2014 Mazda Mazda6 complaints

FOW (FORWARD OBSTRUCTION WARNING) INSPECTION REQUIRED FLASHES ON DASH AS IF A LOOSE CONNECTION. ONLY FLASHES FOR ABOUT 3 SECONDS THEN GOES AWAY. I MANUALLY TURNED OFF FOW TO STOP THE FLASHING. BUT WILL TURN BACK ON ONCE I RESTART THE CAR. THE CRUISE CONTROL OFF/ON SWITCH SEEMS TO AFFECT THE WARNING FLASHES AS WELL. ONCE THE CAR WARMS UP, THINGS SEEM NORMAL. DURING DRIVING THIS EFFECTS THE CRUISE CONTROL AND SYSTEM OVERALL. HAPPENS EVERY TIME I START THE CAR AND START DRIVING

WHEN PLACING THE CAR IN PARK AND PRESSING THE PUSH START/STOP, THE CAR WILL NOT TURN COMPLETELY OFF. I HAVE TO REPEATEDLY PLACE THE GEAR IN ALL DNRP SEVERAL TIMES(5 OR MORE) BEFORE THE CAR REALIZES IT IS FULLY IN PARK AND ALL POWER TURNS COMPLETELY OFF. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO DO THIS IN ORDER TO TURN THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY OFF. THE VEHICLE IS IN STOP POSITION AND IN PARK. THE VEHICLE WILL NOT POWER ALL THE WAY OFF. LEAVING THE RADIO AND LIGHTS ON AND DISABLES THE ABILITY TO LOCK THE DOORS OR SET THE ALARM.

VEHICLE STALLS OUT WHILE DRIVING AT NORMAL HIGHWAY SPEED, 65 MPH. LIGHTS ALL COME ON ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. HAS BEEN DOING THIS MORE OFTEN NOW. MENTIONED IT TO BERGE MAZDA IN AZ WHEN TAKEN IN FOR SERVICE.

WHEN PLACING THE CAR IN PARK AND PUSHING THE OFF/ON BUTTON AN ERROR MESSAGE WILL APPEAR SAYING THE VEHICLE MUST BE IN PARK WHEN IT IS AND SHOWS THAT ON THE DASHBOARD AND BY LOOKING AT THE GEAR SHIFTER. THE ONLY WAY TO FIX IT SO YOU CAN TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY TO THE ACCESSORIES AND BE ABLE TO LOCK YOUR CAR IS TO START IT AGAIN, PUT IT INTO A DIFFERENT GEAR, AND TRY AGAIN. SOMETIMES IT WILL WORK ONE THE SECOND ATTEMPT BUT MOST TIMES IT TAKES 4 ATTEMPTS FOR ME TO GET IT TO RECOGNIZE THAT IT'S IN PARK.

WITH NO CONSISTANCEY, THE CAR WOULD LOOSE POWER. AT TIMES, I THOUGHT THE CAR WOULD LOOSE FULL POWER, IN THE MIDDLE OF MY COMMUTE, I WOULD BE FORCED TO PULL OVER AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. MOST TIMES, THE CAR WOULD RETURN TO NORMAL CONDITIONS. WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN FOR REPAIR, BYERS MAZDA OF COLUMBUS, TOLD ME IT NEEDED A TUNE-UP. ONCE AGAIN, THE CAR ALMOST STALLED OUT AND I MANAGED TO COAST INTO A PARKING SPACE. NOW THE SAME DEALERSHIP IS INFORMING ME FOR THE FIRST TIME THAT THE CAR HAS AN I-LOOP SYSTEM AND THE BATTERY THAT SHOULD HAVE LASTED FIVE YEARS, NOW LESS THAN THE 3 YEARS OLD, NEEDS TO BE REPLACED FOR OVER $500.00. I BOUGHT THIS CAR USED WITH AN EXTENDED WARRANTY AND ALTHOUGH IT WAS MY MISTAKE, THE DEALERSHIP NEVER DISCLOSED THE I-LOOP SYSTEM AND THE PROBLEMS THAT GO WITH IT. THIS I-LOOP BATTERY WILL APPARENTLY LAST 2-3 YEARS ONLY AND IS VERY EXPENSIVE. I GUESS IT IS LEGAL FOR DEALERSHIP SALES REPS TO MISREPRESENT THE CAR MAINTENANCE BECAUSE THEY SAY IT IS MY RESPONSIBILITY TO KNOW WHAT I PURCHASED. I WILL NEVER BUY FROM BYERS AUTO FOR ANY MODEL CAR!

