2017 Hyundai Elantra complaints

When I stop at stop signs or stop lights, the car will stall out. I have to turn off the car fully, turn it back on, and immediately step on the gas pedal in order to start the car up again. This was incredibly dangerous as the first few times this happened, the stoplights had turned green, but I could not move the car. I am also afraid that the car could potentially stall in the middle of driving. The engine light has turned on and the car was inspected by Hyundai and a third party auto shop. The third party auto shop informed me that they had seen multiple models of my car with the same issue. The car is available for inspection upon request.

My two back doors will not open they just opening

Some bad guys tried to steal my 2017 Hyundai Elantra. They broke the ignition from the steering column to gain access and try to start the vehicle. This is the same issue that still happening after 3 years from the Kia/hyundai boys ticktock hack. The federal gov need to intervine. This a very concerning safety issue. The cars are getting to easy to steal. We as consumers can do as much we can, but has been very difficult. It’s not fare for all us to paid for cost related to this issue (cars without immobilizer) like Hyundai and Kia’s. This 2 company’s should paid and respond to the gov and the customers for their fatal flaw in designing this cars.

I had my steering wheel telescope out and tilted up when driving down highway I had to hit my brakes Because of the car in front of me hitting his as I did so my steering wheel collapsed inward And down We'll do an approximately 45 miles an hour on the freeway. This could have caused me to lose control of the vehicle. And cause major injuries to others and was locked in positiand should have not been able to push in without it being unlocked.

The car randomly dies on de-acceleration. It gives no warning and I have seen online this is a known issue with this year/model. I have 55,000 miles on it, it's been regularly serviced. When I got to slow down then start to accelerate it shuts off. I've nearly been hit multiple times going to merge from a stop. It's very dangerous. I've replaced all 4 spark plugs, all 4 ignition coils, air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, PCV valve and I've only owned it 6 months. No engine light comes on and no reader is picking up any codes. I'm at a loss as to what causes this.

Car will lose power and quit suddenly on the highway with no warning lights. It has happened twice in the last month on a trip both times. Light’s low beam randomly won’t turn on either but high beams work. Had it into the Hyundai dealership and another mechanic shop but cannot find the problem.

My car has been dying while on the road when I'm slowing down. I have spent $2,700 to get this issue fixed, and after replacing everything the computer said was wrong, the auto shop has determined that the issue is, in fact, the computer itself. There is nothing left to fix, but the car still will completely shut down while driving. Not safe at all, especially since I live in a high traffic area. There are no warning signs before the car shuts down, but lights do show up on the dash when it has shut down. The check engine light, oil light, and battery light come on.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving to the emergency room at approximately 50 MPH, the vehicle began to lose motive power and the contact had to pull to the side of the road. The contact stated that when the vehicle was restarted, there was a knocking noise coming from the engine. The contact continued to drive the vehicle to the emergency room, and after leaving emergency room when the vehicle was started, the knocking sound continued. The contact stated that while coming to a stop light, the oil and check engine warning lights illuminated. The contact drove to a nearby gas station where 2.5 quarts of engine oil was added to the vehicle however, the engine continued making the knocking sound. The contact discovered an unknown NHTSA Campaign related to the engine however, the VIN was not included. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed with Low Oil Pressure, Low/No Engine Oil, Lower End Rod Block, and the dealer recommended that the engine be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was opened. The failure mileage was approximately 131,000.

My car has been stalling shortly after purchasing when slowing down and turning. Then it started stalling on the freeway which is a safety big time issue multiple times. Dealership spoke of maintenance they said it needed. They changed a part and parts on my car has been changed multiple times it doesn’t make since.

My passenger doors will not open from outside or inside when it is unlocked. It sometimes open when it wants but it causes trouble if I would have to get out of the car.

