2016 Subaru Outback complaints

BATTERY HAS DIED TWICE IN THE LAST 5 MONTHS WHEN NOTHING WAS LEFT ON AND THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK. IT CONTINUES TO DRAIN EVEN WHEN WE REPLACED WITH A HIGH LEVEL BATTERY

WE PURCHASED A 2016 OUTBACK IN 2019 WITH RELATIVELY LOW MILEAGE AND WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF OWNING THE BATTERY FAILED ON US MULTIPLE TIMES AND THE CAR REQUIRED A JUMP IN ORDER TO START. THIS HAPPENED WHEN ON GROCERY TRIPS, OUTSIDE OUR HOUSE IN THE MORNING, AND EVEN MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER WHEN RETURNING TO THE AIRPORT AFTER A BUSINESS TRIP. AFTER SEEING A MECHANIC, PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY AND STILL ENCOUNTERED THE SAME ISSUE. WE SAW A SECOND MECHANIC, AND PURCHASED A NEW ALTERNATOR RECENTLY AND CONTINUE TO HAVE FREQUENT BATTERY FAILURES, SOMETIMES AS OFTEN AS ONCE PER WEEK, REQUIRING A JUMP TO START THE CAR. THIS SEEMS VERY ODD GIVEN THE NEWNESS OF THE CAR, BATTERY, AND ALTERNATOR AND WE BELIEVE THERE IS SOMETHING DEFECTIVE WITH THE CAR WIRING. THIS MONTH WE HAD AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC LOOK AT THE CAR AND HE COULD FIND NO ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR, HIS THOUGHT WAS IT COULD BE DUE TO FAULTY VEHICLE WIRING. WE THEN RESEARCHED AND HEARD THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR OUR MODEL / YEAR AGAINST SUBARU FOR THIS AND BELIEVE OUR VEHICLE IS IMPACTED. THIS HAPPENS VERY OFTEN, WE NOW HAVE PURCHASED A PORTABLE BATTERY PACK SO WE CAN JUMP OUR CAR AS NEEDED AND AGAIN THE ISSUE HAPPENED THIS MORNING.

WINDSHIELDS KEEPS CRACKING. REPAIRS ARE EXPENSIVE BECAUSE OF EYESIGHT CALIBRATION. WINDSHIELD CRACKED SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE IN EARLY 2018, REPAIRED IT IMMEDIATELY, THEN CRACKED AGAIN WITHIN 2 OR 3 MONTHS. CRACK BOTH TIMES SPREAD MORE THAN 6 INCHES IN LESS THAN AN HOUR.

BATTERY IS DRAINED PREMATURELY. POSSIBLY BY A DRAIN FROM THE ECM. I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AFTER ONLY 1 YEAR OF USE.

BATTERY DIES WHEN PARKED IN GARAGE, SOMETIMES ONLY AFTER SITTING OVERNIGHT. CAREFUL TO BE SURE NO LIGHTS ARE LEFT ON OR DOORS AJAR. I'M NOW ON MY THIRD BATTERY IN 4 YEARS. REPLACED OEM BATTERY WITH UP SIZED GROUP 34 TO INCREASE CCA AND RESERVE CAPACITY. ALSO PURCHASED A LITHIUM ION JUMP STARTER TO CARRY AROUND IN CASE OF DEAD BATTERY. THE UPSIZED BATTERY BEGAN FAILING AGAIN AFTER 2 YEARS. REPLACED WITH UPSIZED AGM BATTERY. CAN'T TRUST THE CAR TO SAFELY TRANSPORT MY WIFE AND GRANDCHILDREN ANYMORE.

I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY YET WHEN TRAVELING I NEED TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, RESTART THE CAR STRESSING MY IGNITION SYSTEM, OR MOVE SLIGHTLY IN REVERSE AND BACK TO PARK TO REMOVE THE KEY. EACH TIME IS DIFFERENT, SOMETIMES I CAN REMOVE THE KEY, SOMETIMES I CANNOT.

WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED UP ON A COLD MORNING IT IDLES TOO FAST AND LURCHES DANGEROUSLY WHEN PUT INTO DRIVE. I HAVE TO HOLD THE CAR BACK WITH FIRM BRAKING. I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS CLOSE CALLS OVER THE LAST FOUR YEARS THAT I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. THE CAR IS A 2016 OUTBACK 3.6 R WITH A 6 CYLINDER ENGINE.

