2007 Dodge Caliber complaints

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER BUT NO DIAGNOSIS WAS MADE. THE CONTACT WAS MADE AWARE OF AN UNKNOWN MANUFACTURER'S RECALL RELATED TO THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.

SEAT BELTS COME UNBUCKLED AFTER THEY CLICK IN. THIS HAPPENS WITH DRIVER, PASSENGER, AND BACK SEAT SEAT BELTS. I HAVE REPORTED TO DEALERSHIP SEVERAL TIMES, AND THEY TELL ME THEY HAS NOT BEEN A RECALL ON THIS. I HAVE KIDS AND MY SAFETY TO WORRIED ABOUT, AND I DONT KNOW HOW ELSE TO ADDRESS THIS BEFORE IT BECOMES TOO LATE, AND IT ACTUALLY HAPPENS DURING AN ACCIDENT. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING AT VERY LOW SPEEDS AND DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE ABS WOULD ERRONEOUSLY ACTIVATE CAUSING THE BRAKING DISTANCE TO BE EXTENDED. THE CONTACT ALSO INDICATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE SENSOR LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURES. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT EXPERIENCED VARIOUS ELECTRICAL FAILURES. THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW WOULD OPEN, BUT WOULD NOT ROLL UP TO CLOSE ALLOWING RAIN TO ENTER INTO THE VEHICLE. ALSO, THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT WOULD NOT OPERATE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED FOR THE ELECTRICAL FAILURES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 156,000. UPDATED 12/30/14*CN THE CONSUMER WAS INVOLVED IN ACCIDENT AND THE VEHICLE WAS TOTALED. UPDATED 01/27/15

MY PASSENGER SIDE HEAD LIGHT WENT OFF AND ON FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS BEFORE FAILING TO COME ON AT ALL. BULB WAS CHECKED , THEN REPLACED. THE BATTERY CABLES WERE TAKEN OFF OVER NIGHT TO TRY TO RESET THE COMPUTER BUT NOTHING WORKED. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO PAY $900 + TO FIX A HEADLIGHT ON A CAR 7 YEARS OLD. WHY ARE THEY NOT ISSUING A RECALL ON A PROBLEM THAT SO MANY PEOPLE ARE HAVING? *TR

THE PASSENGER'S SIDE LOW BEAM AND THE PASSENGER SIDE BRAKE LIGHT HAVE GONE OUT. HIGH BEAM, REVERSE, & TURN SIGNALS ARE FINE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN AND WAS TOLD THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF OVER $1,000. THIS IS A KNOW ISSUE TO DODGE; A DESIGN FLAW DUE TO EXPOSING THE ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT TO THE ELEMENTS BY PLACING IT IN THE ENGINE BAY IN A HOUSING THAT NOT WATER TIGHT. I'VE BEEN TOLD THE WITH THE CALIBER IT IS NOT A QUESTION OF IF, BUT WHEN THE TIPM WILL GO OUT. THIS CREATES A SAFETY HAZARD BECAUSE ANY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COULD GO OUT WHILE DRIVING. DODGE SHOULD EITHER FIX THIS, RECALL THE PART, OR REIMBURSE OWNERS THAT HAVE ALREADY HAD TO PAY TO FIX THE ISSUE. *TR

MY CAR STARTED SPUTTERING AND WOULD NOT REACH SPEEDS OVER 10MPH. I PUT FLASHERS ON AND DROVE TO NEARBY MECHANIC. I LOOKED UP RECALLS AND SAFETY SITES, FOR THIS WAS VERY UNSAFE. I FOUND TO SITES FOR ACCELERATOR PEDAL STICKING SAFETY ISSUES DEALING WITH THE THROTTLE BOY. I AM PAYING FOR REPAIRS BUT ALSO LOOKING INTO WHY DODGE PUT ME IN THIS UNSAFE SITUATION. I HAVE A HEART CONDITION AND WAS VERY AFRAID DRIVING IT WHILE IT WAS SPUTTERING AND SHAKING AND NOT DRIVING SAFE AT ALL. *TR

