2013 Nissan Altima complaints

WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE ON A MAINTAINED TWO LANE COUNTY ROAD AT THE POSTED SPEED LIMIT THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY DARTED ACROSS THE ROAD AND BECAME INCREASINGLY DIFFICULT TO STEER. ONCE STOPPED, YOU COULD SEE THE THE VEHICLES LEFT REAR PASSENGER SIDE TIRE WAS TILTED IN AND RENDERED INOPERABLE. I HAVE ATTACHED PHOTOS OF THE CONTROL ARM BOTH WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED FROM AND FROM THE REPAIR STATION IT WAS TOWED TO. THE CONTROL ARM WAS RUSTED AND BROKE AWAY FROM THE FRAME/PROPER CONNECTION. WE HAVE BEEN ADVISED BY THE AUTO REPAIR SHOP THAT BOTH REAR CONTROL ARMS NEED TO BE REPLACED, THE BROKEN ONE AND THE OPPOSITE SIDE. THE REAR DRIVERS SIDE IS IN THE SAME CONDITION. THIS VEHICLE ONLY HAS 86,100 MILES ON IT.

THE HEADLIGHT'S ON THE 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA ARE VERY BAD, THEY PUT OUT NO LIGHTING. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFTEY ISSUE FOR NISSAN. SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE

VEHICLE WILL SHUT OFF WHEN DRIVING

AFTER A FEW YEARS OF NORMAL OPERATION THE LOW-BEAM HEADLIGHTS ARE NO LONGER EFFECTIVE. THEY ARE TOO DIM TO RELY ON WHILE DRIVING ON DARK ROADS/HIGHWAYS. MUST USE HIGH-BEAMS FOR PROPER VISIBILITY. REPLACING BULBS DOES NOT HELP.

47,000 MILES HEADLIGHTS BARELY VISIBLE ON LOW BEAM

HAVE NOTICED THAT MY DIM LIGHTS HAVE GOTTEN SO DIM IT IS HARD TO SEE THE ROAD AT NIGHT. I LIVE IN THE COUNTRY SO TRAVELING AT NIGHT USING LOW BEAMS IS OUT OF THE QUESTION, I USE HIGH BEANS. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS REGARDING THE SAME PROBLEM AND BELIEVE THAT THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL PROBLEM. I HAVE NOTICED THE RANGE OF REPAIR ESTIMATES GO ANYWHERE FROM $499 TO $1,600. SINCE ALL COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE DIM LOW LIGHT PROBLEM SEEM TO BE IDENTICAL, IT SOUNDS LIKE A MANUFACTURER'S PROBLEM. I HAVE BARELY 40,000 ON MY CAR AND HAVE LOVED IT, BUT THIS LOW BEAM PROBLEM IS BECOMING A NUISANCE AND A SAFETY FACTOR.

ONE TAKATA AIRBAG WAS RECALLED AND REPAIRED. THE SECOND TAKATA AIRBAG HAS DEVELOPED THE SAME FAULTY READOUT ON THE DASHBOARD AND SHOULD BE PART OF THE RECALL. DEALER (RIP-OFF) QUOTED NEARLY $5K TO REPAIR WHICH IS ELECTRICAL, IS NOT FAULTY THROUGH MISUSE, AND SHOULD BE NISSAN RESPONSIBILITY. PLEASE HELP THIS VETERAN'S WIDOW.

REAR CONTROL ARM ON MY NISSAN ALTIMA 2013 CAME APART ON AN INTERSTATE PUSHING ME ON TO THE LEFT LANE ALMOST AT 65 MPH. GOT REALLY SCARED AS I USUALLY DRIVE WITH MY NEW BORN BUT LUCKILY HE WAS NOT IN THE CAR WHEN THIS HAPPENED. THE CAR HAS LESS THAN 60K MILES AND I HAD TO REPLACE THEM ON BOTH SIDES ON THE REAR AS THEY MENTIONED THE OTHER ONE TOO IS GOING TO BREAK SOON. REALLY DISAPPOINTED AS HAD TO MAKE A HUGE REPAIR SPENDING 1300 BUCKS FOR A CAR THAT IS ONLY USED TO RUN FEW ERRANDS OVER THE WEEKEND AS I COMMUTE ON TRAIN FOR WORK. *DT*JB

