2016 Dodge Journey complaints

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45-60 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO STATED THAT THERE MAY HAVE BEEN A FAILURE WITH THE FUEL PUMP SENDING UNIT. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. RICK HENDRICK DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP RAM (1468 SAVANNAH HWY, CHARLESTON, SC 29407, (843) 352-6931) WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V907000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 104,000.

THE CAR WAS IN MOTION ON A CITY STREET THE FIRST TIME THE ENGINE JUST TURNED OFF THEN WE WHERE ON THE HIGHWAY WITH BIG RIGS BEHIND AND ON SIDES WHEN ENGINE JUST SUDDENLY SHUT OFF IT WAS MY HUSBAND DRIVING THE FIRST TIME ANDWE HAD OUR KIDS IN THE BACK AND A FRIEND ALSO IT WAS A VERY FRIGHTENING EXPERIENCE I TOLD MY HUBAND DONT PANIC PUSH THE STARTER BUTTON TO TURN OFF THE CAR BECAUSE U COULDN'T GIVE IT GAS BECAUSE ENGINE WAS OFF BUT CAR STILL ON IN GEAR THEN THANKFULLY THE FIRST TIME WE IT WAS NOT BUSY AT THE TIME WE MY HUSBAND PUSHED THE START BUTTON AND CAR WAS IN OFF MODE AND THEN WAITED A FEW MINUTES BEFORE TURNING CAR BACK ON BY PRESSING THE STARTER BUTTON AND THEN WE PROCEEDED TO ENTER THE HIGHWAY AND ABOUT TWO MILES DOWN YOU FEEL A PULL AND THE ENGINE TURNED OFF AGAIN AT SPEED FROM 75 TO QUICK DECREASE IN SPEED HE VEERED OFF TO THE SHOULDER WITH CARS AND BIG RIGS AROUND US TO THE SHOULDER AND PUSHED THE IGNITION BUTTON TO THE OFF POSITION AND WAITED A FEW MINS PRAYED AND THE CAR STARTED AFTER PUSHING THE IGNITION BUTTON TOOK IT TO THE DEALER THE NEXT DAY AS THAT WAS NIGHT AND IT TOOK A DAY FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO SAY THE CAR WAS FINE IT MIGHT BE..EXACT WORDS THE ENGINE CRANK SHAFT BUT IT WAS WORKING FINE FOR THE TECHS SO IT WAS AT MY CHOICE TO HAVE IT CHANGED OR NOT. IT SEEMED TO BE WORKING FINE. THE ENGINE LIGHT THAT HAD TURNED ON AFTER THE ENGINE SHUT OFF WAS OFF SO I DECIDED IT WAS JUST A GLITCH AND CAR WAS OK. HERE I AM 2 WEEKS LATER AND THE CAR KEEPS DOING THE SAME T

CLOCK SPRING CAUSING ALL LIGHTS AND MENU BUTTONS TO NOT WORK ALONG WITH THE RAIDO CONTROLS ON THE STEERING WHEEL.

INSIDE MIDDLE DOME LIGHT STAYS ON ON SOME OCCASIONS TURNS ITSELF ON EVEN AFTER CAR IS LOCKED. ANOTHER ISSUE THAT JUST STARTED WHILE DRIVING THE CAR OR PREARRANGED MUCH JUST BEING ON IS THE REAR WIPER COMES ON BY ITSELF AND STAYS RUNNIN TILL IT WANTS TO STOP AND WHEN IT DOSE TURN ITSELF OFF THE WIPER BLADE STAYS IN THE MIDDLE POSITION INSTEAD OF GOING DOWN ALL THE WAY.

I BELIEVE THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THE TRANSMISSION PUMP HYDRAULIC PRESSURE FOR MY MODEL VEHICLE. I WAS TOLD THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE DODGE JOURNEY FOR THE PUMP, BUT NOT FOR MY PARTICULAR MODEL. I AM CURRENTLY HAVING ISSUES WITH MY VEHICLE LOSING HYDRAULIC PRESSURE IN THE TRANSMISSION. A DIAGNOSTIC CODE IS GIVEN ALSO. WHEN DRIVING, MY VEHICLE WILL SHUT OFF.

WITH LESS THAN 16000 MILES HAVE HAD BATTERY DRAIN DOWN ON 3 OCCASIONS, IN ONE OCCASION LESS THAN 16 HOURS PARKED IN A HEATED GARAGE. BATTERY DISCHARGED TO THE THE POINT ONCE IGNITION TO START IS PRESSED, LIGHTS FLICKER, CLICKING SOUND FORM ENGINE COMPARTMENT, WONT EVEN STOP THIS ACTION BY TURNING IGNITION OFF. CHECK OF BATTERY VOLTAGE WAS 5.6 VOLTS, BATTERY REPLACED ON FIRST OCCASION BY DEALER, BOTH OTHER TIMES, DEALER CHARGED BATTERY AND NO APPARENT CODES TRIPPED. UNABLE TO LOCATE PROBLEM. NO LIGHTS ETC WERE LEFT ON ON EITHER FAILURE, PARKED IN HEATED GARAGE, DRIVEN FOR OVER 30 MILES EACH TIME. SOMETHING IS PUTTING A SEVERE DRAIN ON THE BATTERY IS A SHORT TIME.

