2010 Mazda Mazda6 complaints

FOR SOME REASON THE BRAKE ROTOR ON THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL WARPS VERY QUICKLY AFTER DRIVING UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS. THE ROTOR THAT WARPS MAKES THE STEERING WHEEL SHAKE VIOLENTLY WHEN BRAKING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS AND IS DIFFICULT TO CONTROL STEERING. ALSO WHEN BRAKING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS THE SHAKING DECREASES IF THE BRAKE PEDAL IS STOMPED ON HARD BUT THIS RESULTS IN "BRAKE CHECKING" THE VEHICLE THAT IS FOLLOWING BEHIND THE CAR. TO TRY TO CORRECT THE ISSUE THE FRONT ROTORS WERE MACHINED SEVERAL TIMES, REPLACED, MACHINED AGAIN BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. AT LOWER SPEEDS THE CAR LURCHES FORWARD AND BACK FORWARD AND BACK AS THE BRAKE CATCHES AND RELEASES THE WARPED ROTOR.

WHEN MANEUVERING TO OR FROM PARKING WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED AND PUTS ANY PRESSURE ON THE STEERING COMPONENTS THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE CAR MAKES A VERY LOUD CLUNKING AND POPPING AND MAKES BOTH STEERING AND MOVING DIFFICULT. IT HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE OVER THE LAST 2 MONTHS SO I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND OUT ABOUT THE POSSIBLE CORROSION ISSUE OF THE FRONT RIGHT SUBFRAME AND RECALL "INSPECTION". I WILL CALL MY LOCAL DEALER AND SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT AS IT SEEMS THIS CAR IS UNDER AN OPEN RECALL AND WAS NEVER LOOKED AT. I JUST BOUGHT IT AS A USED CAR IN MID OCTOBER AND MOSTLY DRIVE MY TRUCK ALL WINTER SO IT TOOK AWHILE FOR THIS TO SURFACE.

I HAVE THE OPEN AND DANGEROUS RECALL ( # 2818I ) STILL PENDING AT THIS TIME. IT WAS HARD ENOUGH JUST TO GET THE DEALERSHIP, IN ORDER TO INSPECT THE CAR FOR CORROSION IN THE CONCERNING AREAS. I DON'T FEEL THAT THE CAR IS SAFE TO DRIVE AT THIS TIME AND PREFER THAT NO ONE RIDES WITH ME WHEN DRIVING IT, JUST FOR THE SAFETY OF OTHERS. I'M VERY CONCERNED THAT THIS FIX WILL NOT COME SOON ENOUGH AND THE PROBLEM KEEP MESSING UP MY CARS ALIGNMENT. CAUSING ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS DRIVING IT, ESPECIALLY AT HIGH SPEEDS. THAT'S WHEN A WHEEL WOBBLE STARTS TO HAPPEN IN THE AFFECTED AREAS OF THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR. PLEASE HELP!

LETTER FROM CONSUMER RE: FAIR AND EQUITABLE REIMBURSEMENT CUSTOMER TREATMENT ON 2010 MAZDA 6 RECALL REPAIR (DEFECT) NOT TOTALLY PAID FOR BY MAZDA WARRANTY DEPARTMENT. *AS *TR

CAR SYSTEM ALARM GOES OFF WITHOUT NOTICE. IT WILL WORK FINE FOR DAYS THEN, THE ALARM WILL START TO GO OFF CONSTANTLY. WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT, THE INTERIOR CAR LIGHTS COME ON LIKE A DOOR IS OPEN. NO INDICATOR ON CONTROL PANEL IF DOOR IS OPEN. THEN TURNS OFF LIGHTS INSIDE CAR. IT SCARES YOU AS YOU THINK A DOOR CAME OPEN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. BROWN'S FAIRFAX MAZDA (10570 FAIRFAX BOULEVARD, FAIRFAX, VA 22030, (703) 385-8170) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

HEADLIGHT ON BOTH SIDES GO OUT OFTEN. AFTER HAVING THIS ISSUE FAR TOO MANY TIMES, I LOOKED ONLINE HOPING TO FIND A SOLUTION AND DISCOVERED MULTIPLE MAZDA OWNERS ARE HAVING SAME PROBLEM. ITS A MALFUNCTION IN THE MAZDA THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED BY MAZDA. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AT NIGHT TO HAVE HAPPENING WAY TO OFTEN. AS FOR THE AIR BAG- IVE HAD MY MAZDA TO A MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR THE RECALLS AND THE AIR BAG WAS KNE OF THEM. SINCE THEN, TWICE NOW, THE 'AIRBAG/FRONT SEAT BELT PRETENSIONER SYSTEM MALFUNCTION' LIGHT IS FLASHING WHILE DRIVING. I LOOKED IT UP, AND BY THE SOUNDS OF IT, MY AIRBAG IS MALFUNCTIONING?! ANOTHER DANGEROUS SITUATION ON THE MAZDA 6.