When driving about a month ago my car all the sudden started making a clinking noise not so much knocking in the engine or near the engine. And then it died all the sudden at a red light out of no where. Well I put the car into park and started my car again when I accelerate the rpm takes a lot longer to catch up to the speed I'm trying to go, so it takes longer to accelerate which is dangerous because cars usually accelerate alot faster than that and I almost got rear ended twice because of it. I parked it for a few days but moved recently so I had to move the car it started and everything but the knocking, or clinking was still there. The following day I went to start my car and know it won't even start and the anti theft light comes on, on my dash board. So now my car is stuck at a motel because of it. I think it may be the crank shaft position sensor. Yes my vehicle is available for inspection upon request. No my vehicle has not gotten in any accidents. It has not been inspected by a manufacturer.

Right Rear Door (Right rear passenger) will not open. all other three doors open and close. Right rear door will not unlock to open. This is a safety concern.

Entire engine needs to be replaced due to cylinder malfunction. My safety was at risk because the car would turn off randomly at red lights or when making wide turns. Sometimes, the car would not start and sometimes it would. The problem has been confirmed by an independent service center. No messages or lights appeared indicating an engine issue.

The Issue started back in December of 2023.The Engine failed while driving to Lake Worth, TX. Vehicle Information: Model is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Limited 2.0 Engine, US Built. Mileage during the1st incident was at 100,125 miles and the VIN Number is [XXX] . I was on a Maintenance plan the first 2 years with Clay Cooley Hyundai of Dallas with Dealership Warranty when I first purchased the vehicle back in 2017 so I kept up maint.Stalling began & was making a significant tapping noise.Dgnstcs were performed and I initially got Misfire codes P0303, P0300 &P0301. Ignition coils and sprk plugs were observed and replaced. Instantly following I ran another diagnostic and began receiving Camshaft codes P011.The VVT Solenoids were also replaced and this still did not resolve the issue. I was losing oil after every oil change and the oil was not lubricating the engine. I then took to a local shop and they said engine was beyond repair and had it towed to dealership. loud knocking noise from the engine that increases in frequency as the engine rpm increases. Then there is Reduced power and/or hesitation and vibration. With these issues the Illumination of the “check engine and Engine Oil Pressure” light come on in the instrument cluster. Safety Concerns: Stalling and Shutting off of the engine while driving at accelerated speeds is a Dangerous Manufacturing issue that could have resulted in a major car crash not only jeopardizing our safety but the safety of other drivers. Similar Incid

Just to clarify, the vin number claims my vehicle is a 2017 Hyunda Elantra… but it is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra LIMITED, which there are differences in the design/model of the vehicles. The vehicle was not inspected at time of purchase like originally mentioned to me in our agreement. (They only transferred my registration to the new vehicle) I had done nothing out of the ordinary to the vehicle, after inspection the vehicle then displayed a check engine light and would not start after leaving work for the day. It then began to stall every time I applied pressure to the brake or slowed down. After inspecting the issue at Empire Hyundai they said the camshaft had been sheered by the cvvt pin and extensive repairs were needed. This happened in November 2023 and I have not been operating the vehicle since. I have gone through multiple sources to try to have this repaired by the dealership on their cost not mine due to me just purchasing the vehicle and this type of issue is a well known issue in Hyundais after they reach 100,000 miles- which I just surpassed.

I was driving and would hear a squeaking sound when turning right. Then I started to hear rattling I pulled in my driveway that has a curb and noticed an object sticking out that looks like it should have been screwed into something. It ended up being the front right passenger strutt it exploded through its casing. Not only damaging the casing but the hood of the car. If I would have continued to drive on it I could have loss control of the vehicle and put me and others in danger on the road. I was unaware this was a reoccurring issue with this model until I did some digging on the internet it sounds like a manufacturer defect. Now I was going to take it to hyundai dealership but they are stating they have to do a diagnostic for 170.00 which you can visibly see the strutt sticking out the hood. Everyone keeps saying the tire can come off this happened with no warning I am unsure of what to do.

My steering wheel locked while I was driving and it was very difficult to pull the car over to stop, as the steering wheel became very tight. I was in a roundabout and almost crashed. My EPS light came on and went off once I turned the car off. I have had the car looked at by a mechanic and the entire steering column needs to be replaced.

