I OWN A 2000 FORD FOCUS. FOR ABOUT 18 MONTHS I HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING A FUSE BLOWING WHICH RUNS MY BRAKE LIGHTS. I CONTINUE TO REPLACE THE FUSE, BUT NOW IT WON'T HOLD ANYMORE. THERE IS A RECALL #02313: DECK LID WIRE HARNESS FATIGUE, BUT MY VIN DIDN'T GET RECALLED. MY CAR IS EXPERIENCING THESE RECALL 'SYMPTOMS' AND SHOULD BE COVERED! *JB
2000 Ford Focus complaints
Owner reports filed with NHTSA about this vehicle, newest first and reproduced as filed. They are unverified accounts: one proves nothing, and a pattern across many is the thing worth reading. Back to the full 2000 record →
MY CAR A 2000 FORD FOCUS HAD A FRONT SPRING BREAK IN (2) PLACES CAUSING DAMAGE TO THE STRUT AND THE CAR WAS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL GOODYEAR STORE AND HAD BOTH SPRINGS AND STRUTS REPLACED ALONG WITH A FRONT END ALIGNMENT. THE COST WAS $800 FOR ALL. I HAVE SAVED THE SPRINGS TO RETURN FOR EXAMINATION. BOTH SPRINGS HAVE A SLEEVE ON THEM ABOUT (6)INCHES AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. THE AREA AROUND THE SLEEVE HAS COLLECTED DIRT AND CAUSED CORROSION (RUST) TO EAT THROUGH THE SPRING TO THE POINT IT BREAKS. THIS COULD VERY WELL BE A SAFETY ISSUE DEPENDING ON HOW FAST YOU WERE DRIVING WHEN IT OCCURS. I WAS GOING 25 IN A RESIDENTIAL AREA WHEN IT BROKE. I WOULD LOG TO LOG THIS COMPLAINT AS I AM SURE FROM LOOKING AT THE DEFECTIVE PARTS THAT OTHERS WILL ALSO BE EXPERIENCING THE SAME DAMAGE. I HAVE OWNED THE CAR FOR ABOUT 6 YEARS. PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW I SHOULD PROCEED. I CAN PROVIDE PICTURES IF DESIRED. REGARDS GARY YOUNG
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHEN THE KEY WAS INSERTED INTO THE IGNITION ASSEMBLY; THE IGNITION TUMBLER FRACTURED WHICH PREVENTED THE ENGINE FROM BEING STARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER FOR REPLACEMENT OF THE IGNITION. AFTERWARDS, THE SAME INCIDENT OCCURRED AND THE VEHICLE WAS SEEN FOR ANOTHER IGNITION REPLACEMENT.
I COULD NOT INSERT MY KEY INTO THE IGNITION SWITCH. I ALSO COULD NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL OR MOVE THE CAR INTO NEUTRAL GEAR. THE SERVICE TECH AT FORD SAID "IT WAS A VERY COMMON AND WIDESPREAD PROBLEM WITH THE FOCUS AND THAT THEY REPAIR MANY MORE FORD FOCUS IGNITIONS THAN ANY OTHER MODEL OF FORD CARS. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL REPAIR AND THE OWNER OF THE FORD FOCUS (I) SHOULD NOT BE FINANCIALLY LIABLE FOR THE REPAIR. I WOULD LIKE FOR FORD MOTOR COMPANY TO REIMBURSE ME FOR THE COST OF THE REPAIR $269.32 AND THE FEE I PAID TO THE TOWING COMPANY $35.00 A TOTAL OF THE TWO IS $304.32. *JB
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START THE ENGINE, THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN IN THE IGNITION. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION. THE DEALER REPLACED THE ENTIRE IGNITION CYLINDER AND LOCK, A NEW KEY WAS PROVIDED. HOWEVER, THE PROBLEM HAS REOCCURRED.
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE IN REVERSE COMING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE AT 1MPH A NOISE WAS HEARD RUBBING AGAINST THE TIRE. UPON INSPECTION, THE CONTACT DETERMINED THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE COIL SPRING BROKE. THE PART WITH THE RUBBER SEAL IN THE COIL SPRING RUSTED CAUSING THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO SUGGESTED CONTACTING THE NHTSA TO FILE A COMPLAINT. THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT BEEN ALERTED.
EXITING THE HIGHWAY THERE WAS A LOUD POP FROM THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE WHEEL WELL. BELIEVED I HAD HIT SOMETHING BUT THERE WAS NOTHING IN THE MIRROR. SOUND CONTINUED WHEN THE WHEEL WAS TURNED FROM HARD LEFT TO HARD RIGHT. JACKED CAR TO SEE IF SOMETHING WAS STUCK BEHIND TIRE AND WHEN WEIGHT WAS LIFTED FROM SUSPENSION SPRING WHICH WAS BROKEN SHIFTED AND MADE CONTACT WITH TIRE. IF I HAD HIT A BUMP WHEN/OR AFTER SPRING BROKE IT WOULD HAVE PUNCTURED TIRE CAUSING LOSE OF CONTROL. *NM
I TRY TO TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND IT WILL NOT TURN. THIS HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 YEARS. I ALSO HAD TO GET IT TOWED ALL 3 TIMES TO THE DEALER TO BE REPAIRED. I HAVE SPENT A LITTLE OVER $500 FOR THESE REPAIRS. *NM
AFTER FINISHING WORK, I WENT OUT TO MY CAR AND THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN. I TRIED FOR AN HOUR TO GET THE KEY TO TURN BUT IT NEVER DID. SINCE I AM NEW TO THE AREA, AND I DO NOT KNOW ANYONE, I ENDED UP HAVING THE CAR TOWED TO THE FORD DEALERSHIP. THEY TOLD ME THE IGNITION SWITCH WOULD HAVE TO BE DRILLED OUT AND REPLACED. I WAS BILLED $325. *NM
I WAS DRIVING AT 65 MPH, WHILE THE ENGINE OF MY CAR STARTED LOOSING POWER AND RPMS. I IMMEDIATELY SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL AND PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. I TRIED TO RESTART THE CAR, BUT IT WAS RUNNING PRETTY BAD, ALMOST AS IF NOT ENOUGH FUEL WAS GOING TO THE ENGINE. I SHUT THE ENGINE OFF FOR 5 MINUTES. I RESTARTED AGAIN AND IT WORKED OK FOR ANOTHER 10 MINUTES, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURRED AGAIN. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TIME THIS IS HAPPENING, USUALLY IT HAPPENS WHEN IT'S A WARM (NOT HOT) DAY, AND WITH HALF TANK OR LESS. HOWEVER THE PROBLEM GOT WORSE, SO IT HAPPENS REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL LEVEL. THE FUEL PUMP SEEMS TO OVERHEAT. *NM
I DROVE HOME FROM SCHOOL PARKED MY 2000 FORD FOCUS LX IN THE DRIVEWAY AND ON MY WAY OUT TO WORK FOUND THAT MY IGNITION WOULD NOT TURN AND MY STEERING WHEEL WAS LOCKED INTO PLACE. AFTER 2 DAYS OF HAVING TO FIND AN ALTERNATIVE WAY TO WORK I CALLED A LOCKSMITH WHO SAID THEY HAVE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS HAPPENING A WEEK AND TO LIGHTLY TAP ON THE KEY WHILE IT IS IN THE IGNITION, AFTER TRYING THAT I FOUND IT WORKS BUT HAS TO BE DONE EVERYTIME I WANT TO START THE CAR. *JB
KEY AND IGNITION CYLINDER ON STEERING COLUMN GETTING HOT. IGNITION LOCKED UP FOR THE SECOND TIME. REPAIRED 1ST TIME WITH MOTORCRAFT PART. ALSO MAYBE NOT RELEVANT BUT IT'S LIKE THERE IS NO BRAKING SYSTEM WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. UPON LOADING CAR ONTO TRAILER, FOOT ON BRAKE TOOK KEY OUT OF IGNITION BRIEFLY AND CAR ROLLED BACK MISSING RAMPS FALLING ON END OF TRAILER AND DAMAGED FRONT BUMPER. *JB
I HAD MY IGNITION SWITCH REPLACE ONCE ALREADY, HAVING TO PAY 300.00 THE FIRST TIME, AND KNOW JUST THE OTHER DAY I WENT TO VISIT MY BROTHER, AND WHEN I GOT READY TO LEAVE, MY KEY WOULD NOT START, MY BROTHER HAD LEFT BEFORE ME, SO I WAS STRANDED, ME AND MY BOYS FOR 45 MINUTES IN 20 DEGREE WEATHER, I WAS SO UPSET, I CAN NOT BELIEVE FORD IS NOT DOING A RECALL, IM SELLING THIS PIECE A CRAP OF A CAR, AND WILL NEVER AGAIN BY A FORD CAR, AND IM GOING TO SPREAD THE WORD ON HOW HORRIBLE THERE SERVICE AND CARS ARE. *JB
I HAVE A 2000 FORD FOCUS AND HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR. I'VE HAD MOST (8 OF 12) OF THE RECALL SERVICES DONE TO THE CAR. NOW THE KEY WON'T TURN BECAUSE THE IGNITION IS JAMMED. I SEARCHED THE WEB AND FOUND LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF POSTS ON WEBSITES REGARDING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH ALL YEARS OF THE FORD FOCUS. ON MANY SITES, PEOPLE ARE DESCRIBING THE SAME PROBLEM OF THE IGNITION PROBLEM AND PAYING $350+ AT THE DEALERS TO GET IT FIXED. THESE SAME SITES HAVE MANY PEOPLE HOPING THAT NHTSA WILL FORCE FORD TO DO A RECALL ON THE IGNITION. IT IS A DEFECT WHEN IT'S THIS COMMON. PEOPLE DESCRIBE TOW TRUCK OPERATORS SAYING THEY TOW A NUMBER OF FORD FOCUS TO THE DEALER FOR THE IGNITION PROBLEM EACH MONTH. PLEASE DO SOMETHING!! *JB
MY IGNITION IS JAMMED AND WILL NOT TURN THE CAR ON. I HAVE READ NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS PROBLEM AND THINK THAT IT SHOULD BE A RECALL. I HAVE NOT FIXED THE PROBLEMS BECAUSE I HAVE PUT TOO MUCH MONEY INTO THIS "LEMON" OF A CAR ALREADY! I NEED A RECALL TO PAY FOR FORD'S MISTAKE! *NM
1) IGNITION STUCK, AND CAN'T START VEHICLE. 2) STEPDAUGHTER WAS STRANDED, BY SIDE OF ROAD. CAR HAD TO BE TOWED HOME, AND THEN DEALER. 3) DRILLED IGNITION TUMBLER FROM AND RE-KEYED. RE-KEYED NEW IGNITION CYLINDER. *JB
WHILE DRIVING MY 2000 FORD FOCUS SEDAN UPON EXITING THE PARKWAY SATURDAY EVENING MARCH 18, 2006, I HEARD A LOUD THUD FROM WITHIN THE FRONT END, LIKE SOMETHING HAD SNAPPED. NOTHING LOOKED TO BE WRONG. A SHORT TIME LATER, THE VEHICLE STARTED TO EMANATE A LOUD HIGH-PITCHED GRINDING NOISE AND THEN A LOT OF SMOKE. WHAT HAPPENED IS THE FRONT RIGHT WHEEL SUSPENSION SPRING SNAPPED OFF THE STRUT AND GORGED A DEEP TROUGH OR GROOVE IN MY TIRE. FORTUNATELY THE TIRE WAS BRAND NEW. IF THIS HAD HAPPENED WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE PARKWAY A FEW MINUTES BEFORE, NO DOUBT THE TIRE WOULD HAVE BLOWN AND SENT ME CAREENING OUT OF CONTROL. MY MECHANIC PUT THE CAR UP ON A LIFT SO I COULD TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS. MY MECHANIC IS MAKING THE REPAIRS TODAY. HE REPORTS THE STRUT SPRING BROKE IN THREE SEPARATE PLACES. THE FRONT TIRE IS DESTROYED AND RENDERED TOTALLY USELESS. THE ODOMETER READING IS 66,662 MILES. THE DEFECTIVE PARTS WILL BE RETAINED AND MADE AVAILABLE FOR PHYSICAL INSPECTION. I AM SENDING MY PHOTOS AS AN ATTACHMENT WITH MY E-MAIL MESSAGE TO THE NHTSA AT THEIR FOLLOWING ADDRESS: [email protected] I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED THIS TYPE OF MECHANICAL FAILURE IN ANY OTHER VEHICLE MAKE OR MODEL AND I HAVE BEEN DRIVING CONTINUOUSLY SINCE 1965. YOU WILL OBSERVE THAT A NUMBER OF IDENTICAL MECHANICAL FAILURES INVOLVING THE FORD FOCUS STRUTS AND SPRINGS ARE POSTED BY OTHERS AT THE NHTSA WEB SITE. *JB THE MECHANIC INFORMED THE CONSUMER THE FRONT STRUT BROKE WHICH CAUSED THE FRONT COIL SPRING TO BREAK INTO T
FAILED TO START; NOTICED THAT POSITIVE CABLE INSULATION NEAR CONNECTION TO BATTERY WAS MELTED; HAD BATTERY JUMP-START; TOOK TO HAVE BATTERY CHECK IN CAR WHILE RUNNING; BAD BATTERY; REPLACED BATTERY WITH NEW ONE; AND FAILED TO TURN ON; MECHANIC CHECKED CONTINUITY AND THERE WAS NONE FOUND; MECHANIC CUT OFF PART OF CABLE WITH BURNT INSULATION AND TRIED TO RECONNECT; NO REMEDY; NOTIFIED BY MECHANIC THAT IT WOULD COST APPROXIMATELY $400 TO REPLACE POSITIVE CABLE HARNESS. MECHANIC NOTIFIED ME OF A RECALL HE FOUND CONCERNING THE ZETEC ENGINE AND BATTERY CABLE HARNESSES CATCHING ON FIRE; THUS, CONTACTED DEALER WITH VIN; AND THEY SAID THERE IS NO SUCH RECALL ASSOCIATED WITH THAT VIN... *JB
FOR SEVERAL WEEKS, WHEN I WOULD GO TO START MY FORD FOCUS (2000 SE), I WOULD FEEL A SMALL AMOUNT OF TURBULENCE COMING FROM THE ENGINE. TODAY, AS I DELIVERED MY NEWSPAPER ROUTE, THE ENGINE HAD A LOUD UNRYTHMIC TICK TO IT. BY THE AFTERNOON, WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO TURN ON THE CAR, THE ENGINE SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND MADE A TERRIBLE 'CLANKING' SOUND THAT ECHOED LOUDLY FROM WITHIN THE CHAMBERS OF THE ENGINE. I HAVE NOT ATTEMPTED TO RESTART MY VEHICLE, BECAUSE MY MECHANIC WARNED THAT HE HAS WORKED ON THREE OTHER FOCUS MODELS THAT HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. TWO OF THOSE VEHICLES EXPERIENCED AN EXPLODING OF THEIR ENGINES. MY VEHICLE WILL COST ANYWHERE BETWEEN 500$ AND 1000$ TO REPAIR, BUT EVEN THEN THERE IS NO GUARANTEE THAT IT WILL BE REMEDIED. THE MECHANIC BELIEVES THAT THE PROBLEM EXISTS WITHIN THE FOURTH CHAMBER'S BEARINGS, WHICH - IF OUT OF ALIGNMENT - CAUSES THE SHAFT TO LOSE CENTRIFUGAL FORCE (HENCE THE VIOLENT SHAKING). *NM
THE IGNITION WON'T TURN SO THE VEHICLE WON'T START. IT LEFT ME STRANDED AT WORK AND NOW DOWN TO ONE CAR FOR ME AND MY WIFE. WE HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO REPAIR IT YET DUE TO THE COST OF A REPLACEMENT PART AND TO GET IT TOWED TO A SERVICE STATION. *NM
I BOUGHT MY FORD FOCUS WITH 19 MILES ON IT IN JUNE OF 2000 FROM THE TIME I BOUGHT IT I HAD ISSUES WITH THE KEY GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION OR FAILING TO TURN, OR REQUIRING EXCESSIVE PRESSURE TO GET IT TO TURN. AFTER MANY MINUTES OF WORK I WAS GENERALLY ABLE TO FORCE THE IGNITION TO TURN. EVENTUALLY I COULD NO LONGER FORCE THE SYSTEM TO WORK. I HAVE ASKED SEVERAL DEALERSHIPS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND THEY STATE IT IS A KNOWN PROBLEM BUT FORD DOES NOT ACKNOWLEDGE RESPONSIBILITY. TO REPAIR THIS ISSUE I MUST HAVE THE CAR TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND HAVE THE IGNITION REPLACED. *NM
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THERE WAS A LOUD POPPING NOISE AND LOSS OF BRAKE POWER. THE CONTACT DOWN SHIFTED THE TRANSMISSION TO STOP THE VEHICLE, AND NOTICED BRAKE FLUID LEAKING FROM THE REAR DRIVER SIDE WHEEL. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO AN INDEPENDENT REPAIR SHOP, WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THE REAR BRAKE SHOE BROKE AND SEVERED THE BRAKE LINE. THE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS, BRAKE LINES, SHOES, AND CYLINDERS WERE REPLACED. THE REAR BRAKE DRUMS WERE RESURFACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALERTED.
OUR FORD FOCUS HAS BEEN NOTHING BUT PROBLEM SINCE WE BOUGHT THE THING. THE WIRING WAS SHOT ABOUT 4 MONTHS IN, AND WE COULD NO LONGER USE THE ELECTRONIC LOCKS, OR TRUNK OPENER. HOWEVER, THE LATEST PROBLEM WOULD BE THE IGNITION. I WAS GETTING GAS WHEN I WENT TO PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND IT WAS STUCK. LUCKILY, AFTER A BRIEF PANICK ATTACK I MANAGED TO GET IT TO START. TODAY, UNFORTUNATELY WE WEREN'T SO LUCKY, AND THE STEERING WHEEL, BRAKE PEDAL AND IGNITION ARE ALL FROZEN AND ARE UNABLE TO START THE CAR. I NOW HAVE NO VEHICLE FOR WORK TOMORROW MORNING, AND AM FURIOUS WITH THIS UNRELIABLE VEHICLE. SOMEONE MUST DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS! *NM
FORD ISSUED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN, CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 03V482000, IN NOVEMBER 2003, WHICH STATED THAT CONTAMINATION OF THE FILTER IN THE FUEL DELIVERY MODULE WOULD EVENTUALLY LEAD TO BLOCKAGE OF THE SYSTEM. THE REPLACED THE FDM IN MY CAR IN 2004 BECAUSE MY CAR WAS EXPERIENCING ALL THE SYMPTOMS OF THE ADVISORY. HOWEVER, 2 YEARS LATER, I AM EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS BECAUSE THE FIX DID NOT WORK. THE FILTER ONCE AGAIN BECAME CONTAMINATED AND THE FUEL PUMP ONCE AGAIN NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. I SPOKE TO A CUSTOMER SERVICE REP AT FORD AND ALTHOUGH HE WAS VERY UNDERSTANDING, THE FACT IS THE ADVISORY WAS NOT A RECALL AND THEY TOOK CARE OF THE FDM. I AM NOT SURE WHAT ELSE CAN BE DONE AT THIS POINT BECAUSE, THIS FIRST RECURRENCE HAPPENED WHILE TRYING TO MERGE ONTO 60+ MPH TRAFFIC AND MY CARE REFUSED TO ACCELERATE BEYOND 30 MPH. IF FORD SAYS THAT THE PROBLEM IS FIXED, THEN A REPEAT OF THE PROBLEM SHOULD NOT OCCUR TWO YEARS LATER. *JB
2000 FOCUS TIRES WERE PULLING. *TS ***NAR*** THE RIMS WERE BENT AS A RESULT OF THE TIRES PULLING. *JB
I HAVE A 2000 FOCUS. THE PROBLEM WITH THIS IS CAR IS THAT RECENTLY THE IGNITION CYLINDER LOCKED UP. I HAVE BEEN READING ON FORUMS, AND HAVE TALKED TO MY MECHANIC ABOUT THIS, AND THEY SAY THAT THIS IS A COMMON THING ON FORD FOCUS MODELS 2000 AND 2001. ITS INCREDIBLE FORD HAS NOT DONE A RECALL. I REALLY NEED MY CAR FOR WORK AND OTHER TASKS I MUST DO, BUT THERE'S NOTHING I CAN DO BUT WASTED OVER 400 DOLLARS TO GET IT FIXED. ITS RIDICULOUS. I HOPE YOU ALL CAN DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS. THIS IS GETTING FRUSTRATING. *JB
I BOUGHT A USED 2000 FORD FOCUS AND I WILL BE DRIVING ABOUT 50-55 MPH AND GO TO SLOW DOWN OR STOP AND WHEN I GO TO GIVE IT GAS AND IT HESITATES AND JERKS AND MY MECHANIC SAID THERE WAS A CONCERN WITH THIS VEHICLE ABOUT THE FUEL PUMP AND I WAS JUST WONDERING IF THE DEALER IS DOING ANYTHING TO PREVENT THIS. I STILL HAVE ABOUT 4000 TILL MY INITIAL WARRANTY RUNS OUT AND PURCHASED THE EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR THE VEHICLE PLEASE HELP ME OUT ERIC PETERS. *JB
I RECEIVED A NOTICE FROM FORD IN 2005 STATING THAT THE FUEL PUMP ON MY 2000 FORD FOCUS HAD SOME DESIGN ISSUES. IT ALSO STATED THAT NOT ALL VEHICLES HAD BEEN AFFECTED BUT SHOULD YOU HAVE ANY ISSUES WITH THE FUEL SYSTEM TO BRING IT TO A DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIR AT NO CHARGE. LAST MONTH MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEPT TURNING ON AND I TOOK THE CAR IN TO HAVE IT INSPECTED AND MY MECHANIC INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE FUEL PUMP AND IT WAS SPEWING RAW FUEL INTO THE WHEEL WELL. HE ALSO MENTIONED THAT THIS PART WAS UNDER RECALL FROM THE MANUFACTURER AND REFERRED ME TO A DEALER NEAR BY. UPON ARRIVAL AT THE DEALERSHIP, THEY DISPUTED THE RECALL NOTICE THAT I HAD AND DENIED ME SERVICE. I WAS FORCED TO PAY OUT OF MY OWN POCKET TO REPAIR THE RECALLED ITEM. *NM
I HAVE A 2000 FORD FOCUS SE. THE VEHICLE HAS POWER LOCKS. OVER THE COURSE OF A WEEK, EVERY TIME I WOULD HIT THE BUTTON TO UNLOCK/LOCK THE DOOR IT WOULD REACT VERY LAZY UNTIL FINALLY THE BUTTON STOPPED WORKING. ONCE THE POWER LOCKS STOPPED WORKING, I WAS UNABLE TO MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DRIVER DOOR AND NOT ONLY THAT BUT I WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR BECAUSE IT WAS FROZEN IN THE LOCK POSITION. I HAD TO CLIMB OUT THE PASSENGER SIDE. EVEN IF I PULLED THE HANDLE ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAR ON THE DRIVER'S DOOR, IT WOULDN'T OPEN. THE FUSE HAD BLOWN AND IT WASN'T UNTIL I REPLACED THE FUSE THAT THE DRIVERS DOOR WOULD OPEN AGAIN. WHEN THE POWER LOCKS ARE WORKING THE DRIVER'S DOOR WILL OPEN WHEN I PULL THE HANDLE, BUT THE FUSE BLEW AGAIN TWO DAYS AGO AND THE SAME THING HAPPENED, THE DOOR IS STUCK IN THE LOCK POSITION AND I HAVE TO CRAWL OUT THE PASSENGER SIDE. THIS IS POTENTIALLY A DANGEROUS CONDITION BECAUSE IF I HAD TO GET OUT OF THE CAR QUICKLY I COULDN'T BECAUSE IT WON'T LET ME OUT OF THE CAR. MY MECHANIC SAID THAT SOMEHOW THE DRIVER DOOR IS THE MASTER MECHANISM AND THAT IS WHY IT HAPPENS ONLY TO THE DRIVER DOOR. HE THINKS THIS IS A DESIGN FLAW AND IF POSSIBLE I WOULD LIKE IT ADDRESSED. *JB
NEEDED TO HAVE THE CLUTCH REPLACED WITH ONLY 37,340 MILES ON THE CAR. NOTICED BURNING SMELL COMING FROM CAR ESPECIALLY IN THE SUMMER WHEN STOPPING ON HILLS. IT SEEMED THAT HAVING THE AIR CONDITIONER ON, STOPPING ON A HILL, AND THEN DRIVING OUT OF 1ST GEAR FOR SOME REASON BURNS OUT THE CLUTCH. SO THE CLUTCH WORE OUT AND I HAD IT REPLACED AT A COST OF $924.96. WAS TOLD BY DEALERSHIP THAT IT WAS PROBABLY DUE TO THE WAY I DRIVE. I'VE BEEN DRIVING CARS FOR 34 YEARS AND HAVE NEVER NEEDED TO REPLACE A CLUTCH. SEEMS TO ME THERE IS SOME KIND OF DEFECT; CLUTCHES SHOULD NOT NEED TO BE REPLACED SO SOON. HOW DO I PREVENT THE SAME THING FROM HAPPENING IN THE FUTURE? *NM
COULDN'T TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION TO START THE CAR. HAD CAR TOWED AND THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED AT A COST OF MORE THAN $300. THE CAR IS 5 YEARS OLD WITH ONLY 43,000 MILES ON IT. *NM
HAD CAR TOWED AFTER LOUD NOISE COMING FROM FRONT END. FRONT COIL SPRING BROKE WHILE CAR WAS PARKED(??). DEALER REPLACED THE SPRING AT NO CHARGE UNDER RECALL 03M02B (COIL SPRING CORROSION WARRANTY EXTENSION). DEALER SAID COULD NOT REPLACE REST OF COIL SPRINGS UNTIL/UNLESS THEY BREAK. IS IT DANGEROUS TO DRIVE AROUND WITH POSSIBLY DEFECTIVE COIL SPRINGS? *JB
OUR YEAR 2000 FORD FOCUS HAS A FAULTY IGNITION CYLINDER THAT FREQUENTLY JAMS. MY WIFE HAS BEEN LEFT STRANDED TWICE AS A RESULT. WE RECENTLY SAW A PUBLIC ADVOCATE PROGRAM THAT INDICATED THESE CARS FROM YEAR 2000-20005 ARE HAVING AN EPIDEMIC OF THE SAME PROBLEM BUT FORD IS REFUSING TO REPLACE THE PARTS IF THEY ARE NOT UNDER WARRANTY. OUR CAR IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE WE BOUGHT THE VERY EXPENSIVE 7 YEAR WARRANTY. A GREAT MAJORITY OF PEOPLE BUYING AT THIS PRICE POINT WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO AFFORD THAT KIND OF WARRANTY OR THE +$500 REPAIR. *JB
DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE TRUNK LID WOULD NOT OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS SEEN BY AN AUTHORIZED DEALERSHIP. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT MADE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO OPEN THE TRUNK LID, LATER HOWEVER THEY WERE SUCCESSFUL AFTER REMOVING THE QUARTER PANELS AND REAR TAILLIGHT ASSEMBLIES. THE DEALER DISCOVERED THERE WERE NO EMERGENCY RELEASE LATCHES INSIDE THE TRUNK. THE DEALER INSTALLED TRUNK RELEASE LATCHES AND THE TRUNK BEGAN TO FUNCTION PROPERLY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALERTED, BUT COULD NOT DETERMINE IF THE VEHICLE WAS MANUFACTURED WITH OR WITHOUT THOSE TRUNK LID LATCHES. UPDATED 03/09/06. *JB
FORD FOCUS SE IGNITION KEY SWITCH LOCK-UP. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM -- KEY WON'T TURN, STEERING WHEEL IS LOCKED, AND THE GEAR SHIFT WON'T MOVE. THE FIRST TIME, I WAS ABLE TO MANIPULATE THE KEY AND FINALLY START THE CAR. THIS TIME, IT IS SUNDAY AND I AM STRANDED. A LOCKSMITH TOLD ME THAT FORD IS THE ONLY ONE WHO HAS PARTS AND IT WILL BE A VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR. SO TOMORROW, I WILL HAVE TO RENT A CAR TO KEEP A DOCTOR'S APPOINTMENT AND HAVE THE FOCUS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE IGNITION REPLACED. I UNDERSTAND THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH FORD (I JUST CHECKED THE INTERNET) AND THEY REFUSE TO RECALL THESE CARS TO FIX THIS VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM. THANKFULLY, I WAS IN A WELL-LIGHTED, SAFE AREA OF THE CITY. I SHUDDER TO THINK OF WHAT MAY HAVE HAPPENED IF I HAD BEEN STRANDED IN A HIGH-RISK AREA. THE FOUNDER OF FORD MOTOR COMPANY BUILT THE COMPANY ON REPUTATION AND HIGH STANDARDS WITH CUSTOMER SATISFACTION ALWAYS IN MIND. WHAT HAS HAPPENED TO THIS GREEDY ORGANIZATION NOW RUN BY MR. BILL FORD WHO CARES NOTHING ABOUT THE SAFETY AND QUALITY OF ITS CARS AS HIS ANCESTORS DID? RECALL THIS CAR NOW -- ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!. *JB
MY IDLE SPEED CONTROL VALVE I WAS TOLD WAS NOT WORKING PROPERLY AND THE RPM'S WOULD SHOOT UP WHENEVER I WOULD HAVE THE CAR IN NEUTRAL. HOWEVER THIS POSED AS A HIGH DANGER RISK BECAUSE IT WOULD JERK FORWARD BECAUSE OF THE CAR IDLING AND SUCH A HIGH POINT. THIS ALMOST CAUSED ME SEVERAL ACCIDENTS AND IS SEEMING TO BE HURTING THE ENGINE. HOWEVER THE DANGER OF KEEPING MY CAR LIKE THIS IS WHY I AM WRITING. I THINK THIS POSED AS A DRIVING RISK B/C OF HOW UNSAFE IT MADE THE CAR AFTER THIS STARTED TO ACT UP. *JB
DT*: THE VEHICLE'S CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER TO BE INSPECTED. THE DEALER DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE VEHICLE REGARDING THE FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY (NHTSA RECALL, #06V025000). THE PARTS NEEDED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE WERE NOT AVAILABLE AT THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. THE MANUFACTURER CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. THE FUEL PUMP HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE. THE IGNITION SWITCH HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES. UPDATED 3/9/2006 - *NM
1. I DROVE TO A RESTAURANT AND TURNED OFF MY CAR, WHICH IS A FORD FOCUS YEAR 2000. LATER WHEN I CAME BACK TO START MY CAR I COULD NOT GET THE KEY ALL THE WAY INTO THE IGNITION. 2. I TRIED SO MANY THINGS TO GET MY KEY INTO THE IGNITION, BUT I HAD TO LEAVE IT THERE OVERNIGHT IN THE PARKING LOT AND THEN HAD IT TOWED THE NEXT DAY. 3. AT THE MOMENT I AM LOOKING INTO EITHER A LOCKSMITH OR SEEING IF SUCH A REPLACEMENT WILL BE UNDER WARRANTY. I HAVE READ THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND IT HAS TO DO WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH. *NM
THIS IS THE THIRD TIME THAT I WILL HAVE TO GET MY IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED ON MY 2000 FORD FOCUS BECAUSE IT WILL NOT TURN. THE FIRST TIME THE SWITCH WAS DRILLED OUT ON WARRANTY. THE SECOND TIME THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN AND THE REPLACED IT UNDER THE REPAIR WARRANTY. IT HAPPENED AGAIN A LITTLE OVER A YEAR LATER. THIS TIME I WAS TOLD BY THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER TO HIT IT WITH SOMETHING. I HAVE USED THIS METHOD TO TURN THE KEY EVERY DAY FOR THE LAST 2 YEARS. THIS WORKED UNTIL NOW. *NM
IGNITION WILL NOT TURN. THE VEHICLE MUST BE TOWED AND A NEW IGNITION CYLINDER INSTALLED BEFORE THE VEHICLE CAN MOVE. AN INTERNET SEARCH REVEALS THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE FORD FOCUS. IT IS OBVIOUSLY VERY DANGEROUS, ESPECIALLY IN WINTER--PEOPLE COULD BE STRANDED IN A DANGEROUS LOCATION OR EXPOSED TO EXTREMES FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME. *JB
THE DAY THE PROBLEM BEGAN MY CAR WAS IDLING VERY ODDLY. THE RPM'S WOULD RACE UP, LIKE I WAS ACCELERATING THEN THE NEXT SECOND IT SEEMED LIKE THE CAR WAS GOING TO DIE. THE CAR HAD OVER A 1/4 OF A TANK OF GAS IN IT. THEN THE CAR JUST QUIT WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. TO FIND OUT IT WAS COMPLETELY OUT OF GAS EVEN THOUGH THE GAS GAGE READ 1/4. *NM
PUT KEY INTO IGNITION BUT KEY WILL NOT MOVE AT ALL AND VEHICLE WILL NOT START. *NM
ALWAYS NOTED A RATTLING, WHICH I WAS TOLD WAS A STRUT NOISE, BUT NOTHING WAS WRONG. TWO WEEKS AGO THE RIGHT SIDE STRUT SPRING BROKE AND NEARLY DESTROYED A TIRE. HAD TO BE TOWED, AND THEN HAD SPRING REPLACED. 10 DAYS LATER THE LEFT SIDE SPRING BROKE AS I ENTERED DRIVEWAY. MANY RELIABLE SOURCES HAVE INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS NO WAY A 2000 VEHICLE WITH 67,000 MILES SHOULD HAVE THESE PROBLEMS. THE WARRANTY EXPIRED. . BOTTOM LINE WAS THAT FORD USED EITHER INFERIOR OR DEFECTIVE SPRINGS ON A IMPORTANT PART OF THE CAR.*AK
MY FIANCE, PARENTS AND I WERE DRIVING HOME FROM DINNER AND GOT CAUGHT IN A SNOW STORM. KNOWING HOW BAD THE ROADS NEAR ME CAN GET I SLOWED DOWN TO 15 MPH WHEN I SAW THE ROADS WERE GETTING COVERED. WE CAME AROUND A CORNER AND CAUGHT A PATCH OF ICE AND THE CAR SLID INTO A CURB. UPON IMPACT OF THE CURB, BOTH AIRBAGS DEPLOYED AND THE WINDSHIELD WAS SMASHED (FROM THE AIRBAG. WHEN WE EXITED THE VEHICLE WE EXPECTED TO SEE MAJOR DAMAGE TO THE CAR. WE WENT TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR TO FIND THAT THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE WAS PUSHED BACK 3-6 INCHES AND THE FRONT RIGHT FENDER WAS SLIGHTLY BENT. ALL DAMAGE WAS FROM THE TIRE. I NEVER EXPECTED THAT MUCH DAMAGE FROM A 15 MPH COLLISION WITH A CURB. THERE WAS NO DAMAGE TO THE FRONT BUMPER WHERE THE AIRBAG CRASH SENSORS ARE LOCATED. COST TO FIX TIRE AND FENDER = $1,200. COST TO FIX AIRBAGS/WINDSHIELD/DASH DAMAGE FROM AIRBAGS = $4,000. WITH LITTLE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED AND THE VEHICLE WAS TOTALED.*AK
DT: THE CONSUMER STATED THERE WERE MULTIPLE PROBLEMS WITH THE VEHICLE. THE BRAKES MAKE NOISES AND PULSATED WHEN THE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE SERVICE DEALER WHERE THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH AND IGNITION CYLINDER SWITCHES WERE REPLACED. THE DEALER ALSO TURNED THE DRUMS, REPLACED THE BRAKE PADS AND RESURFACED THE FRONT ROTORS. THERE WAS A VIBRATION IN THE FRONT END WHEN BRAKING. THE LOWER BALL JOINT, RIGHT WHEEL BEARINGS, RIGHT FRONT SWAY BAR LINK, BONE SOCKET, STEERING RACK COLUMN AND TIE ROD ENDS WERE REPLACED IN AN ATTEMPT TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM. THE TAIL LIGHT COVERS RETAINED MOISTURE AND CONDENSATION BUILT UP. THE DEALER REPLACED THE TAIL LIGHT COVERS AND FUSES THAT WERE BLOWN DUE TO THE MOISTURE. LASTLY, THE CONTACT NOTICED THE REAR SEAT WAS LOOSE AND UPON INSPECTION THE DEALER DISCOVERED AN ANCHOR AND HINGE PROBLEM. THE BACK HINGE AND PILLAR WERE REPLACED. *JB
