2011 Chevrolet Cruze complaints

Negative battery cable shorting electrics while driving…

The contact owns a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the brake pedal was firm and difficult to depress. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and diagnosed as brake pump failure. The vehicle was not repaired and remained at the dealer, awaiting the brake pump part for replacement. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was over the 100,000 miles warranty and that the recall for the brake pump had expired in 2018. The failure mileage was approximately 110,000.

The contact owns a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that while reversing the vehicle, the brake pedal was depressed to the floorboard before the vehicle came to a complete stop. The contact's wife had also informed him of the brake failure while she was driving. The dealer was made aware of the failure but informed the contact that there was a recall repair for the vehicle under NHTSA Campaign Number: 13V360000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic) and that the manufacturer only guaranteed a one year or 20,000 miles for the recall repair. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact that only a free one time repair would be performed. The failure mileage was 99,178.

The car cuts out and jerks (has no power) (no warning lights) when accelerating or staying at a steady speed with engine light coming on or flashing. I've reported to dealership. So far, Don't know the cause of problem.

The car overheated out of nowhere. Oil busted out of the compartment it’s supposed to be held in and got all over my mechanical parts inside the vehicle. My car caught on fire from the bottom where the engine and transmission are. The car started rattling and giving me warnings to get out of the vehicle because the vehicle was unsafe. It gave me the warning that the engine is idle, Engine locked up, and also an coolant issue. The car didn’t have issues before this. I literally had to jump out of the car with my family. The warning light for the engine and coolant came on. There hasn’t been In problems prior to this other than changing a sensor. The insurance was notified and don’t have a solution. We’re trying to figure out what to do because it’s not driveable. Going to contact Chevy dealer or GM as well.

Real bad oil leak my oil been leaking for months and a intake manifold code P2076 I really need this problem fix. I done spend a lot of money getting this car repaired everytime I get this Chevy Cruze out the shop something else wrongs I can’t out no more money into this car too many car problems I haven’t drove this car in 3 weeks because I was driving somewhere and white smoke started coming out the tailpipe bad somebody called the fire department and police on me that’s how bad the smoke was coming out the tailpipe mind you I had just got the car out the shop i had got code P0303 fix this car cost me alot of money I got alot of repairs done on this car

MY TRUNK IS COMING OPEN ON ITS OWN. SOMETIMES WHEN I UNLOCK MY CAR THE TRUNK WILL POP OPEN OTHER TIMES IT WILL JUST POP OPEN WHEN I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. IT IS NOT MY KEY FOB BECAUSE I HAVE USED DIFFERENT KEY FOBS THAT I HAVE AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL HAPPENING. THIS IS DANGEROUS WHEN DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. THIS CAN HAPPEN WHEN IT'S SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. OVERNIGHT I WAKE UP IN THE MORNING AND THE TRUNK IS OPEN OR WHEN I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. THIS STARTED HAPPENING JUST THIS MONTH AND HAS BEEN HAPPENING SPORADICALLY BUT AT LEAST ONCE A DAY IF NOT MORE. I'VE DONE SOME RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET AND I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE THIS IS HAPPENING TO WITH THEIR CHEVY CRUZE. I THINK IT RECALL IS AN ORDER BEFORE A WRECK DOES HAPPEN IF IT HASN'T ALREADY.

MANY OCCURRENCES OF PUSHING THE ACCELERATOR, AND THE CAR HAVING A DELAYED REACTION TO ACCELERATE. THIS HAS ALMOST CAUSED COLLISIONS WITH OTHER VEHICLES WHEN COMING FROM A STOP IN A PARKING LOT ONTO A MAIN ROAD.

