2010 Nissan Altima complaints

I WAS OWNER 2010 ALTIMA .THE UNDER EXCELLENT MAINTAIN.WHEN I BUY THIS .WE WORRY ABOUT CVT TRANSMISSION WEAK AND BUY 100K MILE WARRANTY. THE CAR ONLY OVER 125 MILE OF 100 K THE TRANSMISSION FAIL. AND TOWING TO DEALER .THE DEALER DIAGNOSE CVT FAIL BUT NISSAN REFUSE DEALER REPLACE TRANSMISSION AND REQUEST DEALER REPLACE TCM(TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE) FIRST.THAT WASTE MY TIME .10 DAYS IN DEALER SHOP STILL NOT ANY RESULT. *TR

PROBLEM WITH BATTERY GOING DEAD, I HAVE READ THERE IS A FAULT IN THE BCM NOT BEING PROGRAMMED PROPERLY. *TR

I HAVE ALREADY DRAFTED A MORE DETAILED DOCUMENT REFLECTING ALL THE DETAILS EXPERIENCED WITH MY ISSUE IN REGARDS TO PART: TRANSMISSION COOLER, PART #21606-ZX59A; NISSAN ALTIMA 2010. NISSAN IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE. THEY HAVE EXPLAINED THAT THIS PART IS AN ACCESSORY AND THAT THE CAR CAN BE DRIVEN FOR SHORT PERIODS OF TIME, THEN LETTING THE CAR "COOL DOWN". I RECENTLY DROVE FROM UPPER MARLBORO MD EN ROUTE TO RIVERVIEW(1,000 MILES), FL. WHEN GETTING TO RICHMOND, VA(300 MILES) MY RPM'S JUMPED FROM 2,000 TO 5,000. I BEGAN TO DECELERATE, AND THE CAR WOULD NOT GO FASTER WHEN THE ACCELERATOR WAS APPLIED. THE CAR WAS TAKEN TO A NISSAN 4 MILES AWAY FROM WHERE I BROKE DOWN. THE CAR WAS DIAGNOSED BY NISSAN. THE PART NEEDED IS ON NATIONAL BACK ORDER. CUSTOMER CARE/NISSAN ADVISES THAT THE CAR IS DRIVE-ABLE, BUT FOR NOT LONG PERIODS OF TIME. MORE IMPORTANTLY, THIS CAR WAS DESIGNED WITHOUT THIS PART. TO THIS DATE, MY CAR IS AT NISSAN IN CHESTER, VA AWAITING THE PART ON A 4 WEEK BACK ORDER TO BE REPAIRED. I WILL NOT JEOPARDIZE MY LIFE BY DRIVING A MALFUNCTIONING CAR. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH NISSAN AND THIS VEHICLE, BUT THERE IS NO ACTION TO FIX THIS ISSUE BEFORE SOMEONE LIKE MYSELF OR SOMEONE ELSE GETS INTO A GOD FORBIDDEN DEVASTATING ACCIDENT. PLEASE DO NOT LET THIS MAJOR CORPORATION INFLICT DAMAGE ON THE PUBLIC! WE TRUST IN YOU TO BE OUR PROTECTOR!!! *TR

I HAVE READ NUMEROUS ACCOUNTS OF THE NISSAN ALTIMA BEING UNABLE TO START WHEN THE REQUIRED BRAKE/START BUTTON IS USED. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED AND THE START BUTTON PUSHED, THE ACC LIGHT COMES ON THEN, IF PUSHED AGAIN, THE ON LIGHT COMES ON (OVER THE START BUTTON). THEN WHEN PUSHED AGAIN, THE SYSTEM SHUTS OFF. BY TRYING SEVERAL TIMES AND PUMPING THE BRAKE, THE CAR WILL EVENTUALLY START. SINCE THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED NUMEROUS TIMES, THERE IS OBVIOUSLY A DEFECT IN THE CAR'S PARTS/SYSTEM. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL TO HAVE NISSAN REPLACE THE FAULTY PARTS FREE OF CHARGE. *TR

I WAS DRIVING DOWN A RESIDENTIAL ROAD AND MY STABILITY CONTROL TURNED OFF ON ITS OWN AND I COULD NOT TURN IT BACK ON. AT THE TIME THAT IT TURNED OFF MY PARKING BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON, EVENTUALLY IT TURNED OFF BUT FLASHED ON TWO MORE TIMES AS I WAS DRIVING UP HILL. I WAS NEVER ABLE TO TURN THE VDC (ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL) BACK ON. *TR

THE OTHER DRIVER MADE AN ILLEGAL LEFT TURN CAUSING THE ACCIDENT. THE SEAT BELTS WERE BUCKLED AND THE 2 FRONT AIR BAGS ACTIVATED. I AM A MECHANICAL ENGINEER, I TRIED VERY HARD TO UNCOVER THE SOURCE OF SHRAPNEL INJURIES ON MY KNEES, ON MY HEAD, AND ON MY NECK. ALSO, MY WIFE RECEIVED SEVERAL SHRAPNEL INJURIES ON HER HEAD AND ON HER BODY. RECENTLY, I REALIZED THAT THESE SHRAPNEL INJURIES WERE CAUSED BY EXPLODING PLASTIC CASINGS AROUND THE SEAT BELTS. THE OTHER DRIVER WAS MINIMALLY INSURED. WITHOUT ANY LAW SUIT, WE GOT A SMALL PARTIAL COMPENSATION FOR THESE INJURIES. THE EXPLODING SEAT BELT BOXES WERE NOT INITIALLY THOUGHT OF. NOW, I FIRMLY BELIEVE THAT MY WIFE AND I WERE SERIOUSLY HARMED BY SHRAPNEL FROM THESE EXPLODING PLASTIC COVERS...UPDATED 11/17/14 *BF *TF UPDATED 8/31/2017*CN

