2011 Chevrolet Cruze complaints

BURNING SMELL FROM ENGINE. BACK IN MAY 2016 I STARTED SMELLING THIS BURNING SMELL AFTER YOU DROVE THE CAR FOR 20 MINS. I BRING IT UP TO THE DEALER EVERY TIME I HAVE TO TAKE THE CAR IN. THEY CAN NEVER FIND THE SOURCE. THEY THOUGHT A OIL PAN LEAK WAS IT. THAT WAS FIXED AND THE SMELL STILL IS THERE. THEY CLAIMED TO FIND AN OIL LEAK ANOTHER TIME AND FIXED. THEN IT WAS A TRANSMISSION LEAK, WHICH WAS FIXED AND STILL THE SMELL. THERE IS NEVER FLUID UNDER THE CAR. I HAVE THE SMELL NOTED EVERY TIME.

THE CHEVROLET CRUZE'S WATER COOLANT OUTLET HAS CRACKED THREE TIMES NOW. THIS IS A PLASTIC PIECE THAT CRACKS UNDER HEAT AND LEAKS RADIATOR FLUID.

THE CAR ENGINE HAS SHUT OFF TWICE IN 2 WEEKS WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN ON AN INCLINE. I SLOWED DOWN TO MAKE THE TURN/CURVE AND THEN STEPPED ON THE GAS AND THE CAR DIED. THE DASH AND RADIO STAY ON, BUT NO POWER TO ENGINE. NO SERVICE LIGHTS STAY LITE ON THE DASH. YOU HAVE TO TURN THE KEY OFF, PUT IN PARK, OPEN DOOR SO RADIO TURNS OFF, GIVE A MIN AND RESTART. THE FIRST TIME I WAS PULLING OFF A SIDE ROAD ONTO A BUSY ROAD, BUT I DIDN'T DO A COMPLETE STOP BECAUSE TRAFFIC WAS CLEAR. I WAS GOING 10-15MPH. THE SECOND TIME I WAS ON A SIDE ROAD GOING ABOUT 25-30 MPH. IT WAS JUST A MILDLY SHARP CURVE.

NO REIMBURSEMENT FOR SAME ISSUE, SAME ERROR CODE. IF I'M BEING TOLD BY DIFFERENT BODY SHOPS THAT THEY CONTINUALLY SEE THE SAME ISSUE WITH CHEVY CRUZE'S, BEING THE LOSS OF TURBO BOOST. SHOULDN'T IT BE A PART OF THE RECALL FOR 2013&14 OR AT LEAST BE MADE A RECALL ITSELF. MINE IS A 2011 WITH THE SAME ERROR CODE READ AS THE RECALL WITH 2013'S. MY TURBO WAS REPLACED RIGHT BEFORE THANKSGIVING. HAPPY HOLIDAYS SMH!

DIRECT IMPACT WITH 1200 POUND COW WHILE DRIVING ON A STATE HIGHWAY, THE AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY. ENTIRE CAR ENGULFED IN FLAMES AS THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY STARTED FIRE. TOTALLED. WHY DIDN'T THE AIRBAG DEPLOY? SERIOUS INJURY. SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. I HAVE PURCHASED 2 CRUZE'S BECAUSE OF THE SAFETY FEATURES. THIS IS SO NOT SAFE AND SO UNACCEPTABLE

ON OCTOBER 19,2018 MY IN LAWS WERE TRAVELING NORTH ON ROUTE 61 IN PENNSYLVANIA. THEY CAN TO A RED LIGHT AND RAN INTO THE BACK OF A MINIVAN AND THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED. THEN WE DONT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED, BUT THE CAR ACCELERATED AND WENT THE LENGTH OF A FOOTBALL FIELD AND THEY HIT A POLE AND MY MOTHER IN LAW DIED INSTANTLY AND MY FATHER IN LAW DIED AT 5:10 AM.MY CONCERN IS WHY ISN'T IT AN INDUSTRY STANDARD THAT ONCE THE AIRBAGS ARE DEPLOYED THE THROTTLE DOESN'T SHUT DOWN. IF THE THROTTLE WOULD HAVE NOT WORKED THEY WAY STILL BE ALIVE.IF YOU CANT HELP ME COULD YOU SEND ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

WHILE DRIVING THE ENGINE TOTALLY LOOSES POWER AND THE ENTIRE CAR IS SHUT OFF AND COMES TO A STOP. LOTS OF ELECTRICAL MESSAGES SHOW UP, AND SOMETIMES THE KEY CANNOT COME OUT OF IGNITION. AFTER AN HOUR, SOMETIMES IT WILL RESTART. I HAVE HAD IT TOWED THREE TIMES TO THE DEALER. AT FIRST THEY THOUGHT IT WAS THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE, BUT ITS STILL HAS THE PROBLEM. STARTING TO NOT BE ABLE TO TRUST THIS CAR AS ITS A HAZARD TO DRIVE NOT KNOWING WHEN IT WILL CUT OUT AND JUST STOP WITH NO POWER TO EVEN HAVE WINDOWS ROLL UP.