ISSUE 1: CAR JERKS WHILE AT LOW SPEEDS AND SOMETIMES ACTS LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL, EVEN THOUGH MY GEAR IS IN DRIVE. ISSUE 2: WHEN I PUT MY CAR INTO REVERSE, THEN TO DRIVE, THE CAR ACTS LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL, INSTEAD OF DRIVE. THE ENGINE REVS, BUT DOESN'T MOVE, UNLESS I HAPPEN TO BE ON A HILL, AT WHICH POINT IT WILL ROLL, WITHOUT ME WANITING IT TO. IN ORDER TO GO INTO DRIVE I HAVE TO PUT ON THE BRAKE AND PUT IT INTO PARK, LET GO OF THE BRAKE, PUT THE BRAKE BACK ON THEN PUT THE GEAR BACK IN DRIVE FOR IT TO MOVE FORWARD. ISSUE 3: CAR RUNS IN GEAR 1 AND 2, BUT WILL NOT SHIFT TO ANOTHER GEAR. WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING, THE ENGINE JUST REVS, BUT YOU CAN'T GO PAST A VERY LOW SPEED. I BOUGHT THIS CAR BRAND NEW IN 2011, IT HAS 80,000 MILES. I DON'T EXPECT IT TO BE A PERFECT CAR, BUT FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO ALREADY BE OUT, ISN'T RIGHT. IT'S DANGEROUS. PLEASE DO THE RIGHT THING AND INVESTIGATE THIS CAR'S TRANSMISSION. EVERYONE IS HAVING THIS SAME ISSUE WITH THIS PARTICULAR CAR. PLEASE. I'M BEGGING.

PASSENGER SIDE WIPE BLADE STOPPED WORKING WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY DURING WINTER CONDITIONS. EXTREMELY DANGEROUS IN SNOW ON THE HIGHWAY. NEEDS TO BE FIXED ASAP.

AFTER I DID AN OIL CHANGE ON MY CAR IT BEGAN TO LEAK A LITTLE AND BUILD UP ON THE UNDERCARRIAGE SHIELD OF THE CAR THEN LEAVING A SMALL PUDDLE

BOTH OF MY KEYS HAVE BROKEN OFF. THANKFULLY, THEY'VE NEVER BEEN STUCK IN MY IGNITION, BUT THEY HAVE BOTH SNAPPED OFF. I WAS PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY (I HAD JUST ARRIVED) AND WENT TO TURN MY IGNITION OFF AND THE KEY SNAPPED AT THE BASE, BY WHERE THE PIN HOLDS IT. THE KEY ITSELF IS OK, BUT COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM THE BASE OR HOUSING. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED, I THOUGHT MY 11 YEAR OLD BROKE THE FIRST ONE SO I HAVE BEEN USING THE SPARE. THE BREAK LOOKS EXACTLY THE SAME THIS TIME AS THE FIRST TIME, I JUST MUST HAVE DROPPED THE ACTUAL KEY PART OUT WITHOUT NOTICING.

NO 2ND OR 6ST GEAR IN TRANSMISSION

I LEASED A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE AND HAD IT LESS THAN 1 MONTH. DEER WERE IN THE RD, SO I SLOWED DOWN, THEN BRAKES LOCKED, I WENT OVER AN EMBANKMENT INTO A LIGHTPOLE. TOTAL LOSS, TRANSPORTED VIA EMS TO MMMHC HOSPITAL, UNCONSCIOUS FOR HALF HOUR MY MEMORY IS NOW HORRIBLE, I HAVE BAD HEADACHES, MY BACK IS HORRIBLE AND IM WITHOUT A VEHICLE. I WASNT DRIVING ABOVE SPEED LIMIT. NO COLLISION WARNING AND I'VE BEEN TO ER AND MY DR MANY TIMES

THE CAR IS HESITATING AFTER STOPPING WHETHER ITS A LIGHT OR SIGN ALSO HAS WHILE IN MOTION WHICH ALMOST GOT ME HIT! !T1HERE IS ALSO A BURNING SMELL AT TIMES! I HAVE HAD IT LOOKED AT WITHIN THE MONTH AND THEY SAID IT WAS A SENSOR , NO-ONE SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT TO DO ! BOU8GHT THIS CAR FROM HONDA IN ANDERSON INDIANA!! ITS HAD PROBLEMS THE WHOLE TIME I'VE HAD IT1 ILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CRUZE

THE VEHICLE SHUT DOWN WHILE DRIVING, WARNING, "BATTERY SAVINGS MODE" CAME ON. VEHICLE WAS TOWED, HAS NOT SINCE STARTED BACK UP. KEY'S WILL NOT REMOVE FROM THE IGNITION. I BELIEVE IT IS DUE TO FAULTY WIRING CAUSING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TO SHORT OUT, ALTHOUGH, I AM UNCERTAIN.

