DT: THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR WAS COMPLETELY LOCKED, THE REMOTE KEY PAD OR KEYS DID NOT WORK. HAD USED THE REMOTE TO UNLOCK DOORS THE SAME AS ALWAYS. CONTACTED MANUFACTURER, WHO SAID TO CONTACT THE DEALER. BUT DEALER SAID NEVER HEARD OF IT. CONSUMER DID NOT WANT TO PAY THE DEALER TO FIX IT. FOUND A FORUM ONLINE WHERE OTHER PEOPLE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. THIS HAPPENED JULY 29, 2005. *AK
1998 Ford Explorer Sport complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 1998 record →
DRIVER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN. APPEARS TO BE STUCK IN THE LOCK POSITION. HAVE READ NUMEROUS WEBSITES THAT IT IS A DEFECTIVE SPRING FROM ACE LOCK CO.
ALWAYS IN THE SUMMER AND SOMETIMES DURING THE FALL/WINTER, THE AIR FLOW SENSOR MAKES A LOUD, HUMMING NOISE AND EVENTUALLY THE CAR SOMETIMES SHUTS OFF BECAUSE OF THIS.
I OWN A 1998 FORD EXPLORER. IT ONLY HAS 23,000 MILES ON IT. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT TROUBLE WITH IT. THE MOST RECENT PROBLEMS ARE I HEAR A LOUD NOISE IN THE MOTOR AREA WHEN I USE THE AIR CONDITIONER, I ALSO CANNOT GET THE DRIVER WINDOW DOWN UNLESS I MESS WITH IT ALONG TIME, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE HOOD BRACKETS 2 TIMES, AND THEY NEED REPLACED AGAIN. THE BACK WINDSHIELD WIPER DONT CLEAN THE WINDOW WELL ENOUGH AND IT GETS STUCK, SO I HAVE TO GET OUT AND FIX IT. I ALSO KEEP GETTING THE 'DOOR AJAR' LIGHT ON AT TIMES WHEN THE DOORS ARE ALL CLOSED. I THINK THERE ARE SOME ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH MY EXPLORER. I DONT HAVE THE WARRANTY ANYMORE SO THEY WANT ME TO PAY FOR EVERYTHING BECAUSE THEY SAID ALL FORD COMPANIES ARE INDEPENDENT. IF ANYTHING HAPPENS TO ME OR MY FAMILY WE'LL SEE HOW INDEPENDENT THEY ARE. I THINK ALL EXPLORERS NEED TO BE RE-CHECKED. THEY WERE MADE TOO HASTY OR SOMETHING.
DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, OF MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER, COULD NOT BE OPENED (FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLES). ATTEMPTED TO HAVE DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY REPLACED, AS BROKEN SPRING WAS FOUND PROTRUDING FROM DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY AREA <DRIVERS SIDE>. DEALERSHIP INCORRECTLY REPLACED INSIDE DOOR HANDLE AND NOW DRIVERS SIDE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED (BUT CAN NOW BE OPENED OR CLOSED). DUE TO DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY PROBLEMS WITH CANADIAN FORD VEHICLES, I FEAR WE NOW HAVE A SERIOUS SECURITY & SAFETY ISSUE WITH OUR 1998 FORD EXPLORER. DEALERSHIP REFUSES TO REPAIR UNLESS WE BASICALLY AGREE TO REPLACE ALL INTERNAL PARTS OF DOOR <INCLUDING SEAT BELT?>. THE ESTIMATED REPAIR COST (PARTS & LABOR) IS IN EXCESS OF $500.
