I BOUGHT THIS CAR USED APPROXIMATELY THREE YEARS AGO AND IT HAS ONLY BEEN DRIVEN AROUND TOWN EXCEPT TO MY HONEYMOON. MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING HOME FROM A FRIENDS HOUSE. SHE CALLED ME AND TOLD ME HER CAR WOULD NOT GO. I WENT TO SEE IF I COULD FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR. AFTER SITTING NOT RUNNING FOR APPROXIMATELY 30 MINUTES, THE CAR WOULD DRIVE AT 35 MPH FOR LESS THAT .5 MILES. I DID THIS FOR THE 10 MILES AND APPROXIMATELY 1.5 HOURS WE ARRIVED AT MY PARENTS HOUSE WHICH WAS THE CLOSEST LOCATION. AFTER SITTING ALL NIGHT, IT DID THE SAME THING. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE HOME IT WOULD ONLY REV THE ENGINE AND YOU COULD CHANGE GEARS WITHOUT ANYTHING HAPPENING TO THE TRANSMISSION. AFTER TAKING IT TO THE MECHANICS, $3600 LATE, THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT MAZDA KNOWS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. THE TRANSMISSION VENDORS FROM WHICH MY NEW ONE WAS BOUGHT TOLD THE MECHANIC, THE PROBLEM IS DUE TO THE TRANSMISSION FLUID BECOMING TO HOT AND NOT BEING ABLE TO COOL DOWN FAST ENOUGH. THANKS MAZDA THIS WILL BE THE LAST OF YOUR PRODUCTS THAT I WILL PURCHASE. *TR
2006 Mazda Tribute complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2006 record →
WHILE DRIVING TO WORK I STARTED TO HEAR A BANGING SOUND FROM THE BACK OF MY VEHICLE. IT SOUNDED LIKE THE BACK WINDOW WAS OPEN & BANGING EVERY TIME I HIT A BUMP. I PULLED OVER AND MADE SURE EVERYTHING WAS SHUT. I PROCEEDED TO WORK BUT THE BANGING PERSISTED. WHEN I GOT TO WORK I CHECKED THE BACK COMPARTMENT & REMOVED MY CARGO INCASE THAT WAS CULPRIT. ON MY DRIVE HOME THE BANGING STILL PERSISTED. MY HUSBAND LOOKED AT THE VEHICLE AND SAID THAT THE SHOCKS/STRUTS WERE BLOWN. I TOOK IT TO THE GARAGE THAT NIGHT & IT TURNS OUT THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR WHEEL WELL WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH & THERE WAS NO WHERE FOR THE SHOCK TO MOUNT. WHEN THE MECHANIC PULLED UP MY CARGO MAT IN THE BACK IT IS AMAZING THAT NOTHING FELL OUT, THE SIZE OF THE HOLE FROM THE RUST IS COMPARABLE TO THE SIZE OF A BASKETBALL. WELDING IS NOT EVEN AN OPTION TO REPAIR THIS DAMAGE. THERE IS NO OTHER RUST OR BODY DAMAGE TO MY VEHICLE. THERE WAS A PROTECTIVE COATING ON THE INNER WHEEL WELL TO PREVENT THIS. THE DRIVER SIDE IS FINE AND IS SHOWING NO SIGN OF RUST/ROT. WHILE SEARCHING THE WEB FOR SUPPORT I SEE THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM IN THE FORD ESCAPE AND MAZDA TRIBUTE (VIRTUALLY ONE IN THE SAME). WHEN WILL SOMETHING BE DONE ABOUT THIS COSTLY PROBLEM? AS A SIDE NOTE, THIS CAR HAS BEEN A PROBLEM SINCE I BOUGHT IT IN 2006. I FILED A MAGNUS AND MOSS WARRANTY ACT SUIT AGAINST MAZDA AND WON FOR NUMEROUS ISSUES REGARDING THE TRANSMISSION AND POWER TRAIN SYSTEM. *JS
ON FEB 14, 2014 MY MAZDA TRIBUTE 2006 WITHOUT ANY WARNING ENGINE FAILURE STALLED ON THE ROAD. ENGINE LIGHT MALFUNCTIONED NO WARNING ABOUT OIL LEVEL. I WAS VERY FORTUNATE THAT THE CAR DID NOT STALL CROSSING THE 26 MILES CAUSEWAY BRIDGE LOCATED IN NEW ORLEANS. I CALLED ROAD SERVICE BROUGHT CAR TO PARETTI MAZDA DEALERSHIP IN METAIRE LOUISIANA. I WAS TREATED EXTREMELY BADLY ALL SERVICE PERSONEL WERE RUDE AND REFUSED TO OFFER ANY OPTIONS ABOUT MY VEHICLE OTHER THAN $6200 FOR ENGINE REPAIR AND NO EXPLAINATION WHY THE ENGINE LIGHT DID NOT WORK. I WAS EVEN OFFER A TRADE TO PURCHASED ANOTHER MAZDA FROM THAT DEALERSHIP. *JS
WHEN DRIVING, THE CAR IS ALL OVER THE ROAD. I HAVE CHANGED THE TIRES, AND IT STILL WAIVERS..ITS LIKE THE STEERING COMPONENT IS LOOSE, OR THE STABILITY CABLE IS LOOSE. STEERING WANDERS BACK AND FORTH AND IT HARD TO CONTAIN EVEN MORE WHEN WINDY. PULLS TO THE RIGHT ALL THE TIME. I HAVE ALSO DONE WHEEL ADJUSTMENTS AND ALIGNINGS, AND DOESN'T HELP. I ONLY HAVE 56,000 ON THE CAR. *TR
AS THE WEATHER GETS COLD, THE GAS PEDAL BECOMES HARDER TO DEPRESS, AND AT TIMES WILL NOT DEPRESS AT ALL. THIS HAS CAUSED NUMEROUS NEAR MISSES WHEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE AROUND A TURN AS THE PEDAL WILL LOCK IN PLACE AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT ACCELERATE AT ALL. IT TAKES SIGNIFICANT FORCE TO DEPRESS THE PEDAL, TO THE POINT OF STOMPING ON IT, AND EVEN THEN IT DOES NOT ALWAYS WORK. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE, ONE THAT WILL AT SOME POINT RESULT IN A VERY SEVERE IF NOT DEADLY CRASH, AND NO ONE SEEMS THE SLIGHTEST BUT INTERESTED IN FIXING THE PROBLEM. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT STATED VEHICLE WOULD SUDDENLY ACCELERATE WITHOUT ANY WARNING. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON SEVEN SEPARATE OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 84,000.
