2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5 complaints

Level 2 charging fails on warm days if charging above 9kw. I am unable to charge my car on days above 80-90 degrees using my 9.6kw (40 amp) Level 2 charger, as the cars internal will get so hot to the point where it overheats, and force stops charging. Occasionally, I will come back to my car while charging and find it's charging at a much lower speed then it should be. Hyundai claims to have a TSB to fix this issue, but it only neuters the cars charging ability, it doesn't actually fix the ability of the car to charge at 40 or 48 amps on a warm way.

The Hyundai dealer service department has diagnosed my car as having an issue with the ICCU and 12-volt batter. It is now in the shop indefinitely as they don't know when it will be repaired. I had an electrical warning light that didn't go away when I started driving. Less than two miles from my home, the MPH dropped to 20. I managed to drive it home where it failed in my driveway. AAA tried to charge the battery/jump it, to no avail. I had them tow it to the nearest Hyundai Ioniq 5 dealer. I owned the car one year plus one day when this occurred.

Car doesn't charge at stated capacity. Charging consistently fails after a short time adding only a few miles to range. Reduced charging rate still produces failure. Well documented problem across many owners and manufacturer fails to address this major problem with a recall

Charging port overheats when charging at rated amperage on a level 2 charger, causing charging to stop repeatedly. Car does not charge consistently over 32 amps, but it’s advertised as charging at 48amps.

I turned on the car and immediately got a "check electric vehicle system" error, and then shortly after a "stop vehicle and check power supply" error. I located a nearby dealership to diagnose and repair the vehicle, and called a tow truck to take it there. My car is parked in a garage in an alley. After the tow truck arrives in the alley, I turn on the car and get the same errors, and pull into the alley. As I'm pulling into the alley, the car start behaving very eratically, not responding well to the accelerator or steering wheel, and then within a couple minutes the display goes blank, completely black, with some white glitchy pixels periodically. Thankfully, I had already put the car into neutral at this point so the car could be pulled onto the flatbed tow truck. Once the displays stopped working, the car was completely unresponsive. I was unable to lock or unlock doors by using physical buttons on doors or remote buttons on my key. The power trunk lift gate would not open. In the world of cell-phones, they would say my car was "bricked." Completely unresponsive to any input, and the display still black with occasional white glitching flashing across display. The dealership's diagnostics was that there was a malfunction in the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU). They replaced the ICCU and the 12 volt battery and I received the car back from the dealership. Everything seems fully operational again.

While driving, on a busy street in Holyoke MA, a STOP waning appeared on the drivers display indicating an electrical/power problem. I pulled over to side of road and called a tow truck. Car was taken to dealer where they ran diagnostics on the vehicle. Diagnostics showed failed ICCU and bad cell in 12v battery. Replaced ICCU and high voltage fuse.

I received a 'check electric vehicle system' notice on my car.I believe this is related to the 12V/ICCU issue occurring in the I5's.

Car displayed a message "12V battery voltage low. Stop safely" and the 12V baatery does not charge in the vehicle. This is a known issue with this car and is currently being investigated for a vehicle recall.

THE car dash board flashed a message: STOP IMMEDIATELY. CHECK THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I drove 1 mile home, called the dealer, was told to have the car towed to dealer. When the tow truck arrived the car battery was totally dead. The dealer said it was an ICCU problem, and that they had seen it before. Could take weeks, or months, to get a new part!

Level 2 garage charging of car overheats and switches off mid-charge, even with the kWh from the wall charger throttled to Hyundai's minimum setting (60%). What was a minor/occasional problem is now a constant problem in hotter summer temperature, and there is no way to charge the car fully.

Vehicle constantly disconnects from level 2 chargers, when charging interface overheats beyond threshold. This is an ongoing issue, and I have had this symptom on multiple chargers so it is specific to the vehicle. It is a common and known issue with the internal charging control unit (ICCU), yet Hyundai has refused to issue a recall to replace the faulty components. They have issued a TSB which throttles charging speed to minimum when the error occurs, but this is an unacceptable solution due to charging time constraints for many customers. I purchased the car with the understanding that I could charge at 48 amps, not 16, which is where I have to set it to keep from disconnecting constantly. The overheating components could also cause a fire hazard in certain situations.

