2007 Dodge Caliber complaints

MY CAR STARTED MAKING A NOISE AND IDLING HIGH LAST YEAR. IT STARTED CUTTING ITSELF OFF AND EVENTUALLY IT WOULDN'T START. I REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY. NOW LESS THAN A YEAR LATER 2014, THE LOW LIGHTS DON'T WORK AND IT IS STARTING TO MAKE THE SAME NOISE AND CUT ITSELF OFF. NOW I'M BEING TOLD ITS THE TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT WHILE HAVING MAINTENANCE PERFORMED, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT BOTH TIE RODS AND BALL JOINTS WERE DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED FOR THE SAME DEFECT ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS BUT THE PROBLEM RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE DEFECT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 19,000.

A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK AND TURNED ON MY SIGNAL LIGHT TO MAKE A TURN. WHEN I TURNED MY SIGNAL LIGHT ON I NOTICED THAT THE INTERIOR OVERHEAD LIGHT WENT ON. I FOUND IT STRANGE AND THOUGHT MY DOOR MAY HAVE BEEN OPENED. A FEW DAYS LATER ON MY WAY TO WORK THE SIGNAL LIGHTS WERE NO LONGER WORKING. THIS IS WHERE MY SERIOUS CONCERNS BEGAN. I HAVE A 30 MINUTE COMMUTE TO WORK AND SWITCH LANES OR MAKE TURNS QUITE OFTEN EN ROUTE. IT GETS WORSE. AFTER A LONG DAY AT WORK I RAN OUT TO MY VEHICLE TO AVOID GETTIN SOAKED IN THE RAIN AND WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO TURN ON MY WIPERS I WAS INFURIATED TO FIND OUT THEY WERE NO LONGER WORKING EITHER. NEEDLESS TO SAY THE VEHICLE IS PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY. FOG LIGHTS DON'T WORK, TURN SIGNALS, WIPERS AND HIGHBEAMS ARE NO LONGER WORKING. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE FRONT WHEELS BECAME UNSTABLE AS THE VEHICLE SHOOK VIOLENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THE FRONT TIE RODS AND BALL JOINTS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 110,000.

MY WIFE AND DAUGHTER WERE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY WHEN THE CAR WITH NO WARNING SHUT OFF ALMOST CAUSING AN ACCIDENT THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TIME THE CAR HAS GAVE US PROBLEMS WITH SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING OR NOT STARTING AT ALL, THE LAST INCIDENT THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND I WAS OUT OF TOWN SO SHE HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THE SAID THERE WAS A MOUSE BEST UNDER THE AIR FILTER CAUSING IT NOT TO START, I AM A CERTIFIED AUTOMOTIVE AND DIESEL TECHNICIAN I SERVICE THIS CAR FREQUENTLY AND THERE HAS NEVER BEEN SIGNS OF MOUSE INTRUSION THIS LAST INCIDENT WAS A LITTLE OVER A WEEK AGO WHEN THE CAR STALLED AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS SO I TRAILERED THE CAR TO THE SHOP I AM EMPLOYED WITH AND DIAGNOSED IT MYSELF , I FOUND SEVERAL RECALLS ON THE TIPM MODULE FOR THE 07 DODGE CALIBER ON THE ONLINE REPAIR WEBSITE ALLDATA SO I CALLED MULTIPLE DODGE DEALERS ASKING IF THE CAR WAS DUE FOR A RECALL AND THEY SAID THERE WERE NEVER ANY RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE I DON'T FEEL LIKE I SHOULD HAVE TO PAY 300$ FOR A MODULE THAT CHRYSLER HAS RECALLED AND IS CAUSING THOUSAND OF PEOPLE TO BE STRANDED AND INJURED,NOT TO MENTION HAVING TO WAIT WEEKS FOR THE MODULE BECAUSE SO MANY IF THEM ARE ON BACK ORDER NEEDLESS TO SAY THIS HAVE BEEN A VERY AGITATING SITUATION. *TR

JUST FILING A COMPLAINT ABOUT SUBSTANDARD MANUFACTURING OF MY VEHICLE CROSS MEMBER PARTS. SUBSTANDARD MATERIAL WAS USED AND SEVERE CORROSION IS A RESULT. CHRYSLER HAS A RECALL FOR REPAIR. COULD POSE SAFETY ISSUES IF PARTS RUST COMPLETELY THROUGH. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE BEING SERVICED, THE TECHNICIAN DISCOVERED THAT THE FRONT SECTION OF THE SUB FRAME WAS CORRODED AND RUSTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 94,000.

