THE DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUT. MY DRIVER SIDE HAS STARTED TO DO THE SAME THING. THANKFULLY IT'S STILL OPENING BUT IT STILL GOES IN AND OUT.
2017 Hyundai Elantra complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2017 record →
FRONT AND REAR DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HANDLES INOPERABLE. UNABLE TO OPEN FROM INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, BUT NOT OPEN.
2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CAR STARTED STALLING AT RED LIGHTS AND WHEN STOPPING. ALMOST CRASHED TWICE. IT STARTS BACK UP. IT STARTED 10\12\20. IT HAPPENED A FEW TIMES AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITH CODE P3006. ABOUT 20 MILES IT WENT OFF. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE FIXED. A LOT OF PEOPLE IS COMPLAINING ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. IT NEED TO BE RECALLED AND REPAIRED.
THE DOOR HANDLES ON MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CONTINUE TO FALL OFF. SO FAR, ALL 4 OF MY DOOR HANDLES HAVE FALLEN OFF AT LEAST ONCE, MY DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR HAS NOW BROKEN 3 TIMES, PASSENGER FRONT DOOR HANDLE BROKEN TWICE, AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR BROKEN TWICE. CURRENTLY 3 OUT OF 4 OF MY DOOR HANDLES ARE BROKEN. BEEN WAITING NEARLY 6 MONTHS FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO FIX THIS AS A "COURTESY" BECAUSE MY CAR WITH 85K MILES IS OUT OF WARRANTY.
THE CAR WOULD STALL IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING, THE MOST RECENT TIME ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY. THE VEHICLE STALLS WITH NO REASON AT ALL. THIS INCIDENT HAS HAPPENED 5 OR 6 TIMES WITH NO HELP FROM THE DEALER AS THEY HAVE NOT FOUND THE ISSUE. THIS VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE.
FIRST THE CAR HAS BEEN ACTING LIKE IT'S GOING TO DIE EVEN WHILE DRIVING IT. NOW I'M HAVING ISSUES WITH MY STEERING WHEEL, IT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE IS DIFFICULT TO TURN BUT IT'S OFF AND ON. IT'S ALWAYS WHILE I'M ACTIVELY DRIVING IT'S BEEN BOTH CITY STREET AND HIGHWAYS.
THE POWER STEERING MECHANISM CLICKS OR CLAPS WHENEVER STEERING EITHER FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. THE NOISE ISN'T ALWAYS THERE. IT HAPPENS AT RANDOM TIMES, BUT ITS AT EITHER DIRECTIONS WHEN STEERING INTO A PARKING SPOT OR A PARKING LOT.
I PURCHASE THIS VEHICLE IN 7/2018 AND HAD IT FOR JUST OVER 2YEARS AND THE VEHICLE STARTED STALLING AND STOPPING THEN SOON JUST SHUT DOWN AS I WAS DRIVING. AFTER GETTING IT TOW HOME AND HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT IT. I WAS TOLD THE ENGINE WAS BAD AND IT WAS NOT FIXABLE. I'M HAVE A CAR I'M FINANCING AND CAN'T USE THE CARE AGAIN. I HAVE CONTACT HYUNDAI FOR OVER A WEEK NOW AND NO ONE HAVE RESPONSE. MY CASE MANAGER WILL NOT CALL ME BACK ON THIS. I HAVE A CASE NUMBER AND CALL EVERYDAY AND ALL I GET IT RUDE SUPERVISOR WHO DO NOT CARE.