PULLING UP TO PLACE MY ORDER IN A DRIVE THROUGH WITH THE CAR GOING IDLE SPEED WHEN THE BRAKES WERE APPLIED I HEARD THE FRONT BRAKE LINE BLOW CAUSING MY CAR TO LOSE ABILITY TO STOP. UNDERNEATH THE BRAKE LINE WAS A PUDDLE OF BRAKE FLUID. *TR
NOT SURE, BUT THINK THERE IS A LEAK AT THE TRANSFER CASE. IT SMELLS WHEN SITTING FOR A FEW MOMENTS, THERE IS NO OIL LEAKS. *TR
FOR THE PAST YEAR, THE VEHICLE'S ACCELERATOR/GAS PEDAL HAS AT TIMES FELT "STUCK" SO THAT THE DRIVER MUST PRESS DOWN HARDER THAN NORMAL TO ACCELERATE. ORIGINALLY THE DRIVER WAS UNDER THE IMPRESSION THAT THE MAT WAS OBSTRUCTING THE GAS PEDAL'S ABILITY TO BE DEPRESSED. OVER TIME HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE HAS SHOWN AN INCREASED DIFFICULTY IN THE GAS PEDAL BEING DEPRESSED. MOST RECENTLY, ON JANUARY 23, 2014, THE VEHICLE WAS IDLING WHILE IN TRAFFIC. WHEN THE DRIVER ATTEMPTED TO PRESS DOWN ON THE ACCELERATOR, THE GAS PEDAL DID NOT MOVE. THE DRIVER WAS FORCED TO PRESS HARD ON THE ACCELERATOR, AND WHEN DOING SO, THE ACCELERATOR BECAME "STUCK" AND QUICKLY JOLTED THE VEHICLE FORWARD. THE DRIVER HAD TO IMMEDIATELY PRESS DOWN ON THE BRAKE TO AVOID COLLISION WITH THE VEHICLE IN FRONT. THE SPEED AT THE TIME WAS LESS THAN 15 MILES PER HOUR AND THE DRIVER WAS ABLE TO COME TO A STOP AVOIDING COLLISION. SINCE THE INCIDENT ON JANUARY 23, THE VEHICLE'S GAS PEDAL HAS INCREASINGLY SHOWN MORE "STICKING" AND HAS BECOME VERY HARD TO ACCELERATE WITHOUT APPLYING A GREAT AMOUNT OF PRESSURE DOWN ON THE PEDAL. THIS CAUSES CONCERN AS THE VEHICLE QUICKLY ACCELERATES IN A JUMP-LIKE MANNER RATHER THAN SLOWLY ACCELERATING TO A COMFORTABLE DRIVING SPEED. THE 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE IS A 4 CYLINDER AND THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL AT THIS TIME. *TR
IT IS BEEN HAPPENING MORE FREQUENTLY, THE GAS PEDAL STICKS AND CANNOT BE PRESSED DOWN. OCCURED SEVERAL TIMES INCLUDING SOME TIMES WHEN I WAS DRIVING. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL COMPLAINTS FOR THE SAME ISSUE. I'M WORRY ABOUT THIS, IT COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. SOMETHING HAS TO BE DONE!! *TR
MORE FREQUENTLY NOW THE GAS PEDAL STICKS AND CANNOT BE PRESSED DOWN AFTER RELEASING IT FOR A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. IT SEEMS THAT THE THROTTLE CABLE GETS LOCKED IN A SINGLE POSITION AND THEN CANNOT BE MOVED WITHOUT FIRST ALLOWING THE VEHICLE TO SLOW DOWN TO AN UNSAFE SPEED OR UNLESS IT IS PRESSED REALLY HARD. I READ THERE WERE SIMILAR RECALLS TO OTHER MODELS OF THIS VEHICLE BUT NOT MINE. *TR
THIS NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED AND A RECALL ISSUED BY MAZDA. 3,700.00 DOLLARS LATER TO HAVE TRANSMISSION REBUILT. RECALL WAS ISSUED FOR 2001 - 2003 MAZDA TRIBUTE WHY NOT FOR EVERY YEAR THEY ARE USING THE SAME TRANSMISSION CD4E FROM FORD. *TR
2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE S 3.0L 6 CYL. 4X4 RECEIVED THE DREADED NEWS A P0740 CODE ALONG WITH 4 OTHERS ALL DEALING WITH THE TRANSMISSIONO. DRIVING MY CAR CAME TO A RED LIGHT AND VEHICLE WOULD THEN ONLY GO 30 MILES AN HOUR. PLUS WOULD NOT GO IN REVERSE ANYMORE. P0740 DEALS WITH A TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SYSTEM MALFUNCTION, P0720 OUTPUT SHAFT SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION AND SOME OTHERS DEALING WITH A SPEED CABLE, ETC.... APPEARS MAZDA TRIBUTE'S HAVE THIS KNOW PROBLEM AND MAZDA IS DOING NOTHING ABOUT IT. THIS NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED MORE AND A RECALL ISSUED BY MAZDA FOR ALL YEARS ON THIS VEHICLE. MAINTENANCE WOULD DONE ON THE TRANSMISSION AT THE RIGHT INTERVALS AND THIS SHOULDN'T HAVE HAPPEN. TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS CHECK BY THE REPAIR SHOP AND THEY SAID NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE FLUIDS. NOTICE MAZDA ISSUED A RECALL FOR THIS VEHICLE BUT ONLY FOR 2000 - 2003 YEARS I BELIEVE. AFTER RESEARCHING THIS PROBLEM, I NOTICE A LOT OF PEOPLE WERE HAVING TO GET THEIR TRANSMISSION OVERHAULED. KNEW I SHOULD OF STUCK WITH A FORD BECAUSE NO TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS WITH THEIR VEHICLES. ALL FORDS HAVE OVER 160000 MILES ON THEM. PLUS ONE A 2003 FORD F250 SUPER DUTY HAS OVER 218,000 MILES ON IT. NEED TO GET MAZDA TO ISSUE A RECALL ON THIS VEHICLE FOR THEIR TRANSMISSION BECAUSE IT APPEARS TO BE AN ISSUE WITH IT. *TR
JUST BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM A USED DEALERSHIP IN MILWAUKEE, WI. I HAVE A 90 DAY WARRANTY ON THE CAR. IN UNDER 30 DAYS THE ENGINE HAS LOCKED UP ON THIS TRUCK. I WAS GOING AT LEAST 10/15 MPH TURNING INTO THE BANK WHEN THE WHEEL LOCKED UP, THE ENGINE AND OIL LIGHT CAME ON, AND THE TRUCK SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. IT WOULD NOT START AFTER THAT. FINALLY, AFTER IT DID START THERE IS A HORRIBLE KNOCKING. PROBABLY THREW A ROD..... MOST HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE I'VE EVER HAD WITH A VEHICLE, AND THIS IS MY FIRST NEWER CAR!!!! MY OLD 2000 CHEVY IMPALA WITH 200,000 MILES ON IT DROVE LIKE A CHAMP! TOO BAD I SOLD IT NOT MORE THAN AN HOUR BEFORE MY NEW CAR WENT KAPUT! *TR