TURNED THE WHEEL AND HEARD A BUMP BY THE TIRE. STOPPED AND SEEN THAT THE SHOCKS WAS TOUCHING THE TIRE ON THE LEFT SIDE. *TR

I HAVE A 2007 DODGE CALIBER RT. THIS CAR HAS 52000 MILES AT 7 YEARS OLD. MY CAR SITS IN A GARAGE AND IS WELL MAINTAINED. I RECENTLY REPLACED THE TIRES ON THE CAR AND FOUND THAT BOTH BALL JOINTS WERE IN NEED OF REPLACING TO THE POINT THAT THE TIRES COULDN'T GET BALANCED. I DON'T THINK THAT THIS IS SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN ON A CAR WITH 52000 MILES. *TR

MY SON WAS DRIVING MY 2007 DODGE CALIBER ON MAY 14, 2014 AND THE STRUT BROKE IN HALF. HE SAID THAT HE WAS ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHICH IS A 65 MPH ZONE, HEARD A RATTLE NOISE AND THEN A THUMP. HE WAS NOT SURE IF HE HIT A POT HOLE OR SOMETHING ELSE IN THE ROAD THAT WOULD CAUSE THE STRUT TO BREAK. WHEN I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO MY MECHANIC HE STATED THAT HE CONTACTED CHRYSLER/DODGE FOR THE REPLACEMENT STRUT AND WAS TOLD THE PART WAS ON BACK ORDERED FOR 1-2 WEEKS AND THERE WAS ABOUT 35 OF THEM WAITING ALREADY. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THIS IS A PART THAT IS AN ISSUE FOR THIS CAR BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY ON BACK ORDER AT THIS TIME. MY MECHANIC WAS ABLE TO FIND ONE THOUGH A JUNK YARD AND IT WAS REPLACED AT A COST OF $125 FOR THE PART. THANK YOU. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE GOING AT 70-75 MPH AND ALL OF A SUDDEN MY CRUISE CONTROL SHUT OFF. THIS WASN'T THE MAIN ISSUE THOUGH, AS I TRIED TO ACCELERATE, IT WOULDN'T WORK AND ALMOST FELT LIKE I WAS STUCK IN NEUTRAL. LUCKILY I WAS CLOSE TO MY EXIT WHEN THIS HAPPENED. AS I STARTED TO ACCELERATE OFF OF THE RAMP TO THE HIGHWAY, IT WENT VERY SLOW (NO MORE THAN 5 MPH DURING THE TURN) AND I WAS LUCKILY ABLE TO MAKE IT BACK HOME. WHEN I TRIED TO START THE CAR AGAIN, IT ACTED LIKE AN OLD LAWNMOWER TRYING TO START AND SOUNDED AWFUL. A FEW HOURS LATER I CALLED A REPAIR SHOP AND WHEN I WENT TO START IT, IT ACTED LIKE EVERYTHING WAS FINE OTHER THAN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STILL BEING ON. I WAS TOLD SOME SORT OF SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND WILL BE GETTING IT REPAIRED SOON FOR AROUND 75 BUCKS. *TR

WHEN I WAS DRIVING IN TOWN AT SPEEDS AROUND 25-40 MPH I KEPT HEARING A CLICKING NOISE BENEATH THE DRIVERS SEAT, ESPECIALLY WHEN I MADE TURNS. I TOOK IT TO A SHOP AND THEY LIFTED IT UP. TURNS OUT THE ENTIRE SUSPENSION CARRIAGE WAS RUSTING AND ROTTING. THE CLICKING NOISE I WAS HEARING WAS RUSTY PIECES OF METAL RUBBING AGAINST ONE ANOTHER. WE TOOK IT TO A DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THAT THE AC CONDENSATE LINE WAS DIRECTED TO THE SUBFRAME/UNDERCARRIAGE OF THE CALIBER. THE WATER WAS POOLING AND CAUSING IT TO RUST. I'M GRATEFUL WE FOUND OUT ABOUT IT WHEN WE DID INSTEAD OF HAVING THE WHOLE BOTTOM OF THE CAR FALL OUT FROM UNDER US WHEN WE WERE GOING AT A HIGH SPEED. THIS SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING TO MANY OF THE DODGE CALIBERS RIGHT AROUND 7 YEARS. WE HAVE PHOTOS OF THE DAMAGE. UNBELIEVABLE. *TR

I NOTICED A PERIODIC CLUNKING SOUND COMING FROM UNDERNEATH. UPON INSPECTION BY THE DEALER, THE K-BAR OR K-FRAME, WHICH IS THE PART THAT HOLDS THE FRONT SUSPENSION TOGETHER, WAS FOUND TO HAVE COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH. IT IS COMPLETELY ROTTEN. CHRYSLER WAS CONTACTED AND WILL NOT HELP WITH THUS $1400 REPAIR. THE VEHICLE HAS ONLY 64000 MILES ON IT. I HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE THIS PART IN ANY VEHICLE I HAVE EVER OWNED. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR AN UNRELATED REPAIR WHEN HE NOTICED THAT THE ENTIRE SUB FRAME WAS COMPLETELY CORRODED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 88,595.