AIRBAG LIGHT HAS BEEN COMING ON FOR ALMOST A YEAR. REPORTED TO DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES. FIRST VISIT TO DEALERSHIP IT WAS A CODE ISSUE. SECOND TIME SERVICED IT WAS UNPLUGGED UNDER THE SEAT, COST $142.00. A WEEK LATER IT CAME ON AGAIN AND DEALERSHIP REPORTS THE ENTIRE DRIVER'S SEAT AIRBAG NEEDS TO BE REPLACE AT THE TUNE OF $1900. EXTENDED WARRANTY DOESN'T COVER IT

SHIFT SOLENOID HAS SMALL METAL PLATE THAT BENDS OVER TIME AND LOSES CONTACT THE SHIFTER. THIS MAKES CAR IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT FROM PARK WITHOUT DEPRESSING THE SHIFT LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER. AFTER DISCOVERING FIX, I DISMANTLED THE SHIFTER AND BENT THE SOLENOID PLATE BACK TO THE ORIGINAL POSITION BUT A FEW MONTHS LATER, THE METAL PLATE HAS BENT AGAIN. THIS SMALL METAL PLATE SEEMS QUITE THIN AND FLIMSY. SEARCH THE WEB, LOTS OF PEOPLE HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE OCCUR TO THEIR ALTIMAS.

AFTER DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY FOR 35-40 MINUTES MY CAR WON'T ACCELERATE WHEN I HAVE THE GAS PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND MY SPED STARTS DROPPING EVEN WHEN CRUSE CONTROL IS SET.

HEADLIGHTS ARE VERY DIM. HAVE CHANGED BULBS A COUPLE OF TIMES BUT STILL DIM. DID SOME RESEARCH AND SEEN THERE IS A PROBLEM

MY TRANSMISSION IS NOT WORKING IT HAS CAUSE I AS WELL AS MY FIANCE TO HAVE TO MISS WORK SOMETIMES BECAUSE OF THE CVT THE CAR SHAKES AND SHUTTERS AND CUTS OFF THIS HAPPENED TO ME WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY AND MY FIANCE WHERE WE COULD HAVE BEEN HIT AND ENDED UP IN A BAD ACCIDENT.

THE PROBLEM WE ENCOUNTERED WAS, WHEN LEAVING TO GO TO THE MOVIES, WE HEARD A LARGE BANG WENT TO SEE IF SOMETHING WAS UNDER THE CAR. NEXT WE DROVE A FEW FEET AND HEARD A DRAGGING NOISE. UPON INSPECTION THE REAR TIRE WAS OUT OF LINE. WHEN CHECKING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR, WE WERE TAKEN BACK BY WHAT WE SAW. THE ENTIRE PART OF THE CAR WAS RUSTED AND THE FRAME HAD RUSTED AWAY FROM THE MAIN PART OF THE CAR. WE HAD GONE OUT THE NIGHT BEFORE AND WERE ON THE HIGHWAY GOING AT LEAST 50 MPH, HAD THIS HAPPENED THEN WE WOULD HAVE BEEN KILLED. THAT NIGHT WE WERE HEADING TOWARD THE HIGHWAY TO GO TO THE MOVIES. I CAN'T BELIEVE THE CONDITION OF THE CAR. THIS CAR IS KEPT IN THE GARAGE AND THE UNDERSIDE HAD BEEN HOSED DOWN TO KEEP THE SALT FROM HARMING THE UNDERSIDE. I HAVE LOOKED INTO THIS AND FOUND THESE CARS HAVE HAD MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE RUST UNDERNEATH THESE CARS. IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR YEARS. SOME AROUND 2005 AND SOME EVEN OLDER THAT THAT. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHY THERE HADN'T HAD A RECALL IN REGARDS TO THIS COMPLETE RUST PROBLEM ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THESE CARS. I THINK WE MAY HAVE A CASE AGAINST NISSAN AFTER REVIEWING AND HAVING THE KNOWLEDGE OF ALL THE CARS DEALING WITH THIS PROBLEM.MOST OF THESE PEOPLE SAID THEY WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER NISSAN BECAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM. I WILL HAVE TO HAVE THE PHOTO'S SENT LATER AS I DO NOT HAVE THE PHONE WITH THEM ON IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES ON ALL FOUR DOORS FAILED INTERMITTENTLY. WHEN THE DOOR HANDLES WERE USED, WITH OR WITHOUT THE UNLOCK FUNCTION, THEY FRACTURED AND WERE CONTINUALLY REPLACED. NEW CITY NISSAN (2295 N KING ST, HONOLULU, HI 96819, (808) 524-9111) WAS NOTIFIED AND SUGGESTED REPLACING THE SAME OEM PARTS. THE DEALER ALSO STATED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL AND THE WARRANTY EXPIRED FOR THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

GEAR SHIFT LOCKED IN PARK.