ABS WARNING LIGHT WENT ON INDICATING ANTI LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM NOT WORKING. SAME THING HAPPENED 09/13/10 WHILE CAR STILL COVERED BY FIVE YEAR WARRANTY. ROTO MAZDA OF ARLINGTON HEIGHTS, IL DID WARRANTY REPAIR AND REASSURED ME THAT THE OTHER THREE ABS SENSORS WERE CHECKED AND THE PROBLEM SHOULD NOT RECUR. MY RESEARCH ON THE INTERNET SHOWS THIS HAS BEEN A COMMON PROBLEM FOR MANY MAZDA TRIBUTES ALL THE WAY BACK TO 2000 AND UP THROUGH 2006 OR EVEN LATER. THERE IS NO REASON FOR THESE ANTI LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEMS TO FAIL SO QUICKLY AND SO OFTEN. MY FIRST FAILURE IN 2010 OCCURRED WHEN ODOMETER MILEAGE WAS BELOW 15,000. *TR
WHILE ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, THE GAS PEDAL WILL GET STUCK IN THE UPWARD POSITION NOT ALLOWING THE CAR TO ACCELERATE. IT HAS HAPPENED PERIODICALLY THROUGHOUT THE DURATION OF OWNERSHIP, BUT HAS BECOME MORE PROMINENTLY IN THE RECENT YEAR OR SO. THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS APPROXIMATELY 107K MILES BUT HAS OCCURRED AT MUCH LOWER MILEAGE. THERE HAS BEEN NO RECALL POSTED, BUT MANY OTHERS HAVE SHARED CONCERN. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY RISK ESPECIALLY WHEN MERGING ONTO HIGHWAYS OR ACCELERATING IN TRAFFIC. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT DURING COLD WEATHER OF 32 DEGREES OR BELOW, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL COULD NOT BE DEPRESSED AND HE WOULD HAVE TO PUMP THE PEDAL PERIODICALLY BEFORE THE VEHICLE WOULD RESPOND. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THEY ADVISED THAT THEY WOULD TRY CLEANING THE THROTTLE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE RECURRED IMMEDIATELY AFTER HAVING THE THROTTLE CLEANED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 65,000. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 104,000. *TR UPDATED 05/08/13*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED WHEN THE FAILURE OCCURRED THE VEHICLE WOULD LUNGE FORWARD. UPDATED 05/22/2013 *JS
I WAS YIELDING AND WENT TO ACCELERATE TO MERGE INTO TRAFFIC AND THE PEDAL GOT STUCK I HAD TO SLAM ON BRAKES TO GET THE CAR TO SLOW DOWN, WHEN IT DIDN'T I STARTED PUMPING THE GAS PEDAL AND IT CAME UNSTUCK. RECENTLY IT HAS BEEN STICKING ALOT, WHEN I FIRST TRY TO ACCELERATE I PUSH THE PEDAL AND IT APPEARS THEIR IS SOME SORT OF CATCH THERE I HAVE TO SLAM IT DOWN TO GET PEDAL TO WORK OFTEN..I COME TO A STOP AND WHEN I GO TO PUSH THE PEDAL IT FEELS HARD TO PUSH..I GOOGLED THE PROBLEM AND SAW TONS OF RECALLS ON THIS BUT WHEN I CALLED AND GAVE THEM THE VIN NUMBER THEY SAID IT WASN'T INCLUDED. I HAD IT WASHED TODAY AND WHEN THE GUY WASHING IT BROUGHT IT BACK HE MENTIONED TO ME THAT THE GAS PEDAL KEPT STICKING..HE SAID I NEEDED TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT. I PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE SOONER BUT I NEVER DROVE IT...THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I THOUGHT THAT I JUST HIT THE PEDAL THE WRONG WAY BUT IT HAS STUCK OVER 10 TIMES SINCE THEN. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 50 MPH, SHE CRASHED INTO THE REAR OF ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. NO ONE WAS INJURED AND THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE SECOND VEHICLE DID NOT SUSTAIN ANY VISIBLE DAMAGES. THE POLICE WERE NOTIFIED AND A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED WHO OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 96,000.
I OWN A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE 4 CYLINDER. WHEN THE WEATHER CHANGES AND IT GETS TO BE ABOUT 40 DEGREES OR LOWER MY GAS PEDAL STICKS! I AM UNABLE TO PRESS THE PEDAL DOWN. THIS IS VERY SCARY AND I BELIEVE IT CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU ARE AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT YOU ARE NOT SURE IF THE GAS PEDAL GONNA WORK. THEN WHEN YOU PRESS THE GAS AFTER MANY TIMES OF TRYING AND IT FINALLY WORKS YOU ACCELERATE TO MUCH AND CAN HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF YOU. PLEASE CHECK INTO THIS MATTER AS I FEEL IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND CAN BECOME A LIABILITY TO MAZDA. *TR
ACCELERATOR STICKS AND WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO PRESS THE GAS PEDAL. THIS HAPPENED IN TRAFFIC AND HAD TO IDLE OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER 12V357000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING) BUT WAS UNABLE TO HAVE THE VEHICLE SERVICED BECAUSE THE REMEDY PART WOULD NOT BECOME AVAILABLE UNTIL MID AUGUST OF 2012. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND THEY INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS A DELAY FOR THE REMEDY PART UNTIL NOVEMBER OF 2012. THE CONTACT BELIEVED THAT THE RECALL HAD EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE.