PURCHASED A HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 FROM A DEALERSHIP ON JULY 7, 2020. THE 2ND DAY IT STALLED ON ME FEELING LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON. I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AS AND SAID THEY ORDERED A PART TO RETURN IN 2 WKS. THIS HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THEY KEPT THE CAR ANOTHER 2 WEEKS. I WAS HAPPY WHEN THEY CALLED THAT IT WAS READY. EACH TIME I HAD TO PAY THE 2 TOLLS TO GO TO THEM IN JERSEY. BEFORE I GOT ON THE GARDEN STATE GOOD, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING, COULDN'T GO OVER 45 MPH WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN. I RETURNED IT. THEY KEPT IT 2 WEEKS. I HAVE MY CAR WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON STILL AND CALLED TO COMPLAIN BUT UNABLE TO REACH A MANAGER EACH TIME. I USED UP OVER $200 OF TOLL MONEY WHICH I USED UP PLUS GETTING SOMEONE TO TAKE ME TO DROP OFF OR PICK UP THE CAR HAD TO PAY FOR GAS AND TOLL. PRODUCED THE E-ZPASS RECEIPTS AND EVERYTHING AND EVERY TIME I GO AND ASK FOR THE REFUND, THE OWNER IS NEVER THERE. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE MY NEW CAR BREAK DOWN WITH ME IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER. I REQUESTED A LIST OF THE THINGS THAT WERE DONE TO TRY TO RESOLVE THE ENGINE LIGHT ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES EVEN FROM THE SALESMAN WHO DOES NOT TAKE MY CALLS OR WHEN HE DOES, HE DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL ME. SAID HE'LL ASK AND GET BACK TO ME. NO RESPONSE. THE FIRST DAY I PAID FOR THE CAR AND WE WERE HAPPY TO BE GOING HOME, MY DAUGHTER AND I NOTICED THE FRONT BUMPER ALL BROKEN UP AND IT WASN'T LIKE THAT WHEN WE INSPECTED AND CHOSE
DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS DO NOT UNLOCK. OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE, PLACE THE KEY IN THE DOOR LOCK IN THE HANDLE AND TURN, OR USE THE WIRELESS REMOTE. BOTH METHODS FLIP THE DOOR LOCK INSIDE THE CAR TO THE OPEN POSITION, BUT NEITHER UNLOCKS THE DOOR.
ENGINE TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY AFTER BRAKING BUT ALSO WHILE IN MOTION. LUCKILY, IT WAS AT A STOP LIGHT OR WHILE I WAS IN LIGHT TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION AFTER DRIVING AN AVERAGE OF 30-40 MINUTES. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE A PATTERN OR A SPECIFIC REASONING AS TO WHY.
TPMS MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS ON. CAR IS SHAKING . ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON
IN OPERATING SPEED LESS THAN 25 MPH ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET, ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE ABRUPTLY STOPPED WORKING AND POWER STEERING LIGHT ON DASH ILLUMINATED. OPERATOR LOST 90% CONTROL OF STEERING. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED AS DESIGNED. DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE WAS DUE TO A BAD BATTERY BUT ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED. RECALL 161 DESCRIBES A MORE ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING CONNECTOR RESULTING IN A LOSS OF ELECTRIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE.
WHEN TRYING TO MAKE A SUDDEN BR.AKE, THE VEHICLE TOOK LONGER TO BRAKE THAN IT SHOULD HAVE. THE TIRES AND BRAKE PADS WERE IN GREAT CONDITION AND I KNOW THIS BECAUSE I HAD GOT THEM CHECKED OUT PRIOR TO MY ROAD TRIP WHICH IS WHEN THE INCIDENT TOOK PLACE. OUT OF ALL THE CARS I HAVE DRIVEN, NONE OF THEM HAVE TOOK THAT LONG TO MAKE A COMPLETE STOP. IF THERE HAD BEEN A CAR IN THE INTERSECTION, I WOULD HAVE DEFINITLY HIT THEM WHICH IS VERY SCARY. AS A RESULT OF THIS I NOW KEEP A MUCH LONGER DISTANCE WHEN DRIVING BEHIND OTHERS AND I ALSO BRAKE AHEAD OF TIME SCARED THAT ONE DAY THE CAR MIGHT NOT STOP AT ALL.
THE DOORS SUDDENLY STOP WORKING... THEY WON'T UNLATCH IF YOU TRY TO OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OR INSIDE.. YOU HAVE TO HIT UNDER THE DOOR HANDLE FOR THE DOOR TO UNLATCH. THIS IS HAPPENING ON MULTIPLE VEHICLES AND IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE AT THIS POINT. (MORE CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS HERE: HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/) THIS IS HAPPENING ON 2 OF MY DOORS. CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN ACCIDENTS NOR DOES IT HAVE ANY DENTS ON IT. HYUNDAI SAYS THEY WILL NOT FIX UNDER WARRANTY (CAR HAS 65K MILES ON IT) AND THEY ARE CHARGING CUSTOMERS TO FIX IT DESPITE IT BEING A MANUFACTURER ISSUE. THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE GIVEN THAT IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT OR A FIRE, THE DOOR MAY NOT OPEN TO GET PASSENGERS TO SAFETY. THIS IS NOT AN ISSUE WHERE IT SLOWLY DEGRADES. IT'S A SUDDEN ISSUE.