NORFOLK, VIRGINIA - MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA WITH PUSH BUTTON START FAILED TO START. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL SEEMED FINE. I HAD JUST PREVIOUSLY NOTICED THE ABS, VDC AND SLIP WARNING LIT WHILE DRIVING. AFTER CHECKING FUSES, KEY FOB BATTERIES, ETC. I ATTEMPTED TO PUMP THE BRAKES SEVERAL TIMES AND IT FINALLY STARTED. DROVE IMMEDIATELY TO THE DEALER WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE BRAKE LAMP SWITCH AND HARNESS WHICH MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $550.00. HE SEEMED TO KNOW WITH OUT OF EVEN LOOKING WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. WHEN I QUESTIONED HIM ABOUT SUCH AN EXPENSIVE SWITCH, HE ONLY SAID "THIS HAPPENS A LOT WITH THIS MODEL." THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED AT NISSAN'S EXPENSE. *TR

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: THIS PARTICULAR INCIDENT DATE WAS ON 8/7/14 BUT ALSO REPORTED 8/23/14 & 9/30/14 AT TWO NISSAN DEALERSHIPS. I WAS DRIVING AT 65MPH FOR 1 HOUR ON THE HIGHWAY AND FELT A LOSS OF CONTROL. THE STEERING WHEEL ABRUPTLY TURNED RIGHT, I HAD TO ATTEMPT TO KEEP THE VEHICLE WITHIN THE LANE AND SLOWLY DECELERATED TO A STOP ON THE ROADSIDE WITHOUT IMMEDIATE BRAKING. WHILE BRAKING AT 15-20MPH I APPLIED THE BRAKE WHICH JERKED THE ENTIRE CAR TO THE RIGHT, SUSPENSION WAS STIFF ON PASSENGER FRONT STRUT. THE CAR HAD BARELY 70000 MILES, HAD BEEN UP TO DATE ON SERVICES, WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE STEERING INCIDENT. 8/23/14 THE CAR EXPERIENCED A SUDDEN LOSS OF STEERING WITH A "DRAGGING" FEEL AND NEARLY HIT ANOTHER VEHICLE, CAR SEEMED TO "FLOAT" AND COULD NOT FIND A "STRAIGHT" LINE, EITHER IT TURNED SLIGHTLY LEFT OR SUDDEN RIGHT. THIS WAS INCREDIBLY CONCERNING AND I FELT IT WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE. DEALERSHIP COULD NOT DUPLICATE, TOLD TO INSTALL BRAKE BOOSTER. 9/30/14 UNABLE TO OPERATE THE VEHICLE, UPON START IT WOULD "KNOCK" WHEN PUT INTO GEAR, GRINDING NOISE TO THE PASSENGER FRONT SIDE, TURNED THE STEERING WHEEL RIGHT IF COASTING AT 5MPH. DEALER COULD NOT DUPLICATE ON A TEST DRIVE BUT ADVISED A NEW STEERING RACK, A DIAGNOSIS TO A PROBLEM THAT WAS NOT SEEN IN THE SHOP. ALMOST EVERY TIME THE CAR HAS BEEN RUNNING FOR LONGER THAN AN HOUR OR AT HIGHWAY SPEED I HAVE LOST STEERING CONTROL. I HAVE HAD MY WIFE WITH ME ON TWO EVENT

AFTER PURCHASING THIS USED 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA FROM A LOCAL DEALER IN 2012, MY HUSBAND AND I WERE DRIVING PART OF A GIRL'S SOCCER TEAM TO REDDING, CA. THE CAR PERFORMED WELL ON THE HIGHWAY, BUT WHEN WE REACHED REDDING FROM OUR HOME TOWN APPROXIMATELY 1 1/2 HOURS AWAY, THE CAR SUDDENLY STALLED AT A SLOW SPEED. IT LIMPED TO A PARKING LOT, WHERE WE WERE UNABLE TO START IT FOR ABOUT 1 1/2 HOURS. SINCE THEN, IT HAS INTERMITTENTLY STALLED, USUALLY IN VERY HIGH TEMPERATURES, AFTER DRIVING HIGHWAY SPEEDS FOR AN HOUR OR TWO. WE TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AFTER THE FIRST INCIDENT BUT WERE TOLD THAT THEY COULDN'T ASCERTAIN THE PROBLEM. WE HAVE TAKEN IT TO A TRUSTED TRANSMISSION MECHANIC, AND OUR OWN MECHANIC, WHO CANNOT FIND A PROBLEM. I REPORTED IT TO THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRANSPORTATION SAFETY PEOPLE OVER A YEAR AGO, BUT HAVE NOT BEEN CONTACTED BY THEM NOR HAVE I SEEN ANY ATTEMPT BY THEM TO ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM, ALTHOUGH MANY ATTEST TO IT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. AFTER THE PUSH TO START BUTTON WAS INSTALLED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART AFTER BEING DRIVEN AFTER APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VDS, SLIP, AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS. THE FAILURE OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE BRAKE SWITCH WAS DEFECTIVE, WHICH PREVENTED THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA IS NOT ABLE TO START DUE TO THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION. IT IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AS THE 2009 NISSAN MAXIMA'S AND ALTIMA ARE HAVING, WHICH IS THE ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN LOCK (ESCL). NISSAN HAS ISSUED A WARRANTY EXTENSION FOR THIS ISSUE FOR THE 2009 MODEL BUT NOT FOR THE 2010 AND OTHER ALTIMA MODELS THAT ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I BELIEVE THAT NISSAN SHOULD EXTEND IT COVERAGE TO THIS VITAL PART DUE TO THE COST BEING OVER $700 TO REPLACE AND THE FACT THAT WITHOUT THIS PART, THE CAR CANNOT FUNCTION AT ALL. *TR