VEHICLE WHILE DRIVE FINE FOR MANY MILES USUALLY AFTER DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY BUT WHEN I NEED TO MAKE A TURN IT BECOMES DIFFICULT FOR THE VEHICLE TO ACCELERATE AND WILL SUDDENLY JERK FORWARD OR POP. MY CAR WAS RECENTLY SERVICED DUE TO THE DRIVE SHAFT CRACKING IN AN ABNORMAL WAY ACCORDING TO MECHANICS WHICH COSTED $4200 I EXPECTED THE ISSUE TO BE SOLVED AFTER THE REPAIR BUT IT SEEMS TO HAVE GOTTEN WORSE THERE WAS A HUMMING SOUND NOW WHILE TURNING I'M AFRAID THE PROBLEM MAY BE MANUFACTURER RELATED SINCE IT'S HAPPENING AGAIN AFTER THE REPAIR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE ENGINE STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE VEHICLE OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO GLENBROOK DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP (100 W COLISEUM BLVD, FORT WAYNE, IN 46805) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CRANK SENSOR HARNESS PLUGS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND THE THROTTLE BODY NEEDED TO BE CLEANED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BY AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V907000 (ENGINE). THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 105,000.

TAKATA RECALL FOR A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. MY DODGE JOURNEY IS EXPERIENCING MULTIPLY ISSUES THAT MAY BE DEEMED AS ELECTRICAL ISSUES. THE FIRST ISSUE IS THE CRUISE CONTROL IS STILL MALFUNCTIONING FROM A PREVIOUS RECALL UNDER RECALL NUMBER 18U49182. WHETHER CRUISE CONTROL IS OFF OR ON THE VEHICLE STILL MAINTAINS IT'S SAME SPEED. THE SECOND ISSUE WITH MY VEHICLE IS ALSO THE VEHICLE CONSTANTLY VEERS OFF THE ROAD. I ALMOST CRASHED ON THE EXPRESSWAY BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE. THIS ISSUE POSE A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE IT CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. THE THIRD ISSUE WITH THIS 2016 DODGE IS THE TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEMS SEEMS TO BE FAULTY. I HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING A ISSUE WITH THIS FOR A MONTH NOW. WHEN I PUT AIR INTO THE TIRES ALL OF THE TIRES PRESSURE PSI ARE THE SAME THEN WITHIN FIVE MINUTES ALL THE TIRE PSI ARE DIFFERENT BY SUBSTANTIAL DIGITS. ONE TIRE COULD BE 39 WHEN YOU BEGIN AND FIVE MINUTES LATER IT COULD DISPLAY 34 PSI. THE VEHICLE IS ALWAYS IMBALANCED CAUSING IT TO ROCK.

BACKING OUT OF DRIVEWAY IN REVERSE AND THE TRANSFER CASE TWISTED OUT OF THE VEHICLE, SNAPPING HARDWARE AND BREAKING OFF ALUMINUM CASING ALSO FOUND LOSE HARDWARE. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 65,000 MILES ON IT. THIS OCCURRED ON LEVEL GRADE THERE WAS NO INCLINES

THE TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF FIRST GEAR LOSS OF POWER.

THE DOOR LOCKS CONTINUE TO LOCK EVEN IF THE KEY FOB IS IN THE VEHICLE. THIS HAPPENS ESPECIALLY IN THE MORNINGS WHEN IT IS COLD. *BF*JB

VEHICLE NOT USED 4 DAYS, TRIED TO START, THE BATTERY TOTALLY DISCHARGED, ZERO VOLTS MEASURED WITH A VOLTMETER. NO APPARENT REASON, NOTHING WAS LEFT CONNECTED OR POWERED ON (I.E COMPUTER, PHONE, ETC.) STARTED WITH THE HELP OF ANOTHER VEHICLE, THE BATTERY CHARGED AND WORKS OK, THE SYMPTOM DID NOT RECURRED. I READ SEVERAL COMMENTS ONLINE. IS THERE A KNOWN REASON? DURING THE NO POWER ORDEAL, I NOTICED A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN: THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK CAN BE OPENED WITH THE KEY, WHILE THE OTHER DOORS LOCKS ARE ELECTRICALLY ACTIVATED AND IF THE CAR BATTERY IS DEAD CAN NOT BE OPENED, NEITHER FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE . THE CAR BATTERY IS PHYSICALLY LOCATED BEHIND THE LEFT FENDER, IN FRONT OF THE LEFT WHEEL AND WILL BE DAMAGED EVEN IN CASE OF A MINOR FENDER-BENDER. IF THIS WILL HAPPEN, ALL THE OCCUPANTS (EXCEPT THE DRIVER WILL BE LOCKED INSIDE). WHAT IF A FIRE WILL OCCUR? THE CAR HAS 7 SEATS! THERE MIGHT BE 7 OCCUPANTS TO BE EVACUATED THROUGH ONE DOOR ONLY! I HOPE MY CONCERN WILL REACH THE RIGHT PERSON (OR DEPARTMENT), AND I HOPE A CURE OR REMEDY WILL BE FIND. THIS WILL POSSIBLE SAVE LIVES! SINCERELY, [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *CC *TR

SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER HAVING NEW TIRES PUT ON MY SUV, I NOTICED THE SERVICE AWD, TRACTION CONTROL, AND ABS LIGHTS WERE ON CONTINUOUSLY ON MY PANEL WHEN IN MOTION AND UPON LEARNING THE IGNITION BUTTON. SOMETIMES THEY'D GO OFF EITHER MOVING OR STATIONARY BUT THEN AS 2 MONTHS PASSED, THEY'D REMAIN ON AT ALL TIMES. I WASN'T ABLE TO ENGAGE CRUISE CONTROL WHEN THOSE LIGHTS WERE ON. I HAD 2 NEAR ACCIDENTS FROM NEARLY HITTING 2 LARGE DEER. I HIT MY BRAKES AND MY TIRES DID BUT WASN'T TO GRIP THE ROAD AND JUST FELT LIKE THEY WERE ON ICE (IN SUMMER) . WHEN THEY WOULD GRIP THEY MADE A LOUD NOISE AND THEN I WAS ABLE TO STOP BUT NOT WITHOUT SMELLING BURNT RUBBER. I HAVE HEARD FROM A FRIEND OF MINE THAT IS A MECHANIC THAT HE HAD A FEELING IT WAS MY ABS SENSOR BUT DIDNT HAVE ACCESS TO A DODGE DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM AS HE WORKS FOR A DIFFERENT DEALERSHIP. IVE HEARD FROM DIFFERENT PEOPLE THAT THIS HAS BEEN A "COMMON" PROBLEM RECENTLY WITH JOURNEYS. I PAID 97 DOLLARS FOR A DIAGNOSTIC FORMA NON-DEALER GARAGE AND THEY CONFIRMED IT WAS MY RIGHT FRONT ABS SENSOR AND IT WAS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT. I CALLED THE DODGE DEALERSHIP AND I WAS NOT INFORMED WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN THERE FOR THE RECALL THAT IT WAS UNDER WARRANTY. I BROUGHT MY SUV IN AND THE ADVISOR DIDN'T BELIEVE IT WAS MY SENSOR UNTIL IT WAS REPLACED. I WAS INFORMED THAT THE JOURNEYS HAVE BEEN COMING IN BY THE DOZEN OVER THIS ISSUE AND ALL OVER THE U.S. THAT WAS THE ONLY SENSOR CHECKED AND REPLACED AND MY WARRANTY IS ABOUT DONE. PLEASE INVESTIGATE HA

I HAVE A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY ABOUT A MONTH AGO RAN OVER A LARGE RAIN PUDDLE WHILE TURNING IN TO GET SOME GAS. FILLED UP AND AS I'M DRIVING OFF ABS, BRAKE, AND THE SWERVING CAR SIGNAL KEPT COMING ON. MY FUEL GAUGE READER WENT ALL THE WAY DOWN TO EMPTY AND THE SPEEDOMETER WOULD GO UP AND DOWN RANDOM TIMES WHILE DRIVING. COUPLE DAYS LATER WE HAD TOOK IT IN TO GET CHECKED OUT WAS TOLD MY FUEL SENSOR WENT OUT AND NEEDED TO GET A NEW FUEL PUMP BECAUSE THE SENSOR WAS INSIDE OF IT. HAD IT FIXED AFTER WAITING TWO DAYS FROM OUR CAR GUY DROVE IT OFF THE REPAIR SHOP AND NOT EVEN HOURS LATER THE SAME ISSUE. WAS TOLD I HAD WARRANTY ON FUEL PUMP PURCHASED FROM DEALERSHIP AND THEY WOULD REPLACE IT AGAIN. I TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD NEEDED A NEW FUEL PUMP AND THEY WERE GOING TO CHARGE ME 135 PER ERROR CODE AND THEN WOULD TELL ME WHAT ADDITIONALLY NEEDED TO BE FIXED AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO LEAVE THE CAR FOR UP TO A WEEK. THE CAR WAS JUST PURCHASED IN AUG 2018 AND IT HAS UNDER 54K MILES ON IT. WHILE DRIVING THE CAR AT ANY GIVEN TIME ALL THE LIGHTS CONTINUE TO COME ON. THE CAR STOPPED ON ME IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. IT GAVE OUT ON ME IN THE CENTER HIGHWAY AND I HAD TO WAIT FOR EMERGENCY SERVECES TO ASSIST ME IT TOOK 2 HOURS AND THIS WAS AT 7 AM IN THE MORNING ON 610/10 FREEWAY IN HOUSTON, TX THE CAR HAS GIVEN OUT ON ME TWICE NOW AND IVE REPLACED THE BATTERY TWICE. WHATEVER IS THE ISSUE CONTINUES TO KILL THE BATTERY POWER AND I CAN'T FIND ANY MECHANIC INCLUDING THE DEALERSHIP TO FIX

DRIVING UP LOMBARD STREET IN SAN FRANCISCO, WHEN I STEP ON BRAKES ON STOPS WHILE UPHILL, THEN STEP ON GAS TO DRIVE AGAIN, THE VEHICLE'S TIRES SPINS (NOT CATCHING) THEN VEHICLE WOULD DROP BACKWARDS 2 TO 5 FEET. THIS IS A VERY BUSY STREET BECAUSE IT IS A TOURIST ATTRACTION, BUT OTHER CARS ARE STAYING AWAY FROM THE JOURNEY BECAUSE IT KEEPS FALLING BACK. THIS HAPPENED IN MARCH 2017. TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP, THEY CANT FIND ANY PROBLEM, SAID THAT IT IS JOURNEY'S DESIGN TO SAVE FUEL. DIDN'T USE JOURNEY IN SF AGAIN, FOR MY SAFETY AND OTHERS. JUST WANTED TO KNOW IF THIS IS REALLY TRUE, THAT THIS IS THEIR DESIGN AND YOU ARE AWARE OF THIS HAPPENING. (NOT SURE OF SPECIFIC DATE BUT MARCH, 2017)

VEHICLE IS SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING. ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS.

