2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5 complaints

While driving vehicle, car had sudden and rapid loss of power that resulted in significant decrease in speed. Vehicle was nearly in a rear-end Collision due to sudden drop in speed. The car is currently being inspected by the Hyundai dealership with reported failure of the ICCU.

As I was parking my car I got a yellow warning battery light. It said to check the electrical system. When starting the car the warning light came back on and this time the car went into "turtle mode" where the car won't go over 25 miles per hour. After that the car flashed a red warning light and said to stop driving immediately. I called for a tow and the dealership diagnosed the problem as an ICCU and Fuse problem. They informed me they have ordered the part but that it make take over a month to get the part in. The car only has 11,000 miles on it and is just over 1 year old.

On may 12 I was driving on Lake Mead hwy when I heard a pop and lost power I pulled over and checked the car and couldn't find any visible issues I was very close to home, The car went into turtle mode and was able to make it home just before everything shut down. The Hyundai dealer said its the ICCU unit and fuse. No accident or injuries. Lucky I wasn't traveling to CA. which I often do.

Likely ICCU failure incapacitated vehicle while in motion on highway. Vehicle decelerated uncontrollably and would not re-accelerate. Shortly thereafter 12v battery warning appeared and vehicle was no longer operable. Series of warning lights. “check electric vehicle system” upon car starting, “Stop vehicle and check power supply” shortly after starting drive, "12v battery very low" immediately before vehicle went completely dead.

While driving on highway I got below messages “Safety Functions are limited radar block warning message” Warning message went away after 15 minutes but then “Stop Vehicle Check Power Supply” warning message appeared and vehicle slowed on highway and stopped after 2 miles. Dealer replaced ICCU and Fuse that controls high voltage (charges 12v battery from main battery).

While driving to work on a 55 MPH road (single lane in each direction) my car faulted with warnings for me to pull over immediately and check my batteries. At the same time, the car's speed dropped quickly to a maximum of 24 MPH, which nearly caused the cars behind me to collide. After pulling over, I was able to limp into a safe area and call a tow truck. The service shop informed me that my Integrated Charge Control Unit and fuse needed to be replaced. I am still waiting for the part to come in (estimated delivery of two months). This issue is not isolated to me; others in social media groups have experienced similar issues with their MY 2022 Ioniq 5. Hyundai is quiet on how widespread the issue is, but given that there is a safety concern when one's auto suddenly slows down while on a highway, I thought it worth reporting.

A few minutes into my drive I heard a loud POP from under the rear seat and then an orange EV system warning message flashed on the display. The vehicle slowed down and I couldn’t maintain speed above about 25mph. Shortly after the first orange alert, the red “Stop vehicle and check power supply” message popped up on the screen along with an emergency warning sound. The vehicle was towed by Hyundai Roadside Assistance to the nearest certified dealer, which took 1 week to diagnose the car. They just confirmed it was an ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit) failure and would require a replacement ICCU and high voltage fuse, which are on backorder with no definitive delivery date.

When using the car in "i-Pedal" (one-pedal driving) mode — the highest brake regen setting — the car can come to a complete stop whenever I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal, without touching the brake. While in this mode, when I fully lift my foot off the accelerator, the rear brake lights illuminate as expected, however, I often slowly reduce pressure on the accelerator pedal to come gently to a stop. I've noticed that it's possible (and often the case) that I can decelerate to a full stop without the brake lights illuminating until I fully release the brake pedal (at the very last moment before I stop). This means that I can be slowing down at a pretty significant rate without any indication to the drivers behind. Conversely, when using the automatic cruise control (that keeps the car a set distance from car ahead), the brake lights seem overly active and flash on and off quite frequently, especially when going down hills (even if there is no deceleration and the car seems to be coasting). Both of these anomalies seem to aggravate other drivers following the car for different reasons, since the vehicle's intent isn't being properly communicated. The lack of expected brake lights when decelerating gently via i-Pedal mode seems potentially dangerous. I would recommend that Hyundai tune their software so that the brake lights illuminate automatically past a set threshold of deceleration/regen braking (above what would be expected if the car were simply coasting), but not

Last night I had an update pushed to my car. I pressed ok. today while backing up i heard a slight pop. my car then said check battery . then second alert said stop vehicle and check power supply. others with this car seem to have this issue as well and is taking a long time to fix and resolve.