NISSAN ALTIMA 2010 (~25K MILES SO FAR) WOULD NOT START UPON PRESS THE START BUTTON, SO THE CAR IS IMMOBILIZED. WALKED AWAY, CAME BACK 15 MINUTES, AND BY CHANCE, IT STARTED. THIS HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES FOR THE PAST 2 MONTHS. THE LAST TRY, NO SUCH LUCK WHEN ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. CHECK THE CAR BATTERY WAS AT 45%. SO I CHARGED THE BATTERY TO 100% AND STILL NO LUCK STARTING THE CAR. CALL NISSANASSIST AND RECOMMENDED THE CAR BE TOWED TO NISSAN AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER. I DID AND THEIR DIAGNOSIS ($119.00) ARE A BAD BRAKE SWITCH/WIRING HARNESS COMBO ISSUE AND COST ABOUT OVER $600.00. THE CAR IS NOW OUT OF WARRANTY. THE LOCAL SERVICE MANAGER SAID "OFF THE RECORD", THIS KNOWN DEFECTIVE BRAKE SWITCH WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START, ALSO IT IS CONSUMING THE BATTERY ELECTRICAL CURRENT AND OVER TIME. THIS CONTINUOUS BLEEDING OF CURRENT WILL HEAT UP THE WIRE HARNESS/CONNECTORS DUE TO THE CAR STARTING AND ITS SECURITY FEATURES, AND THUS EVENTUALLY DRAINING YOUR CAR BATTERY AND DAMAGING THE WIRE HARNESS. THAT IS WHY YOU WILL HAVE A DEAD BATTERY OVER TIME OF 1-2 WEEKS. THIS IS A MONEY MAKING PROPOSITION FOR NISSAN CORPORATION AND THE LOCAL SERVICE PERSON MENTIONED ABOUT A RASH OF BAD SWITCH OCCURRENCES LAST YEAR (2013). IN SHORT, IF YOU DON'T USE THE NISSAN SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR YOUR CAR AND SPEND $$$ WITH THEM, THE NISSANASSIST WON'T HELP YOU DEFRAY THE COST FOR THE CAR DEFECTIVE AS YOU DID NOT "INVEST" WITH THEM .SO NHTSA, PEOPLE WON'T DIE WITH THIS DEFECTIVE, BUT WILL CAUSE MANY INCONVE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT AIR BAG SENSOR FAILED TO DETECT WHEN THE SEAT WAS OCCUPIED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 32,000.

GO INTO MY CAR AFTER WORK DROVE TO THE HIGHWAY WHICH WAS LESS THAN A MILE AWAY. MERGED INTO TRAFFIC THE CAR WAS STUCK AT 40 MPH AND BEGAN TO LOSE SPEED TIL EVENTUALLY THE CAR JUST STOPPED. LUCKILY I WAS ABOUT TO GET ON TO SHOULDER AND AWAY FROM TRAFFIC. *TR

WHEN YOU TRY TO START VEHICLE YOU PUSH ON BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOESN'T GO DOWN 1/16 OF AN INCH. THE BRAKE LIGHTS WONT EVEN COME ON. IF YOU PUSH THE START BUTTON IT WILL ONLY GO TO THE ACCESSORY THEN OFF. WHEN I ASKED SERVICE MANAGER AT NELSON NISSAN IN BROKEN ARROW, OK AND I QUOTE "HE SAID YOU HAD TO HAVE KEY ON BEFORE BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD COME ON"... I AM LIKE REALLY!!! THE BRAKE LIGHTS UMM NO THEY SHOULD COME ON ANYTIME YOU PUSH THE BRAKE IF THE KEY IS ON OR NOT. PLEASE HELP US AMERICAN'S AND OTHER HARD WORKING TAX PAYING PEOPLE GET OUR CARS FIXED. WE PAID GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY FOR THEM AND NOW ALL WE HAVE IN A LEMON IN ARE GARAGE. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOU TIME, GOD BLESS YOU! AND GOD BLESS AMERICA!!! *TR

THE CAR WILL NOT START, STEERING LOCK MALFUNCTION. *TR

THE BRAKE COULDN'T BE PRESSED SO THE PUSH BUTTON START WOULDN'T WORK. ALSO, THE ABS & VDC LIGHTS STAY ON EVEN WHILE DRIVING(SOMETIMES). YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN ITS GOING TO HAPPEN. I HAVE BEEN LATE TO WORK, UNABLE TO TAKE THE KIDS TO SCHOOL, AND AFRAID TO DRIVE MY OWN CAR THAT I USED TO LOVE, IN FEAR OF NOT BEING ABLE TO START THE DARN THING!! I SEE A LOT OF CUSTOMERS HAVE HAD THIS SAME TYPE OF ISSUE. IS THERE ANY KIND OF RECALL? *TR