I HAVE A 2007 SXT CALIBER, BOUGHT IT BRAND NEW IN 07, BUT NOW I HAVE THIS ISSUE. MY HUSBAND DROVE THE CAR TO WORK, ON HIS WAY HOME HE STOPPED AND FILLED THE TANK UP THEN HE WENT TO EAT AT P.HUT. AFTER WE AT HE WENT TO START IT AND NOTHING. IT WOULD ACT LIKE IT WANTED TO, BUT WOULDN'T. WELL TODAY WE LOOK IT UP ON WHAT IT COULD POSSIBLY BE AND SOME SAID IT WAS CAMSHAFT AND CRANKSHAFT SENSORS. WELL WE REPLACED THEM AND STILL NOTHING. SO WE DECIDED TO TAKE THE FUEL PUMP OUT AND BEHOLD THE CONNECTORS GOING INTO THE FUEL PUMP WERE FRIED. WHICH COULD'VE CAUGHT FIRE. CALLED DODGE TO SEE IF THEY HAD ANY RECALLS AND NO THEY DON'T THEY SAID. I TOLD THEM I WASN'T THE ONLY ONE WHO HAS HAD THIS ISSUE. THEY SAID WELL TAKE IT TO THE DEALER BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIRS, SINCE THE CAR IS OLDER AND HAS SOME MILES ON IT. MY 2 CHILDREN SIT IN THE BACK OF THIS CAR AND NOW KNOWING THAT IT COULD'VE STARTED FIRE WITH THEM IN IT, REALLY PISSES ME OFF AND THERE'S NOTHING THEY ARE GONNA DO ABOUT IT. REALLY???? I WILL BE GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP AND SHOWING THEM WHAT HAPPENED TO FUEL PUMP CONNECTORS AND ASKING WHAT THEY ARE GONNA DO ABOUT IT. IT'S NOT LIKE I'M TAKING THE FUEL PUMP OUT AND BURNING IT UP. THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED AT AND TAKEN CARE OF BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PASSENGER'S SIDE LOW BEAM FAILED AND DAYS LATER, THE DRIVER'S SIDE LOW BEAM ALSO FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO FIND A PROBLEM. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 99,621 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 105,851.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HAVING MAINTENANCE PERFORMED, HE WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE ENGINE CRADLE WAS COMPLETELY CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 153,000.

WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM THE AIRPORT ON THE HIGHWAY, MY CAR SHUT DOWN UNEXPECTEDLY. MY ELECTRONIC THROTTLE LIGHT ALONG WITH MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. MY POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES SEEMED NOT TO FUNCTION AS I HAD TO MUSCLE THE CAR TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THANK GOODNESS IT WAS LATE AT NIGHT AND TRAFFIC WAS AT A MINIMUM. THE CAR SPUTTERED SO BAD IT SHUT DOWN ON THE ROAD AFTER I PULLED OVER. AFTER ABOUT 15 MINUTES, I STARTED THE CAR AND LIMPED IT HOME. COULDN'T GET THE CAR TO DO MORE THAN 10MPH. USED MY FLASHERS THE ENTIRE WAY HOME. *TR

WATER GOT INTO TAIL LIGHT, FROZE AND MADE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INOPERABLE. *TR

DROVE HOME FROM WORK PARKED MY CAR NEXT MORNING IT WOULDN'T START. HAD BATTERY POWER AND CRANKED WHEN I TURNED THE KEY BUT WOULD NOT KICK OVER TO START. TOWED TO MECHANIC. HE SAID THERE WASN'T ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT, HE CLEANED THE SPARK PLUGS, WEATHER WARMED UP AND CAR WORKED AGAIN. THIS HAPPENED TWICE, HE STATED I NEEDED TO TAKE IT TO DODGE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE COMPUTER REPROGRAMMED (THAT THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR MY CAR TYPE) TWO DAYS LATER, DRIVING TO WORK ALL THE LIGHTS WENT ON AND THE STEERING FROZE, NOT ABLE TO TURN LEFT OR RIGHT. I WAS ABLE TO EXIT AND PARK CAR WITHOUT INCIDENT NOW HAVING IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. *TR