TIMING BELT AND INTAKE MANIFOLD WHICH FORD SAYS IT WILL NOT COVER AND ALSO MY WARRENTY COMPANY, I HAD TO PAY 1900.00 TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. I HAVE A 98 FORD EXPLORER WITH 65,400 MILES
AFTER VEHICLE WAS PARKED FOR SIX HOURS THE OWNER WAS AWAKENED BY SOME NEIGHBORS AND INFORMED THAT VEHICLE WAS ON FIRE. WHICH WAS COMING OUT OF THE FENDER WELL AND CONSUMED THE ENTIRE VEHICLE. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS CALLED TO THE SCENEAND DETERMINED THAT CRUISE CONTROL WAS CAUSE OF THE FIRE. *AK
MY CAR HYPER-ACCELERATES AT RANDOM EVEN WHEN THE BRAKE IS ON IT HAS CAUSED 2 ACCIDENTS RESULTING IN PROPERTY DAMAGE ONE RECENT WHICH THE INJURY RESULTS ARE PENDING. I AM FEARFUL THAT THE CAR WILL NOT STOP AND SOMEONE WILL BE SERIOUSLY INJURED. I HAVE HAD IT TO THE DEALERSHIP WROTE TO THE MANUFACTURER BUT TO NO AVAIL. I CANNOT AFFORD ANOTHER CAR OR EVEN A TRADE IN. I JUST PUT NEW BRAKES ON THE CAR AND THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS. THE DATE BELOW IS FOR THE MOST RECENT ACCIDENT. THE CAR HAS DONE THIS MANY TIMES BUT ONLY TWICE RESULTING IN A CRASH. *JB
I HAVE A 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORTS THAT CAUGHT ON FIRE WHILE THE ENGINE WAS OFF AND PARKED IN MY GARAGE. I PARKED THE CAR AT AROUND 7:00 PM AND AROUND AFTER 10:00 PM HEARD A LOUD EXPLOTION IN THE GARAGE. MY FAMILY WAS ALREADY IN BED AND I WAS WATCHING TV. WHEN I OPEN THE ACCESS DOOR TO THE GARAGE THE FRONT PART OF THE EXPLORER WAS IN FLAMES. WE CALLED 911 AND THE FIRE DEPARTMENT CAME AND PUT OUT THE FIRE, BUT THE CAR IS RUINED. MY SECOND CAR IS DAMAGED AND MY GARAGE IS ALSO DAMAGED. NO ONE WAS HURT BECAUSE WE GOT OUT OF THE HOUSE ON TIME.*AK
DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK WITH KEY, REMOTE, KEY PAD ENTRY OR WITH DOOR HANDLE INSIDE. APPARENTLY, THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH 1998 EXPLORER SPORT.*AK
I TOOK MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TO MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP BECAUSE MY BRAKE LIGHTS WERE NOT WORKING (I CAN ONLY GUESS HOW LONG THEY WERE NOT OPERATING). AFTER DOING A DIAGNOSTIC THEY DETERMINED I HAD TO REPLACE MY (FORGIVE ME, AS I AM NOT MECHANICAL, BUT IT IS ALL ON MY RECEIPT) CRUISE CONTROL HARNESS AS THE COMPONENT HAD COMPLETELY MELTED. MY CRUISE CONTROL HAD STOPPED WORKING A COUPLE OF MONTHS EARLIER, BUT I HAD NOT BOTHERED TO FIX IT. THE CRUISE CONTROL HAD GOTTEN SO HOT THAT IT BURNED A HOLE THROUGH MY MASTER CYLINDER SO THAT IT ALSO NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I AM NOTIFYING YOU BECAUSE I FEEL MY AND MY FAMILY'S SAFETY WERE JEOPARDIZED IN THREE WAYS: INOPERABLE BRAKE LIGHTS, THE FIRE HAZARD OF THE CRUISE CONTROL, AND CONSEQUENTLY POOR BRAKES.*AK
REAR WIPER MOTOR HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE BY DEALER UNDER WARRANTY. THIS IS KNOWN FAULTY DESIGN. WIPER JAMS AND HAS TO BE PHYSICALLY ROCKED TO UNJAM. PROBLEM IS YOU COULD BE DRIVING IN RAINSTORM & COULD NOT USE WIPER AT THAT CRITICAL TIME. THIS VEHICLE IS PAST WARRANTY NOW.*AK
PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT ON 3/29/05 WHILE DRIVING MY 1998 FORD EXPEDITION XLT THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT CAME ON AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS CAME ON AND THE RUNNING BOARD LIGHTS CAME ON. I PULLED OVER AND PARKED THE VEHICLE AND CHECKED ALL DOORS, ALL DOOR WERE CLOSED PROPERLY. THE LIGHTS REMAINED ON. I TURNED THE VEHICLE OFF AND REMOVED THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AND SHUT THE DOOR AND INTERIOR LIGHTS AND RUNNING BOARD LIGHTS REMAINED ON. I HAD TO REMOVE THE FUSE TO MAKE LIGHTS GO OUT, BUT WHEN I AM DRIVING I HAVE NO INTERIOR LIGHTS AND I CANNOT PUT DOWN WINDOWS
SPEED CONTROL SWITCH FAILED ON MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER, RESULTING IN CRUISE CONTROL FAILURE, MAJOR ELECTRICAL SHORT CIRCUIT, BLOWN 20A FUSE, NO TAIL LIGHTS, LEAKING BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER THRU FAULTY SWITCH, AND WIRES, SWITCH AND CONNECTOR BURNED APPROXIMATLY SIX INCHES BACK FROM SWITCH. SWITCH WAS BURNED, ALSO. A NEW SWITCH WAS PUT ON THE VEHICLE, ALONG WITH A PIGTAIL (WIRES & CONNECTOR), THE BRAKE SYSTEM HAD TO BE BLED AND A NEW FUSE INSTALLED. AT THAT TIME, I KNEW NOTHING OF A DEFECT. FORD SAID NOTHING OF THE PROBLEM. THE REPAIR WAS MADE 1/14/05. TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEGE, THE DEFECT IS NOT CORRECTED, BUT ONLY REPAIRED AS IT WAS ORIGINALLY EQUIPPED. WHEN I HEARD ABOUT THE RECALL, IT DID NOT INCLUDE MY 1998, EXPLORER, SPORT. I HAVE SAVED THE OLD SWITCH. THE NEW SWITCH NUMBER IS SW-5945, F3TZ-9F924-BB. *AK
1998 FORD EXPLORER CAUGHT FIRE AT 4:30 AM,UNDER THE HOOD ENGULFED IN FLAMES CALLED FIRE DEPT THEY CAME AND PUT FIRE OUT. THE WHOLE ENTIRE MOTOR, AND FRONT OF TRUCK RUINED,NOT DRIVABLE. I FILED A CLAIM WITH FORD THE DAY AFTER FIRE,THEY STATED THAT THEY WERE LIABLE BECAUSE THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON 1998 EXPLORERS. *JB
THE DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM OF MY DRIVER SIDE DOOR OF MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT IS BROKEN. A SMALL METAL PIN BROKE WHICH MAKES THIS LOCKING MECHANISM NOT WORK. SO SOMETIMES I HAVE TO CLIMB THROUGH TO THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET OUT IF MY VARIOUS TECHNIQUES DO NOT WORK TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR. I BELIEVE WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT THE METAL PIN WILL EVENTUALLY CORROD AND BREAK SO I HAVE NOT YET FIXED IT DUE TO THE FACT THAT I HAVE NO FAITH IN A PRODUCT THAT WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK AGAIN. I THOUGHT I WAS WAS JUST HAVING THIS PROBLEM UNTIL I VISITED THIS MESSAGE BOARD (HTTP://WWW.OFFROADEXCHANGE.COM/MODFORUMS/INDEX.PHP?BOARD=9;ACTION=DISPLAY;THREADID=1749;START=25). I REALLY HOPE YOU INVESTAGATE THIS PROBLEM BEFORE SOMEBODY IS IN A LIFE OR DEATH SITUATION AND TRAPPED IN THEIR EXPLORER BECAUSE THE METAL PIN OF THE LOCKING MECHANISM BROKE. THANK YOU. *AK