FOW INSPECTION LIGHT COMES ON WHEN GOING ABOVE 55 MPH. CRUISE [XXX] OFF AND BRAKES ARE PRESSED. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

MY CAR'S E-BRAKE IS NOT FUNCTIONING SINCE I HAVE THE CAR!

I COULD NOT IGNITE MY CAR DUE TO A DEAD BATTERY IN A WINTER NIGHT!

THE FRONT SUSPENSION MAKES A CLUNKING NOISE OCCASIONALLY WHEN MOVING RIGHT AFTER STARTUP AND SOMETIMES AFTER STARTING FROM A STOP (USUALLY ONLY NEAR THE START OF A DRIVE). IT ALSO OCCASSIONALLY MAKES A CLUNKING NOISE WHEN HITTING A POTHOLE/SPEED BUMP. THIS SEEMS TO BE THE SAME THING AS RECORDED IN THE MAZDA SERVICE BULLETIN 02-010/16 AND SUGGEST POSSIBLY MAKING IT A RECALL INSTEAD OF A SERVICE BULLETIN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CONTACT POWERED OFF THE ENGINE. ONCE RESTARTED, THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO DRIVE NORMALLY. THE FAILURE RECURRED TWICE AND THE ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING, BUT A FAILURE CODE COULD NOT BE FOUND. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO D. DAHLE MAZDA OF MURRAY (LOCATED AT 4595 STATE ST, MURRAY, UT 84107, (801) 266-0033), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 46,000. *TT UPDATED 10/10/18*JB

MY VEHICLE WILL NOT TURN OFF COMPLETELY OFF WHEN I PARK IT. THE ENGINE WILL STOP BUT ALL THE PANELS AND RADIO WILL CONTINUE TO GO. SOMETIMES I HAVE HAD TO TRY FOR OVER 20 MINUTES TO GET IT TO SHUT COMPLETELY DOWN. MY SPOUSE'S MAZDA AND DAUGHTER'S MAZDA ARE DOING THE SAME THING. IT'S VERY FRUSTRATING.

WHEN PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, THE IGNITION IS NOT TURNING OFF. MY MAZDA IS EQUIPPED WITH A GATE- TYPE AT SHIFTER. ALTHOUGH THE SHIFT LEVER IS IN 'P' POSIT ION AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF NORMALLY, THE IGNITION IS STAYING ON (IN ACCESSORY MODE). FROM READING ONLINE AND MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS NOT JUST WITH THE MAZDA 6 (2014) BUT WITH THE MAZDA CX-5 (2013-15), THIS CONCERN MAY BE CAUSED BY A WORN SHIFTER SWITCH UNIT..

ENGINE WON'T SHUT OFF SOMETIMES WHEN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. PUSH THE ENGINE OFF BUTTON THE ENGINE IS OFF ACCESSORIES AND INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS ARE ON AS IF TRYING TO START THE ENGINE. PUSH THE ENGINE START BUTTON STARTS THE ENGINE. IT'LL KEEP CYCLING THESE TWO MODE AND CAN'T TURN OFF ENGINE COMPLETELY. DEALER KNOWS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM OCCURRING IN MAZDA6. $400 TO REPLACE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THEY SUGGEST I SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL W/ BRAKES ON TO TURN OFF ENGINE, THEN SHIFT TO PARK. CHANCE OF ACCIDENT INCREASE WITH THIS "SUGGESTION".

PROBLEM WITH SHIFT CONTROL/PARK SWITCH.. CAR WOULD BE IN A STATIONARY POSITION AND IGNITION WOULD BE SHUT DOWN. INTERIOR CONTROLLED ITEMS (I.E. RADIO, HEAT/AIR SYSTEM, LIGHTING, ETC. WOULD REMAIN ON AND WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. I WOULD ATTEMPT TO START/RESTART VEHICLE TO SEE IF THE CAR (AND ALL SYSTEMS) WOULD SHUT DOWN - THEY WOULD NOT. ONLY WAY I COULD COMPLETELY TURN OFF THE CAR AND ALL SYSTEMS WAS TO PLACE THE CAR IN REVERSE OR DRIVE MODE AND THEN PUT THE CAR BACK IN THE PARK POSITION. THIS OPTION WORKED FOR A SHORT WHILE AND THEN IT STOPPED WORKING. MY BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED AND I ENDED UP REPLACING MY CAR BATTERY AND ULTIMATELY I HAD TO TAKE MY CAR INTO AN AUTHORIZED MAZDA DEALER TO HAVE THE GEAR PARK SWITCH BUTTON REPLACED. DEALER STATED THEY HAD NUMEROUS CUSTOMERS THAT EXPERIENCE SAME PROBLEM AND RESOLUTION. I CHECKED ONLINE AND SAW MANY CUSTOMERS ALSO EXPERIENCED SAME PROBLEM AND SAME NECESSARY REPAIR TO THE VEHICLE. BATTERY REPLACEMENT WAS APPROXIMATELY $130.00 AND THE GEAR/PARK SWITCH REPAIR WORK WAS $245.37. I HAVE A COPY OF THE INVOICE FOR THE REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR WORK, BUT AM UNABLE TO SCAN.