THE DOORS WOULDN'T UNLOCK, THEN DECIDED TO UNLOCK. THE VEHICLE WILL ONLY MAKE THIS LOUD CLICKING NOISE. THE BATTERY TESTS GOOD. THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS KEEP COMING ON AND OFF EVEN THOUGH THE VEHICLE IS NOT ON AT ALL. ALL SWITCHES ARE TUNED OFF AND IT'S NOT IN ACCC MODE. HAD TO DISCONNECT BATTERY AND WAIT FOR TOW TRUCK.
THROTTLE POSITION SWITCH HESITATES UPON ACCELERATION. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, ON A CITY STREET AND HIGHWAY. ENGINE SEEMED TO HAVE NO POWER.
THE VEHICLE WAS BEING ADJUSTED WHILE PARKING ALONG SIDE A CURB ON A HILL. THE DRIVER PULLED FORWARD, THEN ATTEMPTED TO STOP IN ORDER TO PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE TO GET CLOSER TO THE CURB, BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD NOT DEPRESS. THE CAR BEGAN TO ROLL DOWN THE HILL AND HIT THE BACK OF A PARKED SUV AND ENDED UP WEDGED UNDER THE BACK OF THE SUV. THE ENTIRE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS SMASHED, BUT THE AIRBAG NEVER DEPLOYED.
IGNITION COIL PACK FAILURE. 1 COIL PACK FAILED (STARTED FAILING AT 40,000 AND IT WAS 44,000MI BEFORE THE ISSUE WAS FIXED ) & ANOTHER IS FAILING (AT APROX48,000). I HAD TO TAKE MY CAR TO HYUNDAI MULTIPLE TIMES TO HAVE THIS RECTIFIED AND IN THAT TIME MY VEHICLE WAS RUNNING ROUGH AT IDLE, WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO STALL WHILE DRIVING AT INTERSTATESPEEDS ON A MERGE RAMP BETWEEN TWO INTERSTATES DURINGTHEFIRST INSTANCE OF FAILURE. HYUNDAI WOULD NOT RECTIFY THE ISSUE WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PRESENTED AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE FIRST COIL PACK WAS REPLACED. NOW ANOTHER COIL PACK IS FAILING AND THE DEALERSHIP REFUSES TO FIX THE MATTER WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I VISITED THE DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED MY MOST RECENT FAILING IGNITION COIL ON 9/1/2020. THE ROUGH IDLE AND RUNNING ROUGH IS BECOMING MORE FREQUENT WHICH MEANS THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO STALL WHILE DRIVING. THE 2017 KIA FORTE HAS THE SAME ENGINE AND HAS A TSB ON THIS ISSUE TO BE FIXED. THE FORTE NHTSA ID # IS 10127032. DUE TO THE STALLING WHILE DRIVING THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. MY VEHICLE IS UNDER MY FACTORY 5YR/ 60K WARRANTY WITH HYUNDAI AND I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER.
IN FEBRUARY 2020, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AFTER MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND LOSE SPEED AS I DROVE ON THE CITY STREETS AND HIGHWAYS.THE SERVICEMAN REPLACED THE COILS IN MY CAR. WITHIN A WEEK, MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY "FIXED" IT AGAIN TO NO AVAIL. IN EARLY MARCH, MY CAR WAS STILL EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS: SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND LOSING SPEED AS I DROVE ON BOTH THE HIGHWAY AND ON CITY STREETS. I CHOSE TO TRY A DIFFERENT SERVICE CENTER. THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIND A PROBLEM WITH MY CAR BY RUNNING THE CODES, BUT HE SAID THAT NOTHING POPPED UP ON THE SCREEN. I TOLD HIM THAT MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON AND OFF OF THE ACCELERATOR. HE SENT ME ON MY WAY WITHOUT FIXING MY CAR, BUT HE TOLD ME TO BRING MY CAR BACK INTO THE SERVICE CENTER WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF MY CAR AS SOON AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THE DASHBOARD. HE TOLD ME THAT THIS WAS IMPORTANT, BECAUSE IT WOULD HELP THEM BE ABLE TO DETECT THE ISSUE. WITHIN 15 MINUTES OF PULLING OFF OF THE PARKING LOT, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHED BACK ON AND MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TURNED AROUND IMMEDIATELY AND TOOK MY CAR BACK. THEY FLUSHED OUT THE FUEL LINE SYSTEM. WITHIN TWO WEEKS, I BROUGHT MY CAR BACK FOR THE SAME THING, BUT THE SERVICEMAN TOLD ME THAT HE COULD NOT FIND ANY ISSUES SINCE THE COMPUTER SHOWED NO ISSUES. EVERY TIME I TAKE MY CAR INTO A HYUNDAI REPAIR CENTER, THEY TELL ME THAT THEY CANNOT DET
ONCE AGAIN THE CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND STARTED LUNGING FORWARD WHILE DRIVING WITHIN CITY LIMITS. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. I PULLED OVER AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS NO LONGER ILLUMINATED AND THE CAR SEEMED TO DRIVE SOMEWHAT NORMALLY. THIS WAS NOT THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, AND FROM WHAT I CAN TELL BY READING OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE, SEVERAL PEOPLE ARE HAVING THESE ISSUES AS WELL. IT APPEARS TO BE THE ECM, ENGINE CONTROL MODULE. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE ASAP. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE. DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO SAY YOU NEED NEW SPARK PLUGS OR A SOFTWARE UPDATE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS A RECALL IMMEDIATELY.