DOOR LOCK WAS NOT WORKING WHEN IT WAS COLD. NOW, DOOR LOCK ON DRIVER'S SIDE IS COMPLETELY OUT, THE KEY JUST TURNS IN THE LOCK AND DOES NOT WORK. THE OTHER LOCKS (PASSENGER AND BACK WINDOW) DO NOT WORK EITHER. YOU HAVE TO TURN THE KEY MANY TIMES BEFORE LOCK WORKS, THEN YOU HAVE TO EITHER CRAWL OVER THE SEATS OR PRESS THE UNLOCK BUTTON SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE LOCK ENGAGES. I WAS OUTSIDE IN THE RAIN FOR AT LEAST 5 MINUTES TRYING TO GET THE LOCK TO WORK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF CAR BECAUSE DRIVER'S SIDE IS BROKEN. ON GOING PROBLEM FOR AT LEAST 3 MONTHS.*JB
NEITHER AIR BAG DEPLOYED AFTER A HEAD-ON COLLISION. *AK
FIRE UNDER THE HOOD OF A 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN PARKED AND THE IGNITION TURNED OFF FOR OVER 4 HOURS. THE VEHICLE WAS TOTALED AND IT WAS CONCLUDED THAT THE FIRE BEGAN AS THE RESULT OF AN ELECTRICAL SHORT UNDER THE HOOD.*AK
INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET HAS FAILED ON TWO DIFFERENT OCCASIONS ON MY VEHICLE. THIS PART WAS REPLACED BECAUSE IT WAS LEAKING ON BOTH OCCASIONS. THIS LEAKAGE AND PROBLEM IS DANGEROUS TO THE VEHICLE AND THE OCCUPANTS OF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS PART OF THE FUEL SYSTEM AND SHOULD NOT BE TAKEN LIGHTLY.*AK
CANNOT OPEN DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. AUTOMATIC DOOR OPENER DOES NOT WORK, DOOR HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN DOOR, KEY DOES NOT OPEN DOOR. THE ONLY WAY TO EXIT THE CAR IS TO CRAWL OVER THE FRONT SEAT DIVIDER AND EXIT THROUGH THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT DOOR. THE DRIVER IS LITERALLY TRAPPED IN THE CAR. *AK
CD'S GET VERY HOT. DISPLAY HAS FAILED. AM BAND IS ALL STATIC. *NM
THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCK FAILED. THE CONSUMER HAD TO CLIMB OVER TO THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET OUT. THE LOCKING MECHANISM ON THE DOOR WAS DEFECTIVE. *JB
DRIVER SIDE POWER DOOR LOCK DOES NOT UNLOCK EITHER WITH THE KEY OR LOCK BUTTON. IT TAKES MANY ATTEMPTS TO GET THE DOOR UNLOCKED LEAVING ME NO CHOICE BUT TO EXIT OUT OF THE PASSENGER SIDE. PULLING THE DOOR HANDLE DOES NOT HELP EITHER. I HAVE A FRIEND THAT HAS THE SAME PROBLEM AND I FOUND HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE ALL OVER THE INTERNET MESSAGE BOARDS COMPLAINING OF THE SAME ISSUE. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!!! *NM
DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK WITH OR WITHOUT KEY - WILL NOT UNLOCK OR OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE. THE PROBLEM IS APPARENTLY WIDE SPREAD IN THIS VEHICLE AND REQUIRES A $150 LOCK ASSEMBLY TO REPLACE A FAULTY .50 CENT SPRING. FORD NEEDS TO RECALL AND FIX.*AK
THE DRIVERS DOOR WILL NOT OPEN WITH THE KEY LOCK OR THE REMOTE, FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. *JB *TC
DRIVER'SW SIDE DOOR LOCK WILL NOT UNLOCK. TRIED HOLDING THE HANDLE AND PRESSING UNLOCK BUTTONS ON THE DOOR AND KEYLESS REMOTE. DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS A DANGER IN AN EMERGENCY. AFTER READING THE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ISSUE, I NOTICED THAT THERE HAS NOT BEEN ANY RECALLS TO CORRECT THIS DEFECT. WHY NOT??? SEEMS THAT MANY DRIVERS OF THIS VEHICLE ARE HAVING THIS SAME PROBLEM.*AK
CONSUMER WAS UNABLE TO EXIT OR ENTER THE VEHICLE IN THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. DEALER WAS NOTIFIED. *AK