MY KEYS KEPT GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION BECAUSE OF AN ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION THAT CAUSED THE STEERING COLUMN TO BE UNABLE TO DETECT WHEN THE CAR WAS PUT INTO PARK. I HAD THE ENTIRE GEAR SHIFTER REPLACED. THIS SEEMS TO BE A FAR TOO COMMON PROBLEM ON THIS MODEL OF SUBARU OUTBACKS. THIS IS THE NUMBER 1 CAR COMPLAINT AND THOUSANDS OF FOLKS ON FORUMS REPORT THE SAME ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HER VEHICLE WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY OF HER RESIDENCE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT ASKED A NEIGHBOR FOR ASSISTANCE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE BATTERY WAS TAKEN OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE A NEW BATTERY WAS PURCHASED. (BATTERY TYPE INTERSTATE 25-550 FITMENT 6). THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED BY THE TECHNICIAN. NO DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT NO KNOWLEDGE OF THE FAILURE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 24,000.*DT CONSUMER STATED BATTERY DIED A YEAR LATER AFTER REPLACEMENT.*JB

A VALVE SPRING FAILED, CAUSING THE VALVE TO BREAK AND BECOME EMBEDDED IN THE PISTON.THIS CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO BE INOPERABLE.

WITH 39000+ MILES ON WE ARE ON 3RD BATTERY. WAITING FOR RELATIVE TO HELP..HUSBAND DISABLED AND HAD TO CANCEL DR APPT TODAY AS IT WOULD NOT START...SCARED TO GO ANYWHERE FOR FEAR IT WILL NOT START. NOT GOOD.FORTUNATELY MOST TIMES IT HAS BEEN IN THE GARAGE. ALWAYS GARAGED.

II WAS DRIVING ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY WITH NO CARS IN CLOSE VICINITY WHEN WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO APPARENT REASON. CRACK WAS ON DRIVER SIDE NEAR EDGE ABOUT 12 INCHES LONG. ON INVESTIGATION, THERE WERE NO NICKS OR PITS IN THE WINDSHIELD, JUST THE CRACK. WHEN THE WINDSHIELD WAS BEING REPLACED, THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT IT WAS WIERD THAT A SIMILAR CRACK DEVELOPED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD AS HE WAS REMOVING THE SHIELD FROM THE CAR.

CURRENTLY AT LEAST A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK, MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHILE SHUTTING OFF VEHICLE TO PARK. YOU CAN TURN THE VEHICLE OFF, BUT YOU CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY. IF I FIDDLE WITH THE SHIFTER AND ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL, RESTART THE VEHICLE, AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE, AND THEN SLAM IT BACK INTO PARK, THEN I CAN TURN THE VEHICLE OFF AND THE KEY WILL COME OUT. . BUT SOMETIMES I HAVE TO REPEAT THE PROCEDURE A FEW TIMES. THIS STARTED WHEN VEHICLE WAS APPROX A YEAR OLD AND I THOUGHT THAT MAYBE I HAD THE STEERING WHEEL NOT IN THE CORRECT LOCATION FOR THE KEY TO BE REMOVED AS TIME PASSED THE PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT WORSE. I THEN DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT A LOT OF OTHERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE.

SUBARU SERVICE DEPARTMENT BERTERA SUBARU OF HARTFORD STATING IGNITION SWITCH PLATE NEEDS REPLACEMENT $650 JOB MULTIPLE OCCURRENCES WITH OTHER VEHICLES OF SAME MODEL YEAR

FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED, ORIGINATING FROM THE EDGE OF THE WINDOW, ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO WHILE PARKED WITHOUT ANY OVERHANGING HAZARDS OR ADVERSE WEATHER. THERE IS NO ASSOCIATED GLASS 'DING' FROM AN IMPACT. I BELIEVE THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM THAT LED TO A LAWSUIT AGAINST SUBARU INVOLVING 2015-2016 OUTBACK'S.

I HAVE HAD 3 BATTERIES REPLACED IN THE PAST FOUR YEARS. PERIODICALLY THE BATTERY JUST DRAINS UNEXPECTEDLY AND I AM STUCK WHEREVER THE VEHICLE HAPPENS TO BE PARKED. THIS IS NOT A RESULT OF LIGHTS BEING LEFT ON, DOORS OPEN, RADIO ON, ETC. SUBARU REPLACES THE BATTERIES UNDER WARRANTY, BUT WILL NOT ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AND I NEVER KNOW WHEN THE CAR WILL GET STUCK BECAUSE OF A DRAINED BATTERY.

