DASHBOARD MELTING. THE DASHBOARD HAS MELTED. IT CAUSES A SEVERE GLARE ON THE WINDSHIELD THAT MAKES IT DIFFICULT TO DRIVE AT TIME. HAVE HAD TO COVER UP WHEN THIS OCCURS.
2010 Mazda Mazda3 complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2010 record →
THE WELDS ON THE FRONT SEAT ATTACHMENTS HAVE SNAPPED OFF.
MY DRIVERS SIDE SEAT BRACKET HAS BROKEN CAUSING THE SEAT TO ROCK SLIGHTLY. ALSO, THE DASHBOARD APPEARS TO BE MELTING WITH A SHINY STICKY SPOT.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE RADIO ACTIVATED INDEPENDENTLY. THE RADIO TURNED ON AND OFF WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. IN ADDITION, THE WINDOWS FAILED TO WORK INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.
COPIED FROM AN EXISTING COMPLAINT BECAUSE I HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM: THE SWING ARM THAT ATTACHES THE DRIVER'S SEAT TO THE LEFT-SIDE SEAT RUNNER UNEXPECTEDLY DETACHED. CLOSE INSPECTION REVEALED THAT THIS WAS CAUSED BY A WELD FAILURE / METAL FATIGUE AT THE POINT WHERE THE ARM WAS WELDED TO THE ROD THAT RUNS BELOW THE CUSHION. THE SEAT IS NOW UNSTABLE AND ROCKS IN AN ALARMING WAY, BOTH WHEN ACCELERATING AND DECELERATING. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITH A POPPING NOISE AS I PREPARED TO PULL AWAY FROM A PARKING SPOT.
TWICE NOW, WHEN I WAS ALERTED VIA MY TPMS THAT I HAD LOW TIRE PRESSURE IN ONE OF MY TIRES, I STOPPED AT A SERVICE STATION TO ADD AIR TO MY LOW PRESSURE TIRE. AS I APPLIED THE AIR HOSE TO THE VALVE STEM, THE VALVE STEM (AND THE ATTACHED TPMS SENSOR, DISAPPEARED INTO THE WHEEL AND TIRE AND THE TIRE WENT IMMEDIATELY FLAT. . I BELIEVE THIS TO BE THE RESULT OF FAULTY DESIGN OF THE TPMS ASSEMBLY. THE MATERIALS USED IN THE COLLAR AND NUT THAT SECURE THE TPMS ASSEMBLY TO THE WHEEL IS NOT APPROPRIATE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT (EXPOSED TO ROAD SALT, DIRT, GRIME, BRAKE DUST, ETC.) IN WHICH THE TPMS ASSEMBLY MUST FUNCTION. THE COLLAR AND NUT CORRODE AND EVENTUALLY FAIL DUE TO THAT EXPOSURE. FORTUNATELY FOR ME, I WAS STOPPED AT THE TIME OF THOSE FAILURES; HAD I BEEN TRAVELING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS THE COMPLETE FAILURE (NO AIR PRESSURE REMAINING IN TIRE) COULD HAVE BEEN CATASTROPHIC. THE FIRST ASSEMBLY FAILED AT APPROXIMATELY 36,500 MILES AND THIS MOST RECENT ONE FAILED AT 61,800 MILES. BOTH TPMS ASSEMBLIES WERE OEM PARTS AND WERE INSTALLED ON THE VEHICLE WHEN WE BOUGHT THE CAR NEW FROM MAZDA. I HAVE SEEN MANY REPORTS ONLINE DESCRIBING SIMILAR FAILURES. TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE, MAZDA HAS NOT YET RECOGNIZED OR ACKNOWLEDGED THIS AS A PROBLEM WITH THE DESIGN AND FAILURE OF THEIR TPMS ASSEMBLIES. I WOULD LIKE THEM TO ACKNOWLEDGE THE PROBLEM AND TAKE ACTION TO ADDRESS THEIR FAULTY DESIGN, BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT OR DIES FROM AN ACCIDENT RESULTING FROM ANOTHER TPMS ASSEMBLY FAILURE.