Was driving the vehicle in a local road and felt sudden drop in vehicle speed. Had to press hard the acceleration pedal to avoid any collision from behind. The vehicle could not gain enough speed in a ~45~60mile speed zone and driven ~2miles slowly to work place. The vehicle had to be towed to a local delearship as they suggested. The warning message was 'Stop vehicle and check Power supply' immediately after and changed to 'Check EV System' when started ~1hr later at the time of towing. The local dealership diagnosed it to be needing a new ICCU board, integrated charge control unit, which is in back order for ~2weeks (vehicle is still at dealership). In hindsight (after hearing recent news on ICCU failure of Ioniq5), the vehicle had a related issue in Feb 2023. At that time, the vehicle electrical system got blacked-out in my garage (it didn't respond to any button pressing with completely dark dashboard screen). It was towed to a local dealership since jump jump start could not fix it. They replaced a 12V battery for which local dealership could not give me convencing reason for the dead 12V battery .

Ioniq 5 continuously fails to complete charging when on level-2 EVSE. Charging port and plug feel extremely warm to the touch, even in cool ambient weather. Multiple UL-listed charge cables yield similar results, while working perfectly well with other EVs.

I have installed a hard wired 240V/48 amp EVSE for charging my vehicle at home. When charging at any current above 32 amps, the charger on the car is apparently overheating and causing charging to stop for approximately 3 minutes and restart charging then stopping again after another 30 seconds or so. Hyundai has issued a "fix" for this which simply throttles the maximum potential amperage delivered, resulting in delayed charging of the main vehicle battery. There are no warnings in the vehicle when this occurs, I just get a notification in the Hyundai app that charging was stopped. My only current workaround is to drop the amperage to 32 amps, which is 33% slower charging than I anticipated when installing the EVSE. Had I known of this issue, I could have opted for a less expensive and easier install method, but Hyundai issues no such warning when you purchase the vehicle.

The Hyundai Ioniq 5 advertises quick charging via level 2 (240v) supporting nearly 10 amps. Hyundai has acknowledged by issuing a TSB this year that the charging port overheats at high amperage and causes charging to cease before the battery reaches the intended state of charge. The TSB addresses the issue by slowing the rate of charge substantially when the port overheats. As a result, owners are unable to "refuel (charge)" the vehicle at the advertised rates. In addition to the overheating charge port posing a potential hazard, the result is that an uninformed owner may not have necessary charge to reach their destination.

Hyundai's connected car service (bluelink) suffered an outage that resulted in driver profiles on many Hyundai vehicles being deleted/reset. No notice was provided and the profiles were not recovered. As a result, the vehicles did not funtion as expected. Driver assist settings were set to default (steering, braking, and acceleration functions included). Hyundai provided instructions on how to set up a new profile in response rather than restoring the customer data to their personally owned hardware (car).

Vehicle charging stops because the port gets overheat while charging on A/C. https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/14g1922/charging_issues/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1 I have this exact same issue. It doesn't happens when you charge on 32amps EVSE. But 40or 48amps is the problem.

Hyundai has admitted that the integrated vehicle charger port overheats when charged at 48A. My vehicle was often stopping charge after only an hour or a few percent, leaving me without enough charge in the morning. Hyundai has offered a software "fix" for the problem which downrates the charging speed when overheating is detected, but this is only a bandaid solution and slows the car's charging speed by half, which was not what was promised when the car was sold.

I was driving and could go no faster than 30 mph. I was very close to a dealership (a few blocks) and was able to make it there before the entire car turned off. An electrical error displayed on the dashboard before it shut down.

Driving the car about at 45mph then I heard a pop sound from the rear of the car. Car displayed warning "Check Electrical Vehicle System." I pull over, shut it off, then restarted it. The "check Electrical Vehicle System" light stills on then an emergency message displayed 'Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply.' When I tried to drive to a safe place I noticed the car would not drive faster than 25mph. If this would have happened in a highway this could have been a safety issue. Dealership confirmed that the Integrated Charge Circuit Unit (ICCU) needs to be replaced.

My partner was driving my car on Tuesday, May 23, 2023 and received a "Check Electrical Vehicle System" warning. Within 30 minutes of receiving that warning, the maximum speed on the car was throttled to 20 mph and shortly after that, the car stopped working entirely. Thankfully, my partner was on a residential street when all this occurred and was able to move to safety; however, had any of this happened in a highway driving scenario, the results could have been catastrophic. My car was towed to a dealership that same evening and it has been with the service department since then. The two parts on backorder they are waiting on on the ICCU Assembly and a High Voltage Fuse. Upon searching for other Hyundai IONIQ 5 owners with similar issues, various internet forums are filled with reports of similar things happening. At this point, I have been told this part is on backorder for potentially up to 6-9 months and after repeated calls with the dealership and the corporate office, Hyundai has not acknowledged the extent of this issue, the potential safety concerns, nor offered any relief for being without my, basically brand new, car for the remainder of this year.