Car has faulty engine. Have spoke to mechanics all over the state saying Hyundai Elentras have engines that are bound to die on you . Car started out stalling while driving on highway at about 85,000 miles , I bought it used at 78,000. Have replaced the vvt solenoids because this is what the engine light codes have said were the problem. I have been to hyundai dealerships and they aren't doing anything because its no recall even tho since 2017 people have been reporting this problem all over the internet . Mechanic says I have another 2,500 miles if that left on the engine even though its barely at 120,000 miles . Ive seen online people having to get new engines as low as 50,000 miles . This is a obvious problem and with Hyundai’s being a foreign car I would think the government would push for a recall on there faulty products .

Driving at 70mph, another vehicle that is sitting on the grass on the side of the road decides to pulls out in front of me as I'm approaching(no warnings occurred from the collision assist system). I swerved to avoid the other vehicle and then he decides to pull into the lane that I'm trying to get into to avoid him. I break hard but not hard enough to lock the tires up or set off the ABS. Moments after that incident, faults begin to pop up on my instrument cluster, Check Lane Departure Warning System(LDWS), Check Autonomous Emergency Braking System(AEB) and Check Smart High Beam System. I figured that since some of these are safety related that I should report it. My vehicle has approximately 38000 miles.

For the past two weeks, the car has intermittently stalled out and the engine, oil, and battery lights come on. The dashboard electronics and radio stay on. When this happens, I have to put the car in park and turn it off, then turn it back on. It has restarted immediately each time and drives normally. It has stalled out multiple times in a day, but not everyday. I took it to my mechanic twice to pull an error code from the warning lights, but he could not. My safety and the safety of others were put at risk when it stalled out while I was deaccelerating on an exit ramp that merges with three other lanes. I could have been hit from behind by others exiting the interstate highway or hit on either side of my car from drivers switching lanes at that junction. It stalled out the same day in the middle of a roundabout, where drivers yield and merge at 30 mph. I've noticed that when it stalls out, I'm usually braking or the vehicle is turning. The car is currently at the mechanic, who has not yet been able to reproduce the stalling and warning lights, but he did pull a diagnostic trouble code: P010600; Description: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. He's not sure if it's a faulty sensor or if something is causing the trouble code since the warning lights weren't on with the code. The car has not yet been inspected by the dealership or others.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The contact was able to pull to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be restarted. After restarting the vehicle, the vehicle returned to normal functionality, but the failure became a regular occurrence. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 95,000.

My back door on the driver side does not open at all from inside or out but the window still works, and the passenger side front door only opens from the inside

My vehicle keeps shutting down while I’m driving. It happened 5 times in the past week and twice today. It happens when I’m driving slow to make a turn or after the car has been stopped for a while (i.g. stop light and drive through window). Three out of five times were in areas where I could safely restart my car. The other two were in the middle of a busy expressway while making a turn and passing through a busy intersection. I was almost hit from behind. The car that swerved to avoid hitting me was also nearly hit by a vehicle in the other lane. I’ve done research and several other people had this issue but there’s no recall on my car. I don’t know if it’s a battery issue or electrical wiring, etc., but it is terrifying. Each time it happens my vehicle makes a strange rattling nose and I can’t quite tell where it’s coming from. The car also shakes for a while afterwards.

Driver's side door will not unlock. The other 3 doors unlock, but I have to go over to the passenger side and reach across to unlock the driver's side. I am an elderly female and it could be very dangerous out in a parking lot to be a victim of theft or violence. There should be a recall. Mileage is 81,000 and it's a 2017 Hyundai Elantra.

The index pin from the CVVT got stuck in my exhaust camshaft. I have replaced multiple sensors hoping those were the issue and not my CVVT and Exhaust Camshaft

I was driving down the street, and the air bags deployed in their own. I was injured.

Front passenger door doesn't open from the outside and rear left door won't open from the outside or inside of the car.This is a safety issues and I have kids, my son also has Autism.