THE SWING ARM THAT ATTACHES THE DRIVER'S SEAT TO THE LEFT-SIDE SEAT RUNNER UNEXPECTEDLY DETACHED. CLOSE INSPECTION REVEALED THAT THIS WAS CAUSED BY A WELD FAILURE / METAL FATIGUE AT THE POINT WHERE THE ARM WAS WELDED TO THE ROD THAT RUNS BELOW THE CUSHION. THE SEAT IS NOW UNSTABLE AND ROCKS IN AN ALARMING WAY, BOTH WHEN ACCELERATING AND DECELERATING. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITH A POPPING NOISE AS I PREPARED TO PULL AWAY FROM A PARKING SPOT. I PURCHASED THE CAR NEW AND HAVE TREATED IT GENTLY. I AM A SKINNY GUY AND HAVE AT NO TIME BEEN ROUGH ON THE SEAT. I AM SURPRISED THAT THERE IS NO RECALL ON THIS FAILURE AS IT IS CLEARLY A SAFETY ISSUE.
FRAME BRACKET BROKE WHILE DRIVING IN TOWN ON THE FRONT DRIVER SEAT CAUSING THE SEAT TO ROCK COMPLETELY BACK
DASHBOARD SEPARATING DIRECTLY OVER THE MILEAGE/STEREO/GPS INSTRUMENT PANEL IS SEPARATING/COMING UNGLUED FROM THE TOP OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE AREA SEPARATED/UNGLUED IS APPROX. 5-6" LONG. IT IS PUFFY IN THE CENTER DIRECTLY ABOVE.
THE CAR HAS 43000 POWER STEERING WENT OUT AS I WAS DRIVING CAUSING A PROBLEM VEHICLE
TRANSMISSION INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON WHILE DRIVING, WHICH CAUSED THE CAR TO NOT SHIFT BEYOND 3 GEAR. AFTER DIAGNOSIS, IT WAS DETERMINED THAT A NEW SOLENOID WAS NEEDED. AFTER THAT, IT WAS THEN DETERMINED THAT A NEW TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE WAS NEEDED. THE FIRST ONE FROM THE MANUFACTURER WAS DEFECTIVE AND A SECOND WAS NEEDED.
AT 78,000 MILES ONE OF MY VALVE STEMS FAILED WHILE DRIVING AT 65 MPH. WHEN I INSPECTED THE OTHER THREE WHEELS, BASED ON A RECOMMENDATION FROM SHOP, I FOUND ANOTHER STEM WITH ABOUT 2/3 OF THE NUT MISSING ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE STEM SHAFT. SEE PICTURES. IF THE FRONT WHEEL STEM HAD FAILED RATHER THAN THE BACK WHEEL STEM I COULD HAVE HAD SERIOUS CONTROL ISSUES.
PART OF THE METAL MOUNTING THAT HOLDS THE DRIVER'S SEAT FRONT LEFT SIDE IN PLACE BROKE, AND NOW THE SEAT ROCKS. THIS HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. THE SEAT IS NOW SECURED AT THREE POINTS RATHER THAN 4, AND I'M CONCERNED ABOUT THE STRENGTH OF THE OTHER FRONT MOUNTING POINT. SEEMS LIKE A SIGNIFICANT SAFETY COMPLAINT, AND A QUICK CHECK ONLINE INDICATES THAT THIS IS A WIDESPREAD, KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE 2010 MAZDA 3.
WHILE SERVICING A CUSTOMER'S VEHICLE WE INFLATED THEIR TIRES. WHEN THE AIR CHUCK CLAMPED ON THE VALVE STEM, IT BROKE CAUSING ALL AIR TO ESCAPE FROM THE TIRE, IMMOBILIZING THE VEHICLE.
WHILE SERVICING A CUSTOMER'S VEHICLE WE INFLATED THEIR TIRES. WHEN THE AIR CHUCK CLAMPED ON THE VALVE STEM, IT BROKE CAUSING ALL AIR TO ESCAPE FROM THE TIRE, IMMOBILIZING THE VEHICLE.