MY HUSBAND, NINE YEAR OLD NEPHEW AND I WERE DRIVING BACK FROM OUR SUMMER VACATION. THE NIGHT BEFORE OUR ACTUAL ACCIDENT, OUR FRONT RIGHT TIRE HAD TREAD SEPARATION. MY HUSBAND PUT THE SPARE ON AND WE WENT ON TO OUR HOTEL. THE NEXT DAY OUR LEFT REAR TIRE HAD TREAD SEPARATION AND FORCED MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT ONTO THE MEDIAN. SOMEWHERE DURING THAT OUR RIGHT REAR TIRE BLEW OUT. THEN WE ROLLED OVER THREE TIMES. WE WERE TRAVELING THE SPEED LIMIT AT 70 MPH. WE STRONGLY FEEL THAT THE DUNLOP TIRES WERE THE CAUSE OF THIS ACCIDENT. MY EXPLORER WAS A TOTAL LOSS. DESPITE THE EVENTS, MY HUSBAND NEPHEW AND I WALKED AWAY WITH ONLY SCRATCHES AND MINOR CUTS. I THANK FORD FOR THAT. I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO MENTION THAT ABOUT A YEAR AGO I HAD TO REPLACE ONE OF THE DUNLOP TIRES FOR TREAD SEPARATION. I RECEIVED ANOTHER TIRE. THAT TIRE WHICH WAS ON THE FRONT LEFT AND THE SPARE (WHICH WAS A FIRESTONE) DID NOT GIVE OUT BUT BASICALLY THE FOUR DUNLOP TIRES THAT I PURCHASED, I STRONGLY FEEL, WERE DEFECTIVE. *JB
WHILE DRIVING AT 55 MPH CONSUMER FELT VIBRATION IN THE GAS PEDAL. THE GAS PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR AND VEHICLE ACCELERATED TO NEAR 100 MPH. CONSUMER HAD TO VEER OFF THE ROAD, AND PUT THE GEAR SHIFT INTO PARK TO STOP THE VEHICLE. THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS VEHICLE BUT CONSUMER'S VEHICLE WAS NOT A PART OF THE RECALL DUE TO VIN. *AK
THE LIGHTS WENT OUT ON THE RADIO DISPLAY FOR MY EXPLORER. THE UNIT STILL PLAYED HOWEVER YOU COULDN'T SEE WHAT TRACK, THE VOLUME, OR WHAT RADIO STATION IT WAS CURRENTLY ON. I THOUGHT THIS WOULD BE A SIMPLE FUSE FIX BUT WAS TOLD THAT THE WHOLE RADIO HAD TO BE REPLACED FOR A COST OF $600. LUCKY ME I HAVE THE PREMIUM STEREO SO IT COSTS MORE. I HAVE SPOKEN WITH PEOPLE WHO ALL HAVE THE 98 EXPLORER SPORT AND THIS ISSUE WAS THE SAME FOR EVERY SINGLE PERSON. *AK
1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT DRIVER'S SEAT BACK LEVER WAS ALWAYS BEING BENT DOWN AS DRIVER WOULD EXIT SUV, CAUSING HANDLE TO JAM AGAINST SEAT FRAME. DRIVER WOULD STRAIGHTEN HANDLE IN ORDER TO CHANGE POSITION OF SEAT BACK FROM ONE DRIVER TO ANOTHER. UPON PUSHING HANDLE BACK UP INTO ORIGINAL POSITION, IT SNAPPED, BREAKING OFF AT CONNECTION POINT, JUST ABOVE TWO RIVETS ON CAM OF THE SEAT BACK ASSEMBLY. SEAT WAS IN THE MOST FORWARD UP POSITION (ACROSS DRIVERS SEAT) WHILE ACCESSING SPACE BEHIND DRIVERS SEAT, SPORT MODEL IS A 2-DOOR. HAD TO USE SCREWDRIVER AS A LEVER TO RETURN SEAT BACK TO UPRIGHT POSITION. IF THIS HAD HAPPEN TO MY WIFE (OR OTHER PERSON NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED) SHE/THEY WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO RETURN SEAT BACK TO ITS NORMAL POSITION, AND THEREFORE WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO ACCESS SEAT OR DRIVE VEHICLE. THIS COULD VERY WELL CONSTITUTE A SAFETY HAZARD FOR DRIVERS THAT ARE UNABLE TO RETURN SEAT BACK TO PROPER DRIVING POSITION WHEN THIS LEVER BREAKS OFF. PART NUMBER 7862649-AAA, SEAT BACK ASSEMBLY, IS NOT AVAILABLE THOUGHT EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH ON-LINE. WHILE GOING THROUGH SCRAP YARDS LOOKING FOR LEVER ASSEMBLY, FOUND 2 OTHER DRIVER SEAT BACK LEVERS BROKEN IN SIMILAR FASHION. HAVE HAD RECALL NUMBER 03V281000 ALREADY SERVICE ON THIS VEHICLE IN FALL 2003. *AK
