2012 Nissan Altima complaints

ENIGINE/TRANSMISSION ISSUES ON OUR WAY OUT OF TOWN, NOT 45 MINUTES INTO OUR TRIP AND WITHOUT WARNING THE CAR GOES FROM 65 MILES TO LESS. THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE. WITH A TWO LANE HIGHWAY AND TRUCKS BEHIND US. I AM VERY CONCERNED OF GETTING STRANDED IN THE DESERT, KILLED OR SEVERELY INJURED. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TIME. IT'S OCCURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. OUR DEALER PEORIA NISSAN IN AZ SAID, THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG EVEN AFTER WE INSISTED. SOMETHING'S WRONG, I SWEAR IT'S A FAULTY TRANSMISSION ISSUE.

TRANSMISSION STOPPED WORKING. CAR STOPPED MOVING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE TASTA NISSAN WHERE IT WAS INFORMED THAT THE BASE OF THE SEAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED DUE TO A FAILURE OF THE PASSENGER AIR BAG SENSOR. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED CASE NUMBER: 27162570 AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT AT THE TIME THE MANUFACTURER USED A DIFFERENT AIR BAG THAN THE AIR BAGS ON RECALL. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 95,000.

AFTER I HAVE BEEN DRIVING MY CAR FOR 45 MIN ON THE FREEWAY GOING AROUND 70-85 MPH THE CAR LOSES POWER AND ALMOST FEELS LIKE IT IS GOING TO STALL. ONCE I WAS OFF THE FREEWAY AT THE INTERSECTION WHEN I ACCELERATED MY CAR WOULD BARELY MOVE. THIS SEEMS LIKE A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. I HAVE HEARD OF OTHERS ALMOST BEING REAR ENDED BECAUSE OF THIS SAME ISSUE. THEY SAY ITS DUE TO THE TRANSMISSION OVERHEATING AND GOING INTO SAFE MODE IN HOT TEMPERATURES. MY VEHICLE WAS DOING THIS WHEN IT WAS 65 DEGREES OUTSIDE. I THINK SINCE THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AND WITH THE SAFETY BEING A CONCERN NISSAN SHOULD DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT.

1ST INCIDENT: DRIVING ON HWY 5 IN CA ON A HOT DAY AT FREEWAY SPEED CAR SUDDENLY LOST POWER AND DROPPED BELOW 30 MPH. PULLED OFF OF HWY AND SHUT VEHICLE OFF FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND NO LONGER EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE. 2ND INCIDENT: DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 80 IN CA IN 95-100 DEGREE WEATHER. GOT OFF FREEWAY AND CAR LOST POWER AGAIN THIS TIME NOT GOING OVER 5 MPH. TOOK VEHICLE TO NISSAN DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTICS. THEY SAID THEY COULD NOT REPLICATE PROBLEM WHEN DRIVING BUT "MILEAGE IN" WAS THE SAME AS "MILEAGE OUT" WHICH TELLS ME THEY DIDN'T DRIVE VERY FAR IF AT ALL. THEY PUT IT ON DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE AND GOT A CODE SAYING "CVT A AT 4" AND "CVT B AT 7" CVT HAS BEEN OVERHEATED. RECOMMEND REPLACE VALVE BODY AND INSTALL EXTERNAL COOLER FOR CONCERN. I'VE READ MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT SAME ISSUE WITH NISSAN CVT TRANSMISSION.

IN WARM WEATHER, CAR CONSISTENTLY GOES INTO LIMP MODE. IT WILL ONLY ACHIEVE SPEEDS OF AROUND 30MPH EVEN THOUGH RPMS ARE ACCELERATING. I HAVE TO STOP THE CAR AND WAIT FOR 20 MINUTES IN ORDER TO DRIVE IT AGAIN. DOESN'T SEEM TO HAPPEN WHEN OUTDOOR TEMPERATURES ARE COOLER. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR SEVERAL MONTHS AND IS APPARENTLY A WELL-DOCUMENTED ISSUE WITH OTHER NISSAN ALTIMA OWNERS.

I HAVE 78K MILES AND MY CAR IS LOOSING POWER WHEN I AM DRIVING. LOOSES POWER AFTER SITTING AT A LIGHT, WHILE DRIVING THE CAR BUCKS AS IF ITS GETTING STUCK IN IT'S GEARS AND WHEN I GET UP TO A CERTAIN SPEED THE CAR MAKES A SQUEALING NOISE.