MAZDA INCOMPLETE RECALL 28181; NHTSA RECALL 18V-631; I HAD MY VEHICLE INSPECTED AS REQUIRED AND WAS TOLD DUE TO RUST/CORROSION/PERFORATIONS THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. INFORMED NO PARTS AVAILABLE AND MAZDA HAS GIVEN NO INFO ON WHEN PARTS MAY BE AVAILABLE; DEALERS HAVE NO INFO AT ALL ON TIMING FOR REPAIRS; CANNOT GET THRU TO MAZDA FOR MORE INFO AND MAZDA DOES NOT EVEN LIST THIS ON THEIR SITE AS A RECALL; THIS IS A DANGEROUS CONDITION AND AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 18V717000 (AIR BAGS) AND 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE CONTACT CALLED SENTRY WEST MAZDA AT 508-281-8171 (LOCATED AT 940 BOSTON TURNPIKE, SHREWSBURY, MA 01545) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH, A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD AND THE STEERING LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE IT WAS STATED THAT THE RECALL REPAIRS NEEDED TO BE PERFORMED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V717000 (AIR BAGS) AND VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE).

WHEN I ENTER CAR AND ATTACH SEAT BELT, AT SOME POINT DURING STARTING OUT OR IN THE PROCESS OF GOING DOWN THE ROAD, THE SEAT WILL START LEANING BACKWARDS DUE TO THE SEATBELT BEING HOOKED AROUND THE LEVER TO TILT THE SEAT BACK. MY FEET NO LONGER REACH THE GAS OR BREAK PEDAL WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH THAT IT HAS NOT BEEN THE CAUSE OF AN ACCIDENT SO FAR. IT HAPPENS AT ANY TIME AFTER STARTING OUT OR ANYTIME DURING DRIVING OR IN MOTION. SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING MORE OFTEN THE LONGER I HAVE HAD IT.

RIGHT FRONT HEADLAMP REPEATEDLY GOES OUT AND IT'S NEITHER THE BULB NOR THE FUSE! SUBSEQUENTLY STUCK DRIVING HOME WITH HIGH BEAMS (TO SEE WELL ENOUGH TO NAVIGATE SAFELY) BUT FEARFUL THE GLARE CREATES A SAFETY ISSUE FOR OPPOSING TRAFFIC - A TWOFER! NOTE; BANGING ON THE SIDE OF HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY WITH CLOSED FIST 'SOMETIMES' HAS IT COME BACK TO LIFE. LOOKED ONLINE AND - SURPRISE, SURPRISE - THERE ARE LOTS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME THING! SADLY, I'M AFRAID SOMEONE'S GOING TO GET KILLED AND I JUST HOPE NOT TO BE INVOLVED. PLEASE READ WHAT OTHERS SAY ABOUT THIS HERE; HTTP://WWW.CARPROBLEMZOO.COM/MAZDA/MAZDA6/HEADLIGHTS-PROBLEMS.PHP . . . AND MANY MORE COMPLAINTS ON YOUTUBE

MY MAZDA WAS RECALLED DUE TO AIR BAG INFLATOR THAT COULD EXPLODE RESULTING IN SHARP METAL FRAGMENTS STRIKING THE PASSENGER OR OTHER VEHICLE OCCUPANTS. WHEN I CALLED MY MAZDA DEALER TO GET IT IN TO BE FIXED I WAS TOLD THE PARTS ARE ON BACK ORDER AT MAZDA AND THEY COULD NOT GIVE ME AN ETA ON WHEN THEY WOULD GET PARTS IN. HOW CAN MAZDA ALLOW IT'S CUSTOMERS TO CONTINUE DRIVING THEIR CAR WITH NO RECOURSE TO GIVE US A RENTAL CAR IN THE MEANTIME IF THEY CAN'T FIX AN ISSUE THAT I WOULD CONSIDER EXTREMELY SERIOUS AND NEEDING TO BE FIXED IMMEDIATELY? MY WIFE IS PREGNANT AND WE HAVE A TODDLER WHO RIDES IN A CARSEAT IN THE BACKSEAT AND WE NOW FEEL UNSAFE TO DRIVE OUR CAR. I WOULD EXPECT THIS MATTER TO BE TAKEN MUCH MORE SERIOUSLY THAN IT IS. I'M VERY DISAPPOINTED IN MAZDA AND THE WAY THIS RECALL IS BEING HANDLED.

WHILE APPLYING THE BRAKES AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH, THERE WAS SHARP JOLT, AND THE STEERING WHEEL JERKED ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. THE LOW-TRACTION INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR WAS NOT ABLE TO BE SAFELY STEERED. UPON VISUAL INSPECTION, THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE WAS TURNED OUTWARD, WHILE THE FRONT LEFT REMAINED STRAIGHT. A MECHANIC CONFIRMED THAT THE ISSUE WAS CAUSED BY A FULLY CORRODED SUB-FRAME WHICH HAD CRACKED IN HALF.

THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND THE SUB FRAME HAS COMPLETELY RUSTED OUT, DEEMING THE CAR UNFIT TO DRIVE. THIS WAS ONLY CAUGHT AS I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR ESTIMATE ON BRAKES. I HAVE 2 YOUNG CHILDREN WHO RIDE IN THIS CAR DAILY, SO LUCKILY NO ACCIDENT. I'VE NOTICED SEVERAL COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS ON THE 2009 AND 2010 MODELS. ALTHOUGH I HAVEN'T BEEN IN ACCIDENT (YET), I'M NOW FORCED TO PAY $2000 IN REPAIRS, OR JUST REPLACE THE VEHICLE.

MY SON WAS DRIVING THE CAR APPROXIMATELY 40MPH ON A STATE ROUTE IN A RURAL AREA AND EXPERIENCED A SUDDEN LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL AND SHARP PULL TO THE RIGHT WHEN HE WAS TRYING TO BRAKE. THIS NEARLY CAUSED HIM TO HIT A TRUCK. WHEN HE REGAINED CONTROL HE NOTICED THE STEERING WHEEL WAS NOT ALIGNED WHILE GOING STRAIGHT AND THE CAR CONTINUED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. WHEN HE MANAGED TO MAKE IT HOME WE JACKED IT UP AND REMOVED THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I NOTICED THAT THE CROSS MEMBER ON THE RIGHT SIDE WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH. THIS WAS THE ONLY NOTICIBLY LARGE AREA OF RUST ON THE CAR. THE CAR IS NOW UNDRIVEABLE.

WHEN DRIVING HOME FROM THE GYM, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY BECAME DIFFICULT TO CONTROL AND THERE WAS AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF PLAY IN THE STEERING WHEEL. AFTER INSPECTING, MY HUSBAND BELIEVES THE CAUSE IS DUE TO FRAME CORROSION AT THE STEERING RACK MOUNT WHICH APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN REPORTED BY OTHER 2009 2010 MAZDA 6 OWNERS..

AFTER EXITING THE HIGHWAY APPLIED TH BRAKES AND STEERING WHEEL WENT TO 12:00 AND 6:00 WHILE THE CAR KEPT GOING STRAIGHT .APPLY THE GAS AND WHEEI GOES BACK TO NORMAL .HIT THE BRAKES AND REPEAT THE CYCLE AGAIN ..TOOK TO DEALERSHIP TO FIND OUT RT. FRONT SUBFRAME IS RUSTED THRU .. CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND IS PARKED AT MONTROSE MAZDA IN KENT OHIO .NEW FRAME AND LABOR IS 2,000.00 AND PARTS ARE BACKORDERED TELLING ME OTHERS HAVE TO BE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES .. WHO ORDERS A NEW FRAME FOR THEIR CAR ? CAR WAS JUST AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND THEN LOST COMPLERE CONTROL OF CAR .GLAD NO ONE WAS HURT

WHILE DRIVING STRAIGHT WHEEL IS AT 12:00 AND 6:00 AND CAR IS GOING STRAIGHT ..FOUND AT DEALERSHIP THAT RT.FRONT SUB-FRAME RUSTED THRU ..CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND NEW FRAMES ARE BACKORDERED EVEN JUNKYARDS ARE OUT ..HAD TO RENT AND BUY A NEW CAR

ON SEPTEMBER 12, 2018 I TOOK MY 2010 MAZDA 6I TO A LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO GET PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE DONE ON THE VEHICLE, REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT. WHEN THE MAZDA TECH STARTED THE JOB, HE DISCOVERED THAT THE ENTIRE FRONT SUB-FRAME THAT HOLDS THE FRONT END SUSPENSION, STEERING COMPONENTS, MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION WAS RUSTED AND ROTTED OUT WITH SEVERAL HOLES AND FLAKING METAL. THE TECH WAS UNABLE TO PERFORM THE JOB AS HE STATED HE COULD NOT REMOVE THE SUB-FRAME AND KEEP IT IN TACT. THE TECH REPORTED THAT THIS CREATED A HAZARDOUS AND UNSAFE CONDITION AND THAT UNTIL REPAIRED WITH A NEW OR OTHER-WISE IN-TACT SUB-FRAME THE CAR WOULD BE UNSAFE TO DRIVE. UPON CHECKING ON-LINE I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS QUICKLY BECOMING A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE MAZDA 6 OF THIS MODEL YEAR (2009 TO 2019). THE SUB-FRAME SHOULD NOT BE THAT ROTTED OUT IN A 2010 VEHICLE WITH 101921 MILES ON IT AND NO RUST ON THE BODY.