VEHICLE TRAVELING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY OF MAJOR METROPOLITAN CITY WHEN SMOKE FROM ENGINE BROUGHT VEHICLE AND TRAFFIC TO STANDSTILL. TWO FIRE TRUCKS AND POLICE RESPONDED. OIL FOUND SPRAYED ON HIGHWAY AND THROUGHOUT ENGINE COMPARTMENT, WITH TOTAL LOSS OF ENGINE OIL. VEHICLE TAKEN TO DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR DIAGNOSIS. PER DEALERSHIP REPORT, OIL LEAK FOUND EMANATING FROM A LARGE GAPING HOLE ON BOTTOM OF ENGINE BLOCK (V6) WHERE IT APPEARS CYLINDER ROD #5 DISCONNECTED AND WENT THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE BLOCK AND RUPTURED THE OIL FILTER, RELEASING ALL ENGINE OIL CONTENT. ENGINE CONSIDERED BLOWN BY DEALERSHIP AND GIVEN OUT OF WARRANTY, AN $8500 ENGINE REPLACEMENT IS REQUIRED AT THE TOTAL EXPENSE OF THE OWNER GIVEN THE VEHICLE IS BEYOND THE 36,000 MILE ENGINE WARRANTY PERIOD, AND THEREFORE MAZDA IS NOT RESPONSIBLE. DRIVER EXPERIENCED MAJOR TRAUMA, SMOKE INHALATION IN COMPARTMENT, AND TRAFFIC BACKED UP ON INTERSTATE CAUSING MAJOR DELAYS OF PEOPLE TO THE LOCAL INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT. MAZDA UNRESPONSIVE FOR ISSUE AND REPAIR. VEHICLE ENGINE WAS EXTENSIVELY TESTED BY THE STATE'S DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES IN MAY 2012 FOR MANDATORY EMISSION TESTING, AND PASSED ALL TESTING STANDARDS, AND DOCUMENTED. OWNER WILL NOW JUNK VEHICLE THAT WAS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION GIVEN EXTENSIVE DAMAGE AND AT TOTAL LOSS TO THE OWNER. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT STATED AFTER RECEIVING THE NOTICE FOR RECALL NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER 12V357000 (VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL CABLES) THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO DISCONNECTED THE CRUISE CONTROL CABLE BUT THE DEALER DID NOT PROVIDE THE NEW REDESIGNED HOUSING COVER. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE RECALL REPAIR EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 78,376 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 80,100.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 12V357000 (VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL:CABLES) AND TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR RECALL SERVICE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED ANY FAILURES OF THE SPEED CONTROL CABLE HOWEVER, HE WAS DISSATISFIED WITH THE REMEDY WHICH WAS TO DEACTIVATE THE CRUISE CONTROL IF THE NECESSARY PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. UPDATED 11/13/12 *CN THE CONSUMER STATED 10/31/2012 THE PART WAS STILL UNAVAILABLE. THE CONSUMER RECIEVED A PHOTO ENFORCEMENT TICKET BECAUSE OF THIS FAILURE. UPDATED 11/29/2012 *JS
MY GAS PEDAL STICKS WHEN MY VEHICLE GETS COLD. I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE ABOUT A YEAR AGO USED AND WHEN THE TEMPERATURE DROPPED THE GAS PEDAL WOULD STICK. I WOULD BE IN TRAFFIC AND THE VEHICLE WOULD GO NOWHERE WHEN PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL. THIS HAS OCCURRED MANY TIMES. THEY SAID THERE IS A RECALL ON THE 2006 BUT 6 CY, I HAVE A 4 CY THAT THE SAME PROBLEM IS OCCURRING. I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE THIS VEHICLE INCLUDED IN THE RECALL AS WELL, BECAUSE APPARENTLY IT IS HAPPENING TO THE 4 CY AS WELL. *TR
I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE FREEWAY AT 65 MPH WHEN THE CAR STARTED JERKING AND THREATENING TO STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FREEWAY. THE "O/D OFF" LIGHT STARTED FLASHING ON THE CONSOLE. I PULLED OFF AT THE NEXT EXIT AND THE LIGHT STOPPED FLASHING AND THE CAR STOPPED JERKING. THE MINUTE I GOT BACK ON THE FREEWAY IT STARTED AGAIN. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE MECHANIC AND AFTER CLOSER INSPECTION AND REPAIR IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE CLUTCH WAS BURNED OUT IN THIRD GEAR. THE COST OF REPAIR TO THE TUNE OF APPROXIMATELY $2000.00 AND FOUR BUSINESS DAYS LATER. I HAVE ONLY HAD THE CAR SINCE THE END OF JULY 2011. NO WARNING SIGNS, NOTHING TO INDICATE A PROBLEM WAS OCCURRING. *TR
HAVE A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE 4CYL, AND AM HAVING SPEED CONTROL ISSUES WHEN THE WEATHER IS COLD. THE GAS PEDAL STICKS AND WILL NOT DEPRESS, EVEN WHEN BEING STOMPED ON. THIS ISSUE OCCURS WHEN THE TEMPERATURE DROPS BELOW 40 DEGREES. IT HAS HAPPENED WHEN COMING AROUND A CORNER, OR WHEN DRIVING IN REGULAR TRAFFIC, FORCING ME TO COAST TO THE SHOULDER, ALMOST CAUSING ACCIDENTS. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS MODEL AS WELL FOR A RECALL RELATING TO THIS ISSUE. THANK YOU *TR
MY MOTHER WAS DRIVING DOWN THE STREET ON HER WAY HOME AND ALL OF A SUDDEN SHE ENDED UP ONE THE GRASS OF THE MEDIA AND THEN ACROSS THE STREET AND THEN BACK UP ON THE GRASS OF THE MEDIA AND INTO A LIGHT POLE WHERE SHE DIED. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. WHILE EXAMINING THE VEHICLE THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE SEAT BUCKLE LATCH WAS DETACHED FROM THE SEAT BELT BUCKLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE REPAIR COULD NOT BE MADE DUE TO THE PARTS BEING ON BACK ORDER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 77,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.