2016 DODGE JOURNEY. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARD TO PROBLEMS WITH VEHICLE THAT CAUSES THE BATTERY TO MALFUNCTION QUICKLY. *AS THE CONSUMER STATED THE BATTERY IN THE VEHICLE FAILED FOUR TIMES AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WOULD SHUT DOWN WITHOUT WARNING WHEN THE BATTERY FAILED. THE CONSUMER WAS INFORMED THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO THE VEHICLE ONLY BEING DRIVEN 4000 MILES A YEAR. THE ELECTRONICS ON THE VEHICLE REQUIRE IT TO BE DRIVEN MORE OFTEN OR, INSTALL A BATTERY TRICKLER. *JS

WE BOUGHT A BRAND NEW 2016 JOURNEY. AFTER TWO YEARS OF OWNING (WITH NO ACCIDENTS OR ISSUES) WE HAD A SITUATION WHERE WE HAD TO SLAM ON THE BRAKES DUE TO THE CAR IN FRONT OF US RANDOMLY SLAMMING ON THEIR BRAKES. MY CHILD WAS IN THE BACK SEAT IN A SEAT BELT AND THE SEAT BELT CAME UNLATCHED, HE ENDED UP HITTING HIS HEAD ON THE BACK OF THE FRONT SEAT. ALTHOUGH THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT, IT COULD HAVE BEEN MUCH WORSE. THIS IS THE SECOND SEAT BELT WE HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH IN THIS CAR. WE CAN CONTINUE TO GET THEM FIXED BUT WHAT IF SOMETHING WORSE HAPPENS AND ANOTHER BELT GOES BAD? THIS IS OUR FAMILIES SAFETY AND THE BELTS CONTINUE TO PROVE TO BE FAULTY ON A CAR WE BROUGHT BRAND NEW.

TIPM RELAY, SOLENOID CIRCUIT, AND TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT HAD AND HAS TO BE REPLACED WHICH ON SEVERAL AUTOMOTIVE FORUMS IS NOT AN ISOLATED INCIDENT AND A TECHNICIAN AT A REPAIR SHOP AS STATED AS MUCH. WITH IT BEING A CAR A YEAR OLD I FIND THIS TO BE DISTURBING AND THAT CHRYSLER IS NOT STEPPING UP TO THE PLATE AND ORDER RECALLS AS THIS ALSO RESULTS IN POOR GAS MILEAGE. I HAVE HAD TO SPEND $1000 NOT TO MENTION IF WANT ALL RESOLVED ANOTHER $600 ON A PRACTICALLY NEW VEHICLE. TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR ERRORS IN MANUFACTURING OF VEHICLE.

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION SWITCH SOME TIME I FEEL LIKE SOMETHING HIT MY CAR FROM THE BOTTOM (THIS IS A VERY TIGHT SWITCH). THIS IS A FAMILY CAR WE DRIVE VERY SAFETY. I HOPE THIS IS THE WARRANTY ISSUE.

WHILE DRIVING MY CAR IT WOULD SHAKE/JOLT WHEN GOING DOWN HILL AND PRESSING THE BRAKES. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER WHO SAID THAT THE ROTORS WERE WARPED AND NEEDED REPLACED, SAYING THAT THIS WAS DUE TO THE WAY I DROVE THE CAR THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS/DOWN HILL. AT THIS POINT I HAD ONLY HAD THE CAR SHORT OF TWO MONTHS. THEY ALSO SAID THAT THE BRAKES WOULD NEED REPLACED DUE TO THIS WEAR. THIS IS A FAIRLY NEW VEHICLE ONLY A YEAR OLD AT THE TIME. HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE? I AM TOLD THAT THIS IS "NORMAL WEAR" AND NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. I HAD A DODGE DURANGO PREVIOUSLY, WENT OVER THE MOUNTAIN 20+ TIMES OVER ONE YEAR AND DID NOT HAVE TO REPLACE BRAKES OR ROTORS AND IN THE 10 YEARS I HAD THE DURANGO NEVER NEEDED ROTORS REPLACED.... FAULTY MANUFACTURING IN THE DODGE JOURNEY 2016 IF YOU ASK ME

AIR BAG LIGHT IS ON DUE TO CLOCK SPRING NOT WORKING. TURNS ON AN OFF RANDOMLY AND BEEPS

AFTER BEING REAR ENDED AT A STOPPED POSITION AND PUSHED INTO ANOTHER STOPPED VEHICLE IN FRONT, THUS CAUSING A DOUBLE COLLISION, THE DRIVER SEAT HEADREST COMPLETELY EJECTED FROM DRIVER SEAT. DRIVER SEAT ADJUSTMENT BAR CAUSED DEEP TISSUE DAMAGE TO LEGS. THIRD ROW SEAT SPLIT AND SEPARATED SEAT SURFACE FROM BACK SUPPORT. INCIDENT TOOK PLACE AT A REDLIGHT FOR A LEFT-TURN LANE FROM THE HIGHWAY TO AN INTERSECTING ROAD. VEHICLE WAS STRUCK BY A MINIVAN STILL MAINTAINING FULL HIGHWAY SPEED OF AT LEAST 55 MPH. IMAGES ARE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.