EVER SINCE I BOUGHT MY VEHICLE THE REAR END SAGS LOWER THAN SHOULD BE EXPECTED ON MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT. I SAID SOMETHING TO THE DEALERSHIP BEFORE PURCHASING IT SO THEY COULD TAKE A LOOK AT THE REAR LEAF SPRINGS AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THERE WASN'T ANYTHING WRONG. IT IS NOW A YEAR LATER AND AND THE REAR END OF MY EXPLORER HAS STARTED SITTIND LOWER EVERY MONTH I'VE HAD IT, AND I HAVE ALSO REPLACED MY SHCKS THREE TIMES SINCE I HAVE HAD FOR 1YEAR. I WAS WONDERING IF THERE WERE ANY OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS AND IF THERE WAS ANYTHING THAT COULD BE DONE ABOUT IT.*AK
I HAVE A 98 FORD EXPLORER SPORT. THE RADIO WORKS BUT DOES NOT HAVE A LIGHTING DISPLAY. THE DEALER INFORMED ME THAT THEY KNOW OF THE PROBLEM AND THAT MOSTLY ALL EXPLORERS WILL LOSE THE LIGHTING DISPLAY, BUT THERE HAS NOT BEEN A RECALL AS OF YET. THIS IS EXPENSIVE TO FIX. IT'S NOT LIKE REPLACING A BULB OR SOMETHING. YOU'RE BASICALLY BUYING A NEW RADIO. IF THAT'S THE CASE IT WON'T BE FROM THE FORD DEALERSHIP, AND IT WON'T BE THE MANUFACTURERS RADIO WHICH WE ALL KNOW WILL CRAP OUT. *JB
WHILE DRIVING THE CONSUMER'S SEAT BACK COLLAPSED ALMOST CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. THE CONSUMER RECEIVED A RECALL RELATED TO THIS FAILURE THE DAY AFTER THIS INCIDENT OCCURRED. *LA THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE DEALER INDICATED THAT THEY WERE ONLY REQUIRED TO REPLACE THE BOLT NOT THE SEAT. THE CONSUMER WOULD LIKE TO HAVE THE SEAT REPLACED AT NO COST TO HER (RECALL #03S04). * NM
CONSUMER SEEKING REIMBURSEMENT FOR REPAIRS ON A BOLT THAT ATTACHED TO THE SEAT RECLINER MECHANISM. *LA THE VENTILATION SYSTEM LEAKED. *JB
THE CONSUMER FELT THAT RECALL #03V281000 WAS NOT ADEQUATE ENOUGH TO CORRECT THE DEFECT. THE PROBLEM REMAINED. *AK *SC *JB
WHILE DRIVING DRIVER HEARD A RATTLING NOISE. MECHANIC BELIEVED IT WAS THE CAM SHAFT. TOOK VEHICLE TO FORD, AND FORD STATED THE MOTOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *AK
I BOUGHT A USED 1998 FORD EXPLORER FOR MY WIFE AND AT 135,000 MILES THE CAM TENSIONER BROKE, PUTTING A HOLE IN THE VALVE COVER AND POSSIBLY RUINING THE ENGINE. I CALLED THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP, FLAGGLER FORD. FORD'S REPLY AT FIRST WAS, "YES THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM AND WE WILL FIX THIS AT NO COST TO YOU". THEY TOWED MY EXPLORER IN TO THE DEALERSHIP AND CALLED ME LATER TELLING ME THAT WHILE THE TIME FOR THIS REPAIR IS NOT UP, THE MILEAGE IS OVER WHAT THEY WILL COVER. FORD SAID THEY WOULD FIX IT FOR ANYWHERE FROM $600 TO $6,000! MY MECHANIC, WHO TOLD ME THIS WAS A PROBLEM WITH THESE ENGINES, SAID HE WILL FIX IT FOR $300 PLUS PARTS. I HAVE COMPLAINED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND FORD COSTOMER SERVICE, THIS GOT ME NOWHERE, AND A SUPERVISOR WAS SUPPOST TO CALL ME TODAY BUT