MY VEHICLE IS 5 YEARS OLD AND I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE RADIATOR AND NOW THE TRANSMISSION. THERE ARE OVER 700 COMPLAINTS OF THIS SAME ISSUE WITH THE NHTSA AND CONSUMER AFFAIRS. I HAVE TAKEN MY VEHICLE INTO THE DEALER TWICE FOR THIS ISSUE AND THIS ONGOING ISSUE IS GOING TO HURT OR EVEN KILL SOMEONE. NISSAN IS FULLY AWARE OF THE CVT ISSUES AND THIS NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED. THIS RECENTLY HAPPENED THIS PAST WEEKEND (2ND TIME NOW). WE TRAVELED MAYBE 35 MILES, WHEN THE TRANSMISSION STARTED TO WHINE JUST BEFORE WE REACHED THE EXIT, I WAS UNABLE TO ACCELERATE. NO LIGHTS, NO WARNINGS, NOTHING STATING THERE WAS AN ISSUE. MY CAR HAD TO BE TOWED TO A LOCAL AUTO SHOP, WHERE THEY STATED THEY COULD NOT ADDRESS THE PROBLEM AS IT IS MOST LIKELY THE TRANSMISSION. IT WAS THEN, AGAIN TOWED TO THE DEALER. KEN GARFF NISSAN. WHERE I WAS TOLD THAT MY 5 YEAR OLD CAR NEEDS A NEW TRANSMISSION! A YEAR TO DATE I HAD TO REPLACE MY RADIATOR, WATER PUMP, SERPENTINE BELT ECT! THIS IS NOT OKAY AND NOT ACCEPTABLE. SHOULD I HAVE HAD MY DAUGHTER IN THE CAR AND LOST ACCELERATION ON THE FREEWAY, I CANT EVENT FATHOM. THIS ISSUE TRANSMISSION DEFECT HAS SUBSTANTIALLY IMPAIRED THE USE, MARKET VALUE AND MOST OF ALL THE SAFETY OF THE VEHICLE. MY FAMILY IS WORTH MORE THAN THIS DEFECTIVE VEHICLE. THE DEALERSHIP HAS BEEN MORE THAN HELPFUL AND THEY AGREED A 5 YEAR OLD CAR SHOULD NOT BE HAVING ALL THESE ISSUES. I AM ASKING THAT NISSAN DO THE RIGHT THING AND FIX THIS PROBLEM AND CARE ABOUT THE CONSUMER. I TRULY WANT TO BELIEVE T

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE STATIONARY, THE OIL COOLERS IN THE VEHICLE FRACTURED AND LEAKED ONTO THE GROUND. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED OR DIAGNOSED. AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED AN ESTIMATE FOR THE REPAIR WORK. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 141,895.

THE DASHBOARD IS COMPLETELY MELTING AND IT IS GETTING STICKY AND DANGEROUS TO DRIVE. IT PRODUCES A GLARE AND IT OBSTRUCTS THE VIEW. THE GLARE IS STOPPING ME FROM SEEING THE CARS AND OBJECTS IN FRONT OF ME. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.

POOO18 CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT SENSOR ENGINE DIES LOSS OF BRAKES AND STEERING THANK GOD COMING UP TO HOUSE SLOWING TO PARK, CITY STREET. RESTART ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE RUNNING ON 3 CYLINDERS. TURNED OFF START AGAIN, PULL CODE AND ERASE. IT RUNS LIKE NOTHING EVER HAPPENED. CALLED NISSAN AND THEY TOLD ME THAT SINCE I ERASED THE CODE THEY CAN DO NOTHING. GOOGLE 2012 ALTIMA ENGINE STALL AND PREPARE TO SPEND THE REST OF YOUR AFTERNOON READING STORIES

AT 1500-1800 RPMS THERE IS A VIBRATION COMING FROM THE FRONT END OF MY CAR. I TOOK THE CAR TO MY MECHANIC WHO INFORMED ME THAT MY CALL WAS UNDER RECALL FOR A THROTTLE BODY ISSUE AND I SHOULD TAKE IT TO NISSAN. NISSAN CLAIMED THAT THEY COULD ONLY REPAIR MY VEHICLE IF THE VIN# IS IN THE SYSTEM, WHICH IT WASN'T. HOWEVER, I AM EXPERIENCING THE SAME THROTTLE BODY ISSUES AS ALL OTHER NISSAN ALTIMA'S MADE DURING THE SAME TIMEFRAME.

WHINING UP HILL AND NO DRIVE DOWN HILL, WHEN HEATED UP TRANSMISSION WILL NOT GO UNTIL COOLED OFF

THE TRANSMISSION WENT OUT AFTER 65K MILES. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND BECAUSE THE WARRANTY IS ONLY UP TO 60K THEY WOULD NOT HELP ME OR WARRANT ANY REPAIRS. BECAUSE OF DEALER COST I WAS ABLE TO REBUILD IT AT A DIFFERENT REPAIR SHOP FOR $4000.00. THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT THIS WAS CAUSED BY A LEAK IN THE RADIATOR, THE COOLANT LEAKED INTO THE TRANSMISSION FLUID CAUSING DAMGE TO THE TRANSMISSION. IT SEEMS THAT NISSAN HAD A RECALL ON MODELS UP TO TO 2010 AND ALSO GAVE EXTENDED WARRANTIES. HOWEVER THE 2012 IS NOT ON THIS REACALL. I FEEL THAT THE PROBLEM STILL EXIST AND A RECALL FOR MY MODEL SHOULD TAKE PLACE. MY COST WAS 4000 DOLLARS, IT JUST DOESNT SEEM FAIR. NO TRANSMISSION SHULD GO OUT BEFORE 100K. THIS IS MY DAUGHTERS VEHICLE AND IT QUIT FUNCTIONING IN TRAFFIC IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD WHERE SHE COULD HAVE BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT. THIS IS A HUGE PROBLEM THAT THE DEALERSHIP SHOULD OWN UP TO.