THIS HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL DIFFERENT OCCASIONS, THERE IS NO RHYME OR REASON TO THIS PROBLEM. I WILL BE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AT BETWEEN 45 AND 65 MILES PER HOUR WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE LITTLE LIGHTNING BOLT WILL COME ON THE DASH PANEL AND CAR WILL LOOSE ALL POWER. SOMETIMES I'M ABLE TO PULL OFF THE ROAD SAFELY, HOWEVER THE STEERING ALSO LOCKS UP WHEN THIS HAPPENS. OTHER TIMES I WILL BE ON A TWO LANE HIGHWAY WITH NO SHOULDER, ON THESE OCCASIONS I TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND COAST AND RESTART THE VEHICLE. I WOULD SAY THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME AT LEAST A HUNDRED TIMES OR MORE. IT CAN HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES IN ONE TRIP AND THEN NOT HAPPEN FOR SEVERAL MONTHS. I HAVE HEARD OF SEVERAL OTHER VEHICLES BEING RECALLED FOR THIS SAME PROBLEM AND I AM WONDERING WHY HASN'T THIS BEEN DONE ON THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE SEEN THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED TO OTHER DODGE CALIBER OWNERS, DOES SOMEONE HAVE TO DIE FOR THIS TO BE FIXED. I CAN'T EVEN SELL THIS OR GIVE IT AWAY BECAUSE I DON'T WANT SOMEONE TO BE KILLED. I HAVE LEARNED HOW TO DEAL WITH THIS. GOD FORBID SOMEONE IS EVENTUALLY KILLED. *TR

VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN FRONTAL COLLISION WITH RUN OFF TIRE FROM A TRAILER BEING PULLED BY A PICKUP TRUCK. FRONTAL DRIVER SIDE RECEIVED DAMAGE TO ELECTRICAL WIRING HARNESS WHICH SHUT DOWN ONBOARD COMPUTER SYSTEM. UPON IMPACT THE VEHICLE SEIZED OPERATION AND SHUT DOWN AIR BAG DEPLOYMENT. STEERING CONTROL WAS LOST DUE TO HALF SHAFT JOINT WAS SHEERED APART. *TR

DRIVERS SIDE LOW BEAM ONLY WILL NOT WORK. HIGH BEAM WORKS LOW BEAM DOES NOT. *TR

LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT DON'T WORK. DEALER ASK FOR TIPM REPLACEMENT (9FUSE BOX). NOTICED THAT THIS PROBLEM WITH TOO MANY. IT IS A DESIGN FAILURE. SHOULD RECALL AND FIX OR REIMBURSE TO EVERYONE. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ARE AT HTTP://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T24900_DS494668. *TR

THE SUB-FRAME ON MY CALIBER IS RUSTED OUT. THIS IS ONLY 6 YRS OLD, AND DODGE SAY THERE IS NO WARRANTY.THERE WILL BE FATALITIES IF THIS IS NOT CORRECTED ON THESE VEHICLES. *TR

DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT IS OUT. GOT THE TIPM REPLACED FOR $700+. THAT'S WAY TOO EXPENSIVE FOR A HEADLIGHT. *TR

DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT AGAIN. AND THEN ONE DAY THE CAR WOULDN'T START. JUMPED THE CAR AND IT STARTED. WE JUST HAD THE TIPM REPLACED A FEW MONTHS AGO. THIS TIME THEY FOUND A BURNT TIPM CONNECTOR PIN. THEY REPLACED THE CONNECTOR AND COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE NO-START CONDITION. *TR

NOTICED THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT WAS OUT AGAIN WHILE I WAS DRIVING THROUGH A PARKING LOT. I PULLED INTO A PARKING SPOT AND TURNED THE LIGHTS OFF AND BACK ON AGAIN AND THEN BOTH HEADLIGHTS WERE WORKING. TOOK IT TO THE SHOP TODAY SINCE WE'VE HAD THE TIPM AND TIPM CONNECTOR REPLACED WITHIN THE LAST 6 MONTHS. THEY COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE HEADLIGHT NOT WORKING, BUT SAID THEY'D REPLACE THE TIPM SINCE IT'S STILL UNDER WARRANTY. WE'RE REALLY STARTING TO HATE THIS CAR. *TR

DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. TOOK IT TO SHOP TO GET IT REPLACED. IT WAS NOT THE LIGHTBULB. THEY GOT IT FIXED, BUT SAID THE TIPM MAY BE FAULTY AND IT WILL NEED REPLACED IF HEADLIGHT GOES OUT AGAIN. A DAY LATER, THE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT AGAIN. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE HAVING AN OIL CHANGE PERFORMED, THE TECHNICIAN NOTIFIED THE CONTACT THAT THE REAR SUBFRAME WAS RUSTED AND DETERIORATING. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE REAR SUBFRAME NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 150,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT FAILED TO ILLUMINATE. IN ADDITION, THE AIR BAG AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED AND THE HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS WOULD ONLY OPERATE INTERMITTENTLY. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 114,000.