WHILE DRIVING ON COUNTY ROAD I CAME TO SHARP CURVE WITH AN INCLINE. AS I ENTERED THE CURVE THE POWER STEERING STOPPED WORKING, BRAKES WERE VERY HARD TO DEPRESS AND THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE, THE ENGINE WAS STILL RUNNING. I WAS ABLE TO SHUT OFF THE VEHICLE AND TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WORKED AS NORMAL.

WHEN YOU DRIVE THE CAR ACCELERATE AND WHEN YOU BREAK THE CAR GOS SIDE BY SIDE AND THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL MAKES A LOAD NOISE LIKE ITS LOSSE THIS HAPPEN AFTER THE FIRST RECALL

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION. THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO PULL THE VEHICLE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD PRIOR TO THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE CONTACT'S RESIDENCE. CORNERSTONE MITSUBISHI (580 MAIN STREET, WILMINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, 01887) AND LAWLESS CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM (196 LEXINGTON STREET, WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 01801) WERE CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THAT THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR (DTC) WAS A POTENTIAL CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 58,000.

AS I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, I WAS AT A STOP LIGHT WHEN MY ENGINE STALLED. I PUT MY CAR BACK INTO PARK TURNED OFF THE THE CAR AND TURNED IT BACK ON. WHILE STILL DRIVING HOME AS I WAS GETTING OFF THE FREEWAY AND MAKING A LEFT HAND TURN MY CAR THEN SHUT DOWN AGAIN AND I LOST ALL POWER STEERING. I FINISHED MAKING THE TURN IDLING TO A STOP AS I HAD TO TURN OFF MY CAR YET AGAIN. I TURNED IT BACK ON AND MADE IT HOME FINE. THIS CANT BE SAFE FOR MY CAR WHILE IN DRIVE MOVING TO JUST COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN. THE CAR IS ONLY TWO YEARS OLD AND IT'S THE FAMILY CAR. THANKFULLY THE KIDS WHERE NOT IN THE CAR OR IT SHUT DOWN WHILE I WAS ON THE FREEWAY.

WHEN I'M TRYING TO PUT MY SEATBELT IN, IT DOESN'T ALWAYS CATCH. IT WILL SLIDE BACK OUT. THIS FIRST STARTED IN THE FIRST YEAR OF US BUYING. IT HAD 17 MILES ON IT WHEN I BOUGHT IT. IT CAME OUT WHILE DRIVING ONE TIME. *TT *TR

LITTLE OVER 30K MILES. ABOUT 47 MPH ON A 45 HIGHWAY AND NEEDED TO VEER RIGHT. I HAD MY MUSIC TURNED UP AND INSTEAD OF BREAKING I ALLOWED THE CAR TO COAST SO THE SPEED WOULD DROP BEFORE MY TURN I NEEDED TO MAKE. . WHEN I DROPPED TO A SPEED I WAS HAPPY WITH, THEN I START BREAKING AND THATS WHEN I REALIZED THE CAR HAD CUT OFF, THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP, AND THE BRAKES BECAME TOUGHER TO PUSH. IT WAS A BUSY HIGHWAY AND A JUST AS BUSY RIGHT TURN THAT I WAS TRYING TO MAKE. I HAD TO THROW THE CAR IN NEUTRAL TO RESTART WHILE STILL ROLLING OR I WOULD HAVE BEEN HIT.

I HAVE A PUSH BUTTON IGNITION AND WHEN I PUSH THE BREAK AND TRY TO START THE VEHICLE IT DOES NOT CRANK OVER. I SEE THAT THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ONE SPECIFIC PROBLEM BUT DODGE HAS FELLED TO CORRECT IT.

WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION ON THE HIGHWAY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT APPEAR. WHEN THIS HAPPENS, THE VEHICLE LOSES ALL POWER AND BRAKES. AT THIS POINT I AM UNABLE TO ACCELERATE TO MOVE TO A SAFE AREA WHERE THE CAR NEEDS TO BE TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED. ONCE THE VEHICLE IS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS LIT AND THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WILL TURN OFF MOMENTARILY. UPON DRIVING THE VEHICLE AGAIN, THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WILL TURN BACK ON AND THE PREVIOUS STEPS NEED TO BE REPEATED.

