TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TOP COAT OF CLEAR PAINT IS PEELING OFF OF THE DRIVER SIDE FENDER AND HOOD. THE DEALER HAS BEEN NOTIFIED. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 36,000 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 35,000. UPDATED 03-25-08 *BF UPDATED 03/25/08 *TR
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2003 record →
I PURCHASED A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES BRAND-NEW FROM A DEALERSHIP IN THE SUMMER OF THAT YEAR. SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE, I REALIZED THE TEMPERATURE-CONTROL KNOB WAS STIFF AND WOULD HAVE TO BE FORCED TO SWITCH FROM HEAT TO COOL AND VICE VERSA. I TOOK IT INTO THE DEALERSHIP, WHERE A SERVICE TECHNICIAN OILED IT. THAT HELPED FOR A FEW MONTHS BEFORE IT STARTED STICKING AGAIN. BASICALLY, IT WOULD FEEL AS IT THE KNOB WAS STUCK BETWEEN HOT AND COLD. IT WOULD HAVE TO BE FORCED BEYOND THAT POINT. ONCE FORCED, IT WOULD EITHER NOT STICK IN THE MOST EXTREME TEMPERATURE SETTING (I.E. MAX AC OR HIGHEST HEAT SETTING) OR IT WOULD NOT MOVE MUCH AT ALL. IT WOULD OFTEN FEEL AS IF IT WERE ON THE VERGE OF BREAKING. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP IN 2005, WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS A COMMON COMPLAINT AMONG 2003 LANCER OWNERS. THE SERVICE TECH AT THAT TIME TOLD ME IT WOULD COST $800 TO FIX BUT THAT SO LONG AS THE HEATING AND AC WORKED MOST OF THE TIME, IT WOULD BE SMARTER TO HOLD OFF UNTIL MITSUBISHI ISSUED A RECALL. HE INDICATED THAT A RECALL WAS IMMINENT BECAUSE OF THE NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS HE WAS AWARE OF. THE KNOB ON MY CAR OFFICIALLY BROKE LAST WEEK. THERE IS STILL NO RECALL ON THE PART, BUT A SERVICE TECHNICIAN I SPOKE TO THIS MORNING SAID THAT MITSUBISHI RECENTLY RELEASED A FIX-IT KIT TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM. ACCORDING TO HIM, THAT IS THE GOOD NEWS. THE BAD NEWS IS THAT IT WOULD COST $1,000 TO REPAIR, BECAUSE THE ENTIRE DASH HAS TO BE REMOVED TO MAKE THE REPAIR. TOTAL ESTIMATED REPAIR TIME IS ABOU
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE STEERING COLUMN FELL IN THE CONTACT'S LAP WHEN SHE PLACED THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. PRIOR TO THE FAILURE, SHE NOTICED THAT THE COLUMN FELT LOOSE. SHE WAS ADVISED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. TWO WEEKS LATER, BEFORE SHE ARRIVED AT THE DEALER, THE STEERING COLUMN FELL COMPLETELY OFF. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS CAUSED BY NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR AND IT SEEMED AS IF SOMEONE WAS PULLING ON THE STEERING WHEEL. THE VEHICLE HAS SINCE BEEN REPAIRED. THROUGH ONLINE RESEARCH, SHE FOUND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS REGARDING THE STEERING COLUMN AND SHE FEELS THAT IT IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 104,624 AND THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN. UPDATED 12/12/2007 *BF UPDATED 12/12/07
MY STEERING COLUMN WAS SLIGHTLY LOOSE, BUT A MECHANIC ASSURED ME THERE NO PROBLEM. ABOUT 2 WEEKS LATER, THE ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN FELL INTO MY LAP AS I ATTEMPTED TO INSERT THE KEY INTO THE IGNITION. I WAS ABLE TO PUSH THE COLUMN BACK INTO PLACE AND GET THE CAR ACROSS THE STREET TO A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP WHO SAID THE CAR WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND HAD TOO MANY MILES. I DO NOT BELIEVE THAT THIS IS A WARRANTY ISSUE AND TOLD THE PERSON AT THE DEALERSHIP MY BELIEF. I ALSO ADVISED HIM THAT I HAD HAD CARS THAT WERE TOTALED OUT IN ACCIDENTS AND THE STEERING MECHANISM NEVER FELL OUT. IN ADDITION, I HAD ONE CAR THAT I PUT CLOSE TO 200,000 MILES ON IT, BUT THERE WAS NO PROBLEM WITH THE STEERING WHEEL AND COLUMN FALLING OUT. I CONTACTED MITSUBISHI AND GOT THE SAME RESPONSE REGARDING WEAR AND TEAR AND THE OUT OR WARRANTY SITUATION. *TR
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE ADJUSTER KNOB FOR THE DEFROSTER WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN AND EVENTUALLY FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE TEMP CONTROL CABLE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THERE IS A TSB NHTSA ITEM NUMBER 10006466. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 27,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 29,200.