OFTEN WHEN SHUTTING OFF THE CAR, THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF BUT THE IGNITION AND AUXILIARY POWER REMAIN ON. THERE IS A MESSAGE ON THE DASH REQUESTING TO SHIFT LEVER TO P (PARK) BUT THE LEVER IS ALREADY POSITIONED IN P. IT WILL TAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS OF SHIFTING IN AND OUT OF P TO GET THE CAR TO COMPLETELY SHUT OFF ALL POWER.

I HAVE A 2014 MAZDA6 ITOURING AND WHEN I PARK THE CAR AND TRY TO SHUT IT DOWN MY BATTERY WON'T TURN OFF. THE CAR RUNS ON ACCESSORY MODE AND WILL NOT TURN OFF. IF I PUT THE CAR BACK IN GEAR THEN IT MOVE A LITTLE AND THEN SHIFT TO PARK WITH A "HEAVY" THUD MOST TIMES IT WILL SHUT DOWN. BUT HOW LONG CAN THIS GO ON BEFORE THE SHIFTER BREAKS.

THE CAR WILL NOT POWER DOWN WHEN YOU SHUT OFF THE CAR THE SHIFT IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY AND IT IS MANUFACTOR DEFECT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PUSH TO START/STOP BUTTON FAILED TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE WHEN DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SWITCH UNIT FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA 6. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE ENGINE FAILED TO TURN OFF AFTER THE 'START/STOP' BUTTON WAS DEPRESSED. AFTER SIX OR SEVEN ATTEMPTS OF DEPRESSING THE BUTTON, THE ENGINE FINALLY TURNED OFF. WITHIN THE PAST TWO WEEKS ,THE FAILURE OCCURRED FIVE OTHER TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (MAZDA OF MILFORD, 915 BOSTON POST ROAD, MILFORD, CONNECTICUT 06460) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000.

#1--HOOD VIBRATES WHEN DRIVING #2--LEFT HEADLAMP SEAL IS BAD--THIS IS A KNOWN MANUFACTURING PROBLEM BY MAZDA BUT SINCE IT DOES NOT AFFECT DRIVING IT IS NOT COVERED--THOUGH IT WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE BULB/ELECTRICAL FAILURE--WHICH IS A (TICKET) OFFENSE BY POLICE--NOT SURE WHEN HAPPENED

WHEN TURNING MY STEERING WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT THERE IS A CLUNKING NOISE AND I CAN FEEL IT IN THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN STRAIGHTENING OUT THE WHEEL. THE NOISE COULD ALSO BE DESCRIBED AS A KNOCKING THAT CAN BE FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL, WHILE NOT IN MOTION, OR VERY SLOW MOTION, AFTER THE CAR HAS BEEN STATIONARY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME. THIS ISSUE TYPICALLY HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR SITS FOR LONGER THAN 8 HOURS. IT IS MOST COMMONLY FELT WHEN BACKING OUT OF A DRIVEWAY. I'LL BACK OUT AND TURN MY WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT AND FEEL OR HEAR A SLIGHT CLUNK, THEN AFTER I SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND START MOVING FORWARD WHILE STRAITENING OUT MY WHEEL, I ALMOST ALWAYS FEEL AND HEAR A CLUNK OR CLUNK-KNOCK WHILE PUTTING THE WHEEL STRAIGHT. AFTER THIS INITIAL TIME, I DO NOT FEEL IT AGAIN UNLESS THE CAR SITS FOR A WHILE. IT DOES NOT HAPPEN FREQUENTLY WHEN TURNING THE WHEEL THE OTHER DIRECTION. I TOOK THIS INTO THE DEALER AND THEY BELIEVE IT TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER. IT IS OUT OF FACTORY WARRANTY. THEY BELIEVE IT MAY BE SIMILAR TO OR IDENTICAL TO TSB 02-002/18. THE DEALER CHECKED THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, ALL WERE TIGHT, SO IT WAS NOT A SAFETY CONCERN. THEY RECOMMENDED PERFORMING THE REPAIRS IN THE ABOVE MENTIONED SERVICE BULLETIN. I FIRST STARTED NOTICING THIS ISSUE SHORTLY AFTER THE 3 YEAR MARK ON MY VEHICLE. THE REPAIR COSTS ARE TOO HIGH TO ADDRESS UNLESS IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHICH I WAS TOLD IT WASN'T.

WHEN SHIFTING THE CAR TO PARK, THE ELECTRICITY WILL STAY ON TO THE VEHICLE. SOMETIMES AFTER FORCEFULLY PUTTING THE SHIFTER INTO PARK WILL THE CAR SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. I HAVE HAD TIMES WHERE IT TAKES 30+ TRIES TO SHUT THE CAR OFF COMPLETELY. THIS HAS RESULTED IN 2 DEAD BATTERIES WHEN OTHERS ARE DRIVING MY CAR, AND THE PROBLEM IS NOT KNOWN TO THEM.

IGNITION DOES NOT ALWAYS TURN OFF WHEN PUSHING THE IGNITION BUTTON.

THE A/T SHIFTER SWITCH WHEN THE CAR IS PUT IN PARK THE CAR BATTERY STAYS ON THE RADIO STAYS ON WHEN THE ON/OFF PUSH BUTTON IS PUSHED DRAINING BATTERY AND KILLING IT. DEALERSHIP STATES IT HAPPENS COMMONLY BUT THIS PART KDYO-46-040

MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATIONS (MAZDA) IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2014 MAZDA3 VEHICLES MANUFACTURED JUNE 12, 2013, THROUGH DECEMBER 18, 2013, AND MODEL YEAR 2014-2015 MAZDA6 VEHICLES MANUFACTURED MAY 20, 2013, THROUGH DECEMBER 4, 2013, AND BOTH EQUIPPED WITH A 2.5L ENGINE AND A REGENERATIVE ENGINE BRAKING SYSTEM. WHEN DRIVING THE AFFECTED VEHICLES IN HEAVY RAIN OR IN DEEP PUDDLES, THE ALTERNATOR BELT MAY SLIP CAUSING THE POWER CONTROL MODULE (PCM) TO INCORRECTLY ASSUME FAILURE OF THE CHARGING SYSTEM. CONSEQUENCE ONCE THE PCM ASSUMES THAT THE CHARGING SYSTEM HAS FAILED, THE VEHICLE WILL STOP CHARGING AND COULD RESULT IN POOR ACCELERATION, LOSS OF STEERING ASSIST AND WINDSHIELD WIPER OPERATION, AND A POSSIBLE ENGINE STALL, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. WHAT OWNERS SHOULD DO MAZDA WILL NOTIFY OWNERS, AND DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE PCM WITH UPDATED SOFTWARE, FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON MAY 19, 2014. OWNERS MAY CONTACT MAZDA AT 1-800-222-5500. MAZDA'S NUMBER FOR THIS RECALL IS 7314D. MY CAR IS EXPERIENCING THIS RECALL THAT WAS CLOSED IN 2015. MAZDA IS CONCERN ABOUT THE PROBLEM SINCE THE RECALL IS CLOSED ANS THE REPAIR WAS DONE AT THE TIME OF THE RECALL. HOWEVER THE PRO ELM STILL EXIST.

PARKING BRAKE FAILS TO ENGAGE, ALLOWING VEHICLE MOVEMENT AFTER ENGAGEMENT. PROBLEM PERSISTS AND IS REPEATABLE. RECEIVED RECALL NOTICE 6 MONTHS AGO, BUT FIX IS STILL NOT AVAILABLE.

THE PARKING BRAKES SEEMS TO NOT HOLD THE VEHICLE WHEN PARKED ON SLOPE

WHEN DRIVING, REGARDLESS OF WEATHER CONDITIONS OR OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE, IT FEELS AS IF THE BRAKES ARE DRAGGING. THERE IS A RECALL ON THE BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE THAT WAS ISSUED IN JUNE 2017 BUT MAZDA IS UNABLE TO MAKE THE NECESSARY REPAIRS AND IT IS NOW OCTOBER 18! THIS IS AN ONGOING ISSUE SO THIS FORM IS ASKING "WHEN DID THIS HAPPEN?" BUT THIS IS NOT JUST A ONE-TIME EVENT. IT FEELS AS IF THE BRAKES ARE DRAGGING EVERY DAY AND HAS FELT THAT WAY FOR MONTHS.

WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON, THE CAR DOES NOT SHUT OFF. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS NOW THAT I KNOW OF AND PERSISTENTLY GETS WORSE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2014 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH IN THE RAIN, ANOTHER VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO PASS THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL TO AVOID CRASHING INTO THE OTHER VEHICLE, BUT THE BRAKES FAILED TO RESPOND. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE CRASHED INTO A TREE. THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED INJURIES THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED AND TOWED TO A TOWING LOT. THE VIN WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V393000 (PARKING BRAKE). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,000.

WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON TO TURN OF THE CAR, IGNITION WILL NOT TURN OFF. THE CAR WILL REMAIN IN AUXILIARY MODE INSTEAD OF TURNING COMPLETELY OFF. THE CAR CANNOT BE LEFT IN THIS STATE BECAUSE THE BATTERY WOULD CONTINUE TO DRAIN THE AND DOORS CANNOT BE LOCKED WHILE IN AUXILIARY MODE. THE ISSUE IS DESCRIBED HERE: HTTPS://MAZDA.OEMDTC.COM/665/IGNITION-DOES-NOT-TURN-OFF-WHEN-PRESSING-STARTSTOP-BUTTON-2013-2014-MAZDA I WAS TOLD BY DEALER THAT THE REPLACEMENT PART IS USUALLY BACKORDERED BECAUSE THIS HAPPENS TO PRETTY MUCH ALL VEHICLES FROM THAT MODEL YEAR. EVENTUALLY THIS HAPPENS ABOUT 90% OF THE TIME THE CAR IS PARKED.

IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN START/STOP BUTTON IS PRESSED--INTERMITTENT PROBLEM. THE VEHICLE MAY NOT START OR MAY NOT TURN OFF WHEN THE START/STOP BUTTON IS PRESSED. IT MAY NOT BE POSSIBLE TO SECURE THE VEHICLE IF THE IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF. THE PROBLEM BEGAN A FEW MONTHS AGO, HAS BECOME MORE AND MORE FREQUENT. WE ARE CONCERNED THE VEHICLE WILL FAIL IN SOME UNANTICIPATED WAY WHILE WE ARE DRIVING IT. MAZDA HAS IDENTIFIED THE PROBLEM AS RELATING TO THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT SWITCH. THE ORIGINAL PART MATERIAL HAS BEEN REPLACED BY MORE DURABLE MATERIAL, SO THE MANUFACTURER RECOGNIZES THE ORIGINAL PART WAS NOT DURABLE ENOUGH.FOR DETAILS, PLEASE GO TO HTTPS://MAZDA.OEMDTC.COM/665/IGNITION-DOES-NOT-TURN-OFF-WHEN-PRESSING-STARTSTOP-BUTTON-2013-2014-MAZDA#MORE-665

CAR DOES NOT TURN OFF AFTER PUSHING START/STOP BUTTON. ENGINES TURNS OFF BUT BATTERY, RADIO ETC STAYS ON. GEAR IS ON PARK AND E BRAKE IS UP. READ OTHER FORUMS WHERE MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. AN IMMEDIATE FIX IS TO JIGGLE THE GEAR AND THEN PUSH THE BUTTON AGAIN. THE GEAR SEEMS TO BE LOOSE OR THE IGNITION SWITCH UNIT IS FAULTY ACCORDING TO RESEARCH ONLINE. CAR IS PARKED AND SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING MORE OFTEN. STARTED HAPPENING ABOUT 3 YEARS AFTER PURCHASED BRAND NEW.

PARKING BRAKE STICKS. HAPPENS WHILE STATIONARY OR MOVING. HAS RESULTED IN WARPED ROTORS, WORN BRAKE PADS, LOWERED MY FUEL ECONOMY, MOST LIKELY RUINED WHEEL BEARINGS, FROM THE EXCESS HEAT.

