR THIS PROBLEM. THE WAY THE CHIPS ARE STARTING OUT VERY TINY AND HOW THEY ARE SPACED OUT LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THIS IS SOMETHING SUBARU SHOULD BE MADE AWARE AND RECALL AND REPLACE. MY HUSBAND JUST PURCHASED A CROSS TREK AND NO SURPRISE AFTER INSPECTING HIS WINDSHIELD WE FOUND TWO VERY TINY SMALL CHIPS IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS ON HIS WINDSHIELD. I WAS TOLD TO TRY AND KEEP MY WINDSHIELD COOL AND OUT OF THE SUN TO TRY AND PREVENT ANYMORE CHIPPING OR CRACKING. IF I HAD KNOWN THE SUBARU OUTBACK HAD THIS DEFECT I NEVER WOULD HAVE PURCHASED THIS CAR.

THE WINDOW CRACKED FROM THE INSIDE STARTING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FRONT WINDOW. THERE ARE ALSO MULTIPLE CRACKS ON OTHER PARTS OF THE WINDOWS.

HAVE THE CAR 5 YEARS, HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY NOW TWICE. ONCE AT 2 YEARS AND ONCE A YEAR AND A HALF LATER. I OWN A 2014 VW BEETLE AND STILL HAVE NOT HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.

I AM EXPERIENCING REPEATED BATTERY DRAIN LEAVING THE VEHICLE UNABLE TO START. THE DEALER SAYS I AM LEAVING SOMETHING ELECTRICAL "ON" WHEN I PARK IT. IT HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THAT I CARRY A STARTER JUMP PACK BATTERY TO GET IT GOING WHEN THE BATTERY GOES DEAD. THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT BATTERY RATING IS 200 COLD CRANK AMPS BELOW THE STANDARD OF 550 CCA SEEN IN MOST CARS. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE I FIRST PURCHASED THE VEHICLE NEW.

THE HEADLIGHTS (HID WITH AUTO-LEVELING) ARE POINTED DANGEROUSLY LOW. THEY DO NOT ILLUMINATE THE ROAD AHEAD FAR ENOUGH. A DRIVER WOULD HAVE VERY LITTLE TIME TO REACT, GIVEN THIS LIMITED ILLUMINATION DISTANCE. SUBARU DEALERSHIPS ARE ADAMANT THE HEADLIGHTS ARE ADJUSTED TO SPECIFICATIONS. THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ISSUE ALL OVER THE INTERNET FROM OWNERS, AND THE DEALERSHIPS I'VE MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO HAVE EXPLAINED THEY ARE AWARE OF THE COMPLAINTS, BUT THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO. I AM VERY WORRIED FOR OUR SAFETY AND FOR THE PEDESTRIANS/VEHICLES WE WOULD NOT SEE IN TIME TO STOP. WE PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE NEW, AND THIS IS NOT A NEW ISSUE. I HAVE TRIED TO ADDRESS IT FOR SEVERAL YEARS. WHEN THE VEHICLE IS ACCELERATING FROM A STOPLIGHT, FOR EXAMPLE, THE HEADLIGHTS ARE BASICALLY FINE (GIVEN THE SHIFT OF WEIGHT TO THE REAR WHICH HAS THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE AIMED A BIT HIGHER), BUT AS SOON AS THE VEHICLE LEVELS OUT, THE ISSUE IS VERY EVIDENT. THE AUTOMATIC HIGH BEAM FEATURE SIMPLY DOES NOT COMPENSATE, AS THE AUTOMATIC HIGH BEAMS ARE NOT INTUITIVE ENOUGH TO PERFECTLY ACTIVATE AND STAY ACTIVATED EVERY TIME (IT MISREADS SURROUNDING STREET LIGHTS, FOR EXAMPLE, AS ONCOMING HEADLIGHTS VERY EASILY.