Without warning, the rear, driver side door was unable to be opened from the inside or outside. Several months later in October 2023, the same issue has happened with the rear passenger side door. This a a safety issue because passengers will become trapped inside the vehicle since the doors are unable to be opened from the inside or outside! A Technical Service Bulletin has now been issued, however the dealership says that they are unable to replace the defective latches on the remaining two doors UNTIL THE PARTS FAIL! This would be the driver's and front passenger doors. The service technician JOKED that I would have to "Duke's of Hazard" the car and crawl out of the window if the driver's door failed!

I was driving and I was making a right turn and my steering wheel locked on me and I almost got into a accident most scariest experience ever and my steering coupler is not the problem!!

When turning I get a warning light on the dash with the symbol of a steering wheel and the wheel is hard to turn. This happens randomly and seems to be happening for now only when making a turn while stopped.

The doors will randomly stop working intermittently causing passengers to be stuck in the vehicle and in the event of an emergency making it difficult to safely exit the vehicle. The vehicle while In motion the engine would not function probably and would be flashing different engine light but never a code and the engine would stop

After driving the vehicle at night and turning the engine off certain exterior lighting components would not shut off. Turn signals and reverse lights and brake lamps we stuck in a static on position even when not being activate by turn signal switch or brake pedal being depressed

The entire engine failed and threw a rod on cylinder 3. My safety has been put at risk twice since the beginning of the engine troubles. The safety issue is I was merging onto a busy highways just fine until the accelerator wasn't doing anything. So frantically I had to start checking Visuals and there were none. There weren't any warning signs of the impending doom of the engine. It would just die out of no where like someone unplugged it, but then it would start right back up. Upon Making it home safely, thankfully. I start looking at all the basics and decided to change the oil as well as it was coming due in mileage very soon. To my surprise I was a missing half of the oil I put in it last change. There are no oil puddles or marking where I park my car nor have I seen any oil leaks after driving it for a while. It's like the oil disappeared. Needless to say the oil was quite dirty looking but no metal chunks or pieces and low some how. That same night I was driving and out of no where I heard a knocking and within seconds of that mh car died/stalled/seized up. Rendering the car useless and could of been a very serious safety issue has it happened in traffic. I couldn't stare it or anything, buy luckily somehow just made it to the shoulder barely before it stopped for good. 2 questions. 1) where did my engine oil go as I know I put just under 5 qts of fresh oil in it in August and only a couple months later the issue started and I had almost been running the engine dry due

The number 3 cylinder threw a rod through the cylinder wall. Previous to this happening the car HVAC fan wouldnt turn on unless switched to the on position and waited a while then it would suddenly turn on. It also would randomly shut down, not a stall, or the engine would lose power which happened to me the first shutdown of the engine merging onto the highway creating a huge safety problem. None of the warning lights were on and the car gave no indication of what was wrong or going on. The only time I got a warning light was a after the engine threw the rod. It shut down multiple times and/or had a loss of power. The engine only has 130k miles on it. Has been well taken care of with regular oil changes. It showed 0 signs before throwing the rod and made no noise. I'm only submitting it, because I can't be the only one who had this experience and would like there to be a record of it in order to ensure the safety of others and myself on the road.

Doors will not open

The initial problem was that the car began to stall out at slower speeds. This caused potential accident situations because of the sudden loss of control. We brought it to a service station which could not identify a specific problem. The car continued to experience this problem, so a couple of days later we brought it to a second service station. They thought it might be the crankshaft position sensor, so replaced that. While the second service was working on the car, they noticed a quiet knocking noise, which caused them to check the oil, which they found to be 3 quarts low, despite the fact that we had had the oil changed about 2 months (2,000 miles) earlier. There had been no warning light that the oil level was low prior to the service station checking it, and there was no indication of an oil leak. When we drove away from the second service station, the engine noise began getting much louder and the car again started stalling suddenly, so we brought it back to the service station. They indicated that the engine had likely been ruined as a result of the low oil situation, and suggested that we have it towed to a Hyundai dealership so they could address it. We did that, but Hyundai, after taking months to provide a response, determined that the problem was not one they would take responsibility for. We have done research and seen other consumers have this exact same problem, with similar non-support from Hyundai. I am also aware that there was a class action around this t