WE PURCHASED A CAR BRAND NEW IN SAVANNAH, GA AND SINCE HAVE REPLACED WINDSHIELD THREE TIMES. IT HAS A SMALL CRACK AGAIN. ALL OUR REPLACEMENTS OCCURRED AGAINST OUR INSURANCE. OUR COVERAGE HAS INCREASE IN PREMIUMS. PREVIOUSLY, I NEVER HAD AN ISSUE WITH WINDSHIELD CRACKED ON REGULAR OCCURRENCE. ANOTHER ISSUE - WHEN IT RAINS THE VISIBILITY IS EXTREMELY POOR. DESPITE I BUY THE EXPENSIVE WIPERS TO REPLACE THEM AT LEAST ONCE IN 12 MONTHS UNABLE TO ADJUST/INCREASE THE WIPER SPEED FOR THE HEAVY RAIN MAKES THE DRIVING EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. OPTIONAL EYESIGHT WHICH WAS ADDED AS AN OPTION IS SHUTS ITSELF DUE TO THE HEAVY RAIN AND IS NO HELP. EYESIGHT IS ALSO UNDERPERFORM WHAT WAS PROMISED BY MANUFACTURER. ALL ABOVE APPLIES FOR VEHICLE IN MOTION.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, THE TRANSMISSION IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK STARTED MAKING A LOUD GRINDING SOUND AND VIOLENTLY HALTED THE CAR TO A STOP. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH THAT IT WASN'T DURING A BUSY TIME AND AN ACCIDENT WAS NARROWLY AVOIDED. THIS TRANSMISSION ONLY HAD 67,000 MILES ON IT AND IS ACTUALLY THE SECOND TRANSMISSION THAT CAR HAS HAD. IN 2018 THE TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER 68,000 MILES. LUCKILY IT WAS FULLY COVERED UNDER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY I PURCHASED WHEN I BOUGHT IT. LATER THE TRANSMISSIONS WERE GIVEN A WARRANTY EXTENSION WHICH EXTENDED THE WARRANTY TO 100,000. THE NEWEST TRANSMISSION (THE ONE THAT JUST VIOLENTLY GRINDED TO A HALT ON THE HIGHWAY) CURRENTLY HAS 67,000 MILES ON THAT NEW TRANSMISSION, BUT SUBARU WILL NOT HONOR THE 100,000 WARRANTY EXTENSION BECAUSE THE REMAINDER OF THE VEHICLE HAS 135,000 MILES ON IT. I DO COUNT MYSELF LUCKY THAT THIS DIDN'T CAUSE AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE I HAD MY FAMILY IN THE VEHICLE WITH ME AND WE COULD'VE BEEN SERIOUSLY HURT.

WITHOUT WARNING THE SUNROOF GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING 40 MILES PER HOUR

WE HAVE HAD 2 MAJOR ISSUES WITH THIS CAR: 1- MULTIPLE EPISODES OF BATTERY FAILURE REQUIRING A JUMP START OVER THE LAST YEAR. THIS HAS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WAS NOT USED FOR A WEEK, BUT ALSO RANDOMLY AFTER A DRIVE. JUST HAPPENED 4 DAYS AGO AFTER A 30 MINUTE HIGHWAY DRIVE- WHEN WE CAME BACK OUT TO THE CAR AFTER 15 MINUTES, IT WOULDN'T START. WE JUMP STARTED IT, AND IT WAS FINE FOR A FEW DAYS, BUT NOW DEAD AGAIN IN MY DRIVEWAY. THE CAR OFTEN HAS A SHUDDERING AND OCCASIONAL STALL WHEN STARTING IT. MOST WORRISOME, I WAS RECENTLY DRIVING WITH MY DAUGHTER AND AFTER WE EXITED THE HIGHWAY, AND SLOWED DOWN FOR A TOLL, THE CAR LOST IT'S ACCELERATION, DESPITE RPMS REVVING. WE PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, TURNED THE CAR OFF AND RE-STARTED, AND IT RAN REGULARLY HOME, BUT THIS WAS FRIGHTENING.