I WAS PARKED FOR ABOUT 5 MINS WITH ENGINE RUNNING WHEN I NOTICED THE DISPLAY WITH GAS/ODOMETER/SPEED TURNED OFF. TRIED TURNING ON/OFF BUT STILL WON'T LIGHT UP. CHECKED THE HEADLIGHTS AND SIGNALS AND THEY WORKED. JUST SCARY THAT I'M PRACTICALLY DRIVING BLIND COZ I CAN'T SEE MY SPEED. ALSO, CAN'T TELL HOW MUCH GAS I HAVE LEFT. THE CAR HAS ABOUT 104K MILES. IT'S BARELY 7 YEARS OLD AND A COMPUTER PROBLEM SEEMS A BIT TOO EARLY. IT WAS PRE-OWNED SO I'M NOT SURE IF IT HAD PREVIOUS PROBLEMS.

PASSENGER REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM FAILED DUE TO CORROSION NEAR THE FRAME CONNECTION POINT WHILE TRAVELLING AT A LOW RATE OF SPEED OVER A SPEED BUMP IN PARKING LOT. DRIVERS SIDE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM ALSO SHOWING SIGNS OF CORROSION. CAR DRIVEN IN MN WITH 90,000 MILES.

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF A 2013 NISSAN ULTIMA AND THE HEADLIGHTS ARE INEFFECTIVE AND A SAFETY HAZARD! THEY HAVE CONTINUED TO E TO NOT BE BRIGHT AND VERY DIM CAUSING ME NOT TO SEE AND TO CONTINUALLY USE MY HIGHBEAMS IN ORDER TO SEE AT NIGHT. NISSAN IS VERY AWARE OF THIS ISSUE BUT WILL NOT DO A RECALL. I'VE COMPLAINED ENOUGH GONE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND NISSAN CORPORATION THEY'VE REPLACED THE BULBS THEY KNOW THAT THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY NEEDS TO BE REPLACED BUT THEY WILL NOT PAY FOR IT AND IT IS A HUGE SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD. I GOT PULLED OVER BY A POLICEMAN THAT SAID YOU MUST GET THIS TAKEN CARE OF BECAUSE YOU CANNOT DRIVE WITH HIGHBEAMS ON ALL THE TIME THAT'S HOW BAD IT IS I CANNOT DRIVE MY CAR AT NIGHT WITHOUT USING HIGHBEAMS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED, THE TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT IMMEDIATELY SHIFT INTO GEAR. AFTER SHIFTING INTO DRIVE AND REVERSE, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURES WAS NOT DETERMINED. HERB CHAMBERS NISSAN (273 TURNPIKE RD, WESTBOROGH, MA) AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS PREVIOUSLY SERVICED FOR THE SAME FAILURES AND THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE WAS REPROGRAMMED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 74,000.

I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK AT 6:15AM. THE CONTROL ARM BROKE WHILE I WAS MOVING AT 65 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY. THE CAR BECOME EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO CONTROL, AS IF I WERE SLIDING ON ICE, HOWEVER IT IS JUNE 2019. I WAS LUCKY THAT I WASN'T INJURED OR KILLED. THERE WERE NO CARS NEAR ME, SO I PULLED OVER. IT WOULD SEEM TO ME THAT THE STEEL CONTROL ARM HAD METAL FATIGUE OR SOME OTHER SORT OF DEFECT. I AM 60 YEARS OLD, AND HAVE NEVER HAD THIS HAPPEN WITH ANY OTHER CAR. THE CAR DOES HAVE 165,000 MILES ON IT, ALL HIGHWAY. THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN WITH A 2013 MODEL YEAR. I FEEL THAT THE NISSAN PRODUCTS ARE NOT SAFE.