LOOSING ANTIFREEZE, CONSTANTLY OVERHEATING AND MAY HAVE BLOWN HEAD GASKET IN MOTION AND SITTING STILL. I AM VERY DISSATISFIED WITH THE PURCHASE OF THIS CAR! IT HAS BEEN NOTHING BUT TROUBLE AND VERY COSTLY BUYING ANTIFREEZE ONCE A WEEK AT $20.00 A JUG FOR HALF AND HALF. I HOPE AND PRAY THAT THIS ENGINE WILL BE RECALLED!!!

WHILE DRIVING DOWN A CITY STREET IT BEGAN TO RAIN SO I TURNED ON MY WIPERS AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE PASSENGER STOPPED IN THE STRAIGHT UP POSITION WHICH CAUSED THE DRIVERS SIDE TO GET CAUGHT UP IN IT. I IMMEDIATELY TURNED OFF MY WIPERS AS THE DRIVERS SIDE WAS STILL ATTEMPTING TO MOVE EVEN THOUGH IT WAS CAUGHT UP AND HAD TO PULL OVER BECAUSE I HAD ZERO VISIBILITY. I GOT THE WIPERS UNTANGLED BUT THE PASSENGER SIDE NO LONGER WORKS. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE AND WITH THE RESEARCH I'VE DONE IT SEEMS TO BE A BIG ISSUE FOR HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF OTHERS.

ROLLED DOWN MY DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, IT MADE A CLICKING NOISE AND WHEN I TRIED TO ROLL IT UP, THE WINDOW FELL INTO THE DOOR. THE WINDOW WOULDN'T ROLL BACK UP AND MADE MORE CLICKING NOISES WHEN I TRIED TO ROLL IT UP

IN MAY OF THIS YEAR, AS I TRIED TO BACK OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY, MY CAR WOULD NOT MOVE IN REVERSE. THE CAR WAS RATTLING, THE RPMS WERE GOING UP, BUT THE CAR WOULD NOT GO IN GEAR. MY FAMILY PUSHED MY CAR OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY IN NEUTRAL AND I DROVE IT 2 MILES TO MY MECHANIC. DURING THAT 2 MINUTE DRIVE, THE CAR CONTINUALLY SLIPPED GEARS. FAST FORWARD TO HAVING THE CRUZE TOWED TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP (AFTER NOT HAVING HEARD FROM CHEVROLET AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS CONTACTING THEM) AND I FIND OUT THE TRANSMISSION IS COMPLETELY BROKE. THE CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY, AND OF COURSE CHEVROLET LENT NO ASSISTANCE, SO I PAID $3,674 TO HAVE A REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION PUT IN WITH A 500,000 MILE WARRANTY. THE TRANSMISSION IN THE CRUZE NEVER ACTED COMPLETELY RIGHT (A COMMON COMPLAINT AMONG MANY CRUZE OWNERS)- NOT SHIFTING PROPERLY WHEN GOING UP HILLS, JERKING WHEN SHIFTING ON FLAT PAVEMENT. IT'S MIND-BLOWING THAT THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY REPORTED ISSUES OF TRANSMISSION FAILURES IN THIS MODEL, BUT CHEVROLET HAS YET TO MAKE ANY RECALLS. IT'S NOT ONLY A FINANCIAL ISSUE, IT'S A SAFETY CONCERN. I WILL NOT BE BUYING A CHEVY AGAIN, AS THEY WERE UNWILLING TO PROVIDE ANY ASSISTANCE WHEN THIS MAJOR COMPONENT FAILED. NOT EVEN 90K MILES, SEVEN YEARS OLD, THIS SHOULDN'T EVEN BE AN ISSUE YET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS INITIALLY STARTED, THE POWER BOOSTER FOR THE BRAKES FAILED TO OPERATE. THE POWER BOOSTER BEGAN TO WORK AFTER APPROXIMATELY ONE MINUTE. QUIRK CHEVROLET MANCHESTER (1250 S WILLOW ST, MANCHESTER, NH 03103, (603) 263-4530) STATED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER ASSIGNED A CASE AND ADVISED THE CONTACT TO FILE A COMPLAINT WITH NHTSA. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 144,600.

2016 ECM REPROGRAMMING RECALL EVER SINCE I BROUGHT MY CAR IN FOR THE RECALL IN 2016 TO HAVE THE ECM REPROGRAMMED, I HAVE HAD SEVERE ISSUES WITH VERY ROUGH IDLING, SLOW ACCELERATION, AND INCONSISTENT FUEL USAGE. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND LISTS SEVERAL SENSORS THAT NEED TO BE REPLACED. WE REPLACED ALL OF THEM AND THE PROBLEM STILL COMES BACK. NOW THE CODES INDICATE THERE IS A CATASTROPHIC ISSUE WITH THE ECM AND CHEVY WILL NOT COVER IT EVEN THOUGH THIS ISSUE STARTED FROM THEIR OWN RECALL.

THE CAR LUNGES REAL BAD DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. LEAVING A STOP LIGHT. VERY DANGEROUS FOR MY 17 YEAR OLD

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO COURTESY CHEVROLET (1233 E CAMELBACK RD, PHOENIX, AZ 85014, (602) 457-3232) FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE INTAKE MANIFOLDS AND PCV VALVE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE REPAIRED TWICE FOR THIS FAILURE WITHIN A 45,000 TO 50,000 MILE RANGE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 124,000.