THIS ISSUE FORCE ME TO SPEND 1600 FOR A NEW STEERING COLUMN BECAUSE I CAR WOULD NOT STARTED. *TR

MY WIFE JUST PHONED TO TELL ME THE CVT TRANSMISSION FAILED-AGAIN- LEAVING HER STRANDED IN A PARKING LOT IN A BAD PART OF HOUSTON (SW). THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES AND HAS BEEN TAKEN TO NISSAN DEALER IN ANGLETON, TEXAS FOR THIS PROBLEM. IN DECEMBER OF 2014 THEY INSTALLED A TRANSMISSION COOLER,THINKING IT'S AN OVERHEATING PROBLEM. MY WIFE STATED SHES GLAD IT DIDN'T HAPPEN ON THE FREEWAY AS IT MIGHT HAD CAUSED A COLLISION WITH POSSIBLE DEATH,ETC. NISSAN HAS NOT RESOLVED THESE CVT ISSUES AND YOU-NHTSA- HAVE NOT FORCED THEM TO DO SO EITHER. WHEN THE CVT FAILS YOU LOSE POWER AS IT GOES INTO A DEFAULT MODE. THIS HAPPENS WITHOUT WARNING AND CAUSES LOSS OF ACCELERATION AND ABILITY TO MOVE OUT OF HAZARDOUS SITUATIONS. THE ONLY REMEDY IS TO PARK THE CAR AND WAIT FOR IT TO COOL,THUS RESETTING THE DEFAULT MODE. AT THIS POINT NISSAN HAS ADVISED TO BRING THE CAR IN FOR A CODE SCAN. THIS IS DANGEROUS ENOUGH THAT I PLAN TO TAKE THE CAR IN WITH THE INTENTION OF GETTING RID OF IT!!! I WILL TRADE IT IN FOR A TOYOTA CAMRY BUT UNFORTUNATELY SOME OTHER PERSON WILL BE STUCK WITH THE SAME DANGEROUS CVT ISSUES AND COULD ALSO BE KILLED OR INJURED BECAUSE OF THIS TRANSMISSION FAILURE AND BECAUSE YOU HAVE NOT FORCED NISSAN TO FIX THE PROBLEM. I HAVE COMPLAINED TO YOU OF THIS SAME ISSUE WITH NEGATIVE RESULTS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE ABS, VDC, AND SLIP INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. ALSO, THE BRAKES SEIZED AND FAILED TO ENGAGE. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE ABS SENSOR AND CALIPER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000.

HAVING TROUBLE SUDDENLY WITH BRAKES GRABBING AND STOPPING SHORT. TOOK TO DEALER AND THEY SAID IT WAS THE BRAKE BOOSTER-$700 IS THIS NORMAL FOR 29000 MILES I UNDERSTAND THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE MASTER CYLINDER OF THESE CARS LEAKING INTO THE BOOSTER, BUT THEY SAID THAT DIDN'T HAPPEN. *TR

REPEATED OCCURRENCE OF THE AIR BAG LIGHT ON AND THE PASSENGER AIR BAG LIGHT ON WHEN A PASSENGER IS SITTING IN THE SEAT. THE LIGHT TURNED ON AFTER MY VEHICLE WAS SERVICED FOR A NEW RADIO NEEDING TO BE INSTALLED AND THE REAR SPEAKER BLEW. THE LIGHT HAS BEEN RESET TWICE BUT STILL TURNS ON. WARRANTY IS OUT AND DEALER STATED FRONT PASSENGER SEAT NEEDS REPLACED WHICH IS TOTAL COST OF 1,000. THERE IS RECALL ON THE 2013 2014 MODELS FOR SAME ISSUE. THIS YEAR SHOULD BE ADDED . THE CAR HAS LOW MILES TO HAVE THIS ISSUE. *TR

THERE IS A LOUD NOISE. I HAVE HEARD SAME NOISE FROM OTHER ALTIMA'S. I SEE THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THE A CRACK IN THE STRUTS FOR THIS MODEL. I FEEL IT SHOULD BE FIXED BY THE MANUFACTURE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PUSH-TO-START BUTTON FAILED TO RESPOND. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE ABS AND THE SLP WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WOULD START AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS OR THE VEHICLE WOULD HAVE TO RECEIVE A JUMP START TO THE BATTERY FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE IN ORDER TO START PROPERLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE BRAKE AND THE PARK LIGHT SWITCH FAILED. AS A RESULT THE WIRING HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100.

CAR HAD INTERMITTENT NO START CONDITION AND INTERMITTENT BRAKE LIGHT OUTAGE. MECHANIC REPLACED FAULTY ORIGINAL STOP LAMP SWITCH 25320-AX00C(N). *TR

TL * THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO POWER ON HOWEVER THE INSTRUMENT PANEL ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE DIAGNOSIS WAS UNDETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

MY CAR WOULDN'T START WHEN I PUSHED THE PUSH BUTTON START AND PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. LATER THAT DAY THE CAR STARTED. I HAD IT CHECKED AND THE DEALER SAID IF IT HAPPENED AGAIN TO HAVE IT TOWED.YESTERDAY THE CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN WHEN I PRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL AND PUSHED THE START BUTTON. AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO GET THE BRAKE PEDAL TO START THE CAR, IT STARTED. IT IS GOING TO THE DEALER TO BE CHECKED. THE STARTING MECHANISM IS POOR AND UNRELIABLE. *TR