AFTER DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS FOR 25/30 MINUTES AND STOPPING THE CAR WON'T ACCELERATE WITH THE GAS PEDAL PUSHED ALL THE WAY FOR 10 TO 15 SECONDS. ON 6/20/2019 I STOPPED AT A LIGHT, THE CAR WOULDN'T ACCELERATE AND THEN STARTED JERKING IN A MANNER THAT SEEMED AS IF THE CAR WAS IN THE WRONG GEAR. AFTER THIS HAPPENED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THE CODE READS AS A FAULTY SOLENOID IN THE TRANSMISSION.AFTER TAKING IT TO A NISSAN DEALER I WAS TOLD I NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION. THIS PROBLEM IS SIMILAR TO A RECALL THAT WAS ISSUED IN 2017 WITH THE GAS PEDAL AND TRANSMISSION ACTING MESSED UP. IF I STOP THE CAR AND TURN IT OFF THEN IMMEDIATELY BACK ON THE PROBLEM DISAPPEARS. THUS IS A SAFETY HAZARD BECAUSE I CAN'T ALWAYS RESTART THE CAR IN A SAFE LOCATION BUT IF I DON'T I COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT WHEN MY CAR WON'T ACCELERATE PROPERLY. BECAUSE OF THE SIMILARITIES TO THE LAST RECALL AND THE FACT THAT THE PROBLEM IS NOT CONSISTENT I BELIEVE THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH THE COMPUTER.

WHILE DRIVING ON A CITY STREET THE RIGHT REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM BROKE AWAY AT THE PIVOT CONNECTION ON THE BODY. THE CONTROL ARM AT THE PIVOT CONNECTION IS HEAVILY RUSTED. THE LEFT REAR CONTROL ARM IS STILL CONNECTED BUT IS ALSO HEAVILY RUSTED.

VEHICLE STOPPED AT STOP LIGHT AND STALLED. RESTARTED VEHICLE AND PUT INTO DRIVE AND STALLED AGAIN. DID THIS 6 TIMES. CONTACTED TOWING SERVICE AND TOWED A BLOCK AWAY TO A SERVICE STATION. THEY TOLD ME THAT I NEEDED TO GO TO A NISSAN DEALER, THEN HAD VEHICLE TOWED TO MATT CASTRUCCI NISSAN. WHERE THE VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY LOCATED. THE SERVICE TECH. STATED THE TRANSMISSION NEEDS TO BE REPLACED ALONG WITH THE BATTERY. THE VEHICLE HAS 88,000 MILES AND HAVE READ THAT NISSAN EXTENDED WARRANTY TO 120,000, BUT THAT MAY VEHICLE IS NOT INCLUDED IN THIS. WHY NOT? THEY STATED THAT THE VIN # WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. THAT MAKES NO SENSE, SHOULD INCLUDE ALL 2013 NISSAN REGARDLESS OF VIN#. THE VEHICLE IS REGISTERED UNDER MY WIFE'S NAME. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TT

THE HEADLAMPS ARE EXTREMELY DIM ON MY 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. I HAVE TO DRIVE WITH HIGHBEAMS ON TO DRIVE AT NIGHT. I'VE BEEN STOPPED BY THE POLICE FOR HAVING DIM HEADLIGHTS. I'VE CHANGED THE BULBS AND THEY ARE STILL DIM. I'VE BEEN TOLD THE HEADLIGHT HOUSING IS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACE AT THE COST OF OVER $800. THIS IS A MANUFACTURES DEFECT AND NISSAN IS SILENT ON THIS ISSUE. IT'S KNOWN THAT 2013, 2015, 2016 ALTIMAS HAVE THIS SAME ISSUE. THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE A RECALL. PLEASE HELP, I DRIVE WITH CHILDREN IN THE CAR AND I SHOULD BE ABLE TO SEE AT NIGHT. I DIVE IN THE CITY, AT NIGHT AND IN THE COUNTRY, THE LOW BEAMS ARE LOW AND I'M FORCED TO USE THE HIGH BEAMS WHICH IS NOT SAFE FOR ON COMING TRAFFIC. NISSAN SHOULD ADDRESS THIS ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE HOOD OPENED. THE CONTACT MANAGED TO PULL THE VEHICLE OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD SAFELY, SECURE THE HOOD, AND CONTINUE DRIVING TO HIS DESTINATION. THE MANUFACTURER STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V029000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES). THE MANUFACTURER STATED THAT THE CONTACT COULD TAKE THE VEHICLE TO ANY NISSAN DEALER TO BE REPAIRED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 129,000.

NO ACCIDENT OR ANY WORK, DRIVER SIDE AIRBAG LIGHT REMAINED ON. RESET NOT WORKING. AC COMPRESSOR ALSO GIVES UP. 150K.