DURING RUSH HOUR, I WAS ON THE WAY TO PICK UP MY DAUGHTER FROM DAY CARE. AS I SLOWED DOWN INTO THE TURNING/MERGE LANE AT AN INTERSECTION, MY CAR JUST TURNED OFF WITHOUT PRIOR WARNING. I CAME TO A STOP AND ATTEMPTED A RESTART, BUT IT WOULD NOT ALLOW A RESTART UNTIL THE 6TH TRY. MY HAZARD LIGHTS WOULD NOT TURN ON, SO I HAD TO WAVE ANGRY DRIVERS TO GO AROUND ME. IT WAS VERY STRESSFUL BECAUSE I WAS AFRAID OF BEING REAR-ENDED WHILE WAITING FOR IT TO RESTART SO I COULD MOVE OUT OF HARM'S WAY. I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE, BRAND NEW, IN APRIL 2016. I DIDN'T HAVE PROBLEMS WITH IT UNTIL IT WAS 2 YEARS OLD. FOR THE FIRST YEAR, I EVEN COMMUTED TO WORK 3 HOURS DAILY. NOW, I AM AFRAID TO DRIVE IT 3 MILES. THE ENGINE WILL SIMPLY TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. WE RESEARCHED IT ONLINE AND FOUND IT WAS MOST LIKELY A CAMSHAFT OR CRANKSHAFT SENSOR ISSUE. EVEN AFTER HAVING BOTH SENSORS REPLACED, THE PROBLEM HAS CONTINUED. MECHANICS ARE AT A LOSS BECAUSE THE PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT. SOMETIMES, I CAN DRIVE IT A FEW DAYS IN A ROW WITHOUT ANY ISSUE. I SIMPLY CANNOT BELIEVE THAT MY PARTICULAR VIN WAS NOT PART OF THE RECALL TO REPLACE THE SENSORS AND THAT THERE SEEMS TO BE NO SOLUTION TO THIS DANGEROUS VEHICLE. I CANNOT DRIVE MY 2-YEAR-OLD CAR ANYWHERE FOR FEAR OF AN ACCIDENT!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE STEERING WHEEL WAS TURNED TO THE RIGHT TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH A TRUCK. HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE TURNED TO THE LEFT AND COLLIDED WITH AN EMBANKMENT. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AFTER THE FAILURE. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED LEFT ARM SORENESS, BUT NO MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS REQUIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TOWED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,632.

WHILE DRIVING/TURNING MY CAR SEEMS TO HALT AND MAKE A GRUNTING/RUBBING NOISE. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER SEVERAL TIMES WHO SAYS THERE IS NOT A PROBLEM. HOWEVER, THEY HAVE HAD ME REPLACE MY BRAKES PADS AND ROTORS TWICE IN THE LAST 10 MONTHS. SOMETHING IS WRONG AND I BELIEVE THAT WHATEVER THE PROBLEM IS CONTINUES TO DAMAGE MY BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS.

CAM RELAY - CAR DIES, WHEN TRY TO START AGAIN IT "JUMPS" AND MAKES NOISE - IT HAS HAPPENED WHLE SITTING IN A PARKG LOT AND WHILE DRIVING ON CITY STREETS. HAD A RECALL S89 ON THE DODGE JOURNEY FOR THIS ISSUE - BUT HAVE BEEN TOLD IT DOES NOT APPLY TO MY VEHICLE HAPPEND MORE THAN 3-4 TIMES IN PAST MONTH

ON JULY 22, 2017, I TRIED TO START MY CAR AND IT WOULDN'T START. I CALLED A TOW TRUCK COMPANY AND THEY TRIED TO CHARGE THE VEHICLE TO NO AVAIL. THEY TOWED THE VEHICLE TO KENDALL DODGE CHRYSLER AND JEEP. THE VEHICLE SAT AT THE DEALER FOR OVER 8 DAYS. WHEN I RECEIVED THE VEHICLE BACK IT STILL HAD ELECTRICAL ISSUE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE BACK IN AND THEY REPAIRED THE ELECTRICAL ISSUES AGAIN. IN FEBRUARY OF THIS YEAR THE WHILE I WAS DRIVING WITH MY FOUR KIDS IN THE CAR (2 OF WHICH ARE UNDER THE AGE OF 3) THE ANTILOCK BRAKE LIGHT TURNED ON AND THE CAR STOPPED ON ITS OWN. AFTER ACCELERATOR WAS TOUGH TO TOUCH. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME THE CAR WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY AND I WILL HAVE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIRS. I CALLED DODGE DIRECTLY AND THEY CALLED THE DEALER AND THE TOLD THEM TO REPAIR THE CAR. THE DEALER STILL GAVE ME A HARD TIME AND WOULD NOT GIVE ME A RENTAL CAR. THEY MADE ME CALL DODGE AGAIN AND HAVE THEM AUTHORIZE A RENTAL. THE CAR IS NOW GIVING ME ELECTRICAL ISSUES AGAIN ALONG WITH THE ANTILOCK BRAKE LIGHT TURNING ON SPORADICALLY AND WHEN I CALLED DODGE DIRECTLY THEY TOLD ME THEY ARE GOING TO SEND A TECH TO CHECK THE VEHICLE OUT. IF THEY CAN RECREATE THE PROBLEM THEN I WOULD HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE PROBLEM TO HAPPEN AGAIN. I CAN NOT WAIT FOR THE ANTILOCK BRAKES TO LOCK UP AGAIN WITH MY KIDS IN THE CAR. THE VEHICLE CLEARLY HAS A RECURRING ELECTRICAL ISSUE THAT CAN NOT BE FIXED. THIS VEHICLE IS A DANGER TO ME AND MY FAMILY IT IS A TIME BOMB WAITING TO EXPLODE WIT