WE HAVE HAD AN ISSUE WITH A CHEMICAL SMELL WHEN THE DEFROST IS ON SINCE WE PURCHASED THE VEHICLE IN SEPTEMBER 2015. WHEN TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP, THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY REASON FOR THE SMELL. IT FOGS THE WINDSHIELD WITH A FILM, CAUSES HEADACHES AND LIGHT HEADEDNESS. IT IS WHAT I BELIEVE TO BE THE SMELL OF COOLANT BURNING, BUT NOTHING WAS EVER FOUND SO WE JUST CONTINUED TO DRIVE IT. ON 8/15/2018, THE FAN KICKED ON VERY HIGH, WE RECEIVED THE AC WAS BEING SHUT OFF ERROR DUE TO THE TEMPERATURE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THE VERY ODD THING ABOUT THIS IS THAT THE TEMPERATURE NEVER SHOWED IT WAS HIGH. THE GAUGE SHOWED 1 LINE OVER HALF TOWARDS THE HOT SIDE. GOT IT HOME AND LET IT COOL DOWN AND REALIZED THE COOLANT RESERVOIR WAS EMPTY. I REFILLED IT AND THE FAN WENT BACK TO RUNNING AS IT NORMALLY WOULD. I DECIDED TO CHECK IT AGAIN TODAY AND THE RESERVOIR WAS EMPTY AGAIN. I HAVE NOT HAD IT LOOKED AT AGAIN YET, BUT I THINK MAYBE THE INITIAL COOLANT ISSUE JUST BECAME A LARGER ONE. I HAVE SEEN MULTIPLE PEOPLE COMPLAIN OF BOTH OF THESE ISSUES. HAS THERE NOT BEEN ANY RECALL FOR THIS? I AM GOING TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT AGAIN BUT I FEEL LIKE FOR THE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE WITH THESE ISSUES WITH THIS YEAR OF CRUZE SOMETHING SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BY NOW TO RESOLVE THIS.

ON MY WAY TO THE BEACH I APPROACHED A STOP SIGN NEAR THE ENTRANCE OF A BUSY HIGHWAY. AFTER STOPPING I PROCEEDED TO PRESS THE GAS PEDAL AND ALL I GOT WAS ENGINE REVVING THE CAR DIDN'T MOVE AT ALL. I TRIED SHIFTING THE GEAR FROM PARK BACK TO DRIVE AND I TRIED AGAIN. THE CAR STILL DIDN'T MOVE AND I GOT REVVING AGAIN. SOMETHING WAS WRONG WITH THE TRANSMISSION CAUSING THE CAR TO SLIP INTO NEUTRAL WHILE BEING IN DRIVE. I RETURNED THE VEHICLE TO PARK AND TURNED IT OFF, AFTER WAITING A FEW SECONDS I STARTED THE CAR UP AGAIN PUT IT IN DRIVE AND I ACCELERATED FORWARD, I PULLED INTO A NEARBY PARKING LOT AND EASED MY WAY INTO A SPACE, BEFORE MAKING IT ALL THE WAY INTO THE SPACE I LOST GEAR AGAIN. I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE AND BACKED OUT OF THE SPACE. PUT IN BACK IN DRIVE AND AGAIN DIDN'T GO FORWARD, JUST REVVING. I ULTIMATELY PARKED THE CAR AND HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC. 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE ARE MOST COMMONLY KNOWN TO HAVE TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS BUT THERE IS NO OPEN RECAL. MY CRUZE COULD HAVE SLIPPED INTO NEUTRAL WHILE I WAS ON THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. THERE WAS NO WARNING IT WAS GONNA FAIL. NO LIGHT INDICATIONS, NO STRANGE SOUNDS COMING FROM THE CAR. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A NEARBY CHEVROLET DEALER TO SEE IF THEY COULD TELL ME WHAT HAPPENED. THE TRANSMISSION GUY DROVE IT AROUND THE LOT AND THEN TOLD ME HIS BEST EDUCATED GUESS ON WHAT HAPPENED IS THAT THE 3,5,R PLATE BROKEDOWN AND CLOGGED THE FILTER. THEY TOLD ME I NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION. I CONTACTED CHEVROLET AND GM TO SEE IF THEY WOU

TAMARA RECALL: I AM A FORMER GM EMPLOYEE. I PURCHASED A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE RIGHT AFTER HAVING IT A FEW MONTHS I HAD A ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION. I'VE ALSO HAVE HAD TROUBLE WITH THE OIL GETTING INTO THE COOLANT RESERVOIR. WHICH HAS NOW HAPPENED THEE TIMES. THE COST IS RIDICULOUS!!!! I JUST SPENT $1050 ON THAT AND A NEW WATER PUMP JUST TO FIND OUT I'M STILL WITHOUT A CAR BECAUSE THE TRANSMISSION IS RIGHT BACK DOING THE SAME THING AGAIN. THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AND JERKING. I FEEL LIKE GM SHOULD BE PAYING ME BACK MY MONEY FOR THIS CRAP PIECE OF CAR. I TRY HARD TO TAKE CARE OF MY CAR BUT THIS IS HORRIBLE!!!! I WANT MY CAR FIXED AND I DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO PAY ANOTHER DIME. I LOSS MY JOB BECAUSE MY CAR WENT OUT ON ME. I HAS TO BORROW THE MONEY TO GET THE GASKET JOB DONE AGAIN. I'M CALLING THE DEALERSHIP IN THE MORNING AND IF THEY DON'T DO SOMETHING ABOUT THAT TRANSMISSION I AM GOING TO PUT GENERAL MOTORS ON BLAST!!!!