It has happened multiple times over the years that when I press the gas pedal to go, the car does not go or does not accelerate. Several times it has happened when attempting to make a left turn. So the car goes enough to get me in the way of the intersection but not very fast so I have been nervous that I might get hit. Generally stomping the pedal a second time gets it to move, but it is unnerving. I'm including the most recent date this has happened in the next part.

The driver's side door handle does not open on the first attempt. I have to pull between two and six times to get the door to open. This occurs attempting to enter the vehicle. I have not had issues attempting to leave the vehicle yet. It occurs after the doors have been locked. It does not matter if the door was locked using the fob or the button on the door handle. It also does not matter if the doors were unlocked using the fob or the button on the door handle.

The body of our car has been losing paint in big strips. As we drive, large paint chunks will fly off parts of our vehicle. Hyundai is aware that their 2017 "white pearl" Elantras are having this issue; however, they refuse to do anything to help with the cost of repainting the car. They claim that an extended paint warranty was issued until Dec. 10, 2022; however, the paint issue on our vehicle just began happening on October 11, 2023. On Oct. 11, we had another motorist stop us at a light to tell us that paint came off the roof of our car onto their windshield as we were driving down a state road. Paint is now bubbling and beginning to peel from different places on the vehicle (the roof, the hood, and the passenger side door). It is dangerous to other motorists on the road as the large strips of paint flying off can be distracting and/or can obstruct their view if/when it lands on their windshield.

On 6/3/2022 my car stalled in my work parking lot. My coworker was behind me and had to slow down as to not hit me. I took my car to a local Service Station who services our Company's cars as driving to the Hyundai Dealer would have been too far. They told me that it was out of oil. The oil light never went on and there were no oil stains in our garage where I park my car, nor anywhere else where I parked. I had 89,210 miles on my car at that time. Then on October 20, 2022, at 99,666 miles I was driving and it stalled again. Fortunately I was at a stop sign. When I brought it to the same service station again, they said it was out of oil. Again, the oil light never went on at any time to warn me. My VIN number does not come up in any of the Hyundai safety recalls for engine related issues, nor for the extended warranty yet I have the same issues as other engines included in the recall. Additionally they will not cover the repair (my engine needs replacement) as I did not go to a Hyundai Dealer. Yet I went to the closest place when I initially had the issue and I have had bad experiences with the Hyundai Dealer by my home. I had no idea the issue was related to the powertrain warranty or that Hyundai engines had these issues or I would have taken it to a different Hyundai Dealer before the 100,000 mile warranty was up. I know that is not the focus here but rather the safety issue however I just wanted to include that information for what it is worth. Currently, I travel with t

I am writing to report a recurring issue with my car's electric power steering system. On multiple occasions, the steering wheel has locked up unexpectedly, particularly while making turns. This presents a significant safety concern, and I believe it is crucial to address this issue promptly.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at 5 MPH and attempting to make a left turn, she became aware that the power steering was not functioning. The electronic power steering warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the electronic power steering. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related it to NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V213000 (Steering), but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 75,500.

While at red lights, coasting or waiting in drive-thru the car starts jerking and shaking. Will stall and fail to accelerate, sometimes coming a complete stop. Turning on and off the vehicle only works some of the time. This started in 2020 and went on for months while Hyundai kept "fixing" the car. Coils were replaced in 2020. Now again in 2023, exact same issue. On 9/29/23 car starting jerking while waiting at red light, turning car on and off worked. On 10/1/2023 car starting jerking and shaking while waiting in a drive thru, this time it did not stop no matter how many times I turned my car on and off. They are trying to tell me this is wear and tear on my part. Car is no longer drivable since you never know when this issue will happen.