MY TIPM WENT OUT ON MY CAR. IT'S BEEN OUT FOR THREE MONTHS NOW AND DODGE HAS NOT SENT THE PART FOR MY CAR YET. THEY ORIGINALLY SENT ME THE WRONG PART AND THEN I WAS TOLD THAT I WOULD RECEIVE THE CORRECT PART IN A WEEK. WELL, IT'S BEEN THREE FULL MONTHS NOW AND STILL NO PART. EVERY CALL TO DODGE IS SAYING THAT THE PART IF ON BACK ORDER. NO RECALL ON THIS PART AT ALL. I HAVE NO VEHICLE TO GET AROUND IN AND I'M LOST AS TO WHAT I SHOULD DO NOW. IF THERE'S A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT, I WOULD LOVE TO RECEIVE INFORMATION REGARDING IT. THIS IS AN ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE. *TR

MY PARTNER AND I WERE AT FIRESTONE TO HAVE A OIL CHANGE FOR OUR CAR DONE. ONE OF THE REPAIR GUYS CAME OUT TO TELL US OUR TIE RODS ON OUR CAR WERE LOSE AND WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED SOON. OUR CAR HAS ONLY A LITTLE OVER 61,000 MILES ON IT. TIE RODS ON A CAR ARE USUALLY REPLACED AT 120,000 TO 170,000 MILES. WE BOUGHT THIS CAR USED AT A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP WITH ONLY ONE PREVIOUS OWNER. THE CARFAX WERE PROVIDED AND THE PREVIOUS OWNER BABIED THE CAR. THERE WERE NO PREVIOUS CAR WRECKS AND WE HAVE HAD NO CAR WRECKS EITHER. WE ARE AT A DISBELIEF, AS THIS SERIOUS OF AN ISSUE ON A CAR SHOULD NOT HAVE TO BE REPLACED UNTIL IT IS EXPECTED. WE TAKE VERY GOOD CARE OF OUR CAR. WE CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE IT IS DUE AND REGULARLY SCHEDULE CHECK UPS TO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO MAJOR ISSUES. NOW WE ARE TAKING OUR CAR IN THIS WEEKEND TO GET THE TIE RODS DONE AND TO SEE IF ALSO CONTROL ARMS AND BALL JOINTS NEED TO BE REPLACED. FOR TIE RODS TO GO OUT WHILE DRIVING IS A SERIOUS ISSUE. WE COULD LOSE CONTROL OF THE CAR AND HURT OURSELVES OR SOMEONE ELSE. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE AND DODGE HAS A RESPONSIBILITY TO REPLACE MALFUNCTIONING PARTS OF THE CARS THIS IS HAPPENING TO. A TIE ROD SHOULD NOT GO OUT ON A CAR AT 61,000 MILES WHEN THE CAR IS TAKEN CARE OF. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHY A RECALL HAS NOT BEEN IN PLACE AND WHY DODGE HAS NOT COME FORWARD TO BE ACCOUNTABLE FOR THE ISSUES. THE TIE RODS WILL BE COSTING US $400 DOLLARS ALONE TO REPLACE AND IF BALL JOINTS AND CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED WELL OVER

MY TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) IS OUT! MY LEFT HEAD LIGHTS WONT WORK, MY HORN GOES OFF AT RANDOM TIMES, MY AIRBAG LIGHTS KEEP FLASHING, MY WIPER BLADES SOMETIMES DO NOT WORK. THE CAR ACTS LIKE ITS COMPLETELY POSSESSED! THIS IS A DEFINITE SAFETY ISSUE AND A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL! SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE SOMEONE DIES! *TR

SWAY BAR GASKETS & ENDLINKS ALONG WITH FRONT STRUTS & PLATES HAD TO GET REPLACED 2007 DODGE CALIBER 89K MILES LIGHTLY USED NOT AN ABUSED VEHICLE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 40 MPH, THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEAD LIGHT FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE WAS FAULTY AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 102,000.

WHEN I AM DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY FOR ANY DISTANCE OVER 30 MILES AND THE TEMPERATURE IS OVER 70 DEGREES OUTSIDE, THE TRANS OIL TEMP SIGNAL COMES ON AND I LOSS ALL POWER TO THE TRANSMISSION. THIS CAN BE A SERIOUS ISSUE, BECAUSE THIS HAPPEN ON THE FREEWAY / HIGHWAY. IT IS A CONTINUOUS PROBLEM. WHEN I INITIALLY TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD THAT SINCE THEY COULDN'T RECREATE IT, THEY COULDN'T FIX IT. THIS PROBLEM HAS CAUSED ME TO LIMIT TRIPS OR BORROW / RENT A CAR TO GO ANYWHERE OF ANY DISTANCE. I HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE FOR OVER TWO YEARS, BUT DIDN'T REALIZE HOW MANY OTHER DODGE CALIBER OWNERS WERE EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUE UNTIL RECENTLY. *TR