WHEN I BRAKE THE BRAKES DON'T RESPOND PROPERLY
THE PAINT ON THE CAR PEELS OFF IN SHEETS. COMPLETELY BELOW THE PRIMER LAYER EXPOSING THE METAL. I HAVE NOTICED SEVERAL OTHER ELANTRA'S THAT SEEM TO HAVE THE SAME ISSUE
I JUST DROVE THE CAR OFF THE LOT EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING FOUR HOURS HOME THE LIGHTS WENT OUT THE LIGHT IS CUTTING OFF AND ON AND NOW I GET AN ALERT CHECK BACK BRAKE LIGHT SO NOW IT IS NOT WORKING
WHILE DRIVING, ENGINE WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE THE ENGINE WOULD BE OFF (NO ACCELERATION) AND THE ENGINE, OIL, AND BATTERY LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. DASHBOARD ELECTRONICS AND RADIO WOULD STAY ON. PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN IT OFF, TURN IT BACK ON - NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON AND THE CAR NOW DRIVES AS NORMAL. ALL INSTANCES HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS, MOST INSTANCED HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNING. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE I HAD LOW OIL (NO OIL INDICATOR LIGHT HAD BEEN ON). "FIXED" IT BY DOING AN OIL CHANGE. ALL SUBSEQUENT OIL CHANGES HAVE BEEN DONE AT HYUNDAI LAKELAND. 8 MONTHS LATER I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM. CAR TAKEN TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. DIAGNOSED AS BAD SENSORS IN THE ENGINE (SENDING INCORRECT INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE ENGINE NEEDS POWER) AND A BAD CRANKSHAFT (AS A RESULT OF THE STALLING AND BAD SENSORS). BECAUSE OF THE MULTIPLE OCCASIONS THAT THIS HAS OCCURRED AND THE DIFFERENT DIAGNOSES THAT IT HAS HAD FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP, I AM UNSURE IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE LAST REPAIR. AN ENGINE THAT TURNS OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DRIVER AND OTHERS AS THE VEHICLE CEASES FORWARD MOTION. I HAVE BEEN LUCKY THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT RESULTED IN A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.
MY CAR HAD RECENTLY BEGAN TO SHAKE AND BUCK VIOLENTLY WHILE DRIVING WITH NO WARNING LIGHTS OR INDICATORS AT 38,000 MILES. THREE WEEKS AGO BEFORE A REGULAR MAINTENANCE APPOINTMENT AT MY HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT THE !CAR, AS I TURNED OVER THE IGNITION AND ACCELERATED THE CAR BEGAN TO BUCK AND SHAKE VIOLENTLY. AS I PRESSED THE GAS, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC IN WASHINGTON, D.C. SO ONCE I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY MOVE OVER, I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. NO SHAKING AND CONTINUED AS NORMAL. ONCE I TOOK THE CAR IN THE FOLLOWING WEEK, I WAS TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FINE AND MADE SURE TO MENTION THE SHAKING AND BUCKING AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING. THE NEXT DAY FOLLOWING SERVICE AND RECEIVING MY CAR BACK, MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AGAIN. STILL NO WARNING LIGHT INDICATOR. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE MECHANIC WHERE MY COIL PACKS WERE UPDATED (I BOUGHT MY CAR MARCH 2017 AND WAS NEVER TOLD ABOUT ANY RECALLS ON COIL PACKS THAT RELEASE LATE 2017 UNTIL THIS MOMENT). ONCE I RECEIVED MY CAR BACK I WAS INFORMED THAT EVERYTHING WAS OKAY. WELL IT WAS NOT. THE NEXT DAY I'M DRIVING MY CAR A SHORT DISTANCE WHEN TWO HARD SHAKES HAPPENED. ONE SOUNDED LIKE TWO METAL PIECES COLLIDING. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS NOW PERMANENTLY ON. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED AND NOW BEING TOLD IT COULD BE THE TRANSMISSION BUT NO UPDATES. SERIOUSLY UNSAFE AND COULD'VE NOW BEEN IN MULTIPLE ACCIDENTS ALTHOUGH
BOTH BACK DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN. THEY WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE. MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE. I TOOK TO SHOP AND THEY SAID IT WAS ACUTATOR OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. COST OVER $650 TO FIX. I HAD THE EXTENDED WARRANTY SO I GOT IT FIXED, "FREE". BUT OTHERS MAY NOT BE SO LUCKY. NEVER BEEN IN WRECK, COMPLETELY NOT MY FAULT AT ALL.