VALVE STEMS ON TIRES BLOW OUT WITH VERY LITTLE WARNING. IT HAS HAPPENED THREE TIMES ON MY VEHICLE, TWICE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WITH MY SMALL CHILD IN THE BACKSEAT. THE SENSOR FOR LOW TIRE PRESSURE GOES ON AND WITHIN A MINUTE THE TIRE IS COMPLETELY RUINED. AND THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT WAS WITH A TIRE ONLY SIX MONTHS OLD AND LESS THAN 10000 MILES. THERE IS NOT ENOUGH TIME TO EVEN PULL OVER. THIS IS VERY UNSAFE AND SCARY.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START AND WAS TOWED TO THE CONTACT'S RESIDENCE. AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC CAME TO THE CONTACT'S RESIDENCE AND INSPECTED THE VEHICLE. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE MAIN FUSE HAD SHORT CIRCUITED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT REFERENCED NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 09V126000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM); HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 144,000.
THE RADIO VOLUME CONTROL CAN NOT TURN OFF. IF CLICK THE VOLUME KNOB TO TURN OFF, THE VOLUME BECOME 10 TIMES LOUDER. WHEN THE RADIO VOLUME IS AT "ON" STATE, ONLY LEFT DOOR BOSE HAS SOUND. WHEN THE RADIO VOLUME IS AT "OFF" STATE, THE SOUND LEVEL IS 10 TIMES LOUDER IN LEFT REAR BOSE SPEAKER. SOME TIMES, WHEN RADIO IS ON, IT COULD AUTOMATICALLY JUMP TO 10 TIMES LOUDER BY ITSELF.
DRIVER SEAT FLIPS BACKWARDS - CANNOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
DASHBOARD MELTS IN HOT SUN CAUSING GLARE WHILE DRIVING AND LEAVES STICKY BLACK RESIDUE WHEN TOUCHED. OVER HALF OF MY DASH IS MELTED.
MY 2010 MAZDA HAS HAD A BUILD UP OF CONDENSATION IN THE DRIVER'S HEADLIGHT FOR SOME TIME AND RECENTLY THE DRIVER'S HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. I WAS ADVISED BY THE DEALERSHIP THAT I WOULD NEED TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE HEADLAMP WHICH REQUIRES REMOVAL OF THE BUMPER. I WOULD BE LOOKING AT CLOSE TO $1000+ TO COMPLETE THE REPAIR. I DECLINED THE REPAIR AS I WANTED TO DO MORE RESEARCH ON THE SAFETY BULLETINS THAT ARE POSTED FOR THIS SAME EXACT ISSUE. THE DEALERSHIP DECLINED TO REPAIR THE ISSUE BASED ON THE PUBLISHED SAFETY BULLETINS. RECENTLY, CONDENSATION HAS STARTED IN MY PASSENGER SIDE HEADLAMP AND THAT HEADLIGHT IS NOW OUT AS WELL. IT SHOULD BE NOTED I LIVE IN THE DRY SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA ENVIRONMENT SO MY CAR IS HARDLY EVER EXPOSED TO WATER FOR CONDENSATION TO EVEN BE BUILDING UP. THIS POSES A REAL DANGER TO DRIVERS AS THE HEADLIGHTS MAY GO OUT (POSSIBLY BOTH) WHILE DRIVING CAUSING VERY UNSAFE DRIVING CONDITIONS BOTH FOR THOSE IN THE VEHICLE BUT FOR OTHER VEHICLES SHARING THE ROAD.