Started car. Heard a pop. “Check electric vehicle system” appeared on the screen. Hyundai arranged for the car to be towed to the dealer. This is likely the ICCU+Fuse failure that seems to be happening to many owners of the Ioniq 5.

On 4/24/23, without an prior warning vehicle suddenly became undrivable. Received message: "Stop vehicle and check power supply". Car could lim along < 25mph for short distances. This condition along with indifferent Hyundai roadside assist left me stranded out of state for 5 hours before telling me to find my own way to tow the car. Car is at dealership with a diagnosed ICCU/ICCU fuse issue. To date I am being told that the parts are on back order for 2-3 weeks. Based upon online posts by others with this issue, this is not a realistic expectation. To date, Hyundai has yet to offer substitute transporation, relief from monthly paments, and reimbursement of all expenses incurred as a result of the loss of this vehicle.

I was driving to the dealership due to an unusual message. I was on a main street less than 2 minutes from home when an alert came on the screen that said "critical 12v system" I believe. The screen went off shortly after so I was unable to fully capture it. Within 20' the car stopped itself on the road and shut off. All systems were offline with a total power loss. I could not turn my hazards on, the wheels were locked and I was unable to move the car. I had to stand outside my car to alert oncoming traffic to avoid me. Had I been on the highway when this happened I feel it could have turned deadly quickly, and would have been far worse at night It has been confirmed that the ICCU and high voltage fuse had failed. There are many other owners online speaking of the same problem. The error prior to this reported in the car was "check electric vehicle system." No extended details available, and the online app that shows car codes said "all systems normal" and still does even though the car is entirely dead.

12 volt battery not recharging from the main EV 77kw battery. This makes it so that car systems cannot start that started late March and went into the dealer April 14,2023, after it happened a dozen or so times.

Driving the car on the highway, EV warning light came on dash. Car went into turtle mode for approximately 5 miles. Then the dash board changed to shut car down now. Car would not charge at home. Had to tow it to the dealership. Car has now been at the dealership waiting for parts for 5 weeks. ICCU and a fuse need to be replaced.

Suddenly whilst driving, I heard a soft "pop" and emergency alert sound and message were displayed. Car lost almost all power, but was able to move forward at 12mph to park in a safe place. Car became fully inoperable and required a flatbed tow to dealership. Was diagnosed as an ICCU problem (associated with both 12v battery failure and possible bluetooth related battery drain). Car has been in shop for 6 weeks, waiting on parts. No ETA from Hyundai. If this had occurred 3 minutes later I would have been driving at high speed on the interstate in morning commute traffic. Prior to the "pop" there was no warnings or errors or problems - car worked perfectly.

We've owned the car since new, just over one year. The car was performing well one day and my wife went to her evening work. When she returned to her car around 6pm, the car wouldn't respond to the key fob and the door wouldn't open. She was able to open it with a key, but the car wouldn't start. It's a fully electric car and NOTHING lit up or made a sound. The traction battery had ample charge, but she called Hyundai and the car needed a "jump" from a repair vehicle that was called out, much like an ICE car needs the occasional jump...we assumed an interior light was left on, but the car's app didn't inform either of us of any issue prior to this...the same exact scenario repeated itself about one week later and we had the car jumped again and brought to our dealer, Burns Hyundai in Marlton, NJ. They determined that "nothing was wrong" which made no sense to me. My wife picked up the car and approximately one week later, the exact same thing happened again. This time we dropped the car off at the dealer where it's been for nearly one month. With their customer service lacking and information not forthcoming, I had to go to the dealer myself to get some answers. It seems the computer was telling then some codes were coming through about the battery, but nothing more. It didn't need replacing and they couldn't replicate the problem over a period of weeks...There are MANY online reports of this car having 12V battery and ICCU issues. Our dealer has several Ioniq5s awaiting ICCU

Windshields in the vehicle keep breaking with little to no reason. In 6 months of ownership we have fully replaced 3 windshields. Windshields provide a line of protection for the driver and passengers when the vehicle is being operated. Continuous breaking of a windshield indicates a bigger safety issue with the manufacturing of the car/glass. In one instance there was an audible screeching sound and the glass suddenly cracked for no reason. The windshield has been replaced and safety system recalibrated 2 times in 7 thousand miles ownership with the 3 appointment scheduled for completion in a week.