AFTER AWHILE OF OWNING MY VEHICLE I NOTICED MY AC/HEATER BLOWER BEGAN TO STOP BLOWING OUT OF MY VENTS, AND IT ONLY BLOWS OUT OF THE DEFROST VENT. WITH THE BLOWER ON MY WINDOWS BECOME VERY FOGGED AND HARD TO SEE. I TOOK IT TO A REPAIR CENTER AND FOUND OUT THAT IT WOULD END UP COSTING ME $1000 TO FIX A $15 PIECE. WITH HAVING TO REMOVE MY ENTIRE DASH. THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A LEVER OF SOME SORT AND THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO GET TO IT.

ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS I HAVE ALMOST HAD COLLISIONS BECAUSE MY CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE GOING UP A HILL THE RPM WOULD REV UP HIGH BUT IT SEEMED MY TRANSMISSION SLOWED DOWN/SLIPPING. I TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO BE CHECKED WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG "WASTED $80 FOR NOTHING" WITH MY CAR BUT I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. WHEN I GO TO CLIMB ANY HILL NOW THE CAR STILL ACTS LIKE IT HAS NO POWER TO GO BUT ENGINE RPMS RUN HIGH AND FEELS LIKE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AND NOT WORKING RIGHT. I CAN'T EVEN ATTEMPT TO PASS ON HIGHWAY/ROAD BECAUSE I KNOW THIS CAR DOES NOT HAVE THE POWER. THE WAY THIS CAR OPERATES IS CONCERNING TO ME AND IS UNSAFE IN MY EYES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE SPEED DRASTICALLY REDUCED TO LESS THAN 40 MPH WITHOUT WARNING. THE DEALER (MIKE ANDERSON CHEVROLET, 119 E MAIN ST, GAS CITY, IN 46933, (765) 327-7326) SCHEDULED A DIAGNOSTIC APPOINTMENT AND REPLACED THE PCV VALVE UNDER A WARRANTY; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO SOUTHWORTH FORD (1430 N BALDWIN AVE, MARION, IN 46952, (765) 662-2561) WHERE DIAGNOSTIC TESTING FOUND THE SAME FAILURE CODES AS THE PREVIOUS REPAIRS AND THAT THE PCV VALVE FAILED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND SUGGESTED TAKING THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER FOR REPAIRS. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 54,000.

1. EACH TIME I GET AN OIL CHANGE, THE CAR SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING OIL AND IT'S REALLY STRONG. 2. HAD TO REPLACE THE GAS CAP AS IT BECAME STRIPPED CAUSING ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON. REPLACED WITH CORRECT CAP, LIGHT WENT OUT. FILLED CALL WITH FUEL, LIGHT CAME BACK ON, NOW SHOWING CODES.

BOUGHT A CRUZE IN 2011 AND FULLY SERVICED IT ALL OF ITS LIFE, IT'S NOW 2018 WITH 111K MILES AND THE TRANNY BLEW.

CHROME IS PEELING ON INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES LEAVING RAZOR SHARP EDGES. UNSUSPECTING PASSENGERS OR DRIVER CAN BE SERIOUSLY CUT BY THE MATERIAL. THIS IS ESPECIALLY DANGEROUS TO CHILDREN EXITING THE CAR.

I WAS MADE AWARE OF THE MULTIPLE RECALLS MY VEHICLE HAD THROUGH MY PEPBOYS DASHBOARD WHICH IS WHERE I GET MY CAR SERVICED. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS RECALL WAS ACTIVE WHEN I WAS SOLD THE CAR LAST FEBRUARY 2017 IN WHICH I AM CURRENTLY PAYING ON

I PUT $20 IN GAS IN THE VEHICLE ON MY WAY TO WORK. WHEN I PULLED OUT INTO TRAFFIC, THE CAR JERKED VIOLENTLY, THEN PROCEEDED TO BUCK AND IDLE FUNNY ALL THE WAY TILL I GOT TO WORK. FROM THAT DAY TILL NOW, EVERYTIME I STOP AT A RED LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, IT STALLS UNLESS I KEEP GAS PETAL PRESSED DOWN.

VEHICLE HAS A VERY ROUGH IDLE WHILE STOPPED AND WHILE DRIVING. WHEN DRIVING THE VEHICLE WILL CHANGE ROUGHLY IDLE AND SPEED UP THE VEHICLE. WHILE IN A STOPPING POSITION THE VEHICLE WILL ROUGHLY IDLE AND THE RPM INDICATOR WILL BOUNCE UP AND DOWN. THE ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AND THE TRACTION CONTROL WARNING AND SERVICE ESP WARNINGS COME ON INTERMITTENTLY WHILE IN STOPPED POSITION AND THEN THE VEHICLE WILL NOT ACCELERATE PROPERLY. THE MOST RECENT ONE REVVED AND ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN, ALMOST HITTING THE CAR AT THE STOPLIGHT IN FRONT OF ME.