THIS CAR HAS HAD REPEATED ELECTRICAL ISSUES. THE CAR IS ON IT'S THIRD BATTERY IN 4 YEARS. SUUBARU PAID FOR THE LAST "AFTERMARKET" BATTERY BASED ON MY REQUEST AND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS FROM OTHERS. THE SAFETY ISSUE CAME UP FROM THE LAST PROBLEM: THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. THIS TOO IS A COMMON PROBLEM. THE DEALER REPLACED THE SENSOR IN THE GEAR SHIFT MECHANISM TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS OWNERS ARE POSTING WORKAROUNDS ON LINE TO GET AROUND THIS PROBLEM. THE WORKAROUNDS GET AROUND THE ISSUE. HOWEVER, BY DISCONNECTING WIRES THE KEY CAN BE REMOVED IN ANY POSITION, INCLUDING WHILE THE CAR IS IN GEAR AND MOVING. THAT IS CLEARLY A POTENTIAL PROBLEM. THIS REPAIR WAS MADE APPROXIMATELY THREE WEEKS AGO. TWO DAYS AGO THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEPLETED AND THE TAILGATE WOULD NOT FUNCTION. I BROUGHT THIS TO SUBARU'S ATTENTION. THIS TIME THEY SAID I WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THEY WOULD NOT ASSIST (I WAS OUT OF WARRANTY ON THE IGNITION SWITCH AND BATTERY ISSUES). I BELIEVE THERE IS A FUNDAMENTAL PROBLEM IN THIS GENERATION OF SUBARU'S THAT NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED. A SIMPLE SEARCH OF THE SUBARU OUTBACK FORUM FOR KEY RELEASE PROBLEMS WILL VERIFY MY ASSERTION. SUBARU NEEDS TO COME CLEAN ON THE ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING DEFICIENCIES IMPACTING SAFETY AND RELIABILITY.

BATTERY KEEPS DRAINING EVEN AFTER BEING REPLACED KEY SENSOR ALSO ALWAYS GOES OFF THAT KEY IS NOT IN CAR WHEN DRIVING

I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE USED FROM A DEALERSHIP ON 02/09/2021. ON 03/31/2021 WHILE DRIVING THE CAR, I NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD NEAR THE TOP CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD. UPON FURTHER EXPLORATION, I NOTICED THE CRACK EXTENDED FROM THE TOP-CENTER, DOWN ABOUT 4 INCHES AND THEN ANOTHER 6 INCHES TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN INVOLVED IN ANY CRASH OR ACCIDENT IN THE SIX WEEKS I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. THE CRACK SEEMS TO HAVE APPEARED OUT OF NOWHERE.

I RECENTLY STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH REMOVING MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I COULD REMOVE IT MOST OF THE TIME AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS AND MESSING WITH THE SHIFTER AND STEERING WHEEL ETC. BUT THERE WAS AT LEAST ONE TIME THAT I HAD AN APPOINTMENT AND COULD NOT AFTER 10 MINUTES, REMOVE THE KEY. I HAD TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION WITH THE CAR IN THE PARTIALLY "ON" SETTING. I TOOK THIS INTO SUBARU DEALERSHIP TO GET IT FIXED ON 25MAR2021. I DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE, BUT THAT SUBARU DECIDED IT WASN'T A SAFETY ISSUE. I HAD TO PAY ABOUT $500 TO REPAIR THIS ISSUE. I BEG TO DIFFER THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. LEAVING THE KEYS IN THE IGNITION BECAUSE I COULD NOT REMOVE THEM IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE 1) AN UN-LICENSED DRIVER OR YOUNGSTER COULD HAVE GOTTEN IN THE CAR AND STARTED DRIVING IT; OR 2) A CRIMINAL COULD HAVE GOTTEN IN THE CAR AND WAITED FOR ME TO RETURN WITH MALICIOUS INTENTIONS AND 3) OR THE CAR COULD HAVE SIMPLY BEEN STOLEN. I ALSO CONTACTED MY INSURANCE REP AND FOUND OUT THAT IF A CAR IS STOLEN WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, THAT THIS WOULD BE A NON COVERED CLAIM. EVEN IF IT WAS PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME TO REMOVE THE KEYS.

IN HOME DRIVEWAY, CAR WON'T START, BATTERY DEAD. TOWED TO DEALER, BATTERY GOOD BUT NEEDED CHARGE. DEC11, 2020, IN DRIVEWAY, CAR WON'T START, AND CLICKING NOISE IN REAR POWER GATE, TOWED TO DEALER. BATTERY TESTED BAD, REPLACED. ALSO REPLACED PRG MODULE FOR REAR GATE. MAR 8, 2021, IN DRIVEWAY AT HOME, WON'T START. JUMPED AND DROVE TO DEALER...(THIS NEW BATTERY) CHARGED AND TESTED, FAILED, SO THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY, AGAIN. "PARASITIC DRAW TEST FOUND 45MA OF DRAW, BELOW MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE DRAW SPECIFICATION OF 70MA. VERIFIED CORRECT AND NORMAL OPERATION. TEST CODE:. K1GKF40-2FCL091"