REAR BRAKE CALIPERS ARE SEIZED UP AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE NO LONGER ENGAGES.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY WITH MY CRUISE CONTROL SET AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CRUISE CONTROL SHUT OFF AND A WARNING POPPED UP "MRCC INSPECTION REQUIRED"

VEHICLE DOES NOT RECOGNIZE BEING IN PARK WHEN TRYING TO SHUT VEHICLE OFF. HAPPENS MORE FREQUENTLY THAN NOTE.

IGNITION DOES NOT TURN OFF WHEN PRESSING START/STOP BUTTON ' 2013-2014 MAZDA

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 MAZDA 6. WHILE PULLING INTO THE PARKING SPOT AND DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL TO STOP THE VEHICLE, IT SUDDENLY ACCELERATED. THE VEHICLE CRASHED INTO A TREE AND THE ENGINE CONTINUED TO REV AS IF ATTEMPTING TO CONTINUE ACCELERATING. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED BRUISES TO THE UPPER BODY, WHICH DID NOT REQUIRE MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A COLLISION CENTER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MECHANIC WAS ABLE TO FEEL THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE ON ITS OWN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE SEA COAST MAZDA DEALER, BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS UNDETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 14,000. UPDATED 09/07/17*LJ

MY AUTOMATIC 2014 MAZDA 6 TOURING DOWN-SHIFTS THE TRANSMISSION WHEN THE "HANGUP" OR "ANSWER" BUTTON ON THE STEERING WHEEL IS PRESSED WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION. THIS ISSUE WAS RECOGNIZED BY ME ON SATURDAY MAY 20, 2017. I WAS CONNECTED TO BLUETOOTH SPEAKING WITH MY WIFE WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM WORK TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 65MPH ON THE FREEWAY. WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO PRESS THE "HANGUP" BUTTON ON MY STEERING WHEEL, MY VEHICLE DOWNSHIFTED GEARS CAUSING MY CAR TO REV UP TO 5,000-6,000 RPM. WITHOUT FIRST REALIZING THE CAUSE AND IN AN ABSOLUTE PANIC, I ATTEMPTED TO PUT MY CAR INTO NEUTRAL AND THEN BACK INTO DRIVE IN ORDER FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO CATCH THE CORRECT GEAR; ALL WHILE DRIVING 65MPH ON THE FREEWAY. THIS MANEUVER ALLOWED THE VEHICLE TO CORRECT ITSELF TO THE APPROPRIATE RPM. I LATER LEARNED THAT MULTIPLE PRESSES OF EITHER THE "HANGUP" OR "ANSWER" BUTTON WILL DOWNSHIFT THE VEHICLE FURTHER REGARDLESS OF THE SPEED THE VEHICLE IS TRAVELING, THEREFORE INCREASING THE RISK OF SURPASSING SAFE RPMS WHILE DRIVING. I WAS ABLE TO REPRODUCE THIS EFFECT EVERY TIME THEREAFTER. I BROUGHT MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP ON TUESDAY MAY 23, 2017 AND THEY CLAIMED TO "NEVER HEARD OF THAT BEFORE". THE DEALER CLAIMS TO HAVE IDENTIFIED THE ISSUE AND SUGGESTS "REPLACING THE SPIRAL CABLE BEHIND THE STEERING WHEEL." FOR REFERENCE, MY VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE PADDLE SHIFTERS. I AM VERY VERY CONCERNED ABOUT PUSHING OTHER BUTTONS IN MY VEHICLE IN FEAR THAT SOMETHING ELSE MAY CAUSE ME TO LOSE CONTROL AND CRASH MY VEHI

AFTER HAVING THE DEALER TIGHTEN THE EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLE THE E-BRAKE STOPPED WORKING AGAIN SO I TIGHTENED THE CABLE AGAIN AND THAT DIDN'T WORK. EVIDENTLY THERE THOUSANDS OF 2014 MAZDA6S' WITH THIS POOR DESIGN. THERE IS A FLAW IN THE DESIGN OF THE REAR E-BRAKE MECHANISM. SHAME ON YOU MAZDA FOR LETTING SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS THIS GET PAST YOUR "ENGINEERS".