WHILE PERFORMING MAINTENANCE ON 2010 MAZDA 6 IT WAS OBSERVED THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION TO THE FRONT SUBFRAME. IT IS VERY NEAR STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND HAD THE FRAME FAILED WHILE DRIVING IT LIKELY WOULD HAVE RESULTED IN LACK OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. PICTURE IS ATTACHED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE STEERING WHEEL STARTED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DETERMINED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE SUBFRAME WAS SEVERELY CORRODED AND FLAKY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200,00. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

CORROSION RELATED STEERING ISSUES. THE FRAME OF THE CAR HAS RUSTED OUT WHERE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM ON THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE CONNECTS TO THE FRAME. WHILE COMING TO A QUICK STOP THE ABS KICKED IN AND THE CAR PULLED TO THE RIGHT WITH A POPPING SOUND. THE CAR WOULD RANDOMLY PULL TO ONE SIDE WHEN DRIVING RESUMED. TOOK THE CAR IN FOR NEW BRAKES AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE FRAME HAS RUSTED OUT. FINDING OTHER LIKE CONCERNS I TOOK THE CAR TO MAZDA WITH NO COMMUNICATION REGARDING THE STATUS OF MY VEHICLE. THE CAR IS 8 YEARS OLD AND SHOULD NOT HAVE FRAME RUST TO THE POINT OF FAILURE.

AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE MY STEERING WHEEL ROTATED CLOCKWISE AND WAS AT AN ANGLE AND MY CAR CONTINUED TO GO STRAIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. IT FELT AS IF I WERE DRIVING ON ICE AND WAS VERY HARD TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. WHILE MAKING A TURN MY FRONT TIRES BEGAN TO SQUEAL. IT WAS VERY HARD TO TURN. WHEN BRAKING THE CAR SHOOK DRAMATICALLY. I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL AUTO MECHANIC BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WAS POSSIBLY SOMETHING WITH THE STEERING. THE MECHANIC CALLED BACK AND WAS SHOCKED TO TELL ME THE SUB FRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTEN AND HAD BROKEN. IT WAS HARD FOR HIM TO BELIEVE THAT A CAR THAT WAS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD WOULD HAVE THAT MUCH CORROSION ON THE FRAME. I PURCHASED THE CAR BRAND NEW AND HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR THE ENTIRE 8 YEARS WITH NO ACCIDENTS AT ALL.

8/11/2018WHILE MERGING FROM ROUTE 9 ONTO ROUTE 95, I HEARD A CLANK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY CAR, DIDN'T THINK SINCE DRIVING THROUGH DEEP FLOODING FROM CURRENT RAINSTORM. WAS ON I-95 WHEN STEERING SEEMED TO GO, VEER TO THE RIGHT AND BRAKES NOT CATCHING. WAS ABLE TO GET OFF HIGHWAY, REGAINED CONTROL OF CAR, WENT TO MY DESTINATION ON RTE 109. DROVE, PUMPED BREAKS SINCE I THOUGHT THE PROBLEM WAS FLOODING & WET BRAKES. LEFT TO GO TO NEXT DESTINATION & STEERING WAS OFF, SO DROVE VERY SLOWLY (STEERING OFF & HAD TO KEEP TURNING TO THE LEFT) ONCE AGAIN THINKING WEATHER RELATED. EXITED 95 TO SPRAUGE ST. DEDHAM WHERE BRAKES WEREN'T WORKING WELL, DROVE TO FRIENDS IN AREA AND AS I DROVE DOWN HILL, CAR LOST STEERING AND I LANDED UP CURB, BRAKES WEREN'T WORKING, PUT ON EMERGENCY BRAKE & FINALLY STOPPED. FRIENDS HOUSE WAS AROUND THE CORNER SO ROLLED DOWN HILL TO HER HOUSE TO LET CAR DRY AS STILL THOUGHT IT WAS FROM FLOODING. LEFT HER HOUSE AFTER AN HOUR, DROVE TWO BLOCKS AND CAR COMPLETELY LOST ALL STEERING, LIGHTS ON DASHBOARD STARTED FLASHING, BRAKES WENT. CALLED AAA AND WAS TOWED TO STEVE'S SERVICE STATION WHERE ON MONDAY THE CAR WAS DEEMED "TOTALED". THE ENTIRE SUB-CARRIAGE WAS COVERED IN RUST & CORROSION, THERE WERE HOLES, PIECES OF METAL FROM THE CAR MISSING AND MAJOR CRACKS ALL UNDERNEATH AND ENCASING THE BRAKES AND OTHER PART OF CAR. WAS TOLD IF I HAD GONE A BIT FASTER ON 95, BOTTOM WOULD HAVE FALLEN LEADING TO SERIOUS ACCIDENT. NOTE: THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS WITH

I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE STEERING, ESPECIALLY WHEN TURNING AT INTERSECTIONS, IT MADE SOME BANG/BUMP NOISES, AND FELT LIKE THE FRONT WHEELS WEREN'T TURNING UNLESS I REALLY CRANKED THE STEERING WHEEL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER FOR AN EVALUATION, AND THEY PROMPTLY PULLED IT OFF THE ROAD, TELLING ME IT WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. TURNS OUT THE FRONT SUBFRAME ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAD RUSTED OUT SO BADLY THAT IT WAS ALMOST SPLIT INTO TWO PIECES, AND I COULD LITERALLY POKE HOLES THROUGH THE RUSTED AREAS, AFFECTING THE OPERATION OF BOTH THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION. IF THE SUBFRAME HAD INDEED SPLIT, ACCORDING TO THE MECHANIC, THE STEERING WOULD'VE FAILED AND I COULD'VE LOST THE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL.