MY DRIVER'S SIDE LOWER CONTROL ARM BROKE AND I LOST CONTROL OF MY VEHICLE. IT CORRODED AND BROKE ON ONE SIDE. I WAS DRIVING AT 28/30 MILES AN HOUR, HIT A BUMP AND HEARD SOMETHING POP AND THE CAR SPUN OUT OF CONTROL.

IN MOTION LOST CONTROL. TOOK TO A REPAIR GARAGE. PASSENGER LOWER CONTROL ARM RUSTED. THEY SUGGESTED TO CONTACT DEALERSHIP. TOWED TO DEALERSHIP AND CALLED NISSAN CORPORATE. WAITING FOR AN ANSWER FROM BOTH DEALERSHIP AND CORPORATE. UNSAFE CONDITION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE AND SLIP WARNING INDICATORS REMAINED ILLUMINATED WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED OR WHEN SHIFTING OUT OF DRIVE. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING HIGHWAY SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER, THE TRANSMISSION GEARS FAILED TO CHANGE OVER, AND THE VEHICLE SHUT DOWN. THE VEHICLE WAS COASTED OFF THE ROAD AND PARKED. BALISE NISSAN OF CAPE COD (322 FALMOUTH RD, HYANNIS, MA 02601, (508) 815-4010) WAS CONTACTED AND INDICATED THAT AN UNKNOWN MANUFACTURER CAMPAIGN REGARDING THE REPROGRAMMING OF THE CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE TRANSMISSION (CVT) FAILED. THE DEALER RECOMMENDED THAT THE VEHICLE BE DIAGNOSED TO DETERMINE IF THE CVT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO BE DRIVEN AND THE MANUFACTURER DID NOT VOLUNTEER TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TOWED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 122,000.

DRIVING ON AN UPHILL STREET CAR WOULD NOT GO AND I WOULD HAVE TO PUSH HARD DOWN ON GAS I HAD MY SON IN THE BACK SEAT I THEN PULLED OVER TO SET CAR AT PARK AND TURNED OFF LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT FIVE MINS TURNED CAR BACK ON PUT IT ON REVERSE AND IT WENT FORWARD I SET IT PACK TO PARK GEAR AND THEN BACK TO REVERSE AND IT COMPLIED NOT THE FIRST TIME NOW IT'S JUST MORE COMMON AND THIS TIME IT FREAKED ME OUT IT WASN'T A LITTLE BURP AS THE OTHER TIMES HAD CAR FOR ONLY ABOUT 6 GOING ON 7 MONTHS AND I RESTRICTED L MYSELF FROM DRIVING MY OWN CAR THAT I JUST PURCHASED TO THEN BEING TOLD TRANSMISSION FAILING AND 8 RECALLS

LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS ARE TOO DIM FOR DRIVING. CANNOT SEE STREETS, LANES, OR HAZARDS

MY NISSAN ALTIMA 2013 2.5S HAS STARTED HAVING THIS ISSUE - OFTEN THE GEAR STICK WILL GET STUCK IN PARK MODE AND WON'T COME OUT. THIS HAPPENS ESPECIALLY WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED. SCREW DRIVER OR A SHARP ITEM NEEDS TO BE USED TO RELEASE THE SHIFT LOCK. THIS IS PAINFUL AND IT CAN OCCUR ANYTIME. I TOOK TO DEALER. DEALER SAID IT COULD COST MORE THAN 500$ TO FIX THE SHIFT LOCK. WHEN SEARCHING IN THE INTERNET, MANY NISSAN ALTIMA CARS HAVE THIS ISSUE. BELOW WEB PAGE SHOWS ALL NISSAN ALTIMA OWNERS HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. HTTPS://WWW.CARCOMPLAINTS.COM/NISSAN/ALTIMA/2013/TRANSMISSION/GEAR_SHIFT_STUCK_IN_PARK.SHTML CONSIDERING THIS AS AN ISSUE FOR MANY CARS, NISSAN SHOULD ISSUE A RECALL ON THIS. I HOPE FILING HERE WILL HELP ALL NISSAN ALTIMA OWNERS TO GET A RELIEF ON THIS ISSUE. PLEASE HELP. THANKS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE OUT OF PARK OCCASIONALLY. THE CONTACT HAD TO USE A SMALL PIN TO UNLOCK THE TRANSMISSION AND DRIVE THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE OF THE FAILURE AND TRANSFERRED THE CONTACT TO THE NHTSA HOTLINE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 79,000.