IR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR FAILED AND WAS REPLACED UNDER EXTENDED WARRANTY IN JANUARY 2013. NEW A/C COMPRESSOR INSTALLED, BUT A/C CLUTCH FELL OFF FOURTEEN MONTHS LATER AS I WAS TURNING A CORNER. I WAS TOLD THAT BECAUSE OF THE COMPRESSOR FAILURE, (WHICH ONE WAS NOT REFERENCED) THERE ARE METAL SHAVINGS IN THE A/C COOLANT LINES AND THE ENTIRE SYSTEM NEEDS REPLACEMENT. SERVICE ADVISER STATED THAT HE HAS RECEIVED MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS OF THIS AND THAT I WILL BE UNABLE TO USE VEHICLE DEFROST DUE TO THIS AND IT IS THE SNOWIEST TIME OF THE YEAR. DODGE WILL NOT REPLACE, AS VEHICLE AND PART ARE NOW BOTH OUT OF WARRANTY. REPLACEMENT PART ONLY UNDER WARRANTY FOR 12 MONTHS, BUT HAVE NOT HAD TO ENGAGE EITHER DEFROST OR A/C IN THE PAST 8 MONTHS UNTIL TWO WEEKS AGO, WHEN THE REPLACEMENT FAILED AND THE CLUTCH BROKE OFF. USING THE DEFROST COULD RESULT IN THE UNIT OVERHEATING, CAUSING AN ENGINE FIRE OR OTHER FAILURE.

DROVE HOME FROM WORK AT MIDNIGHT, PARKED MY CAR WOKE UP IN THE MORNING AND VEHICLE WOULDN'T KICK OVER. HAD BATTERY POWER AND IT CRANKED WHEN I TURNED THE KEY BUT WOULD KICK OVER TO START. TOWED TO DEALERSHIP FOR DIAGNOSIS. *TT

THE FIRST SIGNS OF A PROBLEM WERE A CLICKING SOUND WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL. IT DID NOT HAPPEN EVERY TIME, AND I DID NOTHING ABOUT IT UNTIL DECEMBER, WHEN A PORTION OF A STRAP WITH ELECTRICAL WIRE EMBEDDED BEGAN TO PROTRUDE FROM THE UPPER STEERING COLUMN. IT SOON BEGAN TO BE A NUISANCE AS THE PORTION GREW LONGER AND WOULD CATCH ON THE STEERING POSITION ADJUSTMENT KNOB. I GREW ALARMED WHEN THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON, AND TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID IT WAS A BROKEN CLOCKSPRING, AND THEY HAD TO ORDER THE PART. IT COST ME OVER $300 TO GET THIS REPAIRED, AND NOW I SEE TOYOTA IS DOING A RECALL FOR THIS EXACT SAME THING, A SPIRAL CABLE ASSEMBLY THAT BECOMES DAMAGED FROM TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL. IT IS A POOR DESIGN. TOYOTA IS REPLACING THIS WITH A BETTER PART, BUT I DO NOT THINK DODGE DID THAT, AND I HAD TO PAY TO GET THIS REPLACED. I AM CONCERNED IT COULD HAPPEN AGAIN, AND BELIEVE THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL BY DODGE ALSO. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE SUB FRAME WAS RUSTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC WHO CONFIRMED THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

WHILE ACCELERATING ON THE HIGHWAY ON-RAMP, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL STUCK AND THE VEHICLE CONTINUED ACCELERATING IN SPITE OF THE BRAKES BEING APPLIED. I WAS ONLY ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE AFTER TURNING OFF THE IGNITION WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STILL IN MOTION. THERE WAS A RECALL PERFORMED ON THIS VEHICLE IN 2010 TO PREVENT A STICKY ACCELERATOR PEDAL, BUT APPARENTLY THE SAME ISSUE THE RECALL WAS INTENDED TO PREVENT STILL EXISTS TODAY. *TR

WHEN DRIVING ON HIGHWAY CAR LOOSES POWER BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF DEALER STATES IT'S NOTHING GET OIL CHANGE FROM DEALER STATED NOTHING IS WRONG. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT FAILED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE ENTIRE COMPUTER NEEDED TO BE RESET. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 115,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 117,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HAVING MAINTENANCE PERFORMED, HE WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE ENGINE CRADLE WAS COMPLETELY CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 85,000.