Pulled out of my driveway and halfway down the street, warning message pops up on display, "Check electric vehicle system". Turned down another street to head back home and receive another warning with audible beeping "Stop vehicle and check power supply". Dealership says its a known issue and to not drive it. Must be safety related or driving it wouldn't be a problem.

On March/17/2023 @24962 miles Integrated Charge Control Unit failure + 30 AMP Fuse. Hyundai Corporate said parts back order May---June/2023 time frame. 3 inch orange circle came up on my dash with red triangle saying PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY! I was two blocks from dealership and with no problems drive to the service advisor where it died in front of them. Service advisor guessed that the pop I heard just before the circle appeared was the fuse and I drove in on the 12volt battery. I am in the Buy Back process with Hyundai Corporate Case#21170992

The car was driving fine, and an error popped up indicating to pull over and check battery. As I am going to pull over a red flashing indicator pops up saying “pull over and check battery”. As I start to pull over the car speed drops to 25 miles per hour and fully dies as I make it to the side of the road.

The car displayed an unforeseen warning and shut down in the middle of traffic around 720am, February 2nd 2023. Shut down vehicle and restarted, battery light came on along with other warnings. Moved vehicle to adjacent parking lot and towed to Hyundai dealership same day and have not been given a definitive answer nor an expected repair time, we’re in the 9th week….still no answers.

The 12v battery died because the electric battery drained it. Ultimately, the electric battery is dead on a 1 year old car and needs replacement. The night before the failure, the car had 145 miles and drained the battery to 83 miles. Prior to that and an ongoing complaint to the dealership from November until this point, the range went from 245 miles per charge to 190 to 219 miles per charge. The 219 was after a system update in January.

Hi! My vehicle went under a recall repair last month. Once completed, the acceleration significantly decreased in the ECO drive train mode. The other modes are working as before. I have been advised that this recall service was required by the NTSB. There are reports of this occurring on credible websites as well. I did report it to Hyundai, they didn't believe me. So, I am reporting this to you. Please fix my car!

After a few minutes of driving, the vehicle presented a warning "Check Electric Vehicle System" and then got really slow. We were able to limp back home, where it is now parked. Hyundai has not had availability to diagnose the issue.

The car SHUT OFF while driving cause of a 12v battery issue. imagine turning onto a major road just for this to happen. Car wouldn't go above 25mph and close to it's death it wouldn't go above 12 then just STOPPED. I couldnt lock it, I couldnt turn it on. I couldnt even move it from drive to park. How is this safe?!

Was in the middle of driving when a loud alert sounded and the dashboard showed the error "Stop vehicle and check power supply". The car otherwise behaved normally. I pulled into a parking log, looked at the only thing I knew how to look at (12v battery), confirmed it was still plugged in, and turned the car back on. The error was still there, but now the car wouldn't go over 26mph. I limped home, called a tow truck to take it to the nearest Hyundai that services electric vehicles, and they told me they'd have to replace the ICCU, which is backordered.

When driving on the interstate the collision avoidance system will falsely trigger around 5% of the times going under overpasses or road signs. The vehicle rapidly decelerates using regenerative braking.

I was driving to my parents house when suddenly a message popped up on my driver screen saying that the electrical system has a problem. Driving a little more to reach my parents house and it starts saying to stop and check power supply. We ended up making it to my parents house and decided that it was unsafe to drive anymore with the error message going off. I called a tow truck to tow it back to our dealership in Fremont. When the tow came, I thought we could drive it on the bed but turns out the vehicle wouldn't start. We jumped the 12V battery and found that we could put it in neutral and somewhat drive it until it drained the external battery used to jump the 12V battery. With the car stuck halfway on the bed, we managed to put it in neutral and pull the car up using the tow's harness. Took it to the dealer and after a few days they said a fuse blew and that something called the ICCU was bad and needed to be replaced.