DRIVER SIDE HEADLAMP HAS GONE OUT DUE TO A TOTAL INTERGRATED POWER MODULE FAILURE. *TR

NO ACCIDENT THE TECH TOLD ME THAT THE CALIBER IS NOTORIOUS FOR HAVING A HORRIBLE SUSPENSION SYSTEM BECAUSE THE CAR IS TOO HEAVY FOR THE FRAME. REPLACED LOWER CONTROL ARM BARS, STRUTS SHOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACED AT 36,000 MILES, REPLACED INNER AND OUTER TIE ROD ENDS, TWICE WITHIN 1/1/2 YEAR, STRUTS STILL BAD. THE VEHICLE IS A ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. CHRYSLER JUST KEEPS IGNORING THESE ISSUES. SAID THEY ARE GOING TO EXTENDED THE WARRANTY ONLY ON THE CROSSMEMBERS, HOWEVER THAT PART DIRECTLY RELATES TO THE3 LOWER CONTROL ARM BARS AND I ALREADY REPLACE. HTTP://WWW.CONSUMERAFFAIRS.COM/AUTOMOTIVE/DODGE_CALIBER.HTML. *TR

I HAVE A 2007 DODGE CALIBER AND THE SUB FRAME IS SO RUSTED THROUGH THAT IT CRACKED WHILE MY SON WAS DRIVING IT. THANKFULLY HE WAS COMING HOME AND IT HAPPENED COUPLE MINUTES FROM HOME. I CANNOT BELIEVE A CAR, THAT IS ONLY 7 YEARS OLD, CAN RUST SO SEVERELY IN SUCH A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. I CANNOT BELIEVE DODGE HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL ON THIS. WHAT ARE THEY WAITING FOR? ARE THEY WAITING FOR ENOUGH PEOPLE TO GET INTO ACCIDENTS AND POSSIBLY KILL SOMEBODY, BEFORE THE RECALL THIS MANUFACTURE DEFECT? THEY MUST HAVE SOME REALLY GOOD BEAN COUNTERS. WHEN I STARTED LOOKING ON THE INTERNET, I WAS SHOCKED TO SEE SO MANY COMPLAINTS FROM PEOPLE WITH THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM AS I AM HAVING, AND THEIR CARS WERE YOUNGER THEN MINE. I WAS SHOCKED TO FIND OUT THAT THERE HAVE NOT BEEN ANY RECALLS ISSUED FOR THIS. *TR

HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR .THE CHARGING LIGHT WAS COMING ON.NOW THE HEAD LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING REPLACED BULBS STILL NOT WORKING NOT GETTING POWER TIPM ISSUE. *TR

2007 DODGE CALIBER. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO CROSSMEMBER RECALL AND ELECTRICAL WIRE DAMAGES. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, 19 DAYS LATER IT WAS DISCOVERED THE ENGINE COVER WAS MISSING. WHICH RESULTED IN RODENTS ACCESSING THE ELECTRICAL WIRES AND CHEWING THEM.

2007 DODGE CALIBER. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO ACCELERATOR PROBLEMS. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS REPLACED, BUT NO LUCK RESOLVING THE LOSS OF POWER PROBLEM. ALSO, THE ABS LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND A BELL WOULD START ALARMING WHEN THE ACCELERATOR DIDN'T REACT AFTER BEING PRESSED. THE CONSUMER BELIEVED THE THROTTLE BODY GEAR WORE THE SPROCKET DOWN ON THE LOWEST GEAR. *JB

THIS IS ANOTHER ISSUE I'VE HAD WITH THIS CAR SINCE I BOUGHT IT BACK AROUND THANKSGIVING 2006. THE CARS FUEL GAUGE DOES NOT GIVE AN ACCURATE READING. I'VE FOUND INFO ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ONLINE WHICH INVOLVES REPLACING THE FUEL SENDING UNIT HOSES OR SOMETHING. I CALLED CHRYSLER ABOUT THIS AND I CANT BELIEVE THEY DO NOT COVER THE COST OF THIS OBVIOUS DEFECT. TONS OF INFO ON THE WEB ABOUT THIS ONE TOO. I'VE LIVED WITH THIS ISSUE AS WELL AS MY NUMEROUS SUSPENSION PROBLEMS. THANKFULLY I KNOW MY CARS MPG'S SO I CAN CALCULATE WHERE MY FUEL TANK SHOULD BE USING THE TRIP ODOMETER LIKE I DO ON MY MOTORCYCLE - STILL VERY ANNOYING AND SHOULD BE FIXED FREE OF CHARGE. *TR