ENGINE BLEW ON THE FREEWAY WITH EVERYTHING BEING LOOKED AT AND TOPPED OFF THE DAY BEFORE

THE TRANSMISSION LEAKS SO MUCH WE PUT NEW FLUIDS IN ALMOST ON THE DAILY AND THERE'S ALWAYS SENSOR LIGHTS ON ON THE DASHBOARD

SPILLING AND DRIPPING OIL COLLECTED IN THE OIL PAN NEAR THE HOT ENGINE APPEARS TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH THE ENGINE OR OIL COOLER. BURNS AND SMELLS AS IF SOMETHING MAY CAUSE A FIRE.

THE 2011 CHEVY CRUZE ECO HAS BEEN HAVING A COUPLE ISSUES FROM THERE BEING A SMALL OIL LEAK COMING FROM THE ENGINE IT DRIPS MORE AFTER DRIVING AND ALSO ANOTHER LITTLE LEAK TOWARD THE BACK OF THE CAR THEN ALSO MY STABLITRAK AND TRACTION CONTROL ISSUES KEPT ME FROM GETTING OUT OF AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE MY WHEELS DIDN'T MOVE THE WAY I PLANNED TOO, THE RADIATOR FAN ALSO HAS BEEN WORKING HARDER THEN USUALLY IT NON STOP IS BLOWING VERY HARD TO KEEP THE CAR COOL. LAST UNDER THE CAR THE BOTTOM TRAYS HAVE SOME OIL BUILDING UP AND BUILDING UP

ALSO FROM THE OTHER COMPLAINT I'VE MADE ON MY 20011 CHEVY CRUZE ECO IS THAT WHEN I'VE TRIED STARTING MY CAR IT SKIPPED THEN WAS HAVING TROUBLE STARTING SO I TOOK MY KEY OUT AND GOT ANOTHER CAR AND HOOKED THE JUMPER CABLES UP TO IT AND LET IT CHARGE FOR A LITTLE WHILE THEN I PUT THE KEY INTO THE IGNITION AND HAD TROUBLE STARTING IT UP IT STARTED UP FIRST TRY JUST NOT AS USUAL IT TOOK ABOUT A COUPLE SECOND INSTEAD OF INSTANTLY STARTING UP THIS MAKE ME BELIEVE THAT THE CAUSE OF THIS IS A FAULTY IGNITION OR ALTERNATOR THE ONLY DAMAGED CAUSED FROM THE ACCIDENT WAS THE HEADLIGHT AND PASSENGER FENDER AND BUMPER BODY THE ONLY DAMAGED PART ON THE UNDER THE HOOD WAS THE AIR BOX INTAKE AND A HOSE MOVED AROUND BUT NOT DAMAGED

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OVERHEATING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT OIL AND COOLANT WERE MIXING IN THE ENGINE AND THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE RADIATOR, WATER PUMP, THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND COOLANT RESERVOIR WERE REPLACED. SIR WALTER CHEVROLET (8501 GLENWOOD AVE, RALEIGH, NC 27612), WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE AND AN APPOINTMENT WAS SCHEDULED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 12V288000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 103,000.

I'VE RECEIVED A LETTER FROM GENERAL MOTORS AWARING ME ABOUT THE POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (PCV) PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE. THAT MAY DEVELOP A CONDITION WITH MY VEHICLE, AND I BELIEVE MY VEHICLE IS IN THE CONDITION AS THEY DESCRIBED. BUT THE I CAN ONLY GET IT REPAIR AT NO COST IF MY VEHICLE WAS LESS THEN 120,000 MILES. I BOUGHT THE CAR IN JUNE 2020 AT 160,000 MILES. MY CONCERN IS THAT NOW KNOWING ABOUT THIS ISSUE WORRIES ME AND MY FAMILY'S SAFETY GETTING AROUND. AS THIS IS MY MAIN VEHICLE USE TO GET TO WORK, ETC.

WHEN ACCELERATING THE CAR IT TAKES A MOMENT TO ACTUALLY GO WHICH HAS LEFT ME SITTING IN INTERSECTIONS ETC. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM SINCE IT IS A WIRE RELAY NOT A CABLE RELAY SO IT CAUSES A DELAY IN SENDING THE MESSAGE TO THE MOTOR.

2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE LTZ DOOR HANDLE CHROME PLATING IS PEALING OFF AND HAS CREATED A SHARP EDGE THAT CUTS ON CONTACT.