WHEN THE CAR IS AT 75MPH, IT LOSES SPEEN AND THE RPM GOES UP AND IT SLOWS DOWN WHEN YOU STOP THE CAR AND WAIT FOR AN HOUR OR MORE, IT WILL GO BACK TO NORMAL FOR A WHILE IT HAPPENS AFTER AND HOUR OR LONG TRIPS.

DRIVING DOWN FL. I75 DID NOT HAVE POWER TO PASS ANOTHER VEHICLE. PUSH THE GAS PEDAL SEVERAL TINES NO POWER. NO WARNING LIGHTS ON DASH. AFTER SEVER MILES SAFELY GOT OFF I75. FOUND OUT CVT OVER HEATED AND SHUT ENGINE DOWN. NISSAN WAITING FOR SOME ONE TO GET KILLED. IS THAT WHAT NISSAN IS WAITING FOR? THERE IS A FIX FOR OVER HEATING CVTS. IS NHTSA GOING TO SIT ON THERE BUTT OR DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. THIS IS AN ON GOING THING WITH NISSAN.

VEHICLE LOST POWER WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH DOWN HIGHWAY. ALMOST GOT REAR ENDED BY SEMI AS I COULD NOT KEEP ENOUGH SPEED TO STAY AHEAD AND GET TO SIDE OF ROAD. WHEN I SEARCHED WEB, FOUND THIS TO BE A FREQUENT OCCURRENCE ON THE 2012 CVT TRANSMISSION.

JUST PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE USED AND NOTICED ON THE TEST DRIVE THE PASSENGER SEAT AIRBAG LIGHT WAS LIT UP INDICATING IT WAS OFF, EVEN THOUGH SOMEONE WAS IN THE SEAT. BROUGHT IT TO THEIR ATTENTION, 5 MINUTES LATER THEY BROUGHT IT BACK CLAIMING IT NEEDED RESET DUE TO A SENSOR HAVING SOMETHING TO DO WITH A CARSEAT. THE LIGHT WASN'T ON WITH A PASSENGER SO I ASSUMED IT WAS FINE. NOW THE LIGHT BRIEFLY ILLUMINATES AT START UP, BUT STAYS OFF REGARDLESS OF WHETHER OR NOT SOMEONE IS IN THE SEAT. I HAVE SEEN ABOUT 20 OTHER COMPLAINTS ON THIS ISSUE AND IT IS VERY UNSAFE, I NOW HAVE ZERO FAITH THAT THE AIRBAG WILL EVEN DEPLOY. NEEDS TO BE RECALLED!!

I WAS DRIVING MY CAR DOWN THE ROAD HEADING TO GET SOMETHING TO EAT. IT WAS A SUNDAY NIGHT, IT JUST STARTED MISTING RAIN. I DROVE ON MY USUAL CURVY 2 LANE PAVED HIGHWAY AND THEN PROCEED ONTO MY USUAL 4 LANE PAVED HIGHWAY TO MCDONALD'S WHERE I GOT FOOD INSIDE AND THEN UPON LEAVING DECIDED TO GO THROUGH DRIVE THROUGH FOR ANOTHER ITEM. I LEFT AND HEADED APPROXIMATELY 3 MILES BACK ON THE SAME ROAD I TRAVELED TO TOWN ON. AS I WAS ON THE 2 LANE ITHE ALL OF A SUDDEN APPEARED TO BE RAINING HEAVIER AND I COULD TELL BY THE RAIN CROSSING OVER MY HEADLIGHTS. SOMETHING DIFFERENT THAN NORMAL CAUGHT MY EYE, IT LOOKED LIKE ORANGE RAIN, I ASSUMED JUST THE APPEARANCE FROM ONE OF THE BULBS. UNSURE THOUGH, I CONTINUED DRIVING BUT SCOOTED TO THE EDGE OF MY SEAT AND SET UP TALL TO GETTA BETTER LOOK, AT THAT TIME I SEEN FLAMES. THE CAR WAS ON FIRE, I COULDN'T PULL OFF SIDE OF ROAD AS IT HAS NO DITCHES JUST RAVINES SO I SLOWED DOWN AND TRIED UNLOCKING MY DOOR TO OPEN IT WOULDN'T AND MY WINDOW WOULDN'T ROLL DOWN, TERRIFIED I PROCEEDED TO CALL 911 AND INFORM THEM MY CAR WAS ON FIRE AND I WAS IN IT DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WAS HOPING TO GET TO NEXT ROAD I KNEW I COULD PULL OFF. THE ENTIRE TIME NEVER DID ANYTHING WARNING LIGHTS OR GAUGES COME ON NOR DID THE TEMPERATURE RISE. I FINALLY WAS ABLE TO EXIST THE CAR FULLY ENGULFED IN FLAMES. THE POLICE DEPARTMENT AND FIRE DEPARTMENT FINALLY ARRIVED. THEYOU GOT IT PUT OUT BUT IT WAS COMPLETE LOSS. I HAVE NO IDEA AS TO WHY THIS FIRE HAPPENED I TOOK WELL CARE OF