I'VE HAD NUMEROUS ISSUES WITH THE VEHICLE SUSPENSION SINCE I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE BRAND NEW (A 2007( AROUND THANKSGIVING 2006. THE FIRST ISSUE INVOLVED THE STEERING AND WAS TOLD THAT BOTH FRONT STRUTS, CONTROL ARMS AND OUTER TIE ROD ENDS WOULD REQUIRE REPLACEMENT - AT 6K MILES! THIS REPAIR ALSO INVOLVED REPLACING THE REAR BRAKE SHOES. THE STEERING WAS MAKING A GRINDING NOISE WHEN PARKING OR PARALLEL PARKING AT VERY LOW SPEEDS. I HAD THIS REPAIR PERFORMED USING PARTS I PURCHASED MYSELF AND A LOCAL MECHANIC I FOUND ON CRAIGSLIST WHO WAS WILLING TO DO THE LABOR FOR ABOUT $300 INCLUDING THE NECESSARY 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT. THE PARTS COST ABOUT $500 OR SO. ANOTHER ISSUE THAT HAS BEEN PRESENT SINCE I BROUGHT THE CAR HOME HAS BEEN THIS RATTLE AND CLUNK IN THE REAR SUSPENSION. IT SEEMS THAT NOBODY HAS BEEN ABLE TO PINPOINT WHAT THE EXACT PROBLEM MAY BE. I REPLACED THE REAR SHOCKS MYSELF THINKING THAT MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM, BUT IT STILL MAKES THIS ANNOYING NOISE. THE CAR HAS NO REAR SWAY BAR. I WAS TOLD IT'S NOT A CONTROL ISSUE AND HAVE "LIVED WITH IT" AS ANNOYING AS IT IS ALL THESE YEARS. IT SEEMS IT HAS NOT AFFECTED THE VEHICLE CONTROL, BUT IT'S A NUISSANCE. I'M GETTING READY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM MYSELF AS IT MUST BE THE REAR CONTROL ARMS OR TOE LINKS. THIS ALWAYS OCCURS WHILE DRIVING OVER AN UNEVEN SURFACE LIKE A GRAVEL DRIVEWAY OR A VERY BUMPY ROAD. IT ALSO SEEMS THAT THE FRONT TIE RODS APPEAR TO BE IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT YET AGAIN AS I INPSECTED THESE MYSELF AND NOTED THERES NO BOOT

BOUGHT CAR NEW IN 2007, SINCE THAT TIME HAVE HAD TO HAVE LEFT TIE ROD REPLACED 5 TIMES, MOST RECENT BEING THIS MONTH (6TH TIME), PREVIOUS 3 MONTHS PRIOR. THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM, BUT THERE HAS BEEN NO RECALL ON THIS CAR, I HAVE CALLED CHRYSLER AND REPORTED IT. THEY DID REIMBURSE ME A COUPLE YEARS AGO FOR PARTS FOR THE PREVIOUS THREE TIMES IT HAD TO BE REPLACED. THERE IS NO WARNING WHEN THE TIE ROD GOES, IT HAS BEEN FOUND ON MY YEARLY INSPECTIONS. I AM WORRIED THAT THE STEERING WILL GO SOMEDAY WHEN I AM DRIVING AND THERE WILL BE AN ACCIDENT, WHICH KEEPS ME ON EDGE WHENEVER I DRIVE IT; THERE IS 80,256 MILES ON IT, I DON'T ABUSE IT BY ANY MEANS. *TR

EVERY TIME I GO OVER A BUMP IT MAKE A HORRIBLE SQUEAKING/ JERKING MOTION I'VE LOOKED ON THERE AND IT SEEMS EVERYONE IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUES, I REPLACED THE STRUTS THINKING THAT WAS IT AND IT SEEMED THE SOUND GOT WORSE. I SHOULDN'T BE REPLACING ALL THIS THAT EARLY, THIS CAR HAS NOTHING BY HIGHWAY MILES. IT LITERALLY SOUNDS LIKE MY TIRES ARE GONNA FLY OFF. THIS REALLY WORRIES ME BECAUSE I HAVE SMALL CHILDREN. *TR

I HAVE 2007 DODGE CALIBER AND WAS DRIVING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WAS MAKE THE CAR SHUT DOWN ALL MY LIGHTS AND SIGNAL LIGHTS WAS NOT WORKING. I WAS ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND MY SIGNAL LIGHTS OR NOTHING WAS WORKING. *TR

THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT IS OUT. THE BULB WAS REPLACED AND IT STILL DOES NOT WORK. I WAS TOLD THAT THE TIPM NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ONLY HAVING ONE HEAD LIGHT. I GUESS WHEN I RECEIVE A CITATION FOR ONLY ONE HEADLIGHT THEN THE CITATION WILL BE MAILED TO DODGE FOR REIMBURSEMENT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT REMAINED ILLUMINATED AND THE HORN FAILED TO FUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 135,000.