MY 2010 ALTIMA HAS A PUSH START IGNITION LAST MONTH WHILE VISITING IN PA THE BRAKE LIGHT, VDC, AND SLIP LIGHT CAME ON AND REMAINS ON. WE STOPPED AND THEN THE CAR FAILED TO RESTART. WE WERE ABLE TO GET BACK HOME TO NY AND I TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL DEALER WHERE THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST RESULT WAS A BAD BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. WHICH COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT FROM THE BRAKE TO THE PUSH START BUTTON TO ALLOW THE CAR TO START. I RESEARCHED ON LINE AND FOUND A FEW DIFFERENT FORUMS ONE BEING NISSANCLUB.COM WHERE I FOUND A NUMBER OF PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE. I CONTACTED NISSAN CUSTOMER AFFAIRS AND GOT NOWHERE. I WAS WONDERING HOW MANY PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE ARE NEEDED FOR AN ISSUE LIKE THIS TO BE CONSIDERED A RECALL BECAUSE WITH THAT BEING A DAMAGED PART THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO START THE CAR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY TWO HOURS THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY FAILED TO ACCELERATE OVER 60 MPH AND THE RPM'S WOULD NOT INCREASE PAST 2000. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT THE DEFECT RECURRED ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS AFTER DRIVING FOR MORE THAN TWO HOURS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR WAS THE VEHICLE REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 121,895.

I HAVE THE EVENFLO CHASE CARSEAT LISTED ON THE EVENFLO RECALL BUT THE REPRESENTATIVE I TALKED WITH EVENFLO SAYS IT IS NOT ON THE RECALL. IT WAS ON THE RECALL ACCORDING TO THEIR INFORMATION ON THE COMPUTER. I COULD NOT PUSH THE RED BUTTON TO RELEASE THE CROTCH STRAP. NEITHER COULD THE POLICEMAN TRYING TO HELP ME. IT WAS 95 DEGREES OUTSIDE WHEN THIS OCCURRED. VERY BAD SITUATION. EVENFLO COMPANY IS NOT HONORING THEIR RECALL. I WILL NEVER BUY ANYTHING FROM EVENFLO AGAIN. THE EVENFLO REPRESENTATIVE WAS A VERY RUDE AND ARGUMENTATIVE. (RELATED VEHICLE INFORMATION: MODEL YEAR=2010, MAKE=ALTIMA, MODEL=NISSAN). *TR

I NEED TO DRIVE FROM MD TO GA EVERY COUPLE OF MONTH. I NOTICED THAT IF I DRIVE MY CAR CONTINUOUSLY FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS (ABOUT 3 OR 4 HOURS), THE CAR WON'T ACCELERATE FROM A STOP FOR AT LEAST COUPLE OF SECONDS. I HAVE FLOORED THE GAS PEDAL, BUT THE ENGINE WAS LIKE 2000 RPM. THE CAR BARELY MOVES. IT THEN BECOME NORMAL AFTER ABOUT 3 SECONDS. BECAUSE OF THIS, I WAS ALMOST INVOLVED IN ACCIDENTS SEVERAL TIMES WHEN I WAS TRYING TO PULL FROM A TRAFFIC LIGHT. I WENT TO A NISSAN DEALER TO CHECK WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. BUT THE DEALER (NORRIS NISSAN WEST NEAR BALTIMORE) TOLD ME THEY COULD NOT REPEAT THE PROBLEM SO THEY WILL NOT DO ANYTHING. I THOUGHT THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS FOR DRIVERS LIKE ME AND THE DEALER'S ACTION IS IRRESPONSIBLE AND UNACCEPTABLE. NOW I AM AFRAID OF DRIVING MY CAR FOR RELATIVELY LONG TRIPS NOW. *TR

DURING A ROUTINE SERVICE I WAS TOLD THAT THE SHOCK ABSORBERS WERE IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT. SINCE THIS IS A CRITICAL PART OF THE CAR IN TERMS OF STABILITY AND SINCE THERE WAS ONLY 39000 MILES ON THE CAR I THOUGHT IT WAS LIKELY A FAULT IN MANUFACTURE. I AM A SENIOR CITIZEN AND ONLY DRIVE ON WELL PAVED ROADS AND HIGHWAYS. I DO NOT PULL A TRAILER OR THE LIKE. I CONTACTED NISSAN ABOUT THIS BUT THEY DECLINED TO TAKE ACTION. I AM CONCERNED THAT THIS MIGHT REPRESENT A SAFETY HAZARD FOR OTHERS WHO MAY NOT HAVE THIS DEFECT DISCOVERED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS AN EVENFLO CAR SEAT THAT WAS BEING USED IN A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CAR SEAT HARNESS AND LATCH BUCKLE WAS HARD TO OPEN. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE.