Charging with level 2 / 240 vac charger stops frequently after 5 months of ownership. Car will not complete charge. Seeing on message boards that this is common problem with this model.

Car is 13 months old, 13,xxx miles. Driving car at 60mph we heard a bang from the rear of the car and lost power almost immediately. Car displayed warning "Check Electrical Vehicle System." We shut it off, then restarted in limp home mode, warning now said "Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply." We then turned off the heater and the car got to 55MPH and I could get the 5 miles back to home. The 12 volt batter no longer charges, the car will not accept a Level 2 charge. IT was towed to Hyundai for repairs. Research suggests that the Integrated Charge Circuit Unit (ICCU) and the accompanying 450V/40 AMP fuse are both bad.

The ioniq 5 has a one pedal driving mode, where the car will come to a complete stop without needing to press the brake pedal, similar to other EV's. In this mode, the gas pedal operates differently then in a conventional car - pressing the pedal approximately 1/3 of the way down represents neutral, where the car coasts. Pressing the pedal less then that - between 1/3 and not pressing it at all, applies braking power to the car, either through regenerative braking or the application of the physical brakes. The issue is, the brake lights on the rear of the vehicle do not light up when the gas pedal is depressed any amount. If you press the gas pedal as lightly as possible, the car will brake a fair amount but there is no warning to driver's behind that you are decelerating. I have twice been almost rear-ended, both times while slowing down in one pedal mode. I suspect the lack of brake lights until you take your foot fully off the gas pedal is a contributing factor. Other Ioniq 5 users have experienced the same issue.

We were driving vehicle on a neighborhood street with a speed limit of 45 miles per hour. When we got a "High voltage fault warning" from the car. I continued to drive about 10 second more and got a second warning. A different series of warnings appeared the last one being "please pull over and check your electrical system". We pulled into a neighborhood street, turned off the car. We decided to try to make it home which was less than 1/2 mile. Once I restarted the car, both messages cycled through the dashboard. Then the car lost the ability to accelerate past 25 miles per hour, no matter how much I stepped on the throttle.

I was doing a 3-point turn in the driveway, and heard a pop sound from under the rear seats. A warning light came on in the dash, after a little bit of time the warning changed into an error that stated pull the car over and do not drive. OBD sensor reported codes P1A90 and P0C17. Car also went into "turtle" mode preventing it from being driven normally. Had it towed to the dealership, but took 2 weeks for them to inspect it. Once they got to it, they quickly determined it was a blown high-voltage fuse, and a fault in the ICCU (integrated charging control unit). Was told there is a national backorder on the ICCU and no ETA on delivery. I was also told I am one of three Ioniq 5s waiting for a new ICCU. I've seen many reports online of many Ioniq 5s having this same issue, and very long wait times for ICCU replacements.

Heard a "pop" sound and the car shortly after said "Check EV system." A few minutes later the car beeped loudly said "Stop vehicle and check power supply." A ODB scanner reported a P1A9096 code. This issue makes the vehicle inoperable with little warning.

The car suddenly cut speed to 20mph while traveling at around 40mph. No matter how hard I pressed on the accelerator, it did not go over over 20mph. The dashboard also said speed limited to 20mph. I had to pull over on the side of the road. Turn off the ignition. Then turned it back on. Then the car resumed to operate as normal. Luckily there were no other cars around so I could safely pull over. This could had been disastrous if it cuts speed again when I’m driving at 65mph on a busy freeway. I feel unsafe operating this vehicle because I’m afraid this will happen again in the near future.

The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated while driving 59 MPH, a warning message advising to stop the vehicle due to low battery was displayed; however, the main battery was fully charged. The instrument panel lights turned off and the vehicle decelerated to 23 MPH. The contact veered to the right lane. While driving to the dealer, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, where the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) assist, and the high voltage fuse were upgraded. Additionally, the battery was replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and remained at the dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact they could not provide vehicle rental assistance because the dealer was unwilling to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 28,000.