THE CAR WOULD NOT START (LIGHTS WORKED, BUT ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OVER). AFTER REPLACING THE THROTTLE CABLE AND BOX, AS WELL AS SOME BROKEN WIRING, THE CAR STILL WOULD NOT START. THE MECHANIC THEN TOWED THE VEHICLE TO A DODGE DEALERSHIP, WHERE THE COMPUTER WAS RESET. THE CAR RAN FOR ANOTHER WEEK AFTER IT WAS FIRST "FIXED," AND THEN AGAIN DID NOT START (SAME PROBLEM AS BEFORE). ADDITIONALLY, THE LIGHT TO INDICATE THAT THE AIR BAGS WERE NOT FUNCTIONING TURNED ON PRIOR TO THE VEHICLE NOT STARTING. THIS IS MORE FRUSTRATING BECAUSE WE HAVE HAD EXTENSIVE ISSUES WITH THIS CAR (REPLACED ALL TIE RODS, BUSHINGS, CONTROL ARMS, HAVE A BROKEN DOOR FROM THE HINGE BREAKING, AND HAD MULTIPLE TIRES WEARING UNEVENLY DUE TO THE CAR'S SUSPENSION PROBLEMS) ALREADY, AND HAVE SUNK WELL OVER $6000 IN REPAIRS THIS YEAR ALONE. *TR

THE CAR WILL LOSE ALL POWER WHEN DRIVING, ALMOST AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE FIRST 2 TIMES IT HAPPENED WERE AT NIGHT (THE SECOND DURING A COMPLETE DOWNPOUR) AND SINCE I LOSE ALL POWER, THE HAZARD LIGHTS WON'T EVEN WORK SO I HAVE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR TO ALERT OTHER DRIVERS SO THAT THEY WON'T HIT ME!! SO DANGEROUS!! THE FIRST "FIX" WAS TO DO A FULL COMPUTER SYSTEM RE-FLASH ($300). THE SECOND "FIX" WAS TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE ($600). THE THIRD TIME THIS HAPPENED WAS 3 DAYS AFTER THE SECOND "FIX" AS I'D DRIVEN NOT EVEN 100 FEET FROM A PARKING SPOT, I TURNED THE VOLUME UP ON MY RADIO AND THE CAR DIED! THE 3RD "FIX" WILL BE UPWARDS OF $1500!!! DODGE KNOWS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. IN FACT, IT IS THE FAULTY PLACEMENT OF THE TIPM THAT HAS CAUSED THIS!! IT WAS PLACED IN A SPOT WHERE IT CONSTANTLY RECEIVES DAMAGE FROM WATER AND DIRT ON THE ROAD, WHICH CAUSES CORROSION AND THEN BAM! LOSS OF POWER!!!! DODGE HAS NOT CREATED ANY RECALLS FOR THIS WHICH IS UNACCEPTABLE! THIS PROBLEM, IF IT HAPPENS ON ANY HIGHWAYS OR IN MAJOR INTERSECTIONS, COULD KILL SOMEONE!!! I'VE DONE A TON OF RESEARCH AND THIS IS HAPPENING TO TOO MANY PEOPLE WITH THE SAME EXACT MODEL YEAR CAR!!! I'VE CONTACTED DODGE CORPORATION TO REQUEST A RECALL AND/OR FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE IN THIS MATTER AND THEY WON"T DO ANYTHING! I'VE OWNED THIS CAR FOR LESS THAN 3 MONTHS AND I'VE ALREADY HAD IT IN THE SHOP 3 TIMES FOR THIS PROBLEM. WHEN WILL DODGE REALIZE THAT THEY HAVE TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS? WHEN SOMEONE DIES????? I'

YOU CAN TURN THE CAR OFF BY BUMPING THE KEY/IGNITION WITH YOUR KNEE. LET'S SAY YOU ARE ON A LONG DRIVE AND SHIFT IN YOUR SEAT. IF YOU KNEE PUSHES INTO THE KEY, THE ENGINE WITH TURN OFF AND YOU'LL LOSE POWER. SEEMS TO BE MORE PRONE TO HAPPEN TO TALLER PEOPLE, AS THEIR KNEES ARE CLOSER TO THE IGNITION. ON THREE OCCASIONS THIS HAPPENED UNTIL I FIGURED OUT HOW IT HAPPENED AND AM NOW CAREFUL TO NOT BUMP IT. THE FIRST TIME WAS ON A CITY STREET AND THE SECOND TWO WERE ON AN INTERSTATE. IT CAN BE QUITE SCARY TO LOSE YOUR POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES, AND I FEEL VERY LUCKY TO HAVE BEEN ON A LONG, STRAIGHT SECTION OF INTERSTATE WITH LITTLE TRAFFIC. *TR