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, WHEN I NOTICED THAT MY STEERING WAS NOT WORKING RIGHT. EVERY TIME I HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD IT BECAME HARD TO CONTROL. TO STAY STRAIGHT, MY STEERING WHEEL HAD TO BE TURN ALMOST COMPLETELY LEFT. I FIGURED I WAS JUST BADLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT. I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP TO GET MY ALIGNMENT DONE, AND THEY TOLD ME THE SUB FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND WELL MAINTAINED. HE WAS NOT ABLE TO EXPLAIN WHY IT WAS ROTTED OUT, BUT THE REST OF THE UNDERNEATH LOOKED GOOD.

AT TAKE OFFS, MY WHEELS SPIN LIKE THERE IS NO TRACTION AND I FEEL LIKE I HAVE NO CONTROL OVER MY CAR. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING, I'VE HAD TO EXAGGERATE THE TURNING OF MY STEERING WHEEL TO CHANGE LANES, WHILE PARKED AND PULLING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT, WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING BROKE(CRACKING). THIS ALSO BRINGS UP THE BRAKES ISSUE. I ALMOST T-BONED SOMEONE THAT RAN A RED LIGHT AND STOPPED IN THE INTERSECTION. I HAD TIME TO STOP BUT MY BRAKES DIDN'T ALLOW TRACTION FOR MY TIRES TO STOP AND I WAS ABLE TO TURN MY STEERING WHEEL ENOUGH TO SWERVE TOWARB THE BACK OF HER TRUCK AND MISS HER.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 70 MPH WHEN ALL OF THE SUDDEN THE CAR VEERED TO THE RIGHT CAUSING HER TO GO INTO THE RIGHT LANE AS SHE WAS IN THE LEFT LANE. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS BESIDE HER AND SHE WAS ABLE TO KEEP THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. SHE STOPPED AND CALLED ME AS I WAS AT WORK TO EXPLAIN WHAT HAD HAPPENED. SHE WAS JUST A FEW MILES AWAY FROM THE EXIT IN WHICH WE LIVE JUST OFF THE INTERSTATE SO SHE WAS ABLE TO LIMP THE CAR HOME. LATER THAT EVENING WHEN I WENT TO LOOK AT IT I NOTICED IMMEDIATELY THAT THE PASSENGER TIRE WAS POINTING OUTWARD A LITTLE BIT. I JACKED THE CAR UP LOOKING TO SEE IF A TIE ROD OR CONTROL ARM HAD BROKE ONLY TO FIND THAT NEITHER HAD BROKE. I LOOKED AT THE FRAME AND SEEN HOW BADLY IT WAS RUSTED AND NOTICED IT ACTUALLY HAD BROKEN APART AND WAS SHIFTED. THIS AREA OF THE SUBFRAME IS DIRECTLY UNDER THE A/C UNIT WHICH DRIPS STRAIGHT DOWN ONTO THE FRAME AREA THAT IS ROTTED. WHICH IS OBVIOUSLY THE REASON THE THE FRAME RUSTED AND BROKE AND SHIFTED CAUSING THE TIRE TO POINT OUTWARD. CALLED MAZDA AND THEY SENT A TOW TRUCK TO RETRIEVE THE CAR. CURRENTLY WAITING ON THEIR INSPECTION AND A CALL FROM MAZDA CORP TO SEE IF THEY WILL BE COVERING THE REPAIR. AFTER READING EVERYONE ELSE'S ISSUES WITH THIS VERY SAME PROBLEM I'M ASSUMING MAZDA WILL TELL ME IT'S OUR PROBLEM. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND I'VE SEEN OTHER'S WHO'S CAR ARE EVEN NEWER AND MAZDA IS TELLING EVERYONE IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE. I STRONGLY DISAGREE WITH IT NOT BEING A MANUFACTURED DEFECT WHEN CLEARIN

WHILE DRIVING ON TOWN ROADS AND AROUND A TRAFFIC CIRCLE A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I ATTEMPTED TO PULL INTO A NEARBY GAS STATION BUT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STEER TO THE LEFT ENOUGH TO ENTER THE PARKING LOT. I MANAGED TO PULL INTO ANOTHER LOT A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN THE STREET ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE. I INSPECTED THE UNDER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND DISCOVERED THE FRONT SUB-FRAME HAD RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT OF FAILURE. THIS FAILURE ALLOWED THE COMPLETE FRONT LEFT WHEEL/SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY TO MOVE ABOUT FREELY UNDER THE CAR.