THE DRIVERS SIDE HEATED SEAT STOPPED WORKING AT ABOUT 20,000 MILES! WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE $800.00 TO REPAIR! I HAVE M.S. AND THAT WAS THE MAIN REASON I BOUGHT A CAR WITH HEATED SEATS!

CRUZE CONTROL FAILS TO REMAIN SET AND TURNS OFF ON IT'S OWN RESULTING IN REDUCTION OF SPEED WHEN TRAVELING. REAR SEAT BELT BUCKLES BECOME NON-FUNCTIONAL AND WON'T FASTEN, POSING A SAFETY HAZARD AND MAKING THE REAR SEATS UNUSABLE FOR PASSENGERS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER FAILED TO OPERATE AS DESIGNED. THE CONTACT CONTACTED RIVERVIEW CHEVROLET (1063 LONG RUN RD, MCKEESPORT, PA 15132, (888) 733-9695) WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE DEFROSTER NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED AND THE DASHBOARD HAD TO BE DETACHED AND RE-ATTACHED TO DO SO. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL REGARDING THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000.

AIR BAG LIGHT STAYS ON.

CODE P1101 SITTING IN A PARKING LOT IN CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITHIN 24 HOURS OF BUYING THE CAR

IN A FRONT IMPACT CRASH GOING 60 MPH THE CRUZE HIT A GUARDRAIL CABLE DESTROY THE FRONT OF CAR AND NO AIRBAGS WENT OFF.

VEHICLE'S ENGINE HAS BEEN OVERHEATING SINCE THE DAY I GOT IT. ENGINE LEAKING OIL. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION, HEAD COVER GASKET, VALVE COVER AND WATER PUMP ALL REPAIRED. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON AND NO MECHANIC CAN FIGURE OUT WHY. VEHICLE STILL OVERHEATS AND LEAKS OIL.

TO WHOM THIS MAY CONCERN, THIS VEHICLE HAS ISSUES WITH STABILTRAK/TRACTION CONTROL. THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN SERVICED ROUTINELY THROUGHOUT THE TIME I HAVE HAD IT. THIS VEHICLE WAS BROUGHT IN AT THE DEALERSHIP UPON RECEIVING THE LETTER FOR THE RECALL, I DO NOT THINK THIS WAS THOROUGHLY INSPECTED. IT WAS UNDER TEN MINUTES, THAT I WAS TOLD THE VEHICLE DIDN'T HAVE A PROBLEM. IN MY OPINION, THIS WAS TOTALLY INCORRECT. THE PROBLEM PERSISTED STILL TO THIS DAY. NOBODY REPORTED THIS PROBLEM, WHICH COULD BE A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN FOR MY FAMILY AND I. THIS WILL BE THE FIRST INVESTIGATION INTO THIS MATTER. IF THE DEALERSHIP DID SAY THEY THOROUGHLY INSPECTED IT, WHY DIDN'T THEY REPORT THIS MATTER TO YOU, WHICH WOULD BE LANDERS MCCLARTY CHEVROLET, HUNTSVILLE AL. I HAVE DONE MAJOR RESEARCH AND THIS MATTER IS UNACCEPTABLE. THE DEALERSHIP WAS COMPLETELY IN THE WRONG. NONE OF THIS MATTER WAS HANDLED CORRECTLY, WHY DIDN'T I GET ANY DETAILS OR DOCUMENTATION. WHY WASN'T IT REPORTED?? I'M GONNA CONTINUE TO SEARCH FOR PAPERWORK, AND THE EXACT DATES WHICH I TOOK IT THERE. I WILL BE IN CONTACT WITH MY LAWYER, AND GET ANY PAPERWORK AND EVIDENCE REVIEWED. THE STABILTRAK LIGHT STAYS ON, AND CAUSED ME NOT TO GO INTO REVERSE. THE STEERING COMPLETELY WENT DOWN AND PARKING ASSIST, AS WELL AS TRACTION CONTROL IS ALWAYS ON. THIS HAS BEEN A COMPLETE DISASTER. I ASK YOU WITH COMPLETE SINCERITY, TO FOLLOW UP. MY FAMILY'S LIFE SHOULDN'T BE IN JEOPARDY BECAUSE OF AN IMPROPER INVESTIGATION. THIS DEALERSHIP WILL NEED T

THE 'AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP' WARNING KEEPS COMING ON, THE AC WON'T WORK AND THE TEMP GAUGE GOES BACK TO ZERO. WE HAVE HAD THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR REPLACED AND THE RADIATOR TEMP SENSOR REPLACED ALSO AND WE ARE STILL HAVING THIS ISSUE! ALONG WITH THE DASH AND POWER STEERING GOES OUT RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING.