The vehicle completely lost power and there was 207 miles left to the charge. The message displayed on the driver's screen read "12V battery voltage low. Stop safely" I had no other choice than to stop since the car suddenly had zero power. The car was towed to Hyundai dealership on 2/15/23 and I have yet to have the vehicle repaired. Hyundai keeps informing me that the part is on order and delayed. I have been waiting a long time for a defective vehicle.

I was driving about 30 mph on a secondary road when the vehicle suddenly lost power and speed and a large batter warning light came on on the dash. I restarted the vehicle, and the same thing happened again. We had the car taken to Peder Hyndai in Poway, CA. 858-486-6560. They said that there was a fault with the "battery control module", and that they would have to order parts. They said they had "at least two" other ionic 5s with the same problem. We've been driving a loaner for 1 mo, and still the part hasn't arrived. This was the third trip that day, and there were no problems with the earlier trips. This had never happened before. The car did not make any unusual sound that sticks in my mind during the episode.

On Apr 18, 2023, My vehicle had a complete electrical system failure while driving on the local street. When the failure occurred, a warning message along with loud audible beeps was displayed suddenly indicating the vehicle was experiencing an Electrical System failure, and we must be pulled over immediately without delay due to safety concerns. The system completely failed shortly after, and the vehicle became unresponsive and inoperable. This post a major safety risk to those inside the vehicle, other vehicles, and pedestrians nearby if the vehicle became inoperable in the middle of traffic. The vehicle was towed to the dealership (Stevens Creek Hyundai, Santa Clara, California) the following day for inspection. The inspection report indicated a failure in the ICCU fuse unit and the 12V battery. This issue falls into the power train defect and repair will be covered under the manufacturer's warranty. The vehicle has been with the dealership for 6 weeks to date (Jun 20) without a repair ETA. The vehicle was purchased brand new in Mar 2022. It was only 13 months new, with 8090 miles at the time of incident. The work order is attached.

On 24 May 2023, I heard a "pop" sound when starting my Ioniq5 and immediately received warnings directing me to stop the vehicle and check the battery system. The car was taken to the dealer on the same day and is still out of service. The dealer notified me that the problem is due to an "ICCU" issue and that parts are backordered and they do not have an estimated date for the receipt of parts or repair.

I received a warning on my dashboard while driving "Check electric vehicle system". A few minutes later I received the message "Stop vehicle and check power supply". My car would not go faster than 20 MPH, and I had it towed to the dealership. They said it was an ICCU issue and the part was on nationwide backorder. My car has been at the dealership for 41 days.

Failed EV drive system. Error messages of electrical problems and shortly went complete dead. 12 volt battery was dead and won't charge. Car was towed to Ideal Hyundai in Fredrick MD. Dealer reported failed ICCU and parts for repair are on back order. Fortunately the failure occurred when pulling away from parking. If I had been at highway speed it could have been disastrous.

This is an electric vehicle that features “iPedal” driving, what Hyundai refers to as one-pedal driving. The main safety issue is that when you decelerate using one pedal, which is a fairly aggressive deceleration, the brake lights do not come on unless you lift your foot entirely from the accelerator or apply the brake pedal (which one would rarely do in iPedal mode). Hyundai needs to rethink their concept of operations for how their brake lights should operate. People are at risk of getting rear-ended. I didn’t realize this was how the vehicle operated until I was almost rear-ended today. Please push them to fix this issue.

- EV Fuse blown My Hyundai Ioniq5 EV electrical system stopped function on March 25th, 9 month after we purchased this EV, on a busy highway. It took Hyundai dealer 8 weeks to fix this issue. Due to the fix report, some fuse was blown. - Automatic Emergency Braking engaged On Jun 16th, when driving on HW 90 west bound, road was clean. No vehicle in front of me. The "Automatic Emergency Braking " was engaged. This could be very dangerous if the highway was busy.

Car literally DIED while driving. Went from normal speed to 12mph to 6mph to dead. ICCU failure.

Accelerator failed to engage on two occasions. 5/18/2023: First while driving on highway at 70MPH. Car slowed down gradually and I pulled onto shoulder. 5/19/2023: Again the next day driving 35 MPH. Pulled off road onto private driveway. On both occasions I turned car off and back on and it resumed normally. Fortunately no accident or traffic problem. I brought car to the dealer (Country Hyundai Northampton) to be checked and they could not find a problem.