THE FRAME ON MY VEHICLE SPECIALLY THE 'CRADLE' ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FAILED WHILE BRAKING. SPECIFICALLY THE ''CRADLE' IS RUSTED AND SPLIT ALMOST ALL THE WAY THROUGH. THE VEHICLE IS NOW UNDRIVABLE. IT IS A SEVERE SAFETY RISK

FRONT SUBFRAME CORROSION. WE WERE FORTUNATE IN THAT WE NOTICED THE CAR PULLING TO THE RIGHT, SLOWED DOWN, HEARD A "POP" AND LOST CONTROL OF STEERING BUT WE WERE GOING SLOW PULLED OVER AND TOWED TO GARAGE. THE PART HAS A 3 WEEK DELIVERY TIME AND THE PRICE HAS RECENTLY DOUBLED FROM 600.00 TO 1,200.00 IN THE FEW DAYSOUR MECHANIC CALLED TO GET. THIS SEEMSTO BE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE BUT NO RECALL.

HEARD A KNOCK WHILE DRIVING (AS THOUGH HITTING POTHOLE). NEXT DAY STEERING COLUMN FELT LOOSE, BREAKS SEEMED WORN AND SOUND ON SHARP TURNS. LATER THAT DAY WHILE DRIVING IN CITY, WENT OVER A NORMAL DIP IN THE ROAD AND HEARD A CRACK/LOUDER KNOCK. WHEEL TURNED TO THE LEFT, EVEN THOUGH DRIVING STRAIGHT. WHEN APPLYING BRAKES, WHEEL NOW TURNED TO THE RIGHT. PULLED ASIDE AND RAN OVER CURB AS BRAKES WERE NOT AS EFFECTIVE. INITIAL DIAGNOSIS: BRAKES AND BEARINGS NEED REPAIR (ALTHOUGH THESE WERE REPLACED LESS THAN 5 MONTHS AGO). NEXT DIAGNOSIS: SUBFRAME PSG. SIDE COMPLETELY ROTTED AND CRACKED. WILL TAKE A MONTH TO REPAIR [RENTAL PROVIDED]. NOTE- THE PAST 6 MONTHS I'VE HAD OTHER ISSUES INCLUDING: ELECTRICAL (FUSE FOR RADIO/LOCKS/INT LIGHTS KEEPS BREAKING; AFTER 1.5 HOUR DIAGNOSTIC CAUSE STILL UNKNOWN. CHOSE TO REPLACE FUSE AS NEEDED- WEEKLY TO MONTHLY); 3 TIRES HAVE GONE (EVEN THOUGH 2 WERE FAIRLY NEW; NEEDED ALIGNMENT); BRAKES AND BEARINGS TWICE. COULD BE REGULAR WEAR AND TEAR OR COULD BE RELATED.

I'D LIKE TO REPORT MY OBSERVATION IN REGARDS TO THE FOLLOWING INVESTIGATION: PE18006 UPON PERFORMING ROUTINE MAINTENANCE I OBSERVED HEAVY CORROSION OF THE SUBFRAME OF MY VEHICLE HEAVILY CONCENTRATED TOWARDS THE REAR ENDS OF SAID SUBFRAME. THE DAMAGE IS LARGELY CONCENTRATED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE SUB FRAME BUT BOTH DRIVE AND PASSENGER SIDES ARE IN VARYING STATES OF CORROSION. I CAN CONTRIBUTE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION UPON REQUEST BUT I WANTED TO ADD TO THE ON-GOING INVESTIGATION THAT HEAVY CORROSION TO THE POINT OF ME QUESTIONING THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF SAID SUBFRAME IS FOR SURE AN ISSUE I'M EXPERIENCING. I HAVE NOT CHECKED THE WELDS TO THE VARIOUS SUSPENSION COMPONENTS ATTACHED TO SUB FRAME BUT THE PINCH WELDS ALONG THE INTERIOR EDGE OF THE SUB FRAME HAVE BEEN COMPROMISED ALLOWING THE INGRESS OF ADDITIONAL WATER WHICH I BELIEVE IS ACCELERATING THIS ISSUE. THE WHOLE LOWER SURFACE OF THE SUB FRAME TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE SUB FRAME HAS BEGUN CORRODING AS WELL AND THE PAINT COVERING THE SUB FRAME HAS BUBBLED UP OR SEPARATED ALONG THE EDGE OF THE CORROSION.