HAVE HAD SPORADIC ELECTRICAL ISSUES FOR THE LAST FEW YEARS, CHALKED IT UP TO NORMAL WEAR & TEAR. AFTER LOOKING AT OTHER TESTIMONIES ONLINE, BEGINNING TO REALIZE THE ISSUES I'VE HAD ARE SIMILAR TO THOSE OF OTHER CALIBER OWNERS. JUST REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR IN JUNE 2014 AND NOW CAR IS SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS BEEN ON FOR 3 WEEKS AND WILL RANDOMLY NOT BE ON FOR A SERIES OF DRIVES ONLY TO COME BACK ON AGAIN. DASHBOARD LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON ALL THE TIME, I'D SAY MORE OFTEN THAN NOT NIGHT DRIVING IS DONE WITH NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS. I CHANGE HEADLIGHTS & TAILLIGHTS FREQUENTLY. ABOUT TO HEAD TO AUTOZONE NOW TO HAVE IT HOOKED UP TO DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE TO SEE IF ANY CODES COME UP FOR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. CHRYSLER NEEDS TO DO A RECALL ASAP OR THERE WILL BE SEVERAL PEOPLES LIVES AT RISK, INCLUDING MY ENTIRE FAMILY SEEING AS HOW THIS IS OUR MAIN VEHICLE. *TR

EVERY TIME WHEN I WOULD BE GOING OVER ANY KIND OF BUMP,DRIVEWAYS AT SPEED BUMPS OR JUST DRIVING THE CAR. I WOULD ALWAYS HERE SHAKING OR RUMBLING NOISES IN MY FRONT SUSPENSION. RECENTLY I HAD TO GET A CLUTCH INSTALLED IN MY CALIBER. AND MY MECHANIC INFORMING ME THAT MY CONTROL ARMS WERE COMING LOOSE. WHICH MEANS THAT IF IT PERSISTS THE WHEELS CAN COME OFF SO THAT'S THE SOUND I AM HEARING THE WHEELS SHAKING WHEN IT GOES OVER BUMPS!. AND THEN HE FOLLOWED BY SAYING WITH DODGE CALIBERS CONTROL ARMS ALWAYS SEEMS TO GO BAD EARLY IN THE LIFE OF THE CAR NO MATTER HOW YOU DRIVE. I ONLY HAVE ABOUT 91,000 MILES ON MY CAR WHICH ARE ABOUT 90% HIGHWAY MILES. I USED TO DRIVE FOR UPS DROVE TRUCKS FOR LIVING WHEN HE COMES TO CHANGING GEARS AND DRIVING THE CAR I AM EXTREMELY CAPABLE. SO FOR A CLUTCH TO GO BACK IN JUST SEVEN YEARS IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS. MY PARENTS HAD A 1987 VOLVO STATION WAGON WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. AND WE NEVER HAD TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS!!! HEY DODGE THIS IS HOW A CAR IS SUPPOSED TO WORK!! YOU BUY IT WORKS TILL YOU SELL IT. WITH A FEW MAINTENANCE FIXES DOWN THE LINE. (NOT CONTROL ARMS TRANSMISSION AND ELECTRICAL AND GAS PEDALS.) SO FOR CONTROL ARMS GOING BAD AT THIS TIME IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS. I WENT ON OTHER FORUMS OF PEOPLE WHO HAS THE SAME CAR AS MINE IN ABOUT 600 PEOPLE OR THOUSAND PEOPLE WERE SAYING EXACTLY THE SAME THING BUT THEY HAD TO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY TO GET THESE THINGS FIXED. I UNDERSTAND THAT THINGS GO BAD CARS OVER TIME BUT THIS IS EXTREMELY TOO EARLY.

MY DRIVERS SIDE DRIVING LIGHT WAS OUT SO I BOUGHT A NEW BULB. THAT DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM SO I LOOKED ONLINE AND SAW EVERYONE WAS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AND IT SEEMS TO BE THE TIPM WHICH IS AROUND 1000.00 TO FIX. IF WE ARE ALL HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM I WOULD THINK IT'S SOMETHING THAT DODGE SHOULD BE TAKING CARE OF NOT THE CONSUMER! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE WAS CONCERNED THAT THE REAR LOWER SUB FRAME COULD FAIL DUE TO A FAILURE THAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER EXPERIENCED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, WHO CONFIRMED THAT THE SUB FRAME WAS RUSTED AND CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 78,000.

TPIM MALFUNCTION, AFFECTING HEADLIGHTS AND DASHBOARD LIGHTING. *TR

WHILE TURNING LEFT, I STARTED TO NOTICE AN OCCASIONAL CLUNK WHICH SEEMED TO BE COMING FROM THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE. WITHIN A DAY, IT TURNED INTO A CONSTANT CLUNKING AS I WAS DRIVING, EVEN WHILE GOING STRAIGHT. IT WAS OBVIOUSLY NOT SAFE AND WE TOOK IT TO THE SHOP. AS OTHERS HAVE DISCOVERED, MY ENTIRE UNDER CARRIAGE IS RUSTING AWAY. I ALSO HAD TO REPLACE BALL JOINTS AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS AT AROUND 50,000 MILES. THEY SAY THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE AGAIN. THE FUEL PUMP HAD TO BE REPLACED A COUPLE MONTHS AGO. THE TIRES NEED MORE FREQUENT REPLACEMENT AS WELL DUE TO THE CONTROL ARM ISSUES. SERIOUS PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE AND THERE SHOULD BE MORE RECALLS THAN JUST THE RECENT ONE. SPECIFICALLY, WITH THE CONTROL ARMS, THE MECHANIC SAID HE'S SEEN THEM FAIL AT UNDER 25,000 MILES. ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS! *TR