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS HAD DIFFICULTY STARTING. ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD COME ON BUT THE ENGINE WOULDN'T TURNOVER. AT FIRST I COULD GET IT TO START AFTER A FEW TRIES (I WOULD PUMP THE BRAKES, BANG ON THE STEERING WHEEL). THEN I NOTICED WHILE DRIVING THE VDS (TRACTION CONTROL), ABS AND PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING. THIS MEANT THAT MY VDS WAS NOT FUNCTIONING. IT ALSO MEANT MY BRAKE LIGHTS WEREN'T FUNCTIONING WHILE I WAS DRIVING. ON 6 /01/2014 I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND COULD NOT. I HAD IT TOWED TO MY AUTO REPAIR SHOP (MAPLE GROVE AUTO, MAPLE GROVE MN) WHERE THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED ME THAT IT REQUIRED A NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, HARNESS AND BAND HOSES. HE TOLD ME THERE WAS A NISSAN SERVICE BULLETIN AS THIS WAS A "KNOWN ISSUE". SO MUCH SO THAT NISSAN HAD ACTUALLY DEVELOPED A MORE DEPENDABLE BRAKE SWITCH. THE SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER IS NTB10-139- WHICH WAS RELEASED ON NOVEMBER 23RD 2010. HE TOLD ME TO REPAIR IT WAS GOING TO COST OVER 500.00. THE FAULTY BRAKE SWITCH IS A SAFETY HAZARD AS IT CAUSES THE CAR TO THROW ERROR CODES WHICH DEACTIVATES THE TRACTION CONTROL AND ABS. WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN A RECALL? WHY DOES IT COST $500 TO REPAIR A MALFUNCTIONING COMPONENT THAT SHORTLY AFTER THE CAR WAS RELEASED, THE MANUFACTURE ACKNOWLEDGED IT WAS FAULTY? WHY WOULD THE NHTSA WAIT UNTIL SOMEBODY DIES IN A CRASH CAUSED BY THE VDS AND ABS FEATURES NOT WORKING BEFORE THEY FORCE A RECALL/REPAIR OF THIS KNOWN ISSUE? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED AND STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT THE VEHICLE INTO REVERSE. THE FAILURE RECURRED FOR TWO MONTHS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING; HOWEVER, THEY WERE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WERE NOT AVAILABLE.

I PURCHASED A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA ABOUT THREE YEARS AGO. THE FIRST PROBLEM STARTED WITH THE CAR FAILING TO START. THAT PROBLEM STILL HAPPENS TO THIS DAY. THE NEXT PROBLEM IS MY CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE AT TIMES. I HAVE HAD SEVERAL INCIDENT WHEN I AM AT A STOP LIGHT, INTERSECTION, OR REDLIGHT WHERE I APPLY THE GAS ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND THE CAR WILL NOT MOVE. I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE AND IT STILL WOULD NOT MOVE. AFTER WAITING ABOUT 20 SECOND AND APPLY THE GAS IT FINALLY GOES AND DRIVE NORMAL. ME AND MY KIDS WERE ALMOST IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WHEN THE CAR STALLED IN FRONT OF A BIG MACK TRUCK. NOW AFTER THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS, MY CAR SITS IN MY FRONT YARD UNABLE TO MOVE AT ALL AND NOW THERE'S A BURNING SMELL COMING FROM THE CAR. THESE CARS ARE A DEATH TRAP AND I REFUSE TO KEEP PUTTING MY LIFE AND MY CHILDREN LIVES IN DANGER. THE GOVERNMENT NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING!!! *TR

WHEN DRIVING DOOR COME UNLOCKED .. ONCE CAR IS PARKED AND LOCKED BOTH WINDOWS ARE COMING DOWN AND BOTH DOORS ARE UNLOCKED CAR WIDE OPEN EVERY HOUR OR SO ... I AM NOT PRESSING KEY FOB OR ANYTHING.. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 80 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND ALL OF THE WARNING LAMPS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE BODY CONTROL MODULE WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE REMEDY FAILED TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 35,500.

ON 02/25 I WAS T-BONED BY SOMEONE THAT RAN A RED LIGHT WHO WAS GOING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH AND HIT THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR/QUARTER PANEL AND I WAS WONDERING WHY IT IS THAT MY SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY? FROM MY UNDERSTANDING, IN A COLLISION WITH THAT KIND OF SPEED AND THE PLACEMENT OF THE IMPACT, THE AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED BUT IT DID NOT. WHILE THE CAR WAS BEING REPAIRED, I ASKED THE BODY SHOP TO CHECK INTO WHY IT DID NOT, AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THE FIRING PIN FOR THE AIRBAG, WAS SMASHED TO PIECES. WHICH FURTHER TELLS ME THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH MY CAR TO MAKE THE AIRBAG NOT DEPLOY. I AM JUST GRATEFUL THAT MY PASSENGER AND MYSELF WERE BOTH UNINJURED FROM THE INCIDENT BESIDES A SLIGHT CASE OF WHIPLASH. EVERYONE INCLUDING THE POLICE OFFICERS THAT ARRIVED ON SCENE AND THE BODY SHOP WERE AMAZED THAT NO ONE WAS INJURED ESPECIALLY SINCE THERE WAS NO AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT TO HELP PROTECT HER. *JS

I STARTED TO HEAR A RATTLING NOISE UNDER THE HOOD OF MY CAR. IT WAS FOUND TO BE THAT THE ALTERNATOR/CLUTCH WAS ABOUT TO GO OUT. I COULD ALSO HEAR IT WHEN DRIVING AND PRESSING MY FOOT ON THE GAS. THE RATTLING NOISE WAS PRESENT WHEN I WAS IN PARK OR REVERSE. *TR