WHEN THE AIR TEMP IS BELOW 60 DEGREES, THE ACCELERATOR STICKS UPON ACCELERATION. ONCE THIS HAPPENS, THE GAS PEDAL CANNOT BE DEPRESSED UNLESS YOU EXERT EXTREME FORCE ON IT WITH YOUR FOOT. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS IF YOU NEED TO ACCELERATE TO CROSS TRAFFIC OR SIMILAR TYPE OF SITUATION. ONCE THE ENGINE WARMS UP, OR IF THE AIR TEMP WARMS UP ABOVE 60 DEGREES, THE PROBLEM WILL NOT OCCUR. *TR
2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. RUNS FINE DURING WARM WEATHER. AT THE SLIGHTEST OUTBREAK OF COLD WEATHER, ACCELERATOR DOES NOT DEPRESS, UNABLE TO GET ANY POWER FROM THE ENGINE. WILL FREEZE UP AT TIMES WHILE DRIVING OR NOT WORK AT ALL. HAS BEEN DOING THIS FOR YEARS, MAZDA REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE PROBLEM. HAS ALMOST CAUSED NUMEROUS ACCIDENTS WHEN ACCELERATING AROUND A TURN DUE TO LOSS OF POWER. MAZDA HAS RECALLED PREVIOUS MODEL YEARS FOR THIS PROBLEM BUT WILL NOT RECALL THIS MODEL. PLEASE CHANGE THAT. *TR
TRIBUTE GAS PEDAL IS LOCKING (STICKING) AND UNABLE TO BE PRESSED. THIS PROBLEM HAS OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES LATELY THE LATEST BEING THIS MORNING WHILE TAKING MY CHILD TO SCHOOL TRYING TO GO UP A HILL I WAS UNABLE TO PRESS THE GAS PEDAL WHICH I HAD TO ABRUPTLY PULL OVER NEARLY CAUSING AN ACCIDENT AND SCARING MY CHILD AND MYSELF. THIS IS OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY AND THUS BECOMING MORE HAZARDOUS. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM, IT GOING TO CAUSE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT OR FATALITY. *TR
I WAS AT A STOPLIGHT, AND STARTED TO HIT THE GAS, BUT NOTHING HAPPENED. THE CAR WOULD NOT GO INTO GEAR. I FINALLY GOT THE CAR TO WORK FOR ABOUT 200 FEET, AND THEN THE SAME THING HAPPENED. I STARTED MY CAR AGAIN, AND AGAIN IT WENT FOR 200 FEET BEFORE STORPPING AND STALLING. I TOOK THE CAR TO A MECHANIC WHO INFORMED ME THAT MY TRANSMISSON HAD FAILED, AND THERE IS A HIGH FAILURE RATE WITH MY CAR AND ITS TRANSMISSION. I DID RESEARCH ONLINE, AND DISCOVERED SEVERAL MAZDA OWNERS WITH THE SAME ISSUE. *TT
NEEDED AN OVERHAUL OF THE TRANSMISSION. INTERNAL DAMAGE WAS DONE YET THE CAR ISN'T OLD. THE MECHANICS SAID THEY HAD A TRIBUTE 2006 WITH THE SAME EXACT ISSUE, AND THEN ANOTHER SHOP NEXT CITY OVER HAD AGAIN ANOTHER TRIBUTE SAME ISSUE. WHEN I'D DRIVE IT WOULD NO LONGER STAY IN GEAR UNTIL I TURNED IT OFF AND LET IT SIT A WHILE THEN WOULD GO AGAIN.
ON 2/10/11 MY SON WAS IN AN ACCIDENT WITH OUR 2006 MADZA TRIBUTE. THE GAS PEDAL WOULD STICK EVERY NOW AND THEN, AND THE ONLY WAY TO RELEASE IT WAS TO PUSH DOWN ON IT WITH YOU FOOT AND IT WOULD RESUME. UNFORTUNTLY, HE WAS DRIVING ON THE I-5 FREEWAY NEAR GRANTS PASS, OREGON WHEN IT STUCK AND HE LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. HE HIT A SEMI TRUCK, THEN A 2ND SEMI TRUCK, AND WAS CITED FOR RECKLESS DRIVING, ALTHOUGH DRIVING THE