I JUST RECENTLY REPLACED THE BATTERY IN MY 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA AND NOW I AM HAVING THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS: GAUGE CLUSTER IS NOT WORKING AT ALL (ENGINE TEMP, RPM, SPEEDOMETER, GAS). EVERYTHING ELSE IS WORKING FINE. I HAD ALL THE FUSES CHECKED AND ALL ARE WORKING PROPERLY. I TOOK TO DEALER, THEY ARE SAYING REPLACE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, PROGRAM AND RETEST FOR BCM FAILURE(2 CONCERNS-INST CLUSTER NO COMM, POWER AND GROUND PRESENT, U1000 AND CAN SYSTEM DIAG FAILED CLUSTER CAN NOT GET MILEAGE) RETEST FOR BCM FAILURE AFTER INSTALL CLUSTER IS REPLACED (2ND CONCERN IS CAR IS HARD TO TURN ON AND OFF NEED TO REPLACE CLUSTER AND RETEST FOR POSSIBLE BCM FAILURE. MY CAR WAS FINE 1 WEEK AGO AND PASSED THE STATE SAFETY INSPECTION ON 03/25/2017 AT A CERTIFIED INSPECTION PLACE. I HAVE PROOF OF ALL THOSE COPIES IT IS TRULY MANUFACTURE ( NISSAN ) PROBLEM WITH KIND OF VEHICLE MANUFACTURING PRACTICE. I WOULD NEVER BUY ANOTHER NISSAN IN MY LIFE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE STATIONARY, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START WHEN PROMPTED BY THE KEY FOB. IN ADDITION, WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STOP WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO PLACE THE VEHICLE IN PARK TO STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 113,090.

DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS CAR ENGINE SUDDENLY REVVED TO APPROX. 5000 RPM. PULLED OVER AND UPON ACCELERATING AGAIN THE CAR WOULD DRIVE BUT THE ENGINE REVVED VERY HIGH AND THE CVT WOULDN'T CHANGE GEAR RATIOS ("SHIFT") AS IT NORMALLY DOES. REALIZED CAR WOULD ACCELERATE AND NOT REV AS HIGH IF I ACCELERATED EXTREMELY SLOWLY. CAR HOWEVER IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE AT THIS POINT. ALSO COULDN'T DRIVE ABOVE 55 MPH WITHOUT THE ENGINE REVVING VERY HIGH APPROACHING REDLINE. AFTER APPROX 5 MORE MILES OF DRIVING THE "SERVICE ENGINE" LIGHT CAME ON AND I SCANNED THE CODE. SHOWING CODE P1778 WHICH APPEARS TO BE A STEPPER MOTOR PROBLEM WITH THE CVT. CALLED DEALER AND SOUNDS LIKE THEY DON'T FIX CVT, JUST REPLACE FOR BETWEEN $4000-$5000. VERY DISAPPOINTED NISSAN HASN'T RESOLVED THESE PROBLEMS YET AND THAT THEY TREAT A $5000 PART AS A REPLACEMENT ITEM AND NOT ONE THAT CAN BE FIXED.

DRIVING VEHICLE AT TIME OF TRANSMISSION FAILURE. HAVE A 2012 NISSAN 2.5L ALTIMA WITH RECENT EXTENDED WARRANTY THAT JUST EXPIRED. (OF COURSE). I HAVE BEEN DEALING WITH THE CAR AND ITS HESITATION AND CHUGGING ISSUES SINCE OCTOBER 2015. I BROUGHT CAR INTO THE DEALERSHIP AND ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS CONCERNED ABOUT THE PERFORMANCE OF THE VEHICLE. FIRST TIME IN SHOP I WAS TOLD THAT THE SCOPE SHOWED NO WARNING CODES AND RECOMMENDATION WAS TO COMPLETE THE 100,000 MILE MAINTENANCE OF FLUSHING TRANSMISSION AND SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT, WHICH WAS DONE AND CAR SEEMS TO RUIN OK... FOR A FEW DAYS. THEN SAME ISSUES. WE TOOK A TRIP TO COLORADO FROM MINNESOTA AND THE PROBLEM WITH HESITATION AND CHUGGING WITH AUTOMATIC GEAR SHIFTING. I TOOK THE CAR BACK IN AND AGAIN IN DECEMBER WITH TECHNICIAN NOW DRIVING THE CAR WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS SHOWING UP. CAR CONTINUED TO GET WORSE WITH NOW NO ACCELERATION, SO I TOOK IT IN A WEEK AGO WHEN THE CAR WAS SHOWING ALOT MORE SIGNS OF SOMETHING WRONG, AND TECHNICIAN DROVE WITH ME IN THE CAR AND STATED TO SERVICE MANAGER THAT HE DIDN'T EXPERIENCE ANYTHING THAT INDICATED AN ISSUE. THE NEXT DAY, OF COURSE ON A SATURDAY, THE CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER 5 MILES AN HOUR AND CREATED ALMOST A MASSIVE ACCIDENT ON LOCAL CITY STREET. I IMMEDIATELY TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALERSHIP AND WAS FINALLY GIVEN THE NEWS (WHICH I KNEW ALL THE TIME) THAT CODES WHERE INDICATING A TRANSMISSION FAILURE AND UNFORTUNATELY WAS IN NEED OF A NEW TRANSMISSION! COST $3,900 AND SOME CHANGE!!! THAT'S WH

SINCE NEW, BATTERY GOES DEAD IF NOT DRIVEN FOR A FEW DAYS. AFTER A WEEK VACATION, BATTERY DEAD. PARKED IN GARAGE FOR A WEEK, BATTERY DEAD. PAID DEALER $120 FOR COMPLETE CHECK UP - FOUND NOTHING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATOR REMAINED ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE SEAT CUSHION SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,000.