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS HAD DIFFICULTY STARTING. ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD COME ON BUT THE ENGINE WOULDN'T TURNOVER. AT FIRST I COULD GET IT TO START AFTER A FEW TRIES (I WOULD PUMP THE BRAKES, SLAM THE CAR HOOD, BANG ON THE STEERING WHEEL). THEN I NOTICED WHILE DRIVING THE VDS (TRACTION CONTROL), ABS AND PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING. THIS MEANT THAT MY VDS WAS NOT FUNCTIONING AND AS SUCH I LOST CONTROL OF MY CAR SEVERAL TIMES ON WET SURFACES. ON 4/22/2014 I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND COULD NOT. I HAD IT TOWED TO A NISSAN DEALERSHIP (ORR NISSAN IN CORINTH TEXAS) WHERE THE SERVICE MANAGER INFORMED ME THAT IT REQUIRED A NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, HARNESS AND BAND HOSES. HE TOLD ME THERE WAS A NISSAN SERVICE BULLETIN AS THIS WAS A "KNOWN ISSUE". SO MUCH SO THAT NISSAN HAD ACTUALLY DEVELOPED A MORE DEPENDABLE BRAKE SWITCH. THE SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER IS NTB10-139- WHICH WAS RELEASED ON NOVEMBER 23RD 2010. HE TOLD ME TO REPAIR IT WAS GOING TO COST OVER 500.00. THE FAULTY BRAKE SWITCH IS A SAFETY HAZARD AS IT CAUSES THE CAR TO THROW ERROR CODES WHICH DEACTIVATES THE TRACTION CONTROL AND ABS. WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN A RECALL? WHY IS A DEALERSHIP CHARGING 500 DOLLARS TO REPAIR A MALFUNCTIONING COMPONENT THAT SHORTLY AFTER THE CAR WAS RELEASED, THE MANUFACTURE ACKNOWLEDGED IT WAS FAULTY? FURTHERMORE, BASED ON MY CALCULATIONS THE DEALERSHIP IS PUTTING A 300% MARK UP ON THE PARTS REQUIRED. WHY WOULD THE NHTSA WAIT UNTIL SOMEBODY DIES IN A CRASH CAUSED

I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT WHERE I WAS HIT AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND MY CAR SPUN OUT OF CONTROL. THE CAR WAS TRAVELING BACKWARDS WHEN IT WENT OFF THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY AND INTO A DITCH. WHEN THE REAR OF THE CAR ENTERED THE DITCH THE IMPACT WAS SIGNIFICANT AND MY DRIVER SIDE SEAT BACK WENT ALL THE WAY BACK. I FEEL THAT THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT DEFECT, BECAUSE THE SEAT BACK AND SEAT BELT SHOULD KEEP THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS AS STILL AS POSSIBLE. I DON'T BELIEVE THAT THE SEAT BACK COLLAPSING BACKWARDS IS INTENDED BY THE DESIGN. WHEN I WENT TO VIEW THE CAR AND RETRIEVE MY PERSONAL BELONGINGS, I TRIED TO BRING THE SEAT BACK TO THE UPRIGHT POSITION, BUT THE LEVER WAS BENT AND WAS NOT ABLE TO BE LIFTED IN ORDER TO BRING THE SEAT BACK UP. I TOOK PICTURES OF THE BENT LEVER AND THE POSITION OF THE SEAT.

MY PASSENGER AIR BAG LIGHT FLICKERS WHEN NO ONE IS SITTING OR EVEN AN ADULT IS SITTING. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER AND THE SERVICE MANAGER STATED THAT WAS COMMON FOR IT FLICKER BASED ON THE WEIGHT OF THE PASSENGER. NOW, I SEE THAT 2013 - 2014 HAVE HAD A RECALL WITH SIMILAR ISSUES. *TR

DEAR SIR OR MADAM --' MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA SUFFERS FROM THE SAME PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT ISSUES NISSAN ANNOUNCED TODAY, 3/26/2014, IN LATER MODELS (2013-2014). THIS SUGGESTS THAT THE FAILURE OF AIRBAGS TO DEPLOY ON NISSAN VEHICLES IS MORE WIDESPREAD--AND COVERS MANY MORE YEARS--THAN NISSAN HAS STATED. HTTP://WWW.USATODAY.COM/STORY/MONEY/CARS/2014/03/26/NISSAN-RECALL-AIR-BAGS-ALTIMA-SENTRA-LEAF/6902937/ THANK YOU. *TR

THE LACK OF LIGHTING INDICATOR MAKES THAT CAR VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE AT DUSK & DAWN TIMES. THE DASH BOARD IS SLIGHTLY LESS LIT WHEN THE LIGHTS ARE ON. THE DRIVER WOULD NOT KNOW WHETHER THE BOARD LIGHT IS IN THE "MORE" OR THE "LESS" STATUS. UNLIKE IN OLDER CARS, THE DASH BOARD IS NOT DARK WHEN THE LIGHT IS NOT ON SO THAT THE DRIVER IS ALERTED. THIS IS A MAJOR HUMAN FACTOR DEFECT. IT IS THE CAUSE OF COLLISIONS AT TIMES OF RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. I AM A PROFESSIONAL ENGINEER WITH UTMOST QUALIFICATIONS IN HUMAN RELIABILITY ANALYSES(HRA). FOR A PERIOD OF 9 YEARS, I WAS THE ELECTED CHAIRMAN OF A LARGE INTERNATIONAL GROUP OF HRA ENGINEERS RESPONSIBLE FOR MINIMIZING HUMAN ERRORS AT NUCLEAR POWER PLANTS. OUR CAR WAS TOTALED. MY WIFE HAD 4 BROKEN RIBS. I HAD SEVERAL INJURIES. *TR