LEGAL SPEED LIMIT ON DRY PAVEMENT. MY SON IS 31. THE STATE POLICE GAVE HIM A BLOOD TEST FOR ALLEGED DRIVING UNDER THE INFLUENCE, BUT IT CAME UP NEGATIVE. HE IS SUFFERING MUSCULAR INJURIES AS IS HIS GIRLFRIEND WHO WAS A PASSENGER IN THE VEHICLE. THE GAS PEDAL STICKING WOULD HAPPEN A COUPLE OF TIMES A MONTH, JUST OFF AND ON, AND I CURRENTLY ONLY WORK PART TIME SINCE LOOSING MY FULL TIME EMPLOYMENT THIS PAST JUNE (2010). THE VEHICLE IS TOTALED AS A RESULT OF THE ACCIDENT. I AM NOW WITHOUT TRANSPORTATION AND HAVE TO PURCHASE A REPLACEMENT VEHICLE, AND/OR HAVE REPAIRED AN OLD CAR I HAVE SITTING AT HOME. I WONDER IF OTHER MADZA TRIBUTES ARE HAVING THIS PROBLEM. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR
I HAVE SEVERAL PROBLEMS WITH MY MAZDA TRIBUTE 4 CYLINDER 2WD. THE #1 PROBLEM IS THAT THE GAS PEDDLE FREEZES ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S COLD OUTSIDE. I TRY TO PRESS DOWN ON IT AND IT DOESN'T MOVE. I HAVE TO DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES BEFORE IT STARTS WORKING AND THEN I HAVE TO BE CAREFUL THAT I DON'T GO SHOOTING ACROSS THE RODE. I WAS TOLD THIS COULD BE CARBON BUILDUP BY THE DEALERS SERVICEMAN. I ALSO HAVE TO PUT AIR IN THE TIRES EVERY WEEK WHEN IT'S COLD AND EVERY OTHER WEEK WHEN IT'S NOT. I HAD A TIRE PRESSURE VALVE LEAK IN ONE OF THE TIRES AND NOW I THINK I HAVE ANOTHER. MY VEHICLE HAS 54440 MILES ON IT AND THE FURTHER IT HAS BEEN DRIVEN IS 36 MILES. IT IS USED FOR LOCAL DRIVING ONLY AS I WOULD BE AFRAID TO DRIVE IT ANY FURTHER THAN THAT. I ALSO NEED FRONT STABILIZER LINKS. I JUST REPLACED THE BATTERY BUT NOW WHEN I TRY TO START THE VEHICLE, EVERYTHING LIGHTS UP BUT IT DOESN'T START OR MAKE ANY SOUND WHEN I TURN THE KEY. I HAVE TO TRY THIS SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE IT FINALLY STARTS. I BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE NEW AND I HAVE ALL THESE PROBLEMS. THE FRONT WHEEL DRIVE IS WORTHLESS, I SLIDE ALL OVER THE PLACE AND FISH TAIL BACKING UP IN MY DRIVEWAY. THESE PROBLEMS ARE SEVERAL TIMES A DAY AND I DON'T HAVE THE MONEY TO KEEP FIXING THESE PROBLEMS BECAUSE THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE HAVING THESE PROBLEMS. I WAS TOLD THAT THE TIRES MAY NEED THE RIMS CLEANED TO HELP WITH THE TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT COMING ON. OF COURSE MY WARRANTY IS EXPIRED AS IS MY ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE. I WOULDN'T BUY ANOTHER MAZDA TRIB
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS SHE NOTICED THAT THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WOULD STICK AND THE VEHICLE WOULD ACCELERATE TO HIGHER SPEEDS. IN ORDER TO STOP THE VEHICLE SHE WOULD RELEASE HER FOOT FROM THE PEDAL AND TRY TO KICK IT UNTIL IT RETURNED TO THE NORMAL POSITION. THE VEHICLE WAS INSPECTED BY A DEALER WHO STATED THAT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.