The power gave out on the car and Hyundai refuses to fix it. They said a part needs to ship over and they give very little updates.

Called an ICCU failure. It's the control unit that charges the 12V battery from the high voltage battery. The unit fails blowing the high voltage fuse. Failure of this component causes the vehicle to all but shut down, even while driving. This is known by Hyundai. Others have said this happens at about 12 months and 10,000 miles. My car was 53/54weeks old and had 9,300 miles. This failure of this part may have also caused my AC to stop working. As pressure sensor on the 12V system that was working before the component failed was not working when I received the car back, resulting in another lengthy repair. I had about 0.7 miles warning, a yellow check EV system lit up, then the whole dash lit up saying to pull over immediately. The ICCU was replaced by Hyundai with the "2023 spec" version.

Charging randomly stops before completion

Was driving on the highway and got a warning to check electric system, then it asked to pull over due to battery failure. The car's 12V battery died and it wouldn't turn on. Had AAA replace battery, and then drove it to the dealership. The power gave out close to the service center and the car moved really slowly. It took the service center to diagnose the issue as ICCU failure. It's been 4 weeks and there is no ETA on the part.

Started vehicle and heard a loud pop with immediate amber warning to check electrical system with 12 volt battery and EV electrical system warning lights illuminated. While driving to dealerships, vehicle slowed abruptly at Highway speed and warning message said to stop vehicle immediately. Towed to dealership with probable bad integrated charging control unit and high voltage fuse blown. Seems to be an issue with many ioniq 5s. Recall this vehicle!

The problem is in "1-pedal" mode (which Hyundai calls "i-pedal"). This is an extremely convenient mode of driving in normal operation, yielding very smooth, passenger-friendly (acceleration and) deceleration by avoiding use of the brake pedals altogether. The problem is that the 2022 Ioniq 5 will *never* activate the brake lights ("stop lamps") when decelerating in i-pedal mode, as long as I apply any pressure at all on the accelerator pedal. This gives drivers behind me no notice that I am slowing down until I'm almost completely stopped. This seems to meet current DOT standards, but ONLY because I'm not using the brakes to decelerate. If I slow down at a similar rate using brakes, the brakes lights do turn on. I recently submitted a similar complaint to Hyundai: Consumer Affairs Case#: 21492175. For a more thorough explanation & demonstration, see this video from the Technology Connections channel on YouTube — he has exactly the same model as me (and I independently verified the behavior on my car with a driver following me): https://youtu.be/U0YW7x9U5TQ My complaint is to the DOT as much as to Hyundai: safety will be improved if the illumination of brake lights ("stop lamps") is required no matter what mechanism the driver is using to slow down, for all manufacturers and models (though this will likely only apply to Electric Vehicles or hybrids). I hope this can be made retroactive, which shouldn't be a great burden as I expect this could be implemented with a software upg

This is a rampant problem with my car as I have seen hundreds of the same reports throughout the many Ioniq 5 forums I am on. 4/22/23 my car died leaving me stranded. Apparently, the early revisions of the car I bought in March 2022 has a problem where the ICCU and inline fuse will go out over time leaving the car useless and frankly a hazard as I had to immediately pull over when the error message popped up. The issue IMHO should be a recall at this point. It has been sitting at a dealership awaiting the back ordered parts and Hyundai corporate denies that this is an ongoing problem even though I can see all the evidence widespread on the internet. Currently in the process of contacting a lawyer about a lemon law/class action lawsuit.

The 12-volt battery that controls everything in the car stopped being recharged by the 800volt battery, eventually causing the car to suddenly lose power and slow to 22 mph on the freeway. I was able to pull over 3 lanes and exit what was fortunately an uncrowded freeway. The car would not exceed 22 mph and soon stopped altogether and could not be moved. The main 800volt battery was at 56% charge, as the 12-volt battery went to 0%. The car was towed to the dealer. After inspection the dealer has confirmed that the ICCU system has failed and must be replaced, with a long back order and still no delivery date after 5 weeks. There were warning messages that appeared before the vehicle lost power, saying to check the battery electrical system. There should have been a warning that said “stop driving immediately as the electrical system is failing, and the car may stop even though the main battery is still well charged.”

Vehicle will not charge at advertised speeds. Vehicle notifies me via phone app notification that “vehicle is not charging. Please try again. Ensure the vehicle infusions is off and gear shift is in park.” The car only charges if manually adjusted in settings to charge at minimum charging speed. The car used to charge at adversities speed and no longer does ever.