2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED RAN GREAT FOR A WHILE, THE ONE OF THE FOUR COILS WENT BAD, STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE DEALER REPLACED THE COIL, AND RAN GREAT, AND NOW THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND I SET AN APPOINTMENT FOR THE DEALER THE DAY I TAKE TO THE DEALER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT OUT AND IT WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER ANYWAY AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE COIL, AND IT WASN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ANYMORE, BUT THE CAR WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT, AND NOW EVERY NOW AND THEN IT SHAKES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND WHEN I STEP ON THE GAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OUT AND THE CAR RUNS GREAT. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL!
WHEN I PURCHASED MY CAR IT WAS BRAND NEW IT IS WHITE AND WITHIN 1 TO 1.5 YEARS THE PAINT JOB BEGAN PEELING OFF FROM THE FRONT. I USE THE CAR FOR WORK AND I DRIVE A LOT. I TOOK IN THE CAR AND I WAS TOLD IT WAS OUT OF WARRANTY BECAUSE IT WAS OVER 4,000 MILES. THE PROBLEM HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THAT BY SIMPLY WASHING THE CAR THE PAINT JOB PEELS OFF. FROM THE TIME I TOOK IT IN UNTIL NOW I HAVE SEEN OTHER HYUNDAI CARS (ABOUT 5-7) WITH THE SAME PROBLEM; ALL WHITE. ABOUT 1 YR AGO I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS OPENING THE FRONT DRIVER DOOR. THE CAR WAS UNLOCKED BUT I COULDN'T OPEN IT FROM THE OUTSIDE. I WOULD HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR AND OPEN THE DRIVER DOOR FROM THE INSIDE. IF I DON'T LOCK THE CAR I DON'T HAVE ANY ISSUES. IF I LOCK IT I HAVE TO PULL ON THE HANDLE ABOUT 3 - 4 TIMES. THIS IS A BIG INCONVENIENCE AND A SAFETY HAZARD. ABOUT TWO WEEKS AGO I BEGAN HAVING ISSUES WITH THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR. I HAVE A TWO YEAR OLD AND HER CAR SEAT WAS PLACED ON THE BACK SEAT BEHIND THE PASSENGER. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WAS ON CHILD LOCK. TWO WEEKS AGO THAT DOOR ALSO STOPPED OPENING AND I CAN'T OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE DUE TO THE CHILD LOCK. I HAVE MOVED MY DAUGHTER'S CAR SEAT AND IT IS NOW POSITIONED DIRECTLY BEHIND THE DRIVER SEAT. THIS IS A BIG SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE HER AT ALL WHEN I AM DRIVING. ALSO, I CAN'T PUT THAT DOOR ON CHILD LOCK BECAUSE WHEN THAT DOOR STARTS GIVING ME THE SAME PROBLEM (NOT OPENING) I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE IF IT IS ON CHILD LOCK. S
THE CAR CUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.IT STALLS N TRAFFIC LIKE IT WON'T GO N I ALMOST HAVE BEEN HIT SEVERAL TIMES.THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.VERY DANGEROUS N SCARES ME WHEN I DRIVE CAUSE U NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO CUT OFF N TRAFFIC OR WHILE TURNING.
PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, CHILD SAFETY LOCK NOT ENGAGED, WILL NOT UNLOCK. DEALER STATED THAT HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL HYUNDAI'S BUT THERE IS CURRENTLY NO RECALL. DEALER STATED ACTUATOR IS BAD AND THE CABLES ARE STRETCHED. VERY UNSAFE THAT HYUNDAI DOORS ARE SELF LOCKING FROM NORMAL USE WITHOUT DAMAGE AND WITHOUT WARNING.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S DOORS FAILED TO UNLATCH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN UNKNOWN HYUNDAI DEALER LOCATED IN VAN NUYS, CA, AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE LOCKS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 70,000.