ENGINE POWER REDUCED LIGHT COMES ON, CAR IDLES ROUGH, LIKE IT IS GOING TO SHUT OFF. WHEN INITIALLY TAKING OFF CAR PUTTS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING GAS. CAR ACTS LIKE IT WILL STALL WHILE DRIVING AND DURING IDLING. STABILITY SERVICE TRACTION LIGHT COMES ON PERIODICALLY AND ENGINE RMPS INCREASE. HAD CAR LOOKED AT IN CASE IT WAS O2 SENSOR, BUT WAS TOLD BY MECHANIC THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. ISSUE HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE MAY 2018. THERE ARE 126K MILES ON THE CAR. CAR HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED. I DRIVE 45 MINUTES TO WORK, 5 DAYS A WEEK. I HAVE YOUNG CHILDREN THAT I TRANSPORT IN THE VEHICLE. CAR FEELS UNSAFE.

SEAT MOVES AND CLANKS WHEN GOING OVER A BUMP OR RAILROAD TRACKS. CAN FEEL SEAT MOVING.

DRIVERS SIDE HEATED SEAT SHUTS OFF AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE.

THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING, LAGGING AND NOT ENGAGING. WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN DRIVE IT MAY LAG BEFORE FINALLY GOING INTO GEAR. WHEN SHIFTING GEARS AUTOMATICALLY, IN MOTION, THE CAR WILL LAG BETWEEN GEARS AND WILL ABRUPTLY GO INTO GEAR AFTER A LAG CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP.

"TAKATA RECALL" MY CAR IS SHUTTING OFF THEN POWERING BACK UP BY ITSELF.. SEEMS LIKE SOMETHING IS STUCK READING A CODE OF P0234

VEHICLE WAS ON HIGHWAY GOING TO LEXINGTON KY FROM LOUISVILLE KY. CAR BEGIN TO SMOKE. HOSE THAT WAS SUPPOSEDLY FIXED ON RADIATOR WAS RIGGED AND OIL SPILLED FROM THE HOSE CAUSING IT TO GO INTO ENGINE. ENGINE OVERHEATED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY. ENGINE DIED. HAD TO GET CAR TOWED FROM ONE CITY TO THE NEXT. GOT STRANDED IN ANOTHER TOWN BECAUSE COULD NOT OBTAIN A RENTAL CAR BECAUSE THEY WERE CLOSED. SINCE 2016 I HAVE SPENT OVER $7000 ON GETTING THE SAME ISSUES OR RELATED ISSUES FIXED. I HAVE SPENT OVER $5000 IN RENTAL CARS AND I STILL OWE $9000 ON MY CAR WHICH I PURCHASED FROM BALES AUTOMALL/BACHMAN IN JEFFERSONVILLE INDIANA IN 2014 WITH ON 28,000 MILES. I HAVE KEPT MY SERVICES UP TO DATE ON THE VEHICLE AND HAVE DOCUMENTATION FOR THAT. IT SEEMS ONCE I BEGIN TO GET OIL CHANGES AT THIS LOCATION MY CAR BEGIN TO DECLINE. I WOULD BE TOLD THAT I HAD ONE PROBLEM, THEY WOULD FIX IT, AND THEN SOMETHING ELSE WOULD HAPPEN. IN ADDITION, I HAVE A WITNESS WHO IS A FAMILY MEMBER WHO IS EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH THE SAME YEAR AND MODEL CAR THAT SHE OWNS. I SEE HER GOING THROUGH THE SAME DOWN SPIRAL STEPS WITH HER CAR AS I DID. IT IS ALMOST LIKE CLOCKWORK. I HAVE READ CONSUMER REPORTS ABOUT THESE VEHICLES AND NONE HAVE BEEN POSITIVE. IN FACT, MANY WHO HAVE A TURBO ENGINE WILL OR HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE. THE CAR IS A LEMON... IT NEEDS TO BE RECALLED!! IT IS UNFAIR THAT I PURCHASED A CAR THAT WAS NO GOOD AND THAT ONLY RAN GOOD FOR TWO YEARS BEFORE HAVING TO REPLACE THE TURBO TWICE

TAKATA RECALL, I HAVE A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. MY TURBO IS HAVING UNDERBOOST FAILURE AND NEEDS REPLACED. I CAN NO LONGER INCREASE SPEED WHILE DRIVING ON THE ROAD TO PASS CARS OR GO UP HILLS, I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL OTHER CHEVY CRUZES WITH THE SAME YEAR BEEN RECALLED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I TYPED MY VIN NUMBER IN NOTHING POPPED UP. SO WHY DOESN'T MY CAR QUALIFY ?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHEN RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE ABRUPTLY JERKED AND SHOOK. WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS COMPLETELY RELEASED, THE VEHICLE JERKED WITH FORCE AND SHOOK. THE CONTACT HAD TO WAIT A FEW SECONDS FOR THE VEHICLE TO STOP JERKING AND SHAKING IN ORDER TO ENGAGE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. THE FAILURE WAS EXPERIENCED EVERYDAY AND THE STABILITY CONTROL, TRACTION CONTROL, AND CHECK ENGINE INDICATORS ILLUMINATED DURING THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE NORMALLY OCCURRED WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN 42 MPH OR LESS. HOWEVER, WHEN DRIVING 55 MPH OR MORE, THE FAILURE WAS NOT EXPERIENCED. AFTER THE JERKING AND SHAKING WOULD END, THE VEHICLE TOOK A FEW MINUTES TO REACH 55 MPH OR MORE. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