PASSENGER REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM UNIT FAILED NEAR FRAME CONNECTION POINT WHILE TRAVELLING THROUGH RIGHT HAND TURN AT LOW SPEED. OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS FOR THIS VEHICLE MODEL SUGGEST WINTER ROAD SALT MAY BE ATTRIBUTED TO PART CORROSION AND PREMATURE FAILURE. CAR DRIVEN IN UPSTATE NY WITH 120,000 MILES

I'VE OWNED THE CAR FOR LESS THAN 2 YEARS - IT'S A 6 YEAR OLD CAR WITH A SINGLE PREVIOUS OWNER, ALWAYS LIVED IN A GARAGE, WELL MAINTAINED, ETC. I WAS DRIVING HOME ON THE HIGHWAY ONE MORNING AND SUDDENLY MY STEERING WHEEL YANKED OUT OF MY HANDS, SWERVED TO THE RIGHT, AND LOCKED UP. I COULD BARELY KEEP THE CAR IN THE LANE AND HAD TO DRIVE LIKE A VIDEO GAME, CONSTANTLY SHAKING THE STEERING WHEEL BACK AND FORTH. I TRIED TO MAKE IT ONE MORE EXIT, BUT COULDN'T SAFELY SO I PULLED OVER. ONLY HAD TO TEST DRIVE IT ~20 FEET BEFORE WE REALIZED THE DRIVERS REAR WHEEL NEARLY FELL OFF. WE LAID ON THE GROUND AND LOOKED UNDERNEATH THE CAR AND SAW THE CONTROL ARM HAD SNAPPED AND BROKEN OFF DUE TO RUST. SURE ENOUGH IN THE SHOP, MY MECHANIC FOUND THAT BOTH SIDES HAD COMPLETELY RUSTED AND BOTH HAD TO BE REPLACED TO SAFELY DRIVE THE CAR. THIS PROBLEM IS DUE TO A FAULTY DESIGN OF THE CONTROL ARM THAT ALLOWS WATER TO POOL ON TOP AND NOT DRAIN - THE WATER SITS ON THE CONTROL ARM IN A DIVET AND THE METAL RUSTS AWAY. FORTUNATELY, MY MECHANIC CLEVERLY FIXED THE PROBLEM ON THE REPLACEMENT CONTROL ARMS BY WELDING A PLATE ON TOP TO PREVENT WATER COLLECTION AND FUTURE RUST.

THE PROBLEM STARTED A FEW MONTHS AGO WITH AN OCCASIONAL SHUDDERING OF THE CAR AND SURGING OF RPMS. THIS TYPICALLY HAPPENED WHEN I ACCELERATED OVER 60 MPH, BUT ALSO HAPPENED SEEMINGLY RANDOMLY WHEN MAINTAINING SPEED. OVER THE LAST 3 WEEKS, THE SHUDDERING BECAME MORE VIOLENT, MORE FREQUENT, AND LESS RELATED TO ACCELERATING, JUST HAPPENING GENERALLY WHEN DRIVING 45+ MPH. ONE WEEK AGO, I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM A WORK TRIP AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, THE CAR BECAME EXTREMELY LOUD WHEN DRIVING, AND I WAS HAVING TROUBLE ACCELERATING (5/30/2019). THE CODE WAS P0841, TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SENSOR/SWITCH. AFTER READING ABOUT THE CODE ONLINE, I WAS HOPEFUL THAT THE REPAIR WOULD BE MINIMAL, MAYBE JUST DRAINING AND REFILLING TRANNY FLUID OR REPLACING THE SENSOR/SWITCH ON THE TRANSMISSION. HOWEVER, WITHIN 2 DAYS I REALIZED THE CAR WAS UNDRIVABLE AND IMMEDIATELY TOOK IT TO THE TRANSMISSION SHOP. THE OWNER LOOKED UP ALTIMA RECALLS AND LAWSUITS, THOUGHT MY CAR WAS COVERED BY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY (UNFORTUNATELY, MY NEWER 2013 MODEL WAS NOT), AND DID NOT TOUCH IT. ON MY DRIVE TO THE NISSAN DEALER, I COULD BARELY ACCELERATE, COULD NOT KEEP SPEED, THE ENTIRE CAR WAS SHAKING VIOLENTLY, AND THE NOISE WAS EXTREMELY LOUD ' WHICH WAS VERY DANGEROUS TO MYSELF AND OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROAD. GIVEN THE DIAGNOSIS OF NEAR COMPLETE FAILURE, I AM FORTUNATE IT DID NOT FAIL WHILE DRIVING. I BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER FOR AN OFFICIAL DIAGNOSIS, IN ORDER TO HAVE IT IN NISSAN'S SYSTEM AS BACKUP FOR A FO