I BOUGHT MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED 6 MONTHS AGO. 4 MONTHS AFTER I HAD IT THE CAR WAS SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND DID NOT WANT TO ACCELERATE . TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC HE SAID IT WAS MISFIRING AND REPLACED IGNITION COIL . IT WAS DRIVING FINE FOR 2 MONTHS THEN WHILE DRIVING TO WORK ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY THE CAR STARTED SHAKING VIOLENTLY AGAIN AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE TO SPEED IT WAS SHUTTING DOWN .. HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED . MECHANIC RAN A DIAGNOSTIC ON IT AND ITS READING MULTIPLE MISFIRES . I CAN NOT AFFORD CAR PAYMENT PLUS HAVING CONSTANT REPAIRS DONE EVERY COUPLE MONTHS.. THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY OF THE SAME COMPLAINTS ON A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA ENGINE PROBLEMS. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A REAL CONCERN FOR A NEWER CAR . HYUNDAI NEEDS TO FIX THE ISSUE FOR THIS YEAR AND MODEL . OR THERE NEEDS TO BE A LAWSUIT AGAINST HYUNDAI ... THESE ARE LEMON CARS AND ARE UNSAFE TO DRIVE THEY NEED TO BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR IT .
MY CAR IS CONTINUOUSLY GETTING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AND THE CAR RATTLES. DESPITE, VISITING THE DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES, THE SERVICE CENTER AT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN DICKSON CITY, PA CANNOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. 12/10/2019 - MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WHEN I WAS LEAVING FOR WORK. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED OFF THE CAR. I TURNED IT ON, THE LIGHT WAS GONE. I TOOK IT THE DEALERSHIP ON VERY SAME DAY AND THE SERVICE ADVISOR SAID NOTHING IS WRONG WITH IT. ADDITIONAL SERVICES; OIL CHANGE, BRAKE FLUSH AND COOLING SYSTEM WERE COMPLETED. 12/31/2019 ' CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR RATTLES WHEN I WAS DRIVING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY DOING AROUND 55-60 MILES PER HOUR. 01/02/2020 - I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THIS TIME, THE SERVICE ADVISER SAID "A LOT OF ELANTRAS ARE EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE AND NEEDS SOFTWARE UPDATE". THEY SCANNED AND FOUND CODE P030100 / MISFIRE. TECHNICIAN PERFORMED SOFTWARE UPDATE AND ALL THE COST WAS COVERED UNDER ENGINE WARRANTY. 01/27/2020 ' CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN. THIS TIME, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON. THEY FINALLY REPLACED SPARK-PLUGS AND COIL PACK ON CYLINDER 2. 03/20/2020 ' DUE TO CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, I'VE BEEN WORKING REMOTELY SO I HAVEN'T DRIVEN MUCH. 04/18/2020 ' COMPLETED STATE INSPECTION AND EMISSION. SERVICE CENTER PERFORMED MULTI-POINT INSPECTION AND FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ENGINE. 07/15/2020 - THE CAR STALLS AGAIN, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF. I STOPPED DRIVIN
DRIVERS SIDE DOOR JUST STOPPED OPENING, HAVE TO GO THROUGH PASSENGER SIDE DOOR TO OPEN DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, AND BACK PASSENGER DOOR HASN'T OPENED IN MONTHS FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, IT JUST ONE DAY DIDNT OPEN. GOOGLE HYUNDAI ELANTRA DOOR LATCH AND YOU WILL SEE MANY MORE PEOPLE VERY ANGRY WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. IT IS VERY MUCH A SAFETY ISSUE. MY CAR WAS AT A CONVIENCE STORE WHEN THE DOOR DIDNT OPEN AFTER I WENT INTO THE STORE. I AM GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP ON 7-25-20 TO GET THEM TO LOOK AT IT BUT I THINK THEY ARE GOING TO TRY AND CHARGE ME EVEN THOUGH MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM THERE SHOULD ALREADY BE A RECALL IN PLACE.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A GRINDING NOISE WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED WITH THE BRAKING DISTANCE BEING EXTENDED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE BRAKE ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 55,428. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.