MY 2011 CHEVY CRUZ THE TURBO WENT OUT ON IT REPLACE THE TURBO REPLACE THE MANIFOLD REPLACED THE LINE THAT GOES INTO THE OIL PAN I HAVE A VACUUM LEAK SOMEWHERE I CAN'T FIND A VACUUM LEAK THERE SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING IS BURNING UNDERNEATH THE SEATS AND SOMETIMES IT IS HARD TO SHIFT IT DOESN'T SHIFT RIGHT.ALSO THE LIGHTS ON THE FRONT THEY FLICKER AND BLANK THE SEATBELTS DON'T LIKE TO COME OUT WHEN YOU CLICKI WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ONE DAY I WAS TRYING TO GET OUT ON THE EXPRESSWAY COMING OFF OF THE RAMP TRYING TO GET SPAYED AND THERE WAS NO POWER AND DIDN'T WANT TO GO ANY FASTER BY THE TIME I GOT HOME IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS WHISTLING AND NO POWER AT ALL THE TURBOS FIX BRAND NEW THE MANIFOLD BRAND NEW IT'S ALL BRAND NEW WHITE NEXT TO HIS CAR IS GIVING ME A PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEM

IT'S BEEN GOING OFF AND ON EVERY SINCE I FIRST GOT THE CAR I SMELL A BURNING SMELL AND IT LOSES POWER IS STALLS AND THE DEALERSHIP KEEP TELLING ME IT'S JUST AIR GETTING INTO IT BUT I KNOW IT'S MY TURBO BECAUSE MY NEIGHBOR HAS ONE HER TURBO WENT OUT AND I HAVE TWO OTHER FRIENDS THAT HAS ONE AND BOTH THEIR TURBO WENT OUT AND NOW IT'S MAKING A KNOCKING NOISE AND EVERYONE THAT I HAVE LOOK AT IT SAY IT'S THE TURBO IT'S THE WASTEGATE I DON'T DRIVE MY CAR MUCH AND ONLY HAS 26,000 MILES ON IT BECAUSE I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT I'VE HAD IT FIXED MORE THAN 10 TIMES IT HAD A OIL LEAK WHERE WOULD CATCH ON FIRE BUT THE DEALERSHIP PUT TURBO FANS IN INSTEAD OF GIVING ME A NEW MOTOR SO IT'S STILL FLAMES UP FROM THE OIL PAN BUT THEY SAY THE TURBO FANS IS GOING TO BLOW THE FIRE OUT SO IT'S NOT GOING TO HURT ME BUT I DON'T DRIVE IT FAR BECAUSE I'M SCARED WHEN IT GETS HOT THAT'S GOING TO CATCH ON FIRE AND NOBODY WOULD GIVE ME ANYTHING FOR IT THAT'S WHY I STILL HAVE THE CAR BUT I'M WILLING TO JUST TAKE A BIG LOSS AND JUST LET THEM HAVE IT BACK THE DOORS OPEN WITHOUT TOUCHING THE CAR WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM THE LIGHTS ARE JUST GO OUT IN THE DASH JUST RANDOM SO I CAN'T DRIVE IT AT NIGHT I HOPE YOU CAN SEE THE OIL ON THE PICTURES IT JUST SHOOTS ALL OVER THE PLACE AND WHEN I TAKE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY SAY THE RECALL IS NOT ON MY CAR THEY HAVE A RECALL ON THE TURBO AND THE VACUUM SYSTEM BUT THEY RUN MY VIN NUMBER AND SAY IT'S NOT ON MY CAR WHEN I FIRST GOT THIS CAR IT WAS QUIET IT CAUGHT ON FIRE FR