THE REAR RIGHT SIDE PASSENGER WINDOW ISN'T WORKING. FOR A WHILE IT WAS ROLLING UP AND DOWN SLOWLY, AND SEEMED TO BE STICKING. AFTER A COUPLE OF WEEKS IT GOT WORSE, WE LOCKED THE WINDOWS AND WOULDN'T ALLOW THE KIDS TO ROLL DOWN THEIR WINDOWS. THERE WERE 3 TIMES WHERE WE THOUGHT THE WINDOW WASN'T GOING TO WORK AT ALL. WE WERE OUT OF STATE AND AFTER ROLLING THE WINDOW DOWN IT WOULDN'T GO UP. WE HAD TO PARK OUR CAR OVERNIGHT TWO TIMES AT OUR HOTEL WITH THE WINDOW DOWN BECAUSE IT WOULDN'T GO UP. JUST RECENTLY IT STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. MY SON ROLLED THE WINDOW DOWN AND HAD HIS UPPER TORSO (HEAD) LEANING OUT THE WINDOW. WE WEREN'T IN MOTION (PARKED) AND THE WAY HIS HAND WAS POSITIONED ON THE WINDOW BUTTON IT PUSHED IT UP, IT STARTED ROLLING UP AND WHEN HE NOTICED HE HAD GOT SQUISHED BETWEEN THE WINDOW ITSELF AND THE UPPER FRAME OF THE DOOR. HE REALIZED HIS HAND WAS PUSHING ON THE WINDOW BUTTON AND TOOK HIS HAND OFF AND TRIED TO ROLL IT BACK DOWN.... IT WOULDN'T BUDGE. HE STARTED YELLING FOR US AND WE WENT AND SHOVED THE WINDOW DOWN WITH OUR HANDS WHILE TRYING TO USE THE WINDOW BUTTON TO ROLL IT DOWN, IT MOVED VERY, VERY, SLOWLY. WE WERE ABLE TO GET IT ALL THE WAY DOWN AND NOW IT WONT GO BACK UP. ITS BEEN ROLLED ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR 4 DAYS NOW. SIGH.......... CURRENTLY LOOKING AT MECHANICS TO TRY AND FIX THE PROBLEM.

I HAVE BEEN HAVING ISSUES WITH SEVERAL THINGS. FIRST WHEN I STOP THE CAR IT ACTS LIKE IT DOESN'T WANT TO STOP. IT WILL ACTUALLY COME TO A BUMPY STOP FINALLY. ANOTHER ISSUE IS THAT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON. AFTER HAVING THE COMPUTER CHECKED THE CODE WAS FOR THE CATALICK CONVERTER NOT FUNCTIONING. THE LAST ISSUE HAPPENED YESTERDAY AND WHENI WAS DRIVING MY CAR DECIDED TO DECELERATE FOR NO REASON. I WAS LUCK I WAS ON A FARM MARKET ROAD AND NOT A MAJOR HIGHWAY. I HAVE CHECKED FOR RECALLS ON MY VEHOCLE VIA VIN NUMBER. HOWEVER MY SPECIFIC VIN IS NOT LISTED, BUT I AM EXPERIENCING SOME OF THE SAME PROBLEMS THAT ARE ASSOCIATED WITH THE RECALLS. THE DEALERSHIP WILL NOT HELP BECAUSE MY VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THE RECALL LIST. I FEAR THAT I AM GOING TO GET IN A WRECK BEFORE THIS COMPANY RECALLS ALL OF ITS DEFECTIVE VEHICLES!

WHEN I MAKE A STOP IN A STREET WITH STOP SIGNS, ITHEN ACCELERATE QUICKLY THE VEHICLE TREMBLES HARD, IS LIKE TURNING ON THE ENGINE AGAIN...I HAVE THE SMALL MOTOR MODEL. IS SO HARD THAT SOMETIMES I PREFER TO STOP FOR 5 SECS, JUST CAN'T PARTIALLY STOP, IF I REDUCED THE SPEED BUT NOT STOP COMPLETELY THEN ACCELERATE GENTLE, NOT HARD, IT STILL DO IT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE. IN ADDITION, WHILE DEPRESSING THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, THE VEHICLE MADE A WHINING NOISE AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT COASTED THE VEHICLE OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND POWERED OFF THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT WHEN ATTEMPTING TO REVERSE, THE VEHICLE WOULD JERK AND FAILED TO REVERSE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 53,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE STEERING WHEEL SEIZED AND BECAME EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO TURN IN EITHER DIRECTION, ESPECIALLY WHILE TURNING LEFT. THE DEALER (BROWN-DAUB DODGE/CHRYSLER/JEEP/RAM OF BATH AND DODGE TRUCK CENTER, 7720 BETH-BATH PIKE BATH, PA, (610) 837-9303) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, AND INDICATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V273000 (STEERING). THE DEALER STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD NEED TO BE DIAGNOSED TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER CONFIRMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS EXCLUDED FROM THE RECALL AND SUGGESTED THAT THE DEALER DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR THE VEHICLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 61,000. *TT *JS

WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE ON CITY STREET IT SHUT OFF, STEERING LOCKED UP AND HAD TO COAST TO A STOP. WHEN I TRIED TO RESTART THE VEHICLE IT SHOOK AND ACTED LIKE IT WAS TRYING TO TURN OVER FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS THEN SHUT OFF. PUSH BUTTON START REMAINED ON RUN. TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIR AND WITHIN 10 MINUTES OF LEAVING DEALERSHIP AFTER REPAIR IT HAPPENED AGAIN THIS TIME ON THE HIGHWAY.

BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER FLOORS ARE SOAKED ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK ...I WILL LET THEM DRY AND IN A FEW WEEKS IT'S BACK AGAIN . THIS WAS BOUGHT AS A NEW CAR ...WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON ...I HAVE HAD THE DRAIN TUBE CLEANED OUT AND THE AIR CONDITIONING DRIP CONTAINER DRAINED OUT ...I GOOGLED THE PROBLEM AND FOUND IT COULD BE A SEAL PROBLEM. PLEASE TELL ME HOW I CAN GET THIS FIXED AND NOT HAVE TO PAY FOR IT ....I DON'T THINK THIS IS MY FAULT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. OCCASIONALLY, WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45-70 MPH, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED INDEPENDENTLY AND THEN STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO TOWBIN DODGE LLC (275 AUTO MALL DR, HENDERSON, NV 89014, (702) 558-3800) TO BE DIAGNOSED, BUT THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO VERIFY THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V907000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING). THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED PER THE RECALL; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS INTERMITTENT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30. *TT THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE BEGAN TRYING TO STALL OUT THEN TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING. AT TIME THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. *JS

MY ACCELERATION DOESN'T WORK WELL, I HAVE TO MAKE SURE THERE IS A LOT OF SPACE TO PULL IN TRAFFIC, OTHER WISE I WILL GET REAR ENDED BECAUSE THE CAR DOESN'T MOVE FAST ENOUGH, IT JUST STALLS.

MY SEAT BELT UNBUCKLES ITS SELF WHEN DRIVING. IT WILL NOT LATCH INTO THE BUCKLE PROPERLY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS APPLIED, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO MOVE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TWICE TO THE LOCAL DEALER (FURY MOTORS, 1000 CONCORD ST SOUTH, SAINT PAUL, MN 55075) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED EACH TIME THAT THE DIFFERENTIAL AXLE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE AND OPENED CASE NUMBER: 33323599. NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 26,035.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING ON AN INCLINE AT 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER AND ROLLED BACK INTO A DITCH. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED PRIOR TO THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (VANN UNDERWOOD DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP, 501 S MADISON ST, WHITEVILLE, NC 28472), BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 26,000. *TT *TR

DRIVING MY DAUGHTER TO SCHOOL THIS MORNING, SLOWED FROM 25 MPH FOR UPCOMING STOP SIGN. LOST ALL POWER AND STEERING. ALL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IN THE VEHICLE WERE BLANK. SEEMED A BIT DIFFICULT TO STOP BUT NOT SURE IF THAT WAS A BRAKE ISSUE. STORED VEHICLE. PUT IT IN PARK. LIGHTS ON COMPONENTS CAME BACK ON IMMEDIATELY AND BUTTON START INDICATOR STILL LIT IN RUN POSITION. STEPPED ON BRAKES AND PUSHED THE BUTTON AND THE VEHICLE STARTED FINE. NO ISSUES ON RETURN HOME. ALMOST EXACTLY 2 HOURS LATER TRIED TO TAKE MY SON TO SCHOOL. HIT UNLOCK BUTTON ON KEYS, NO RESPONSE. TRIED MULTIPLE TONNES AND ANY/ALL BUTTONS- NO RESPONSE. USED "VALET" KEY TO UNLOCK DOOR. NO COMPONENT LIGHTS OR INDICATORS CAME ON. LEFT THE DRIVERS DOOR OPEN, OPENED HOOD, LOOKED AROUND, NO OBVIOUS PROBLEMS. SHOOK BATTERY CABLES- ALL TIGHT. CLOSED HOOD HAZARD LIGHTS STARTED FLASHING. GOT IN AND PRESSED ON THE BRAKES, PUSHED START BUTTON AND VEHICLE STARTED. DID NOT DRIVE IT AT THAT TIME. BARELY 2 HOURS LATER I STARTED THE VEHICLE TOO DRIVE TO WORK. LET IT WARM UP FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES, THEN TOOK CITY STREETS. ABOUT 1 MILE INTO THE DRIVE I STOPPED FOR A RED LIGHT. VEHICLE AGAIN LOST ALL POWER, NO LIGHTS ON COMPONENTS, NOTHING. HAD A VEHICLE COMING UP BEHIND ME SO QUICKLY PUT IT IN PARK AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. OIL INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON. LOOKED AT VEHICLE INFO AND TEMPS WERE ALL WITHIN MID-RANGE. GOT TO WORK (APPROXIMATELY 1 MORE MILE AWAY) AND TURNED VEHICLE OFF. I HAVE STARTED IT ON EACH BREAK (EVERY 2-3 HOURS) AND