MY DASH IS MELTING. TOUCH IT AND IMPRINTS ARE MADE. IT BE LIKE THIS FOR 3 YEARS BUT GETTING WORSE
THE DRIVER'S SEAT FRAME BREAKS RESULTING IN THE DRIVER OF THE VEHICLE TO ROCK BACKWARDS WITH THE SEAT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN FORWARD MOTION. THE CAR BECOMES UNCONTROLLABLE WHEN THE SEAT ROCKS BACK CAUSING THE DRIVER TO HOLD THEMSELVES UPRIGHT TRYING TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE. THE SEAT EXHIBITS CHARACTERISTICS THAT CAN ONLY BE CALLED UNSAFE. THIS DEFECT WILL ULTIMATELY RESULT IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WITH INJURY OR DEATH. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED WHEN THIS WAS FIRST NOTICED. THE DEFECT WITH THE SEAT FRAME ALSO RENDERS THE SEAT BELT USELESS AND IS SAFETY HAZARD COMPOUNDED BY THE SEAT FRAME BREAKING LOOSE. THIS DEFECT APPEARS TO HAPPEN ONLY ON THE 2010 MAZDA 3 MODEL AND THERE ARE MANY ADDITIONAL COMPLAINTS, BOTH HERE AND IN PUBLIC FORUMS. MAZDA NEEDS TO RECALL FOR REPLACEMENT OF A SEAT FRAME THAT IS BUILT SO AS NOT TO BREAK IN NORMAL USE. WHY THIS HAS NOT HAPPENED IS NEGLIGENT. MY LOCAL MAZDA DEALER GAVE ME AN ESTIMATE OF $980.00 TO REPAIR THE SEAT FRAME. THE MANAGER WAS NOT WILLING TO NEGOTIATE THE COST OF THE REPAIR NOR WILLING TO DISCUSS FURTHER.
2010 MADZA3 LESS THAN 40,000 MILES. WENT TO HAVE SNOW TIRES REMOVED AFTER WINTER SEASON. ALL FOUR TPMS VALVES CORRODED AND BROKEN INTO PIECES. TIRE DEALER WOULD NOT RELEASE CAR WITH VALVES IN THIS CONDITION. HAVE TEMPORARILY REPLACED WITH REGULAR, NON-MONITORING VALVES. SIX YEAR OLD VEHICLE WITH THIS FEW MILES SHOULD NOT BE HAVING THIS ISSUE. NO RECALL ISSUED, BUT OBVIOUSLY COMMON ISSUE WITH THIS MODEL. WHY HASN'T RECALL BEEN ISSUED. COULD BE CATASTROPHIC ON HIGHWAY.
DRIVER'S SIDE WINDOW HAS FALLEN OFF TRACK AND DOES NOT CLOSE AS IT SHOULD. FURTHER, WHEN YOU REMOVE YOUR FINGER FROM THE AUTOMATIC "UP" BUTTON, THE WINDOW WILL AUTOMATICALLY ROLL DOWN AFTER RELEASING THE BUTTON (AS IF IT HAS A LIFE OF IT'S OWN). THIS IS A WINDOW MOTOR OR ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. THIS CAN HAPPEN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS MOVING OR WHEN IT IS STATIONARY ... CITY OR HIGHWAY.
THE DRIVER SEAT OF MY CAR UNEXPECTEDLY DETACHED FROM SEAT MOUNT DURING NORMAL USE, THE DRIVER SEAT FELL BACKWARD ON TO THE BACK SEAT, LEAVING MY CAR NON-FUNCTIONAL. FOR SAFETY REASONS, I HAD MY CAR TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP, A DISTANCE OF APPROXIMATELY 25 MILES. I WAS PLEASED THAT THE SERVICE REP MADE AN EFFORT TO CHECK TO SEE IF THERE WERE OTHER SIMILAR REPAIRS REPORTED. HE TOLD ME THAT THERE WERE NONE FOUND. HOWEVER, LATER I FOUND OUT THAT THERE WERE FORTY-NINE OTHER CONSUMER COMPLAINTS MADE TO YOUR OFFICE, NHTSA, REGARDING THE DRIVER SEAT IN THIS SAME MAKE, MODEL AND YEAR MAZDA. I HOPE THAT THE OFFICE OF DEFECTS INVESTIGATION (ODI) CONSIDERS OPENING AN INVESTIGATION TO REMEDY THE DEFECT IN THIS GROUP OF VEHICLE, AND, THE UNREASONABLE SAFETY RISK IT HAS ON PUBLIC SAFETY.