IT LOOKS LIKE THE CAR BLEEDS THE BATTERY. VEHICLE PURCHASE: OCT 2016 I HAD MY OEM BATTERY REPLACED DUE IT IT DYING IN < 3 YEARS. (SEPTEMBER 2019) I REPLACED IT WITH DURALAST GOLD AND THAT ALSO DIED IN 2.5 YEARS. (FEB 2021) DURING THE COLD WAVE IN TEXAS, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. I CHALKED IT UP AS COLD WEATHER AND WENT ON. BUT THIS PAST WEEK IT DIED ALL OF A SUDDEN AND I HAD TO GET IT REPLACED VIA WARRANTY. I RAN A BLUE DRIVER REPORT AND IT SHOWS LOW VOLTAGE ERRORS FOR SOME COMPONENTS. THIS SOUNDS LIKE THE SAME ONGOING LAWSUIT FOR BATTERY DRAIN ISSUE.

WHEN THE CAR IS SHUT OFF, SOMETHING IS DRAINING THE BATTERY SO THAT IT VERY OFTEN DOES NOT START IN THE MORNING.

AFTER 2 YEARS OF USE, THE OEM BATTERY WAS NOT KEEPING THE CHARGE OR WAS DRAINING DUE TO AN ISSUE WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I HAD TO HAVE THE CAR JUMPED A COUPLE OF TIMES TO GET IT STARTED. BROUGHT THE CAR TO SUBARU DEALER AND THEY DID NOT FIND ANY ISSUES BUT REPLACED THE BATTERY WITH ANOTHER OEM BATTERY, QUITE UNUSUAL UNTIL I READ AN ARTICALE ABOUT A CLASS ACTION SUIT AGAINST SUBARU. IN 2020, THE NEW OEM BATTERY WAS HAVING ISSUES REQUIRING I JUMP IT SEVERAL TIMES. I WAS AWAY FROM HOME AT THE TIME AND BROUGHT THE CAR TO ADVANCED AUTO PARTS. THEY TESTED THE 2ND OEM BATTERY AND ADVISED THE BATTERY WAS BAD AND NOT HOLDING THE CHARGE. AT THAT TIME I PURCHASED A DIEHARD BATTERY AND HAVE HAD NO ISSUES IN THE LAST 6 MONTHS. AS I STATED ABOVE, I HAVE READ THAT SUBARU IS IN A CLASS ACTION SUIT FOR THE EXACT ISSUE I HAD AND WANTED TO HAVE THIS ISSUE RECORDED.

BATTERY DIED TWICE WHEN CAR WAS INACTIVE FOR ONE WEEK. BOTH TIMES HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY.

BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY NEEDED REPLACEMENT 11/14/2019.

BATTERY APPEARS TO DRAIN OVER A RELATIVELY SHORT PERIOD OF TIME RESULTING IN: P1604 STARTABILITY MALFUNCTION, B2320 BACK &SIDE RADAR LOW VOLTAGE, C1413 ANTILOCK BRAKES VOLTAGE MALFUNCTION, B2500 POWER LIFT GATE VOLTAGE MALFUNCTION, B2A07 TELEMATICS BATTERY CHARGE HISTORY FAULT, B1011 BATTERY POWER SUPPLY CONTROL MALFUNCTION, B1013 IGNITION POWER SUPPLY FAILURE, AND B1014 ACCESSORY POWER SUPPLY FAILURE. ALL IS TAKING PLACE WHILE VEHICLE IS PARKED IN HEATED GARAGE.

MY 2017 SUBARU OUTBACK 2.5I LIMITED BEGAN HAVING DEAD BATTERY ISSUES AT NEARLY 15,000 MILES. THE FIRST INCIDENT HAPPENED WHILE VISITING THE CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST. THE CAR WOULD NOT START AFTER WE RETURNED FROM A SHORT HIKE. IT LEFT US STRANDED AND FORCED TO WALK 4.5 MILES TO GAIN CELL SERVICE TO CALL FOR HELP. MY CAR NOW HAS 36,000 MILES AS OF 3/16/21 AND IS ON ITS THIRD BATTERY. THIS TIME I BOUGHT THE BEST BATTERY I COULD FIND AND AM HOPING FOR THE BEST. SOMETHING KEEPS DRAINING THE BATTERY, LEAVING ME IN ONE BIND AFTER ANOTHER. WITH NO HELP DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM AT THE DEALERSHIP, WHAT MORE CAN I DO???