DRIVING AT 35 MPH, CAR SUDDENLY LOST POWER AND LIGHTNING SYMBOL APPEARED ON DASH. DROVE IT HOME ON SIDE STREETS AT VERY LOW SPEED (WOULD NOT ACCELERATE PAST 10-15 MPH) PUT A CODE READER ON THE CAR AND CAME UP WITH CODE P2119. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION, AND COULD VERY EASILY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT THAT COULD RESULT IN A FATALITY. *TR

I WAS TOLD BY MEINEKE THAT MY ENGINE'S SUBFRAME WAS SO CORRODED THAT THE CAR WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT IT WAS VERY UNUSUAL FOR A CAR THIS YOUNG TO HAVE A CORRODED SUBFRAME. I LEARNED FROM ONLINE RESEARCH THAT CORRODED SUBFRAMES ARE A FREQUENT COMPLAINT WITH DODGE CALIBERS, POSSIBLY BECAUSE OF THE PLACEMENT OF THE AIR CONDITIONING UNIT. THERE WAS NO RECALL. I IMMEDIATELY REPLACED THE SUBFRAME AT A COST OF APPROXIMATELY $1,000. *TR

DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 55 BACK TO PEORIA,IL . CAR INTERIOR AND DASH LIGHTS FLASHING AND SURGING. SMELT SOMETHING BURNING. CAR DIED, LUCKY GOT TO SHOULDER OF FREEWAY. HAD IT TOWED FROM PONTIAC, IL. TO FIRESTONE IN PEORIA,IL. *TR DIAGNOSIS, HOLE IN A/C COMPRESSOR (POSSIBLE PISTONS BLEW THROUGH CASING), SHORTED STARTER, FRIED BATTERY

MARCH 12, 2014 MY MILEAGE WAS 56700 MILES I HAD TO HAVE MY LOWER BALL JOINTS REPLACED BECAUSE THEY HAD BOTH FAILED. THE LAST ISSUE I HAD WITH STEERING & SUSPENSION WAS IN MARCH 2012. MY MILEAGE AT THE TIME OF THE DIAGNOSIS BY THE DODGE DEALERSHIP WAS 34,898 AND I NEEDED TO HAVE THE PASSENGER SIDE TIE ROD REPLACED. THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS REPORTS TO THE NHTSA/ FEDERAL GOVERNMENT REGARDING BOTH THE TIE RODS AND BALL JOINTS OF THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER. I HAVE DONE RESEARCH AND HAVE FOUND THAT THE TIE RODS AND BALL JOINTS ARE KNOWN TO DODGE TO BE COMMON FAILING PARTS ON THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHEN I REPLACED THE TIE ROD ON 2012 I DID NOTIFY DODGE DIRECTLY, MY VEHICLE WARRANTY HAD EXPIRED AT THAT TIME AND DODGE CLOSED MY CASE AND I WAS BRUSHED OFF. DODGE STOPPED REPLYING TO MY EMAILS AND WOULD NOT RETURN MY VOICEMAILS. I HAVE FOUND NO FATALITIES IN MY RESEARCH SO FAR, BUT IT IS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME WITH THIS VEHICLE DESIGN. HOW MANY REPORTS ARE REQUIRED BEFORE AN INVESTIGATION IS LAUNCHED. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND ATTENTION IN THIS MATTER. *TR

THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES BEFORE YESTERDAY. WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON, AND THE CAR GO INTO A "LIMP" MODE (VERY LITTLE POWER), AND EVEN AT FULL PEDAL, IT SLOWLY SLOWS DOWN. HAVING HAD IT HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE, I LEARNED TO PULL OVER, AND SHUT OFF THE CAR, AND LET IT SET FOR A FEW MINUTES. SOMETIMES TIMES THIS IS NOT EASY, OR SAFE TO DO. THEN IT IS HARD TO RESTART, BUT WILL DRIVE SOMEWHAT BETTER. THIS ALLOWS ME TO GET TO A PLACE THAT I CAN SHUT IT OFF FOR AN EXTENDED AMOUNT OF TIME (1/2 HOUR), AND THEN IT RUNS MORE LIKE NORMAL, BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAY ON FOR SEVERAL DAYS. AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OUT, IT IS RUNNING NORMAL AGAIN UNTIL THE NEXT TIME. SO FAR, THIS HAS NOT CAUSED AN ACCIDENT, BUT I'M SURE SOMEBODY WILL BE HURT OR KILLED BEFORE THIS GETS RECALLED. GOOD LUCK FOLLOW DRIVERS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED WHEN THE LIGHTS ARE TURNED ON THE DRIVER SIDE LIGHTS FAIL TO ILLUMINATE. THE HIGH BEAMS ARE THE ONLY FUNCTIONAL LIGHTS WHENEVER THE FAILURE OCCURRED. THE DRIVERS SIDE HEAD LIGHT ALSO MALFUNCTIONED. THIS FAILURE CONTINUED TO OCCUR FOR THE PAST TWO MONTHS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO INDICATED THAT A T.I.M.P. PART NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 61,055. VF