AS OF YET...NOTHING.AFTER SEARCHING THE NET I FOUND THAT I AM NOT THE ONLY PERSON WHO HAS HAD THIS VERY PROBLEM. GO TO CARTRACKERS.COM AND YOU'LL FIND A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN TAKEN BY FORD FOR THIS PROBLEM. IF I WAS THE ONLY PERSON THIS HAPPENED TO, WELL I WOULD BE OK WITH THAT BUT FORD'S STANCE IS THAT WHILE ITS A DEFECTIVE PART MINE LASTED LONGER THAN EXPECTED AND THAT I GET NOTHING BUT A BILL. I HAVE NEVER SEEN DAMAGE TO A VEHICLE LIKE THIS BEFORE, AND I HAVE A DODGE AND A CHEVY WITH OVER 140,000 MILES ON THEM AND HAVE NEVER HAD A INTERNAL ENGINE PART FAIL AND RUIN THE ENGINE. PLEASE HELP ME AND THE OTHER PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN SOLD THESE VEHICLES HAVEING NO IDEA THAT AT ANY MOMENT THEY MAY HAVE TO BUY A NEW ENGINE
DRIVERS-SIDE DOOR DOES NOT OPEN BY USING THE KEY, POWER-LOCK/UNLOCK BUTTON OR PULLING THE INSIDE HANDLE. THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE A SAFETY FEATURE IN CASE THE POWER LOCKS FAIL. THIS PROBLEM IS VERY COMMON ACCORDING TO FORD DEALERS, LOCKSMITHS, AND AFTER-MARKET PROFESSIONALS.*AK
WHILE DRIVING 98 FORD EXPLORER SPORT .AFTER ABOUT 2 HOURS OF HIGHWAY DRIVING AT 65 MPH THE REAR PASSANGER SIDE TIRE BLEW OUT.TIRE WAS A GOODYEAR WRANGLER RT/S 255/70R16.TIRE SEPERATED FROM SIDEWALL 3/4 OF THE WAY AROUND.HAD RAGGED EDGE LIKE IT WAS PULLED APART.TIRE DEFECTIVE ? LOOKED LIKE DRY ROT.98 EXPLORER HAS 49,000 MILES ON IT .NOT SURE IF TIRES WERE ORIGINAL EGUITMENT.BOUGHT CAR USED.*AK
OVER THE LAST YEAR MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER 2 DOOR SPORT HAS BEEN LOOSING SOME INTERIOR ELECTRICAL FEATURES. THE FIRST WAS THE DISPLAY LIGHTS ON THE RADIO. THEY WOULD COME AND GO..... NOW THE DISPLAY IS TOTALLY GONE. HOWEVER THE RADIO, CD PLAYER AND TAPE DECK STILL WORK. I JUST CAN'T SEE WHAT TRACK, STATION, OR THE TIME. THEN THE NEXT ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WAS THE DRIVER SIDE POWER UNLOCK SWITCH. I CAN LOCK ALL THE DOORS BUT I CANNOT UNLOCK THE DOORS, NEXT THE LIGHTS WENT OUT ON THE LEFT SIDE OF MY DASH..... I CAN'T REMEMBER IF THIS WAS THE SAME TIME THE LIGHTS WENT OUT ON THE STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS (CRUISE CONTROL SETTINGS) OR IF THAT WENT OUT SEPARATELY. NOW........ I CANNOT UNLOCK THE DRIVER DOOR WITH A KEY. I CAN MOVE THE KEY AROUND AND UNLOCK THE OTHER DOORS BUT NOT THE DRIVER DOOR. I HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE AND YANK ON THE DRIVER HANDLE SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE DOOR WILL OPEN. THIS IS VERY INCONVENIENT. I PLAN ON TAKING THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIRS..... BUT I HAVE HEARD SEVERAL OTHER EXPLORER OWNERS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS...... SHOULD FORD REPAIR THIS AT THEIR COST? IT SEEMS TO ME THIS IS A FORD ISSUE AND NOT SOMETHING I HAVE DONE TO THE VEHICLE, ESPECIALLY IF OTHER OWNERS ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING IS DEFECTIVE IN THE ELECTRICAL HARNESS. *LA