When charging the vehicle using a level 2 charger, the charging system will often trip for unknown reasons. This can happen after 1 hour or after many hours of charging. If using specific chargers, the charging will restart after a 10 second delay and oftentimes the car will continue to trip and start recharging multiple times. This can lead to heating up of the charging cord and potentially tripping the main breaker feeding the charger. In the car you can change the charging current from maximum to reduced to minimum. The issue appears to happen mostly on maximum and reduced charge, but has not happened on minimum yet. The issue is reproducible on multiple level 2 chargers and appears to be a common issue across numerous other owners. I have attempted to have the dealership investigate, but they are too new and or ignorant to electric vehicles that they won't take my advice on how to reproduce the issue and thus have not been any help. This issue is not related to DC charging which leads me to believe it's either electrical pin related or an issue with the AC to DC converter on the car. Besides, not getting the full use of the car I paid for, this issue can leave a user stranded if the charger fails to charge the car when expected, but also could be a potential fire hazard with the excessive heating of the charging module and associated charging cords. In the attached photos you can see how often the car charging will trip as I get a notification in my phone app each time it

I got the new update for my car from dealership, didn't know it effect ego mode, it's really lagging any power, need push accelerator all the way down to get any power, danger for left turn, please look into this thanks.

On February 6, 2023 at approximately 9:50 a.m. I was driving my Hyundai Ioniq 5 SEL northbound on CA Highway 135, Santa Maria, when I heard a loud pop coming from my car. Within a few seconds my car lost speed rapidly, from 55 mph to 25 then a second later 22 mph . I tried to accelerate - there was no response - the car maintained the 22 mph. A message appeared on the right side of the dash board in an orange circle “check vehicle system” with a small upside down triangle with letters EV also inside this circle and a “small orange battery” picture showed on the left. I drove the car onto the shoulder of the road and with my hazard lights blinking, drove a half block making a right hand turn onto Miller Street to get off the Highway. I entered CHC Medical Building’s parking lot. Immediately upon entering the parking lot, my car stopped dead, before I had a chance to pull into a parking space. My car was now blocking cars coming in and out of the parking lot. I called Roadside Assistance and reported the above, the time was approximately 10:19 a.m. A tow truck (AAA) was requested by Roadside Assistance. After my conversation with Roadside Assistance, I turned the car on again and got power briefly - I moved the car into a stall space and waited. My car arrived at the Hyundai SLO dealership shortly before noon. The ICCU and fuse failed, and replacements have been ordered but the ETA is unknown Abrupt loss of speed was very unsafe

The car randomly drains the 12v battery. Twice it wouldn’t turn on when I had appointments to go to. The dealership service department has had my car since 10/27/22. They’ve replaced a bunch of parts & can’t fix the issue. I would occasionally get battery discharge warning messages when starting the car.

I was driving on the highway using advanced highway assist and the car became completely unresponsive. I was traveling 75mph on a major highway with a semi behind me and one to my right in the slow lane. The car stopped accelerating and I was unable to resume driving. I was forced to coast to a stop on the side of the highway. I had my daughter with me and were I not able to safely maneuver between the semi trucks, we could have been killed or seriosuly injured in a high speed crash.

The car started turning to the right on the freeway. Suddenly, alarm started going off and acceleration diminished.

Hyundai describes the lack on rear window wiper on this hatchback/suv as handled by the 'air wiper' the include air ducts allow for. The problem is that this 'air wiper' only works if it is actually actively raining AND you are driving at highway speeds. At any other time the rear window is almost always dirty and has no way of being cleaned while driving the car. One would need to pull over to a gas station to clean the window if on the road. Not sure you have a resolution section but the resolution would be to require Hyundai to install a rear wiper with wiper fluid mechanism.