MY ISSUE CONCERNS THE EXTREMELY BRIGHT HEADLIGHTS (ESPECIALLY AFTERMARKET HALOGEN) THAT ARE ALLOWED TO BE INSTALLED ON CARS AND WORSE ON SUV'S AND PICK-UP TRUCKS. THESE LIGHTS ARE BLINDING IN NORMAL HIGHWAY NIGHT TRAVEL, ESPECIALLY WHEN OPPOSING DRIVERS USE THEM AT THE HIGH BEAM LEVEL. IT IS WORSE WHEN A CAR DRIVER IS OPPOSED BY A SUV OR A PICK-UP TRUCK WHOSE LIGHTS ARE MOUNTED ABOUT ONE FOOT HIGHER THAN THE ONES MOUNTED ON A TYPICAL CAR. MY WIFE'S ACCIDENT WHEN SHE ENTERED THE LEFT TURN LANE OF A HIGHWAY WITH A SINGLE LANE IN EACH DIRECTION WITH A DEDICATED LEFT TURN LANE AT THE INTERSECTION. AS MY WIFE'S CAR SAT IN THE LEFT TURN LANE, IT WAS DIRECTLY OPPOSITE A SUV OR PICK-UP TRUCK WITH EXTREMELY BRIGHT LIGHTS THAT BLINDS YOU FROM SEEING ANYTHING BEYOND THE PLANE OF THE HEADLIGHTS. WHEN THE TRAFFIC SIGNAL TURNED GREEN, THE OPPOSING VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE. MY WIFE EVENTUALLY DECIDED TO EASE SLOWLY OUT. STILL UNABLE TO SEE, SE WAS EVENTUALLY INTO THE INTERSECTION WHERE SHE WAS HIT BY A CAR IN THE THROUGH LANE. THESE HALOGEN LIGHTS ARE NOT NECESSARY FOR MOST DRIVING. THE HEIGHT DIFFERENTIAL OF HEADLIGHTS BETWEEN CARS AND SUV'S IS ABOUT ONE FOOT AND IS DANGEROUS. IT ALSO VERY BAD ON COUNTRY ROADS WITH NO CENTERLINES OR NO EDGE LINES. IF YOU ENCOUNTER A VEHICLE ON THIS TYPE OF A COUNTRY ROAD AND THE ROAD AHEAD CURVES - LOOK OUT - YOU HAVE A GOOD CHANCE OF RUNNING OFF THE ROAD. ANOTHER THING THAT MAKES THIS ISSUE WORSE IS OLDER DRIVERS WHO HAVE HAD CATARACT SURGERY. THIS INCREASE

THE AIRBAG DIDN'T DEPLOY WHEN MY VEHICLE HIT ANOTHER VEHICLE ON FRONT PASSENGER SIDE ON SPEED APPROXIMATELY 45MPH.

THE BACK DOORS OF THESE CARS ARE TAKING IN WATER WHEN IT RAINS OR WHEN YOU GO TO CAR WASH.. AS YOU DRIVE YOU COULD HEAR THE WATER SLOSHING IN THE DOORS. YOU HAVE TO ACTUALLY OPEN THE DOOR AND USE YOUR HANDS BY PICKING THE RUBBER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DOORS TO LET THE WATER OUT. THEN IT GUSHES OUT LIKE AN OPEN FAUCET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED SEVERAL TIMES WITH NO WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO REPLICATE AND DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO EXHIBIT A LOSS OF POWER AND WAS TAKEN FOR FURTHER INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSIS. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TRANSMISSON WENT OUT WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY.

THE AIRBAG LIGHT ON THE DASH CAME ON AND THE AIRBAG LIGHT DOESN'T GO ON OR OFF REGARDLESS OF IF SOMEONE IS IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. IN JUNE 2016, THE DEALERSHIP RECALIBRATED THE SYSTEM AND THE ISSUE WENT AWAY. THREE MONTHS LATER, THE LIGHT IS BACK ON AND THE DEALER SAID THE CODE SAYS ITS A PASSENGER SEAR SENSOR ISSUE THAT REQUIRES THE SEAT TO BE REPLACED FOR $850. NISSAN REFUSED TO COVER THIS ISSUE.

WHEN I WAS DRIVING MY NISSAN ALTIMA 2012 CAR ON I-635 IN DALLAS AT 2 PM CST AT AROUND 65 MPH SPEED, I HEARD HUGE EXPLOSION SOUND ON TOP OF MY HEAD. I TURNED ON THE HAZARD LIGHT AND SLOWED DOWN THE CAR AND PULLED OVER TO A SHOULDER AND CHECKED THE CAR. SUNROOF GLASS WAS EXPLODED AND I HAVE SEEN A 4 INCH DIAMETER HOLE AND SCATTER GLASS PIECES; REST OF THE GLASS WAS ALSO BROKEN/CRACKED. THERE WAS NO VEHICLE AT THE TIME THE INCIDENT OCCURRED AND IT WAS NOT DUE TO THE EXTERNAL FORCES, IT WAS DUE TO INTERNAL PRESSURE BETWEEN THE GLASS AND VISOR. I WAS SO SCARED WHEN THE GLASS EXPLODED BUT LUCKILY ESCAPED FROM THE BODILY INJURIES. THE SUNROOF GLASS ON THE NISSAN ALTIMA 2012 IS FOR SURE DEFECTIVE PRODUCT. PLEASE INVESTIGATE AND SAVE THE LIVES OF THE DRIVERS. I'M NOT EXPECTING ANY FINANCIAL COMPENSATION FROM NISSAN OR ANYBODY. I DON'T WANT THIS TO HAPPEN TO ANYBODY PLEASE INVESTIGATE AND SAVE DRIVERS. *TR