OVER THE PAST 2 WEEKS I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE HEAD LIGHTS SHUTTING OFF WILE DRIVING ON MAIN HIGHWAYS AT NIGHT. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 8 OR 9 TIMES. THEY WILL GO OFF WHEN SWITCHING FROM HIGH BEAM TO LOW BEAM. IF I PULL THE LIGHT SWITCH ARM A COUPLE TIMES THEY DO EVENTUALLY COME BACK ON. ALSO TWO TIMES IN THE PAST 2 WEEKS MY PARKING LIGHTS HAVE COME ON WHILE PARKED AND CAR IS SHUT OFF.
MY VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND LOCKED. I UNLOCKED THE DOOR WITH THE REMOTE KEY AND AFTER PULLING THE EXTERIOR DRIVER SIDE DOOR HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR, THE PLASTIC PIECE SURROUNDING THE AREA WHERE A KEY MAY BE INSERTED BROKE OFF AND THE HANDLE ITSELF REMAINED PULLED AWAY FROM THE CAR AND THE DOOR COULD NOT BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE. I AM NOW ONLY ABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR USING THE INNER HANDLE AFTER CLIMBING ACROSS THE PASSENGER SEAT INSIDE THE CAR.
10/7/19 - MY CAR BATTERY WAS DEAD AFTER SITTING FOR 8 HOURS PARKED. THERE WAS NO INDICATION THAT IT WAS LOSING POWER AND I HAD BROUGHT MY VEHICLE IN TO BE SERVICED AT A HYUNDAI DEALER A WEEK BEFORE WHERE THEY SAID NO ISSUES WERE SEEN WITH MY BATTERY AT THAT TIME. I GOT A JUMP AND DROVE HOME. THE NEXT MORNING MY CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO A SHOP BECAUSE IT COULDN'T EVEN BE JUMPED AT THIS POINT. WE WERE TOLD BY THE SAME HYUNDAI DEALER THE BATTERY WAS BEYOND DEAD. AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS BARELY TWO YEARS OLD AT THIS POINT. BUT WE REPLACED IT. 7/7/20 MY BATTERY IS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN TODAY WITHOUT WARNING. A REPAIR SHOP TESTED IT AND IT WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED DEAD. THEY SAID IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME IN LESS THAN ONE YEAR. THIS IS NOT RIGHT.
VEHICLE IS JERKING, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH, CODE P0190
APPROXIMATELY MAY 2019 I STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR NOT BEING ABLE TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE ALTHOUGH THE CAR WAS UNLOCKED. CURRENTLY, IT HAS BEEN STUCK CLOSED FOR NUMEROUS MONTHS NOW. TO ME, THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ANYONE RIDING IN THE REAR SEAT. ESPECIALLY IF INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT AND CAN'T GET OUT OF THE CAR. TODAY, 6/30/20 I STARTED HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR. *TR
MY 2017 WHITE PEARL HYUNDAI ELANTRA HAS HUGE PIECES OF PAINT PEELING OFF OF THE HOOD OF MY CAR. I NOTICE IT IN OCTOBER 2019 THE BIG PIECE THEN 3 MONTHS LATER SOME MORE BEGAN TO PEEL. *TR
ELECTRICAL ISSUE - FRONT PASSENGER OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE WILL NOT OPEN DOOR WITHOUT BEING PULLED SEVERAL TIMES. CAN OPEN FROM INSIDE. OTHER ISSUE - HEAT ONLY WORKS WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION, OTHERWISE IT BLOWS COLD AIR WHEN PARKED OR IDOL. HAS BEEN DOING THAT SINCE I PURCHASED IT IN 2018. *TR
THE CAR IS SERVICED EVERY 3000 MILES WITH AN OIL CHANGE. I WAS DRIVING TO WORK ONE DAY AND MY TIRES SQUALLED AND MY ENGINE LOCKED UP AND WOULD NOT START. THE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED DO TO THE MAIN BEARINGS FAILING. *TR