WHILE PASSING A SLOWER VEHICLE ON A TWO LANE ROAD, THE MAZDA TRIBUTE'S ACCELERATOR STUCK. I LET OFF THE GAS AT 65MPH BUT THE ENGINE CONTINUED TO ACCELERATE TO OVER 4000 RPM AND 85 MPH. THE BRAKES DID LITTLE TO SLOW THE CAR(I GOT IT DOWN TO 80MPH). TRYING TO RAISE OR MOVE THE GAS PEDDLE DID NOTHING TO CHANGE THE SPEED. I WAS ABLE TO SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL GEAR AND AS THE CAR SLOWED DOWN, I APPLIED THE HAND (EMERGENCY) BRAKE AND PULLED OFF THE ROAD ONTO A WIDE SHOULDER. STARTING THE ENGINE AGAIN LATER, IT STARTED AT THE PREVIOUS HIGH RPM'S. I CALLED FOR A TOW TRUCK AND DID NOT DRIVE IT FURTHER .I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL SUDDENLY ACCELERATING FOR AN INSTANT BEFORE RETURNING TO NORMAL SETTINGS. THIS HAS BEEN ERRATIC AND CANNOT BE REPRODUCED FOR THE SERVICE DEPARTMENTS. TWO WEEKS AGO, THE CRUISE CONTROL STARTED DROPPING OUT (TURNS OFF) WITH OUT WARNING. THE DEALER COULD NOT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM., BUT REPLACED A SWITCH WITHOUT ANY EFFECT. *TR
MY GAS PEDAL GETS STUCK..HELP!! I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK. I PUT MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL AND IT WAS STUCK. I QUICKLY PUSHED THE BRAKE AND WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER. I REMEMBER HEARING ABOUT THIS SO I PULLED UP MY CARPET THINKING IT MIGHT BE THAT. I STARTED BACK ON MY WAY TO WORK AND THE PEDAL WAS "STICKY". AFTER WORK I WAS TRYING TO PULL OUT OF MY PARKED SPOT. MY GAS PEDAL GOT STUCK AGAIN. MY CAR WAS ACCELERATING ON ITS' OWN. I TRIED THE BRAKE IT WOULD NOT HELP. I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND IT SLOWED DOWN. I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO STOP THE CAR. I GOT OUT OF THE CAR TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON AND COULD NOT FIGURE IT OUT. I GOT BACK IN THE CAR AND TRIED AGAIN, IT WAS STILL STUCK. THIS WAS SO BAD BECAUSE NOT ONLY WAS IT DANGEROUS FOR ME, I AM A TEACHER AND THE STUDENTS WALK THROUGH THE PARKING LOT ALL THE TIME. IT WAS DANGEROUS FOR EVERYONE. I CALLED THE MAZDA DEALER ( I HAVE A 2006 TRIBUTE) ASKING IF THERE WAS A RECALL, THEY SAID NO. I CAME HOME AND FOUND THAT MANY PEOPLE HAD THIS SAME PROBLEM (THE FORD ESCAPE IS THE SAME AS MY CAR) THEIR GAS PEDAL GETS STUCK!!! THIS IS HORRIBLE, COMMON, AND DANGEROUS. *TR
I AM A TEACHER. I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK. I PUT MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDDLE AND IT WAS STUCK. I QUICKLY PUSHED THE BREAK, PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER. I REMEMBER HEARING ABOUT THIS WITH TOYOTAS SO I PULLED UP MY CARPET THINKING IT MIGHT BE THAT. I STARTED BACK ON MY WAY TO WORK AND THE PEDDLE WAS NOT STUCK AT THIS POINT BUT STILL "STICKY". I REALIZED IT WAS NOT THE CARPET AT ALL, THE PEDAL WAS THE ISSUE! AFTER WORK I WAS TRYING TO PULL OUT OF MY PARKED SPOT. MY GAS PEDAL GOT STUCK AGAIN. MY CAR WAS ACCELERATING ON ITS' OWN. I TRIED THE BRAKE IT WOULD NOT HELP. I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND IT SLOWED DOWN. I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO STOP THE CAR. I GOT OUT OF THE CAR TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON AND COULD NOT FIGURE IT OUT. I GOT BACK IN THE CAR AND TRIED AGAIN, IT WAS STILL STUCK. THIS WAS SO BAD BECAUSE NOT ONLY WAS IT DANGEROUS FOR ME, I AM A TEACHER AND THE STUDENTS WALK THROUGH THE PARKING LOT ALL THE TIME. IT WAS DANGEROUS FOR EVERYONE. I CALLED THE MAZDA DEALER ( I HAVE A 2006 TRIBUTE) ASKING IF THERE WAS A RECALL, THEY SAID NO. I CAME HOME AND FOUND THAT MANY PEOPLE HAD THIS SAME PROBLEM (THE FORD ESCAPE IS THE SAME AS MY CAR) THEIR GAS PEDDLE GETS STUCK!!! THIS IS HORRIBLE, COMMON, AND DANGEROUS. *TR
MY 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE HAS BEEN EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS WITH THE ACCELERATOR STICKING IN THE IDLE POSITION. THIS EVENING THE PEDAL WOULD NOT BUDGE AT ALL LEAVING THE VEHICLE IN IDLE AND ME STRANDED. I AM CONCERNED THAT THIS PEDAL PROBLEM MAY CAUSE ME TO ACCELERATE SUDDENLY IF I PUSH VERY HARD ON THE PEDAL.