HEAD LIGHT WENT OUT, AFTER CHECKING THE BULB AND FOUND IT GOOD. DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND I NEED TO INVEST $1200.00 TO REPLACE THE TIPM. HEAD LIGHTS ARE A REQUIRED SERVICE ON ANY AUTOMOBILE TO DRIVE ON PUBLIC HIGHWAY. WHEN IS DODGE GOING TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY AND ISSUE A RECALL AND SOLUTION TO FIX THIS PROBLEM BEFORE ANY LOSS OF LIFE IS INCURRED. BY THEIR KNOWING THIS PROBLEM EXISTS THEY ARE OPEN A LARGE LAW SUIT WHEN AN INJURY OCCURS. *TR

I SEE THAT GM HAS FINALLY ISSUED A RECALL FOR THEIR ENGINES STALLING AND I'M WONDERING IF CHRYSLER EVER WILL BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR THE SAME THING? THERE 2007 DODGE CALIBER STALLS WITH A FLASHING LEFT LIGHT, WHICH HAS BEEN REPORTED TO CHRYSLER, THE NHTSA, AND TRANSPORT CANADA ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS BUT NOTHING IS EVER DONE ABOUT IT. CONSUMERS ARE JUST LEFT TO FEND FOR THEMSELVES AND IT'S COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE. *TR

I WAS DRIVING MY CAR ON I-10 AND THE CAR SUDDENLY JERKED AND SLOWED DOWN DESPITE MY FOOT STILL BEING ON THE GAS PEDAL, THE CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE AND THEN THE ENGINE STOPPED ON THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. I COASTED TO THE MEDIAN, AND WAITED FOR 3-4 MINUTES, (MOSTLY TO CATCH MY BREATH AS I WAS LUCKY I WAS NOT RUN OVER BY SEMI'S) I RESTARTED THE MPH WAS THE NORM) I HAD TO PUT ON MY HAZARD LIGHTS AND DRIVE TO THE NEXT EXIT. THE MECHANIC SAID THE CONTROL BOARD FOR THE CRANKSHAFT WAS BLOWN AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. SEEMS LIKE A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION FOR OTHER DRIVERS AND OWNERS OF A DODGE CALIBER IF IT IS A COMMON DEFECT. 07DODCALIBER/PC684 DODGE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. *TR

THE HINGES FAIL ON DRIVER AND PASSENGERS SIDE THE DOOR WILL NOT SHUT GETS STUCK WIDE OPEN IF FORCE SHUT CAUSE YOU HAVE NO TOOLS TO PRY BOTTOM HINGE BACK IN PLACE IT CAUSES A HUGE DENT IN FRONT FENDER... THERE ARE A HUGE AMOUNT OF OWNERS COMPLAINING OF THIS ISSUE ONLINE SO I THINK IT'S A BIG FLAW! I HAVE SINCE REPLACED MINE WITH USED ONE'S AND DO EXPECT TO HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE HINGES... IF THIS HAPPENS TO YOUR DOOR IT WILL NOT CLOSE COMPLETELY IF YOU MANAGE TO GET IT TO CLOSING POINT BECAUSE THE DOOR LATCH WILL NO LONGER LINE UP PROPERLY... SAFETY ISSUES MY DOOR OPENED ON ME GOING DOWN THE ROAD ON MY WAY HOME WITH IT GOING AROUND A CORNER...THANK GOD I HAD MY SEAT BELT ON... SOME LINKS TO MORE COMPLAINTS..HTTP://DODGEFORUM.COM/FORUM/DODGE-CALIBER/284660-DOOR-HINGE-PROBLEM.HTML HTTP://ANSWERS.YAHOO.COM/QUESTION/INDEX?QID=20091111084343AAIHADT HTTP://CALIBERFORUMZ.COM/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?T=35636HTTP://WWW.QFAK.COM/CARS_TRANSPORTATION/MAINTENANCE_REPAIR/?ID=208841#.UXJ4H38O4V4 AND MANY MORE.... *TR