ON JUNE 2ND 2019 I WAS TURNING FROM A LOCAL STREET TO RT 303 WHEN HEARD A POP NOISE. IT CAUSED MY WHEEL TO JERK QUICKLY TO THE RIGHT AND MY DASH BOARD LIGHT TURNED ON. WHEN I PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE TO LOOK AND SEE WHAT IT WAS I SAW THAT THE BODY OF MY VEHICLE WAS RESTING PRACTICALLY ON THE TIRE. I WENT INTO A PARKING LOT ABOUT 400M WHICH WAS IN FRONT OF AN AUTO BODY. I LEFT IT IN THE PARKING LOT OVER NIGHT AND THE NEXT DAY I TOOK IT ACROSS THE STREET WHERE THERE IS AN AUTO BODY. WHEN THEY LIFTED UP MY CAR THEY SAW THAT THE REAR LEFT PART HOLDING UP MY SHOCKS HAD RUSTED AND ERODED AND SNAPPED AND THAT MY REAR RIGHT SIDE WAS RUSTED AND CRACKED.

FRONT HEADLIGHTS ARE DIM AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO SEE THE ROAD AHEAD. WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT THE HEADLIGHTS DO NOT LOOK LIKE THEY ARE ON. IF RAINING YOU ARE UNABLE TO SEE ANYTHING WITHIN 1-2 FEET IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE AT NIGHT ON THE HIGHWAY OR ON THE CITY STREETS. NISSAN SAID IT WAS THE BULBS SO THEY REPLACED THEM AND THERE IS NO CHANGE IN BEING ABLE TO SEE WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT. THE VEHICLE ONLY HAS 40,500 MILES WHEN IT WENT IN FOR THE DIAGNOSTIC TEST.

TRANSMISSION ISSUE

MY DAUGHTER DRIVES THIS VEHICLE, SHE HAD BEEN COMPLAINING ABOUT THE HEADLIGHTS FOR MORE THAN A YEAR. I REPLACED THE BULBS IN JULY OF 18, BUT HAD NOT DRIVEN IT AT NIGHT. I DROVE IT THIS PAST WEEKEND, AND WAS ABSOLUTELY SHOCKED AND HORRIFIED. EXTREMELY POOR LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTING. LITERALLY CAN NOT SEE 100 FT IN FRONT OF VEHICLE AT NIGHT. CAN NOT DRIVER AT SAFE SPEEDS DUE TO POOR LIGHTING. WE HAVE TO USE BRIGHT LIGHTS WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT TO SEE THE ROAD. HAVE REPLACED BULBS 2X, SAME RESULTS EACH TIME. VERY DANGEROUS. RECALL NEEDED

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED AND ROTTED OFF THE FRAME MOUNTING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO SMITHTOWN NISSAN (535 MIDDLE COUNTRY RD, ST JAMES, NY 11780, (631) 361-9696). THE DEALER STATED THAT THEY HAD NOT SEEN THIS TYPE OF FAILURE IN THE PAST. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DENIED THE CONTACT'S REQUEST FOR ASSISTANCE WITH THE REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER REFERRED THE REQUEST TO A REGIONAL MANAGER WHO WAS SUPPOSED TO CALL THE CONTACT BACK. THE VEHICLE WAS CURRENTLY AT THE DEALER AWAITING A DECISION FROM THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 101,000. *BF CONSUMER RECIEVED A CALL FROM THE DEALER AND WAS TOLD WARRANTY WAS ONLY FOR 3 YEARS AT 36,000 MILES, VEHICLE WAS WAY BEYOND WARRANTY. CONSUMER ALSO STATED ORIGINAL PART IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE ONLINE. WHILE TURNING INTO A PARKING SPACE COMPLETE FAILURE HAPPENED.*JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 15 MPH, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL SOUND COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE CONTROL ARM FRACTURED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. ADDITIONALLY, THERE WAS SEVERE CORROSION TO THE CONTROL ARM AND THE SECONDARY HOOD LATCH ON THE VEHICLE WAS FAULTY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V029000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