SENSOR ONE HAD AN INTERNAL FAILURE. MITISUBISHI SERVICE TECH STATED IT WAS DUE TO THE BAD GAS IN NORTH CAROLINA. ACCORDING TO THAT IT WOULD BE MANUFACTURING PROBLEM. BUT WAS TOLD SINCE NO RECALLS, WOULD HAVE TO PAY $400 PLUS TAX TO HAVE IT FIXED. IF NOT FIXED WOULD AFFECT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER AND WOULD CAUSE THE CAR NOT TO RUN. *TR
I BOUGHT THE MITSUBISHI LANCER IN JUNE 2004 WITH 29,361 MILES. NOVEMBER 24 2004 WITH 31,952 MILES WE TOOK THE CAR (WHICH IS MY DAUGHTERS) TO SANBERNARDINO MITSUBISHI FOR A FAN CONTROLLER RECALL # C0409ZXX INVOICE # 152167 AND EXPLAINED IT WAS HARD TO TURN THE HEATER CONTROLL KNOB THE SERVICE ADVISER # 25 GOT IN THE CAR AND TURNED THE KNOB HE SAID YEAH IT IS A LITTLE HARD TO TURN BUT THEY ARE MADE LIKE THAT. I TOLD HIM IT FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO BREAK AND HE SAID IT WONT AND ONCE AGAIN THEY ARE ALL MADE LIKE THAT BUT HE WOULD HAVE IT LOOKED AT. WE WERE TOLD THEY OILED IT AND SENT US ON OUR WAY. MY DAUGHTER TURNED THE KNOB ONLY WHEN SHE HAD TO BECAUSE SHE DIDN'T WANT IT TO BREAK. WE TOOK THE CAR BACK TO SAN BERNARDINO MITSUBISHI ON FEBRUARY 1 2006 WITH 37,320 MILES FOR A REFLASH RECALL # C0505JXX PCM INVOICE # 164087. WE TOLD THE SERVICE ADVISER CARLOS GONZALEZ WE ARE AGAIN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE HEATER CONTROLS KNOB BEING HARD TO TURN.AND HE SAID THEY GET THIS COMPLIANT ALL THE TIME. INVOICE # 164167 HE HAD THE HEATER CONTROL LINK PART # 7801A110 AND # MN185137HC CONTROL REPLACED ON FEBRUARY 3 2006. PER DSM. ON OCTOBER 30 2007 WITH 51,391 MILES I CALLED SAN BERNARDINO MITSUBISHI 909-884-7700 AND SPOKE TO MIKE SMITH IN SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND TOLD HIM OF MY RECURRING PROBLEM WITH HEATER CONTROL KNOB NOT WORKING.HE TOLD ME IT WOULD BE $900 DOLLARS TO FIX THE PROBLEM I WAS GIVEN THE PHONE NUMBER FOR MITSUBISH NORTH AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE 888-648-7820. I CALLED AND SPOKE TO L
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON INDICATOR LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TOOK HER VEHICLE TO BE SERVICED. THE DEALER INFORMED HER THAT THE FUEL TANK WAS LEAKING AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. SHE WAS INFORMED THAT THREE VALVES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE THEY WERE CAUSING AN EMISSIONS LEAK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PLASTIC COVER CRACKED AND THE BOLTS WERE RUSTED AND CORRODED. ONE OF THE BOLTS SNAPPED OFF AND THE ENTIRE GAS TANK NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. SHE PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $1,500, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER THE FAILURE. THE REPAIR COST WOULD BE $1,500. THE PURCHASE DATE WAS UNKNOWN. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 46,000.