ALL THREE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS ARE FAILING. THE PROBLEM OCCURS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY, WITH THE ENGINE AND ACCESSORIES OFF. WHEN I ACTIVATE THE LOCK WITH THE BUTTON ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE DRIVER'S DOOR, ONE OR MORE DOORS SOMETIMES FAIL TO LOCK OR UNLOCK. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE OFTEN IN COLD WEATHER. THE PROBLEM MAY HAPPEN LESS OFTEN WHEN I USE THE REMOTE FOB TO LOCK/UNLOCK THE DOORS. IF THE CAR THINKS IT IS LOCKED, AND I OPEN AN UNLOCKED PASSENGER DOOR, THE ALARM ACTIVATES. THIS MAKES IT VERY INCONVENIENT FOR ME TO MANUALLY CHECK THAT ALL OF MY DOORS ARE LOCKED. IF MY CAR DOES NOT LOCK, MY PERSONAL EFFECTS ARE AT RISK OF THEFT. AS A SAFETY CONCERN, IF MY CAR IS NOT SECURED, I AM AT GREATER RISK OF BEING CAR-JACKED.

I WAS TRAVELING FROM ALABAMA TO ATLANTA GEORGIA ON INTERSTATE I-20. AS I TRAVEL ABOUT A HOUR AND A HALF INTO THE TRIP THE CAR BEGIN TO DECLINE IN SPEED. I WAS TRAVELING ABOUT 80-85 MPH AND HAD TO MOVE OVER FROM THE LEFT LANE TO GET IN THE RIGHT LANE IN ORDER TO EXIT OFF, IT DECLINE DOWN TO ABOUT 40 MPH. AS I PUSHED ON THE ACCELERATOR, IT DID NOTHING. IT WOULDN'T GO PAST 40MPH. IT CONTINUED SO I PULLED THE CAR OFF ON THE NEXT EXIT. AFTER ABOUT 20 MINUTES OF LETTING THE CAR SET AND I BEGIN TO START THE TRIP BACK THE CAR WAS FINE. SO ON MY WAY BACK TO ALABAMA IT DID IT AGAIN. WHEN I RETURNED BACK FROM THE TRIP THAT SUNDAY I WENT TO MY LOCAL NISSAN DEALER THAT MONDAY MORNING AND WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS THE TRANSMISSION. IT WOULD COST ME $5000 FOR A NEW ONE OR $3500 FOR A USED ONE. AS I LOOK AT THESE COMPLAINTS, THIS IS A NISSAN PROBLEM. WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO COME OUT OF POCKET FOR SOMETHING THAT IS GOING ON WITH MY CAR AND AS I SEE OTHERS. NISSAN NEEDS TO PUT A RECALL ON THIS FOR IT IS A PROBLEM!!!

MY 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA DROVE HOME FINE WHEN I GOT IN THE CAR THE NEXT MORNING THE CAR WOULD NOT START. HAD IT TOWED TO NISSAN AFTER LOOKING ON YOU TUBE WHERE THERE WERE MANY COMPLAINTS AND A WAY TO RIG IT. I GOT THERE AND THEY SAID THE CAR BRAIN WAS FRIED. THE EOC THE COMPUTER. THIS CAR IS 4 YEARS OLD AND IT COST $1380 DOLLARS TO FIX! MY 14 YEAR OLD CAR COMPUTER HOLDS BETTER THAN THAT! WHY IS THIS THING NOT A RECALL?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND THE FAILURE WENT AWAY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 61,000.

I HAVE HAD THE ISSUES OF LOSING POWER WHILE DRIVING MY ALTIMA AT A SPEED OF 60 MPH FOR LONGER THAN AN HOUR I WOULD LOSE ALL POWER . I WOULD BE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY MOVING WITH TRAFFIC AT A SPEED OF 75 -80 MPH AND THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN WITH NO WARNING LIGHTS MY CAR WILL START TO LOSE POWER AND DROP ALL THE WAY TO 40 MPH . NOW I AM TRYING TO GO FROM THE FAST LANE OVER TWO OTHER LANES WHILE LOSING POWER . I AM LUCKY THAT I HAVEN'T BEEN REAR ENDED AT THIS POINT . I HAVE BEEN COMPLAINING ABOUT THIS ISSUE TO NISSAN SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR IN 2012 I HAVE BROUGHT IT INTO NISSAN ON OCT 2013 , MAY 2015 AND JUNE 2016 THAT I HAVE RECEIPTS FOR . IN 2013 AND 2015 I WAS TOLD BY NISSAN THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH MY CAR THEN IN JUNE 2016 I WAS TOLD I NEEDED A NEW TRANSMISSION . I RECEIVED A QUOTE OF $2304.72 AND 10 HOURS OF LABOR IN JUNE 2016 NOW AUG 29 2016 I AM BEING TOLD THAT IT WILL BE OVER $3500 FOR A NEW TRANSMISSION . THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN OUT DATED NOV 25 2015 FOR THIS EXACT ISSUE I AM HAVING MY TRANSMISSION HAS FINALLY GONE AND I THINK IT IS JUST WRONG THAT I HAVE TO PAY FOR SOMETHING THAT NISSAN KNOWS IS BUILT POORLY .THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NISSAN NEEDS TO FIX IT BEFORE SOMEONE DOES GET SERIOUSLY HURT