The IONIQ 5, like other electric vehicles, uses regenerative breaking. Regenerative breaking can be set at level 1, 2, 3, or i-pedal mode. This determines the strength in which the car will engage regenerative breaking automatically when the position of the accelerator petal is raised above the current speed. i-pedal mode is full one-pedal driving, allowing the driver to slow to a stop without use of the break pedal at all. At level 2, 3, or i-pedal, the car is capable of decelerating at a significant rate even when the driver is still pressing down on the pedal. For example, if you consider it as a percentage and take "foot off the pedal" as 0%, and "pedal pressed as far as it can go" as 100%, a driver could be traveling at 70 mph on the highway, with the pedal pressed at around 60%. The driver could then lift the pedal to only 30%, and the regenerative breaking would then slow the car to, say, 30 mph. This deceleration can be very strong when set to a high regen level. However, the break lights do not illuminate unless the driver takes their foot completely off of the accelerator. In i-pedal mode especially, it is possible to decelerate from highway speed to a near stop in only a matter of seconds, without the break lights ever activating. Other EV manufacturers illuminate the break lights based on the cars measured deceleration when using regenerative breaking, and do not have this issue. If the driver has driven other EVs in the past and prefers the one pedal driving mode

This vehicle can use regenerative braking to slow fully to a stop. However, using regen to slow sharply does not activate the brake lights unless the accelerator pedal is fully released. This means that you can slow at a significant rate without alerting vehicles behind you that you are slowing. Vehicle should activate brake lights when slowing beyond a specific rate. This has been the case since vehicle delivery (3/28/22) and continues today. Occurs at all speeds.

Brake lights during I-Pedal or 1 Pedal driving modes. When under "I-Pedal" or 1 pedal driving mode brake lights do not engage unless foot is fully off the accelerator pedal. This is concerning as the vehicle can brake rather agressively with no indicition to the drivers behind you. The brake lights should illuminate when a sufficient amount of braking is occuring, not just when the accelerator is fully disengaged.

Rear brake lights do not properly come on in certain driving modes (i-pedal). The lights will only turn on if you completely release the accelerator pedal. The problem is, that you can significantly reduce your speed down to a stop without ever fully releasing the accelerator all the way.

The vehicle does not illuminate the brake lights when slowing down in ipedal and level 3 regen modes without actually pressing down the brake pedal.

Electrical system not working. The vehicle does not charge. The 12Volt battery is completely dead and vehicle does not start. Before the vehicle gone offline - it was reporting Electrical System is not charging and dead immediately. I towed the vehicle to Route 1 South, South Brunswick, NJ Hyundai Dealership on May 19th, and still in repairs. The main battery pack was showing 90% charge. The vehicle reported problem in the middle of the driving and completely slowed down to below 25Miles before and came to grinding halt. Jumpstarting the vehicle did not help.

This vehicle's brake lights do not come on when using regenerative braking. The regenerative braking can bring this car to a complete stop fairly quickly and the brake lights should come on. Several near misses of people almost rear-ending me, and a few got mad enough that I feared a road rage incident. This after only owning the car for 2 weeks.

The brake lights do not come on when slowing down in i-Pedal mode unless you completely let go of the accelerator, representing a massive safety concern. The drivers behind you do not know you are slowing down even though your deceleration is quite sharp

Brake lights do not illuminate in 1 pedal driving unless accelerator pedal is fully released. I often bring the car to a complete stop with the brake lights never illuminating until I'm nearly stopped, around 5 mph or less. I often see people ride up behind me quickly and have to slam on their brakes as they don't realize I'm slowing down so rapidly. This can be repeated at any time. I have not spoken to a dealer or the manufacturer about this, nor has it been inspected by any party. There are no warning lights, this seems to be normal behavior, many others have reported on this issue as well. This has been happening since I got the car.

The vehicle does not charge. After multiple attempts by the dealer to fix the issues, the vehicle is still in the shop. I am told it now charges on level 3 chargers (super chargers not available widely) only and does not charge on level 1 and 2. Various parts have been replaced but Hyundai corporate and the dealer has not been able to identify the issue or fix the problem after 45 days. I have filed a complaint with Hyundai and requested that the company buyback the vehicle. No response from Hyundai. I do not feel safe driving the vehicle. The vehicle is in repair with Lia Hyudai of Hartford, CT. Thank you, Bhavani 917-605-9772