MY CAR HAS HAD RATTLING NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE HOOD FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW AND TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC AND THEY SAID IT IS COMMON FOR THIS MODEL TO HAVE A MOTOR MOUNT ISSUE.. BUT NOT TO FIX IT YET BECAUSE IT IS JUST NOW STARTING AND IT WILL BE FINE FOR A 6 MONTHS OR SO?!?!? SERIOUSLY ...
DRIVERS SEAT BROKE LOOSE. WAS AT A STOP LIGHT. WHEN I STARTED MY LEFT TURN THE SEAT SUDDENLY ROCKED BACK AND THEN SLAMMED FORWARD. I ALMOST LOST CONTROL AS MY FOOT HAD COME OFF THE GAS PEDAL DURING THE ROCK BACK AND THEN STEPPED BACK ON IT AS I WAS THROWN FORWARD FORWARD. THE CAR HAS ALWAYS HAD A CLICKING NOISE COMING FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE SEAT.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 4 MPH, THE CONTACT HEARD A NOISE INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THE TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED; HOWEVER, IT FUNCTIONED AS DESIGNED AND WAS NOT RELATED TO THE FAILURE. IN ADDITION, WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE SUN ROOF FAILED TO CLOSE, THE VEHICLE VIBRATED AND VEERED TO THE RIGHT NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO CONFIRMED THAT THE INTERNAL SOFTWARE MALFUNCTIONED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 75,000. UPDATED 07/27/16*LJ *TR
MY DRIVER SIDEHEADLIGHT IS OUT AGAIN. I WENT TO THE DEALER LAST MONTH WITH NO HEADLIGHT AND CONDENSATION INSIDE THE HEADLIGHT HOUSING. PAID $750 FOR THEM TO REPLACE THE UNIT. ITS BARELY A MONTH LATER AND THE SAME LIGHT IS OUT AGAIN AFTER IT RAINED TWO DAYS BEFORE. ITS AGAIN FULL OF CONDENSATION. THE HEADLIGHT HOUSING IS FAULTY AS IT ALLOWS WATER TO COME INSIDE AND SHORT OUT HID BULBS AND UNIT.
STEERING WHEEL LOCKS UP WHILE DRIVING. CANNOT MANEUVER. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY.
STEERING WHEEL LOCKING UP WHILE DRIVING, UNABLE TO TURN THE CAR
[I BOUGHT MY CAR USED, AND IT CAME WITH THE TPMS LIGHT ON. I WAS TOLD IT WAS BECAUSE THE PASSENGER REAR SENSOR WASN'T TRANSMITTING. I CHECK MY TIRE PRESSURE OFTEN, AND IGNORE THE TPMS LIGHT BECAUSE THOSE SENSORS ARE EXPENSIVE! MORE ON THIS LATER.] AS I WAS ACCELERATING FROM A STOP LIGHT A FEW WEEKS AGO, I REALIZED I WAS GETTING A FLAT TIRE ON THE DRIVER FRONT. I PULLED OVER AND, AS I WAS TAKING THE LUG NUTS OFF, NOTICED THE VALVE STEM HAD DISAPPEARED. AFTER I GOT TO THE TIRE SHOP AND THEY WERE INSPECTING THE TIRE, THE TECH INFORMED ME THE FLAT WAS BECAUSE THE ENTIRE VALVE HAD FALLEN OUT OF THE TIRE! THEY ALSO INFORMED ME THE PASSENGER REAR TIRE DID NOT HAVE A FAULTY SENSOR; THE VALVE HAD BEEN REPLACED (BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER) WITH A NON-SENSOR VALVE. I FOUND IT STRANGE THAT NOW TWO TIRE VALVES HAD BEEN REPLACED ON MY CAR. WHEN I RESEARCHED THIS ONLINE, I DISCOVERED MY MODEL YEAR HAS SEVERAL COMPLAINTS OF THE VALVES BREAKING OR FALLING OUT! AND NOW MY DRIVER REAR TIRE IS LOSING AIR, SO I SUSPECT THAT VALVE NEEDS REPLACED, AS WELL. I CONTACTED MAZDA AND WAS SURPRISED TO FIND THEIR EMAIL RESPONSE INCLUDED NO MENTION AT ALL OF THE TIRE VALVES - THE ENTIRE POINT OF MY CONTACTING THEM. I FOUND OTHER OWNERS ONLINE STATING MAZDA IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM, BUT REFUSES TO ISSUE A RECALL. AT THIS POINT, I HAVE ONE REPLACED VALVE WITHOUT A SENSOR (COURTESY OF THE PREVIOUS OWNER), THE $80 VALVE I JUST REPLACED (WITH A SENSOR), ONE VALVE I SUSPECT IS LEAKING AND NEEDS REPLACEDN, AND ONE VALV
THE DASH BOARD IS MELTING FROM HEAT.