I WAS ON A CITY STREET TRAVELLING AROUND 35 MPH. WHILE APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT AND APPLYING THE BRAKES THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTED PULLING TO THE RIGHT AND ALMOST PULLED THE ENTIRE VEHICLE INTO A DITCH. THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP AT THE EDGE OF THE GRASS. I PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER FURTHER TO AVOID TRAFFIC AND NOTICED THE RIGHT TIRE WAS NOW TOUCHING THE WHEEL WELL. AFTER HAVING THE VEHICLE TOWED THE MECHANIC INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WHICH HAD LED TO THE FAILURE.

ON AM OF 06/08/2018, I FELT SOMETHING GIVE IN FRONT END - FELT LIKE A BROKEN STRUT INITIALLY. DRIVING HOME AT 55-60 MPH THAT AFTERNOON, CAR BECAME NOTICEABLY DIFFICULT TO CONTROL - PULLING HARD TO THE RIGHT WHICH CAUSED AUDIBLE METALLIC SCRAPING NOISES FROM INSIDE CAR AND REQUIRED ME TO KEEP STEERING WHEEL TURNED LEFT AT 30-45 DEGREES IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN STRAIGHT LINE. CAR WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN OR KEEP UNDER CONTROL. MADE IT TO FAMILY MEMBER'S HOUSE NEAR MY MECHANIC, AND MADE ARRANGEMENTS TO DROP CAR OFF. ON 06/12/2018, MECHANIC CALLED TO INFORM ME THAT RIGHT FRONT SUBFRAME/ENGINE CRADLE WAS RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT THAT IT HAD CRACKED. HE WAS SHOCKED THAT IT DIDN'T FAIL CATASTROPHICALLY AT SPEED ON HIGHWAY. MAZDA DEALER ADVISED TO CALL MAZDA DIRECTLY TO FILE COMPLAINT. MECHANIC COULD NOT FIND A USED/SALVAGED CRADLE TO MAKE REPAIRS AND MAZDA DEALER INFORMED HIM THAT A CRADLE THEY ORDERED IN DECEMBER 2017 HAD JUST ARRIVED IN MAY 2018 - QUOTED PRICE TO REPAIR WAS ROUGHLY $1,600 PARTS/$1,000+ LABOR. CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AND HAS JUST SHY OF 84,000 MILES.

NOTICED A KNOCKING NOISE DEVELOPING IN FRONT PASSENGER SIDE. TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT AND TO GET NEW TIRES AND ALIGNMENT. I WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE SUB-FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT AND THE CAR WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE. CONTACTED MAZDA FOR NEW SUB-FRAME AND WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE PART HAS BEEN ON BACK ORDER FOR 6 MONTHS AND THEY HAD NO IDEA WHEN THEY WOULD BE AVAILABLE. NOW I AM STUCK WITH AN 8 YEAR OLD CAR THAT IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE WITH NO HOPE FOR REPAIR.

WHEN PERFORMING AN OIL CHANGE I NOTICED THAT THE SUBFRAME / ENGINE CRADLE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE NEAR THE RIGHT SUSPENSION WAS SEVERELY RUSTED. THE SUBFRAME IS NO LONGER STRUCTURALLY SOUND AND I HAVE PARKED THE VEHICLE UNTIL A REPAIR IS COMPLETED. THE VEHICLE IS NO LONGER SAFE TO BE ON THE ROAD. THE SEVERE CORROSION APPEARS TO BE ISOLATED TO THE RIGHT SIDE WITH THE REST OF THE SUBFRAME SHOWING SURFACE CORROSION NORMALLY SEEN IN AN AREA THAT USES ROAD SALT SUCH AS MINNESOTA. I BELIEVE THAT THE CAUSE OF THIS FAILURE IS THE AIR CONDITIONING EVAPORATOR DRAIN DRIPPING ON THE SUBFRAME. AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE ATTACHED PICTURES THERE IS NO DRAIN HOSE USED TO DIVERT THE WATER FROM THE EVAPORATOR AROUND THE FRAME AND OVERBOARD. THIS MOISTURE MIXED WITH THE ROAD SALT CREATED A DANGEROUS AMOUNT OF CORROSION ON A KEY STRUCTURAL COMPONENT. I AM GLAD I NOTICED THIS BEFORE AN ACCIDENT OCCURRED

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. AFTER BEING STOPPED BY A POLICE OFFICER, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE RED REFLECTOR LENS IN THE TAIL LAMPS WERE MISSING. UPON INSPECTING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT BECAME AWARE THAT THE TAIL LIGHT BULBS WERE EXTREMELY HOT, WHICH CAUSED THE REFLECTORS TO SEPARATE FROM THE TAIL LIGHT HOUSINGS. THE DEALER (MAZDA OF JACKSON, 5397 INTERSTATE 55 NORTH FRONTAGE RD, JACKSON, MS 39206, (601) 991-2222) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALSO NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 160,000.