On 9/13 my engine stopped as I was coming to a stop at an intersection. I put the vehicle in park and restarted the engine. This happened three more times within a 2 mile drive. The vehicle was towed to the dealership. On 10/6 I was told my vehicle was repaired. I drove it approximately 3 miles and the engine stopped as I pressed the break approaching an intersection. It then occurred twice more as I was attempting to safely pull over. On both dates, I was driving in traffic and was nearly rear ended putting my safety at risk as well as the safety of other drivers. The dealership told me there was no code and tried to have me pick up the vehicle after the first instance. I refused, insisting that the vehicle is not safe to drive. The dealership repair paperwork shows that they did duplicate the issue and did receive code p0014. Ultimately the camshaft assembly and other components were replaced. When phoning the dealership on 10/6 to report my problem, I received assistance in the form of a loaner vehicle and was told that they needed to investigate my vehicles problem “further”.

When driving (typically at a low speed) the engine will shut off with no warning.

For more than two years, at irregular intervals, the passenger air bag light on the front panel blinks and the associated chime sounds for about two minutes, then stops. This happens with no passenger in the seat. I have asked the dealer (Fitzgerald Hyundai in Rockville, MD) several times to look into this. My concern is that if the air bag alarm cannot be trusted when there is no passenger, how can it be trusted to work when it needs to? This seems to me to be an unsafe condition. The dealership stated that since the problem occurs intermittently, they cannot determine a cause, and advised me to contact Hyundai Motor America and would likely meet with a representative. I contacted the company in July, and was designated Case No. [XXX]. Over the next two months, in several email communications with "[XXX]," I was informed that I should take the car to another dealer. I noted that given the intermittent nature of the problem, there was no reason to believe another dealer would have better luck replicating and resolving the issue. That was the total of Hyundai Motor America's help. I terminated the case last month. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

My vehicle is stalling and there are sounds coming from engine. The stalling issue is happening on the highways that might cause the accident which can be life taking. Am not sure to be done get this fixed

The power steering went out as I was driving with my infant in the car. I was making a turn and it completely went out. That is very dangerous.

On 4/3/2023, our 2017 Hyundai Elantra was taken to Bob Howard Hyundai in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma to diagnose why it kept dying after putting gas in it. It was eventually serviced on 4/17/23 by determining they needed to replace the intake camshaft oil flow control valve, as well as a synthetic oil change, including filter and gasket-engine oil plug. Almost three months later, on 8/20/23, in Tulsa, the car just stopped running suddenly, with no active warning lights, and we found it had completely spewed out all its oil! My [XXX] son could have been killed had it happened on the highway! We had it towed to Danny's Auto Repair in Sand Springs, OK. They determined the oil drain plug had completely fallen out while driving, causing the total oil loss- and resulting in the car to come to a stop, and the engine to be ruined. They documented the undercarriage of the vehicle to show there was no other damage, and after contacting our extended warranty plan we had purchased, we were told this was not covered under the warranty. Danny's then contacted Bob Howard Hyundai in OKC, explained the issue, and Bob Howard's requested the vehicle be towed to them as they would need to see for themselves. We had it towed 108 miles back to OKC. After inspecting the vehicle, Bob Howard's contacted Danny's on 9/5/23 to inform them/us, they are NOT responsible for the engine. We sent certified letters to both Bob Howard and to Hyundai Consumer Affairs, and they opened case #[XXXXXXX]. They said Bob H

For the people that have the doors that will not lock or unlock there has been a resolution for that and I am surprised that it isn’t on this site. It’s called “ DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT(WARRANTY EXTENSION TXXL” number 21-BD-006H you can go to any Hyundai dealership and they will replace it free of charge. I had to do my own research since nobody would help me, including this website to find out the information. This is very disappointing that there was no recall or any information to help anybody regarding this situation. Especially since it’s a huge safety issue. Not to mention when it rains my car leaks which could be the cause. I do not know, but I will never buy another Hyundai ever again. The lack of support from anybody is null and void and you are on your own to find the information. So nobody has to do the work I uploaded the file for you.