2011 CHEVY CRUZE WATERPUMP RECALL- PACE CHEVROLET HUNTINGTON, INDIANA DEALERSHIP. MY CAR OVERHEATED AFTER THE SECOND VISIT TRYING TO CORRECT THE POOR RECALL REPAIR. PLEASE SEE BELOW:. I TOOK MY 2011 CHEVY CRUZE IN FOR A WATERPUMP RECALL. THEY COMPLETED THE JOB IN 1/2 OF THE NORMAL TIME AS QUOTED ONLINE. AS SOON AS I PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE IT SOUNDED LIKE A WATERFALL UNDER MY DASH! I PULLED RIGHT BACK IN. THE TECH LIFTED UP MY HOOD AND SAID OH IT WAS JUST BURPING THE SYSTEM AND CLOSED IT. SECOND VISIT: 2 1/2 WEEKS LATER- I BROUGHT IT BACK IN. THEY ADMITTED THAT AIR BUBBLES HAD BECOME TRAPPED IN PARTS OF MY ENGINE AND THEY "BLED" THE SYSTEM. WITHIN 5 DAYS MY COOLANT WAS EMPTY!! THIRD VISIT: THEY CALLED ME AND SAID THAT I HAD BROKEN THE COOLANT PRESSURE RELEASE HOSE CONNECTOR FROM MY MASTER MECHANIC HUSBAND BUTTING SOME WIRES WEEKS BEFORE. HOW DID I GO TWO AND A HALF WEEKS WITH IT BEING COMPLETELY FULL AND COINCIDENTLY 5 DAYS AFTER MY SECOND VISIT MY COOLANTS OUT AND EMPTY??? ADVISED THAT GM WILL NOT PAY FOR THIS AND EITHER WILL THEY. SO I'LL HAVE TO PAY $185 FOR A $30.00 PART AND 5 MINUTES OF THEIR TIME TO SWAP IT OUT. MY HUSBAND'S A MECHANIC, I WOULD NEVER GO THROUGH ALL THIS TROUBLE FOR A $30 HOSE CONNECTOR. THERE WAS NO ACCOUNTABILITY AND I AM SO DISGUSTED WITH THEM TRYING TO BLAME ME. BELIEVE ME, IF IT WAS ME I WOULD HAVE NO ISSUES REPAIRING IT RATHER THAN TO BE DISRESPECTED LIKE THAT. I ALSO HAD SQUEAKING COMING FROM MY BELT, THEY NEGLECTED TO LOOK AT THAT AND DIDN'T WIP

THE OIL FILTER HAUSING IS LIQUIDATING OIL EVERY TIME THAT I MAKE A OIL CHANGE

ON DECEMBER 30, 2017 MY SON WAS DRIVING HOME,WE LIVE IN THE COUNTRY. SO HE STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN AND WHEN HE WENT TO TAKE OFF THE CAR WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF 1ST GEAR. THANK GOODNESS HE WASN'T FAR FROM HOME SO WAS ABLE TO VERY SLOWLY GET HERE. THE CAR HAD 111144 MILES ON IT. THE CAR HAD BEEN INOPERABLE SINCE THAT DAY. WE HAVE REPLACED THE VALVE BODY BUT THAT DID NOT HELP. TOOK IT TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP WHERE WE WERE TOLD THE TRANSMISSION ONLY HAD REVERSE AND 3RD GEAR AND THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER DOING SOME ONLINE SEARCHING I DISCOVERED MANY OTHER PEOPLE WITH THE SAME ISSUE ON THIS CAR.

CAR DOES NOT PROPERLY ACCELERATE, SO MUCH SO THAT I NEED TO USE THE HAZARD LIGHTS TO AVOID BEING HIT BY THE CAR BEHIND ME WHEN ACCELERATING AFTER STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN OR RED LIGHT. THIS IS NOT SAFE. I HAVE SMALL CHILDREN. I DROVE 40+ MILES (CITY MILES) AND HAD NO ISSUES GETTING THERE, BUT THEN WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO TURN THE CAR ON AGAIN TO RETURN HOME, THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE SHOWED THE ENGINE GO FROM COLD TO HOT VERY QUICKLY, DISPLAYED THE MESSAGE "ENGINE HOT A/C OFF" AND IT STARTED MAKING A LOUD SQUEALING NOISE. AT THIS POINT I SWERVED THE CAR OFF THE ROAD BECAUSE MY DAUGHTER AND I FEARED FOR OUR SAFETY AND THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO EXPLODE. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK, WE BOTH OPENED OUR DOORS AND TOOK OFF RUNNING FROM THE CAR UNTIL WE REACHED A SAFE DISTANCE. I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED 40+ MILES TO MY HOME. THE MECHANIC CHECKED THE VEHICLE AGAIN AND FOUND THAT THE RADIATOR HAD CRACKED AND THAT THE WATER PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. HE REPLACED THE RADIATOR AND ALSO THE WATER PUMP, AND ENSURED THE PROPER AMOUNTS OF ALL FLUIDS. ALSO, WHENEVER I ATTEMPT TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY, THE FRONT END OF THE CAR GETS VERY HOT AND THE "TRANSMISSION HOT IDLE ENGINE" MESSAGE COMES ON AND THE AC, WHICH WAS WORKING FINE, DOES NOT WORK NOW. STILL, THE MECHANIC COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE TRANSMISSION! THE HEAT FROM THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION COME STRAIGHT THROUGH THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, WHICH WITH NO AC GETS SUPER HOT IN ADDITION TO THE 80+ DEGREE WEATHER IN CENTRAL FLORIDA (AND IT'S NOT EVEN SU