AIR CONDITIONER DRIPS ON TO ENGINE CRADLE RESULTING IN ROT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE SUNGLASS HOLDER SUDDENLY FELL DOWN AND OBSTRUCTED THE CONTACT'S VIEW WHEN USING THE REARVIEW MIRROR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (BROWN MAZDA IN FAIRFAX, VA) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUNGLASS HOLDER WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. ALSO, WHEN REMOVING THE IGNITION KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH, THE METAL SECTION OF THE KEY WOULD BREAK OFF. THE FAILURE HAD NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED FOR EITHER FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000. *TT *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THE DOOR AJAR WARNING INDICATOR AND THE DOME LIGHT ILLUMINATED INDEPENDENTLY. THE CONTACT COASTED THE VEHICLE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND NOTICED THAT ALL THE DOORS WERE CLOSED. IN ADDITION, WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TURNED OFF THE ENGINE, RESTARTED THE VEHICLE, AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED THREE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

LOW BEAM INTERMITTENTLY TURNS OFF. SOMETIMES A FIRM SLAP ON THE HEADLIGHT IS A TEMPORARY RESOLUTION. I INITIALLY THOUGHT IT WAS THE BULB ITSELF, HAD IT REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM CONTINUED. THERE ARE LOTS OF YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON THIS ISSUE. MAZDA KEEPS TELLING THAT THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE AND THEY REFUSE TO DO ANYTHING. IF THEY WANT TO DO BUSINESS IN THE USA, THEY NEED TO BE SAFE OR THEY NEED TO GO BACK TO WHERE THEY BELONG. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN HAPPENING SINCE 2014 (I BOUGHT THIS CAR IN 2013)

PASSENGER DASH MELTED AND SHINY AND VERY STICKY TO THE TOUCH

LOW BEAM INTERMITTENTLY TURNS OFF. SOMETIMES A FIRM SLAP ON THE HEADLIGHT IS A TEMPORARY RESOLUTION. I INITIALLY THOUGHT IT WAS THE BULB ITSELF, HAD IT REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM CONTINUED. THERE ARE LOTS OF YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON THIS ISSUE. MAZDA KEEPS TELLING THAT THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE AND THEY REFUSE TO DO ANYTHING. IF THEY WANT TO DO BUSINESS IN THE USA, THEY NEED TO BE SAFE OR THEY NEED TO GO BACK.

THE PASSENGER AIRBAG WARNING IS ALWAYS GOING ON WHEN I AM IN A PARKED POSITION.

2010 MAZDA MAZDA 6. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO PASSENGER AIR BAG SAFETY RECALL. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME COMPLETING THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONSUMER STATED THE PASSENGER DASH MADE A CLICKING NOISE. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE, BUT CHARGED THE CONSUMER A DIAGNOSTIC FEE. *JS

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V594000 (AIR BAGS); HOWEVER, THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

SINCE I HAVE OWNED CAR, GRADUAL DETERIORATION OF INTERIOR COMPONENTS TO INCLUDE SAFETY ITEM; CRACKED REAR-VIEW MIRROR, CEILING SUNGLASSES HOLDER (BLOCKS REAR-VIEW MIRROR, CHANGE HOLDER (HIT EVERY TIME GET INTO CAR), SEAT TRACK COVER (DANGER OF PUTTING FINGER INSIDE), AND STEERING WHEEL PLASTIC LOOSE. I HAVE IMAGES OF THE REMAINING ITEMS, ALTHOUGH FILE SIZE PREVENTED UPLOAD AND CAN SEND UNDER SEPARATE COVER.

2010 MAZDA 6 ISPORT PASSENGER DASHBOARD CRASH PAD HAS BEEN MELTING PROGRESSIVELY FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS. ONLY BEGAN NOTICING THE DASH MELTING UPON MY MOVE TO HAWAII, SO I ASSUME IT IS A RESULT OF SUBPAR PARTS AND THE HOT/HUMID CLIMATE. THIS APPEARS TO BE COMMON WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL, BASED ON RESEARCH INTO THE ISSUE.

THE AIRBAG COVER STARTED OUT JUST BEING STICKY TO THE TOUCH. OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS IT HAD BEEN PROGRESSIVELY WORST TO THE POINT THAT IT IS EXTREMELY STICKY, SHINY, AND IF YOU TRY TO CLEAN THE WINDSHIELD FROM THE INSIDE THE PAPER STICKS TO THE DASH. I TRIED TO GET THE PAPER OFF, BUT PLUGS OF THE DASH COME OFF WHEN I DO. I JUST WANT MAZDA TO STOP DRAGGING THEIR FEET AND MANUFACTURER THE PARTS SO THAT THIS PROBLEM CAN BE RESOLVED. I DO NOT FEEL THAT THIS IS SAFE IF THE AIRBAGS WHERE TO BE DEPLOYED. MAZDA HAS SAID IF I WERE INVOLVED IN ANY ACCIDENT IT WOULD BE REPLACED. HOWEVER IT WOULD NOT BE THEM REPLACING IT, IT WOULD BE THE INSURANCE COMPANY PAYING THE COST.