UPON HITTING A SMALL POTHOLE, THE SUBFRAME BROKE CAUSING A LOSS OF STEERING INTO ONCOMING TRAFFIC. LUCKILY THERE WERE NO ACCIDENTS. THE TIRES NOW GO TWO SEPARATE DIRECTIONS. AFTER GETTING THE VEHICLE TOWED TO A REPAIR SHOP, THEY DISCOVERED THE SUBFRAME HAD RUSTED THROUGH DUE TO THE AIR COMPRESSOR LEAKING DIRECTLY ONTO THE SUBFRAME. WHEN HAVING OUR INSURANCE ADJUSTER FROM STATE FARM OUT TO ASSESS THE DAMAGE IT WAS DETERMINED IT WAS MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT AND WOULD NOT BE COVERED. I THEN CONTACTED DODGE WHO STATED THAT THE PERFORATION FOR RUSTING WAS 100,000 MILES. ALTHOUGH THE INCIDENT ON THE VEHICLE WE ARE STILL PAYING FOR THROUGH AN AUTHORIZED DODGE DEALER HAPPENED ON A VEHICLE THAT HAS EXCEEDING THE 100,000 MILES BY ONLY 10,000 MILES - WE ARE NOW STUCK WITH A CAR THAT'S GOING TO COST OVER $1,100 TO FIX DUE TO A MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT. THIS INCIDENT COULD'VE RESULTED IN A FATALITY. DODGE NEEDS TO BE HELD LIABLE FOR THIS ISSUE. *TR

AT 47,000 MILES HAD A 800.00 REPAIR TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BOTH SIDES. ALSO REPLACED THE OUTER TIE RODS AND NEW TIRES, FRONT END ALIGNMENT. JUST UNDER 2 YEARS SINCE THIS WAS DONE ANOTHER UNSUSPECTING INCIDENT WITH THE SUSPENSION, WHEELS SHIMMING AT 40MPH. CALLED CHRYSLER, AND THEY STATED NO RECALL ON MY VEHICLE, HOWEVER THE MECHANIC THAT CHECKED THE TIRES SAID HIS WIFE HAD HER VEHICLE RECALLED FOR SIMILAR BREAKDOWNS. MY POINT ALL OF THIS STARTED AT 47,000 MILES. IF MY TIRE RODS BREAK OR SOME OTHER INCIDENT WITH THE SUSPENSION I COULD HAVE A MAJOR OR FATAL ACCIDENT IF I LOSE CONTROL ON THE FREEWAY. -SUSPENSION ON THESE VEHICLES IS VERY UNSAFE AS IS THE CHRYSLER NEON. NEED VERIFICATION ALSO IF THERE WAS A SILENT RECALL ON THIS, MEANING THEY ONLY PAID WHEN ASKED. THEY ADMITTED THE PROBLEM ON THE FIRST INCIDENT AND PAID 400.00 AS A GOOD WILL GESTURE. THE VEHICLE'S SUSPENSION IS JUST PLAIN SLOPPY ANY WAY YOU LOOK AT IT. *TR

ALL FOUR TURNING SIGNALS AND EMERGENCY FLASHERS STOPPED WORKING. TIPM ERROR.

I WAS DRIVING AND MY PASSENGER LOW-BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT, SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A NEW HEADLIGHT, UPON INSTALLING IT, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK, BUT THE HIGH BEAM DID. TOOK IT TO DODGE TO SEE IF THEY COULD FIGURE IT OUT AND WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE WITH CALIBERS AND CERTAIN JEEPS, THE TIPM WENT BAD ON IT AND IT WOULD BE ALMOST $1000 TO REPAIR IT, FOR A KNOWN ISSUE THAT DODGE KNOWS ABOUT BUT HASN'T BEEN RECALLED! 2 WEEKS LATER, MY HIGHBEAM EVEN WENT OUT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, SO NOW THE CAR IS SITTING PARKED, UNABLE TO DRIVE WITH IMPROPER LIGHTING & TIPM PROBLEMS! *TR

VEHICLE ROLLED TO A STOP ALONG THE ROAD. WAS UNABLE TO RESTART. I REMOVED THE REAR SEAT TO INSPECT THE FUEL PUMP AND CONNECTIONS. BOTH THE TOP OF THE PLASTIC FUEL PUMP AND IT'S PLASTIC CONNECTION WAS MELTED FROM AN ELECTRICAL MELT DOWN, JUST MILLIMETERS FROM THE FULL GAS TANK. THIS COULD'VE RESULT IN AN EXPLOSION AND FATALITY. APPARENTLY FROM WHAT I'VE BEEN READING ONLINE THIS IS QUITE COMMON WITH THIS MODEL. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE THERE IS A FATALITY. *TR