MY VEHICLE WOULD NOT GO FORWARD WHEN PRESSING ON THE GAS PEDAL. IT WOULD NOT GO PAST 40 MPH ON THE EXPRESSWAY. AFTER 20 MINUTES IN TRAFFIC IS WHEN THE CHECK SERVICE ENGINE CAME ON. I HAD IT DIAGNOSED AT A TRANSMISSION SHOP AND THE CODE REFLECTED THE CVT TRANSMISSION. I HAVE AN APPOINTMENT WITH A NISSAN DEALERSHIP TO CHECK OUT THE DIAGNOSIS...WILL UPDATE DOCUMENTS LATER.

ON JULY 18, 2016, WHILE PARKED AT WORK ON THE SIDE OF A ROAD, THE RIGHT FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW SHATTERED. THE POLICE DETERMINED IT WAS NOT CAUSED BY ANYTHING HITTING IT. THE WINDOW THAT SHATTERED WAS FACING A YARD, NOT THE STREET, SO NO PROJECTILE OBJECT HIT IT. THE POLICE THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE HEAT (IN THE 80'S, BUT IN NY, AND WE HAD IT FOR 18 MONTHS IN NC WHERE IT'S A LOT HOTTER, WITH NO INCIDENT). THEN ON AUGUST 20, 2016 THE CAR WAS PARKED AT A GROCERY STORE PARKING LOT. WHEN MY SON CAME OUT OF THE GROCERY STORE, THERE WAS A 14 INCH CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD THAT WAS NOT THERE WHEN HE WENT INTO THE STORE. NO EVIDENCE OF ANY PROJECTILE HITTING THE GLASS. THE CAR IS 3 YEARS OLD AND 35,000 MILES. TEMP OUTSIDE: 85DEGREES. NO REASON WHY THESE WINDOWS (2 IN 1 MONTH) SHOULD BE SHATTERING SPONTANEOUSLY BY THEMSELVES. NO ROCKS OR OTHER PROJECTILES INVOLVED. BOTH TIMES THE CAR WAS PARKED NEXT TO OTHER CARS, AND NOTHING HAPPENED TO THE OTHER CARS.

8/12/16 I WAS DRIVING FROM SCHAUMBURG IL. TO LA CROSSE WI WITH MY DAUGHTER IN MY CAR AND MY SON FOLLOWING BEHIND. DRIVE IS APPROX 3 HRS & 50 MINS. THE WEATHER OUTSIDE HIGH 80'S & HUMID. AN HOUR INTO MY TRIP ON 90WEST IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC ON THE EXPRESSWAY DUE TO CONSTRUCTION. WENT TO ACCELERATE FROM A COMPLETE STOP THE CAR WOULD ONLY GO TO 20 MPH WITH MY FOOT TO THE FLOOR & IT TOOK SOME TIME. THE RPMS DIDNT MOVE, THE CAR DIDNT REV, THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS, NO LIGHTS DIMMING ON THE INTERIOR & THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE WAS JUST WHERE IT SHOULD BE. I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST A FLUKE. WHEN APPROACHING THE WI DELLS 2 HOURS INTO MY TRIP & AN HOUR & A HALF REMAINING, I WAS IN THE "FAST LANE" OF TRAFFIC DOING ABOUT 80 MPH, I WENT TO ACCELERATE MORE I NOTICED THE SAME THING WAS HAPPENING. ONLY NOW MY SPEED WAS RAPIDLY DECREASING. I MOVED OVER & GOT OFF ON THE NEAREST EXIT STILL ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, I PULLED INTO A GAS STATION. HESITANT ON SHUTTING THE CAR OFF NOT KNOWING WHAT WAS HAPPENING. CALLED MY BROTHER & DESCRIBED THE EVENT I HAD EXPERIENCED. ADVISED TO SHUT IT DOWN THINKING MAYBE THE SYSTEM JUST NEEDED A RESET. WAITED 20 MINS & ADVISED MY SON THAT WE WOULD STAY IN THE "SLOW" LANE. CAR STARTED RIGHT UP & WENT THE HOUR & 30 MINS WITH NO PROBLEM. CAR SAT AT THE HOTEL WE WERE STAYING AT ALL NIGHT. MORNING OF THE 13TH DID SHORT TRIPS, GOT LUNCH & ATTEND A MEETING NEAR CAMPUS. CAR WAS JUST AS IT ALWAYS HAS BEEN. 4 PM CST I GOT ON 90E TO HEAD HOME. THE SAME 3HR 50 MIN 248 MILE TRIP

IM DRIVING DOWN THE FREEWAY TAKING THE CURVE DOWNTOWN DALLAS & MY CAR STALLS O POWER AVAILABLE. I CANNOT STEER TO COAST, NOR PUT CAN ION EMERGENCY FLASHERS. WHERE IT DIES IT SITS. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE AND NISSAN CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHY. I HAVE ONLY HAD CAR FOR 2 MONTHS. VERY DISAPPOINTED AND SCARED.