The car randomly stops charging when plugged into either of my Level 2 home Juicebox 40 chargers before it reaches capacity, generally after adding another 4-8% to the battery. It was impossible for me to fully charge the car without plugging it in multiple times. The service people including the EV specialist said they hadn’t heard of this problem, and it was probably due to my charging unit at home. See the attached service and repair invoice . This was not true It is apparently a well-known defect in the Hyundai and Genesis cars using this platform and Hyundai is aware of the issue. it is not a problem with my charger. It happens whether it is hot or cold and generally when it is cooler as we only charge the car at night. Please note the following: 1.Saying this was a unique isolated problem was NOT accurate as this is a problem with many Hyundai and Genesis cars on this battery/charging platform. The Hyundai forums are full of these accounts, and they occur with all different types of chargers. For instance, see: a.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3eh0BTSdng b.https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/wrilke/ioniq_5_stops_charging_randomly_on_level_2_any/ c.https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/charging-issues.42357/ d.https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/charging-problem-automatically-stops-charging-at-home-the-charging-for-ev6-failed-please-check-vehicle.3659/page-12 3.The Ioniq 5 charges fine on level 3 superchargers 4.I spoke to Juicebox and they said other Ioniq 5 owners

I parked the car end visited a store. Upon turning the car back on, the car freaked out and indicated that I needed to "Stop vehicle and check brake system." At the same time, the check engine light illuminated and the car entered limp home mode. CEL codes C164286 & C238001 appeared. The next day I brought the car to a Hyundai dealer who "fixed" the issue by removing a component that is unrelated to the braking and security systems and the car became drivable again for ~300 miles. I then went on two business trips and returned home. I drove the car and it again experienced the same error upon turning the car on. The braking system still functioned, but all electronic features were disabled by the car and braking involved a lot of force on the brake pedal to get the car to stop. For as long as I've owned the car, it has (infrequently) flashed the "Check automatic lane change system" when the car is turned on but the error goes away and doesn't return for weeks to months. The car is now back with the dealer who "fixed" the issue originally but their EV tech isn't always there to look at cars, even though the issue is not necessarily EV related as all cars (should) have brakes. Original incident: 9/8/2022, Second Occurrence: 9/30/2022

When the vehicle is parked and the trunk is opened, some percentage of the time the trunk does not remain in the open position and immediately closes. If the trunk is then opened additional times it generally remains opened. When the trunk unexpectedly closes the trunk object detection does not work and applies a great deal of downforce. When the trunk finally stops trying to close it remains in a locked position between open and close, it does not reopen. Mine and others safety is at risk as the trunk can cause bodily injury resulting from the trunk unintended closing. This issue happens around 50% of the time after the trunk is commanded to open. Two dealerships have been unable to reproduce this issue, but neither has tried multiple times, nor have they driven the vehicle to get the error/bug to reoccur. There are no warning or errors that this issue is going to occur. The only warming occurs three seconds after the trunk fully opens, the trunk closing audible rings. This error has persisted since shortly after first purchasing the vehicle.

When my IONIQ5 slowly starts and stops while the brake pedal engages or disengages, a noise, something like "click," comes from the rear passenger wheel house. Then, the brakes feel somewhat slippery. I think this has something to do with a transition between the regen brake and the traditional brake. The noise comes up every time I drive. Sometimes, I feel very unsafe because I am worried that the brake system fails.

The contact's father owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated that as her father attempted to place the vehicle into reverse(R) while in park(P), the gear shifter failed to operate as needed. As her father exited the vehicle with the gear shifter in the park(P)position, the vehicle accelerated on its own into his garage. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact's father was not injured and a police report was not filed. The garage door and pillar were damaged, as well as, the vehicle's driver-side door. The vehicle was initially towed to the dealer where the vehicle was inspected for the failure. The inspection found no defect with the vehicle and claimed that the failure was a result of human error. The dealer then drove the vehicle to a nearby independent collision center where the vehicle was repaired. Nearly two months after the repair, the contact stated that while in the vehicle with her father, the vehicle failed to move out of the reverse(R) position after backing out of the driveway. The contact stated the gear shifter eventually moved after multiple attempts and restarts. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact later informed her that there was a recall on the vehicle for a shift control unit update(recall number unknown). The contact was instructed to bring the vehicle to the dealer to have the update performed. The contact notified the manufacturer about the failure and was given a case number. The vehicle was repaired. The failur

Involved in a minor collision. Rear ended another car accelerating from a stop light (low speed). Forward collision warning did not activate. Auto braking did not activate. No airbag deployed.

Vehicle parked and unattended. Shifter control unit failed and vehicle rolled away. Vehicle front damage.