I WAS DRIVING WITH FRIENDS IN THE CAR ON THE HIGHWAY TO GET SOME DINNER. 70 IS OUR SPEED LIMIT. ALL OF SUDDEN I HEARD A SNAP UNDER ME AND MY BODY SHIFTED. I SIT PRETTY UP RIGHT SO I FELT MOVING BACK AT LEAST TWO INCHES AND MY HAND SHIFT POSITION AS WELL WHICH ALMOST CAUSE A ACCIDENT. I CALL THE DEALER TODAY, "YOU'RE NOT UNDER WARRANTY, SORRY" REALLY? I ALMOST DIE IN A CAR YOU GUYS SELL ME AND I GET A SORRY? IT WAS EITHER GET IT FIX OR PLAY WHEN THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SEAT BRACKET IS GOING TO SNAP.
I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE EALRY 2010. AROUND 2013 MY DASHBOARD STARTED TO SHINE A BIT IN A SMALL SECTION BY THE DRIVER SIDE. I TOUCHED IT AND THE MATERIAL OF THE DASHBOARD WAS STICKY. NOW, 2016, THE WHOLE DASHBOARD IS STICKY AND SHINEY DUE TO WHAT I FOUND OUT WAS A MELTING DASHBOARD. THIS IS CAUSING A HORRIBLE REFLECTION ON MY WINDOW WHEN DRIVING, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE SUN HITS. EVEN AT NIGHT I HAVE TROUBLE SEEING PROPERLY. MY VISIBILITY DRIVING IS BEING AFFECTED AND IT IS NOT SAFE. ON TOP OF THAT, EVERYTHING STICKS TO MY DASHBOARD AND ENDS UP WITH BLACK GUNK ON IT. THE PICTURES I'VE ATTACHED DO NOT DO IT JUSTICE, IT'S WORSE THAN WHAT IT LOOKS IN THE PICTURES.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE DASHBOARD WAS DETERIORATING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 79,000.
THE INSIDE PANEL OF THE DRIVER, WITH HEAT GETS STICKY AND PREVENT THE DISPLAY BRIGHTER THAN THE SUN
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED, THE TRACTION CONTROL AND THE ANTI LOCK BRAKE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT DISCONNECTED AND RECONNECTED THE BATTERY CABLE BUT THE LIGHTS REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC BUT THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 103,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START THE VEHICLE, IT FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 09V126000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 82,000.