I HAVE A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH PICKING UP SPEED RPMS JUMPING AND FEELING LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T WANT TO GO. THIS STARTED AT 7,000 MILES AND I BOUGHT THE CAR BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT IT HAS BEEN IN OVER 8 TIMES FOR THIS ISSUE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE CAR OR THAT BECAUSE MY CAR IS NOT THROWING CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS THEY WONT FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY, OR I'M NOT USING A HYUNDAI APPROVED GAS STATION SO THIS IS WHY I'M HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR, NOW AT 29,000 MILES STILL HAVING PROBLEMS ITS THE WORST ON THE EXPRESSWAY IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC.NOW I WENT TO HAVE MY OIL CHANGED AND FOUND OUT I WAS LOW ON 2 QUARTS OF OIL AND MY SPARK PLUGS HAVE OIL ON THEM ONCE AGAIN THE CAR HAS TO GO BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS MADE FULLY AWARE OF WHAT COULD HAPPEN IF THE ENGINE GOES. I JUST REALLY HOPE I'M NOT ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHEN THIS HAPPENS, AT THE BEGIN OF THE YEAR I NOTICED WHEN I WOULD COME TO A STOP MY HEAT WOULD DROP AND BECOME LUKE WARM IT HAS NOW BEEN INTO THE DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES THE THERMOSTAT HAS BEEN REPLACED BUT I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THIS IS NORMAL HYUNDAI VEHICLES DO THIS. MY HEAT IS DROPPING AT LEAST 58 DEGREES WHEN IDLING AND MY WINDOW IS HAVING A HARD TIME DEFROSTING UNLESS I'M DRIVING. *TR
THE ENGINE STARTED ROUGH IDLING PERIODICALLY (ONCE PER WEEK) AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS YEAR (2020). RESTARTING THE CAR WOULD USUALLY RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. IT WOULD USUALLY HAPPEN AFTER COMING TO A STOP AFTER HIGHWAY DRIVING. HOWEVER IT BEGAN HAPPENING WITH MORE FREQUENCY IN APRIL TO THE POINT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES PER DAY. THE ISSUE CAME TO THE HEAD THE FIRST WEEK OF MAY WHEN THE CAR STALLED AFTER COMING TO A STOP AT A STREET LIGHT. THIS TIME IT WAS AFTER ONLY MINIMAL CITY-STREET DRIVING. I HAD TO SHIFT INTO PARK AND START THE CAR AGAIN, AFTER WHICH IT WORKED WITHOUT ISSUE. HOWEVER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. I TOOK THE CAR TO MY MECHANIC SAME DAY AND THEY SAID THE CODE INDICATED A MISFIRE. THEY REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS AND THE IGNITION COIL FOR THE CYLINDER THAT MISFIRED. THE FREQUENCY OF THE ISSUE DECREASED SIGNIFICANTLY AFTER THIS REPAIR, BUT IT'S STILL ROUGH IDLING ABOUT ONCE PER WEEK. I DECIDED TO RESEARCH THE PROBLEM BEFORE HAVING MORE WORK DONE AND HAVE FOUND MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS. THE CAR HAS 41000 MILE ON IT.
I EXPERIENCED THE CAR IDLING ROUGH WHILE IN PARK AND SOUNDING LIKE IT WANTED TO DIE OUT. I TOOK TO DEALER AND THEY REPLACED AN IGNITION COIL.THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT JUST CAME ON AGAIN YESTERDAY...TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE IGNITION COIL AGAIN. THIS WILL THE 2ND TIME TO HAVE IT FIXED ON MY 2017.SEEMS LIKE HYUNDAI VEHICLES HAVE A TON OF ISSUES WITH IGNITION COILS. AFTER I GOT MY CAR BACK IT VIOLENTLY SHOOK AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE SPEED STARTED TO DECREASED. I REACHED OUT TO HYUNDAI CORPORATION ABOUT REPLACEMENT VEHICLE . I STILL HAVE NOT HEARD ANYTHING. I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THE FAULTY IGNITION COILS.
MY FRONT DRIVERS DOOR AS WELL AS MY BACK PASSENGER DOOR DO NOT OPEN ONCE UNLOCKED. THE FRONT ONE ONLY OPENS WITH YOU PULL THE HANDLE A BUNCH OF TIMES THE BACK PASSENGER ONE DOESN'T OPEN WHATSOEVER. *TR
WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD LIKE METAL FALLING ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH BOARD LIT UP, THE CAR STARTED SLOWING DOWN AND STARTED TO SMOKE THEN TURNED OFF. HAD IT TOWED TO A SERVICE STATION AND WAS TOLD THAT THE PISTON FROM THE ENGINE SHOT THREW THE OIL PAN CAUSING THE ENGINE OIL TO POUR OUT AND THE CAUSING THE ENGINE TO SEIZE. *TR
MY 2017 ELANTRA LOST POWER AND DIED WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN A COUNTY ROAD. HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK BEFORE IT WOULD RESTART. *TR
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NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2017 Hyundai Elantra → · Every Elantra year → · How the figures are calculated →