I WAS DRIVING AND THE CAR STALLED OUT AND A CAR ALMOST HIT ME. I FOUND OUT LATER THAT THE THROTTLE BODY MESSED UP AND SHUT MAY CAR DOWN.. DODGE SHOULD REALLY RECALL THIS. *TR

SPEEDOMETER WENT FROM 70 TO 0 THAN CAR DIED LOSING ALL POWER AND WOULD NOT RESTART. THIS PROBLEM WAS DIAGNOSED AS THE STARTER THIS IS THE FIFTH STARTER IN 1 YEAR. *JS

THE VEHICLE HAS HAD THE IGNITION SWITCH SLIP FROM "ON" TO "ACCESSORY" TWICE IN THE LAST FEW YEARS. THE FIRST TIME WAS ON I-95 JUST NORTH OF RICHMOND, VA. I WAS DRIVING, SHIFTED MY KNEE (WITH A LONG KEYCHAIN), AND THE SWITCH SLIPPED. I WAS UNABLE TO CONTROL THE CAR AT THAT POINT. I HIT THE EMERGENCY LIGHTS BUTTON AND TRIED TO RE-START THE CAR. I WAS ABLE TO RE-START THE CAR AND CONTINUE DRIVING WITHOUT ACCIDENT OR INJURY. THE SECOND TIME WAS ON EDWARDS MILL ROAD IN RALEIGH, NC. AT THAT POINT, I WAS NOT DRIVING WITH THE LONGER KEYCHAIN, BUT A SHORTER ONE WITH ONLY FOUR KEYS, AND THE SWITCH SLIPPED AGAIN. BECAUSE IT HAD HAPPENED BEFORE, I KNEW WHAT I NEEDED TO DO WAS TO RE-START THE CAR, AND I WAS ABLE TO DO SO SUCCESSFULLY WITHOUT ACCIDENT OR INJURY. BECAUSE AT THE TIME, I DIDN'T THINK MUCH OF IT, AND BECAUSE I HAD NO CONCEPT THAT IT COULD HAVE BEEN A BIGGER ISSUE, AND BECAUSE THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT, I DID NOT STOP TO WRITE DOWN OR REMEMBER THE DATES/TIMES OF THESE INCIDENTS. I KNOW THAT THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS AT NIGHT; THE SECOND INCIDENT WAS DURING THE DAY. I REMEMBER WHERE I WAS BECAUSE I HAVE A PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORY; HOWEVER, BECAUSE I DIDN'T STOP TO LOOK AT THE DATE OR TIME THEN OR LATER, I DON'T RECALL EXACT DATES AND TIMES. MY BEST GUESS, BASED ON MY TRAVEL SCHEDULE THROUGH RICHMOND, VA, IS THAT IT TOOK PLACE WITHIN THE LAST THREE YEARS, AND THEN THE SECOND INCIDENT SOMETIME AFTER THAT. I THOUGHT NOTHING OF THESE INCIDENTS EVEN WHEN THE GM RECALLS STARTED HAPPENING, BECAUSE

I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE WITH THE TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE.) FIRST THE A/C BLEW, THEN THE ALTERNATOR BLEW, THEN THE WINDOWS STARTED MALFUNCTIONING. NOW THE CAR SLOWS ITSELF ON THE INTERSTATE AND WILL NOT MAINTAIN SPEED. THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY EITHER. THIS CAR HAS MAJOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES AND APPARENTLY IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF CAR. THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL ON THIS VEHICLE. *TR

THE CAR WOULD NOT STEER WITH ANY CONTROLLABILITY. UPON 2 DIFFERENT INDEPENDENT MECHANIC INSPECTIONS WE DISCOVERED THE LOWER BALL JOINT WAS SO WORN/LOOSE IF I HAD CONTINUED TO DRIVE I COULD EASILY HAVE LOST A TIRE. THE ENTIRE UNDERFRAME IS CORRODED AND I WAS TOLD IT WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED SOON OR IT WOULD ALSO BECOME A SAFETY HAZARD IN THE NEAR FUTURE. DODGE HAS TO BE AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM BECAUSE AFTER CONDUCTING SOME RESEARCH ON MY OWN I HAVE FOUND HUNDREDS OF 2007 CALIBER OWNERS WITH ALMOST IDENTICAL ISSUES TO MINE. HOPING NO ONE GETS HURT BEFORE THEY REALIZE WHAT A SERIOUS RISK THIS TYPE OF LOW QUALITY MANUFACTURING IS... *TR