THE DASHBOARD IS MELTING. IT IS WORSE ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE AND CONTINUES ACROSS THE WHOLE DASHBOARD. IT IS CAUSING A NOXIOUS FUMES AND A GLARE THAT AT TIMES GOES ACROSS THE LOWER PART OF THE WINDSHIELD. THE GLARE IS WORSE IN THE MORNING AS THE SUN RISES AND ON SUNNY DAYS. THE GLARE CHANGES AS YOU DRIVE AND MAKES THE ROAD APPEAR AS IF SOMETHING IS IN FRONT OF YOU ON THE ROAD. THE GLARE CAN BE FROM 5 INCHES DIRECTLY IN YOUR LINE OF SIGHT TO GOING ACROSS AT LEAST 2/3 OF YOUR VIEWING LINE THROUGH THE WINDSHIELD-CAUSING IT TO LOOK AS IF SOMEONE HAS THROWN SLICK OIL OR A SILVER SHEET OF METAL IN THE ROAD. HAVE SWERVED QUITE A FEW TIMES (DEPENDING ON THE DIRECTION I AM DRIVING), CAN'T SEE WHEN PEOPLE STEP OFF OF A CURB, AS THE GLARE COMES IN THE SOON AND CAN BE THERE FROM THE START OF YOUR DRIVE OR APPEAR OUT OF THE BLUE AS YOU CHANGE DIRECTIONS OR PARK. YOU CAN'T HELP TO RESPOND TO THE GLARE WHEN IT APPEARS-ESPECIALLY WHEN ON UNFAMILIAR ROADS. THE SMELL IS OF BURNING PLASTIC. I LIVE IN FLORIDA ANY DAY OVER 80 DEGREES IN THE SHADE OR WHEN PARKED DIRECTLY IN THE SUN CAUSES THE DASHBOARD TO EMIT A NOXIOUS SMELL, GET SOFT AND GOOEY. BUGS, INSECT DROPPINGS, DUST, AND LINT GET STUCK IN THE DASHBOARD AND CAUSE GLARE. I DRIVE AT LEAST 3 HOUR/DAY MINIMUM. THE SMELL CAUSES A HEADACHE/SORE THROAT/NAUSEA. I CAN'T PUT A VISOR TO BLOCK THE SUN-IT GETS STUCK IN THE MELTING DASH AND THE VISOR. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE VISOR IT SPLATTERS "GOO/PLASTIC" ONTO THE WINDSHIELD, WHICH CAN ONLY BE REMOVED WITH
TIRE SENSOR MALFUNCTIONS AND PUNCTURES THE TIRE. I HAD ALREADY REPLACED TIRE SENSORS ON ALL THE WHEELS AND IT IS HAPPENING EVERY YEAR. I ONLY HAD 44,000 MILES AND I HAD TO REPLACE ALL THE TIRES AND TIRE SENSORS. I HAD THE CAR PARKED YESTERDAY NIGHT AND ALL THE TIRES HAD GOOD PRESSURE AND DROVE IN THE MORNING OUT THE DRIVEWAY. WITHIN LESS THAN 0.5 DRIVING MY FRONT PASSENGER WHEEL GOT FLAT. AFTER TOWING TO DEALER, I FOUND OUT IT WAS DUE TIRE SENSOR.
TIRE VALVE STEM ON 2010 MAZDA 3 CORRODING AND BRAKING APART. THE FIRST VALVE STEM BROKE OFF WHILE I WAS PUTTING AIR IN MY TIRES. NOW TWO MORE ARE VISIBLY CORRODED AND THE NUT THAT HOLDS THE VALVE STEM TO THE WHEEL ARE BREAKING APART (ONE OF THEM HALF THE NUT FELL OFF).
THE HEADLIGHTS DO NOT WORK AT ALL FOR EITHER LOW OR HIGH BEAMS MAKING THE VEHICLE UNSAFE TO DRIVE ESPECIALLY DURING RAIN OR AT NIGHT. THERE IS NOT ONLY MOISTURE BUT QUITE A BIT OF WATER ACCUMULATED INSIDE BOTH HEADLIGHTS. THIS VEHICLE WAS RECENTLY PURCHASED ON SEPTEMBER 2015 AS A CERTIFIED PRE OWN WHICH COMES WITH FULL LIMITED WARRANTY. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER TO SERVICE THE ISSUE BUT THEY INDICATED THAT THE REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT WAS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY. THEIR ESTIMATE TO REPAIR IT IS $1,900.00 I STRONGLY BELIEVE THAT IS MORE A MANUFACTURER SAFETY ISSUE THAN A WARRANTY CLAIM. I DID RESEARCH AND THERE ARE NO RECALLS ON THE HEADLIGHTS FOR MY PARTICULAR VEHICLE, BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL COMPLAINS CALLING IT A CONDENSATION ISSUE ON 2010 MAZDA 3S. IT WAS ALSO STRANGE THAT THE DEALER REP COMMENTED THAT THE VEHICLE MAY HAVE BEEN IN A CRASH WHEN THE CARFAX REPORT INDICATED THE OPPOSITE AND WE HAVE THANKFULLY BEEN ACCIDENT FREE SINCE ITS PURCHASE. PLEASE REVIEW AND ADVISE.