WHEN THE LIFTGATE IS CLOSING A "CLICKING" NOISE IS MADE DUE TO STRESS ON THE LIFTGATE MOTOR. THIS IS CAUSED BECAUSE OF THE SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF STRAIN ON THE MOTOR TO OPEN THE LIFTGATE. THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE THE MOTOR WAS DESIGNED TO BE UNDER SIGNIFICANT STRESS AND WHEN IT FAILS, WILL CAUSE THE LIFTGATE TO FALL POTENTIALLY INJURING MY CHILDREN UNLOADING THE TRUNK. THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP AGREED THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED BUT DOES NOT COVER THE COST OF REPAIRING THIS SAFETY ISSUE.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN TURNED OFF. INTERMITTENT ISSUE, APPEARS MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE PROBLEM. APPEARS THAT DEALERS WANT TO CHARGE BIG $$ TO FIX, SUBARU NEEDS TO STEP UP, THERE IS A TSP ON THIS ISSUE

WHEN YOU SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF THEY KEY GETS STUCK IN ACCESSORY MODE AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. PROBLEM OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY.

BATTERY DIES UNEXPECTEDLY WITHIN A FEW MINUTES OF THE VEHICLE OFF AND IN ACCESSORY MODE ONLY (I.E. CAR OFF, RADIO OR LIGHTS ON). VEHICLE WILL NOT START WITHOUT JUMP FROM BATTERY PACK OR ANOTHER VEHICLE. CAR WILL NOT EVEN CRANK BUT WILL ONLY MAKE A CLICKING NOISE. OCCASIONALLY, ENGINE TIMING WILL BE AFFECTED AFTER JUMP AND MISFIRES WILL OCCUR CAUSING VEHICLE TO RUN VERY ROUGH UNTIL RESTARTED, AT WHICH POINT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SEEMS TO RESET ITSELF. TO DATE, DEALER HAS FOUND NO DIRECT CAUSE FOR THE PROBLEM (I.E. NO PARASITIC DRAWS) BUT HAS REPLACED THE BATTERY (WHICH ARE UNDER WARRANTY) MULTIPLE TIMES. PROBLEM HAS OCCURRED NUMEROUS TIMES SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED IN LATE 2015.

ABOUT 4 WEEKS AGO WE STARTED HAVING TROUBLE REMOVING OUR KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER DRIVING AND PUTTING THE SHIFTER IN PARK. OUR 2015 OUTBACK HAS JUST OVER 58,000 MILES. THE KEY WON'T TURN TO THE FINAL "CLICK" FOR REMOVAL. THAT LEAVES THE CAR IN A MODE WHERE THE BATTERY IS STILL ENGAGED AS THE RADIO IS STILL ON. THE STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT GO INTO A LOCKED POSITION, IT CAN BE TURNED EITHER DIRECTION WITHOUT RESISTANCE. I HAVE TO START THE CAR AGAIN AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE AND TRY TURNING THE CAR OFF AGAIN. SOMETIMES I ONLY HAVE TO DO THAT ONCE BUT THERE HAVE BEEN MANY TIMES WHEN IT TAKES 20-30 ATTEMPTS TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. I'M USUALLY ON A FAIRLY FLAT SURFACE. IT DOESN'T MATTER IF I WAS DRIVING FORWARD OR REVERSE BEFORE STOPPING. SUBARU RELEASED A SERVICE BULLETIN # 16-112-18R ISSUED 03/15/18 AND REVISED 11/06/18 THAT DESCRIBES THE PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION BUT SUBARU SAYS IT IS NOT A RECALL ISSUE. THEY ADMIT IT'S A FAULTY PARTS PROBLEM BUT WON'T FIX IT IN A RECALL. ACCORDING TO THE SERVICE BULLETIN I SHOULD REPLACE "SHIFT LEVER COMPLETE". SOME OWNERS WHO HAD THIS DONE SAID IT'S OVER $500 TO REPAIR, DEPENDING ON THE DEALERSHIP.

SINCE PURCHASING VEHICLE ON 6/16/2016 WE HAVE HAD A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW ENGAGING THE AUTO-REVERSING (ANTI-ENTRAPMENT) FEATURE CAUSING AN INABILITY TO CLOSE WINDOW. WE HAVE MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES SOMETIMES DOCUMENTED, SOMETIMES NOT. THEY RESET SWITCH, ONLY FOR THE PROBLEM TO RETURN. ON OUR LAST VISIT6/31/2020 WE WERE TOLD THERE WAS A TSB (12-272-19R) BUT WE WOULD BE CHARGED $276.22 FOR THE REPAIR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE COVERED. WE ALSO PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $2547.00 GOOD UNTIL 6/16/2026 OR 126000 MILES AND WERE TURNED DOWN ON COVERAGE FROM THEM AS WELL.

MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ALL OF SUDDEN HAD WARNING LIGHTS SUCH AS: BRAKE, ABS, AND STABILITY TRACTION CONTROL POPPED UP ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK ANS WHEN I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WILL NOT GO AWAY. IT HAS MADE MY STEERING WHEEL REALLY HARD TO TURN.

THE BATTERY IN THE CAR HAS FAILED 4 TIMES IN 4 YEARS. SUBARU CANNOT FIND THE REASON FOR THE FAILURE. THIS IS NOT NORMAL AND APPEARS TO BE DEFECT IN THE CAR. I AM NOT GETTING ANY ANSWERS FROM SUBARU ON WHY IS THIS HAPPENING.THE CAR WAS PARKED AT HOME OVER NIGHT THE OTHER 2 TIMES JUST AFTER ARRIVING AT OUR CAMP SITE. WE STOP THE CAR AND THEN SHORTLY ATTEMPT TO RESTART THE CAR AND NOTHING HAPPENS. EACH TIME THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN HUNDRED OF MILES. EACH CAMPING TIME WE WERE HUNDREDS OF MILES FROM HOME AND WITHOUT CELL PHONE SERVICE. I HAVE REPORTS FROM SUBARU AND AUTO ZONE ON REPLACING THE BATTERIES.

THE BATTERY PREMATURELY DIES, TYPICALLY AFTER USING THE RADIO OR OTHER ACCESSORIES FOR ONLY A SHORT WHILE (10 MINUTES) WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MY VEHICLE 2 TIMES IN THE LAST 4 MONTHS. IN BOTH CASES, THE BATTERY HAS BEEN TESTED AND SHOWN TO BE FINE.

THE CAR IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF. BESIDES BEING ANNOYING, THIS PREVENTS THE CAR FROM BEING LOCKED THUS INTRODUCES A THEFT RISK. EVENTUALLY, WE ARE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY BUT THERE IS NO CONSISTENT METHOD OF DOING SO. IT'S A MATTER OF TIME AND MESSING WITH TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF, MOVING THE SHIFTER, JIGGLING THE KEY, OR MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE IT COMES OUT. GOOGLE INDICATES THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH SUBARUS SO I DON'T KNOW WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. THIS HAPPENS SPORADICALLY AND HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS.

I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWICE IN TWO YEARS. NORMAL OPERATION DRAINS BATTERY PREMATURELY.

THIS MORNING 7/21/2020 MY BATTERY FAILED FOR THE 4TH TIME IN 4 YEARS. I PURCHASED THE CAR NEW ON 2/29/2016-YES LEAP YEAR. EACH TIME THE BATTERY WAS TOTALLY DRAINED. THE ORIGINAL SUBARU BATTERY WAS REPLACED WITH A BETTER DELCO BATTERY, AND THEN ANOTHER BETTER DELCO BATTER 18 MONTHS AGO AND NOW TODAY! STILL WAITING AT THE GARAGE. MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE BUT NO RECALLS! SOMETHING IS DRAWING THE BATTERY DOWN WHICH TO ME IS A SAFETY ISSUE. WHEN DO ENOUGH COMPLAINTS WARRANT A RECALL? THIS IS ABSURD. EACH TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED MY SUBARU WAS IN AN UNDERGROUND GARAGE.

THIS MORNING 7/21/2020 MY BATTERY FAILED FOR THE 4TH TIME IN A LITTLE OVER 4 YEARS. DEAD, COMPLETELY DRAINED ACCORDING TO AAA. FIRST THE ORIGINAL SUBARU BATTERY, THEN A BETTER DELCO REPLACED THAT, THEN ANOTHER BETTER DELCO, NOW ANOTHER. ONLY 27,000 PLUS MILES. I HAVE NEEDED TO HAVE THIS BATTERY JUMPED ONCE BEFORE AND THE PREVIOUS BATTERIES WERE JUMPED A TOTAL OF 5 TIMES. THE NHTSA WEBSITE HAS NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT BATTERY FAILURE FOR THIS MAKE/MODEL AND OTHER SUBARU OUTBACKS BUT NO RECALLS. WHY NOT? THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE! I AM TOLD THAT "SOMETHING" IN THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IS DRAWING DOWN THE BATTERY BUT IT CANNOT BE FOUND. THERE IS A FLAW SOMEWHERE. NOTHING WAS LEFT ON. SUBARU OF AMERICA HAS TO KNOW ABOUT THIS. REALLY