ME AND MY BOYFRIEND WERE DRIVING IN CALCUTTA OHIO WE WENT TO PULL OUT OF A PARKING LOT TO GO TO MCDONALD'S AND WE LOOKED BOTH WAYS AND WE WERE CLEAR TO GO AND BY THE TIME WE HIT THE CENTER TURNING LANE AND STARTED TO TURN INTO MCDONALD'S AND A JEEP CAME FLYING OUT OF NO WHERE AND OUR VEHICLES COLLIDED CAUSING FRONT END DAMAGE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY IN THE CAR. *TR

STEERING WHEEL IS LOOSE AND MOVES SIDE TO SIDE

MY VEHICLE WAS RECALLED FOR THE VALVE COVER GASKET WHICH MAY LEAK OIL AND DROP DOWN CAUSING A FIRE. I WAS TOLD BY THE DEALERSHIP THAT THIS WAS FIXED UPON TAKEN IT TO A MECHANIC BECAUSE THE OIL WAS DRIPPING DOWN CAUSING SMOKE AND THE PART THAT IT WAS DRIPPING ON WAS RED HOT WHICH WAS THE COIL WIRE. WAS IN FACT NOT FIXED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HER SON WAS DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, ATTEMPTING TO SLOW DOWN THE BRAKES BEGAN TO LOCK. THERE WAS SMOKE COMING FROM THE DASHBOARD OF THE VEHICLE. THE DRIVER PULLED OVER AND WAS ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE BY APPLYING EXCESSIVE PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE PEDAL. THE DRIVER AND THE PASSENGER OF THE VEHICLE WERE ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE BY KICKING THE DOORS TO FORCE THEM TO OPEN. ONCE THE PASSENGER WAS ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE WAS ENGULFED IN FLAMES. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS CALLED AND EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. A FIRE DEPARTMENT REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED AND DEEMED TOTALED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES AND NO MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS NEEDED. THE CONTACT SPOKE WITH FORT DODGE FORD TOYOTA LINCOLN (2723 5TH AVE S, FORT DODGE, IA 50501 PHONE: (515) 576-7505) WHO INFORMED THE CONTACT OF A RECALL FOR THE BRAKES AND LOW OIL LEAKING CAUSING A FIRE. THE VEHICLE'S VIN WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V36000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULICS) HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WAS NEVER REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE 188,000.

THE CRUZE SPUTTERS OR HESITATES WHEN BRAKED OR IDLING, THE SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICES STABILITRAK CAME ON ALONG WITH A FLASHING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I LOOSE POWER AND FEEL LIKE I'M NEEDING TO PRESS A LOT HARDER ON THE GAS TO ACCELERATE.

EVERY TIME I PUT GAS IN MY CAR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, CAR STALLS AND WONT START BACK UP. I PUT GAS IN AND EITHER LATER THAT DAY OR THE NEXT, I'M DRIVING AND IT STARTS TO STUTTER AND I IT'S HARD TO ACCELERATE. IT BEGINS TO SHAKE LIGHTLY AND THE IT SHUTS DOWN. IN THE PAST THREE MONTHS, I HAVE SPENT OVER $1500 TRYING TO DIAGNOSE AND FIX THE PROBLEM. I HAVE RUN OUT OF TOWS FROM MY INSURANCE AND AM NOW PAYING OUT OF POCKET. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THIS ISSUE, TOO MANY PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