THE DRIVER'S SEAT BREAKS AWAY FROM THE FLOOR OF THE VEHICLE WHEN SITTING IN THE SEAT CAUSING THE DRIVER TO HAVE TO LEAN FORWARD OR ELSE THE SEAT ROCKS WAY BACK CAUSING THE DRIVER TO HOLD THEMSELVES UPRIGHT. DURING A FAST ACCELERATION OR QUICK STOP THE CHAIR EXHIBITS CHARACTERISTICS THAT CAN ONLY BE CALLED UNSAFE AND UNSETTLING TO THE DRIVER. I CAN ONLY IMAGINE HOW THE SEAT WILL HOLD UP IN THE EVENT OF A COLLISION OR ACCIDENT. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED WHEN THIS WAS FIRST NOTICED.
DASHBOARD IS MELTED, CAUSING EXTREME GLARE DURING THE DAYTIME. THE GLARE FROM THE MELTED DASHBOARD IS DIFFICULT TO SEE THROUGH AND CAUSES SAFETY AND VISIBILITY ISSUES WHILE DRIVING.
I NOTICED THAT MY SEAT WAS ROCKING ON THE LEFT SIDE AND WOULD LIFT UP. WHEN I GOT DOWN ON THE FLOOR BOARD TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON I NOTICED THAT ONE OF THE FRONT WELDS WAS COMPLETELY BROKE OFF AND LAYING ON THE FLOOR BOARD. WHILE TAKING MY DAUGHTER TO DAYCARE THIS MORNING, I WENT TO ACCELERATE AND THE OTHER SIDE OF MY SEAT BROKE AND MY ENTIRE SEAT WENT BACK, ALMOST CAUSING ME TO GET INTO AN AUTO ACCIDENT WHEN I LOST CONTROL OF THE CAR. NOT ONLY WAS MY AND MY 3 YR OLD DAUGHTERS SAFETY AT RISK, BUT I NOW HAVE LOST A DAY OF WORK UNTIL THIS CAN BE FIXED. AS IF THIS WAS NOT ENOUGH, I SPOKE WITH MAZDA CORP. (1-800-222-5500) ABOUT 3 WEEKS AGO B/C MY DASHBOARD IS TOTALLY MELTED. THE REPRESENTATIVE WAS VERY NICE AND MAZDA IS GOING TO REPLACE MY DASHBOARD AFTER YEARS OF THE RUN AROUND AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE BIGGER ISSUE: HOW IS IT THAT MAZDA IS INVOLVED IN A CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT FOR THEIR DASH BOARDS MELTING, AND THEY HAVE PLENTY OF COMPLAINTS FILED IN THE NHTSA WEBSITE FOR FAULTY SEAT WELDS, AND THERE IS NO RECALL ON EITHER OF THESE THINGS???????????????? WHY??????????? DO LIVES HAVE TO BE LOST FOR THE GOVERNMENT TO DO A RECALL????
DASHBOARD MELTING. GLARE ON WINSHIELD
DASHBOARD COVER IS MELTING CAUSING EXTREME GLARE AND INABILITY TO DRIVE SAFELY.
MELTING DASHBOARD. MINE IS NOT AS SEVERE AS OTHERS HAVE REPORTED. BUT THERE IS A STICKY/GOOEY FEEL TO PART OF MY DASHBOARD.
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2010 Mazda Mazda3 → · Every Mazda3 year → · How the figures are calculated →