THE IGNITION KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO STOP THE VEHICLE TO PARK, THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN PROBLEM AS FAR AS INTERNET REPORTS GO YET SUBARU HAS NOT BEEN CALLED OUT ON THIS. THIS MEANS THAT THE CUSTOMER MY BE REQUIRED TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION SHOULD SOME OTHER EMERGENCY ARISE.

FOR A FEW YEARS OFF AND ON WITH THE CAR STOPPED AND ATTEMPTING TO COMPLETE PARKING, THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN FROM THE ACC TO OFF POSITION OR RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. OF THE SEVERAL TIMES WE MENTIONED IT TO MULTIPLE DEALERSHIPS, WE WERE TOLD IT WAS OUR TECHNIQUE, NOT A PROBLEM WITH THE VEHICLE. FINALLY A DEALERSHIP REPORTED THE SHIFT ASSEMBLY WAS NOT RECOGNIZING THE CAR WAS IN PARK THUS WOULD NOT TURN THE KEY PAST THE ACCESSORY POSITION TO OFF OR RELEASE THE KEY. THIS OCCURRED WITH MULTIPLE KEYS AND DIFFERENT PEOPLE. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS THAT YOU CANNOT LOCK THE CAR WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. ALSO, IF YOU CANNOT REMOVE THE KEY AND LEAVE THE CAR, YOU ARE HANDING THE CAR OVER TO WHOMEVER WANTS TO STEAL IT. ONLY WITH LOTS OF TIME, STARTING THE CAR, PUTTING IT INTO ANOTHER GEAR, THEN BACK TO PARK AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN, WITH LUCK THE ASSEMBLY RECOGNIZES YOU ARE IN PARK AND ALLOWS THE KEY TURN TO OFF AND ALLOWS THE KEY TO BE REMOVED. THE DEALERSHIP WHO IDENTIFIED THE DEFECTIVE SHIFT ASSEMBLY STATED THE ONLY FIX IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY AT A COST OF $1100.00.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I TRY TO TURN THE CAR OFF (EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS IN PARK). BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ, THIS IS A DEFECT WITH A SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. I THINK THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THIS PARTICULAR DEFECT. I BELIEVE THE SERVICE BULLETIN THAT ADDRESSES THIS DEFECT IS TSB NUMBER 16-112-18R.

THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE APPROX 50% OF THE TIME. KEY STAYS IN THE "ON" POSITION WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. THE CAR HAS TO BE RESTARTED, SHIFTED INTO REVERSE, THEN FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE KEY CAN SAFELY BE REMOVED. IF LEFT IN THE IGNITION THE BATTERY IS STILL ON, AND A CHILD COULD INADVERTENTLY START THE CAR. THIS IS CLEARLY IDENTIFIED AS A PROBLEM IN SUBARU SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER: 16-112-18R DATE: 03/15/18 REVISED: 11/06/18 THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL! THEY HAVE CHANGED THE PART TO PREVENT THIS IN NEWER MODELS. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR OVER A YEAR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH FAILED TO ALLOW THE REMOVAL OF THE KEY WHILE THE GEAR SHIFTER WAS IN THE PARK POSITION. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WITH THE GEAR SHIFTER IN THE DRIVE POSITION. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 24,000.

WE WERE DRIVING ON I5 NORTH THROUGH WASHINGTON ON A ROADTRIP (GOING ~65MPH), ABOUT TO ENTER A THUNDERSTORM, AND OUR MOONROOF UNEXPECTEDLY SHATTERED, MAKING AN EXPLOSION SOUND. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS HURT AND WE WERE ABLE TO GO TO A NEARBY FORD DEALERSHIP TO HELP US PATCH THE CAR SO WE COULD MAKE OUR 2+ HOUR DRIVE HOME, BUT IT WAS ABSOLUTELY TERRIFYING. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH, WE THINK IT'S IN RELATION TO THE PRESSURE DIFFERENCE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. THERE WAS LITTLE GLASS IN THE CAR, MAKING IT SEEM AS IF THE EXPLOSION WAS COMING FROM INSIDE. NO ROCK OR DEBRIS HITTING THE CAR WAS NOTICED. HERE'S MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ISSUE FROM AN ARTICLE LAST YEAR THAT REFERENCED NHTSA: HTTPS://WWW.KGW.COM/ARTICLE/NEWS/LOCAL/MY-SUNROOF-EXPLODED-GOVERNMENT-INVESTIGATING-EXPLODING-SUNROOFS/283-C529D7E5-F2C4-488E-AE34-96F781AD5466.