WHEN VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUNNING FOR LESS THAN 10 MINUTES THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WILL NOT DEPRESS UNLESS UNUSUAL AMOUNT OF FORCE OR TAPPING OF PEDAL IS USED.*TR
THE GAS PEDAL STICKS ON A DAILY BASIS. *TR
2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE GAS PEDAL STICKS IN COLD WEATHER TO THE POINT WHERE THE CAR WILL NO GO ANYWHERE. I ALWAYS WARM MY CAR UP HOWEVER, NOTHING PREVENTS THIS FROM HAPPENING AND I AM WORRIED THAT IF I STOP IN TRAFFIC AND START I WILL BE IN A MAJOR ACCIDENT. *TR
ACCELERATION PEDAL STUCK IN THE DOWN POSITION UNTIL STOMPING ON IT WHICH CAUSES THE CAR TO ACCELERATE QUICKLY. THIS HAS OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE LAST FEW DAYS AND I READ ONLINE THAT IT HAPPENS TO MANY OTHER MAZDA TRIBUTE OWNERS. *TR
BRAKE FAILURE, BRAKE PEDAL GOES DOWN TO THE FLOOR. HAPPENED OUT OF NO WERE. BRAKE PADS AND DRUMS ARE IN GOOD SHAPE DO NOT NEED TO BE REPLACED. REPLACED MASTER CYLINDER AND LEFT WHEEL CYLINDER DUE TO BLEEDER BROKER. NEITHER OF THESE HAVE RESOLVED PROBLEM. VEHICLE STILL NOT REPAIRED ISSUE UNKNOWN. *TR
I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF A 2006 TRIBUTE. AT JUST UNDER 50,000 MILES THE ABS LIGHT CAME ON AND THE 4WD STARTED FLASHING. THE DEALERSHIP SAID IT WAS THE RING ON ONE OF THE FRONT AXLES. TURNS OUT IT WAS THE PASSENGER SIDE. NOW, JUST LAST MONTH, AT ABOUT 70,000 MILES THE LIGHTS AND FLASHING STARTED AGAIN. THIS TIME IT WAS THE DRIVER SIDE AXLE THAT WENT BAD. WE HAVE ALSO HAD TO REPLACE BOTH U-JOINTS. EVEN WORSE, THE AREA DEALERSHIPS SAID WE NEEDED TO BUY THE ENTIRE DRIVE SHAFTS TO FIX THE PROBLEM; THEY'RE ABOUT $800 EACH BECAUSE MAZDA DOES NOT CARRY JUST THE U-JOINTS. THE FIRST PARTS STORE WE CALLED HAD THEM IN STOCK AND THEY WERE $23 FOR BOTH. *TR
BRAKE ROTOR FAILURE (ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT) ON A VEHICLE WITH A LITTLE OVER 60K MILES. REAR ROUTERS FOUND NOT ONLY UNABLE TO BE "TURNED", BUT WERE ADVISED NEEDED TO BE REPLACED FOR SAFETY REASONS. WAS ADVISED THAT FRONT ROUTERS WERE ALSO WEARING EXCEPTIONALLY FAST. I LIVE IN A MOSTLY FLAT PART OF THE COUNTRY AND DRIVE MOSTLY HIGHWAY MILES. *TR
GAS PEDAL ON 2006 MAZDA TRIBUTE STICKS. SOMETIMES YOU PRESS AND NOTHING HAPPENS AND THEN IT WILL TAKE OFF AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED. I HAVE HAD SEVERAL NEAR MISSES WITH OTHER VEHICLES IN FRONT OF ME DUE TO THIS. I HAD THE GAS PEDAL REPLACED ONCE UNDER WARRANTY LESS THAN 2 YEARS AGO (MARCH 2008) AND NOW HAVE THE PROBLEM AGAIN BUT MAZDA TOLD ME THAT THEY WILL NOT REPLACE IT AGAIN UNLESS I PAY FOR IT EVEN THOUGH IT'S A RECURRING PROBLEM. I THINK THIS HAS TO BE A DESIGN ISSUE GIVEN THE RECURRENCE BUT MAZDA WON'T TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR IT AND IN FACT DEMANDS PAYMENT EVEN TO ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM.
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NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
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