THE DRIVER'S DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE WHEN THE DOOR IS LOCKED AND YOU ATTEMPT TO UNLOCK IT USING THE KEYLESS REMOTE OR THE KEYED LOCK. IT ALSO TAKES SEVERAL PULLS FROM THE INSIDE HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR WHEN THE DOOR IS LOCKED. WHEN THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED IT WORKS PROPERLY USING EITHER HANDLE. WHEN USING THE KEYLESS REMOTE TO UNLOCK THE DOOR YOU CAN HEAR THE ACTUATOR ATTEMPT TO UNLOCK THE DOOR AND YOU CAN SEE THE LOCK BUTTON MOVE BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK. WHEN USING THE KEY TO UNLOCK THE DOOR THE KEY WILL NOT TURN. IF I COULD NO LONGER OPEN THE DRIVERS DOOR FROM THE INSIDE THEN I WOULD HAVE TROUBLE EXITING THE VEHICLE AS IT IS A BIT CRAMPED INSIDE. *LA
WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, I HEARD A SNAP AND A POP LIKE A FANBELT BROKE. I LOST ALL POWER. THIS INCLUDES POWER STEERING AND AIR CONDITIONING. I DRIVING AROUND A CURVE, ON AN INCLINE, AND TO PULL OVER I WAS ON A SLOPE DOWNHILL. I HAVE SINCE BEEN INFORMED THAT THIS PROBLEM IS NOT UNCOMMON WITH THE MOTOR THAT IS IN MY CAR. THE CRANKSHAFT BROKE IN MY CAR. IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WHY HAS THERE NOT BEEN A RECALL?
WHEN THE CONSUMER ATTEMPTED TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR BUT IT FAILED TO OPEN FROM THE INSIDE ALTHOUGH THE DOOR LOCKS WERE IN THE UNLOCKED POSITION. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY FURTHER DETAILS. *NLM
I HAVE A 1998 EXPLORER SPORT SUV. I AM HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE AUTOMATIC LOCKS NOT OPENING AND LOCKING ME INSIDE THE VEHICLE. I HAVE TO PUSH THE AUTOMATIC LOCK BUTTON SIX OR SEVEN TIMES TO GET IT TO WORK. THE HANDLE ON THE DOOR WON'T EVEN OPEN IT.
RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE FROM FORD MOTOR CORP AND TELEPHONED THEM ABOUT ANOTHER MATTER. NAMELY WHEN BREAKING MY 1998 FORD SPORT EXPLORER, IT SUDDENLY STARTED TO ACCELERATE. IMMEDIATELY SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL AND CONTINUED TO BREAK THE CAR. THE MOTOR RACED,BUT THE VEHICLE STOPPED. BECAUSE I APPLIED THE BRAKE WITH CONSIDERABLE FORCE. FORD MOTOR PERSONNEL TOLD ME TO BRING THIS MATTER TO THE ATTENTION OF MY LOCAL FORD DEALER. COMPLIED, BUT ADVISED IF THE PROBLEM DOES NOT APPEAR DURING A ROAD TEST NOTHING CAN BE DONE. THIS IS A COP OUT . WHO KNOWS WHEN IT WILL APPEAR AGAIN AND SOME ONE PERISHES. *JB
DRIVERS SIDE SEAT RECLINE LEVER BROKE OFF. THE SEAT IS UNABLE TO MOVE FORWARD, PREVENTING ACCESS TO THE REAR FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE. THE METAL IS TOO WEAK AND AT AN AWKWARD POSITION. THE DEALER WILL NOT REPLACE, EVEN THROUGH THIS IS AN OBVIOUS FAULTY PART AS THE REPLACEMENT PART IS DESIGNED WITH A THICKER METAL. *JB
WHILE DRIVING DRIVER'S SIDE SEAT RECLINES WITHOUT WARNING. *AK
WHEN TRYING TO OPEN DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR FROM INSIDE HANDLE HAD TO BE PULLED AT LEAST TEN TIMES BEFORE THE DOOR WOULD OPEN. CONSUMER WAS CONCERNED THAT IF THERE WAS AN EMERGENCY THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN. *AK
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 1998 Ford Explorer Sport → · Every Explorer Sport year → · How the figures are calculated →