CAR WILL RANDOMLY START SHAKING LIKE THERE IS BARELY ANY POWER. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR TWICE. NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. NOW THE AIR BAG LIGHT IN THE CLUSTER CONSTANTLY TURNS OFF AND ON AND BEEPS WHILE THE CAR IS SHAKING. *TR

NOTICED RUSTED SUBFRAME WITH BIG HOLE. WE KNEW IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NO PARTICULAR REASON FOR THE EROSION OTHER THAN THE WAY THE VEHICLE IS DESIGNED. VEHICLE IS ONLY 6-7 YEARS OLD. THIS TYPE OF EROSION IS USUALLY ONLY SEEN ON OLD VINTAGE VEHICLES. A FEW DAYS AGO, WE RAN OVER A HIDDEN POT HOLE AND THE SUBFRAME IS COMPLETELY BROKEN APART. NOW CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THIS CAR WAS POORLY DESIGNED IN THIS AREA. THE COMPANY SHOULD RECALL THE SUBFRAME TO REPLACE AND INSTALL A REROUTING PIECE FOR THE AC TO DRIP ON AND BYPASS DRIPPING ON THE FRAME. *TR

WENT TO GET CAR INSPECTED AND THE MECHANIC FOUND OUR CROSSMEMBER FRAME WAS RUSTED OUT. IT IS ONLY 5 YRS OLD AND HAS 63000 MILES, UNHEARD OF. NEXT STEP CONTACT DODGE SEE WHAT THEY CAN DO TO HELP US GET THIS REPAIRED, RIGHT NOW CAR IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. *TR

I TOOK MY CAR TO GET MY ALIGNMENT DONE. WHILE ON THE RACK THE MECHANIC BROUGHT ME IN TO SHOW ME THE MASSIVE HOLE IN MY SUBFRAME. THE CAR IS A 2007 WITH ONLY 97,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT AND BOTH BULBS ARE KNOWN GOOD. ITS THE TIPM TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT'S THE CULPRIT AND IT COSTS $900.00 TO REPLACE. I'M DEMANDING A TOTAL RECALL ON ALL DODGE CALIBERS. *TR

THE VEHICLE HAD NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES AND AIR CONDITIONING ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. AFTER SOME TIME THE VEHICLE'S LEFT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. WHEN REPLACED IT STILL DID NOT WORK. THE VEHICLE'S ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE FUNCTIONAL. WITHIN A WEEK AFTER THIS OCCURRENCE THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE STARTED WITHOUT A "JUMP" AND EVEN SO WOULD LOSE POWER ONCE PARKED AND COULD NOT BE STARTED AGAIN. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE AUTO MECHANIC, SPECIFICALLY AN AUTO ELECTRICIAN, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $700 PLUS LABOR. IN RESPONSE TO THIS I RESEARCHED THE PART AND CAME ACROSS NUMEROUS PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM

I HAVE A 2007 CALIBER R/T I'M AT ABOUT 183,000KM. EARLIER THIS WEEK ALL THE LIGHTS IN MY CLUSTER STARTED FLASHING, AND THE CHIMES STARTED SOUNDING. MY CAR WENT INTO WHAT THEY CALL "LIMP" MODE WHERE THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AND THE FASTEST YOU CAN GO IS 60KM/HR ON A FLAT ROADWAY (AND IT HAS TO BUILD UP TO THAT SPEED). I WAS TOLD THAT THE CONNECTIONS TO MY TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) HAD BECOME CORRODED AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE IT REPLACED ($1000 FOR THE PART, THEN THERE'S LABOUR ON TOP OF THAT). ON TOP OF THAT I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO CHECK ALL THE WIRING TO ENSURE THAT ALL THE CORROSION WAS TAKEN CARE OF, WHICH WOULD PROBABLY COST A WHOLE BUNCH OF MONEY SEEING AS THERE IS A WHOLE LOT OF WIRING THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE CHECKED. THE SERVICE MANAGER ALSO TOLD ME THAT CHRYSLER/DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE AND THAT IT IS ALL DUE TO FAULTY DESIGN. WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO REPLACE SUCH AN INTEGRAL PART AFTER THE LENGTH OF TIME THAT I'VE HAD THE CAR. I COULD UNDERSTAND SOMETHING LIKE A GENERAL WEAR AND TEAR PART GOING, BUT TO HAVE TO FORK OUT OVER $1500 DOLLARS TO REPAIR JUST SEEMS RIDICULOUS. THE TIMP (FUSE BOX) IN THE CALIBERS FAIL FREQUENTLY (THIS IS A SAFETY DESIGN FLAW THAT NEEDS RECALLED) THE COST OF THE TIMP IS NOT CHEAP!!!!!!! *TR