I RECENTLY HAD TO REPLACE THE REAR CONTROL ARMS AS THEY SNAPPED WITH NO WARNING AS WE WERE BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE. IRONICALLY ONLY DAYS AFTER MY ANNUAL INSPECTION. I WAS TOLD BY MY MECHANIC WHO HAD TO ORDER THE REPLACEMENT PARTS FROM NISSAN, THAT HIS CONTACT AT NISSAN KNEW ABOUT THIS PROBLEM AND ADMITTED IT WAS ONLY A "SOFT RECALL" WITH NO PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT, SO THERE IS NO COURSE OF ACTION DUE ON BEHALF OF NISSAN TO FIX THIS. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE, ESPECIALLY SINCE I HAD 2 SMALL CHILDREN IN THE CAR WHEN THIS HAPPENED AND WE WERE OUT OF TOWN. THIS UNEXPECTED REPLACEMENT COST ME OVER $900 TO FIX SOMETHING THAT I SHOULD NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR SINCE NISSAN KNEW OF THIS ISSUE. PLEASE HELP TO RECOUP THIS COST!

THE GEAR SHIFTER STUCK IN PARK THIS IS MY 2ND SHIFTER WITHIN 2 YEARS, BEEN REPLACED BEFORE NOW IT MESSING UP AGAIN. I NEED HELP WITH THIS.

THE ENGINE OF MY CAR DIE WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY ON MY WAY BACK HOME. THE CAR WOULD DIE AND JERK WHEN I WOULD SLOW DOWN TO A STOP LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, AND JERK WHEN FIRST ACCELERATING.

THE LIGHTS ARE VERY DIM AT NIGHT. I LOOKED IT UP ON THE INTERNET AND IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 2013 ALTIMA. YOU CAN BARELY SEE THE LANE MARKERS AT NIGHT. MANY PEOPLE HAVE THIS COMPLAINT. THE DEALER SEEMS TO KNOW IT IS AN ISSUE AND IT REQUIRES A $700-$1100 COMPLETE REPLACEMENT.

5 DAYS AGO WHILE DRIVING ON A FREEWAY DURING RUSH HOUR MY CAR STARTED STUTTERING WHILE DRIVING. WHEN I PRESSED ON THE ACCELERATOR AFTER COMING TO A STOP, THE CAR JERKED AND STALLED WHILE IN TRAFFIC. WHEN 5 MILES FROM HOME I WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT THE CAR ENGINE DIED. AFTER RESTARTING MY CAR WHEN I PUT MY CAR INTO GEAR THE ENGINE WOULD DIE. WHILE IN THE LEFT LANE I SAT THERE TRYING TO GET MY CAR TO GO INTO GEAR WITHOUT THE ENGINE DYING. TWO GUYS HELPED TO MOVE IT OFF OF THE ROAD AND I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED HOME. IT'S NOW AT THE DEALERSHIP'S SERVICE CENTER.

REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS BROKE WHILE TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY DUE TO SIGNIFICANT CORROSION.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND MY CAR JUST STARTED TO LOSE POWER, IN A SPEED ZONE OF 60MPH MY CAR WAS QUICKLY DROPPING SPEED/POWER. NO CHECK ENGINE LIKE CAME ON, NOR HAD ANY SIGNS OF MY CAR NEEDING SERVICE CAME UP, NOTHING. WHEN I WOULD TRY SPEEDING UP IT STARTED TO MAKE A RATTLING NOISE, STILL LESS POWER. I PULLED OVER ON THE SIDE OF THE FREEWAY BECAUSE THERE WERE CARS COMING VERY FAST AND ONCE I PRESSED ON MY BRAKE TO MAKE THE STOP, MY CAR STALLED. IT WOULDN'T TURN ON ANYMORE AND I HAD TO LEAVE MY CAR THERE. THIS WAS SERIOUSLY SUCH A SAFETY ISSUE, THIS HAPPENED AT NIGHT TIME WHEN I WAS TRAVELING. I'VE READ VERY SIMILAR ISSUES WITH THE YEAR AND MODEL OF MY CAR ONLINE ABOUT IT BEING A PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION. I DON'T KNOW WHY THERE ISN'T A RECALL IF IT'S SUCH A DANGEROUS ISSUE. MY CAR HAS JUST BEEN PARKED FOR 6 WEEKS BECAUSE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON AND IT'S DRIVING 'NORMAL', BUT I'M NOT TAKING THAT RISK AGAIN OF DRIVING IT.