I HAD MY CAR PARKED ON A HILL, IT IS A MANUAL AND I LEFT IT RUNNING & HAD THE GEAR IN A NEUTRAL POSITION WITH THE EMERGENCY BREAK ON. I WAS FEEDING MY NEIGHBORS PIGS WHEN I NOTICED MY CAR STARTING TO ROLL BACKWARDS SO I JUMPED IN THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE CAR WHILE IT WAS ROLLING BACKWARDS TO STOP THE CAR WITH MY FOOT BREAK. THE EMERGENCY BRAKE COMPLETELY FAILED THANK GOD I TOLD MY SEVEN YEAR OLD SON TO GET OF THE CAR WHILE I WAS HELPING WITH THE ANIMALS! NOW MAZDA IS TELLING ME I AM OUT OF WARRANTY & I WILL HAVE TO PAY TO REPLACE BOTH OF MY REAR CALIPERS AS THEY ARE STUCK & REPLACE THE REAR ROTORS & BRAKE PADS!!! NOT ACCEPTABLE! IVE TAKEN MY CAR TO POWER MAZDA IN SALEM FOR ALL OIL CHANGES AND MAINTENANCE AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THEY HAVE EVER TOLD ME THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH MY BRAKING SYSTEM!!

TAKATA RECALL: I WAS HIT FROM BEHIND VERY HARD AND THEN HIT FROM SIDE BY ANOTHER CAR AND KNOCKED OFF FREEWAY ON TO A FENCE. THE SIDE AIRBAGS DIDN'T INFLATE AND INSTEAD JUST SLAPPED MY BODY LEAVING RED MARKS ON MY ARM. I WAS THROWN INTO SIDE OF CAR & STEERING WHEEL SEVERAL TIMES AND UNABLE TO WORK FOR TWO MONTHS. SEVERE CONCUSSION WITH MEMORY LOSS. I WAS DRIVING NORTH ON MOPAC EXPRESSWAY IN AUSTIN, TEXAS AT 58MPH. THE PERSON WHO HIT ME SAID HE WAS CHANGING LANES & DID NOT SEE ME. CAR WAS TOTALED. *TR

MY 2014 MAZDA 6 HAS 68000 MILES. WITHIN THE LAST FEW WEEKS WHILE DRIVING GOING 55 AROUND CORNERS, HAS HAD A "POWER STEERING MALFUNCTION" LIGHT POP UP AND THE STEERING TOTALLY LOCKS UP FOR A FEW SECONDS CAUSING ME TO NEARLY HIT MULTIPLE CARS. I BELIEVE MY ISSUE HAS TO DO WITH SOMETHING ELECTRICAL THAT I HAD CHECKED ON MY CAR AT 34000 MILES RIGHT BEFORE THE WARRANTY WAS UP. MY CAR HAS A RADAR THAT PERFORMS FOR RADAR CRUISE CONTROL AND SMART CITY BRAKING, I GOT MANY MESSAGES SAYING THAT THE RADAR ISN'T WORKING AND THAT IT NEEDS INSPECTIONS. I BROUGHT IT IN AT 34000 MILES AND THEY RESET SOMETHING SO THE CAR WOULDN'T SHOW THE MESSAGE AND TOLD ME IT WAS FIXED, I THEN STARTED DOING THIS AFTER THE WARRANTY ENDED AND I FIGURED IT WASN'T A SAFETY ISSUE SO I DIDN'T FIGHT IT. NOW I BELIEVE THAT THE SAME ISSUE THAT CAUSES THIS LIGHT TO COME ON IS WHAT IS CAUSING THE STEERING TO LOCK UP BECAUSE AS THE STEERING LOCKS UP THE RADAR INSPECTION LIGHT ALSO TURNS ON. SO NOW THAT THEY DIDN'T FIX IT WHEN I BROUGHT IT IN THE FIRST PLACE, I AM HAVING SAFETY ISSUES AND THEY WON'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT EVEN THOUGH I TRIED TO GET IT FIXED EARLIER ON. NOW THEY ARE GOING TO CHARGE ME $170 JUST TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM, THEN THE PRICE IT COST FOR LABOR AND PARTS TO FIX IT WHEN I GO IN, THIS IS RIDICULOUS BECAUSE I TRIED TO FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY AND THEY DID NOTHING. NOW I'M A HAZARD TO ME AND MANY OTHERS ON THE ROAD BECAUSE MY STEERING IS LOCKING UP ON A 3 YEAR OLD CAR WITH ONLY 68000 MILES. THAT SHOULD NOT