MY 2016 OUTBACK ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO HAD A DEAD BATTERY WHILE OUT ON A FAMILY TRIP TO ARKANSAS. JUST TOOK A BATTERY BUMP FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE AND WORKED FINE. THEN THIS FRIDAY IT RAN FINE FOR FIVE HOURS AWAY FROM HOME. SATURDAY MORNING RAN SEVERAL ERRANDS WITH IN A 60 MILE RADIUS SUNDAY MORNING STARTED THE CAR, MOVED IT TO A DIFFERENT LOCATION TO MAKE LOADING LUGGAGE EASIER THEN GOT IN TO GO AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. WAS SUPPLIED WITH A 2AMP HOUR CHARGER AND WAS TOLD THAT IT MIGHT TAKE AN HOURS FOR IT TO BUILD UP ENOUGH JUICE TO START. SAT FOR THIRTY MINUTES, HIT THE KEY AND IT FIRED OFF JUST FINE. DROVE BACK FOR FIVE HOURS STOPPING AND STARTING WITH NO ISSUES, RAN THE CAR BY OREILLY AUTO PARTS AND THEY TEST BATTERY AND SAID IT LOOKED FINE AND THAT IT WAS CHARGING GOOD. BACKED CAR IN GARAGE AND UNLOADED IT AND MONDAY MORNING, IT WAS DEAD, WHILE HOOKING MY CHARGER UP TO IT I NOTICED THAT THE BATTERY WAS WARM. STARTED UP JUST FINE WITH CHARGER ON BUST, NO ISSUES COMING TO WORK, KEEPING MY FINGERS CROSSED WHEN I GO OUT TO LUNCH.

MY 2016 OUTBACK'S HORN STOPPED WORKING. OVER A YEAR AGO, IT STARTED WORKING ONLY WHEN I WAS TURNING THE WHEEL, THEN EVENTUALLY IN JULY 2019, IT STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. IT IS MOSTLY AN ANNOYANCE, BUT I CAN'T USE IT TO WARN OTHERS. I CALLED AN TOLD MY DEALER'S SERVICE DEPT, BUT THEY NEVER GOT BACK TO ME. LATER ON, I TALKED TO THEM, BUT WAS TOLD THEY WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. THEY DO KNOW THE PART ON IT THAT "GOES". I THOUGHT THAT IF I GOT AN EXPENSIVE MILEAGE CHECK UP SERVICE THAT THEY WOULD FEEL BADLY THAT THEY KNOW THEY HAVE A "PART THAT GOES" AND FIX IT, BUT THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO DO ANYTHING. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT SINCE THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT PART "WENT" WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE CAR, THEY HAD A BADLY MADE PART. I HAVE A HISTORY OF DRIVING CARS UNTIL THEY ARE OVER 20 YEARS OLD AND CAN HIT 200 MILES ON A CAR AND I NEVER HAD A HARD JUST STOP WORKING AND DON'T THINK THIS SHOULD HAPPEN. I DO NOT WANT TO PAY SUBARU TO FIX THIS SINCE THEY KNOW THEIR PART GOES WRONG AND IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I AM NOT CONFIDENT THAT A NON-SUBARU MECHANIC WILL KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TO DO, THOUGH SINCE OUTSIDE MECHANICS WON'T BE FAMILIAR WITH THIS ISSUE.