LEAKING SUNROOF. WHEN WE GET A HEAVY RAIN, WATER LEAKS THROUGH THE SUNROOF ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE TO FL FROM KY AT AROUND 65-75 MPH THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT ACCELORATE PAST 3000 RPM'S. GOING UP HILLS WAS THE WORST, CARS WOULD PASS AND OUR VEHICLE WOULD SLOWLY DECLINE IN SPEED. PULLED OVER TO CHECK THE CAR OUT AND AFTER IF COOLED DOWN IT WHEN BACK TO WORKING OKAY BUT AFTER ANOTHER HOUR ON THE ROAD IT DONE THE SAME THING.

VEHICLE WAS TRAVELING AT 70 MPH WHEN CAR SLOWED DOWN TO 55 MPH WITH NO WARNING. PRESSING ACCELERATOR WOULD NOT MAKE CARE GO ANY FASTER. PULLED OVER AND WAITED 10 MINUTES THEN CONTINUED DRIVE.

WHILE TRAVELING AT ANY RATE OF SPEED ON FREEWAY OR CITY STREET THE LIGHT FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG GOES OFF AND ON WHETHER SOMEONE IS SITTING IN THE SEAT OR NOT.

CAR LOSES POWER AFTER DRIVING FOR SO LONG AND DECREASES IN SPEED. IT'S HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. I PULL OVER TO GIVE CAR A REST BUT IT'S DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT WON'T ACCELERATE WHEN IT HAPPENS AND ON THE INTERSTATE IS NO PLACE TO BE DRIVING 40MPH!!

KEYLOCK ISSUE. CAR WILL NOT START. SITTING IN DRIVEWAY FOR 8 MONTHS SO FAR. CANNOT AFFORD TO FIX. NO WARRANTY..NO RECALL ON ISSUE. I'VE READ THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES TO OTHER NISSAN OWNERS. THE FIX COSTS 800 TO 1000 & NOT INCLUDING THE TOW FEE 100$

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT IN ORDER FOR THE VEHICLE TO START IT REQUIRED A JUMP START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DETERMINED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 74,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHEN DRIVING IN WEATHER ABOVE 84 DEGREES, THE CRUISE CONTROL FAILED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CVT TRANSMISSION OVERHEATED AND THE VEHICLE NEEDED A VALVE BODY AND OIL COOLER TO CORRECT THE DEFECT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 92,000. THE VIN WAS NOT PROVIDED. UPDATED 09/06/16*LJ *TR

PLEASE NOTE THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD THAT OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS DRIVING ONE THE INTERSTATE OR HIGHWAY AT 55-70 MPH. THE CAR WILL DECELERATE AND SLOWLY LOSE SPEED. I CAN SLAM THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR AND THE CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE. THIS USUALLY HAPPENS IN VERY HOT WEATHER. IT ALWAYS HAPPENS IN MOTION, AND SOMETIMES ON A HILL. IT HAS ALMOST CAUSED ME TO BE REAR-ENDED WHILE HAULING CHILDREN IN MY VEHICLE. IF I STOP THE CAR AND WAIT ABOUT 10 MINUTES, I CAN START IT UP AND CONTINUE ON GOING 300 OR MORE MILES BEFORE IT MAY HAPPEN AGAIN. THIS HAD HAPPENED ABOUT 4 TIMES IN THE LAST 4-5 MONTHS, BUT NOW IT IS OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY. THERE WAS NO ENGINE LIGHT AND IT WAS NOT GIVING A CODE. I TOOK IT TO EAST TENNESSEE NISSAN IN MORRISTOWN, TN, WHO COULD NOT DETERMINE THE PROBLEM BUT SAID SIMILAR CARS ARE EXPERIENCING TRANSMISSION ISSUES. I TOOK IT TO A LICENSED TRANSMISSION SHOP WHO COULD NOT GET A CODE. THE TRANSMISSION SHOP SAID IT COULD BE A PROBLEM STARTING WITH THE VALVE BODY OF THE TRANSMISSION AS HE HAS SEEN AS MANY PROBLEMS WITH THE 2011-2012 MODELS AS THE EARLIER MODELS THAT GOT EXTENDED WARRANTIES. BOTH PLACES SAID THEY COULD NOT GIVE A GUARANTEED FIX BECAUSE IT IS NOT SHOWING THEM A PROBLEM. YESTERDAY, THE PROBLEM OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES ON OUR WAY HOME FROM VACATION, ALMOST GETTING US HIT BY A SEMI TRUCK. FINALLY, AFTER 6 RESTARTS YESTERDAY, THE CAR IS SHOWING CODE P0744, WHICH IS TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH INTERMITTENT WHICH WE HAVE BEEN TOLD IS THE TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY