2017 Hyundai Elantra complaints

When driving on bumpy roads or a transition to a bridge on a freeway the ABS and traction control will fail. There will be the pulse sound of the ABS but no brakes and the brake pedal will go stiff and brakint will take an excessive amount of time. Sometimes letting go of brake pedal and trying again will resolve issue. There have been instances where the ABS, Brake and Traction Control Light have come on and the only way to fix this is to power down the car and restart. Also another issue is rough idle or misfire/check engine light when accelerating. Diagnostics is showing misfiring on cylinder 3.

Drove my car yesterday when it stalled. I was able to start it again and pulled to the side of the highway. The engine was knocking loudly. I turned off the car and called a tow truck. When hyundai received my car they told me it was the rod bearings.they initially told me id be covered regardless of warranty as its a known issue. They called me late that day and told me they won't cover it since I'm 18,000 over the powertrain warrenty. This very problem has been recalled from 2013 upto 2019. However my car isn't listed. They told me ill need a new engine which costs $6000 for parts and labor. After researching im not the first this has happened to.

Door locks don't actually do what they are supposed to do. I found that out when my friend opened the door as a joke on a residential street a while back. When put into Drive, in motion, the locks flip to signal that they are locked but say if someone were to pull on the handle, it would still open. I checked all four doors, and they behave like this. I then compared it to my other vehicle, which did not act like this. I have yet to bring it up to the attention of my dealership. There were no warning lamps, messages, or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport and I do not put excessive miles on my car, I do not drive hard and I do not beat on my car. Today my father pointed out that one my tires appeared to have "DRY ROT." and he said that tire is dangerous and needs to replaced. Then I told him my other tires also had the same cracking or dry rot on them. I do not know a thing about tires I thought that was normal wear and tear. I told my father I have already replaced two of these tires on my ELANTRA I have owned a year because the garage said the tires were unsafe; I had no idea what "DRY ROT." Now that this "DRYROT" was pointed out to me I realized the other tires I replaced also had that cracking all around the tire and I am going to look for old pictures that will verify this. IN the meantime once again It looks like I am going have to purchase another new tire because of this irregular tire wear . Today I discovered there is a recall on the exact same tires I have on my car; two of which I have already replaced. This recall on the HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tire seems to go by tire size and maybe my tire size is not on that recall but I have the same problem as you can see from my photos as described on the recalled HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 and it is an obvious problem with more than a select few tire sizes. Please look at pictures of my defective tire; I have already replaced two others, on a car that has 38,000 miles on car; and I have always rotated my tires every other change. Given I

At only 88,000 miles my AC compressor went out. It cost around $1000 to replace. While my car was in the shop they mentioned several others were in for AC issues.

The door latch actuator on rear driver side has failed. Door will not open from inside. Have to jerk fast on the outside handle to get open. Has not been looked at but pretty obvious when the kids are trappes in the backseat waiting to be let out.

Passenger door locks won't open door from inside or outside

Rear door locks have both failed. Doors cannot be opened from inside or outside, making this a safety concern. I cannot get my children out of the rear seats except through the window. After searching online I find that this is a common failure.

Rear passenger doors will not open from inside or out .. door will only open if you pound on door by latch several times. Once door is locked and unlocked again it will not open.. dealer states it is a "lock actuator " and is $500 to replace. This is a safety issue. In an accident, no rear passenger would be able to exit vehicle. There are several articles of complaints on Google about this issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the rear passenger's doors failed to open from the inside or outside. The contact had to punch on the door handle to open the doors. The contact called the local dealer and was informed that the lock actuator was likely the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure however, no further assistance was provided. The contact was concerned about driving the vehicle. The failure mileage was approximately 50,000.

Rear passenger door will not open when unlocked from inside or outside. It started recently. I feel it is a safety issue if something happen to the car and we could not get out.

I noticed the car losing power (2017 Elantra) took it to my local mechanic and got a misfire code on coil 3. Replaced it and the next day took a long trip to New Jersey, the car stalled at low speed with the CEL on pulled to the side restarted the car and proceeded to drive the rest of the way. I felt unsafe as the engine felt like it was struggling. On the way back I decided to tow it back to NY. I drove it the next day to my mechanic and he said there were no stored codes, he drove it and said he could do nothing. I drove it the next day and the same problem happened, luckily on a side street. Took it back to him and made him drive it around for a 4 day period nothing happened. My son drove it and the same issue happened luckily on a side street. I then took it to the Hyundai dealer and they said they got a misfire code. They replaced the remaining coils, changed the engine coolant and cleaned the fuel injection system. Maybe me wait practically 2 weeks with no loaner. Drove the car and the same issue occurred. Again luckily on a side street. I called my mechanic and he said drive locally and if it happens to call him so he will hook up a scanner to get a code. Right in my neighborhood the same thing happened so I called him and he was unable to get a code, he thought it could be either cam or crankshaft sensor, he tried both and the stall occurred when he was driving, he then changed the MAP sensor and drove it for 30 minutes without an issue. I went away for 5 days and ca

**NON SAFETY ISSUE** Purchased my 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE (Pearl White) used back in August of 2019 with around 30,000 miles on it. No issues at all. After one year back in summer of 2020 I got out my car and noticed a chunk of paint missing from my roof (around the size of half a football). I was immediately concerned. I contacted the dealer I got it from, they advised me to contact Hyundai so I contacted my local Hyundai dealer and they told me I was over the 30,000 mile paint warranty, nothing could be done but they could get me an estimate. I did some research, found tons of articles with tons of people having the same issue, same location on same vehicle, same color. I also found a article about a lawsuit filed against Hyundai for Elantra's year 2009-2016 for paint issue. I saw Hyundai won based off the fact they offer a 30,000 mile paint warranty. This scared me away from trying to pursue Hyundai so I waited a bit and hoped to see if a recall would be issued. Then maybe 4 months ago I went to wash my car and after hitting it with water a softball size chunk of paint chipped off my driver door. I then contacted Hyundai and asked that something be done. Hyundai's body shop wrote an estimate and submitted it to Hyundai. It was an over priced estimate in my opinion so I took it to my local (and well respected) body shop and they wrote me an estimate for exactly half the cost. Hyundai then responded they would cover half the cost. But only at a Hyundai body shop. Either shop

Back passenger door won't open from inside or outside, acting as though it is still locked. This appears to be a common issue with Hyundai's, being a busted actuator that the company will not assist with and costs an average of $1000 to fix. It is a major safety issue as someone could get stuck in the back seat in an emergency. Since it happens on average around 47000 miles, it is just outside of warranty for most people, as well. It adds another shady layer that impacts the consumer.

Right front suspension strut mount failed. This allowed the front strut to be come disconnected from the strut mount. The strut is free to to become disconneted from the cars frame. In my case the strut has traveled up through the strut mount and through the trim cover and impacting the inside of the cars engine compartment hood. Currently the strut is resting on the lower side of the strut mount. Only the weight of the car is keeping the strut inside the coil. This places the driver and occupants at risk of the strut over travaling . It also puts the mechanic at risk, because the coil spring is not being retained by the strut mount plate. The car can be inspected. I have not had the problem confirmed, The first indication of the problem was a audible rattle from the right front suspension

PAINT PEELING

Drivers rear door will not open from the outside or inside. Door locks and unlocks fine, but the door mechanism will not release the door to allow it to open

We recently took the 2017 Hyundai Elantra in for unrelated repairs and found that the driver’s side rear door could not be opened from either the inside or the outside. The shop that was doing the repairs tried calling the local Hyundai dealer to see if they could offer some assistance in regards to this unusual situation, but they would not return their calls. In order to finish the repairs we were having done, they needed to have the door open. Through research of their own, they found a way to finally get the door free and ended up having to replace the rear door latch. We ended up paying over $500 to have it fixed. The mileage on the car is just over 60,000 and is not covered under warranty anymore. Considering the rear doors are rarely used in this vehicle, we were shocked to see that there were problems with such little use over a short time. After doing further research on this problem, we found that there are many Hyundai owners that have been having this similar issue on all of the passenger doors. It scares me to think that this might happen in the future when we won’t be as lucky if there's an accident and have to exit the car quickly. I would hope that it can be seen that this is a very real safety issue and would consider a Safety Recall or Service Campaign for this problem.

The passenger side rear door will not open. The door locks and unlocks fine, but it refuses to open. The door handles both feel as though there is no tension when they're pulled and the door does not move. The car has not been involved in an accident and the rear doors did not receive a large amount of use (not daily used to carry backseat passengers). This is an extreme safety issue as we have recently had to use the vehicle to transport two small children (7 and 4 years old).

Driver side rear door will not open from inside or outside this is a safety concern as I have children if any accident happens, they or no one in the seat has access to leave vehicle during an emergency.

The door locks on my Hyundai are not working properly. They do not open from the outside or inside, even though the lock buttons are operational and the key fob is working properly. It is a safety risk that they do not open properly in case of an accident or fire. I've read websites on several internet boards that this is a recurring issue with Hyundai vehicles and this poses a very big risk for owners. The body shop technician I took the vehicle to shared the same concerns about the faulty issues from Hyundai and is still working to resolve the issue part by part. The little CLS stopped working almost suddenly, with them opening from the outside after several attempts, to then not opening at all from the outside, to then not opening from the inside or outside. There is no open recall for this issue even though several individuals have reported and is a known defect.

The rear door opening mechanism fails and prevents the door from opening from either inside the car or outside. It starts off as being inconsistent then full on completely fails.

When driving around 35 mph my vehicle had a loss of power suddenly shut off. It would not start again... I have 74k miles and the check engine light was not illuminated prior to this incident. I was merging onto a street and the loss of power had left me stranded and in danger near other cars. Vehicle was maintained well and there was no prior indications that there would be an issue. Many other 2017 Hyundai Elantra owners are having these issues and are being forced to repair their engines at a high cost.

I bought the car 3 years ago and during the first year I had to replace an engine coil, a few months later Inhad to replace the other 5. On July 3rd I was driving on the highway with my family and while I was stopped in traffic I heard a slight whine and then a knocking sound coming from the engine. I then started driving again and felt the steering wheel lock up and the gas tighten up and I realized the car had shut off. I had to immediately veer off the highway to avoid hitting somebody and noticed that the electronics were working. I then restarted the car and drove home through local backroads where the car kept shutting off intermittantly. I then took my car to a mechanic who notified me there was sludge in the engine and he had 3 to 4 other customers he recently has seen this happen to in regards to Hyundai Elantra’s. I tried to contact the dealership who accused me of not taking care of my vehicle. I currently have an ope case with Hyundai corporate. From what I’ve seen online Hyundai is aware of these engine issues about piston knock and wngine sludge due to piston issues yet has not offered a recall or any type of customer assistance. The engine failure could have not only grievously injured my family but any other drivers I may have hit or been hit by due to this known engine issue.

Had multiple issues with being unable to open different doors. At this point it has happened to 3 or the 4 doors throughout time. Door will lock and unlock but am unable to open from inside or outside. I had 2 replaced under warranty, most recent one is no longer covered. It seems like a very big safety problem if people may be unable to exit the car in an emergency.

On 6/22/21 I took my vehicle in to the dealer for a warranty repair. There was a misfire on the Number 3 engine coil. My vehicle was returned and one day later I had the same warning light go off on my car. I returned to the dealer on 6/30/21 and there they replaced the Number 2 engine coil. The dealership told me that previously Hyundai would replace all 4 coils because it is a known issue, however because of cost they began only replacing them as they went bad. He said "they will all go bad, it's just a matter of if they will still be under warranty" In my opinion, Hyundai should still be replacing all coils if it is a known issue. My car was nut running correctly and would not fully accelerate. This could definitely be a safety hazard.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal sound coming from the engine compartment. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was towed and diagnosed but not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 42,803.

Engine make a lot of noise when I started, I have a situation where the engine stall and have to come to an stop, I bought the car about 2 years ago I took to the mechanic and I been told that engine has a problem and needs to be replaced staying that he has seen this problems on several vehicles same as mine with the same kind of engine, I took to the dealer and they told me the same thing but they said they can do anything about it. I don't know what to do with something like this its practically a brand new car, I also contact manufacturer with no luck.

Driving with no signs or dash lights came on to warning me of any issues. Car started acting like it was stalling out one morning parking it at work. Went to leave work had a very slight almost not noticeable knock sound went I started up. Car was acting like it was running harder then usually. Continued home and my car started seizing up and caused my car to stall completely out while driving on the interstate. I was a mile from home, started my car back up and continued to get somewhere safely and out of danger of the interstate. It stalled out multiple times before reaching my driveway. By then my car seized up and was making a loud knocking sound. I push the car into the garage and check the oil and there was no indication of any oil on my dip stick. Went ahead gave my car an oil change earlier then scheduled. 1.5 quarts of oil only came out and was low almost 4 quarts. No signs of leaking or using oil. No indication dash lights came on to warning me of this issue. With in 3000 mileage of my last oil change, I lost almost 4 quart of oil, no signs or lights and now I have a blown motor in my 5 year old car. This is a huge saftey concern of my, with no indication I had an issue and was stalling out on the interstate/while driving to reach a safe place to look at my car.

So my car has been randomly started doing this sputtering like I'm getting ready to run out of gas and feels like the car is going to shut off. Well I had a full tank of gas so I thought maybe the sparks plugs. Had them changed along with my oil. That does not seem to be the problem so once I get where I'm going and turn the car off it seems to not do it. But it will randomly happen. About every week or two and I don't know what the problem is. When I'm driving on the interstate and it happens I freak out thinking my car is going to shut off and I start to lose speed and everything and the OBD reader states that it is a misfire but that's not the case when I have brand new spark plugs in

Both driver and passenger rear doors will not open from either the inside or outside. The only way to open is to bang just below the door handle repeatedly from the outside and sometimes the door will open. My fiance has only been able to get our children out once. This seems to be a common occurrence via blogs online. This is a terrible safety hazard for my children God forbid of a crash or fire and I couldn't get my children out. There should be no questions asked about recalling a faulty door that could save children's lives.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 50 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was restarted however, the failure persisted until the contact arrived at her residence. The contact stated that she replaced the battery, air filter, and added coolant to the reservoir. The contact called and made the local dealer aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

Paint peeling off roof of car.

There was a recall on 3/28/2017 on the 2017 hyundai Elantra for a power steering (eps motor) problem. Recall 161 I recently bought a 2017 Hyundai Elantra used. It showed no outstanding unrepaired recalls on the vin number check. However without realizing there was a former steering recall on my car i have been noticing that my car when steering to the right catches. I mostly experience this at higher speeds and while driving on the highway when changing lanes. As if it snagged on something or i have no control for a microsecond. Its happens and just as quickly goes away when i bring the steering wheel back to the left.I am wondering if the march 2017 recall and my current problem are related. Is there any way of determining if my car was under that recall and whether it was repaired or not. When recall notices on a particular car/vin number are repaired does that info get entered into a national data base . It seems very coincidental to say the least that i am experience a steering anomaly and i now find out there was a past recall for a problem involving steering. Yet i can't seem to determine if my car was repaired for such a recall in the past

Paint. The white paint has begun cracking and peeling on the hood and roof. There was no damage to these areas and it has always been garage kept. The paint is defective. It started happening almost over night and is spreading quickly. This is unsightly, will lead to corrosion, and is completely unacceptable for a modern vehicle or this age.

The vehicle will just shut off while driving. I seen that other people with the same make and model is having the same issue. Have had the car in the dealership shop a number of times and they always say they do not know way it is shutting off and two or three days later they say they found the problem and it is fixed. But when I pick it up and drive least then five miles it shuts off. I have almost been ran into because the car have shut off while making a turn. I have even heard some people say they have been in accidents because of this issue. Something really need to be done about this model

Unknown. Car randomly wasn’t a to shut off and check engine light comes on only when gas pedal is pressed. Had taken to dealership to get fixed but it still happens

While unlocked 3 doors do not open from outside and one of the 3 occasionally won't open from the inside as well.

Rear Passenger door will not open from the inside or out. Child safety lock is not engaged. It appears to be a common safety issue reported over the internet.

Issue 1: The brakes are locking up when used at a high rate of speed (high-ways/interstate). When braking and running over a slight bump in the road such as where the road has buckled due to heat or due to road repair work (or other larger bumps), the anti-lock brake system will lock up the tires which will cause the car to continue traveling at a high rate of speed without slowing effectively. It has almost caused several collisions by failing to brake in time to avoid hitting the car in front of it without switching lanes. Luckily, no cars have hit the Elantra when we have had to swerve last minute to avoid a crash that would normally be avoided. This has happened on the interstate in traffic and sudden stops by cars in front of us. It has also happened on off ramps while gradually slowing the vehicle to a stop. This could cause substantial injury or death to anyone in the car. I have taken this car to the dealership and multiple car repair shops. They have not been able to determine the cause or fix the issue. There are no warnings on the car. The first few times this happened the antilock brake light came on. Issue 2: The back passenger door will not open when using the door latch from the inside or the outside of the car. The car lock functions as normal and can be heard locking and unlocking. The door will not open to be able to be fixed. Hyundai will not repair the issue under the warranty, and has quoted a high sum to fix the issue. The technician said he would have t

The driver side doesn't not open from outside.

The rear passenger door on my 2017 Hyundai Elantra will not open. I can lock and unlock the door with the remote but it will not open using both the inside and outside door handle. In researching this issue on the internet, it seems to be a very common problem with Hyundai cars from 2016-2018. I strongly believe this needs to be a recall by the manufacturer as it is a serious safety issue to not be able to open the doors.

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra paint is peeling off the hood and the top of the car.

WHILE THIS MAY NOT BE A SAFETY ISSUE, THE PAINT IS PEELING ON THE HOOD OF THE CAR. THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PLACES WHERE THE PAINT IS BEGINNING TO PEEL ON THE HOOD, AS WELL. THERE IS ONE PLACE ON THE ROOF OF THE CAR THAT IS BEGINNING TO PEEL. I KNOW THAT THERE HAVE BEEN OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE PAINT CHIPPING ON THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA, SO THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF HIS DAUGHTER WHO OWNED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH AND COMING TO A STOP, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO STEW HANSEN HYUNDAI (11344 HICKMAN RD, CLIVE, IA 50325) WHO REPLACED THE BATTERY AND REPROGRAMMED THE ECU. THE FAILURE RECURRED WITH THE VEHICLE HESITATING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED A CASE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR NO LONGER OPENS FROM EITHER THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I DISCOVERED THE ISSUE WHILE TRYING TO UNLOAD MY CAR AFTER A TRIP TO THE STORE. IT WAS WORKING IN THE MORNING AND WHEN I RETURNED HOME AND PARKED, THE DOOR HANDLE NO LONGER WORKED. THE DOOR WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK BUT THE HANDLE MECHANISM ITSELF IS FAULTY. AFTER DOING RESEARCH TO TRY TO FIX THE PROBLEM MYSELF I'VE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE HYUNDAI ELANTRA AND IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER ANY WARRANTY. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN AS I CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR AT ALL WHEN TRANSPORTING PASSENGERS OR ANIMALS IN MY BACK SEAT. THIS HAS ALSO HAPPENED PREVIOUSLY TO THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR AND HAD TO BE REPAIRED. SINCE THIS IS THE SECOND DOOR THIS HAS HAPPENED TO I AM WORRIED THAT IT WILL HAPPEN AT ANY TIME TO THE DRIVER DOOR. I HAVE AN APPOINTMENT SCHEDULED FOR AN ESTIMATE ON THE COST OF REPAIR WITH THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW THAT I EXPECT WILL RUN ABOUT $1500 BASED ON MY RESEARCH.

PISTON ROD BEARINGS AND MAIN CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS. ACCORDING TO DEALERSHIP THE BEARINGS ARE BAD EVEN THOUGH I HAD OIL CHANGED AT DEALERSHIP EVERY 5000 MILE DURING THE FIRST YR OF OWNERSHIP AND OIL CHANGED EVERY 3000 MILES AFTER THAT.

A FEW MONTHS AFTER GETTING THE CAR THE ENGINE KEPT STALLING THE ENGINE LIGHT WOULD ONLY TURN ON AFTER STALLING EACH TIME I HAVE BROUGHT IT TO MULTIPLE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIPS THEY KEEP SAYING IT'S JUST A SPARK PLUG ISSUE. IT'S FRUSTRATING SINCE ONCE OFF THE LOT A WEEK LATER IT'S RANDOMLY STALLING AGAIN.THIS NEVER FIXED THE ISSUE. THE CAR HAS STALLED BOTH ON ROADS, ROUNDABOUTS AND FREEWAYS CAUSING ME TO NEARLY BE IN CRASHES MULTIPLE TIMES, I DO NOT FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR. THE CAR IS IN MOTION AND THE ENGINE JUST STOPS THE CAR STALLS AND THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. I HAD BEEN ABLE TO START IT AND GET IT MOVING IT'S RANDOM WHEN THE ENGINE STALLS.TODAY I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER CAR REPAIR CENTER THEY SAID THE ENGINE HAD A TON OF METAL PARTICLES AND CHUNKS, LIKE THE ENGINES ON THE 2014 ELANTRA'S. THEY SUGGESTED I FILE A REPORT TO THE NHTSA AND BRING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AS THERE IS NO WAY A ENGINE OR PISTON SHOULD LOOK THIS BAD AND THAT THE METAL PIECES LOOK LIKE THEY ARE FROM THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. I'M NOT SURE WHY THE DEALERSHIPS NEVER CHECKED THE ENGINE COMPLETELY REGARDING THIS ISSUE THEY COULD HAVE SEEN THE METAL FRAGMENTS EARLIER. I'M WORRIED THAT I WON'T BE LUCKY ON THE ROAD NEXT TIME THE ENGINE STALLS AND I'M WORRIED ABOUT OTHERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.I'M WORRIED ABOUT MY SAFETY AND OTHERS WHEN DRIVING. PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT ME REGARDING MORE INFORMATION.

IN ALL EVENTS, THE DRIVER SIDE BACK-SEAT DOOR WILL NO LONGER OPEN FROM EITHER THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE CAR. THE DRIVER DOOR ALSO HAS TROUBLE OPENING AND YOU HAVE TO LEAN ON THE DOOR FIRST BEFORE IT WILL OPEN. THESE POSE SIGNIFICANT SAFETY THREATS IN THE EVENT OF HAVING TO QUICKLY LEAVE THE CAR IN AN EMERGENCY. PASSENGERS IN THE BACK WILL BOTH HAVE TO LEAVE THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IF SOMETHING WERE TO HAPPEN. THIS IS ALSO A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH THIS SPECIFIC MODEL OF CAR.

37K MILES. IT STARTED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING ROUGHLY, SO WE REPLACED A COIL OURSELVES. SEEMED TO FIX THE ISSUE BUT A WEEK LATER THERE WAS AN INTERMITTENT NOISE FROM THE ENGINE WHICH SOUNDED LIKE A VERY SMALL EXHAUST LEAK (LIKE PFFFFFT). OCCASIONALLY, ALSO INTERMITTENT, THE ENGINE WOULD MAKE A VERY LOUD CLANKY NOISE. CAR SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING <5 MPH. OUR MECHANIC SAID THE CODE WAS FOR THE 2ND COIL, SO WE REPLACED ALL 4 & SPARK PLUGS - JUST TO BE SAFE. TWO DAYS LATER, THE SAME NOISE ISSUES RETURNED AND THE CAR SHUT OFF TWICE WHILE DRIVING IN A WELL-TRAFFICKED DOWNTOWN AREA (5-10 MPH). IT DID NOT MAKE NOISE OR STALL WHILE IDLING. WE HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE SAME MECHANIC, NO CODES THIS TIME. HE REPLICATED THE ISSUES BY LETTING THE CAR IDLE FOR AN HOUR, THEN DRIVING IT 5-10 MILES, IT MADE NOISES AND STALLED WHILE GOING UP A VERY SLIGHT INCLINE AT <5 MPH. HE SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING TO DO WITH A LOSS OF OIL PRESSURE SENDING THE ENGINE OUT OF TIME, AND THE LOUD NOISE IS THE CRANKSHAFT. I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CARS AND AM JUST REPEATING WHAT WAS TOLD TO ME. AT THIS TIME HE DRAINED SOME OIL AND FOUND METAL SHAVINGS. HE SAID HE COULD LOOK INTO THE PROBLEM BUT HE WOULD HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE AND PROBABLY TAKE IT APART. HE DIDN'T WANT US TO WASTE MONEY TRYING TO DIAGNOSE WHAT SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE AND A BLOWN ENGINE. ALSO NOTED THAT THERE ARE FEW, IF ANY REPLACEMENT ENGINES OUT THERE. IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, I'VE HAD A TIRE SENSOR MALFUNCTION, THE RADIO/M