IN 6 MONTHS, I GOT MORE THAN 10 TIMES OF LOW LEVEL ENGINE OIL LIGHT ON. FIRST TIME, IT WAS ON JAN. 2020, IT WAS 3,000 MILES FROM THE LAST OIL CHANGE. SO I CHANGED THE ENGINE OIL WITH NEW OIL. AFTER 2 MONTHS, I GOT LIGHT ON AGAIN. I REFILLED SOME OIL THEN GOT LIGHT ON AFTER ONE MONTH. I REFILLED SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE LIGHT IS ON LATER. THERE IS DROPPED OIL ON THE FLOOR AT ALL. I COULDN'T FIND WHERE THE OIL IS GONE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. AAA WAS CONTACTED AND THE VEHICLE WAS JUMP STARTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED 4 TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO COMPETITION SUBARU OF SMITHTOWN LOCATED AT 601 MIDDLE COUNTRY RD, ST JAMES, NY 11780 WHERE THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER AND THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED OF AN UNKNOWN VOLUNTARY MANUFACTURER RECALL TO REPLACE THE EXHAUST AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER HOWEVER, THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT WAS PROVIDED A LOANER VEHICLE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED A WEEK LATER TO RETURN THE LOANER AND RETRIEVE HIS VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 13,270.

CAR DIES FREQUENTLY, KEEP REPLACING WITH NEW BATTERIES . MANY REPORTED LAWSUITS ONLINE FOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES IN SUBARU OUTBACK 2016. *TR

BATTERY RUNS OUT FOR NO APPARENT REASON, ESPECIALLY WHEN NOT DRIVEN FAR OR FREQUENTLY. FIRST BATTERY REPLACED BY DEALERSHIP BEFORE 2 YEARS, AFTER 3 INCIDENTS. SECOND BATTERY JUST BEGAN THE SAME PROBLEMS, IT IS ONLY 2 YEARS OLD. POSSIBLE THAT PROBLEMS HAVE BEEN MINIMAL BECAUSE PRE-COVID THE CAR WAS MOSTLY DRIVEN ON HIGHWAY, ALLOWING ALTERNATOR TO RE-CHARGE THE BATTERY NEARLY DAILY. BUT IF THE CAR SITS FOR 4 DAYS IT CAN RUN OUT OF BATTERY. THIS CAUSED A MISSED SURGERY APPOINTMENT. *TR

SPONTANEOUS CRACK DEVELOPED DOWN THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHILE DRIVING. NO OBVIOUS REASON SUCH AS IMPACT WITH STONE OR ROCK WAS INVOLVED- LARGE CRACK JUST SUDDENLY APPEARED. HAVE READ MANY REPORTS OF OTHERS HAVING SAME ISSUE, AND SUBARU HAS HAD AT LEAST 3 CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS FILED AGAINST THEM FOR THIS EXACT ISSUE. *TR

AFTER APPROX. TWO WEEKS OF INACTIVITY, BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. REQUIRED A JUMP START. TOOK TO AUTO SHOP; BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR BOTH TESTED AS "GOOD". CAR STARTED NORMALLY DURING DAILY USE FOR SEVERAL DAYS. THEN, AFTER 7 DAYS OF INACTIVITY, BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR STORED ON STREET PARKING. WEATHER TYPICAL FOR SPRING MONTHS IN WASHINGTON STATE (I.E. INTERMITTENT RAIN; TEMPS OF 40-60 DEGREES). ONLINE SEARCH REVEALS SEVERAL SITES WHERE NUMEROUS CUSTOMERS REPORT EXPERIENCING THE SAME FAULTY ELECTRICAL ISSUES. EXAMPLE: HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T58701_DS833514 OR HTTPS://WWW.TORQUENEWS.COM/1084/SUBARU-HIT-NEW-LAWSUIT-OVER-OUTBACK-WAGON-DEAD-BATTERY-ISSUE. *TR

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION WHEN PARKED AND TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. KEY TURNS, BUT NOT TO THE POINT WHERE IT REACHES THE POSITION OF REMOVAL. IT OFTEN TAKES SEVERAL STARTS AND TURN OFF'S TO ACHIEVE REMOVAL OF THE KEY. OFTEN REQUIRES VERY FIRM FORCES OF THE SHIFT LEVER IN THE PARK POSITION TO ACHIEVE RELEASE OF THE KEY. *TR

THIS IS THE 2ND WINDOW THAT HAS HAD TO BE REPLACED IN 2 1/2 YEARS. IT APPEARED TO CRACK SPONTANEOUSLY. *TR

HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN YOU PULL INTO A PARKING SPOT AND PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY OFF AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. SUBARU DEALER DIAGNOSED IT AS 'FAULTY SHIFTER ASSEMBLY'. THIS WOULD BE FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS NO WORK HAS BEEN DONE IN THOSE AREAS OF THE CAR SINCE PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN 2016. CAUSES THE KEY TO BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND UNABLE TO REMOVE WHEN PUT IN PARK. *TR