VEHICLE'S BATTERY WENT DEAD AT ABOUT 22,283 MILES IN JAN OF 2020. BATTERY WOULD KEEP DYING EVEN AFTER PROPER JUMPING. VEHICLE WAS BROUGHT IN TO DEALERSHIP. DEALERSHIP ADVISED OF SOFTWARE ISSUE DRAINING THE BATTERY. I WAS ADVISED THAT THEY DID AN UPDATE AND REPLACED BATTERY. A YEAR LATER, VEHICLE IS HAVING BATTERY ISSUES AGAIN (BATTERY KEPT DYING- MULTIPLE TIMES- EVEN AFTER DRIVING TO TRY TO "CHARGE" BATTERY). VEHICLE WAS BROUGHT INTO DEALERSHIP IN FEB 2021 AT 23,560 MILES. DIFFERENT STATEMENTS WERE MADE BY DEALERSHIP. I WAS TOLD THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE VEHICLE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NEEDING MORE POWER THAN THE BATTERY COULD PROVIDE. I WAS TOLD THEY HAD A SOLUTION, A BIGGER BATTERY. WHEN I PICKED UP MY CAR THEY JUST SWAPPED OUT THE BATTERY WITH THE SAME SIZE BATTERY. THEY DIDN'T TELL ME (TRIED TO HIDE IT). WHEN I CONFRONTED THEM, THEY ADVISED THAT SUBARU DIDN'T HAVE A FIX YET FOR THE DRAINING OF THE BATTERY. SUBARU SAYS I WILL JUST HAVE TO KEEP BRINGING IN MY VEHICLE EVERY TIME THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY UNTIL THEY COME OUT WITH A FIX. PLEASE NOTE: SUBARU APPEARS TO TRY AND HIDE THE ELECTRICAL ISSUE. NONE OF THIS INFORMATION WAS ON MY SERVICE PAPER WORK AND THEY ONLY SPOKE ABOUT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IN FEB 2021 AFTER I BROUGHT UP THE ISSUE AFTER READING FORUMS ON THE INTERNET ABOUT PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

BATTERY DRAINS FOR NO APPARENT REASON. LEAVES PEOPLE STRANDED.

DURING FIRST 3 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP OUR NEW CAR HAS FAILED TO START MANY TIMES AND EMERGENCY SERVICE CALLED TO JUMP START VEHICLE AS BATTERY WAS DISCHARGED AFTER POWER TRUNK OPENED WITHOUT ANY ACTIVATION WHILE PARKED IN OUR GARAGE. BATTERY DISCHARGED SEVERAL TIMES WITHOUT TRUNK ACTIVITY, SIMPLY PARKED OVERNIGHT IN OUR GARAGE WITH EVERYTHING ELECTRICAL CHECKED AND TURNED OFF. DEALER REPLACED BATTERY 4/20. BATTERY DISCHARGED AGAIN A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO (3/06/2021) WHILE HAVING TRUNK OPEN TO CLEAN INSIDE OF CAR. VERY CONCERNED AS TO BEING STRANDED AGAIN DUE TO SAFETY..

I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY TWICE ON MY OWN SINCE I WAS TOLD THEY AREN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE BATTERIES DISCHARGE ON THEIR OWN WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED. I HAVE TO USE A BATTERY CHARGER ALL THE TIME OR THE BATTERY IS DEAD WHEN I TRY TO START THE CAR. I PUT THE LAST BATTERY IN AROUND AUG 2020.

BATTERY DIED LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD. CAR WAS PARKED FOR ABOUT A WEEK AND WHEN I TRIED TO START IT IT WOULD NOT TURN OVER. TOOK TO DEALER AND THEY SAID THE BATTERY WAS DEAD.

OVER 4 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP (NEW WHEN PURCHASED IN FEB 2017) HAVE EXPERIENCED 6 OCCURRENCES (FIRST IN JAN 2018) OF VEHICLE FAILING TO START DUE TO DEAD BATTERY. ORIGINAL BATTERY REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY IN AUG 2019. AS OF TODAY (03/15/2021) BATTERY IS BEING REPLACED AGAIN BY DEALER AT MY COST. NO OTHER PROBLEMS IDENTIFIED BY DEALER. VEHICLE ALWAYS STATIONARY WHEN PROBLEM OCCURRED. APPROX 42K MILES ON ODOMETER.