FIRST TIME THE PROBLEM OCCURRED, I HAD JUST STARTED DRIVING AND MY CAR WOULD NOT SHIFT INTO THE NEXT GEAR, LEAVING ME DOING 20 MILES PER HOUR TO A SAFE PARKING SPOT. I WAS NO LONGER ABLE TO REVERSE. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT THEN CAME ON. FUSE CHANGED FOR INDICATOR LIGHT AND TRANSMISSION FLUID CHECKED(FLUIDS FINE). CAR BEGAN WORKING WITH NO EXPLANATION. SECOND INCIDENT WAS BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY, AFTER USING THE CAR WITHOUT INCIDENT EARLIER. WENT INTO REVERSE FINE. BACKED OUT, ONLY TO DISCOVER I COULD NOT GO FORWARD INTO DRIVE. DRIVE ACTED AS IF IN PARK. REVERSE WORKED. NEUTRAL WORKED AS IF IN REVERSE. HAD TO BACK INTO A SAFE PARKING SPACE ON THE STREET INSTEAD OF PULLING BACK INTO DRIVEWAY. ALMOST RAN OVER MY SON THAT WAS GOING TO PUSH MY CAR WHILE IN NEUTRAL, DUE TO THE FACT THAT ONCE THE CAR WAS IN NEUTRAL, IT WAS STILL REVERSING.

THE CAR OVERHEATS, THIS IS THE 2ND TIME REPLACING THE MOTOR. THE FIRST TIME I REPLACED THE MOTOR, IT WAS NOT THE ORIGINAL MOTOR. I BOUGHT THE CAR USED. THE PREVIOUS OWNER REPLACED THE MOTOR.

THERE IS A BAD OIL LEAK ON THE CAR THAT I WASN'T INFORMED OF AND THE OIL PLUG HAS BEEN STRIPPED OUT AND THERE IS OIL ALL UNDER THE MOTOR AND YOU CAN SMELL IT WHEN PARKED AND IT'S STARTING TO COME THROUGH THE VENTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAR

IT LEAKS MOTOR OIL EVERYTIME IT GETS CHANGED,THERES ALWAYS A HUGE PILE OF OIL ON THE GROUND, I CAN ALSO MOVE THE GEAR SHIFT WITHOUT NEEDING TO PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL . OVERALL ITS BEEN A HASSEL TO DEAL WITH IT.

WE PURCHASED A 2011 CHEVY CRUZ WITH LESS THAN 100K MILES. IN THE 2 YEARS WE'VE HAD IT WE'VE REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION, OIL COOLER, AND ALL THE HOSES. THE FURTHEST WE'VE DRIVEN IT IS 400MILES IN A TRIP. WE HAVEN'T TAKEN IT UP MOUNTAINS, AND WE KEEP UP WITH MAINTENANCE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT 45 MPH, WHEN THE SHE SAW SMOKE EXITING FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT STATED SHE WAS ABLE TO PARK ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND WHEN INSPECTING UNDER THE HOOD SHE SAW OIL LEAKING FORM THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DRIVABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND INFORMED NEEDING THE ENGINE TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT SHE HAD EXPERIENCED THE SAME FAILURE 2 ADDITIONAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED AS OF YET. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 92,000.

CAR HAS CONSTANTLY BEEN SLOW IN SHIFTING GEARS WHEN IN AUTOMATIC

WHEN SLOWING TO A STOP FROM 2ND GEAR, THE CAR SHIFTS HARD AND JERKS BACK WHEN SHIFTING DOWN INTO FIRST GEAR. OFTEN TIMES, WHEN ACCELERATING FROM A STOP, THE CAR DOESN'T ACTUALLY GET POWER; THE RPMS JUMP TO ABOUT 6000 AND THE CAR DOESN'T MOVE. WHILE DRIVING, IT FEELS LIKE TENSION AGAINST THE GAS PEDAL WHILE THE CAR FEELS LIKE IT'S DRAGGING BACK AND BOGGING DOWN (THE RPMS DON'T INDICATE BOGGING, BUT THAT'S WHAT IT FEELS LIKE). WHEN IT FINALLY CATCHES A GEAR, IT JERKS BACKWARDS AND ALMOST FEELS LIKE IT'S GOING TO STALL OUT.

THE TRANSMISSION OF THE CAR IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY. IT JUMPS EVERY TIME I PRESS THE GAS PEDAL AND JUMPS WHEN THE CAR IS ON THE ROAD.

MY LIGHTING HAS BEEN MESSED UP SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR. ALL MY LIGHTS RANDOMLY DIM, MY BREAK LIGHTS FLICKER LIKE THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. MY TURBO HAS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT, BUT NO CODES. THE CAR DOESN'T ACCELERATE LIKE IT'S SUPPOSED TO. ALL THIS OCCURS WHEN MOVING. BREAKS OBVIOUSLY WHENEVER HIT THE BREAKS.