I WAS AT A STOPLIGHT WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE WHEN THE ENGINE STARTED TO REV UP, THEN I HEARD A THUD AND THE CAR LURCHED FORWARD AND IT FELT LIKE I WAS HIT FROM BEHIND. I PULLED OVER TO CHECK FOR DAMAGE BUT NOTHING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL AS I SEE ON THE WEB OTHERS ARE HAVING THE SAME EXPERIENCE. THE CAR IS GOING TO THE MAZDA DEALER ASAP TO SEE IF THEY CAN CORRECT THE PROBLEM.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY WITH CRUISE CONTROL ON, MY CAR ATOMATICALLY SLAMMED ON THE BRAKES AND SLOWED DOWN RAPIDLY. A SHORT TIME LATER, THE FORWARD OBSTRUCTION WARNING INDICATOR CAME ON AND SAID AN INSPECTION WAS NEEDED. MAZDA DEALERSHIP SAID "NEVER HEARD OF THAT" DESPITE SIMILAR PUBLIC COMMENTS ON USER FORUMS. DEALER WILL NOT COVER FULL COST OF THE REPAIR BECUASE CARE IT OUT OF WARRANTY. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE THAT SHOULD NOT FALL UNDER NORMAL WARRANTY CONSIDERATIONS.

MF WEBSITE DOES NOT LIST STATUS OF TAKATA RECALL OF AIR BAG INFLATORS

BLIND SPOT MONITOR (BSM), STOPPED WORKING. DEALER COULD NOT SUBMIT A WARRANTY CLAIM TO MAZDA, CLAIMING SCRATCHES ON REAR BUMPER/FASCIA INDICATED A COLLISION. THESE WERE COSMETIC SCRATCHES. THEY WERE THERE FOR MANY MONTHS BEFORE BSM STOPPED WORKING. PHOTOS AND NOTES SENT TO MAZDAUSA, FILE 1-271657193. MAZDA ALSO WOULD NOT HONOR THE WARRANTY, SAYING THESE SCRATCHES COULD CAUSE THE BSM TO FAIL, AND TO FILE AN INSURANCE CLAIM. SCRATCHES ARE ALMOST UNNOTICEABLE UNLESS LOOKED FOR. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN A PARKING LOT DING, A SHOPPING CART, BASKETBALL, ETC. HARD TO BELIEVE THIS BSM SYSTEM, PLACED IN THE BUMPER AREA OF A CAR COULD BE SO FRAGILE. BSM STOPPED WORKING WHILE ON A 25 MILE DRIVE. IT STOPPED WORKING ABOUT 10 MINUTES AFTER THE DRIVE STARTED, NOT IMMEDIATELY WHEN STARTING THE CAR. IT HASN'T WORKED SINCE. DOING A GOOGLE SEARCH, I FOUND SEVERAL OTHER COMPLAINTS SIMILAR TO THIS.

UPON TURNING ON MY CAR (FLAT SURFACE, MIDDLE OF THE DAY, ALREADY DRIVEN THAT MORNING), I RECEIVED AN AT FAILURE NOTICE, MASTER WARNING LIGHT, SCBS FAILURE NOTICE, AND A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. THE CAR HAD BEEN SEEN 5 DAYS PRIOR FOR A ROUTINE OIL CHANGE AND INSPECTION. ALL MARKS WERE NOTED AS "GREEN." THE ENGINE SOUNDED FINE, THE SHIFTING OF THE TRANSMISSION SMOOTH, AND NO ISSUES WERE SEEN/FELT/HEARD/NOTICED AS OF YET. THE DEALER REFUSED TO RUN A DIAGNOSTICS TEST AS IT IS A SATURDAY.

I RECENTLY REPLACED MY FRONT BRAKES DUE TO NORMAL WEAR. I TOOK MY CAR TO A LOCAL MADZA DEALERSHIP, AND WHEN THE JOB WAS COMPLETED, MY BRAKES BEGAN TO MAKE ODD NOISES ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. I TOOK THE CAR BACK, AND THEY TOLD ME THAT BRAKES MAKE NOISES. I TOLD THEM, THAT WASN'T TRUE. PRIOR TO THE NEW BRAKE JOB, MY ORIGINAL BRAKES DIDN'T MAKE ODD NOISES. I THEN TOOK THE VEHICLE TO ANOTHER MADZA DEALERSHIP. AGAIN, I WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. MEANWHILE, WHEN O ENGAGE THE BRAKES, THERE'S A STRANGE NOISE THAT CONTINUES ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. I'VE READ CAR FORUMS ONLINE, AND IT SAID THE BRAKES ARE THE WRONG SIZE FOR THESE MODEL VEHICLES. MADZA NEEDS TO FIX THE PROBLEM BEFORE SOMEONE GETS INJURED. THIS HAPPENS WHILE USING THE BRAKING SYSTEM.