I OWN A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. IT HAS 67,000 MILES. ABOUT A MONTH AGO, I STARTED TO NOTICE A FEELING OF MY STEERING TAKING ON A MIND OF ITS OWN. SO JUST LAST WEEK, I WENT AND GOT NEW BRAKES, ROTORS, TIRES, FRONT END ALIGNMENT, BALANCE. COST A PRETTY PENNY, BUT NEEDED FOR SAFETY. I HAD THEM CHECK FOR FRONT END ISSUES THAT MIGHT BE RELATED TO STEERING PROBLEMS. THEY SAID THE FRONT END WAS TIGHT. TYRODS, BALL JOINTS, AXLE, ETC. THIS CONFIRMED TO ME, THAT THE STEERING ISSUE WAS FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. THERE IS ALSO A CRUNCHING SOUND IN THE STEERING, WHEN TURNING WHEEL FROM A PARKED POSITION. WELL THE STILL HAS STEERING ISSUES. ON THE STRAIGHT AWAY, IT FEELS LIKE THE TIRES ARE INDEPENDENTLY TURNING. I THEN HAVE TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO COMPENSATE AND CORRECT. THIS IN TURN CAUSES, OVER TURNING. THE TIRES AND THE STEERING WHEEL ARE NOT WORKING TOGETHER. THIS MAKES ME SO SCARED TO DRIVE THIS CAR. I HAVE A SMALL PASSANGER, DAILY. I ALSO DRIVE ON A 50 MILE TRIP ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK. PLEASE HELP

I BOUGHT THE 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZ IN 2014, I USED THE CAR PRIMARILY FOR WORK SO THROUGHOUT THE FIRST FEW YEARS I DIDN'T NOTICE ANYTHING STRANGE AS IT REMAINED PARKED MOST THE TIME. WHEN I DID START DRIVING IT AS A PRIMARY VEHICLE THE FIRST ISSUE I HAD WAS THE CLUTCH AND GEAR SYSTEM SEEMED TO BE TOUCHY WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK, RESORTING TO ME USING THE EMERGENCY BRAKE EVERY TIME I WOULD PARK IT. AT THE TIME IT DIDN'T SEEM TO BE A BIG ISSUE AS IT BECAME A HABIT. IN 2016 SHORTLY AFTER THIS MY OIL CONSUMPTION AND TURBO FAILED, AND THE VEHICLES EXHAUST STARTED BLOWING BLUE SMOKE AND THE CAR LOST ALL POWER. AS THIS WAS A NEW CAR I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC AND HAD VEHICLES TURBO REPLACED. JUST OVER A YEAR LATER IN 2018 THE VEHICLE IS EXHIBITING THE EXACT SAME EFFECTS SUCH AS REMOVING AND REPLACING THE ECO,1.4L ENGINE, TURBOCHARGER, EVACUATE AND REPLACE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM, AND TRANSFER OF THE FUEL AND ELECTRICAL ASSEMBLIES AND ENGINE MOUNTS. I'M ALMOST CERTAIN THIS CAR IS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDS TO BE RECALLED.

MIL P0171 CODE, REPLACED 3 VALVE COVERS BECAUSE OF THE PCV AND NOW I'VE BEEN INFORMED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD IS DEFECTIVE.

DRIVING ALONG AT APPROXIMATELY 35MPH OUT AND SUDDENLY THE CAR LOST ALL ACCELERATION. IT WOULD GO IN REVERSE, BUT NOT FORWARD. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. ADDED SOME AUTOMATIC TRANS. FLUID AND THAT DID NOT HELP. REMOVED THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY FOR A FEW MINUTES TO "RESET". THE CAR WAS THEN ABLE TO MOVE FORWARD, BUT VERY SLOW ACCELERATION IN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, BUT I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE CODE CHECKED BECAUSE IT WAS TOO LATE IN THE EVENING. LIMPED THE CAR 20 MINUTES HOME. ONCE IN 3RD GEAR AND ABOVE, IT RAN FINE. BUT WHEN GOING FROM A DEAD STOP, IT WOULD TAKE FOREVER TO GET OUT OF 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. ADDITIONALLY, THE DASH DISPLAY NO LONGER WOULD SHOW THE DRIVE SHIFT CONTROL DISPLAY. ONLY SHOWED "D" AND NOT M1, ETC. GOT VEHICLE HOME AND IT NOW SHIFTS VERY HARD WHEN PUT IN REVERSE.

TAKATA RECALL, TRANSMISSION FAILURE, CAR NOT SHIFTING INTO GEARS. DRIVING ON CITY STREET AT A STOP LIGHT AND THE CAR WOULD NOT ADVANCE FORWARD, I HAD TO PHYSICALLY PUSH IT OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO LET TRAFFIC PASS. CAR WILL NOT ADVANCE IN FORWARD OR REVERSE.

CONDENSATION ON INSIDE WINDOWS

THE HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO THE COOLANT FOR THE AC SYSTEM ALWAYS BREAKS AND THE HEATING AND COOLING STOPS WORKING, THIS IS UNSAFE BECAUSE IT MAY CAUSE OVERHEATING OF THE ENGINE IF NOT REPAIRED.

SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING, SMOKES INTO THE INSIDE. IT'S BEEN NUMEROUS TIMES IN THE SHOP BUT IT KEEPS DOING THE SAME. ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THE DRIVER SEAT AND LIGHTING ALSO

YOU DRIVE FOR 15 MILES GOES INTO LIMP MODE HAVE PUT 3 TECOMS IN THE CAR AND STILL DOES THE SAME THING