DT*: THE CONSUMER STATED WHILE TRAVELING 40 MPH THE OCCUPANTS STARTED SMELLING ELECTRICAL SMOKE. THE OCCUPANTS REALIZED THE VEHICLE WAS ON FIRE IN THE DASHBOARD; SMOKE WAS BILLOWING OUT OF DASHBOARD. THE CONSUMER PULLED THE VEHICLE OFF THE ROAD AND THE OCCUPANTS EXITED. THE VEHICLE WAS EXTINGUISHED, AND THEN TOWED TO THE CONSUMER HOME. THERE HAS BEEN NO INSPECTION OF THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER HAS BEEN ALERTED. *JB
THE IGNITION LOCK SET FOR MY 2000 FORD FOCUS ZTS HAD TO BE REPLACED. IT COST $315. *NM
IGNITION CYLINDER FROZE ON 2000 FORD FOCUS SE REQUIRING CAR TO BE TOWED TO DEALER TO HAVE LOCK CYLINDER REPLACED AS THE KEY COULD NOT BE INSERTED INTO THE LOCK. THIS WAS COVERED BY WARRANTY AT THE TIME. IN DECEMBER 2005, IGNITION WOULD PERIODICALLY FREEZE WITH KEY INSERTED REQUIRING SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO TURN THE KEY TO START THE CAR. CAR WAS TAKEN TO DEALER ON JANUARY 17, 2006 AND CYLINDER HAS TO BE REPLACED AGAIN AT A COST OF $453 SINCE THE CAR IS NOW OUT OF WARRANTY. I'VE NOTED NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ON THE INTERNET ABOUT OTHER FORD FOCUS OWNERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. I CALLED FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE AND THEY WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING OTHER THAN NOTE THE COMPLAINT. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE IF THE LOCK FAILS WHEN THE CAR IS NEEDED IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION. SINCE THIS IS A RECURRING PROBLEM, WHY HAS FORD NOT BEEN REQUIRED TO FIX THE PROBLEM? *NM
IGNITION LOCK FAILURE. THE FIRST ISSUE IS THAT I TRIED TO TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION AND THE ENTIRE IGNITION CYLINDER CAME OUT ON THE KEY. THIS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES RANDOMLY. THE SECOND ISSUE IS THE FAILURE FOR THE KEY TO TURN IN THE IGNITION. IT WAS INITIALLY AN INCONSISTENT PROBLEM THAT STEADILY GOT WORSE AND WORSE UNTIL FINALLY IT JUST BECAME A MATTER OF CHANCE AND A BATTLE OF PATIENCE TO GET IT STARTED. THIS STARTED HAPPENING AT 40K MILES WHICH IS RIDICULOUS. THE WORST CASE TOOK 30 MINUTES OF TWISTING, JINGLING, TURNING THE WHEEL, PUSHING THE KEY IN AND OUT AND FIDDLING WITH IT UNTIL IT FINALLY TURNED. I HAVE SINCE HAD THE CYLINDER REPLACED AND A NEW KEY MADE FOR ABOUT $250 OUT OF MY POCKET. AFTER A LITTLE RESEARCH I REALIZED THAT I AM ONE OF THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM, BUT FORD APPARENTLY FEELS THE PROBLEM DOESN'T EXIST. FORD SHOULD MAKE EACH ONE OF THEIR ENGINEERS DRIVE A FOCUS AND COUNT THE NUMBER OF DAYS THEY COME IN LATE OR MISS WORK. *JB
DT: THE CONTACT STATED THE DECK LID WIRING HARNESS WIRES OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FATIGUED AND BROKE. THERE WAS NHTSA RECALL CAMPAIGN 00V411000, REGARDING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WIRING. THE VEHICLE HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS AS INDICATED IN THE RECALL; HOWEVER, IT WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL DUE TO THE VIN. THE VEHICLE WAS SEEN BY A DEALER, AND THE DECK LID WIRING HARNESS WAS REPLACED. *AK FORD WAS UNWILLING TO PAY FOR REPAIRS. THE CONTACT AGREED THAT IT WAS THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM AS THE OTHER 2000 FORD, FOCUS, BUT THEY WOULD NOT COMPLY AS IT WAS MADE SHORTLY AFTER THEY ENDED THE RECALL DATE FOR THIS PARTICULAR PROBLEM. *AK
Reading these
NHTSA publishes every complaint as the owner wrote it and investigates only a fraction. Spelling, capitalisation and judgement are the filer’s own. What carries weight is repetition: the same component failing the same way across many filings, and whether the manufacturer eventually opened a recall for it.
Full record for the 2000 Ford Focus → · Every Focus year → · How the figures are calculated →