MOST OF THE 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA CARS DO HAVE A PUSH BUTTON FOR THE IGNITION TO START. IN ORDER TO START THE CAR'S ENGINE, THE DRIVER WOULD NEED TO LIGHTLY PRESS THE BRAKES BEFORE PRESSING THE BUTTON. I PURCHASED THE BRAND-NEW CAR BACK IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AND I AM STILL THE ONLY OWNER. IN FEBRUARY 2014 WITH APPROXIMATELY 38,000 MILES, THE IGNITION STARTED TO STOP WORKING. AFTER A FEW STRUGGLES, THE IGNITION BUTTON WOULD FINALLY ALLOW ME TO START THE ENGINE. THEN THE PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT WORSE. I NOTICED THAT THE BRAKES WOULD SUCK IN SO HARD THAT I WOULD BE UNABLE TO "PRESS" THE BRAKES ANYMORE IN ORDER FOR THE IGNITION BUTTON TO "ENABLE" SO I CAN START THE ENGINE. AT ONE POINT LAST WEEK, THE CAR REFUSED TO START BECAUSE OF THE BRAKES AND I WAS UNABLE TO DO ANYTHING BUT TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND PUSH THE CAR BACK AND FORTH IN THE MIDDLE OF A MCDONALD'S DRIVE-THRU ROUTE IN BALTIMORE, MD. MY ROOMMATE HAD TO TAKE LEAVE IN ORDER TO COME AND HELP ME OUT. AFTER 2 HOURS OF STRUGGLING, WE WERE ABLE TO GET THE "BRAKES LIGHT" ON AND THE IGNITION WOULD FINALLY BECOME ENABLED AND WE WERE ABLE TO START THE ENGINE. WE DROVE STRAIGHT TO THE NISSAN DEALERSHIP IN BOWIE, MD AND TOLD THEM WHAT HAPPENED. NISSAN ABOUT THIS AND THEY ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG MANY DRIVERS AND THAT THE "BRAKE SWITCH" IS CAUSING IT. AT THE END, MY WARRANTY COMPANY HAD TO PAY MORE THAN $800 AND I HAD TO PAY ALMOST $300 OUT OF MY POCKET JUST FOR THIS ISSUE. I RESEARCHED ONLINE AND SAW SO MANY DRIV

NISSAN ALTIMA SEDAN 2010 SL (LEATHER) WITH CVT TRANSMISSION; AFTER DRIVING WITH THE AC ON DURING HEAT WAVE I NOTICED WATER ON DRIVER/PASSENGER FLOOR DRIPPING FROM THE CENTER CONSOLE. I RARELY USE THE AC RATHER HAVE THE WINDOWS OPEN. AFTER RESEARCH ONLINE (THIS SITE AS WELL WITH ANOTHER COMPLAINT) AND BRING TO A NISSAN DEALER THEY INDICATED THE AC (CONDENSATION) DRIP PAN DRAIN/TUBE MAY BE CLOGGED OR THE SUNROOF DRAINS MAY BE CLOGGED. THEY INDICATED THAT THE CABIN AIR FILTER MAY HAVE DEPOSITED DEBRIS AND DIRT INTO THE AC PAN CAUSING IT TO CLOG... NISSAN NEEDS TO FIX THIS PROBLEM OR SEAL THE PAN NEXT TO THE CABIN FILTER SO NOTHING CAN BE TRANSFERRED OR MOVED TO THE FILTER/AREA TO THE NEARBY DRAINS. I PREVIOUSLY HAD THE CABIN FILTER REPLACED BY A REPAIR CENTER SPRING 2013. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 82,000. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

THE DASHBOARD MATERIAL IS MELTING. THERE IS A GLARE ON THE WINDSHIELD NOW MAKING IT HARDER TO SEE. NISSAN REFUSED TO FIX IT. *TR

WE HAVE HAD MANY PROBLEMS WITH OUR CARS CVT TRANSMISSION SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED NEW IN 2010. THE TRANSMISSION, WITHOUT ANY INDICATION, GOES INTO A SAFE MODE WHICH CAUSES THE CAR TO LOOSE ACCELERATION. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO US SEVERAL TIMES,USUALLY AFTER LONG TRIPS (70 MILES OR MORE) AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. IT HAS ALSO HAPPENED IN PARKING LOTS OR JUST STOPPING TO MAKE A TURN. THE CAR HAS BEEN TO THE NISSAN DEALER 2-TIMES AND BOTH TIMES THEY REMOVED OIL,CLAIMING THE EXCESS OIL CAUSED THE TRANSMISSION TO OVERHEAT WHICH PUT IT INTO THE SAFE MODE. ON DEC. 31,2013 WE WERE ON A RETURN TRIP OF 70 MILES OR SO WHEN WE EXITED THE FREEWAY. WE CAME TO A STOP AT A TRAFFIC SIGNAL AND UPON TRYING TO ACCELERATE,THE TRANSMISSION ONCE AGAIN WENT IN THE SAFE MODE,HINDERING OUR ABILITY TO ACCELERATE ACROSS THE INTERSECTION. WE SLOWLY DROVE THE SHORT DISTANCE HOME PARKING THE CAR. IN THE PAST,WE PARKED THE CAR ALLOWING IT TO COOL SO IT WOULD "RESET" BUT THIS TIME THE CAR REMAINED IN THE SAFE MODE THE NEXT DAY. WE HAD IT TOWED TO NISSAN. NISSAN CLAIMS THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND OUR CAR IS READY FOR PICKUP. THIS TRANSMISSION FAILS WITHOUT WARNING AND UPON DOING SO MAKES IT ACCELERATE VERY,VERY SLOWLY WHICH PUTS US IN GRAVE DANGER. I WILL NOT PUT MY GRAND KIDS IN THIS DEATH TRAP NOR DOES MY WIFE WANT TO DRIVE IT. I HAVE SEEN THE MANY,MANY INTERNET COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME CVT PROBLEM. IF I OR MY WIFE GET KILLED TRYING TO CROSS AN INTERSECTION WHEN THIS FAILURE OCCURS,THIS WILL BE THE REASON WH