2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER. AXLE BEARING FAILED ON PASSENGER SIDE. I REPLACED IT. INNER TIE ROD TORE OUT OF OUTER TIE ROD. I REPLACED THEM. FOR SAFETY REASONS I DECIDED TO REPLACE THE CORRESPOND DRIVERS SIDE PARTS. WHEN I STARTED TO REMOVE THE HUB ASSEMBLY THE DRIVE AXLE FELL FROM THE CAR IN THREE PIECES. NO LOCAL OR NATIONAL CHAIN COULD LOCATE THE AXLE WHICH THEY ALL SAID COST ABOUT $75.00.MITSUBISHI TOLD ME IT WOULD BE $753.00. WHILE I AGREE THAT I HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO REPLACE THE FAILED PART, I ALSO FEEL A FILE SHOULD BE OPENED SINCE THIS REPRESENTS A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR
I TOOK OUR 2003 OZ RALLY LANSER TO THE DEALER FOR A RECALL. I TOLD THEM THE HEATING AND COOLING KNOB WAS HARD TO TURN FROM HOT TO COLD AND FROM COLD TO HOT. I FELT LIKE IT WOULD BREAK IF YOU FORCE IT. THEY PUT OIL ON THE KNOB AND SAID THEY ARE ALL LIKE THAT ON THIS MODEL. IT IS NOW SO HARD TO TURN WE TRY NOT TO BECAUSE IT WILL BREAK. I HAVE READ ALL THE COMPLAINTS ON THIS MODEL AND IT SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM, BUT SOME OF THEM HAVE BROKEN THE KNOB STATING THAT IT COST THEM 500-900 DOLLARS TO GET FIXED. I FELL THAT THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL IF THAT KNOB WAS TO BREAK IN A ICE STORM YOU WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO TURN THE DEFROSTER OR HEATER ON. IN THE MID-WEST THAT COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR
HEATER CONTROL KNOB BROKE, AS IN EVERY MITSUBISHI LANCER, AND NO RECALLS YET. *JB
WHEN I FIRST GOT THE LANCER IN 2003 ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I NOTICED THAT THE KNOB FOR THE AIR AND HEAT WAS REALLY DIFFICULT TO TURN. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS JUST A LITTLE STICKY , AND IF I KEPT TURNING IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT AND BE FINE. I AVOIDED USING IT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE IT NEVER GOT BETTER. A YEAR OR SO LATER I HAD TO TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO DEALER FOR A FACTORY RECALL, AND DURING THAT VISIT I ONCE AGAIN ASKED ABOUT THE KNOB. THE TECHNICIAN LOOKED UNDER THE PANEL AND SAID IT WAS JUST STICKING A BIT AND PUT SOME GREASE ON THE GEARS AND SAID TO JUST WORK IT, TURN IT BACK AND FORTH, AND IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT. IT WAS FINE FOR A COUPLE DAYS BUT WENT BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS SHORTLY THERE AFTER. FINALLY, A FEW WEEKS AGO, WHILE ON MY WAY TO THE AIRPORT TO PICK UP A FRIEND, I WENT TO TURN THE HEAT ON AND THE KNOB JUST SNAPPED OFF. THIS TIME WHEN I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER THEY TOLD ME SINCE THE ROD THAT CONNECTED THE KNOB TO THE GEARS INSIDE WAS WHAT SNAPPED IT WOULD BE ABOUT $500-$600 TO REPAIR. HE EVEN ASKED WHY I NEVER HAD IT LOOKED AT AND FIXED BEFORE IT SNAPPED OFF. I TOLD HIM I DID NUMEROUS TIMES AND WAS BLOWN OFF EACH TIME. BUT NOW THAT IT WAS AN ACTUAL PROBLEM . THEY WERE WILLING TO FIX IT FOR A FEE OF COURSE. UPON DOING SOME RESEARCH I REALIZED THAT OTHER PEOPLE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THEIR LANCERS, AND HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS TRYING TO GET IT FIXED. THIS WAS THE CAUSE FOR COMPLAINT. THE DEALER WAS NOT WILLING TO FIX IT. WHEN I MENTIONED
HEATER SELECTOR FROM HOT TO COLD DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY. AFTER A SHORT TIME, DID NOT WORK AT ALL; BENT CABLE. PURCHASED NEW CABLE, BENT NEW CABLE. FOUND PROBLEM TO BE NOT IN KNOB, BUT IN THE ACTUAL LEVER/GEAR THE CABLE TURNS. ESTIMATE IT NEEDS A NEW HEATER CORE (BEST GUESS FROM SERVICE SHOP). *JB
WHEN I FIRST GOT THE LANCER IN 2003 ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I NOTICED WAS THAT THE KNOB FOR THE AIR AND HEAT WAS REALLY DIFFICULT TO TURN. I TOOK IT INTO THE DEALER AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS "JUST A LITTLE STICKY" AND IF I KEPT TURNING IT, IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT AND BE FINE. I AVOIDED USING IT AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE IT NEVER GOT BETTER. A YEAR OR SO LATER I HAD TO TAKE MY VEHICLE IN FOR A FACTORY RECALL AND DURING THAT VISIT I ONCE AGAIN ASKED ABOUT THE KNOB. THE TECH LOOKED UNDER THE PANEL AND SAID IT WAS JUST STICKING A BIT AND PUT SOME GREASE ON THE GEARS AND SAID TO JUST WORK IT, TURNING IT BACK AND FORTH, AND IT WOULD WORK ITSELF OUT. IT WAS FINE FOR A COUPLE DAYS BUT WENT BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS SHORTLY THERE AFTER. FINALLY, A FEW WEEKS AGO, WHILE ON MY WAY TO THE AIRPORT TO PICK UP A FRIEND, I WENT TO TURN THE HEAT ON AND THE KNOB JUST SNAPPED OFF. THIS TIME WHEN I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER THEY TOLD ME SINCE THE ROD THAT CONNECTS THE KNOB TO THE GEARS INSIDE WAS WHAT SNAPPED IT WOULD BE ABOUT $500-$600 TO REPAIR. HE EVEN ASKED WHY I NEVER HAD IT LOOKED AT AND FIXED BEFORE IT SNAPPED OFF. I TOLD HIM I DID NUMEROUS TIMES AND WAS BLOWN OFF EACH TIME. BUT NOW THAT IT IS AN ACTUAL PROBLEM THEY ARE WILLING TO FIX IT, FOR A FEE OF COURSE. UPON DOING SOME RESEARCH I REALIZED THAT OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THEIR LANCERS AND HAVE HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS TRYING TO GET IT FIXED. THIS IS CAUSE FOR COMPLAINT, THE DEALER WAS NOT WILLING TO FIX IT WHEN I MENTIONED THE
(1) THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL ON MY 2003 LANCER ES WAS ALWAYS A BIT HARD TO MOVE. 2) NOW THE SWITCH HAS GOTTEN SO HARD TO CONTROL THAT IT FEELS ALMOST AS IF IT DOES NOT WORK WHEN YOU FINALLY PLACE IT IN THE RIGHT POSITION. 3) I TOOK IT INTO MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP MAYWOOD MITSUBISHI, NJ WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED AND THEY SAID IT IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND WANTED TO CHARGE ME 700 DOLLARS TO FIX IT. THIS IS A DEFECT IN THE VEHICLE THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN MADE A RECALL. I KNOW FOR A FACT THE LANCER FROM 02-04 HAS HAD THIS SAME ISSUE. MITSUBISHI DOES NOT RESUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR FAULTY SWITCHES. THIS GOES TO SHOW HOW MUCH THEY "BACK" THEIR PROBLEMS.*AK
WHEN I BOUGHT THE LANCER IN 2003 THE FIRST THING I NOTICED WAS THE KNOB FOR THE AIR AND HEAT WAS REALLY HARD TO TURN. MY DAD AND I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER AND EXPLAINED IT WAS HARD TO TURN. THE SALESMAN GOT IN THE CAR AND TURNED THE KNOB HE SAID YEAH IT IS A LITTLE HARD TO TURN BUT THEY ARE MADE LIKE THAT. I TOLD HIM IT FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO BREAK AND HE SAID IT WONT AND ONCE AGAIN THEY ARE ALL MADE LIKE THAT. I ONLY TURNED THE KNOB ONLY WHEN I HAD TO BECAUSE I DIDN'T WANT IT TO BREAK. I TOOK IT BACK IN AND THE DEALER SAID THEY GET THIS COMPLIANT ALL THE TIME AND IT WOULD BE $800 DOLLARS TO FIX THE PROBLEM. I TOLD HIM IF THEY GET A LOT OF COMPLAINTS MAYBE THERE IS A DEFECT. IN 2006 I WAS ON MY WAY HOME FROM A TRIP AND I TURNED THE KNOB FROM AIR TO HEAT AND IT BROKE OFF. WHEN I GOT HOME THE NEXT DAY I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY TOLD ME I SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT THE CAR IN FOR A CHECK I EXPLAINED THAT I DID AND EVERY TIME THEY BLEW IT OFF. HE SAID WELL TO FIX IT, AND IT WILL COST $800-$900 DOLLARS. IS THIS CAUSE FOR COMPLAINT. *AK
HEATER KNOB DOES NOT TURN TO HOT AND NO HEAT.... COLD WEATHER IN CANADA
AFTER PURCHASING MY VEHICLE I NOTICED TWO THINGS, ONE THAT IS TROUBLESOME AND THE OTHER A MAJOR INCONVENIENCE. ONE DAY AFTER STEPPING OUT OF MY VEHICLE WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS RUNNING WITH THE A/C ON I HEARD A LOUD RATTLING SOUND EVERY TIME THE A/C KICKED ON. I TOOK IT INTO A DEALERSHIP WHILE I WAS HAVING THEM CHECK MY TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB (THE OTHER PROBLEM) AND TOLD THEM ABOUT IT. THEY JUST PUT GREASE ON THE KNOB AND TOLD ME THAT THE A/C IS SUPPOSED TO SOUND LIKE THAT. WELL, JUST THIS LAST FALL MY A/C COMPRESSOR (I THINK IT IS THE COMPRESSOR) BLEW OUT AND STARTED SMOKING. I THOUGHT THAT THE FREON WAS EMPTY BUT IT IS NOT. IS THIS LEGITIMATE FOR A COMPLAINT? *JB
TEMPERATURE CONTROL KNOB BROKE COMPLETELY OFF. AT FIRST IT WAS HARD TO TURN AND WHEN IT WAS SWITCHED OVER TO HEAT FOR WINTER, IT BROKE OFF. WENT TO MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP; WAS TOLD THEY GET THAT AT LEAST 3 TIMES A WEEK THEN WE WERE QUOTED AROUND $900 TO FIX(PARTS PLUS LABOR). SOUND TO ME IF THEY GET 3 A WEEK THEN MAYBE THEY SHOULDN'T BE CHARGING ANYBODY AND FIXING IT SEEING AS IT IS DEFECTIVE. *JB
JACK WAS ON LEVEL SURFACE JACKED UP THE CAR TO REPLACE A FLAT AFTER I BEGAN TO PUT THE SPARE ON THE JACK BENT IN HALF CAUSING THE WHOLE FRONT OF THE CAR TO LAND INTO THE GROUND. *NM
AC/HEATER KNOB IS DEFECTIVE, CAN'T CHANGE BETWEEN A/C AND HEAT TO EFFECTIVELY USE DEFROSTER. *NM
MY HEATER KNOB IS BROKE. IT HAS BEEN VERY HARD TO TURN SINCE I BOUGHT THIS CAR. IT WAS USED BUT THIS IS MY SECOND CAR OF THE SAME TYPE. IT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM IN THE CAR BEFORE THIS ONE AND THERE WAS ONLY A 1 YEAR DIFFERENCE IN THEM. I AM NOT THE ONLY PERSON WITH THIS PROBLEM. MOST OF THE PEOPLE I KNOW ON THE INTERNET FORUM HAS THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR. *JB
2003 LANCER OVERHEATED AND RAN ROUGH CAUSING LOSS OF COOLANT. MECHANIC DETERMINED THERE WAS A BLOWN HEAD GASKET. *TS THE CONSUMER THOUGHT THE PROBLEM MAY HAVE BEEN RELATED TO THE RECALL THAT WAS PERFORMED ON THE VEHICLE PREVIOUSLY. *JB
I TURNED THE HOT/COLD DIAL TO HOT ONE WINTER MORNING AND THE CABLE SNAPPED THERE FOR THE HEAT DID NOT WORK ANYMORE. I TOOK IT IN FOR REPAIRS, THEY REPLACED THE CABLE $300 LATER IT SNAPPED AGAIN 2 MONTHS LATER. NO THE MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP IS TELLING ME THAT ITS THE HEATER BOX THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND ITS GOING TO COST ME $2000 TO HAVE IT REPLACE. SO NOW ITS NOVEMBER 15 AND I DON'T HAVE ANY HEAT! *NM
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE HEATING AND COOLING CONTROL KNOB FRACTURED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE SERVICE DEALER, WHO DETERMINED THAT THE HEATING AND COOLING CONTROL KNOB WAS REDESIGNED AND THAT THERE WERE NONE OF THE ORIGINAL KNOBS IN STOCK.*AK
WHEN I TURN ON THE HEAT IN MY CAR THE ENTIRE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE INTERIOR OF MY CAR FLOODS.. NOT A LITTLE LEAK, ACTUAL FLOODS ?? THE A/C FAN NO LONGER TURN ON UNLESS YOU PUT IT ON THE MAX. SETTING MY CAR ONLY HAS 44K MILES ON IT AND THIS SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING. *JB
OUR 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER ES HAS ONLY 15,520 MILES ON IT AND WE'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE FRONT BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. WE TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND I ASKED IF THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE BRAKES ON THIS MODEL OF MITSUBISHI, EXPLAINING THAT MY WIFE DRIVES THIS CAR AND IT IS PARKED IN A COVERED GARAGE, AS EVIDENCED BY THE EXCELLENT CONDITION AND LOW MILEAGE. I WAS TOLD THIS SEEMS TO BE LOW MILEAGE FOR THE FRONT BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS TO REQUIRE REPLACEMENT, BUT THAT HAPPENS. *NM
I BOUGHT MY 2003 LANCER ES WHEN IT HAD 16,000 MILES ON IT, BY ABOUT 30,000 MILES I NOTICED THAT THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SEEMED TO BE SLIPPING, SOMETIMES WHEN DRIVING AND I WOULD LET UP ON ACCELERATOR TO SLOW AND THEN WOULD DEPRESS ACCELERATOR AGAIN THE CAR WOULD ACT LIKE IT WAS IN NEUTRAL, CAR DID NOT ACCELERATE, THIS HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY AND AT SLOW SPEEDS, 30 MILES AN HOUR OR SLOWER. ON 8-25-05 I TOOK THE CAR IN TO THE DEALERSHIP AT NORTHTOWNE MITSUBISHI AND REPORTED THIS PROBLEM AND THAT THE RIGHT PASSENGER BALL JOINT HAD FAILED INSPECTION AT 34000 MILES. I ASKED THE DEALER TO LOOK AT TRANSMISSION AT THE SAME TIME, I WAS TOLD THEY WOULD CHECK IT OUT, I WAS TOLD THAT THIS TYPE OF TRANSMISSION DEVELOPED A MEMORY AND IF ONE PERSON DROVE IT HARDER THAT ANOTHER THIS COULD HAPPEN, SOUNDED LIKE A BUNCH OF HOOEY TO ME, BUT I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT CARS. I TOOK THE CAR BACK IN ON DEC. 30, 2005 FOR A RECALL ON CAR,SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE EMISSIONS AND AGAIN COMPLAINED ABOUT TRANSMISSION, WAS TOLD AGAIN, NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT. NOW MY CAR IS MAKING A WHINING NOISE, TOOK THE CAR TO A GOODYEAR SERVICE CENTER AND WAS TOLD MY TRANSMISSION WAS THE PROBLEM AND NEEDS REPAIR, MY CAR HAS APPROX 43000 MILES ON IT. THE DEALER NEVER PUT ON MY SERVICE TICKETS TO LOOK AT TRANSMISSION, JUST TO CHECK OVER VEHICLE. I FEEL THEY WERE TRYING TO PUT ME OFF TILL MY CAR WENT OUT OF WARRANTY. MY POWERTRAIN IS NOW STILL UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE REST IS NOT. I AM VERY UPSET. *NM
CAR HAD MANUAL TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS ROUGHLY AT 30K, TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS AGAIN, NEEDED TO BE REPLACED, NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. CAR IS RUSTING ON FRAME, ON EXTERIOR, CARPET INSIDE IS PAPER THIN, ROAD SALT HAD EATEN THROUGH IT - ALREADY HAVE VISIBLE RUST ON WHEEL WELL. THIS CAR IS PATHETIC, WOULDN'T GIVE THIS MAKE TO MY WORSE ENEMY. I WILL BE MAKING ANOTHER PHONE CALL TO MITSUBISHI MOTORS. DEFINITELY A LEMON IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD. *NM
MY 2003 MITSUBISIHI LANCER OZ IS EXPERIENCING SOME TYPE OF PROBLEM WITH THE REAR SUSPENSION. WE'VE HAD THE CAR FOR 3 YEARS AND IT HAS 45,000 MILES, AND WE'VE DRIVEN IN VERY GENTLY. MOST OF THE 45K ARE HIGHWAY MILES FROM COMMUTING TO WORK. THERE IS A HORRIBLE SQUEAKING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THERE IS NO REASON THIS VEHICLE SHOULD HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH THE REAR SUSPENSION, YET IT DOES, AND WE'RE NO LONGER COVERED BY THE WARRANTY SO WE HAVE TO PAY $75 TO EVEN GET IT LOOKED AT. *JB
EVER SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR 2 YEARS AGO IT HAS SPUTTERED AND JERKED BUT AT FIRST NOT THAT BAD. THE LAST YEAR HAS BEEN THE WORST. IT STAYS REVVED UP AND THEN IT WILL KICK INTO GEAR. FINALLY CHRISTMAS EVE IT BROKE DOWN. THE MECHANIC TOLD ME IT IS A HAIR LINE CRACK ABOUT 2 INCHES LONG ON THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING. SURE ENOUGH THERE IS AND I HAVE A DEAD CAR. *JB
SLAVE CYLINDER SUDDENLY WENT OUT. *NM
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SLIPS/SKIPS WHILE SPEEDING UP AROUND TWENTY FIVE MILES PER HOUR, AND THIS OCCURS WHEN BREAKING QUICKLY. WHEN BREAKING QUICKLY, CAR WILL THEN JUMP FORWARD WHEN THE TRANSMISSION CATCHES. I BELIEVE THIS HAS ALWAYS SLIGHTLY BEEN THERE, BUT I BELIEVE MY SLOW DRIVING HAS MASKED THE ISSUE. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGED AND THEN THE DEALER DID TWO RECALL CHANGES, AND AFTER THE SKIPPING ISSUES WAS VERY MUCH THERE. AFTER READING THE OTHER COMPLAINTS, I AM SURE THIS IS THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG. PRD. *NM
A FEW WEEKS AGO MY VEHICLE BECOME VERY TOUGH TO SHIFT OUT OF PARK WHEN PARKED ON ANY INCLINE OR, UNEVEN SURFACE. ONCE THE GEAR SELECTOR WOULDN'T EVEN MOVE AND THREE PEOPLE HAD TO STAND BEHIND THE CAR AND PUSH IT FORWARD TO ALLOW ME TO SHIFT OUT OF PARK. I'VE TAKEN IT TO CITY MITSUBISHI IN JACKSONVILLE FL. AND THEY HAVE INFORMED ME THAT THE BEST THING TO DO IS STOP, PUT IT IN NEUTRAL, SET THE E-BRAKE, THEN PUT IT IN PARK. I FEEL THIS IS UN-NECESSARY CONSIDERING IT ONLY HAS 25,000 MILES, I'M THE ORIGINAL OWNER, IT'S UNDER FACTORY WARRANTY, AND IT WASN'T DOING THIS 1000 MILES AGO. I HAVE LEFT IT THERE AND WILL BE CONTACTING MITSUBISHI MOTORS ON MONDAY TO SEE WHAT MY NEXT COURSE OF ACTION IS. *NM
THE VEHICLE STICKS IN THIRD GEAR. THE CONSUMER HAS LOCATED SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THE INTERNET. *AK
THE TRANSMISSION IS SKIPPING. THE CAR WOULD DRIVE BY ITSELF WITHOUT ME ACCELERATING, THE RPMS WOULD BE AT 3-4 X1000 RPMS WHILE THE CAR IS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT OR SOMETHING ELSE WORSE. *AK
WAS IN A 45 MPH REAR END COLLISION. AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY, BACK SEAT PASSENGER SEAT BELT AND TETHER CLIP FAILED. SONS CAR SEAT HIT THE BACK OF PASSENGER SEAT, LUCKILY I HAD ALREADY DROPPED IN OFF AT DAY CARE.*AK
THE DRIVER NOTICED THAT THE CLUTCH WILL NOT DISENGAGE. *AK
LOSS OF CLUTCH OPERATION WHILE AT RED STOP LIGHT, CLUTCH PEDAL DEPRESSED, CAR IN FIRST GEAR, FOOT SLIGHTLY ON BRAKE. CLUTCH PEDAL STARTED FEELING SOFT, THEN WITHOUT CLUTCH PEDAL MOVEMENT, CLUTCH ENGAGED. LATER THAT DAY, I FIND "OIL" UNDER MY CAR. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED PROBLEM, AND WAS ADVISED THAT SLAVE CYLINDER WAS LEAKING.
CAR WAS DRIVING FINE. THEN STARTED ACTING FUNNY SHIFTING. KEPT GETTING WORSE SO TOOK IT TO THE DEALER. THE CAR HAD 37000 MILES ON IT AND THE WARRENTY RAN OUT AT 35000. ENDED UP BEING THE SLAVE CYLINDER. THE DEALER WANTED $1200. TOOK IT TO A LOCAL SHOP BUT STILL COST $38.10. *AK
MITSUBISHI LANCER 2003, DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION AND BRAKES. *BF THE CONSUMER STATED THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPED AT EVERY SPEED AND NO ONE WOULD ADMIT THERE WAS A PROBLEM. THE BRAKES WOULD FADE AND VIBRATE MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO STOP. *JB
EVER SINCE I BOUGHT MY CAR I'VE BEEN HAVING TROUBLE WITH IT, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON, AT FIRST THE DEALERSHIP I BOUGHT IT FROM, ROCKLAND MITSUBISHI IN NY, SAID IT WAS JUST A SENSOR IN MY GAS TANK, BUT AFTER FIXING IT, IT KEPT COMING BACK ON. FINALLY THEY TOLD ME IT WAS MY FAULT, I HAD TO TURN MY CAR OFF COMPLETELY BEFORE PUMPING MY GAS, CLOSE MY TANK TIGHTLY, THEN START MY CAR BACK UP. THIS BACK AND FORTH CONTINUED UNTIL MY NORMAL WARRANTY RAN OUT. AT 70K MILES, MY TRANSMISSION STARTED SKIPPING, AND MY ENGINE BEGAN PUTTERING. FINALLY TOOK IT TO MITSUBISHI AGAIN, THEY SAID THEY TOOK CARE OF IT. AT 80K NOW, MY TRANSMISSION AS COMPLETELY DIED, I TOOK IT TO AAMCO AND THEY SAY I NEED A COMPLETELY NEW TRANSMISSION. *JB
UPON DRIVING MY 2003 LANCER, I'VE NOTICED THAT PERIODICALLY THE TRANSMISSION WILL SKIP AND THE CAR WILL DO A JERK. IT ALARMED ME BECAUSE AT THAT TIME THE CAR HAD ONLY ABOUT 11,000 MILES ON IT. I AM CONCERNED BECAUSE I HAVEN'T EVEN HAD THE CAR A YEAR, AND I THOUGHT I WAS GETTING A QUALITY VEHICLE. AS I LOOKED ON THE COMPLAINT BOARD I REALIZED IM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS ISSUE. IS MITSUBISHI AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM? AND IF SO, WHAT ARE THEY GOING TO DO ABOUT ALL OF THESE CARS? IF ANYONE IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUES PLEASE CONTACT DANIELLE@847)619-5879. *JB
I PURCHASED A 2003 MITSUBISHI LANCER LS, FRM THE MMSA CO. USED PARKING LOT, WITH ONLY A 100 MILES. CAR SEEMED TO RUN FINE, AND THEN IT STARTED TO RANDOMLY REVV AND THEM STALL. IT WASNT THAT BAD AT FIRST, BUT 06/04 IT BECAME A PROBLEM. ID STALL ABOUT 8-12 X A DAY (AVG.), ID TAKEN IT TO THE MITSU DEALERS WHO ALL SAID: THEY FIXED IT, COULDNT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM, OR THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG. WHILE ON THE FREEWAY, I STARTED TO BRAKE AND THEN REALIZED THAT I HAD NO POWER TO MY CAR- IT HAD STALLED IN MOTION. ALL LIGHTS WERE ON ON DASHBOARD AND THE LENGHT BETWEEN ME AND THE OTHER CAR WAS INEVITABLE. EVEN WHEN I HAD TAKEN IT TO A DEALER ONLY 4 DAYS BEFORE WHO SAID THEY FIXED IT. I ENDED UP TOTALLY MY CAR AND RECIEVED MANY INJURIES, AND MITSUBISHI DIDNT EVEN HELP ME. AT THE TIME OF MY CRASH I HAD JUST HIT 10000 MILES- I SHOULD NOT HAVE HAD A PROBLEM LIKE THIS WITH A BRAND NEW (BASICALLY) CAR.*AK
THE CONSUMER EXPERIENCED SUDDEN ACCELERATION . THE CONSUMER STATED THAT WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED. THE CONSUMER CONTACTED THE MANUFACTURER, WHO ALSO WAS AT A LOSS FOR AN EXPLANATION AS TO WHY THIS DEFECT OCCURRED. *AK THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WOULD STICK, THE HEATER CONTROLS WOULD BIND UP WHEN TURNED ON AND AT TIMES THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WOULD GO TO THE FLOOR. *SC *JB
WHEN DRIVING MY VEHICLE THE TRANSMISSION DOES NOT SHIFT GEARS PROPERLY. NORMAL OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE LEADS TO SLIPPING TRANSITIONS FROM GEAR TO GEAR MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO MAINTAIN/REACH/SUSTAIN SPEED. THIS OCCURS IN BOTH HIGHWAY AND CITY ENVIRONMENTS. I HAVE HAD THE CAR SERVICED ACCORDING TO MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATIONS OF EVERY 3000 MILES. I HAVE ABOUT 40000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE AT THIS POINT. IT STARTED DOING THIS AT ABOUT 6000 MILES. I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES. WHEN TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY INFORMED ME NOTHING WAS WRONG. I HAVE CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID AS WELL AS ALL FILTERS. I WAS TOLD THIS IS 'NORMAL' FOR THE CAR. I DO NOT THINK HOWEVER THAT THIS IS A TYPICAL BEHAVIOR FOR NEW VEHICLES.*AK
LANCER OZ RALLY EDITION: WITHIN 6 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP, NOTICED PROBLEMS WITH CRUISE CONTROL, OCCURING AT ANY SPEED IN WHICH CRUISE CONTROL FUNCTION IS USED: WHEN VEHICLE WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AND ACCELERATING AT SET SPEED, CAR WOULD ACCELERATE EXCESSIVELY FOR VERY MINIMAL INCLINES. WHEN USING THE COAST FUNCTION, VEHICLE WOULD SLOW DOWN UNTIL YOU LET OFF THE SWITCH, AND THEN SPEED WOULD RAPIDLY INCREASE BEYOND PREVIOUS POSITION, BEFORE FINALLY SETTLING BACK TO THE REDUCED SPEED CHOSEN. WHEN USING THE ACCELERATE OPTION, VEHICLE WOULD SPEED UP WHEN SWITCH USED AND WOULD CONTINUE FAST ACCELERATION AFTER RELEASE OF SWITCH. WOULD INCREASE ABOUT 2-3 MILES PER HOUR PAST RELEASE OF THE SWITCH AND THEN FINALLY SETTLE BACK TO THE FASTER SPEED CHOSEN. NOTIFIED LOCAL DEALERSHIP OF THIS PROBLEM. THEY TOLD ME THEY TEST DROVE THE CAR AND COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM, THEREFORE, IT WAS NOT AN ISSUE. VEHICLE CONTINUES TO DO THIS AND WHEN TRYING TO COAST WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL I HAVE HAD TO APPLY BREAKS RAPIDLY TO AVOID CAR FROM SPEEDING TO FASTLY, POSSIBLY HITTING SLOW MOVING VEHICLES INFRONT OF ME. ALSO, LOCAL DEALERSHIP DID NOT PROVIDE ME WITH A RECIEPT SHOWING THAT THE VEHICLE WAS IN FOR SAID PROBLEM, OR THAT ANY THING HAD BEEN DONE TO CHECK FOR IT....I ONLY HAD THE WORD OF THE SERVICE WRITER.
WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH CONSUMER'S VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A REAR END COLLISION, UPON IMPACT, FRONT AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. *AK
WHILE DRIVING AT 60 MPH VEHICLE PULLED TO THE RIGHT. VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO INSPECTED IT SEVERAL TIMES BUT COULD NOT REPRODUCE OR CORRECT THE PROBLEM. *AK *NM
DURING A 30 MPH FRONTAL COLLISION FRONT AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. DEALERSHIP WAS NOTIFIED, BUT DID NOT RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THE TWO OCCUPANT SUFFERED FROM CHEST, BACK AND SHOULDER INJURIES. *NM
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NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
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